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Chrysler 300M Starting/Stalling problems



  • Hi,
    I had a 3 start tries and now this car will not crank . everything is in good order but I cannot figure out why It will not turn over.
    The red light on dash is flashing much more than before.
    The code i have says It could be a key issue. YES I tried an old key as well as the normally used key.
    Now I need to know how to reset the system. So when I turn the key something happens.

    Can someone help with how the security system works, and what the dealership does to reset the code/ system. Re program it so it starts.
  • I was just reading on the No start situation for my car - your symptom is detail specific to the cure I read than my own problem.

    3 Failed start attempts can put system in "lockout mode"
    - the solution as I read it is -
    Turn ignition key to the "on" position and leave it there for 1 full hour!
    -MAKE SURE ALL interior electronics are turned off, such as blower, radio etc etc.
    If necessary - have a charger connected to battery to keep battery from discharging.
  • WOW,, nice info i truely hope it works. Thank you so much for the info. Curious to know where to find that type info.

    Thanks again.
  • I left the key on for over an hour. This did NOT remedy the no start problem.
    Will not crank . Dash red saftey light flashes continously.
    Who knows how to RESET the security system on a 2000 300 M.

    Tried tap the brake pedal after unhooking battery. Also unlock and lock doors with key, nothing seems to reset or disable the security system.

    Thank you.

  • My 300 was doing the same thing, and my mechanic was baffled, we had a ton of things replace and one day I found a guy with the same problem that hooked up a diagnosis machine while driving and found that the EGR valve needed replacing....we replaced that and it hasn't died since and that was over a year I am having problems with it jerking when it reaches over 40mph...
  • My 4th gear on my transmission went at 98k miles, you may be having transmission slippage in 2nd or 3rd gear. (complete rebuild for $1800)
    Put the car into manual shift mode and try 2nd 3rd and 4th gear by hand
    you may find that on eof them is slipping causing the jerking motion.
  • Hi,
    Not sure where you combined your stalling issue with our "WILL NOT CRANK" or start.

    I fixed the problem and the engine runs great.
    TRANSPONDER will control the security system and after three starts will lock it out and not allow starting elcetrical circuit to function.

    thanks anyway.
  • I have a 2006 Chrysler 300C but had the same problem. It was the KEY.

    We had already taken both of our keys to the dealership for not working....... several times. The one that is used most days and the one that is hardly ever used. They both are crap.

    We took our key apart, roughed up the connections, replaced the battery and no more problems with the car not starting and or starting and then stalling.
  • Hi,

    Thank you for responding in direct relevance to the problem we had. It was the TRANSPONDER to KEY relationship.

    Hope the 100"S who have had the same issue dont contine to spend thousands on unrelated parts.

    Thanks again.
  • blank2blank2 Posts: 1
    was going down the freeway and the car died and had it towed home would not start just turning over and it is not getting no spark ??????????????/
  • My 2006 300M wont start. I replaced the pcm and that did nothing. Now i replaced the computer and it started 4 or 5 times each for about 3 seconds and now it wont start. I am going to try the one hour leave the key on and see what happens. The computer came out of a junk yard car 2006 300M. Will i need to get something reprogrammed since i changed it out?
  • My 2002 300m (~130k miles) has had the check engine light on for years. It was my mother's car until recently, and I know she had it checked out and her mechanics were unable to identify the cause for the light being on. It drove fine, so she didn't worry about it. Last year she did have to replace the transmission and had some other work done. It also started to idle really fast? Loud? I'm not sure about the correct terminology, but it would sort of sound like it would rev up when it sat idling for very long, then would drop back, and go back and forth.

    Since I got it a few months ago, we've had nothing but problems. It won't pass the smog check, because of the CEL I believe, so we took it in. Our local mechanic thought it was the sensors, as did my mom's mechanic, so we had those replaced - CEL is still on. Then they thought it was the computer, so we had that replaced at the dealership - CEL is still on. To make matters worse, the car has started to stall at red light, and revs without accelerating then accelerates really when you push the gas. The CEL is still on and is now flashing. When the local mechanic said we needed to replace the computer, he checked everything else and said it was fine.

    We're planning to take it back to the dealer on Monday but we've had really bad experiences with this place so I'm trying to get as much info in advance as possible. If anyone has any ideas, I'd love to hear them. Oh, and I'm afraid I don't know what the engine/diagnostic codes are. Thanks!
  • Sounds like it might be your mass flow regulator. My Ranger did the same thing and it had no light on. I replaced it and it works fine now. Mine was located between the airbox and motor intake.
  • Sounds like it might be your mass flow regulator. My Ranger did the same thing and it had no light on. I replaced it and it works fine now. Mine was located between the airbox and motor intake.
  • Been having problems with the idle of my car being high. Just replace the the coil on the third cylinder stop some of the idling problems. Still runs alittle sluggish when accelerating and idles high when in park or when put in reverse? Any answers would be appreciated
  • From my experience with many different makes, the cause is usually worn or sticking piston rings. This can be reduced with a good engine oil additive containing distilates from diesel fuel. It helps quiet and smooth out the engine. Only problem, it has to be added every 2000-3000 miles. Permanent fix unfortunately is a rebuild or replace engine. Good luck.
  • I own a 2003 300M - I'm having a hard start problem - no matter if it is hot or cold out, I have to crank the engine a long time to get it to start. If I shut it off and come back relatively quickly, it then starts, but if its off for an hour or more, it has a hard time. I tried priming it (key on 2-3 secs/off/on/for a few times, but that doesn't help). Any suggestions?
  • I had a similar issue with my 1999 300M. It turned out to be low fuel pressure. They can test for this probably at no charge. Mine was down to around 5 psi versus the 50+ psi specification. The solution was a new electric fuel pump. The issue with this is that it (the fuel pump) is in the top of the gas tank so they have to drop the tank to remove and replace the pump. At the dealer this is around $600 with an OEM pump.
  • I have 2000 Chrysler 300M with 126,000 miles. Last week I took my grand child to school, came out and the car wouldn't start. I jumped it, took it to the shop and had the battery replaced. Everything seemed fine until yesterday, when I try to turn it over, it clicks one time and nothing. I took it to auto zone, they tested the battery, starter, and alternator and all were fine. Chrysler diagnostics $83 minimum charge :0( I have read the previous posts and there are so many categories this problem can fall under, I just want to START with something I (a non-mechanic) can do myself, before I shell out hundreds or perhaps thousands of dollars. Should I begin with a fuel pump relay, starter ignition relay? Winter is upon me, and I don't want to be stuck in the cold, especially with my grand child Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Thank you.
  • i have a 2003 chrysler 300m .. bought it a week ago with 108,000 miles... runs really good but now all of a sudden after i crack it 4 or 5 times it doesnt wanna turns over and tries to crank and eventually after trying alot of times it will start and run but when you gas it its like it has trash or something in it.. kinda stalls out but if i drive it regurly its fine.. then the next time i start it it has no problem at all...any suggestions where to start??
  • I would buy or borrow a cheap ODB-II reader and try driving with it hooked up
    Even though your check engine light isn't ON the reader may show you Intermittent Error Codes while the engine is running .. that's how I found my EGR valve problem.
  • will the egr valve will make it run like that and have trouble starting??
  • lplp1lplp1 Posts: 1
    How does one remedy the key to transponder relationship?


  • slitzslitz Posts: 2
    bought a 03 300M almost a month ago. the issues we have ran into are: hard starting at times and rough idle, which seafoam has calmed for the time being. if i tap the gas it'll die. if i stop too soon it'll die. the cruise and powerseats only work when car starts fine. left front tire rod needs changed, any idea on maintance cost for tirerod? i have all the maintance papers for it, dateing back to 05. was well maintained. other than those issues, love the car. great ride, good power, inside is roomy and clean!
  • dgrams1dgrams1 Posts: 7
    You might try having the cleaning thing done to the intake system.. my '99 responded nicely to that.. it's around $125 for a good one at the Chrysler dealer or other place of your choice.. The seafoam probably just began to clean up some of the knarley stuff in that air intake passage so it's a thing to do. Don't know about the tie-rod.. They cost what they cost.. $80+ an hour labor.. You gotta do what ya gotta do.. Good luck!
  • The MAP SENSOR , on the 300m 3.5L engine , is on the driver's side of the plenum , in the middle , where it should bolt on , using 2-bolts , that have coarse threads for plastic.
  • Minor ticking sounds , that are generally occurring only at or immediately after startup , are related to the lifters that open and close the head valves , which run off of the cam. On the 3.5L engine , there is only 1 cam , as opposed to the 2.7L engine , which has dual overhead cams : which are more likely to have these problems. If the engine persists to tick , especially after having been highway driven , the problem is usually not fixable , except for when rebuilt , but not always.

    The problem is : that oil from the oilpan , is not being sucked up by the oil pump pickup tube and transfered quickly to the uppermost parts of the motor , where the valves , lifters and valvesprings reside. The solution is to take your car to a mechanic and ask them to remove your engine oilpan , to check the oilpump pickup tube and oilpan for sludge buildup. Sludge can block the oilpump pickup tube screen which resides nearest the bottom of the oilpan. Once the sludge is removed , and the oilpan gasket is replaced , any slight knock or ticking sound will deminish , or be completely gone. On the 300m , one of the attractive mechanical features is that you can replace an oilpan gasket , inspect the oilpump pickup tube etc ; without removing the entire engine , as with most GM or Ford applications.

    In some cases , oilpans have what are called "driptrays" spotwelded to the inner sides of the oilpan itself , to make it so that oil that is returning to the oilpan doesn't drip directly down into the oil in the pan itself , causing bubbling , which may interfere with a steady flow of oil getting to the upper portions of the engine when it is critical. These driptrays can crack or even break away from the oilpan walls , and become lodged in a position at the bottom of the oilpan where they will restrict the flow of oil getting directly into the oilpump pickup tube. This is why the ticking or slight knocking is more prevalent at startup , whereas later on when the engine has been running for a while , or at higher speeds , oil has finally properly reached the upper areas of the motor where it is needed and necessary at all times while running.

    I have in the past , found pieces of driptrays in oilpans , where the engine was knocking during initial startup , after the repair , it doesn't exist any more. This repair , when the sludge is removed from the oilpan , will also make it so that any future oilchanges will better benefit the motor's condition , seeing as the sludge is no longer present in the oilflow as a result. A very easy fix , on the 300m and Toyota engines , due to the unibody framework that allows easy access to the oilpump pickup tube and oilpan removal itself.
  • A secondary consideration , when it comes to any engine , in terms of ticking sounds , hard starting , coughing , rough idle , irratic acceleration etc. conditions , is that all engines require the proper (factory calibrated) sparkplugs to be installed and used for many reasons , as opposed to other aftermarket or incorrect sparkplugs.

    Incorrect sparkplugs are of a higher concern on engines where there is no fulltime fan cooling the engine. As with the 300m and others , electric fans only come on when the engine temperature is "abnormal" , which can if the electric fans come on frequently , cause the fans to wear out abnormally , or cause relays to overheat as well. Any time a relay overheats or fails (burned) , the rest of the electrical system is at risk.

    Because the 300m is only cooled by the twin fans attached to the radiator , the engine may operate in an abnormal condition , if the fans don't turn on when needed properly. If the engine is overheating (proper sparkplugs keep the engine running normally) , the piston rings , valves , valvesprings , valveguides , lifters , cam , oilpump , waterpump , air conditioning compressor , alternator , wiring , plenum , egr valve , exhaust , power steering pump , transmission etc. are all wearing abnormally , and in the case of the engine , create extra sludge in the oilpan , which is actually crushed , mushed up metal. The proper sparkplugs for the 3.5L engine in the 300m are : NGK ZFR5LP-13G , which are Laser Platinum Premium sparkplugs. No others should be used as they will cause all sorts of problems within a week or so. Aftermarket sparkplugs should only be used on engines that have a fulltime fan that runs off of the belts , but there are exceptions. Any good parts store will warn you or suggest the proper sparkplugs for the 3.5L on the 300m , as their customers have found out that other sparkplugs don't work properly , as the NGK's do.

    In the 300m , any time your engine is idling in traffic , it is not getting much air from the front air grills , and if your electric fans/relays are malfunctioning , you are actually running your engine without any air cooling at all. It is also important to have the proper mixture of coolant and water in your radiator , as the proper sparkplugs alone will allow the engine to run much cooler , and you will see that on your temperature gauge in the dash after replacement. Not to mention your gas mileage , a hot running engine will burn more fuel.

    Regardless of what any garage mechanic may try to tell you , you should insist on installing the proper sparkplugs in your 300m 3.5L engine. It will save you alot of trouble if you do. These are the factory installed sparkplugs that the manufacturer has calibrated to the engine , where it is claimed that your first service or tune up will be in the 100,000 mile range , by design.
  • pitmanoeuvrepitmanoeuvre Posts: 68
    edited May 2011
    There is yet another factor , in making sure your engine has the proper sparkplugs installed. Any time you install the incorrect sparkplugs , your engine cylinders are not completely igniting all of the gas that your injectors spray into the cylinders , making it so that your exhaust manifolds , catalytic converters , resonators , pipes and mufflers : are all collecting both gas and condensed water pockets , which cause your exhaust system to rot (holes form in certain areas).

    All the while , if your engine begins to malfunction , and you get your systems checked , the meters can read incorrectly due to all of these factors. In other words , an O2 sensor reading can be incorrect , if the sparkplugs don't burn all of the fuel being injected into the cylinders , while the O2 sensor itself is OK. That is why replacing these parts only works temporarily. The first thing any customer should notice about new cars , is that their exhaust systems appear as dry , and remain hot or heated. In used vehicles , this is a telltale sign , as a wet exhaust or one that appears to be discoloured or rusting abnormally , is a sign that the vehicle has not been properly maintained by a good reputable mechanic. To the contrary , a very dry or superfically rusting exhaust system , is a sign that only the elements have played a role in the deterioration of the exhaust system.

    In other words , much can be told simply by looking at what is coming out of the exhaust pipes ends on a used or new car. Dripping water , is a sign that the car has either been sitting and not run , or that the entire exhaust system has been exposed to unburned fuel/water buildup for ?? amount of time. These telltale signs can also be a factor in determining whether or not the vehicle will pass emission tests of any sort , or be in a condition where system analysis metering may cause you to both buy or install accessory components , that the vehicle doesn't necessarily need in the future to diagnose problems. Any good vehicle , will have a good exhaust system , one that hasn't been exposed to fuel contaminations/deterioration.
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