Jetta Transmission Problems and Questions

bpeebles

If the engine starts ... then immedeatly shuts down - that is EXACTLY how the immobilizer is supposed to operate if the wrong key is used in the ignition switch.

It sounds to me as if somone tried starting SOOO many times, that now the battery is dead too.

What you need to to
1) Fully charge battery (or replace with fully-charged one)
2) Try all 3 keys (2 standard keys and the Valet-Key)

If ALL the keys do the same thing with the immobilizer kicking in, then the prolbem is most-likey the sensor around the ignition-switch which 'reads' the keys.

If ANY of the keys start the engine normally, then the other keys need to be re-programmed. It is pretty easy to reprogram a key as long as you have ONE good one. Re-programming entails putting the GOOD key in the ignition and the BAD one in the drivers-door keyswitch. (there are detailed instructions on the web)

mrjetta1995

ok i was thinking the tranny cause the clutch peddle still has alot of stiffness. now as for the axles , 8mm square ? not hex as the book states ? will have to go grab one of those today .. one other question , is there a diff year tranny i can put in here , a newer year that will bolt right up and wont have this issue with or atleast somewhat feel safer it wont happen again ? and as with my other car when i changed my accord trans for a prelude had to change axles is that nessary as well or any other things ? srry still lil new to my vw . thanks for the tool answer though maybe can get back to busting knuckles open...

yachteng

Similar deal here 04 Jetta. I have a loud helicopter style vibration that is speed sensitive. Replaced wheel bearing and axle but still have the vibration. After getting under the differential and feeling for play at the drive flange I have excessive play on driver side flange. It feels like a flat spot on the roller bearing (it clicks only a little as you turn it). I am trying to diagnose the repair but does anyone know if you can replace the bearing in the case without removing the transmission? I don't have a Bentley manual and this is as far as Haynes goes.

I will keep you posted if I get some answers.

01tdi

If you have a manual and it says that they are hex then I would go with that, I'm probably getting confused with a different car. Either way advanced auto or any other auto place should have a set of those tools. as for the transmission I am not sure if 1999.5 and newer transmissions will fit in your car, however you could go up to 1999 model cars and switch out the transmissions but they will be the same as the one in your car. The axles should be interchangeable but chances are you are going to get a newer transmission and have to do all the work, so you might as well replace the axles too right? Just my thoughts, good luck.

jetta7

I have a 2003 Jetta TDI Diesel, auto trans. It shudders when climbing hills at 1800 2000 rpm, in overdrive. It also shudders sometimes on flat roads, at same rpm. Has anyone experienced this problem?

bpeebles

On your 2003 TDI, 1800 RPM is the torque-peak of the engine. This is where the engine provides the most pulling-power and is most efficent.

I am not sure that I understand what you mean by "shudder". That is not a technical-term which I am accustomed to. Perhaps you can describe better?

My initial thought is that your automatic xmission is the problem... especially since you suggest that this "shudder" only happens in a specific gear (overdrive). I wonder if you have had that xmission "serviced based on the factory-recommended requirements?

...yet more proof that an automatic xmission is less desirable than a manual. - Less MPG *and* costs more to maintain!

Mr_Shiftright

Yeah I was thinking the same thing---the lock up on the torque converter.

jetta7

Are you saying that the shudder has something to do with the torque converter lockup?

Mr_Shiftright

Yes....it's a possibility. First of all, you should check for an engine misfire to cause this problem, as could bad engine mounts, etc. If it's in the transmission, sometimes a fluid change will correct the shudder.

Here's MORE ON THE SUBJECT

As you can see after reading this material, tracking down the cause can be tricky.

mramosvw10

hi..i got a vw jetta 2002 1.8 t . i don't know if is my car's transmission or not...the problem is when i start my car any time..i need to let 'em start for a while...like 1 hour on...because if i drive my car right away when i turn on , it won't go on and doesn't make the right changes , some times get stock and makes a wird noises, i spoke to some technical people and they told me if the check engine light is not on ( orange color ) i don't have to worry about it. do you think that i need to make a transmission oil change..? :

slomoshn

I have been dealing with a situation very similar to this since Dec. I have a 2000 1.8T. You cannot change the transmission fluid so easily, as it is a sealed case. Is the "check engine" light on? Mine comes on and goes out. Sometimes it shifts perfectly, sometimes it gets stuck. The last time, the mechanic said the "coding"was not set properly. He set it and it drove fine for about two days, then it got stuck in 2nd on the freeway (thank God for rush hour traffic)- no one noticed. After about a mile, it corrected itself. I was told that if the "coding" wasn't the problem then I probably needed to replace the transmission. :sick:

01tdi

Changing the transmission fluid and filter can help but chances are the transmission is already starting to fail. 1999.5 to 2005 automatic transmissions are notorious for failing. Mostly because of volkswagen saying that they have "lifetime" fluid in them and that it does not need to be changed. Biggest load of bs I have ever heard. These things are not cheap either, volkswagen does not sell rebuilt transmissions, only new ones with a few numbers stamped on the serial code to tell you that it has been replaced. My car has the same problem because the previous owner put the wrong fluid in it. It would not move unles i let it idle for about a half hour. If i tried to move it it would stall itself out and whne in reverse it would shake like a wet dog. once the fluid and filter was properly changed I have not had any of these problems except the occasional miss shift going from a complete stop to speed while on a steep incline. The check engine light goes on and off but for the most part it shifts fine. I baby it too, just want it to last a year or two longer then I am goig to get a new car.

You can have the transmission serviced but not everyone will do it and the dealer charges around 500 bucks for this around here. However a new transmission is 5000 so its not so bad if it works. I would say if your check engine light is off it would be a good thing to try.

jeffyscott

I think the price varies, but it is expensive mainly due to the expensive synthetic transmission fluid, I think. I guess the alternative would be what the previous owner did yours, put the wrong (cheap) fluid in and ruin the transmission that way.

mramosvw10

thaks for replay my e-mail...ok like u said..sometimes the check engine light turns on and stay like 1 or 2 days , after this time dissapears, i been taken my car to vw dealer and for some reason nobody detects any kind of issues on my car.talking with another tecnichal said that might have a special chip inside of transmission ( i dont know if is true ) otherwise i need to buy a new one. And i am really desesperate cause whenever i go , anytime, any place..i need to let'em warm it on for an hour to drive and get home, and every day is the same thing.

regards

Mr Ramos :confuse:

ochandler

I have a 1996 vw jetta trek 5speed 4cyl one day clutch dropped to floor so I pulled the trany to see if the clutch broke it was fine. so I pulled the back cap of trany off and clutch release arm was broke so I replaced it and sealed trany back up the problem was the same clutch pedal stays to floor checked cable no problems
What could the problem be? its frustrating cause I just put it back together with same problem as result could it be a pressure thing where there isn't enough fluid in trany or some thing? help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

01tdi

Yeah I know the price varies I was just giving you guys a ball park of what it will cost. It is a pain because it has to be special transmission fluid with a very very low viscosity compared to conventional trans fluids. But like I was saying the wrong fluid makes the car act like it has a failing transmission, stalling and shuddering when it is not warmed up enough. This sounds to be the problem that is being discussed but it could be a trashed sensor like this forum discusses http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=248847&highlight=01m+trans+fluid
The TDI club is a very knowledgeable and helpful forum for any VW owner. Good luck

jeffyscott

Understood and I mentioned the price varying as my dealer's website indicates VW trans fluid change is "only" about $250 or $265 for DSG. It does say "Prices start at the amount displayed, your vehicle may differ", but it is specific to VW.

01tdi

well that price is the entire trans service. which just includes new fluid and a new trans filter.Which if your are going to get the fluid changed, you might as well get the filter changed to. I would always get the filter changed with the fluid if you don't they might just hook the vacume machine up to the and that can knock loose particles in the transmission causing problems later

scoop9

I have a 2005 Jetta GLS. Since I bought it 18 months ago the automatic transmission clunks when it goes from 2nd to 3rd. I've brought it to the dealership and one service guy told me it's the computer communication, not the tranny but I'm concerned that it can't be good for the tranny to keep clunking like that.
Have you heard of this before and do you have any ideas on how I can approach the dealership for action to be taken. So far they haven't been too helpful.
I have a few months left on the powertrain warranty.

bpeebles

OWCHIE! nearly $300 for a "xmission service". How often does this have to happen? No thanks....I will stick with manual xmissions.

VW manal xmissions are known the world-over for being some of the very finest examples of German Engineering. I have cumulative nearly a million miles on VW manual xmissions and never EVER had an issue. Even though VW says the xmission oil can last the life of the vehicle.... I usually change mine at 150,000 miles just for my own sanity. (mebbie $20 worth of oil every 150,000 miles is not too bad.)

jeffyscott

Theoretically it happens never, there is no trans fluid change in the maintenance schedule. Dealer says unless there is a problem, there is no need to change.

I've not decided what I'll do, but assuming we do not have any problems, I don't plan to do anything prior to at least 75,000 miles, which would be about 10 years for us. So I am not real worried about the cost for something we might do, at most, once in the life of the vehicle.

heyyouthere

did u ever fix ur jetta i also have same problem. i have an 05 GLI, thank you....

billpaul

VW MT's may be among the best in the world, but they are getting harder to obtain, e.g. not available on Passat Station Wagon.

jetta7

What I mean by shudder is, when climbing hills, still in overdrive, and at 1800 to 2000 rpm, the dashboard will shudder, and I can tell that its coming from the front end.

Mr_Shiftright

Well if you feel it in the steering wheel, you'd have to check motor/transmission mounts, axle CV joints, and of course wheel balance, wheel hubs, etc.

jetta7

OK, I'll do some further inspection. Thanks for the info..

adrian09

was the problem the TCM?
cause i have the same problem.

wkprj

I have a 2005 1/2 New Jetta, I got it the day before they were shown on the TV.

I have had some of the issues that others have had.

1. Peeling in on the interior handles. And the silver thing by the gear shifter
2. Cracked radio knobs
3. Broken vent knobs
4. Brakes --- Oh boy hope this part helps some people.
a. A rock got in the back rotor, the dealer replaced this because there was no way this should have happened. The brakes were replaced
b. The brakes needed to be replaced in the rear after about
12k , miles I believe. When I took it in I almost fell for the its time to replace them line BUT.. A friend is a care nut and sd there is no way this could be and they needed to fix them. After much discussion they replaced them only to have them go out again after a short period of time.
Sooo back to the dealer and again with the standard line.. I told them no way. Fix it. This time they changed the kind of brakes they put on.
Here is what they did. The ones that are set for this Jetta is too soft they had to put a harder pad brake on. Since them I've been lucky and have not had to take them back. Sorry don't have what kind they used at this time.. Paperwork is hiding.

When I first took the car off the showroom floor I loved it for 2 weeks and then it was in the shop for 1 month at least with a spider wire in the engine being defective. It was a new model just out so it took a while. They replaced the wire and the work under warranty. No problems with that again. I still love my car btw.

I do have a reoccurring problem that I have not seen as of yet and want to know if anyone has had this happen.

In 8-08 my valve body was replaced because the gear shift selector on the dash was highlighting all the gears and getting stuck on one gear. The gear was shifting but could not see what gear I was in on the dash controls.
The problem was fault 00260 Solenoid Valve 2-
N89 , it was a short that caused this. It was under warranty. Now it is doing it again and at first they were not able to see a fault. I drove in today and they came out hooked up the computer and I have the fault again, same thing. This time its not under warranty and will cost around 450.00 just to check it out and if its the valve about 1200.00 to replace it.

Is anyone having this problem and what did they do about it.

Thanks looking forward to suggestions.

jeffyscott

In 8-08 my valve body was replaced because the gear shift selector on the dash was highlighting all the gears and getting stuck on one gear.

We have a 2005 new Jetta also. We got ours a few months later than you, at the end of May 2005. During the first year the transmission started shifting roughly and early, especially 1-2 and especially when going uphill. They replaced the valve body under warranty. I assume the solenoid you refer to is a part of the valve body? I do not know any details regarding ours.

jetta7

I wonder if this solenoid valve could be causing my transmission shudder, when in overdrive @ 1800 to 2000 rpm, cliimbing a grade.
Thanks

wkprj

I had my car looked at and they were ready to replace the valve body again but after taking a closer look they noticed that the battery was leaking and that there was a few other faults that were popping up related to low voltage. They replaced the battery for now and it seems to be working. They also cleared all the faults so if it starts again they could see what was going on.
I also have noticed that my clock inst or hasn't lost time lately but will see on that one.. who knows.

CHECK your BATTERY to see if its leaking/corroding may be creating some problems for you

hbsteven

Here's my experience so far. I drive a 2008 Jetta Wolfsburg Edition with 2.0Turbo and DSG transmission. Currently at 46k miles.

The following have been repaired or replaced under warranty.

At 40k the engine intake manifold failed. FYI a new intake manifold plus installation is over $400!

Electronic gremlins such as the alarm going off unprovoked eventually traced to an improperly installed engine wiring harness.

Excessive wind noise from driver door caused by bad rubber seal.

Various ill fitting interior panels replaced.

I received a letter from VW extending the warranty for the DSG transmission to 100k. According to VW certain DSG units may be susceptible to early clutch wear. So far I haven't had this problem.

All service & maintenance performed by the dealership.
That said I am very pleased with the car so far but time will tell. :confuse:

kellar2136

Hey i have been looking at buying this car which only has 50k miles and it an automatic. Apparently it was a leased car for vw and I have the carfax which shows no problems and all scheduled maintainence taken care of. The car runs awesome, the only problem is I think that there may be something wrong with the trans (hopefully it just needs more fluid). When I drove it, it seems to be a little slow on shifting. I'm not sure if its "slipping" cuz ive never driven a car with a slipping trans. Its quick, but I noticed it took a real quick maybe 1/4 second to shift, almost like if you were driving a manual except shifting a little quicker. I have talked to people about this and they all say different things. So I'm just curious, does anyone know the possibilities that could be causing this? I called the vw dealership and they want $125 just to check out the trans.

slomoshn

I had the same sensation when I test drove my jetta last December. The car was great, drove wonderfully...except for that little hesitation in the shifting. It was almost unnoticeable--just the slightest hesitation. I could almost feel it in the pedal.

I thought it couldn't be too serious, besides I was already in love with the car. Big mistake. The hesitation became progressively worse--the slipping became more frequent and severe. On some occasions the tranny would not shift past third until I pulled over and let it cool for about 20-30 minutes.

The last diagnosis suggests that the transmission must be replaced.

camspa

We have a 96 Jetta trek...took out a bad CLK trans and replaced with a CHF series...if put in drive it goes directly intio 4th gear stalling...but I you put in 1st it stay in 1st until you manualy shift up through the gears....reverse is fine..anybody have any ideas? Thanx,CJ

bselz81

I have a 2003 1.8T automatic Jetta. I have noticed lately that when I am driving the vehicle automatically decelerates on me, almost like the care is downshifting. Does anybody know what this is?

Mr_Shiftright

Sounds like it is dropping out of overdrive.

btraven

I can't afford to have my red GLX fixed to pass state inspection. It has less than 70K miles and the exterior and interior look great, but my mechanic thinks the automatic transmission is failing. The car lurches a bit into first, then runs pretty well, although lately the "check engine" light has come on.

The sunroof won't open, but the a/c works; the airbag light comes on, but the heated seats & alarm system work. I added a good CD player but some of the 8 Bose speakers need to be replaced at $75 each from the VW dealer.

The Blue Book value is about $4500. I listed it for $3500 and would take $3000. Is that reasonable? What is the least I should ask/accept?

Thanks for any help!

Kirstie_H

The car has a lot of issues, some known, some unknown - for example, the check engine light could be a small problem, or a very expensive one. At the very least, you should find out what's causing the light to be on so that the cost is known.

I don't know what condition you used when rating your vehicle to find the value, but it should be "rough" at best. You might head over to Real World Trade-In Values to get a better idea, but I think you're probably high on the price with all of the issues.

Mr_Shiftright

Kirstie has pointed you to the right track here.

Unless you get those warning lights off, you're going to have a hard time selling this car for any price you can bear to take.

People will forgive a non-working sunroof, etc, but not airbag or engine lights. They'll either run away or offer you dirt money for it.

So you are in a sense wading in the middle of a lake---either way you go you're going to get a bit wet.

At least get the airbag light off (probably a sensor needs fixing) and read the engine trouble codes so you know whether to fix or bail out. A little more investigation will help you make a more informed decision.

jeffyscott

No, $3000 or $3500 is not reasonable for a 13 or 14 year old broken car.

If I were considering your car the first thing I'd want to know is what is wrong with it and what will it cost to fix it (aside from the sunroof and speakers).

Edmunds and Kbb have widely divergent ideas on the value. Edmunds has average private party at about $2000 and KBB has private party at $4300 for "fair condition. So if KBB is more accurate, maybe you could get what you want for it if you fix the air bag, transmission, and check engine problems, or maybe you could get $3000 less the cost of those repairs and leave the buyer to take care of it (if you find someone who can do some of the work themselves, this might be preferable to them).

btraven

Thank you for all the above advice. I have been offered $1K cash for it. Maybe I should take it. I would also give it to a charity if I thought the charity would get anything from it at auction, but I would hate for them to get only $150, as my accountant predicted.

Mr_Shiftright

Not only that, but if I'm not mistaken, new tax laws on charity donations would require the charity to report the SELLING price as your deduction, not what you valued it at. Only if they keep and use it, and sell it at a later date, could you claim the $1000---but that's just my recollection---by all means, consult a tax consultant.

murrk

I have a 96 Jetta my clutch pedal started to stay to the floor every once in awhile. About a month ago I drove home from work and it worked fine the next morning went to leave and it would not go in to gear its was grinding all the gears so I replaced the clutch c :mad: able and its still not going in to gear. If I start it in gear I can drive it by speed shifting. it has a new clutch in it any answers.......

Mr_Shiftright

Is the cable actually moving/working the clutch fork? Can you see it extend throughout its full travel? If it's actually pulling the clultch lever all the way, then something's broken inside the clutch I would guess. Or someone maybe put the clutch disk in backwards, or the throwout bearing fell apart, or the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel---not sure.

murrk

The clutch is 9 month old I can drive it if its speed shifted. If the grow out bearing broke it wouldn't cause the clutch to disengage. Like I was saying I put a longer one on and it worked for a lil. Is there a rebuild kit for the back end of the tranny?

Mr_Shiftright

No if the throw out or lever is cracking or bending, it would cause the clutch to remain engaged, not disengage. It takes the pressure of the fork + bearing to release the clutch.

needabreak

I just bought this car. (long story in that). Noticed car sputtering after shifting, and granted getting used to shifting again, but was on highway last night and car started sputtering in 5th gear.

Would this be a transmission problem?
Does have an aftermarket radio (saw post that aftermarket radio fried the "computer")

Really need to catch a break here. Spent my savings to have this car, and can't afford major repairs. Put high octane gas and the sputtering is still happening.

Appreciate any and all feed back!

Mr_Shiftright

If you only get the sputtering in 5th gear, this is actually a good clue....5th gear is overdrive and puts a heavy LOAD on the engine if you attempt to climb a hill, or accelerate quickly, or if you shifted too soon into 5th.....this load or "lugging" of the engine will tend to stress out any part of the ignition system that is substandard. So based on the little bit of info you provided, you are experiencing a misfire. This should throw a check engine light eventually, if it happens often enough.

murrk

When is the last time its had a tune-up. Thats the cape ,rotor, plugs and wires. Check to see if the fuel filter is oldthat can cause fuel loss.