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Chrysler Pacifica Transmission Problems
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I think that you have less to worry about driving on the highway in hot weather that driving around town or towing where that transmission is always working. Trans coolers do help extend transmission life through extending the life of the trans fluid. The other things that you can do are to change the trans fluid regularly and/or to go to synthetic trans fluid. Also check you fluid for level and to make sure that it is not "burnt".
I don't understand ... so they fixed your clunking, or not ?
The first time we took it in to the dealer we bought it from they performed a TSB on it that was supposed to take care of this. It did the same thing on the drive home after the repair. We were planning on taking the car back 2 days later but before we had a chance to take it back the check engine light came on.
I took it to another Chrysler dealer (same ownership, different location). They discovered that there were 5 quarts too MUCH transmission fluid in it. The second dealer sent the car up to the original dealer who determined that the power transfer unit had blown some internal seal and we needed a new power transfer unit. After that work was done we picked up the car. While driving it home I noticed that the steering wheel wasn't straight (it was when we took it in) and the check engine light came on again. I took it back to the original dealer and they did 2 front-end alignments because the first one wasn't done right. They also "cleared" the check engine light.
The day after we picked it up the transmission appeared to be doing the same shuddering. I took it to the second dealer who discovered the original transmission problem but they are telling me that it may be a normal thing for the transmission.
My questions:
1. Does this sound right? Could this be a "normal operating condition?"
2. Has anyone else had these problems? If so, what has the resolution been?
I've spoken with an attorney that says I need to have it in 4 times for the same problem before it falls into the Wisconsin lemon law. We like the car but I can't have it be like this. We are planning a 3k+ mile trip to Florida in a few weeks and want to take the car. Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have the EXACT same problems. It shutters at the lower speeds of around 30mph and around 70mph. It is definitely even noticeable when the cruise control is on.
The dealer initially told me that it's a "computer" problem and "re-set" the computer.
Just like you, when I drove it off the lot, the problem was still there. My Check Engine light and ESP lights also came on.
I took it back and they took the bottom half of my tranny apart and "adjusted the valves"? Problem persisted - mechanic noticed it persisting so didn't give the car back.
Next, they took the entire tranny out and decided it was a faulty Torque Converter.
I just got a call today saying that it was done, but I won't have time to pick it up 'till Friday. I did however ask the SVC rep to tell me what was written on the ticket and she said that they wrote something to the effect that the valves were leaking excessively and the Torque Converter was replaced... Please keep in mind that this is a BRAND NEW PACIFICA with less than 1000miles on it!!!
I told the SVC Rep that I wanted the mechanic to take it home and drive it for a couple days, because I don't want it back if the problem persists....
So long and short of it, sounds like they need to drop your entire tranny!
Good Luck!
I have a 2007 pacifica touring. I have the same problem. At speeds of 25-55 I feel like the car wants to stall. It gives a back and forward movement like if it's choking. They tried to reset the computer and a update, but no luck. Did they fix yours and what was it. Any info will be great.
Thanks
vtech
They essentially rebuilt my entire tranny. The torque converter wasn't bad, but they just replace them when they go into the trans. Apparently there were a couple "front bushings" in the front pump assembly that weren't installed properly and caused excessive leaking and it's inability to shift properly.
The long and short of it is they need to disassemble the transmission.
The Svc Record said:
Low presence of metal in pan for under drive clutches. Remove Transmission and replace Torque converter, all input clutch seals, front pump assembly, and Seal Rings. Clean valve body, solenoid. Pack and flush cooler. Reinstall Transmission.
So the Front Pump and seals is really where the problem was.
I hope this helps!!
Your mileage, by the way, is right around normal. Actually, 21 highway is better than I've ever done.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I think, if it concerns you, request to take one on their lot for a test drive. See if its the same.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Scott
The parts arrived. They had the car for two days. We picked it up yesterday. The problem seems to have been fixed. We'll see if that lasts. Thanks again to all here who posted about this issue.
3 weeks later I was back at the dealership because at a traffic light (and my two kids in tow) the damn thing stalls out. I managed to start it up after 10 minutes, dropped off the kids and then off to the dealership. The techs said that a component had to be re-programmed and it should be fine...they told my what they did, but not why it happened to begin with...
Today, I stalled again, at the same light with the kids in tow ...was able to re start after 5 minutes...within 50 yards, the damn thing stalls again...had it towed to dealership who after all day said that the damn thing had needed an updated program to be loaded into it...offered no reason why...Thankfully, I am in NY which has a very specific lemon law. according to that statute, I am halfway to the lemonade stand with this thing...Its a damn shame, such a nice looking car, but so unreliable...
any thoughts, ideas or suggestions from others? Please!
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
In addition to the shuddering, I am also feeling a knocking in my foot when I accelerate up to 20 mph, my steering wheel shakes (which I believe is part of the torque converter issue), is anyone else having these issues?
hotss, please keep us all posted on the new torque converter. I will do the same.
I will post again around 200 miles or so.