Yes, I think the VelvetRide shackles are the best thing I've done to my truck. The rear now rides like the front; instead of bump--POW, it is now bump--bump. Plus, it helps with the premature rear anti-lock brake actuation.
Increasing advance will increase ping and knock (preignition). If you think about retarding ignition until the the spark occurs far too late, maybe even after TDC. You won't have any pinging or knocking, and the engine will barely run.
The reason you won't have any pinging is the combustion pressure is coming well after TDC and the compression pressure is coming down as the combustion pressure is going up. Typical engines have maximum advance of 30-35 degrees BTDC at 3000rpm or more. As the advance is Before Top Dead Center the combustion pressure is increasing as the compression pressure is increasing. If the ignition occurs too far before TDC the combined pressures will cause the remaining air/fuel to ignite before the flame front reach that part of the combustion chamber.
Reducing the advance will cause the combustion pressure to occur later (ATDC) and the peak pressures will not be high enough to cause preignition.
My 2000 silverado 2wd extended has an intermittent vibration at highway speeds and the dealer is waiting for parts to fix it. I am worried they will screw it up because it is their first fix. Any comments from anybody also my front shocks are mushy even on smooth pavement.
Sorry if you misinterpreted my posts, but I do not have my 2001 Silverado LS, Z71, etc, two-tone (white/pewter) yet.
I've been trying to order it since July 14th. But even back then, my dealer indicated no orders for two-tone Silverados are being accepted or being built. And from the sounds of it, they won't be building any until Nov or Dec.
I've had them search other local dealers for the exact truck I want, but they can not find one. And besides, I want one new from the factory, not one that has been sitting outside on a lot for the past 3 months and having been test driven by who knows what kind of drivers.
Bottom line, I can wait until Dec to order it. And who knows, maybe by then Chevrolet will have made even more fixes/improvements to their trucks.
looks just like my '89 Ford diesel. Giant area facing the front, collects bugs and rock dings, but I hate those dang hood deflectors so I guess I'll just live with it. Like the GMC HD hood design better.
Wife told me no more Edmunds till we get back, but I snuck (sneaked?) on one more time...leaving Monday.
You are right...port of Colorado is terrible for docking a cruise ship. I'm thinking about renting a Tundra since it has more standard towing, and pulling the R6 to NY Harbor. (LOL!)
I've hauled that much several times. 3 pallets of retaining wall blocks and 3 pallets of brick pavers...(one at a time)..all at about 3200-3400 lbs each. It rode very well.
A note about loading...when the fork truck puts it in...it has to set it down 2/3 in..and push it the rest of the way. Lay a sheet of plywood down. That kind of weight with the nails and crap on the bottom of the skid will tear the heck out of a drop in or a spray in. It ripped the plywood pretty good. My father in law had his Line-X ripped up pretty good like that....and Line x is harder than Rhino...
Those pictures last night lit up my mind about getting a crew cab next time?
I seem to use the back for more seat up hauling than seat down passengers..and alwalys find my self bitching cuz once you load the back with boxes and put a hand cart on top it's too tall.. or worse yet...the space is not wide enough and the seat has to go up.(I am an all the way back driver).
I wish the seat had a quick release so you would gain the 8 inches or so when it's folded up. I could take it out..but I'd be caught in a spur of the moment situation when I would need a seat for people...I used to have a reg cab short box and made due with 2 seats...so it wouldn't be the end of the world...
Then I thought this morning..."hey...the back seats of a crew cab are not a flip up bench...are they?....do they even fold down?...if so I would have lost about 18 inches or so from the floor up.
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
They are fold downs...right?...or has there been a flip up bench?
I know how to put a pallet of whatever in peoples trucks i have done it a bunch of times probably 5 times a day+ when i work at menards. I have yet to dent scratch or ruin a truck (well complaints that is) i have scrtached but thats because there is no bedliner.
get this....2500 is about 500-600 Lbs more than 1500..New HD is 125 Lbs more than a 2500....crew cab is 5 lbs more than extended cab...that's it?..5 lbs?
I went through hell with that rod. First one i bought $150 flew outta the back of my grandpas truck about 4 yrs ago. So i bought the same one but with a rod this time so it was like $200 plus the line i had put on it berkley firewire bright green.
Why would i keep my rod with me it was locked up in a cottage i figured it was safe just like if it were at my house.
Damn kidds nowadays. I will find that rod and reel trust me then heads will roll. I lready started looking for a new one very expensive
oh yeah...it needs some light guards... LOL. Ryan, where did you order your's from...still waiting? didn't order someplace else? why? So many questions so little time....
Heres the story called monday they told me they would call back in 15 min i forgot they didnt call back. I was pissed i called tues guy was like lt me call you back in 5 min i was like are you gonna call back today? he did A westin truck was at their warehouse at that very minute didnt know if my stuff was on their but it was very likely. Warehouse i found out is in pennsylvania WHAT IN THE HELL??? haha Westin is in Minnesota and i am in Indiana??? makes no sense to me but they said probably another wk hopefully. If i dont get them by the end of next wk i am getting my money back even thought its a special order F them. Ill call my credit card company. SO thats the infamous taill light guard story
being Friday, I figuered either you got them or cancelled the order. Personally I think you've waited too long for such a small item. I would've ordered from somewhere else. Damn, going on a month for tail light guards kinda long don't ya think?
Nice looking 2500!! Looks like what I want to get...... except I'm getting the 1500, Z71, 5.3L with Westin CPS step bars, no fender flares, some aftermarket wheels with WOL 265's.....and the short box so the darn thing will fit in my garage.
What year is yours?
I too felt that the pewter seems to have a bit of gold tint to it. Kinda why I want the white upper/pewter lower colors. When I first saw a Pewter Silverado 2 years ago, I thought it was the Sunset Gold. But when I actually saw the Sunset Gold, it looked way too brown for me.
Have you tried any Zaino products on it yet? If so, how will do they work on white/pewter?
I was by the local Chevy Dealer today and took time to ask the Chief of the Service Department about 5.3 knocks/pings. He gave me the company line about today's engines are designed to meet lower emissions/better fuel mileage and can be noiser.
When I queried him about the redesign of the 5.3 in 2001 to eliminate excessive rod bearing clearance and engine noise, he stated he was not aware. When I stated it was announced in the GM Media Releases, he stated he had not seen it. Later in the conversation, he admitted that this dealership has replaced two 5.3 engines that in his terminology "failed".
Please realize I am the type of person who looks at a glass as half empty. Please tell me there is a silver lining in this cloud, or should I be thinking trade-in?
The truck is a Y2K, built at Pontiac East for Canada, then brought back into the U.S. by Roy Robinson (technically, it was "used", but only had 89 miles, full factory warranty, etc.).
Theoretically, if I clear out some stuff in my garage and get the truck centered, it will fit with a whopping 18" to spare in front and in back! The major problem, though, actually comes from that "clear out some stuff" part. Somehow never seems to get done!
I haven't even washed it yet, although when you're close to it you can see it could use it. However, I commute 522 between Monroe and Woodinville every day; since 522 is also the primary access for a rock quarry, two gravel quarries, and a topsoil service, and now there is the road construction as well, I don't bother too much with trying to keep my vehicles sparkling clean.
Thanks for the update, I thought that you' be out crusin by now....any way I can't find a truck like that either, and I like you, don't want one that has been at a dealer's lot for every Tom, Dick, and Harry to drive, fiddle with everthing, and abuse. --Sir-Col
How do you like your Guardians? I am going to order a set of black guardians soon. Do you have them full length or cab length? Did you do the install yourself. I am planning on installing my own. Thanks.
1. Start with the ignition OFF, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel. Turn ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF. Release power unlock button on the door panel. The locks will cycle once.
2. Hold down the keyless entry transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons for 15 seconds. The locks will again cycle once.
3. Repeat step #2 for each additional keyless entry transmitter.
4. Turn the ignition on to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode. Programming is now complete.
Transmitter Synchronization
- Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by the remote keyless entry system. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR).
-The RCDLR will not respond to a signal that has been sent previously. This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.
-The panic button should still operate normally when the system is out of synchronization.
-Resynchronization may be necessary under the following conditions:
1. The battery in the transmitter is very weak 2. The battery in the transmitter was replaced 3. The battery in the vehicle has been in a low or no charge condition for an extended period of time
-In order to resynchronize the transmitter with the RCDLR, perform the following steps:
1. Stand within 1.5 meters (5 ft) from the vehicle. 2. Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for 7 secs.
The door locks should cycle in order to confirm resynchronization.
The service manual is wrong. The engineers that designed the 5.3 engine designed it to run on 87, according to my friend in the industry. Perhaps the 6.0 needs premium, but the 5.3 does not, and I assume the 4.8 does not either. Personal use has confirmed it; 91-92 octane does nothing for either performance or mileage on my LT over 87.
But if it makes you feel better paying 20 cents per gallon extra (or more), go ahead.
One of my contacts at GM was a guy on their Answerman phone line. As is normal these folks move around within the organization to different jobs. When I spoke to him back in March, before the manuals were available, he indicated that he had been given the task of re-editing the GMT-800 manual to correct mistakes. Judging from the volumes of material in these books, this is a monumental task(not one that I would enjoy). My guess is that we are going to find many inconsistancies within the pages. If it is working for you, then do it. I think Dean is right on, on this topic. matthew
I picked up my 2001 Z71 black/pewter yesterday. What a really nice truck. I'm just happier than a hog in a mud hole. The stereo just has awesome sound. David I know where a white over pewter is - Decatur, Il. It is a really nice Z71 except it has fender flares and did not have the power bucket seats I wanted. My dealer has not even put the 2001's out on the lot. He has about 50-75 2000's left and said it was easier to sell them if the 2001's weren't out. $2,000 rebate on 3-door and $1,000 rebate on 2000 4-door (I haven't checked that out -just what he said. Well - got to go drive around some more (ha). Denny
What do you all think the chances are that the 265 Firestone Wilderness tires that came on the Silverado's will be recalled? I know they aren't yet, but will this recall spread? denny
if it's any indication....the Yukon was parked in a Handicap stall...you know the one that's designated for person's with a handicap sticker on their vehicle...does that tell you anything about the carmine red...
Mike L & roger 350 you're correct that knock and ping will go away if you retard the timing. This is because the only source of ignition you are using with this technique is the compression of the cyclinder (in essence you're gas engine is running like a diesel engine). This is possible because the compression of the cylinder is creating a temperature high enough to cause gasoline to spontaniously combust (ie. that engine needs a higher octane fuel to stop it). Mike consider this: If compression is increasing before TDC and advancing the spark causes a huge spike in pressure (and temperature, roger, because of PV=nRT where V,n,&R are constants) that generates autoignition, how much greater is this effect when at TDC(where pressure is at its greatest due to piston movement) and the spark goes off? Fact of the matter is: to much advance and any "ping or knock" you can hear with your ear is more than likely valve rattle caused by the explosive gasses escaping out the head. Retarding the timeing only gives wave propogation from autoignition more time to consume the air fuel mix in the cylinder making the use of the sparkplug moot as it is sparking into nothing. Bottomline: knock and ping do "go away" by retarding the timing but not for the reason you think. Any increase in cylinder pressure after TDC(rpm a factor) is wasted energy (lost horses). Remember the fuel air mix in your cylinders takes the same amount of time to burn at 0 rpm as it does at 3500 rpm. The difference is the amount of time the piston stays in ideal position for combustion and optimal energy capture. For this reason your engine will always fire BTDC. The error pointed out about the manual substantiates what I wrote earlier about engine design. Mike's manual probably still has specs for when it was set up as a Vette engine and tuned for max performance. Dean needs 93 octane because the HP III system and thermostat have modified the performance of his engine. Running cooler promotes better volumetric efficiency (cold air is denser than warm air) and allows a greater delta(difference) of cyclinder wall temp and combustion temp making the Otto cycle for his engine, possibly, a little more efficient. I suspect the biggest reason Dean needs the 93 is that the HP III program makes it that way. HP III programs can run on 87 as well, you just have to tell the CPU that before it puts the control data into your trucks computer.
>Mike L & roger 350 you're correct that knock and >ping will go away if you retard the timing.
OK, this I will agree with.
>This is because the only source of ignition you >are using with this technique is the compression >of the cyclinder (in essence you're gas engine >is running like a diesel engine). This is >possible because the compression of the cylinder >is creating a temperature high enough to cause >gasoline to spontaniously combust
The compression and the fact that the fuel/air mixture is being ignited too early, causing the pressure to go higher than the fuel can withstand.
>(ie. that >engine needs a higher octane fuel to >stop it). Mike consider this: If compression is >increasing before TDC and advancing the spark >causes a huge spike in pressure (and >temperature, roger, because of PV=nRT where >V,n,&R are constants) that generates >autoignition, how much greater is this effect >when at TDC(where pressure is at its greatest >due to piston movement) and the spark goes off?
The pressure is much lower at that point if the engine is running. As you mentioned, it takes time for the fuel to burn and the pressure to rise. If the engine is not running, then you may have a point.
>Fact of the matter is: to much advance and >any "ping or knock" you can hear with your ear >is more than likely valve rattle caused by the >explosive gasses escaping out the head.
If that was true, you would always hear it in a good running engine.
>Retarding the timeing only gives wave >propogation from autoignition more time to >consume the air fuel mix in the cylinder making >the use of the sparkplug moot as it is sparking >into nothing.
Retarding the timing gives any autoignition wave LESS time, not more. Retarding timing moves the ignition closer to TDC, that is less before TDC. Retarding the timing prevents preignition and allows the spark plug to do it's job.
>Bottomline: knock and ping do "go away" by >retarding the timing but not for the reason you >think. Any increase in cylinder pressure after >TDC(rpm a factor) is wasted energy (lost horses).
Any increase in cylinder pressure after TDC makes power. Any increase in cylinder pressure BEFORE TDC takes away power. Remember, the engine has to further compress that cylinder pressure to get the piston to TDC before it can start down. And it only makes power on the way down.
>Remember the fuel air mix in your cylinders takes >the same amount of time to burn at 0 rpm as it >does at 3500 rpm.
OK, I'll agree with that also.
>The difference is the amount of time the piston >stays in ideal position for combustion and >optimal energy capture.
There's your problem. The engine never stays in any position. It is running and always turning. And the ideal position for optimal energy capture would be 40-70 degrees After TDC. The rod has the maximum mechanical advantage on the crankshaft at that point, and all the pressure of the piston is pushing down on the crankshaft. At TDC the piston is not able to cause the crankshaft to rotate.
>For this reason your engine will always fire >BTDC.
Engines don't always fire BTDC. Firing ATDC has been used on many engines that turn slowly. And on some others at idle.
>The error pointed out about the manual >substantiates what I wrote earlier about engine >design. Mike's manual probably still has specs tuned for max performance.
I'm not sure the shop manual is wrong. I also got my best mileage when running under conditions that allowed more advance. My truck's 6.0L engine was never a Corvette engine. And it is tuned for max performance. The definition of performance for a truck is not the same as it is for a sports car.
>Dean needs 93 octane because the HP III system >and thermostat have modified the performance of >his engine. Running cooler promotes better >volumetric efficiency (cold air is denser than >warm air) and allows a greater delta(difference) >of cyclinder wall temp and combustion temp >making the Otto cycle for his engine, possibly, >a little more efficient.
Cold air should increase the octane needs of an engine, not reduce it. It lets more air into the engine because cooler air is more dense.
>I suspect the biggest reason Dean needs the 93 >is that the HP III program makes it that way. HP >III programs can run on 87 as well, you just >have to tell the CPU that before it puts the >control data into your trucks computer.
Aftermarket computers don't change the engine calibrations at part throttle, only at full throttle. The EPA does not control emmissions at full throttle. If they change the calibrations at part throttle they will have to recertify the emmissions performance of the engine. That is very costly, and they won't do it.
An engine is a set of comprimises. One of the comprimises is ignition timing.
If they ignition takes place too early (BTDC, too much advance) then full combustion pressure can occur before TDC, and the engine will not be able to push the piston past TDC. Rods, cranks and piston break from this kind of pressure.
If the combustion takes place too late (BTDC or ATDC, too little advance, too much retard) then the air/fuel mixture is still burning and expanding as the piston is moving away. Very little of the pressure is available to push the piston down. A lot of burning will take place in the exhaust. This can cause overheating, severeloss of power, etc.
Ideally, combustion would be instantaneous, and occur just at or slightly after TDC. Then minimal power would be required to compress the air/fuel mixture, and all the combustion pressure would be available to push the piston down. Since combustion is not instantaneous, the engineers have to select advance to reduce the amount of power wasted on the compression upstroke and maximize the amount of pressure available on the power downstroke. Too much advance increases the combustion pressure that must be further compressed on the upstroke. Too much advance also causes preignition. Too little advance reduces the amount of pressure available on the downstroke.
Factory engineers must account for production variances, and wind up using less than optimal advance for most engines. If they used optimal advance, some engines would have too much advance and would knock and ping like crazy. Big warranty problems. A little less advance for most engines means slightly reduced power and economy, but no failures.
Does anyone out there have any information on installing computer chips in their trucks? I would like to install a chip that will give me better gas mileage. I have a 2000 Silverado with the 4.8 liter and would like to improve my gas mileage if it's possible.
Comments
The reason you won't have any pinging is the combustion pressure is coming well after TDC and the compression pressure is coming down as the combustion pressure is going up. Typical engines have maximum advance of 30-35 degrees BTDC at 3000rpm or more. As the advance is Before Top Dead Center the combustion pressure is increasing as the compression pressure is increasing. If the ignition occurs too far before TDC the combined pressures will cause the remaining air/fuel to ignite before the flame front reach that part of the combustion chamber.
Reducing the advance will cause the combustion pressure to occur later (ATDC) and the peak pressures will not be high enough to cause preignition.
Mike L
Steve Sacramento
Scott
I've been trying to order it since July 14th. But even back then, my dealer indicated no orders for two-tone Silverados are being accepted or being built. And from the sounds of it, they won't be building any until Nov or Dec.
I've had them search other local dealers for the exact truck I want, but they can not find one. And besides, I want one new from the factory, not one that has been sitting outside on a lot for the past 3 months and having been test driven by who knows what kind of drivers.
Bottom line, I can wait until Dec to order it. And who knows, maybe by then Chevrolet will have made even more fixes/improvements to their trucks.
-David
You are right...port of Colorado is terrible for docking a cruise ship. I'm thinking about renting a Tundra since it has more standard towing, and pulling the R6 to NY Harbor. (LOL!)
Thanks, and see you when I get back Sept 4.
Aloha...
I've hauled that much several times. 3 pallets of retaining wall blocks and 3 pallets of brick pavers...(one at a time)..all at about 3200-3400 lbs each. It rode very well.
A note about loading...when the fork truck puts it in...it has to set it down 2/3 in..and push it the rest of the way. Lay a sheet of plywood down. That kind of weight with the nails and crap on the bottom of the skid will tear the heck out of a drop in or a spray in. It ripped the plywood pretty good. My father in law had his Line-X ripped up pretty good like that....and Line x is harder than Rhino...
Markbuck,
....They make bug guards...
Quad,
BAD QUAD!
LOL
Enjoy the trip.
- Tim
I seem to use the back for more seat up hauling than seat down passengers..and alwalys find my self bitching cuz once you load
the back with boxes and put a hand cart on top it's too tall.. or worse yet...the space is not wide enough and the seat has to go
up.(I am an all the way back driver).
I wish the seat had a quick release so you would gain the 8 inches or so when it's folded up. I could take it out..but I'd be
caught in a spur of the moment situation when I would need a seat for people...I used to have a reg cab short box and made
due with 2 seats...so it wouldn't be the end of the world...
Then I thought this morning..."hey...the back seats of a crew cab are not a flip up bench...are they?....do they even fold
down?...if so I would have lost about 18 inches or so from the floor up.
GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
They are fold downs...right?...or has there been a flip up bench?
fill me in man!
(I got too much time today....I know)
- Tim
Ryan
Ryan
- Tim
rolling?....i seem to recall you being fired up on my site last night man?
LOL
Lunch is over....se ya!
- Tim
Still kinda am.
I have to buy a new freaking fishing pole.
Ryan
get this....2500 is about 500-600 Lbs more than 1500..New HD is 125 Lbs more than a 2500....crew cab is 5 lbs more than extended cab...that's it?..5 lbs?
OK....lunch is REALLY over now
LOL
- Tim
Hey Ryan, this time buy a better fishing pole...Maybe a $500 one...that way you'll keep it with you instead of having it stolen...
And it is 7:13 am as I post this...
Dean
Why would i keep my rod with me it was locked up in a cottage i figured it was safe just like if it were at my house.
Damn kidds nowadays. I will find that rod and reel trust me then heads will roll. I lready started looking for a new one
Ryan
Ryan
Dean
Heres the story called monday they told me they would call back in 15 min i forgot they didnt call back. I was pissed i called tues guy was like lt me call you back in 5 min i was like are you gonna call back today? he did A westin truck was at their warehouse at that very minute didnt know if my stuff was on their but it was very likely. Warehouse i found out is in pennsylvania WHAT IN THE HELL??? haha Westin is in Minnesota and i am in Indiana??? makes no sense to me but they said probably another wk hopefully. If i dont get them by the end of next wk i am getting my money back even thought its a special order F them. Ill call my credit card company. SO thats the infamous taill light guard story
Ryan
Dean
Westin just started making them beginning of june and started shipping them the day i ordered them. Their website verified this.
Ryan
ya did fine for the pics......
- Guru Tim
Looks like what I want to get......
except I'm getting the 1500, Z71, 5.3L with Westin CPS step bars, no fender flares, some aftermarket wheels with WOL 265's.....and the short box so the darn thing will fit in my garage.
What year is yours?
I too felt that the pewter seems to have a bit of gold tint to it. Kinda why I want the white upper/pewter lower colors.
When I first saw a Pewter Silverado 2 years ago, I thought it was the Sunset Gold. But when I actually saw the Sunset Gold, it looked way too brown for me.
Have you tried any Zaino products on it yet?
If so, how will do they work on white/pewter?
-David
Get something off the shelf...
Good luck
Good weekend yawllllll
- Tim
When I queried him about the redesign of the 5.3 in 2001 to eliminate excessive rod bearing clearance and engine noise, he stated he was not aware. When I stated it was announced in the GM Media Releases, he stated he had not seen it. Later in the conversation, he admitted that this dealership has replaced two 5.3 engines that in his terminology "failed".
Please realize I am the type of person who looks at a glass as half empty. Please tell me there is a silver lining in this cloud, or should I be thinking trade-in?
Theoretically, if I clear out some stuff in my garage and get the truck centered, it will fit with a whopping 18" to spare in front and in back! The major problem, though, actually comes from that "clear out some stuff" part. Somehow never seems to get done!
I haven't even washed it yet, although when you're close to it you can see it could use it. However, I commute 522 between Monroe and Woodinville every day; since 522 is also the primary access for a rock quarry, two gravel quarries, and a topsoil service, and now there is the road construction as well, I don't bother too much with trying to keep my vehicles sparkling clean.
--Sir-Col
1. Start with the ignition OFF, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel. Turn ignition key ON, OFF, ON, OFF. Release power unlock button on the door panel. The locks will cycle once.
2. Hold down the keyless entry transmitter LOCK and UNLOCK buttons for 15 seconds. The locks will again cycle once.
3. Repeat step #2 for each additional keyless entry transmitter.
4. Turn the ignition on to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode. Programming is now complete.
Transmitter Synchronization
- Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by the remote keyless entry system.
The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR).
-The RCDLR will not respond to a signal that has been sent previously.
This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.
-The panic button should still operate normally when the system is out of synchronization.
-Resynchronization may be necessary under the following conditions:
1. The battery in the transmitter is very weak
2. The battery in the transmitter was replaced
3. The battery in the vehicle has been in a
low or no charge condition for an extended
period of time
-In order to resynchronize the transmitter with the RCDLR, perform the following steps:
1. Stand within 1.5 meters (5 ft) from the
vehicle.
2. Simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and
UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for 7 secs.
The door locks should cycle in order to confirm resynchronization.
But if it makes you feel better paying 20 cents per gallon extra (or more), go ahead.
Dean
Color aside, I thought that thing looked pretty ugly. just my opinion though...
Dean
Ryan
matthew
David I know where a white over pewter is - Decatur, Il. It is a really nice Z71 except it has fender flares and did not have the power bucket seats I wanted.
My dealer has not even put the 2001's out on the lot. He has about 50-75 2000's left and said it was easier to sell them if the 2001's weren't out. $2,000 rebate on 3-door and $1,000 rebate on 2000 4-door (I haven't checked that out -just what he said.
Well - got to go drive around some more (ha).
Denny
matthew
denny
bco
DOnt hold your breath on the recall. They wont do it
Ryan
have a blast.
...red
Dean
The error pointed out about the manual substantiates what I wrote earlier about engine design. Mike's manual probably still has specs for when it was set up as a Vette engine and tuned for max performance. Dean needs 93 octane because the HP III system and thermostat have modified the performance of his engine. Running cooler promotes better volumetric efficiency (cold air is denser than warm air) and allows a greater delta(difference) of cyclinder wall temp and combustion temp making the Otto cycle for his engine, possibly, a little more efficient. I suspect the biggest reason Dean needs the 93 is that the HP III program makes it that way. HP III programs can run on 87 as well, you just have to tell the CPU that before it puts the control data into your trucks computer.
Another .02 worth
Phil
I bet they don't recall a single 16" tire. Only 15". Any takers?
>ping will go away if you retard the timing.
OK, this I will agree with.
>This is because the only source of ignition you >are using with this technique is the compression >of the cyclinder (in essence you're gas engine >is running like a diesel engine). This is >possible because the compression of the cylinder >is creating a temperature high enough to cause >gasoline to spontaniously combust
The compression and the fact that the fuel/air mixture is being ignited too early, causing the pressure to go higher than the fuel can withstand.
>(ie. that >engine needs a higher octane fuel to >stop it). Mike consider this: If compression is >increasing before TDC and advancing the spark >causes a huge spike in pressure (and >temperature, roger, because of PV=nRT where >V,n,&R are constants) that generates >autoignition, how much greater is this effect >when at TDC(where pressure is at its greatest >due to piston movement) and the spark goes off?
The pressure is much lower at that point if the engine is running. As you mentioned, it takes time for the fuel to burn and the pressure to rise. If the engine is not running, then you may have a point.
>Fact of the matter is: to much advance and >any "ping or knock" you can hear with your ear >is more than likely valve rattle caused by the >explosive gasses escaping out the head.
If that was true, you would always hear it in a good running engine.
>Retarding the timeing only gives wave >propogation from autoignition more time to >consume the air fuel mix in the cylinder making >the use of the sparkplug moot as it is sparking >into nothing.
Retarding the timing gives any autoignition wave LESS time, not more. Retarding timing moves the ignition closer to TDC, that is less before TDC. Retarding the timing prevents preignition and allows the spark plug to do it's job.
>Bottomline: knock and ping do "go away" by
>retarding the timing but not for the reason you
>think. Any increase in cylinder pressure after
>TDC(rpm a factor) is wasted energy (lost horses).
Any increase in cylinder pressure after TDC makes power. Any increase in cylinder pressure BEFORE TDC takes away power. Remember, the engine has to further compress that cylinder pressure to get the piston to TDC before it can start down. And it only makes power on the way down.
>Remember the fuel air mix in your cylinders takes
>the same amount of time to burn at 0 rpm as it >does at 3500 rpm.
OK, I'll agree with that also.
>The difference is the amount of time the piston >stays in ideal position for combustion and >optimal energy capture.
There's your problem. The engine never stays in any position. It is running and always turning. And the ideal position for optimal energy capture would be 40-70
degrees After TDC. The rod has the maximum mechanical advantage on the crankshaft at that point, and all the pressure of the piston is pushing down on the crankshaft. At TDC the piston is not able to cause the crankshaft to rotate.
>For this reason your engine will always fire >BTDC.
Engines don't always fire BTDC. Firing ATDC has been used on many engines that turn slowly. And on some others at idle.
>The error pointed out about the manual >substantiates what I wrote earlier about engine
>design. Mike's manual probably still has specs tuned for max performance.
I'm not sure the shop manual is wrong. I also got my best mileage when running under conditions that allowed more advance. My truck's 6.0L engine was never a Corvette engine. And it is tuned for max performance. The definition of performance for a truck is not the same as it is for a sports car.
>Dean needs 93 octane because the HP III system >and thermostat have modified the performance of >his engine. Running cooler promotes better >volumetric efficiency (cold air is denser than >warm air) and allows a greater delta(difference) >of cyclinder wall temp and combustion temp >making the Otto cycle for his engine, possibly, >a little more efficient.
Cold air should increase the octane needs of an engine, not reduce it. It lets more air into the engine because cooler air is more dense.
>I suspect the biggest reason Dean needs the 93 >is that the HP III program makes it that way. HP >III programs can run on 87 as well, you just >have to tell the CPU that before it puts the >control data into your trucks computer.
Aftermarket computers don't change the engine calibrations at part throttle, only at full throttle. The EPA does not control emmissions at full throttle. If they change the calibrations at part throttle they will have to recertify the emmissions performance of the engine. That is very costly, and they won't do it.
An engine is a set of comprimises. One of the comprimises is ignition timing.
If they ignition takes place too early (BTDC, too much advance) then full combustion pressure can occur before TDC, and the engine will not be able to push the piston past TDC. Rods, cranks and piston break from this kind of pressure.
If the combustion takes place too late (BTDC or ATDC, too little advance, too much retard) then the air/fuel mixture is still burning and expanding as the piston is moving away. Very little of the pressure is available to push the piston down. A lot of burning will take place in the exhaust. This can cause overheating, severeloss of power, etc.
Ideally, combustion would be instantaneous, and occur just at or slightly after TDC. Then minimal power would be required to compress the air/fuel mixture, and all the combustion pressure would be available to push the piston down. Since combustion is not instantaneous, the engineers have to select advance to reduce the amount of power wasted on the compression upstroke and maximize the amount of pressure available on the power downstroke. Too much advance increases the combustion pressure that must be further compressed on the upstroke. Too much advance also causes preignition. Too little advance reduces the amount of pressure available on the downstroke.
Factory engineers must account for production variances, and wind up using less than optimal advance for most engines. If they used optimal advance, some engines would have too much advance and would knock and ping like crazy. Big warranty problems. A little less advance for most engines means slightly reduced power and economy, but no failures.
Enough for now.
Mike L