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Chevy Silverado - Continued IX

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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    there's only one person on this topic that's REALLY entertaining with his 3M tape and all....I'm glad for him that those light guards install with the red 3M tape also... ;)

    pathomp

    Good luck with the Gibson. Keep us posted. There are other options available should you have in cab resonance that you don't want...and no it doesn't require removing the Gibson....rear seat maybe...

    rwagoner

    ditto, I love my black on black also

    From Kwajalien
    Dean
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Dean light guards install with existing bolt holes. You have to remove the tail lights

    JAU- I placed my order on a saturday march 11th. They put the order through to gm on tues (14th) and was accepted. Tues is the day i think dealerships put orders through. Can anyone verify this???

    Ryan
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    denn777denn777 Member Posts: 52
    I am paying invoice for the 2001 silverado, but that includes a 1% advertising fee. I originally ordered from a small dealer at $200 over invoice, but no advertising fee. So I am actually paying $100 more at the larger dealership.
    David - if I were you I would just start calling dealerships in your area on the phone (this saves a lot of time) and asking for the new car or truck manager. Tell them what you want to do "Pay $200 over invoice, no advertising fee" or whatever. Start with larger dealerships as they have more allocation of ext cabs, etc.
    I made my deal over the phone in maybe 5 minutes and then went in and it took about another 30 minutes to make out the order.
    Keep in mind I still don't have my new truck yet (ha) but sort of feel I'm headed in the right direction.
    Sorry if I'm repeating earlier posts but hoping this info can help someone else.
    Denny

    ps: there is a GMC dealer that posts it sells trucks at $200 under invoice: www.autos-at-cost.com. This is Southern GM and I know there are those on here that don't like them, but it at least gives somewhere to look to see whats available.
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    ha ha, you see what i'm talking about don't you?
    funny thing is though, that person does'nt even
    realize who you were makin' cracks at. LOL
    sometimes it's fun to just kick back and see what
    he comes up with next. and then to watch Tim
    slice and diceLOL

    Good Luck On This One Now!!!!


    ...red
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    what's wrong with red on red? Victory red that
    is.


    ...red
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Dean,
    You are correct that the readings for a torque wrench are to tighten, and readings when the fastener breaks loose are erronious. That being said, my method was to tighten the lug nuts and the torque wrench "clicked" at 60 lbs./ft. with some at 50. The nuts were turning at that point until it clicked. (didn't use impact to romove wheel nuts)

    It just made me wonder about the torque setting from the factory. However, my partner at work reminded me about the first time I installed aluminum wheels back in '72 and did not have the customer bring the vehicle back in 30 miles to have the wheel nuts retorqued. She was a knockout, the 1/4 panel was ugly. I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced what seemed like low torque settings on wheel nuts from dat of build.

    Red,
    Friend of mine Scottsdale AZ does buildable wrecks and built himself a 99 Sierra. Monochrome red. Door handles, mouldings, bumper fillers, etc. Man is this thing red, but the 17" wheels and tires set it off real nice.

    There is hope yet.

    Matthew
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    settings for the platic lugs? Damn, I had to laugh as I typed this one...seriouly tho...looked in the manuals and didn't have anything on this one. I know when you tighten it, after awhile, it seems to lock in place...that is until you start driving again...vibrations make them loosen bigtime quick...

    red

    being older as compared to Ryan, I may qualify for the carmine...LOL

    Dean
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    pathomppathomp Member Posts: 25
    Sorry, I don't think I get it... Remove the rear seat???? or what??

    Anyway Dave says it's not loud at all, wishes it was louder. I'll let you know.

    Paul
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    mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    a Torque wrench can be used to loosen if you don't have a breaker bar long enough?

    Although I got every tool known to man.....LOL....drives the wife crazy!

    - Tim
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    blackmax200blackmax200 Member Posts: 255
    Red,
    The notches break, or strip out and are useless inside of a few years anyway! There really ought to be something better, and easier!

    Tim,
    24" 1/2 inch breaker bar...if that ain't enough...6foot length of 2" galvanized black is enough of a "widow maker" for me! haha Gota love Snap-On..."It just broke!"

    matt
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    mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    usually an 18" 1/2 breaker is enough....although I have done the pipe trick from time to time...

    Usually a torque wrench takes the place of an 18" breaker bar real good if you don't have one..

    - Tim
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    on that 6 foot pipe, in fact a couple of guys could jump on that one...

    Paul

    Didn't you know that Dave40 is tone deaf? He should be runnin Flowmaster 30's... LOL
    You could always add stereo insulation in the rear and bottom of the cab to lessen in cab resonance from the Gibson, I did that with a guesstamation reduction of about 30%, extended the tip past the body by about 6"; also could add on a "resonator tip"...good luck...

    Dean
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    denn777denn777 Member Posts: 52
    Guess what??? I just received a call from my reputable dealer stating there has been a nationwide stop put on all two tones until Nov or Dec. I think I was just fed a line of sh_t.
    He swears the order was accepted but, forgive me, I find it hard to believe.
    Sorry for misleading you but I guess I'm just gullible. Denny
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Dont believe that BS. Ill email the guy who i bought my truck from to find out if this is fact for ya. I doubt that there is a nationwide stop. Why is it causing deaths? They keep putting firestones on trucks why not 2 tone paint. GRRRRRRRRRRR frustrating isnt it??

    Ryan
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    dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    What is going on here?
    When my '00 Silverado Z71 has the 2Hi indicator lamp lit, I then depress the 4Hi. The 4Hi lamp blinks for 3 or 4 seconds, stays lit and the 2Hi lamp is extinguished and it appears the truck is in 4WD high gear.

    NOW the problem? I depress the 4LO, the lamp blinks continuously as well as the 4HI remains lit. I can't tell if the truck has actually shifted to 4LO. Does anyone have a clue as to what is happening? Thanx
    Dustyone
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Denny,
    Thanks for the update. I guess my local dealer and Chevrolet.com may have been right when they said 3 weeks ago that I could not order the Siverado with two-tone. If GM says no two-tones until Nov or Dec, that really means no two-tones until Apr or May if you look at their previous track record with the 4th door option availability on the ext-cabs.

    If I have to wait that long, my order may be for the 2002 Silverado!

    Ryan,
    Let us know what your salesman says.

    -David
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    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Are you stopped when shifting, or are you moving?

    If you move forward, you can tell if you are in Lo range by the speed/rpms. Just pull it into Lo gear and select 4Hi and note speed/rpms. Select 4Lo and repeat. The speed should be about 1/3 at the same rpms.

    To tell if you are actually in 4wd, try to move forward on dry pavement. Turn sharp to either right or left. In 4wd you will hear noises as the truck refuses to turn anymore unless you give it a lot of throttle.

    If you are having trouble either getting into 4wd or into 4Lo, its time to visit the dealer.

    Mike L
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    i emailed him about that and a few questions i had. I am taking my truck in monday for the dash rattle and i dont wanna give them the truck for 8 hrs and then have to hear we couldnt duplicate the rattle so i emailed him asking about a fix. Ill be so pissed if they dont fix it. Its so obvious. I am not going in till monday but after i hear people talking about their experiences i am reay to do battle

    Ryan
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    quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Dustyone,
    I think you have to be stopped, with the selector in neutral to get 4-Lo.
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    quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    1/2 qt to fill the filter, AC Delco PF59.
    Then 6 qts in the crankcase. Run engine for one minute.

    Brings it to the top of the cross hatch area on
    dipstick. I don't care what yall say....It's MY truck. MY DIPSTICK is correct. Send yours in to
    me along with check or money order for $19.95 to:

    Dipstick calibration offer
    P.O. Box 21259
    NY, NY

    Not valid with any other offer. Not valid for NY
    residents. Allow 6 months for delivery.
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    mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Have you ever been in low before?....when you are..trust me...you will know it..

    In my old Chevy a quick push of the lever from 2 Hi..past N.into 4 Lo was all it took.

    With buttons...you have to be stopped..or going 2-3 MPH and go from N to 4LO...you will know..

    I have yet in almost a year to need 4-LO with this truck...it came in twice in 10 years with the old one.

    Good Luck

    - Tim
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    odenmeyerodenmeyer Member Posts: 61
    I attempted to install the Velvet-Ride shackles on my '00 Chevy truck last night and ran into some problems. Both existing shackle bolts (upper and lower) have the bolt heads on the inside (closest to the frame). The instructions say to remove the lower bolt first but this is impossible since it will hit the frame on the way out. Is there any other way to remove this bolt short of cutting it off with a torch? Are there any additional install tips for the installation of these shackles?? Thanks

    Mark
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    werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    everyone here is pretty on the money with the 4 lo answers. your truck (according to the manual) will not go into 4 lo unless you follow the instructions to a 'T'. best way to do it for your truck is to do from a roll. in 2 hi, get your truck going about 10-15 mph. shift your transmission to neutral. with one finger on the 4 lo button, use the brake to slow the vehicle to a 3-5 mph roll. when it is, press and release the 4 lo button. once the 4 lo lamp is on, stop, shift the transmission to drive and try to execute a low speed sharp turn. it will take a great deal more throttle than usual. addtionally, it will feel and sound different than normal. best thing to do is read your manual and practice once or twice. just like the spare tire removal. better to practice and know how to do it before you NEED to. 4 lo should only be used if you're stuck (i.e. 4 hi don't work), or if say you're pulling a stuck/dead ford in slippery conditions...

    kyle
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    odenmeyerodenmeyer Member Posts: 61
    Does anyone have the torque settings for the shackle bolts? I also need to install a set of Westin CPS step bars and need the torque setting for the cab mount bolts. Thanks

    Mark
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    werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    i installed my cps's myself. torque setting? with a regular socket set - as hard as you can hand tighten it. (that's what i did and it's been great.) with an impact wrench, if i remember right it's between 100 and 150 ft-lb.

    kyle
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    mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    are about 65-80?

    one was finger tight when I took it out..and the other was about 20 lbs...so it's not real critical....just don't cruch the large rubber washer too much.


    Don't ask Ryan...as he has never been under there!..LOL..heehehehehhhe
    - Tim
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    sabot1sabot1 Member Posts: 28
    Tim,
    Looked into the HPIII system. Liked what I saw but I'm not sure I need to tweek my truck that much for what I do. Like the idea of having more control of the computer. Didn't like the idea of a $300+ plus system designed to only work on one vehicle at a time. The info from the HP site answered a lot of questions about octane and what to use. The advance is set for 87 at the factory. Given that, running higher octane won't make any difference. The trucks are set to run on the lowest common grade sold. The computer and knock sensors will adjust (add more advance) if you experience knock (autodetonation) with 87 octain. As octane prevents ignition of fuel and the release of BTU's is the same for 93 as it is for 87, unless you reprogram your chip, running higher octane is truly a waste of money.
    If anyone is looking for true bolt on performance enhancement, find anything that improves volumetric efficiency. The K&N filter kits are a good example. Blowers and turbos act in a similar way, but without getting technical, are not the same and require more modifications to the system.
    Using +4 spark plugs are good if you increase the watts (current and/or voltage Ohm's Law and all aside) of energy to the plug. Otherwise you are just splitting the availble energy into four 1/4 charge "bolts" (and that's assuming all four points take a hit at the same time). The +4 plugs are good at getting you to spend more money than you need to and do usually ensure that, even with severe fouling, there is at least one contact with lower resistance than the other three. That is about the only advantage to having more than one electrode on your spark plug and may make them worth the extra $.
    I haven't purchased the shop manual yet and don't have a lot of specific techno data on the Silverado/Sierra. The stuff I'm pointing out is basic automotive engineering theory and first hand knowledge. If this causes more questions than I answered I'll dust off some of my reference books and revisit the Otto cycle with anyone interested in the nitty gritty. Be prepared to discuss such fun topics as top/bottom dead center, thermal propogation, PV=nrT, and three dimensional spark curves.

    Another $.02 worth,
    Phil
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    tex6tex6 Member Posts: 96
    You seem to be a bright young man and probably have checked, but for consideration: I thought I had a dash rattle, but found it was a plastic cup I had in the cup holder on the console. Hopefully, yours will be just as simple.
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    kissfan1969kissfan1969 Member Posts: 20
    I just did some searching on the net and came accross some interesting information about the new Ford trucks for 2001.They have heated bumpers.Why?So you won't get your hands cold when your pushing 'em this winter!!!
    I know it was bad! (From a former Silverado owner who now drives a Y2K Monte SS)
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    No its the dash not the cup holder. I know exactly where its coming from. I can push on the spot when it starts to rattle nd itll go away till it comes loose again. I think im bright enough to know where a rattle is coming from.

    Ryan
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    mgdvhmanmgdvhman Member Posts: 4,157
    Phil...if it adjusts if pinging does happen..you lose power though..

    ..heated bumpers?....for what?....I guess the push theory is why then?/

    LOL

    - Tim
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Just found out the scoop. Hot off the presses

    I was just told the 2 tone paint for the silverados is on constraint till expected availability November.

    Also composite boxes become available next month.

    I found out from my salesman Will. His dealership got a GM Administrative message whatever that is.

    Hope this helpos you guys out your salesman is definitly telling you the truth.

    Ryan
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Its 10pm go to your live chat thingy

    Ryan
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    steveguitarsteveguitar Member Posts: 12
    my 2000 silverado has a rattle in the dash but it is caused by a/c diffuser (vent). It only rattles or makes the noise on higher blower speeds. Is this possibly what your rattle is, ryanbab
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Mine only happens on bumps

    I know where and what the rattle is exactly down to the exact location. I rarely use the air or blower

    Ryan
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    just spray a little foam in the direction of the rattle. should do the trick... I think... ;)

    Dean
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    tapdtapd Member Posts: 19
    Just my opinion, but the tires being written about are mainly the size 235/75r15 on Ford Exploders...I mean Explorers. Tires on our '00 Chev are not that size. Firestone makes a fine tire. Yes I manage a dist whse that sells Firestone. The problem I believe will be found in a large part to the recommended air pressure for the Fords. 26 pounds psi all around. Here in the San Joaquin Valley in CA that is too low. All problems appear to come from the hotter climates. I will submit there is not a new vehicle built today that recommends 26psi. Why Explores, because yuppie soccer mom's wanted them to ride like a Toyota or Honda.
    So don't worry about Firestones on your new truck. I would worry about Generals.
    Bridgestone has a 30 day free ride, no mileage limit. Yes, people buy Mud Duelers for hunting season and then bring them back for AT tires under the 30 day trial.
    I'm done with my propaganda.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    You missed it your live chat was going good last night. There were 4 people there.

    Also quick question for anyone who knows.

    I was going to work and had the defoggers on (not rear just the regualar i dont have the rear ones) then i got warm so i turned on the a/c after 5 min it got to cold so i turned that off and hit the recirc (2nd button) button. Ok this is where it gets good. It flashed 3 times then stopped. The vent (1st button) button stayed lit the whole time. Whats up with my recirc button? its flipping out haha

    Ryan
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    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    RTFM - You can't select recirc with the defrosters on.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    rtfm?

    I had the A/C on.

    It worked before

    Ryan
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    white6white6 Member Posts: 588
    steveguitar... Mine has the same rattle. Sounds like something flapping in the breeze of the a/c blower. My buddy closed the left passenger side vent, and it quit. Complained to the dealer on one of my several visits. They replaced THE BLOWER MOTOR! Did absolutely nothing to fix the problem. Amazing. They are batting 1000; haven't fixed a single thing, so far. I have stopped worrying about this problem, though, since they are probably going to have to do a buy-back on my truck.
    Ryan... My truck had a rattle in the dash when I picked it up new at the dealer. Since I was still on my "test drive," the salesman was in the truck with me and we immediately whipped in to the service department. While sitting still, I could bump the dash with my fist (passenger side) and recreate the rattle. Well, we beat on the dash for a while to try to isolate the location, and after about five minutes, the rattle went away, never to return! Okay, I guess I lied. They have actually fixed something!
    VelvetRide Shackles Install... DO NOT DAMAGE THE LOWER BOLT! You have to use this to install the new shackles. Re-read the instructions. I promise, if you follow the instructions, it can be done. The height of your jack stands is semi-critical to taking the load off of the springs before removing the bolt. Mine happen to be just the right height; slipped right out. After the lower bolt is out you must lift the rear end assembly, along with the springs, up high enough to clear the frame, then the bolt will slip out.
    Sorry for the long post...
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    dustyonedustyone Member Posts: 262
    Thanks mledtje, quadrunner500, mgdvhman, werking for the help. Quadrunner500 and werking were right on the money. The trick (according to the owners manual-I'll have to start reading that thing) is that the truck must be in NEUTRAL to shift from from 2HI or 4HI to 4LO.
    Try this and hear the axles engage (while sitting still, engine off). With the ignition key in the run position and the shift lever in "neutral", switch between 2HI and 4LO. The 4LO lamp will blink, clunk, then stay lit. If the 4LO lamp blinks for 30 seconds, see your dealer for service (according to the manual).
    Thanks guys
    Dustyone
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    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    I'd hustle down to your local Firestone dealer if you have the Wilderness,.... or others covered by the recall.

    Apparently Bridgestone/Firestone will be very short on replacment tires by the end of the week.


    Phil (Sabot1) agree with most of your comments (my degree is ME with a focus on energy) but two things stand out for me
    1) I have experienced SEVERE, continuous ping, at WOT when running at full GCWR conditions using 87 octane.
    2) To get full benefit (horsepower or BSFC) from a give compression ratio, you need to match the octane with the ignition advance curve. Apparently, the engineers designed this family of engines to operate optimally with >= 91 octane, but they will tolerate (in most instances) lesser grades of octane.

    I still stand by my assertion that the marketing folks had the owner's manual changed to read 87 octane.

    PS. Last 450 mile refuel, fuel economy up ~10% using 92 octane but my fuel cost is actually up as premium is a 12.5% premium. Will keep yawl posted. Will be towing my 5,000lb trailer throughout the Rockies in a week and a half and would like the memory registers to contain info on only premium.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Recall only on P235's???

    Ryan
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    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    Don't think so. I'll check the website for Firestone.
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Someone in the thaoe topic said the recall only covers the P235 tires made in decatur i dont know if this is true thats why i had the ???


    Ryan
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    denn777denn777 Member Posts: 52
    I just returned from my dealership and they convinced me they're trying to do what's right.

    I called GM yesterday with order # and sure enough the truck had been ordered when they said. GM just stopped making them. It didn't matter if you were in the order line or not.

    My dealer has about 8 or so 2001's. Only 2 Z71's - both 2 tones but not what I can live with. They are going to try to locate me an acceptable truck this afternoon. There are a lot of 2001 trucks on the lots (many two tones) and if I were you I would go to a larger dealer and ask them to try to "locate" the truck you want. The larger dealer will have a better chance trading one of their trucks for the one you want at another dealers. It doesn't take them very long to search and see if any dealers in you region has something close to what you want.

    Like I said my dealer has 8 or so 2001's but none are setting on his main lot as he said he has too many 2000's he's trying to get rid of.

    We talked about getting black and painting lower pewter, but I don't think that would work as black truck has black trim. Two tone with pewter on bottom has pewter trim (I think).

    Anyway - that's the story for this day. I have the Zaino wax I have to buy a new truck.
    Denny
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR

    i really wanted some new tires. Guess ill have to live with these for a bit longer dammit

    Ryan
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    pathomppathomp Member Posts: 25
    One more question:
    When did you buy your Gibson catback? More importantly, when was it made? According to Chris at Gibson the first version they made for the 5.3L was not researched very well and was much louder than their current version. Just wondering (hoping) that could explain the excessive resonance you experienced.

    Paul
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    werkingwerking Member Posts: 431
    gents -
    just called my local firestone dealer. he said the oem p265's that came on silverados are NOT on recall. he did say though, that in accordance with GM and Firestone published statements, they will do a free-of-charge inspection of my tires. if anything is wrong with the tires they will replace them at pro-rated cost...i kinda hope there's something wrong with mine - i want an early swap for bf goodrich's or michelins.

    anybody have any pros or cons on various tires? i'm sticking with the 265's, not looking at 285's or anything...thanks...

    kyle
This discussion has been closed.