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Jeep Liberty: Steering Stability and Suspension

in Jeep
This topic covers any problems or concerns regarding the Liberty's suspension and steering systems.
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I just had a accident and it is because of I suddenly lost both my brake and steering function. I hit the front car by 25 mph. After the accident, I send my liberty to 3 different autoshop to do the inspection, but none of them can find a problem. I don't dare to drive this car again, because I don't know when will it happen again. Does anyone ever has this problem before? What should I do right now? Thanks!
Nervous in Denver
So, taken that you have to "rev" up the engine to 2500 rpm indicates that "at that point", sufficient pressure is achieved. Now, what about at idle? Are all belts tight? Changed the steering wheel pump? Is the pump damaged? What is the pumps pressure flow at idle? Is the system fouled with dirty fluid? What is causing the loss of pressure? Bad gaskets or seals? Loose hydraulic lines between the pump and steering gear? Visible sign of leaking fluid?
Once pressure is achieved at 2500 rpm, go back to idle and see how long pressure is maintained before steering failure. Keep a log of time (in seconds) so to tell the maintenance people.
I have seen where lubricants accidently get on the belt, which is counter productive, because the belt is suppose to be held tight to allow proper grip to rotate. Lubricants cause the belt to slip. Is fluid getting on the belt or pully system causing the belt to slip?
Were all these things checked?
I would take it back and have all those things checked and have all documentation written on paper that no problems were found, or if they did find something, indicate what was changed and why.
John
The feeling is like when you drive over a rail road track where the tires would wobble left and right and the steering wheel would turn left and right as well except that it's not bumpy like on a rail track. I didn't notice anything bumpy that woudl suggest something I drove over that would cause the wobble.
I was fortunate not to panic or I could have pulled the steering wheel hard which could have resulted in a rollover at that speed. I stopped and had it towed to my dealership.
Now, problem is they can't find anything wrong. They'll again take a look at it today. If they can't find anything wrong with it, how could anyone drive it again especially with a wife and kid inside?
Has anyone experienced this? Thanks.
As of yesterday, they tried to duplicate the problem and had it road tested. They were not able to duplicate the problem. They also told me that they can't find anything wrong. I don't know how much they checked though. I told them I won't mind them driving the jeep for 3 hours on the highway at 130 kph. That's because I'm not satisfied that a 10 or 20 minute road test is enough. If they have to drive the vehicle for 1 day at 130 kph I won't mind at all.
Aliens are out of equation. I didn't experience any missing time. ;-)
I had a similar problem that you described on a new car. My problem did not show up until I had several thousand miles on the tires. When I reached about 75mph, the right front tire [and the car] would start shaking violently... felt & sounded like the tire had come a part[or running over railroad tracks, as you described].I took the car to the dealership and they checked the front end out, including the tire, test drove & could not duplicate.
As soon as I left the dealership, I duplicated the problem at about 75mph. I went to a tire store & had them inspect the inside of the tire. They did not see a belt problem, but I replaced with a new tire. Problem solved. Apparently a belt was seperating at high speeds, and was not visable when static.
Getting rid of the piece of crap. To bad though, it was fun to drive.
Has anybody else out there experienced this?
Farout
Diesel Fuel costs about 1 EUR/liter, doesn´t matter if here in Czech, or in Austria or in Germany.
Now after installation of Powertrax locking unit in rear axle surprisingly I get only 9,5l/100 km on board computer - about 7,5% better!!! TracLok had to go out because of problems.
Finally received responce from Jeep. They will not reinburse me for my deductable nor my insurance company due to the failure of the "ball joints". If I had drove Interstae 75 home from work that day, I believe I would not be here! Sorry Sorry Jeep! Would not own another Jeep/Chrysler vehicle. You're lives are in danger!
I would encourage to not take no for an answer! What year was your Liberty and how many miles did it have, and what state do you live in? Maybe I can suggest something if you would like.
Farout
lhsmom
I like the CRD as much as any vehicle I have owned and it has exceeded my expectations in doing everything that I bought it for. But, the following has led me to the conclusion that my CRD is the last new DC product I will ever buy:
An engineer wrote, “The [ball joint] specifications were changed, the durability cycles were changed, as well as the loading factors, all downwards from standard JTE specs. This was to follow a directive to reduce cost of SUV parts, because, as so many people have noted here, SUV's aren't used offroad generally. The point is, the joints have a full lifetime as designed and predicted. The issue is not with the parts being poorly made, the issue is the wrong spec was used.”
This seems to have originated by an argument between the Executive Engineer (just below VP of Engineering) of Vehicle Development (who was an old Jeep guy) and Financial (which had the backing of Bob Eaton). The parts meet the specification, but the specification was changed to save money - as with Neon head gaskets, AC, and exhaust donuts.
From:
http://www.allpar.com/model/jeep/liberty-2005.html
Thanks, Steve
It's quite a cost savings for DC if they can nail you for $700 of unnecessary repairs while changing the lower ball joints. DC should not be able to profit from the lower ball joint design mistake.
Thanks
Jim
The car was making zero noises. Drove & steered fine. Reading some of these breaking ball joint stories really surprises me; I just did not realize the severity of the problem.
Sounds like you'd better get to the dealer ASAP.
Jim
Bad upper control arm bushings can make exactly the sound that you describe and if they are bad this condition is not immediately dangerous as it can take quite a while to wear to destruction. Upper ball joints and control arm bushings generally last a long time in this suspension configuration because the don't carry near as much load as the lower ball joints.
You need to inspect your lower ball joints ASAP because if they the cause of this noise you might not have much time before one or both if them pop and your Jeep drops to the ground. This is easy to do yourself but I don't have time to write the instructions.
Maximum allowable axial play is 1.5mm or about 1/16 inch.
And one other thing, if your upper bushing are gone and you have metal to metal contact the top of your tires should be leaning very noticeable inward. Stand far enough behind or in front of the vehicle to observe front and rear tires and compare vertical alignment. The top of the front tires should appear slightly out compared to the rear not in.
Stay safe.
Your dealer can tell you exactly what's been done to your car. They will run the VIN (vehicle identification number) through their (Chrysler's) computer system. Would take them a matter of minutes to do.
Steve
Jim
I also have a problem when driving foward and turning the wheel all the way to the left/right to make a turn. The car struggles to turn, as if the front wheels pivoting makes it diffucult for the car to move. The car almost stutter struggles (not an engine stutter) to make the turn when turning the wheel.
I thought this may be a lower ball joint problem, but the lower ball joint problem should not be applicable to the rear wheels of the car, but then again, the noise/stuttering only happens when I turn my steering wheel. Any hints?
I've tried to be specific as possible. Anyone out there have any ideas of what the problem is? Please help me.
I'm planning on going on a 13 hour road trip, but I might have to save that plan for later.
Thnx!
Over the last couple of days, I've notice some knocking noises and the "creaky spring" sounds described above.The lower ball joint was replaced under the recall in Feb '07.
Took the Jeep in to the dealer today. They heard the knocking too, and put it up on the lift, looked it over, but could find "no noticeable cause" for the knocking/squeaking noise. They tightened everything up, lowered it down, drove it around, but still heard the knocking.
A few hours later, the dealer called and said they discovered that the problem is the "lower control arm" and some bushings. "Actually, all of your control arms could stand to be replaced," he said. "The cost to replace this one alone will be $618, not counting tax."
I just want to know if this sounds right. The dealer charge of $420 for the part seems kind of steep for only one lower control arm (not both sides) compared to what the part is going for online. Plus, the ones I've seen online include the ball joint, but I don't need the ball joint!
One mechanic in town said it's very rare to have to replace the control arm. Do you think I could talk to my dealer about the possibility of just replacing the bushings? Or is it better to bite the bullet and do the whole thing. I need to make a decision in the a.m.! : )
Thanks.
According to your description I would also look at the silent blocks of the stabilizing bar. By lifting the truck from underneath the cabin (using a lift with 4 pads) and removing the front wheels, you can easily see what's wrong. It's trivial in this case.
Good luck
September 2006
Dealer Service Instructions for:
Safety Recall No. F23 -- Lower Ball Joints
Effective immediately, this recall (Safety Recall F23) cancels and supersedes Safety Recall C36 Lower Ball Joints. Please remove and discard from your files all copies of Safety Recall C36 (dated December 2003). All vehicles involved in Recall C36, whether completed or not, must have this recall performed.
Models
2002-2006 (KJ) Jeep(R) Liberty
NOTE: This recall applies only to the above vehicles built through March 15, 2006 (MDH 031510).