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Jeep Liberty Starting and Stalling Problems

245

Comments

  • Hi, did you ever get your grinding problem figured out? I am having the same difficulty and would like to hear more about your experience with this. Thanks!
  • Jeep Liberty 2002: On the first cold start of the morning, the engine fires and then there is a grinding noise that occurs while I am still turning the key. It is the exact same noise you get if you hold the key too long after the car has started. The colder it is, the worse it grinds. It seems to be correlated with the temperature (I never had the problem in the summer.) I live in MN and noticed it at temps 30-40 degrees F and lower. Also, if the engine is warm, it does not occur. If anyone has any advice or ideas on this issue, I would appreciate it. Thanks!
  • My wife and I bought a used 2002 Jeep Liberty Limited 4X4 from a used car dealer here in Erie, PA in July 2006. It is now Feb. 2007 and we are experiencing our first problems with the vehicle. Here's what has happened so far:

    Sunday - vehicle won't start. Lights and everything work fine, and starter is engaging, but the vehicle won't turn over. I tried to jump it with my Durango, but to no avail. I took the battery to local autozone and had them charge it. Put the battery in and the truck started right up. Two hour later though, it wouldn't start again and no prodding in the world could get it going.
    Monday - after work I picked up a new battery. Checked the truck to see if it would start first and got nothing on several attempts. Dropped the new battery (which has 710CCA as opposed to the stock 525CCA). Tried the truck and it started on the second try. Drove it to the used dealer we purchased it from (they have a really good service dept. that I trust). The service guy checked the wiring from batter to starter and said he couldn't find anything wrong. Vehicle started three times right away while there. He mentioned that we might have gotten water in the gas lines, so I swang by the parts store and grabbed some IsoDry and dropped it in the tank. Vehicle started right up twice more before I got back home.
    Tuesday - wife says the truck won't start again this morning, and I couldn't get it to start--even with pushing the gas pedal to the floor. Getting the same symptoms as Sunday.

    It has been very very cold here the last week (temperatures near zero!). Any suggestions? I'm contemplating the crank/camshaft position sensors at this point because that is the closest thing I can guess at. Could it just be a bad tank of gas that I am going to have to suffer through?
  • vinnimdvinnimd Posts: 2
    Well i am so glad that i found this forum and that i dont have to spend nearly a 1000 on getting these items fixed. Like all of you have described i have experiencing similar problems, tach jumping all over, the rear kicking, stalling, RPM's all over the place, the oil light comes on and it would shut off etc. Now after i let the engine sit for 1 minute or 2 it starts right up and away i go for about a 1 to 3 minutes than its back, and the same routine but sometimes i can get away with 10 minutes of driving with out any problems.

    Originally the system started when i went and got gas on a cold night, drove for 30 miles and perfect. Than after the car had sat for 3 hours, it started kicking, jumping, sniffling, and shutting down 2 times with the oil light coming on... and i couldnt get above 2000 RPM, or 35MPH to 45 MPH, but i got home. Than the next day nothing, no check engine light nothing of that sort and the problem is gone, yea right, it came back the next day. So its been going on a while and i finally took it to the dealer for a diagnosis, and this is what they told me.

    I almost forgot, i own an 03 Libby Renegade and i dont baby it, i tow with it, and off road with daily and monthly, afterall its a jeep!!!

    Below is the actual email from the dealer

    :confuse: the check engine light has 5 fault codes
    1. p1391 intermittant loss of crank or cam signal
    2. p0141 1/2 o2 sensor heater failure
    3. p0161 2/2 o2 sensor heater failure
    4. p0320 no crank reference signal at pcm
    5. engine speed sensor circuit

    to correct the check engine light we need to replace both the crank and cam sensors $310 and the two oxygen sensors $ 445 then reset the light and drive to make sure all the codes will clear the engine speed sensor circuit could be due to the fact the transmission is low on fluid-tech found the transmission pan gasket leaking--need to remove skid plate and reseal transmission pan $235 for the 80 k service: there are exterior light bulbs out $50, oil change due $35, and tech recommend to service battery terminals $65
    :confuse:

    any how i told them they are crazy... so i ordered the service manual from Chrysler, and once it gets here i will replace these sensors and give it a test drive...

    i will let you know how it goes.
  • jeepgrl02jeepgrl02 Posts: 1
    Hi JeepTech,

    My husband last night found out that the CPS Censor seems to need replacing in our 02 Jeep. Can you tell me, is this easy to replace or will it have to be done by the dealer?

    Thanks!!
    Liliana
  • mfitzykmfitzyk Posts: 6
    This in in reply to another post with similar question/problem:

    Member since: June 23, 2007
    Total points: 103 (Level 1)
    Points earned this week:
    --% Best answer

    mfitzyk
    S
    Same thing happened to us, except it did stall...several times in a 3-mile commute. This WAS on '04 Liberty with 48K on it. 1 week after driving it off the lot, began stalling. Dealer said not their problem - no warranty implied. My wife, a teacher, took it to her school auto shop class. They cleaned out the throttle body (for $7). If you take it to a dealer, they will hook it up to a machine and there will be a CAM sensor error - $150 to replace, or they will maybe clean out the throttle body for $65/hr if you ask them. There are countless forums on the the web about this problem with people replacing this part and other sensors and the Liberty continues to fail. Bottom line - sold the Jeep after 3 painful months, bought an '05 Explorer Limited V8, gets better gas mileage (16/22-24) compared to Jeep (12/16-18) and have never been happier. Oh yeah, transmission slipping on the Jeep too after shifting from reverse to drive, same thing on my friends '05 Grand Cherokee. Did not want to have to replace that because even though Jeeps powetrain warranty is transferrable (for $150), you cannot transfer it after the basic 36m/36K mile runs out, which is a scam and a sense of flase hope from Jeep that you are covered for 7y/70k miles. Hope this helps and you have better luck with your Jeep, but this is one product line I will never buy again (please don't get upset; I am not a Jeep-hater, and I'm sure someone has opinions/experiences with Fords - what I've driven: '93 F150 V6 Manual - no problems, replaced clutch, brakes, tires, one bed support in 107K miles, still ran great when I sold; '02 F150 Supercab XLT V6 manual - slave cylinder went out @ 28K miles, replaced by Ford no questions asked - even though 36 months bumper to bumper was up; Dad drives '02 Explorer with 90K - no problems).

    Source(s):

    http://www.carkb.com/uwe/forumpost.aspx?...

    http://cartalk.com/board/showflat.php?ca...

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/20...

    http://www.jeepkj.com/mobile/thread.php?...

    and the list goes on indefinitely...a major problem across the board for Jeeps
  • kim22kim22 Posts: 4
    Over the last two nightmare weeks my brand new (not even a yr old) Jeep Liberty decided it's randomly not going to start. I took it to two different dealers and neither one can figure out what is wrong. They checked the battery, alternator and computer system. No one can figure it out. I'm so scared to go anywhere because I never know if my car will turn back on once I turn it off.

    I have kept up with all standard maintenance (oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). I looked into what my rights are and although the car is not a year old it is over 18,000 miles so I would not even be able to build a lemon law case if needed as a last resort.

    I feel so helpless. I don't know where else to turn. Does anyone have any ideas/suggestions? What can be done?
  • billzollbillzoll Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty Sport. Exact same symptoms you describe has happened to me today. I'm on vacation and when I call the warranty guy he insists it's my battery. What's the latest with yours?
  • kim22kim22 Posts: 4
    Well, the latest with mine is that they still really do not know 100% what the problem is, but they decided to try replacing the battery and the belt tensioner to see if that solves it. They tested the alternator and it is fine, but feel that the belt tensioner might not have been adjusted properly and, therefore, the battery was not being charged. A few days have passed problem free. Hopefully this solved
    it.
  • calden1calden1 Posts: 1
    We have an 06 Liberty with the same problem. It has been brought to the shop twice for failure crank . Now the dealer is just changing out parts hoping he gets it right. Did you ever get your problem resolved? Ours only has about 15,000 miles on it and I share your pain.
  • kim22kim22 Posts: 4
    It is disturbing that so many other people are having this problem because it makes me think that there is some larger issue with the Jeep Liberty. Oh well, I guess time will tell. For now, my Jeep is working. It has been about a week since they replaced the battery and belt tensioner and so far, so good. However, my dealer used the same logic as your dealer. They were not sure that this was the problem, but thought that it might be. If anything else happens I’ll send an update. I hope others do the same and maybe we’ll get to the bottom of this.
  • Dear All,

    Wife came home this evening and Liberty will not start. There is a "strange" sound coming from the locking mechanism for the rear gate and window. It has a continous "click click click" like it is trying to unlock. Also, the rear light in the beack of the car on the inside goes on and of repeatedly. Nothing on the keyfob works - no door lock, unlock, security etc. When the doors are open, nothing works, it appears that there is no power at all.

    Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    You could check the battery connections first, then turn on the headlights and see how they glow. This will tell you the condition of the battery. If you still have the clicking sound disconnect the battery for a few minutes, reconnect and try again. This will check your ECU. Next step is to call a cab :sick:
  • Hey Everyone,I am a mechanic at Cino Auto Repair in Stoney Creek. I had quite a time figuring out this p0320. I went through the diagnostics and it told me to change the Crank Sensor. I did that The Jeep ran great for about 20 Minutes and began to stall again. The Jeep also ran like a bag.. I then proceeded to change the cam sensor no change... I tried rewiring the sensors... nothing I then tried dropping the exhaust behind the y-pipe no luck... I thought for sure it had to be the computer but before that I thought I would try one more thing. I dropped the front two cats off the manifold sure enough that was the problem... The front two cats were plugged. Nicely they are still under warranty
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That is nice to know - thanks!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Please see original post #57...try cleaning the throttle body first before you do anything. I know it seems like a rudimentary fix, but instead of throwing hundreds of $'s at this problem (which is not all that uncommon based upon other forums where people have gone to extremes to fix this problem - see links on #57) I would opt to try the $7 fix first. ALthough we no longer have the Jeep (royally frustrated, had to sell), the next few weeks we had it, it never stalled after cleaning the throttle body.
    You see, every time your vehicle stalls in this new age of computerized vehicles, it throws all of these "fault codes". The engine stops prematurely, and the CAM/Crank sensors fire because this is not natural for an engine to do this. You take it to a dealer, they hook it up to a machine and say, "well, we see that error code p0320 has registered, must be your Cam/Crank/etc sensor." Then, you start throwing money into replacing things that don't fix the problem. Next time it stalls you'll get the same or another error code all because your throttle body is dirty, less air gets through and your Jeep stalls. This is partly due to higher emissions standards since some of the exhaust, full of carbon deposits, is directing back through your throttle body to be reburned. These deposits build up, limiting air flow, and the Jeep stalls out. If it was a Cam/Crank/etc sensor, how come this only happens when you are stopped/idling? I think that if the sensor was bad, this would happen while driving at higher speeds (although in other forums this has happened as well). It also makes sense that this does not typically happen at higher speeds because more air if flowing around the engine thru the air filter and into your intake. This was something that a high school auto tech program was able to diagnose/fix. The teacher was a former Ford master-tech, and was willing to replace the $75-100ish sensors at cost (i.e. no labor - since my wife taught there), but first opted to do the minimal/cheapest fix first (clean out the throttle body), which ultimately worked, at least for the next few weeks we owned it.
    Dealers and garages get paid more to fix the more complicated items based on a standardized chart. Cam sensor = 2 hours labor (probably takes them 20 minutes + 10 minute test drive) which = more money, let alone the mark-up on the parts. The guy we went to gets paid a flat salary to teach high school students in their auto-tech program. Cleaning the throttle body is probably less than 1 hour and something that, if you have the tools and have minimal auto repair skills, you could probably do on your own. Disconnect the air intake, remove the throttle body, spray with cleaner from Autozone/NAPA/Advance Auto Part or wherever ($7) and put back together. This mechanic said that our throttle body was filthy @ 50K miles.
    I must admit though, we did sell the Jeep after only a few more weeks/months of this fix, but it never stalled after that (prior to this it was almost a daily occurance). Replacing sensors, computers, wiring, other major components will make NO difference if the vehicle is not getting the air it needs. The only thing I found wierd about this was that I drove a truck 107K miles and never had this problem, but that it does seem to be a common theme amongst Jeeps, particularly the Liberty. Perhaps poor design on Jeeps part in the older Liberty's. Don't know how the new ones drive, and probably never will, but maybe they fixed the problem now that they have a new "Unlimited" powertrain warranty (that I'm sure is not transferrablee after 3y/36k is up, and even more likely will be denied if on one occassion you went >3K miles before an oil change, or can't provide "documentation" of maintainnance) - should be on them to fix this now instead of the consumer. Hope this helps
  • HEY! We just had this problem yesterday. EXACT problem. Did you ever figure out what it was from?
  • I am having the SAME problem! (2006 Jeep Liberty Diesel <23K miles)

    I am a single mom and this is the LAST thing I need! :(

    I just ran to the store (a little more than across the street from where I live) and it stalled once going over there and about 3 or 4 times coming back. It acted like it was getting no fuel whatsoever. When it would start back up, it would NOT move. I took it to the dealer a couple weeks ago because I had another recall on it. When I got there, they said there were actually THREE more recalls. They said (one of them) should fix my "problem". Well, obviously it didn't.

    PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • Hey, man...I got the stalling problem. It's been in the shop for three weeks. They wanna replace all three Catalytic converters. I'm thinkin I can do that myself. Did replacing the cats work out for you in the end? They already replaced the p0320 thingy....speed sensor. Nothing, I havn't even had it three months.(03' 85,000)

    Hrlp a brotha out!
  • sektorsektor Posts: 1
    I had the same problem a couple of months ago and I believe it turned out to be the solenoid that releases the real glass. Apparently its either damaged or just worn out to the point that it was causing a constant 12 volt draw which ravaged the battery to the point of no recovery, on top of that I think my radio got damaged because it power cycles just about every 30 secods, I don't loose any settings or the clock but if I am playing a cd the whole cd will start over from the beginning. That problem actually happened to me twice I have an 02 liberty sport.
  • I had the same problem, the dign test came back and said it was the speed sensor so I replaced it and the problem still there. My check engine, ebrake, and anti-lock brake lights are on. Has anybody solved this problem yet?
  • xtecxtec Posts: 354
    If you already had the code read and it said to replace the sensor,you either have to clear the code,or after so many starts or miles your light should go out.
  • Hi rich14. Did you every find out what was wrong with your Liberty? re: I'm having the same exact problem.

    Thanks
  • rich14: Any answers yet. I have a jeep liberty did the same thing to me stalled going down the road and the tach went crazy. I didn't have the smoke or gas smell. but had the other symptoms. :confuse:
  • I bought a 2007 Liberty, just had it less than 2 weeks, it was a 3 month corporate lease. So I did buy it used, about 5K miles on it now. Been running ok so far, except for below issues. Any suggestions.
    1. Today, backing into my parking space it stalled? Started up fine and ran fine, so I shut it down and came into work.

    2. At times I feel a slip, especially when I decend on a road with a slow grade, wasn't sure if it was just the automatic, I don't normally drive automatics, and its been long time since I drove a 4wheel/Rear wheel car. Feels like the tranny or rear end is in spin up, then grabs slightly, kind like when you coast down a hill in a manual shift then let the clutch pedal out.

    The deal said it's still under the 3/36K warranty, and I was actually thinking of buy the extended before I hit the 12K to avoid additional charges.

    Any ideas on this transmission feel, or the stalling out when backing up?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I own a 2003 Jeep Liberty that has recently began stalling when I stop. The check engine light does not come on. Did anyone ever figure out why this is happening?
  • scp301scp301 Posts: 2
    I own a 2003 Jeep Liberty Renegade with 78000 miles. I recently encountered the same stalling problem that most people seem to be having in here. After about 10-20 minutes of running the engine would stall out. This would happen whenever I slowed to a stop or the engine idled. The engine light turned on and I got the code p0320. After reviewing all of the posts in this forum I decided to try a couple things before taking it in. I cleaned out the throttle body with a carb cleaner. It was really easy to do. I just took off the air duct to the throttle intake, opened up the throttle and sprayed down the inside walls of the body with the cleaner a few times. I also replaced both the cam and crank position sensors. They're pretty easy to replace if you know where they are and only cost about $20 a piece at autozone. Although, it took me a while to get the old crank sensor out. It was a bit corroded, which caused it to seize up. In any case, I'm on day two and the jeep seems to be running fine. I live in chicago and have about a 35 mile commute with plenty of stops every day, so if the problem still existed I'm sure I would have encountered it by now. Oh and the check engine light turned off after the first day of driving. Unfortunately, I did a couple of things at once, so I can't tell you which one actually fixed the stalling. I would definitely recommend cleaning out the throttle body first before replacing the sensors. Mine was filthy. To make a long story short, by trying a couple fixes on my own I saved myself at least a couple hundred dollars the dealer would have charged me for the same work. Hope this helps anyone else with this frustrating problem.
  • kim22kim22 Posts: 4
    My advice to anyone owning a Jeep Liberty - get rid of it - just take the loss and trade it in for anything but a Jeep. I did. I had purchased a brand new 2006 Jeep Liberty (which I had wanted for some time) and it was a 2 year nightmare. Every month something went wrong with it in addition to the starting/stalling or just not starting at all issue.
  • nikjeepnikjeep Posts: 1
    Im having trouble with finding the crankshaft sensor can any of you tell me where its located on the jeep liberty?
  • scp301scp301 Posts: 2
    It's on the bottom side of the engine. You can't see it from the top side when you open the hood. You have to get below the car to access it. I reached it by sliding under the car from behind the right front tire. Facing front, it's on the bottom right side towards the rear of the engine.
  • ervinoervino Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem on my 03 Liberty. It just died and would not start. After many days, they determined a faulty crank sensor burned out all coils. They replaced the sensor and six coils and seems to be fine.
  • ghardy19ghardy19 Posts: 2
    I use my Jeep to deliver News paper where I live every day for the last two years (about 115 miles a day) and never had a problem until the 12th of this month then halfway through the route the Jeep just died. The first couple of times it started right up and I was able to drive a few miles but after a while it would stall and it was harder to start and I could drive only a few hundred feet and stop. I noticed the tach would do it's little dance. One time it went to 7grand and I had no power. It took me about 3hours to drive 20 miles home. I let it sit for about a hour and it started right up but ran rough, black smoke was comming out of the tail pipe and you could smell gas.. Used a hand scanner on it and found a code p0725. (Engine speed sensor malfunction) Monday I brought it to a Dealership and they told me I needed a PCM and Cam & Crackshaft sensor. The cost almost $1800.00. I read this forum the night before and knew most likely the PCM was good and they justed wanted to make money off me. I told them to get bent and brought to a local garage and ask them to replace my cam and crankshaft sensor. It took them 30 min. and it was running like a champ. They were not sure if it was going to work but after a week and almost 1000 miles I have not had a problem. I almost forgot I have 128,000 on my jeep and still going strong. :shades:
  • seven15seven15 Posts: 1
    hi my name is shonn and i have a question for you.i have a 99 jeep cherokee.a code came up,p1391.its getting spark,and its getting fuel too.i need to know do the tone wheel have anything to do with it? :mad:
  • rashawrashaw Posts: 2
    We recently had similar behavior. There is another post on this site that explains the issue and the fix. That post stated he replaced the cam shaft position sensor and the crank shaft position sensor and cleaned the throttle body. That trio cured the problem but he wasn't sure which one. I replaced the cam shaft position sensor today on ours and that did NOT cure the problem. I therefore believe that it is most probably the crank shaft sensor that needs to be replaced. That is my next move once the stores are open again after Memorial Day. So, have someone change that sensor, it's a key input to the "computer" that controls the engine and much else. I replaced the cam shaft sensor myself, $38 for the sensor. Not sure but should be about the same for the crank shaft sensor. Good luck.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    That code (p1391) was discussed here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f7762/13

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mfitzykmfitzyk Posts: 6
    You can replace the cam sensor, crank sensor and every other sensor on the jeep and it will probably still stall. Clean the throttle body, a $7 can of cleaner beats paying $38 for sensors that will (as you mentioned) NOT fix the problem. When the engine stalls unexpectantly (i.e. from not getting enough air/fuel through the throttle body) the sensors involved in the engine turning (i.e. cam/crank) enter an error code. That is what is showing up on your p-whatever code. You can continue to replace sensors until you are blue in the face or you have invested more money than the jeep is worth and chances are it will still not run. Less is more, try the $7 option before you dump another $38 and an equal amount of frustration into it.
  • rashawrashaw Posts: 2
    After replacing cam shaft sensor, which did not fix the stalling issue, I replaced the crankshaft sensor (just above the passenger side CV joint) for $28 and that one did correct the problem. As long as you can get under the vehicle, safely, it's one cap screw that can be pulled with a ratchet and a 12 mm socket, one electrical connector. Haven't gotten to spraying the throttle body yet, does not appear to be an issue based on how it's running.
  • jhaddockjhaddock Posts: 1
    my 02 jeep liberty is having a huge problem the mechanic after two days has determined that he CANT FIND THE PROBLEM!! but he does see the problem, the problem with my liberty is...

    after around 20 minutes of driving it wont drive anymore when you press the gas it just wont go!, the power stays on it jerks then shuts down.. when you watch the RPM the do a dance back and fourth.. I can restart it only one time : buy raving the gas then it will only go about another 2 minutes before it wont even click to start.. i know its not the battery b/c all the power stays on but the engine wont start.. i replaced the crank sensor like most have and it still does not fix it... can someone please tell me anything else i should try that will not cost me thousands my liberty has 182,000 so its not worth it to spend thousands to fix the problem if that the case... my boyfriend is all over me about figuring out the problem so i need to so it ASAP>> PLEASE HELP WITH INFO AND IDEAS
  • jkelly2jkelly2 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 liberty that won't start. It started just once about a month ago, after messing around with the gear shift, I got it going. Last week after filling it up with gas, it wouldn't start at all. We tried over and over. It ended up getting towed. It still wouldn't start at the shop. However, they now cannot determine what is wrong with it because sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. It is still there, and I am looking for any clues as to what may be wrong with it! PLEASE HELP! Thanks
  • rich14rich14 Posts: 15
    it was the cap position sensor
  • matrix2matrix2 Posts: 3
    i have a 2002 jeep liberty. i just replaced my battery yet is still stalls and shuts off on my while driving, also the obd light has come on again. and now my locks will not lock when i drive off like they are supposed to. any ideas.
  • francesmfrancesm Posts: 3
    My 2004 Jeep Liberty with only 10,000 miles just suddenly refused to start after being fine a few minutes
    before. I had it towed to the dealer and after three weeks of what I think was trial and error I finally have it back and it seems to be fine. They replaced the fuel pump, computer, fuel injector and then a second fuel pump saying the first one was defective. I had puchased
    the extended warranty when I bought the car so I incurred no expense except the $100 deductible. My advice would be to anyone purchasing a car these days is to bite the bullet and buy the extended warranty. Mine included rental for five days and the dealer paid for the remainder time. I shutter to think what this three week repair job would have cost me. By the way, this is the first problem I have had with the Liberty and I really do enjoy driving it.
  • My son, our neighbor [who was the chief or head machanic for a John Deer dealer] and I have been working with biodeasel and use motor oil for over a year and a half having much success in saving on fuel expenses. I bought a Jeep Liberty Limited 2005 model with CRD last September and have used our processed oil [cleansed with a center fuse] with limited sucess in the Jeep diesel. When the fuel water filter gets 5,000 miles it must be changede or the diesel stalls and will not start. Now after sucessfuly running 10 galons of our cleaned oil on the next 10 gallions the moter is stalling. To start the diesel you must turn the switch off then back on and the motor will start. This means you can see the RPM drop on stalling ,<img src="move the transmission to Neutral, switch ignetion switch off, then on, and start the engine switch transmission to drive and excelerat slowly and keep th Jeep running or/and moving.
    We experenced similar condition with a Ford250 pick up we own and found the cam locating sensor needed replacing.
    To my Knowledge the CRD has no such sensor. The CRD acts as if it is not getting fuel. Could the Comon rail not be pulling or have enough suction to move fuel through the fuel filter? Could a small fuel pump help?
    Has aneyone had this problem? Jon D
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    One obvious diagnostic would be to run straight diesel fuel in the truck and see how it behaves, or perhaps pump biodiesel might be another good experiment.
  • Yes! the jeep Liberty '05 runs very well on store bought diesel fuel. This must be because it was designed to do so. The problem is that it stalls on centefuse cleaned oil that it and other diesels are running on. Could the common rail not create enough suction to pull fuel through the fuel filter? Could installing an auxellery fuel pump solve this problem? Is there a fuel filter that would let more fuel get to the motor? I am open to any suggestion. Yes another expert said I could trade to get another diesel.
  • I've been reading about the problems others are having with their liberties. With mine the same problem happens. We just went on vacation and the jeep sat for 6 days. When we came back and tried to go shopping as soon as the jeep reached operating temp, it bogged out and the RPM's won't go over 2000 without the jeep chugging and can't travel over 30mph. My husband has used carb cleaner which was a temporary quick fix. He has replaced one of the oxygen sensors and just today replaced the throttle control sensor. No dice. still the problem remains. Anyone know why this is happening when the vehicle sits too long or is that just coinsidence. This is very frustrating.
    thanks
  • First: Has your fuel filter been changed recently? If not DO SO!
    Blwing the nose of the CRD.
    Take your Jeep out on the High WAy where you can go fast. From a slow speed excellerat as quickly as possible . You should see a clowd of black exoust. Afetr several axcellerations the black shouldc go away or turn white. This is a fix.
    Get some biodiesel it will help. This works fore me. Pardon the sloppy message as I must hurry to work.jdh;-) :)
  • i'm having that sam problem where after around 20 minutes of driving it wont drive anymore when you press the gas it just wont go!, the power stays on it jerks then shuts down.. when you watch the RPM the do a dance back and fourth.. I can restart it only one time : buy raving the gas then it will only go about another 2 minutes before it wont even click to start.. i know its not the crank sensor because it has been replaced, the battery has been replaced also, injectors have been cleaned, carberator flushed i'm still at a loss. PLEASE HELP!!!
  • We owned a 2005 Jeep Liberty for about 3 months before getting so frustrated we traded it in. There was ~50K miles on it, same problem. On a 2-3 mile trip the Jeep would stall out. Would have to restart it, would sputter, sluggish acceleration, stall. The dealer we bought it from was a crook, so we took it to the school's auto shop that my wife was teaching at. Instead of replacing cam/crank sensors, which is what the error codes stated had faulted the engine, the master tech @ the school suggested cleaning out the throttle body first. For a $7 can of throttle body cleaner, the problem was solved. Obviously labor was not included as this was a school run program, but this seemed to fix the problem. If you read up on this, it should be something you can do on your own. For the next couple of weeks we had the Jeep, it no longer stalled, which was previously a daily/multiple times per day phenomenon. Ultimately we sold the Jeep (have never been happier with our new Explorer). The way the mechanic explained it to us, because of new emission standards, some of the exhaust is brought back through the intake/throttle body apparatus leading to heavy carbon deposition (our throttle body was heavily carbonized), which leads to decreased air/gas delivery to the engine causing it to stall out. This should not happen @ highway speeds because of the higher RPM's and inertia of the engine and relatively lower gas/oxygen demands. If you think about it, engines require more fuel/oxygen during high demand..i.e acceleration. Your engine is not going over 2000 RPM because there is not enough fuel/oxygen getting delivered to the cylinders for adequate combustion. The symptoms are worse when the engine heats up because as the air gets hotter it is less dense meaning there is less oxygen to help burn the fuel again causing stalling/sputtering/sluggishness. I would do one of two things:

    1. Clean the throttle body or better yet -
    2. Sell the Jeep
  • Thanks for your input on the Jeep stalling problem. My husband and I viewed the many suggestions people sent in. 2 years ago he tried spraying carb cleaner into the throttle body intake. it was a quick fix but short lived. As soon as we went on vacation last year and the Jeep sat idle for a week we had the same problem. So he went with the quick fix again. It ran great. This year after vacation; same problem, only this time there was no fixing it, so this time he thought it might be the throttle position sensor because our other Jeep had that problem. Unfortunately it didn't help, so I found this forum and showed him some of the entries. After reading yours he took the Jeep to our mechanic and he hooked up his hand held computer and it displayed the message crank shaft speed sensor. We ordered the part and had him install it. That was about 2 weeks ago and so far not a problem. It's running great. So if anyone out there is having these problems with their Liberty stalling it may be that sensor.
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