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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • it quite immediatly, has to sit for 5-10 minutes before it starts again. it does not spit and sputter at all.

    i'll check out the other forum. thanks!
  • ohno2ohno2 Posts: 9
    Thanks,I'll Mention it. I just took the Jeep to another place:)
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Don't forget to check back here to let us know what happened!

    tidester, host
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    if it is a crank shaft sensor ti is right above the starter looks like held in with one bolt might be a bear to change with out removing the starter
  • I also have a 96 jeep grand cherokee that shuts off while driving , sometimes it dies and i can restart it. i had an o2 sensor put in , then it then a computer. it still dies, sometimes it feels like it is running out of gas. today it is completely dead won't turn over at all, but the battery is good.i have had it in the shop at least ten times since may, and they don't know what it is. any suggestions??
  • did you ever get your jeep fixed? if so what was it?
  • will that be the alternator effect the computer or you have any manufacture security system to shut off the power. It may try to unplug the battery or try turn your key from the driver door key hole three times to reset.( I don´t remember lock or unlock side.) just try no cost. hope yo can find out the problem. Good Luck
  • ohno2ohno2 Posts: 9
    Ok...Well, The "second" Technician said that he drove the Jeep to his job and home for 3 days this week and he said everything looks fine. He said he checked the computer due to incorrect codes and thats fine. So, I am hoping when I pick up the Jeep it will be kind to me too! If not, I give up on the Jeep. Thanks for your advise. I wish I had the answer to the problem. Back to square one :confuse:
  • I have been having the same problems lately with my 96 Cherokee. After lots of forum searching and talking to Jeep parts and services I have come to find out that usually a few problems can cause the engine to shut off completely when it falls below 1000 RPM while driving, or not to start at all in the first place unless you hold your foot down a little bit on the gas.
    (1) The causes of the problem in most cases is the crankshaft position sensor. This is about a $60 part at autozone and can be replaced with a little bit of time. It is located on the driver's side bell housing of your transmission. Although this did not fix the problem with my car, out of all of the info I have read so far this worked in most cases. You can test this sensor as explained here:
    (2) The second thing I would try is checking the camshaft sensor. This is extremely easy to replace and is located under the rotor of the distributor cap.This has supposedly fixed this problem in a few cases also. This sensor can also be tested before buying the part (see
    (3) I ran across a well-hidden message on the web last night as I was looking once again for the cause of the problem and found that faulty wiring in the door wiring harness may be the cause of the problem (see If you notice that your door locks don't work as well as they should, this is most likely the case of the problem.
    (4) Fuel is not getting to the engine - test your fuel pump to see if this is the cause of the problem, though in most cases it would be the previous problems mentioned.

    I'll keep you all posted as to what exactly was the cause of my problem.

  • I have a problem with my 97 jeep grand cherokee tsi. while driving it shuts off. I have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor , the ignition coil 2 times, the sparkplugs, the fuel pump and filter, the air filter,the cap & rotor, the sparkplug wires and it still keeps shutting off. While checking the ignition coil for spark, I noticed that it has a very poor spark and sometimes none at all.I took the vehicle to a mechanic and he advised me that he repaired the wiring harness to the ignition coil. It still shuts off while driving. can anyone help?
  • my truck only has 14,000 miles but it out of warrenty. it just started running real rough, basically only working on 3 cylinders, but all 6 have spark, gas, and compression. it makes no sense, but the dealer cant even figure it out. they want to charge me $500.00 just to look at it, and thats not gaurenteed for them to find the problem. i cleand out the gas tank, replaced the computer, and even the spark plugs.still only runs off of 3 cylinderys 2 on one side and one on the other.please if anyone knows anything about this situation, please reply so you can help me out.
  • I am having the same problem with a 95 Dodge Caravan. It just turns off while I'm going under 10 mph. Mechanic does not have any suggestions. Help.
  • Did you try to check the fuel injection system.
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the PCM (powertrain control module). You have addressed the likely lower cost items first which is always smart. My PCM ran about $250.00 rebuilt with the old core. It came with a 1 year warranty and was an easy fast repair.
  • jeepmamijeepmami Posts: 1
    i was having that exact same problem with my '96 JGC and it wound up being the oxygen and camshaft sensors. have them cehck it out just in case that's what it is.

    since it's been fixed though, i am having problems iwth it jerking off and on. not sure if the problem is related but it's an issue. since getting the sensors replaced, it's not shutting off anymore though.
  • ohno2ohno2 Posts: 9
    Hi, My jeep shut off again while I was driving. I called the tech again and he said he would get a part "camshaft sensor" but it will be about $500. and it my not fix the problem. I cannot invest anymore money into this Jeep. I have no choice but to sell it. My question is, what is the best way to sell it as is? Its in mint condition and has low mileage. Any advice? Thanks :cry:
  • lvgm250lvgm250 Posts: 2
    The camshaft sensor is what my dealer told me also and I haven't replaced it yet but I called Autozone and they have the camshaft position sensor for $39.99 and you can replace it yourself. It is under your distributor cap housing and is simply a matter of unpluging and replacing. I don't know what the freaking $500 is about. That's horrible.
  • ohno2ohno2 Posts: 9
    oh My....I will have to try this. Thanks so much! Now, I just have to find the darn distributor cap housing. LOL. Autozone here I come!!! Well, thats another Mechanic on my you know what list.
  • oneofemoneofem Posts: 3
    On my wife's 2000 Grand Cherokee, the ignition key won't turn in either direction. After she found the key wouldn't turn, she turned the steering wheel to see if the steering wheel lock was putting pressure on the switch, and the lock engaged when she turned it.

    I've tried rocking the car to see if the problem was the parking lock (as suggested elsewhere in this forum), but that didn't help.

    Is it likely the key cylinder itself?
  • oneofemoneofem Posts: 3
    Found the solution on another forum.

    This cylinder has a tendency to have sticking tumblers. As suggested, I inserted the key and lightly tapped it with the handle of a screwdriver. Started right up. I gave it a shot of graphite and will take it by a locksmith later this week.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Thanks for sharing!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • charity3charity3 Posts: 2
    after checking all your normal sensors and you still hava the same problem it will be a ground in your wiring harness start checking oxygen sensor wires on drivers side of engine good luck
  • jlowasjlowas Posts: 1
    Have you replaced your ground cable yet and did that stop your problems. I have a 96 JGC and for a few weeks now I have had intermittent stalling while driving at various speeds. The other day it finally completely stalled while turning a corner. I've had the flickering dash lights for over a year now. Please let me know if your problem is gone. Thanks!
  • melina3melina3 Posts: 10
    i have replaced the ground cable that was non-existant, but it didn't help at all.
    my JGC stalls all the time, BUT only when it's cold outside....very strange. the interior lights still flicker, but i have figured out that is the switch.
    i have replaced soooo many things. even the fuel filter again, the ignition coil....etc. i am about ready to take it to the dealer and pay a ton.
    any other ideas out there???
  • I fixed my Jeep, which was having the same problem, by replacing the AIS motor on the back side of the throttle body. The part cost about $85.00 from the dealer and took me about three minutes to switch out. The dealer wanted $800.00 to fix the problem. I hope this helps you out.

    Good luck!
  • 1spwcman1spwcman Posts: 3
    Cold condition idle problem only: All problems exist during first 5 minutes of operation. It stalls at low idle conditions. I have already changed out the idle air control valve and fuel filter, searched for vacuum leaks, and replaced plugs and plug wires. In my research on several forums as well discussing with several mechanic friends, I have a list of possible fixes but need help determining the best plan of attack specific to cold idle problem only. Here’s my list, I need advice on sequence and possibly the logic behind you sequence.
    • Camshaft position sensor – I list it first because it once showed this error code while at auto zone. Their reader had zero code for 4 of the 5 reads. I have had a cold engine reading yet. Engine always warn by the time I get to autozone.
    • Crankshaft position sensor
    • Throttle position sensor
    • Evaporative emission control system filter/solenoid
    • Manifold absolute pressure sensor problem, possible dirty mass flow sensor
    • Low voltage at PCM
    • The PCM itself
    • Erratic fuel pump
  • 1spwcman1spwcman Posts: 3
    what is an ais motor on back of throttle body SEE mesage 54 of 54
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    bet it a iac moter (idle air control motor mounted to the side of throttle body
  • tonkadogtonkadog Posts: 6
    2000 Grand Cherokee just shuts down while turning. So far it has only shut down when making a right turn and it doesn't matter if it is cold or has been driven for miles there is no consistency to when it will just quit. There is not any code thrown so nothing to retrieve with the scanner so far. Also it has only shut down in a slow turn. Engine is a 4.0L inline 6 and there is not a factory installed alarm system just the remote door locks.
    I have seen the solutions for the stalling and quits discussions and hate to replace $100's worth of parts before I get the right one sometime. Does anyone know what the bottom line part to replace is without going through the half dozen or so sensors? I figure the PCM would be the ultimate part to replace but what about the loose connector going to it if there is one, wiggled them but they could have a loose wire inside I don't know.
    Yeah I have a Haynes manual before someone asks that and I can find my way around an engine.
    Thanks for help. Any past experiences would be appreciated and I really do want to know what you did to solve your problem.
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