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Jeep Grand Cherokee Start Stall Idle Problems



  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    I had a similar problem although it was not affected by turning. The Jeep would either just turn off or would go into a "stumble mode" where it would continue to run but without enough power to accelerate. It would always restart easily sometimes continuing to stumble and sometimes not. Replacing the crankshaft sensor did not do it in my case, I had to replace the PCM. This cost about $250 with the core trade in and only took about 15 minutes for me to do it in my driveway. Not cheap, but far from a financial disaster and I have had no problems since.
  • tonkadogtonkadog Posts: 6
    Thanks a lot for your quick reply. I have been leaning toward doing that and I think I know the place online where the PCM can be sent and redone practicaly overnight for $250.
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Posts: 12
    My 05 has done this twice, but it was making a left turn both times. Any way to find out exactly what's causing this without taking it to the dealer, it's an overnight stay no matter what it goes in for, and I only have this vehicle running right now??? Thanks for any info on this.
  • tonkadogtonkadog Posts: 6
    To give an update on my daughter's 2000, she said it tried to stall out on her and had no power when she first started it and drove it yesterday. That is new.
    I am probably going to just go ahead and bite the bullet so to speak and replace the computer for somewhere in the $300 range. The vehicle has over 100 thousand miles and it is out of the year spread to be covered by the warranty on the computer.
    Now your vehicle on the other hand, probably still has a warranty on the computer unless you have more than 80,000 miles so you would probably be covered. The catch as always is to get them to admit its bad and replace it under warranty. An who knows it could be something else so you may want to keep looking at the other posts under stalling, etc. I spent several hours late one night looking through all the posts and taking notes for all the possible things that could be causing the quitting and boy there are a bunch. The closest thing to a bottom line thing that most all the people said they finally wound up replacing was the PCM or computer.
    I first thought it might be the ignition switch, but I wiggled the key while the engine was running and nothing happened. We have tried to get it to quit by driving in the driveway and making sharp turns but nothing happens.
    I know the one vehicle routine is not good, especially when that one vehicle is not up to snuff. Everything that could conceivably cause the engine to just quit are fairly easy to replace its just the cotton picking money that I don't like to throw away.
    Well I don't know if I have been any help but there are solutions out there it just takes time
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Posts: 12
    Thanks for the reply, I just found this site, so I'll go and explore a little before I take it in. Thanks again for the time and info. :D
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    One other thing I noticed on my Jeep was that as time went on the problem would occur more frequently and too a worse degree before I replaced the PCM. Good luck on yours.
  • 05jeepman05jeepman Posts: 12
    Thanks for the info, I wish now I would have thought about it when it was at the Dealer. Oh well, it's got less than 30k on it, so if it happens again, it's going back WITH this info to let them know I know what it is. Dealers around here want to act like everything that happens to the vehicle is my fault, and the thing still looks brand new. :confuse:
  • kparisokpariso Posts: 1
    My 96 J.C (auto 2-wd) stalls, occasionally backfires and sputters. When it dies, it sounds like a diesle engine, it makes awful noises. it seems to loose power like i am running out of gas or something.When it does die i usually smell unburned fuel.It mostly does it when i am @ a stop or slowly accelorating but sometimes it will do it while i am cruising on the highway. I have replace the cap and wires, the ignition coil, mapp sensor and a couple other small things. A few days ago i had a friend looking at it and he touched the wiring control harness and it died. He put some grease on it to open the connection and it was fine for a few days but now it is getting worse. Is this a major mechanical problem? I did have a code that said something about fuel injector 1 open circuit. I have to get this fixed, i am pregnant and getting stuck in the middle of the road.
  • raysnlamraysnlam Posts: 1
    When I go for local (stop-and-go) traffic, at Idle (foot on brakes like at stop light) the car will sometimes stall quietly. The car will restart without any strange sign. If I leave the car in Netural, it will sometime stall, too. When the car shift gears, it will shoke once like the engine is choking. At high speed though, everything runs smoothly.

    Pressure gauge reading varies between the middle and 3-quarter. Replaced Oil Pressure Gauge and Crankshaft Position Sensor. Also cleaned throttle chamber. None seems to fix the issue.

    Any idea?
  • Hi, I was towing my boat, stopped to get gas for my jeep & 15 minutes down the freeway, everythings shuts off, the car basically stalls. I was able to pull over to the side. I tried starting it and it just wouldn't start. Almost seemed out of gas (but I just filled the tank). Also, the gas gage showed empty. Strange, since I just filled. Tow truck driver tried jumping the battery to see if it would start (even though the battery worked fine) and it just wouldn't start. The engine turns over but it just start. It sounds like it wasnt to start, but it just acts like it is out of gas. Any ideas? I am really wanting to get it up and running! Thanks. it is a 5.8L/5.9L V8
  • dave257dave257 Posts: 1
    Just an additional thought for those suspecting that the Crankshaft Position Sensor is the culprit. I have found on more occasions than I like to remember, that you must check the wiring on the sensor all the way to the connection near the firewall. If the wire bundle that holds all the extra wiring length of the sensor comes loose or gets cut loose during maintenance, it is long enough to sag down and touch the exhaust, melting away the insulation, and shorting. It can even be intermittent, shorting out as the jeep warms up, and then opening after a period of cool down.
  • scott2000scott2000 Posts: 2
    I have a 98 gc and I'm having similar problems. I have a new crankshaft sensor, coil, plugs , wires, fuel pump, filter. Still shuts down while idling, and wants to shut down while driving. I had my harmonic balancer replaced and started having these problems. I seem to fix the problem when I tighten my drive belt but it will still act up . I am suspect of the pullies being offline because of the work I had done but, all the mechanics say it looks fine. I had my truck at the dealership for a week and it stalled when I got it home. I loosened my drivebelt and the problem was very present. I tightened it and, it went away. I'm going to take it back to jeep tomorrow and I'll find out more. This stinks and I figured I'd share my experience that I'm having. Love my truck though.
  • jeeper6jeeper6 Posts: 2
    Scott and all you other folks out there having this problem:

    I had previously posted in this forum having a similar problem of my 96 xj cherokee shutting off near low idle. I finally fixed the problem recently and it turned out to be a bad distributor. The post of the distributor was very loose and had a lot of play. Check this on yours be removing the distributor cap and wiggling the post coming out of the distributor. If it has any play side-to-side at all, it needs to be replaced (I paid $60 at autozone). It's a tough install though - make sure your teeth are lined up the same way as the old one when you put the new one in or your engine won't fire right. suggest having a professional do this one if you are not comfortable doing these kinds of fixes.

    hope this helps. cheers!
  • I just bought a 96 jeep cherokee (4.oL, auto w/232k mls) 2 days ago. It checked out ok on test drives but after getting it home its since failed. There were serious wiring problems with the previous owner hot wiring a kicker and amp directly to the battery. I pulled out all the wires, rewired the radio harness with plugs rather then the spit and glue he used. Cleaned the battery posts from all the corrosion his wiring job did. The next day it started and stalled right away once I took my foot off the gas. It will turn over but just dies when it goes down to idle. Any ideas???
  • xscoutxscout Posts: 141
    Make sure the alarm is not set. If it is on, it will allow a start followed by an immediate stall. Use your remote to make sure it is off. If that doesn't help, try disconnecting and connecting the battery again. I'm sure others will have some other ideas.
  • mpzanottompzanotto Posts: 6
    I just bought a 2000 Grand Cherokke Laredo, it's a 6 cil. 2WD, the car is in excelent conditions, sometimes when the transmission is in PARKING mode de ignition fail to start, then when I move the stick to DRIVE mode, works fine. Anyone have any clues for this issue ? I just love the car, it's a dream come true to me. :) Thanxs for your time.
  • mpzanottompzanotto Posts: 6
    Are you using the original ignition key ? Because a copy of the key will cause a problem with the ignition.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    nutral start switch need adjustment
  • mpzanottompzanotto Posts: 6
  • jaylalibjaylalib Posts: 2
  • jaylalibjaylalib Posts: 2
    Hi there,

    This problem started yesterday. First it would start once then run for about 3 seconds then stall. After that it would turn over but not start. If you left it alone for 2-3 minutes it would repeat that process. After about 6-7 times of this it will no longer even turn over. Just get 1 click sound when I turn the key to start. Sounds like coming from under the right side of the dash each time I turn the key to start.
    Clock radio and window control lights on the driver door go out when I try to turn over.

    Not the battery, headlights come on strong. Also tried to jump it, just to rule that option out.

    Any Ideas? Out of warranty, 46,000 miles. :(


  • jim83421jim83421 Posts: 6
    I am working on a 1990 grand cherokee 4.0 engine with new plugs & wires. It fires off like it suppose to but after running a few seconds it stumbles, backfires ,runs very rough. It only lasts few minutes then it starts to run fine with no problems at all. fuel pressure is very good and no codes in the computer system.. any ideas that may lead me to the cause .............
  • jnunezjnunez Posts: 1
    2001 jeep cherokee 6 cylinder 4x4 man trans. After driving around for 30 min to an hour on hot days the eng sounds like it re starts on 5 cylinders. The truck starts to shake and the eng code is # 3 cylinder misfire. I have changed the plugs and coil module. I think it could be a eng computer problem any Ideas.
  • Hi all, have a 2000 Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8. had no real problems until today, pulled over for five minutes, engine off, head lamps on. would not turn over when I went to start it. ( battery recently flat due to wife! ) Got it started with jump leads and sounded awful, not firing on all cylinders and would not idle AT ALL. Whiring/slight screeching somewhere also.Had to be towed home!
    Car has had recent LPG conversion. Switch to petrol, same problem. Any ideas????
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    sound like you have alternater prob
    how old is battery if over 2 3 years change it
  • astemastem Posts: 6
    Hello to all. I have a 2001 Sport and it's in great shape. No issues and no engine lights going on. This morning she just wouldn't start. Sounds strong when I hit the ignition, but just won't turn. I didn't see a code show up, but "no bus" did show. How seriuos is this, and what do I need to do to get her fixed. THANKS
  • thanks, spot on. new battery did the trick, will see if the alternator keeps it charged. thanks again
  • jwnicholsjwnichols Posts: 2
    My girlfriend got her Jeep brand new in December of 2005. The problems began almost as soon as she got it. She will turn the key to try to start the car, and it will try to turn over and then she loses all power to the dash and air conditioner and the check engine light comes on. She will then turn it off and restart it (sometimes a couple of tries) and it will work just fine (engine light will stay on for a day or two then go off). In addition, sometimes she will be driving and the same thing will happen. The jeep will stall and she will have no electrical power. Another possibly related problem is that sometimes the vehicle will shutter at low speeds or when stopped at a stop light or something. She has had it in the shop five or six times, and they have replaced several things, but to no avail. Anyone have any thoughts on this? TIA
  • hello all, i have a curious problem that i have been experiencing lately with my 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee, its a straight six and i bought it about 4 or 5 months back. When i put it in gear it intermittenly loses power, i can push my foot down on the gas pedal, and nothing happens. The jeep still is running but it just doesnt respond to the gas being applied, but (and this is where it gets a bit curious) if im stopped at a stop sign or a light while its still in drive but my foot on the brake, the jeep will begin revving and if i let off the brake a bit, it will not just roll but lurch forward as if a good amount of gas was applied while my foot isnt even near the gas pedal. also while driving, and experiencing the loss of power popping sounds can be heard from under the hood. the rpm needle jumps up and down the whole time this is going on as well, and the engine runs like garbage when its in park and this is happening. On a whim, we changed the crank sensor thinking it might be somehow related, but that didnt do it. does anyone out there have any possible ideas that could help? anything would be appreciated
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    i would try a new distrubrater inside it it has a cam sensor that is used in relation to crank sensor by the computer and also the soloinides in the trans
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