Other than that, I love my truck, and oh...I want to drive it to Buffalo NY via rt 15 from Virginia 3 times a year to see relatives, so two wheel drive operation is not desirable. I bought it just because It had 4wl drive V8.
Update: I went to the dealer today and he said the Transfer Chain needs replaced ($600 - $700). I called around and got quotes (and info) for slightly less so I'm going to have to grin and bear it I guess. At least the dealer didn't charge me for diagnosing the problem (which seems unusual). I will follow-up once it's finished.
i just got a 2000 jeep cherokee laredo and i a whining noise when i drive i took it back to where i got if from they said jeeps are loud could i be right by thinking something is up with the transmission or could it be something else.
Where is the whining noise coming from? My GC Limited doesn't have a whining noise and it's full-time 4-wheel drive. Did you check your power steering fluid? Is it shifting ok?
I have a 98 JGC, that does not want to shift out of 1st gear, if you remove the battery cables and then put them back on the car will start in 2nd gear, if it does not reset itself then it will again not shift out of 1st. I have ran across alot of people with the same problem all with different fixes that someone has told them. I have tried to look up the parts that they say might be the problem and I get no results that those parts are even a match for my Jeep. I need help anybody, any suggestions? China
i can mainly hear it on the driver side. when i put it in reverse or drive i can feel it but people have told me that i suppose to cuz it's more like a truck....
I have a 97 JGC and the shop manual. 96-98 were similar. I am 4x2. If you are 4x4, there is greater chance you may be different.
I looked at Troubleshooting guide entry for "Stuck in 1st Gear. Will Not Upshift"
1) Throttle linkage misadjusted or stuck 2) Gearshift linkage misadjusted 3) Governor component electrical fault 4) Front band out of adjustment 5) Clutch or servo malfunction.
There is a cable from the throttle and a cable from the shift lever to the transmission. For (4) there is an adjustment screw. It is sort of on top of the transmission and not easy to get to. I think you need a torque wrench.
If you are lucky, it is (1), (2) or (4). The Haynes manual has info for these if you want to do it yourself. For (3) or (5) you need a pro.
When you start it make sure the A/C is OFF and drive it for a while. If it goes away or is less severe, it could be your serpentine belt or one of the attached components.
I took my belt off for a repair but when I put it back on I had to stretch it a little. Sometimes it was quiet for days and then it would start to whine. When I start with A/C off it is always quiet. When I get some spare time I will tighten it.
Anything with a pulley on the belt (water pump, alternator, etc) could be making a noise. Get a long (14-20 in.) screwdriver with a flat blade (Sears). CAREFULLLY place flat blade in contact with each component keeping away from the pulley/belt. Put your ear to the plastic handle. Or you can buy a stethoscope. Maybe you will discover something.
I have a 2000 GC Loredo 4X4 and I think I know exactly what your problem is.......my Jeep's in the shop & I'm having the transfer case replaced for the SECOND time (at $1300 a pop)--the noises you describe are all too familiar! I bought mine used with 32K miles on it (in 2002) and I replaced the transfer case in summer 2006 with an identical part from a junked jeep GC. Needless to say, the part I replaced it with was obviously defective b/c it's now worthless as well. The mechanic who is working on it now seems to be aware that this is a problem inherent in transfer cases installed by Jeep.....he's replaced many. Jeep is aware of the problem, too. I've found out that Jeep GC 4X4's, model years 1990-1998 have been recalled for defective transfer cases. I don't think it's so far fetched to assume the problem extends beyond those model years. I intend to hound Jeep until I get satisfaction......A transfer case is intended to be a lifetime part & it is highly unusual that it needs replaced at all, let alone TWICE, and it is NOT a $20 part (obviously). Anyone else having this problem?
Ellery1- Sounds like your transfer case was included in the Jeep recall.....GC 4x4's, model years 1990-1998 were recalled for defective, leaky transfer cases. Go to Jeep.com and enter your VIN to find out. Sounds like ALL Jeeps' transfer cases are doomed.
That clunking sound is coming from the transfer case....THEY ARE ALL JUNK PARTS & JEEP KNOWS IT. Mine's being replaced for the second time in two years.....It clunks when you get up to about 45-50mph and will stop most of the time if you let off the gas? Can you feel the thud under your feet on driver's side? We really need to collectively hound JEEP until the problem is rectified. Jeep is aware of problems with their transfer cases---1990-1998 model year GC 4X4's were recalled for defective, leaky transfer cases. However, the problem obviously extends beyond 1998....mine's a 2000. Anybody in?
2nd Update: Had the Transfer Chain replaced the Transfer Case assy overhauled. Cost was $455.37. Runs like a charm now. Hopefully, I won't have to go through that again for a while....
Hello I have a problem with my jeep,suddenly my reverse in my car stopped working but the drive is working and the N is working..... What could possibly be the problem? Has this happened to anyone else? I would appreciate any help .... thanks
About two weeks ago, I was coming off the freeway up to a stop light. As I was decelerating the RPMs went way high like it was in neutral. This happened at about 50mph. I would push on the accelerator and it was like it was in neutral but it wasnt. I pulled into a parking lot and when it got to about 10mph, it stopped. I continued on to work but it seemed like it wouldnt down shift to 1st, almost like it would kickdown only to second. When taking off from dead stop, it would seem like it would start from 2nd gear. Just yesterday, it acted like it wouldnt come out of first gear. I pulled down a side steet to get off the main road and it corrected itself. It seemed to shift fine like nothing at all was wrong. I changed the trans fluid and filter today and took it for a test drive. It does seem to be better, but not really perfect. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue could be?
You could be low on fluid. New fluids are clear and its harder to read dipstick. Check it while running and HOT. Dipstick should look really wet. I wish they had kept the fluid red. I made this mistake because I was paranoid about overfilling it.
Check for leaks in the lines from transmission to radiator.
I have a Chrysler shop manual for Jeep. For many types of transmission problems they mention that the shift lever cable or the transmission cable to the throttle being out of adjustment could be the reason.
I suggest you have an honest mechanic look at the cable issues before taking it to a transmission shop. My experience with them has not been good.
My transmission shifts into overdrive very hard when I am driving slow in traffic as I reach 30 mph. If I turn my overdrive off it does not do it. I had my fluid changed hoping to correct the problem. It did not help. I have 76000 miles on it.
I am also pulling a boat on the weekends. I drive with my overdrive off in traffic and until I reach 50 mph. and I drive at 75 mph while pulling the boat. Is that hard on the tranny?
First, you will have a supply and return line between transmission and radiator assembly. I'd be absolutely stunned if you didn't. My 4.0L I6 has it.
I would expect small hoses that are capped at the end by small metal lines. The lines probably have a metal quick connect fitting where they attach to radiator. One of the lines should connect high and the other low. Radiator assembly may also have A/C lines.
Is standard cooling enough for your application ? I don't know. If fluid level is going down and you have no leaks you need to find out why. Check fluid level while engine running and HOT. If overfilled, seek assistance.
Info below is from 97 JGC Chrysler shop manual in their transmission troubleshooting table.
Condition: Harsh 1-2 OR 2-3 OR 3-4 upshifts Possible Causes: Lockup solenoid malfunction Solution: Remove valve body and replace solenoid
Do you have one ? It sounds like you may be headed for a rebuild.
If they repair something else and this component has modest cost, maybe you should have it done as a precaution. Incremental labor should be small. It might save you a trip back.
Hi I have purchase from a bid 2004 Laredo CRD with around 60,000 mile , looks like the automatic transmission is stack at 2nd gear . The mechanic has replaced the gear oil and filter , and according to there diagnostic computer there is no problem ..
The car is at transmission specialist that found out with his smartbox the following error : X431 DIAG Report Code 001: Solenoid supply voltage (DTC ID 10 ) .
He is pretty sure that it’s the Solenoid that needs to be replace . Any idea what went wrong ? I’m going to be at the US next week and would like to buy it online , any idea what is the part number and recommended on line store ? Thanks Oren
Hi, I have a problem with my trans and before I dump money into the truck I would like some opinions on what it could be. The trans works well when not under stress but yesterday while trying to tow my boat out of the water the trans would not engage . It made a lot of noise but eventually pulled it out. But on the way home whenever I took off from a light it would shudder . it did this all the way home. I unhooked the boat to drive a friend home and no shuddering when leaving a light :confuse: ?? Fluid level is good and suggestions? thanks
I have a 2001 Jeep GCL 6 cyl 56,000 miles, driving fine then on next trip suddenly won't shift out of first gear until about 3500 rpm.Took it to a tranny shop and mechanic hooks it up to the diagnostic computer and says there is a "pressure switch" inside the tranny that regulates the flow of fluid.Under normal conditions should read 0 (psi?) at idle then as the pressure increases to 37 will shift the vechicle into 2nd. I got an estimate of $1800 to $2500 to repair, sounds over the top. Any body have a similar problem and can offer insight or advice?
I have an 03 Jeep GC with 66k miles. I recently noticed that when cruising at freeway speeds (70-75 mph) the transmission will downshift from 5th to 4th gear when there is no excess load on the transmission. It will shift to 4th for a second or two and then shift back to 5th. Even when I am going down hill it will do this. It seems to only do it when the transmission is up to temperature. Has anyone else experienced this? Would a transmission flush help this? Just looking for some answers to see if this is a prelude to more serious issues.
ok, both the mechanic and myself are stumped. We replaced the coolant sensor and then they suggested the radiator fan (mind you they quoted $500). As with the others I have read, my truck runs fine on the highway, but as soon as I am in stop n go traffic, she gets hot. First time she overheated I let her sit for an hour. The "Check gauge" light came on, but when I went to start her again, light was out and she ran fine all the way home (about 40 miles) without a problem. Dropped it off to get it looked at and that's when they changed the sensor. It did it again but this time, it didn't cool off,had to have it towed (the repair shop paid for that) for them to tell me 5 hours later, we need to replace the fan because it wasn't working. Long story short, I did not have them replace it, it ran fine when I bought it home. Checked all the hoses for leaks, none. Coolant was clean and in both radiator and reservoir. Today after the second time (took 2 hours to get home, usually 25 min) the coolant was at the top of the reservior, the hose was limp and the radiator had fluid in it. HELP!!!!!!!!
sounds as if your fan clutch is bad cost bout 75 bucks and can change in bout hour main fan is not turning when hot (to check run engine till hot sut off engine take fan and turn it whwn engine is hot should have resistance when you try to turn if turns easy fan clutch is bad)
It will take patience, but you should be able to find a solution. Not big $ to get started. Excuse me if you have done these already. You may notice an incremental improvement as you do each step and when you get to the end it may be resolved. Or you may find that one of the steps resolves your problem. Spending repair $ on a guess is not cost-effective.
First, with engine hot and idling, radiator fan or one of the fans should operate at a high speed. I think it's intermittent. It's operation is not subjective. Do research on how it's suppose to work. Either it works or it doesn't. I had a Ford Ranger with your problem and a faulty fan clutch prevented fan from operating at high speed. Assuming that's not the problem, continue.
Safety Note: Make sure engine cools (2 hours) before removing radiator cap. Always wear face and/or eye protection when removing cap.
1) Make sure system was pressure tested. Cooling system operates under pressure to get max effectiveness. Fire your mechanic if he has not done this yet. Replace radiator cap with a new one. Make sure cap pressure rating matches your car. They have to remove the cap to test system, so cap is not part of the test.
2) Remove old thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not open or opens very little, that may be your problem. I would not put it back in until you get system working (unless very cold). Be sure to put a new one in no matter what.
3) Make sure radiator front is clear of all debris, insects, etc. Use a soft brush to clean. Avoid bending the fins. Do not brush across the fins. If it was very dirty that could be your problem. A little fin damage is OK. If you have a lot of fin damage consult a radiator shop.
4) Buy a Prestone backflush kit and purge all old coolant and loose dirt Disconnect reservoir while doing all this.
5)Next, treat it with Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner. You put it in, drive several hours, and then backflush it. Dirt and deposits interfere with heat transfer between the coolant and engine block, and the radiator.
Note: For backflush, get a long piece of hose that fits snug into top of radiator so you can direct it into a bucket (5 gal.). Make sure hose pressure is not high. Turn it on slowly and gradually to find the right point.
Note: Unless it's freezing I see no need to put anti-freeze back in until you finished all troubleshooting.
After all of this, I would be surprised if you didn't see some improvement. If still not working, take it to Jeep dealer. They are expensive, but I would really surprised if they couldn't fix something like this At least you will know you are not paying a mechanic $90/hr because your radiator was dirty. They can put new thermostat in and fill with coolant while making the repair.
There's an electric fan, driver's side behind radiator? Mine's '89 Cherokee, it has. Anyway, if so there's a "thermal fan switch", find it. If you disconnect the fan switch harness, usually the switch is screwed into a radiator tank (header), jump the wires from the switch together with a piece of wire and see if the fan comes on. (Still assuming you have an electric fan on your Jeep). If it does, the problem is the switch, replace it. There's also a relay in the circuit? (maybe) Another $5.00 part to replace. As for the fan clutch on the other fan. With the engine warmed up, switch the engine OFF, reach in and try to spin the fan with your fingers, If the fan spins more than 25-50% of a revolution, replace it. You shouldn't be able to feel any play in the fan either. With air-conditioning, as mine has, I turned the a/c on when I was in border traffic and that caused the electric fan to come on - problem solved (at least at that critical moment). Cold outside so I just turned the temp to warm. Haven't seen ANY electric fans just up and quit without first making horrendous noises for months.
thanks for the detailed description, it helps. I tried to take it to AAMCO today, but they were honest enough to tell me to take it to the jeep dealer because of the problems. Took it, 350 later, they replaced the coolant fan relay and told me I would still overheat because I need the cooling fan replaced. Again, they quoted 500, its the chrysler part. I researched the part online and ordered it for 120 (OEM part). So in the meantime, they suggested I stay out of stop n go traffic. So now I am on a leave of absence from work until the part comes in. Hopefully thats the final rebuild. They charged $112/hr for labor, ouch!!! More suggestions are good, thanks.
I am new in this forum. I have just recently bought a 1996 Grand Jeep Cherokee Limited. It has an error message in the dispaly of "Trans. Overtemp." What might this be about?
You can have a faulty relay switch or your sensor is bad. You should really get it checked on the computer to rule out anything major, Like the radiator. -I had a 1986 Rodeo that the "check Engine" light wouldn't go off. Had it checked and it is just a faulty light. Unplugged it in the engine compartment and all was well.
Hello, Son Jeep just started pouring fluid out when starting motor. Fluid is coming from front of transmission, but not sure where. Going to pull dust cover off, but not sure what to look for. Any ideas?
Check the lines that run from the transmission to the transmission cooler. The cooler will be near or integrated with your radiator. If transmission itself is leaking swap out for a rebuilt one or trust someone to rebuild it. If you pull it and work on it yourself, let us know how you did it.
Hello, I read alot of these posts and didn't find my exact problem shown, but my '96 Laredo 5.2/auto won't shift properly from 2nd to 3rd (when stone cold) until I've driven a few miles, then it shifts fine w/no slipping of banging. I just bought the Jeep and it seemed fine when I test drove it (warm). I have 160k miles, but it looks and runs great, just this shift issue when fluids are cold. I can take my foot off the gas over 3000 rpm and sometimes it will drop into 3rd, but if I hold the gas down it won't shift until about 3500 rpm, then it is a hard shift. I checked the trans fluid (in Park) and it was about 3/4" above the full line, but I later read it should be checked in Neutral. So I still need to do that, but what else could it be? This must be a common problem with these vehicles. The fluid was red and foamy when I checked it hot. Thanks.
Thanks, I later checked the fluid level with the trans in neutral and it showed low, so I added 1 quart to get it in the middle of the full zone, hopefully that will help??? My daughter is driving this vehicle and I need to make sure it's running ok.Do all '96 5.2 V8 trannys stay in 2nd gear too long when they are cold?
No. 9 looks interesting but it is probably less expensive to look first for a misadjustment.
SHIFT IS DELAYED OR ERRATIC
1. Fluid level low or high 2. Fluid filter clogged 3. Throttle linkage misadjusted 4. Throttle linkage binding 5. Gearshift linkage misadjusted 6. Clutch or servo failure 7. Governor circuit electrical fault 8. Front band misadjusted 9. Pump suction passage leak
Details for No. 9 - Check for excessive foam on dipstick after normal driving. Check for loose pump bolts, defective gasket. Replace pump assembly if required.
Thanks, I'll have to pick up a service manual to fully enjoy my new "hobby". Maybe I'll just replace the pump and gasket to start, but it seems to be related to trans oil temperature somehow as it shifts good when the oil warms up. Even if I warm the engine 1st, it doesn't help, the jeep needs to be driven about 4 miles before it shifts properly. I'm guessing it's a common problem? I do know the radiator was replaced before I got it, don't know if they changed the fluid after that. Maybe there's water in it that goes into the filter when it gets warm but blocks the pickup when cold??? Thanks
If the filter is really clogged it may have more of an impact when fluid is cold. I don't know much about transmission fluid except that there are different types. Maybe somebody put the wrong type in. It sounds the cheapest thing to do first is put a new filter in it and replace fluid and clean the magnet.
What ever came of the Weerrring sound in reverse? I have been told that my 1998 Jeep needs a new (rebuilt) tranny and this is exactly what is happening. I get the sound in reverse and maybe a little sluggishness on inclines. I have been quoted 2600 for the rebuild. I'm in CA.
Well, so far I have replaced the fluid and filter, cleaned the pan, replaced the governor and solenoid, and replaced the "error 21" front O2 sensor, and it still doesn't shift into 3rd until 3500 RPM when the trans is cold. Everything works fine after driving a few miles. No other error codes. I thought this would be a more common problem, but I can't find much info on it.
A pro might be able adjust the bands and linkage. That's probably your last hope for an easy solution. The problem is we don't know the exact algorithm used by tranmission when it decides to shift and how it uses the inputs so that we can troubleshoot. Even if we knew, measuring them would be difficult.
I had a minivan with transmission trouble that was under dealer extended warranty. I bought it when it was 3 years old. My recollection is their standard procedure was to remove, disassemble, and then rebuild. They clean it. They know what components to inspect and replace. They don't try to pinpoint the problem. They know how to test it on the bench so they know its OK when they re-install it.
If you decide to get a rebuild, all rebuilds are not created equal. Find out about the different levels For your problem, one of the less expensive rebuilds may be adequate. Dealing with transmission shop is like walking on ice on a warm spring day. Good luck.
I have the solution. Your grand cherokee has a limp mode where only 2nd and 3rd gears will functions. You need to have the tranny solenoid pack replaced, possibly the trans computer too. My 99 GC 4.7 V8 was in the shop 4 times before they fixed it. Is your check engine light on??? it should be right after limp mode engages. Also, do not go over 60 mph until you fix it. Also, short drives (less than 15 miles) usually will not trip the code and the vehicle will "seem" fixed. After you get it fixed, drive it for at LEAST 60 miles with no shutting off engine and see if problem returns. There are 4 codes that can cause this symptom to occur. Peace!
Thanks for the limp mode info. I don't get any check engine lights and it is only the shift from 2-3 that takes too long until I drive about 3 miles. I don't know if it is because the fluid is too thick at first or is it is the temp that changes things, but it gets all 4 gears before and after, just holds 2nd until about 3500RPM when it's cold. But the shifts are tight, no slipping at all. I'm going to try warming the engine with the trans in neutral before I drive it next time, that way the pump will be running and circulating fluid, I'll post the results. I've been reading alot of other blogs and see other people have the same problems or similar. I'm afraid to take it to a shop because I can't afford to get ripped off right now. Is there a temp sensor in the trans?
i also have a 2003 JGC that i have had trans problems with. First thing i would do is check the fluid level and if that is fine you might look into replacing the speed sensor. this is easy and a cheap replacement. it costs about 18 dollars at the part store and is located on the outside of the transmission under the driver side. This sensor, from what i hear determines the cars speed and what gear the trans should be in. If that doesn't fix the problem look into the governor pressure sensor and the governor sensor solenoid this may be a little trickier to replace because its under the trans pan. here's a link that will help you with this. http://www.jeepsunlimited.com/forums/showthread.php?t=841512. both parts set me back 68 dollars each at a local trans part shop. you can find it cheaper on the net at transmissionpartsusa. If you replace these parts make sure you use the right fluid that is recommended for jeeps because not all fluids are formulated the same and could cause problems. i just used mopar ATF+4. you more than likely have the 42RE trans but call your local jeep dealership with your vin number and they will tell you what kind of trans you have. i hope this helps you out.
I have a 2006 GC 3.7L that is doing basically the same thing as yours. It has 54K on it. Did you ever solve your problem? If so, have any pointers? Thanks.
I have a 2006 JGC with 54k miles. Recently it has been hesitating mainly driving up a hill or steeper slope. It also, recently started making a strange noise when the hesitation starts. I have read quite a few posts, but has anyone actually found a cure for this? Thanks.
I hate to tell you this, but no. Last time we took it in they explained that the torque for the 3.7L hesitates (rumbles) because it has trouble coverting the torque versus the fuel economy! (something like that!). Anyway - no fix, at this point we just give it more gas and push through the shudder. I am at the point where I need the dumb car to just break - so that they will actually fix it! Now that other Jeeps are catching up to the mileage that we have on ours I think maybe they might, figure out how to fix it. Maybe. Sorry - no help - just don't get a new torque converter, We have had three - doesn't work.
So far I have changed the governor and solenoid, fluid & filter, speed sensor, O2 sensor, and checked the linkage and it still holds 2nd too long when cold. I have been warming the engine with the trans in neutral in the morning to circulate the warm fluid, that seems to help. I recently added some stuff to swell the seals made by the company that makes Sta-Bil for gas, I think that is also helping. I'll start it and drive it cold to see if it is improved and post the results. I know alot of Jeep owners must be having similar problems, that's why I would like to find a solution. It's no fun driving a vehicle that doesn't run right, and spending $2,000.00 to fix a problem like this makes you dislike your vehicle even more. The previous owner said it overheated and he pulled over and shut it off and had it towed to the radiator shop for a new one, but maybe the trans got hot and the seals got hard, and that's why it shifts bad when cold? I'll post the "Trans Conditioner" results when I have them, it said drive 200 miles first. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think everyone's trans problem solution is a little unique possibly.
Comments
China
I looked at Troubleshooting guide entry for "Stuck in 1st Gear. Will Not Upshift"
1) Throttle linkage misadjusted or stuck
2) Gearshift linkage misadjusted
3) Governor component electrical fault
4) Front band out of adjustment
5) Clutch or servo malfunction.
There is a cable from the throttle and a cable from the shift lever to the transmission. For (4) there is an adjustment screw. It is sort of on top of the transmission and not easy to get to. I think you need a torque wrench.
If you are lucky, it is (1), (2) or (4). The Haynes manual has info for these if you want to do it yourself. For (3) or (5) you need a pro.
When you start it make sure the A/C is OFF and drive it for a while. If it goes away or is less severe, it could be your serpentine belt or one of the attached components.
I took my belt off for a repair but when I put it back on I had to stretch it a little. Sometimes it was quiet for days and then it would start to whine. When I start with A/C off it is always quiet. When I get some spare time I will tighten it.
Anything with a pulley on the belt (water pump, alternator, etc) could be making a noise. Get a long (14-20 in.) screwdriver with a flat blade (Sears). CAREFULLLY place flat blade in contact with each component keeping away from the pulley/belt. Put your ear to the plastic handle. Or you can buy a stethoscope. Maybe you will discover something.
I have a problem with my jeep,suddenly my reverse in my car stopped working but the drive is working and the N is working..... What could possibly be the problem? Has this happened to anyone else? I would appreciate any help ....
thanks
Check for leaks in the lines from transmission to radiator.
I have a Chrysler shop manual for Jeep. For many types of transmission problems they mention that the shift lever cable or the transmission cable to the throttle being out of adjustment could be the reason.
I suggest you have an honest mechanic look at the cable issues before taking it to a transmission shop. My experience with them has not been good.
I am also pulling a boat on the weekends. I drive with my overdrive off in traffic and until I reach 50 mph. and I drive at 75 mph while pulling the boat. Is that hard on the tranny?
How do I tell if I have a transmission cooler?
I would expect small hoses that are capped at the end by small metal lines. The lines probably have a metal quick connect fitting where they attach to radiator. One of the lines should connect high and the other low. Radiator assembly may also have A/C lines.
Is standard cooling enough for your application ? I don't know. If fluid level is going down and you have no leaks you need to find out why. Check fluid level while engine running and HOT. If overfilled, seek assistance.
Info below is from 97 JGC Chrysler shop manual in their transmission troubleshooting table.
Condition: Harsh 1-2 OR 2-3 OR 3-4 upshifts
Possible Causes: Lockup solenoid malfunction
Solution: Remove valve body and replace solenoid
Do you have one ? It sounds like you may be headed for a rebuild.
If they repair something else and this component has modest cost, maybe you should have it done as a precaution. Incremental labor should be small. It might save you a trip back.
I have purchase from a bid 2004 Laredo CRD with around 60,000 mile , looks like the automatic transmission is stack at 2nd gear .
The mechanic has replaced the gear oil and filter , and according to there diagnostic computer there is no problem ..
The car is at transmission specialist that found out with his smartbox the following error :
X431 DIAG Report
Code 001:
Solenoid supply voltage (DTC ID 10 ) .
He is pretty sure that it’s the Solenoid that needs to be replace .
Any idea what went wrong ?
I’m going to be at the US next week and would like to buy it online , any idea what is the part number and recommended on line store ?
Thanks
Oren
I have a problem with my trans and before I dump money into the truck I would like some opinions on what it could be. The trans works well when not under stress but yesterday while trying to tow my boat out of the water the trans would not engage . It made a lot of noise but eventually pulled it out. But on the way home whenever I took off from a light it would shudder . it did this all the way home. I unhooked the boat to drive a friend home and no shuddering when leaving a light :confuse: ?? Fluid level is good and suggestions? thanks
You may notice an incremental improvement as you do each step and when you get to the end it may be resolved. Or you may find that one of the steps resolves your problem. Spending repair $ on a guess is not cost-effective.
First, with engine hot and idling, radiator fan or one of the fans should operate at a high speed. I think it's intermittent. It's operation is not subjective. Do research on how it's suppose to work. Either it works or it doesn't. I had a Ford Ranger with your problem and a faulty fan clutch prevented fan from operating at high speed. Assuming that's not the problem, continue.
Safety Note: Make sure engine cools (2 hours) before removing radiator cap. Always wear face and/or eye protection when removing cap.
1) Make sure system was pressure tested. Cooling system operates under pressure to get max effectiveness. Fire your mechanic if he has not done this yet. Replace radiator cap with a new one. Make sure cap pressure rating matches your car. They have to remove the cap to test system, so cap is not part of the test.
2) Remove old thermostat and put it in a pot of boiling water. If it does not open or opens very little, that may be your problem. I would not put it back in until you get system working (unless very cold). Be sure to put a new one in no matter what.
3) Make sure radiator front is clear of all debris, insects, etc. Use a soft brush to clean. Avoid bending the fins. Do not brush across the fins. If it was very dirty that could be your problem. A little fin damage is OK. If you have a lot of fin damage consult a radiator shop.
4) Buy a Prestone backflush kit and purge all old coolant and loose dirt Disconnect reservoir while doing all this.
5)Next, treat it with Prestone Super Radiator Cleaner. You put it in, drive several hours, and then backflush it. Dirt and deposits interfere with heat transfer between the coolant and engine block, and the radiator.
Note: For backflush, get a long piece of hose that fits snug into top of radiator so you can direct it into a bucket (5 gal.). Make sure hose pressure is not high. Turn it on slowly and gradually to find the right point.
Note: Unless it's freezing I see no need to put anti-freeze back in until you finished all troubleshooting.
After all of this, I would be surprised if you didn't see some improvement. If still not working, take it to Jeep dealer. They are expensive, but I would really surprised if they couldn't fix something like this At least you will know you are not paying a mechanic $90/hr because your radiator was dirty. They can put new thermostat in and fill with coolant while making the repair.
I am new in this forum. I have just recently bought a 1996 Grand Jeep Cherokee Limited. It has an error message in the dispaly of "Trans. Overtemp." What might this be about?
Thank you in advance for your help.
-I had a 1986 Rodeo that the "check Engine" light wouldn't go off. Had it checked and it is just a faulty light. Unplugged it in the engine compartment and all was well.
It could just be the light sticking.
Son Jeep just started pouring fluid out when starting motor. Fluid is coming from front of transmission, but not sure where. Going to pull dust cover off, but not sure what to look for. Any ideas?
trans fluid should not be foamey poprobl ove full
No. 9 looks interesting but it is probably less expensive to look first for a misadjustment.
SHIFT IS DELAYED OR ERRATIC
1. Fluid level low or high
2. Fluid filter clogged
3. Throttle linkage misadjusted
4. Throttle linkage binding
5. Gearshift linkage misadjusted
6. Clutch or servo failure
7. Governor circuit electrical fault
8. Front band misadjusted
9. Pump suction passage leak
Details for No. 9 - Check for excessive foam on dipstick after normal driving. Check for loose pump bolts, defective gasket. Replace pump assembly if required.
Thanks
What ever came of the Weerrring sound in reverse? I have been told that my 1998 Jeep needs a new (rebuilt) tranny and this is exactly what is happening. I get the sound in reverse and maybe a little sluggishness on inclines. I have been quoted 2600 for the rebuild. I'm in CA.
Thanks for the response.
I had a minivan with transmission trouble that was under dealer extended warranty. I bought it when it was 3 years old. My recollection is their standard procedure was to remove, disassemble, and then rebuild. They clean it. They know what components to inspect and replace. They don't try to pinpoint the problem. They know how to test it on the bench so they know its OK when they re-install it.
If you decide to get a rebuild, all rebuilds are not created equal. Find out about the different levels For your problem, one of the less expensive rebuilds may be adequate. Dealing with transmission shop is like walking on ice on a warm spring day. Good luck.
Now that other Jeeps are catching up to the mileage that we have on ours I think maybe they might, figure out how to fix it. Maybe.
Sorry - no help - just don't get a new torque converter, We have had three - doesn't work.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I think everyone's trans problem solution is a little unique possibly.