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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • 1: Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ - Diagnostic Trouble Codes
    Pressure Control Solenoid A Intermittent P0750 Shift Solenoid circuit. Note: If code P1767 (Transmission Relay Always On) is also present: Replace transmission solenoid
  • I have a 99 Grand and the trans was doing the same stuff and I am about to order a new Heavy Duty NP242 from Spence was a very informative and courteous person.
  • The trans is definately a problem once it starts slipping it is just going to get worse. I drove mine for 30,000 miles till the trans finally gave out. The Jeep mechanic at my dealer said that the hydrolic valves are crap and this happens to a lot of Grand Cherokees and it was best to get a new transmission. I am going to try out buying mine from they seem pretty straight foreward and I hope I gat another 100,000 miles out of my 99 GC
  • Have them change the crank position sensor. It worked for me.
  • Have them replace the crank position sensor.
  • brkjeepbrkjeep Posts: 1
    Has come on twice - Internal transmission failure or open/shorted circuit condition? R/O cheapest prob first - which would be...?
  • txjeepgirltxjeepgirl Posts: 1
    Hello! I have a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee (67,000 miles) and for the last 2 weeks or so the following things have been happening:

    1. When I brake to stop, say at a stop light/sign, just as I come to a complete stop, the entire car jerks forward a bit even with my foot on the brake. This happens EVERY time I stop. The jerking/lurching action can even occur when I have been at a complete stop.

    2. After coming out of a stop, or even putting my foot on the pedal after slowing down, it has a hard time grabbing the gear and getting out of first and the engine strain is very audible. Once it shifts out of first, I have no problems.

    I took it to the dealer on Friday and they told me that it was not an electrical problem, might be internal and recommended a transmission flush, etc. I took the car to a mechanic friend on Saturday and he did the flush, cleaning, whatever it is for $125. He told me the fluid was so dirty it looked like motor oil. However, now I hear something like a fan squealing while I am slowing down to stop. This is very annoying!

    The car did improve slightly that day, but the problems are back today. Does this sound like the entire tranny needs to come out? I am a single mom and the $1500 isn't growing on the money tree in the back yard today. HELP!

    Thank you for any advice you can offer.
  • savast2769savast2769 Posts: 2
    My problem is that my trans is stuck in safe mode. I have been running it and was curious if the 4x4 still works. I took it off road and that 4w lo works fine but, it now won't come out of 4w lo. how do I get it out of 4w lo? I know I need trans work but 4x4 did work before it went into safe mode.
  • savast2769savast2769 Posts: 2
    According to the Haynes repair manual the code is (No distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking. Check the circuit between the distributer and the PCM.)You'll need a meter to do this. Some places do free scanning and can verify the problem.
  • slaught1slaught1 Posts: 8
    I have a 2005 GC with 5.7, your issues sound very similar to mine. The dealership has gone back and forth to whether it is an engine or transmission, although like yours they did replace the torque converter once but that did not help.

    Have you had any luck getting this issue resolved?
  • Bought a used 98 Cherokee a couple of months ago. It is now leaking a small amount of oil out of the transfer case. Before I take it to our mechanic, Is this usual with this model year? Thanks.
  • "Holy Crapp",I just read your entry about the transmission fire,What ever became of that problem?I tow regularly and am rather anxious about doing so now.Has there been many other situations like this with Grand CL'S?.....serenityknoll! :
  • ashjeepashjeep Posts: 2
    OMG!! What was the out come of this problem you had?? My Jeep GCL (05, 44k) is doing the same thing...the clicking in the steering, and the gear thing...but it hasn't started stallling on me yet. :surprise:
  • weddnchicweddnchic Posts: 1
    I bought my 91 Grand Cherokee Laredo 6cyl last year, it took off in 3rd gear from a dead stop pretty randomly from the time I bought it. It's gotten more consistent over the year and jerks forward at long stops, so I talked to a transmission guy, who said it needed a $250 valve replacement. When he got into it he found much metal and a snap ring so he rebuilt it, which was $1400. It took 4 days of me driving my normal 8 miles to work before it was taking off in 3rd gear again and jumping forward at a red light like it's shifting down (not shifting down to take off in first gear of course) it is probably worse than it was.
    I tried the trick of turning the key off an on three times to have a code revealed to me, which only gave me the word 'done' on the odometer. The O/D light didn't flash at all. Now I'm searching the web for a solution before I start replacing sensors, racking up more money. Ideas?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I continue to have rough idle and vibration. I have verified the engine is not running correctly. First, I plan to verify the engine should be operating within tolerance. Then, I will look at possibility of transmission knocking it off blanace.

    My situation is a bit different (year 97, 4x2) unless you put 130K on yours. I'm fixing it for my kid. I would consider a transmission rebuild if I get engine running OK. Otherwise, no $ for dealer or repair shop.

    See below for details and Good Luck.

    The engine has rough idle when stopped. Putting transmission in Neutral reduces vibration, but it is still way too much. I have no Check Engine Light. There are no codes (you can get them via the odometer). Otherwise, acceleration, ride, and steering are still very good. A/C great, but I'm on my 3rd radio.

    Haynes makes a great manual about OBD II. It has a lot of useful info about what to do before buying a scan tool.

    I purchased a vacuum gauge. It looks OK. I purchased a fuel pressure test gauge. Mine is suppose to be about 45 psi. At idle, my pressure vibrates between 35 and 42. I open the throttle and it locks steady at 42. Then the engine sounds great.

    I was surprised to learn there is a cable between the transmission and the throttle. So far I have found little info about how the details of their interaction. I have the Haynes and the big Chrysler shop manual.

    Below is a list of servicing I have done. I believe all of them have helped.

    (1) Change transmission fluid and filter. Adjust forward band.
    (2) New distributor cap, wires, spark plugs, coil and air filter.
    (3) Pulled fuel rail. Injectors pass electrical test
    (4) Intake manifold vacuum test OK
    (5) Removed & cleaned throttle until it looks new. Replace idle air control valve.
    (6) Problems detected with fuel pressure test as explained above.

    Note: Fuel pump module looks like it is connected directly to battery voltage and is gated on/off by the fuel pump relay. So why isn't it the fuel pressure the same all the time?
  • ashjeepashjeep Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I caved and brought it to the dealer again. The dealer said I have a new kind of transmission. Its electric or something. The transmission is designed to "lock" between gears to "save fuel". I don't know a thing about cars but that sounds like a crock. I was figuring it was some kind of injection problem. They did a computer update and it drives a little smoother. Weird. I still will not settle until I find a better answer. Thank you for your answer. I am going to run it by another private party mechanic. :confuse:
  • roadangelroadangel Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Grand Cherokee and it shifts hard from first to second gear. It only does this in the summer and not the winter or spring, after going into second gear it runs fine. Has anyone else had this problem? :sick:
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC. First, I suggest service the transmission (filter, fluid, band adjust) if not within last 30K miles. You need torque wrench to adjust band. It's messy and dirty. Where I live, Autozone disposes fluid for free. See haynes manual for procedures and follow all safety guidelines MAKE SURE YOU FILL IT UP WITH CORRECT TYPE OF FLUID (Owner's Guide)

    Or seek a reputable shop, but I avoid that (trust) until I am pretty certain opening up the trans is necessary.

    While researching my own transmission I read that the "powertrain control" uses different governance curves based on engine temperature. My transmission shifts much better once the engine is warmed up Anyway, my conclusion is that inconsistent engine performance may cause inconsistent transmission performance. Consider this: my transmission has a cable to the throttle just like my accelerator pedal. Of course, there's always the risk that the problem is in the transmission and all of the above is a waste of time.
  • I also have a 2005 GC with 5.7 hemi and 60,000 miles. I have been having a problem with the transmission that the dealer has not yet been able to resolve. I just picked it up last night (Friday, of course) after having the PCM (I think that is the PowerTrain Control Module) replaced. I wanted to take it on a road trip starting this weekend for our 40th wedding anniversary. I didn't make it to breakfast at the Jack-in-the-Box (3 miles) before the problem recurred. What a bummer!

    While cruising along, the vehicle suddenly shifts into 3rd gear. It will not shift up to 4th or D. It will not shift down to 1 or 2. It will shift to P, N, or R. I suspect that 3rd is the fail-safe default for when the shift mechanism loses its mind.

    The dealer's first solution three weeks ago was to flush the transmission. Everything seemed fine for a week and a half. But then it recurred last Satruday (over a weekend of course). I had to drive the 150 miles home in 3rd gear.

    Has anyone out there experienced a similar problem and had it resolved satisfactorily?
  • I have recently acquired a JGC Over lander and it has recently started doing some crazy things while riding.

    It does not do it all the time and I can not get the fault to reacure when I want it to.

    While you are driving for what ever reason the engine light comes on and the car goes into nymph mode, were it will not allow you to gain any speed.

    It has also on one occasion caused the loss of all gears, where I had to switch the ignition off and re start before I could rev. the engine and once again drive.

    It seems to be when the car is at a running temperature, but not always.

    The car also at stages seems to jerk into gear and you can hear the engine over rev while you are driving.

    One one occasion while driving on a flat road the fault appeared and the car would not change gears the road then had an incline with a traffic light which I had to stop at, after I pulled off going up the hill the car then changed gears as if nothing was wrong.

    I have had it in at a repair shop and the computer showed a fault on the vacume sensor which we replaced but the fault has not cleared.

    The gearbox has now also started leaking oil, I have heard that it takes a special oil (what type of oil do I need to put into it?)

    I would appreciate anyone having any ideas what the problems could be.
  • jenniedjennied Posts: 1
    2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee - purchased last fall and quickly had to rebuild transmission. Ugh!! Some of it under a 3 mos warranty. Now we just replaced bad air conditioner, compressor, the works. Ugh!! Then when mechanic went to drive and check it out ... the transmission was acting funny ... and wham under the hood is a broken cable. Throttle cable. Towed it to the same transmission place ... and my question is ... what if the transmission was bad before and the "throttle" cable is apparently SO important, would the cable have not been changed during the rebuild?
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You may have multiple problems and check engine light was only one of them. It sounds like one of these enginetransmission interaction issues.

    I would start looking at wires between engine and transmission. You may have to clean underneath first (find a carwash with a wand). Make a note or take picture of anyting that looks suspicious.

    I can crawl under my jeep for inspection, but my jeep is much older than yours.

    If it's a ground wire problem, it will be difficult to pinpoint. I never had one, but my dad had one.
  • rewirewi Posts: 2
    My 2000 GC had a transmission failure. The tranny was hot - about 60 miles on a 90 degree day. It dropped out of overdrive and then the check engine light came on. The next morning, it ran fine. I dropped it off at the shop. The best repair option was to put in a second hand. After about 800 miles it started having the same problem although instead of the check engine, I got a transmission overheated light too. Again, fine when cool. The shop replaced this one at their cost. The third tranny is doing the same so I think it is not the tranmission but something else.

    My thought is that the fluid is not circulating through the cooler.

    I know next to nothing about automatic trnasmissions, so any help will be appreciated.


  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    you have the right thought prob a pluged cooler in the rad need to replace the rad.
  • sputnicsputnic Posts: 1
    :D I recently bought a 96 jgc unlimited for rear-end, transmission, and straight inline six motor, Ive already swaped rear-ends with my 98 jgc laredo. No problems there.
    question is will I have any problems swapping transmissions, not transfer cases.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You are in dangerous waters and I have a few suggestions.

    1. Cooling failure could be due to plugged line or cooler OR the fins of the cooler are clogged with dirt and debris OR whatever pumps the fluid is not working. Radiator and transmission coolers should be cleaned 1 a year. The fins are fragile so use a soft brush.for debris and garden hose for dirt.

    With ground clearance of Jeep you can probably crawl under it without jacking it up.

    2. If you have a regular mechanic, use them to get a referral to a transmission shop. When you visit the shop, let them know who referred you.

    3. I am in favor of used parts for headlight assembly, door, etc. I have a problem with used motors and transmissions, unless you are having it rebuilt. How do you know their mileage or how they were maintained? (Oh, the mechanic said they were low mileage or somebody told him they were low mileage.).

    You want a Re-manufactured transmission or a rebuild of your existing one. On the remanufacture, you should get a factory warranty (in case Joe's Transmissions closes).

    On the rebuild, I think they have different levels of rebuild so inquire about it. Ask for a bag with all the parts they replaced.
  • apnowak66apnowak66 Posts: 3
    Hi everyone,

    I have a 05 GC, it has fairly low miles, about 58K. If I try to accelerate by pushing the pedal down anymore than half way while stopped(IE coming off a stop light). I hear a studdering(like a kuk kuk kuk, is the best way i can describe the sound)... after I get out of first gear, i can floor the gas pedal and it doesnt make the noise, it only happens while I'm in D accelerating from a dead stop. Any help you could offer would be great even if its just ideas on what might be going wrong. Thanks in advance.


  • hatcheckhatcheck Posts: 7
    Which JGC is it? What Transmission? Hemi? or?? ;) ;) ;)
  • apnowak66apnowak66 Posts: 3
    its a laredo, 4x4, 3.7 liter 6 cyl(not sure why this matters?)... 5 speed automatic
  • I know you posted your problem two weeks ago and may have figured it out by now, but in case you haven't, here's my opinion. First off, if the tranny cooler has somehow stopped up, there is no need to replace the entire radiator! You can disconnect the cooler lines from the radiator and try to blow it out. At least this way you will know what clogged the lines if you are able to clear it out. Either way, I recommend installing an aftermarket tranny cooler in front of the A/C condenser. The service dept. at your local Jeep dealer will probably say that you should run the aftermarket cooler in-line WITH the factory cooler. I completely bypassed the factory cooler in my 2000 GC, and here is why I recommend that you bypass the factory cooler altogether: I have a friend who owns a 2001 GC who completely burned up the transmission due to the lines that run through the radiator rupturing and exchanging tranny fluid for anti-freeze. As you can imagine, coolant doesn't make for a very good tranny fluid! All of this happened to him while at highway speed and their are no symptoms that would let you know that this is about to happen. So, if you run the aftermarket cooler in-line with the factory cooler, this could still happen to you, and you wouldn't know until it was too late! I hope this helps you or someone else out.
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