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VW Jetta Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • Hi-
    I bought my wife a used 2002 jetta wagon VR6 and have started to have all the same symptoms as you listed. massive electronic failure while sitting at a stoplight, dash resetting, radio and lights flickering, etc. At first we thought it was a battery or alternator problem, but have now eliminated both of those. I wanted to know if you ever solved your problem or figured out what was causing it? Thanks
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Have you verified that car does not have the dreaded Coolant migration Problem

    It is easy to check for and easy to prevent... but if antifreeze allowed to wick (migrate) into the entire electrical system, it is VERY expensive to repair.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Some other thoughts...

    I would simply plug a voltage monitor into the cigerette lighter and see what the voltage is doing when the problem occours. (Walmart carries this voltage-monitor in the auto section for less than $20)

    I would also clean and tighten all the connections for the +12 distribution. This is located ON TOP of the battery.
  • I have had electrical problems with my 06 Jetta from the time I bought it brandnew with 2 miles on it. The EPC light goes on and off the Check engine light goes on and off. Pretty much every light in that car has gone flickery. I have been dealing with arrogant people at the volkswagon dealership for almost 5yrs. The car has been in their shop over 20 times for the same problems. Ive had power steering go out in which vw kept my car for 2 months and had to order a new steering wheel. I've been told the last 5 times in which they just wiped the code and gave me the car back only for the problem to return again, and for them to tell me it is a phantom code. I am a firefighter/medic that needs reliable transportation volkswagen people depend on me to be at work. just alittle vent back to the problems. Recently on my way to work i start going 1st then 2nd then 3rd then the car takes a crap and shuts off. Very unsafe my firetruck is older then this car and has less problems. I missed work from that one. Volkswagon seems to be great people to give you the run around. Also, everytime i take my car to their dealership they charge 108.00 just to look at the car doesn't matter if its under warranty. So, the problem they told me this time #30 The wiring harness has to be replaced along with the purge valve also I have had to replace the battery 3 times since i bought the car new. The car would not go over 20 mph and that was with the pedal pushed to the floor. They say it is a gas saver. well with bills that total 1,000 dollars almost everytime you go in. Do you think that is savings? I will not name the dealer but will say I wish they would do their job right in the first place because as a firefighter/medic i'm scrutinized 24/7 for people looking for one slip up. If i'm able to get rid of this car after i pay the 888.00 this time i will. Also, if your looking to get extended warranty DONT not because the car is a piece of crap, but because dealing with a third party warranty something the Great VW wont tell you is extended is not through them it is through third party. Anyways Third party will give you the run around until your blue in the face, they will argue with vw to say your not in the system to telling you that your extended expired even after you show them the paper work with the date you bought the car and the extended warranty. All in All I will have to say that my only way to get rid of the problem is to get rid of the car. Also, I will never buy a vw again. I have a 20 yr old chevy that has had less problems then this vw jetta 06. list of problems still going,
    Steering wheel replaced
    all lights in car on airbag, check engine, steering wheel light, cars a/c shutting off, the wiring harness has to be replaced, battery draws a charge from some where, radio faulty electrical, dash lights faulty electrical, ignition coils replaced, EPC light comes on and the car shuts off doesn't matter if your going 65mph or 20mph still the car shuts off pretty nice when all electrical shuts off in rush hour traffic including engine. I've done all regulary scheduled maitenance and have paid the car off, but am at still a loss. As, a firefighter medic I have to give great customer service in which i enjoy doing no matter if people are cussing or spitting on me i still keep my composure. But VW as a whole is really ticking me off. Bad customer service from VW and not correcting the problem even after 20 times in the shop and thousands of dollars spent and time lost from work. With all the problems I have read on here I would have to say that VW is a piece of crap and I will for warn everyone I know to not buy from VW.
  • you should look at lemon laws for your state. In NC we had a law that said if you've been to the dealer 5x for the same problem in a year and they cannot fix it, it's a lemon and VW owes you a new car. Of course, I had to write a letter to the Atty Gnl for the state, but it got me a new car very quickly. Just write VW North America the letter you sent your AG, and substantiate your proplems with receipts. You should get a new car. Look up lemon laws in your state.
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    anonymous478: My deepest sympathies for one of the worst lemons I have ever heard of. I have owned six Vdubs, most of them decent cars ('05 Jetta TDI wagon on of the best cars I have owned), but your horrid Jetta sounds far worse than even my '02 Passat 1.8T (probably the WORST car I have ever owned...constant CEL problems, failed CV boots and joints, coils, failed cat converter, premature brake wear, and the damn thing only has 89,000 miles). alohaveedub took the words right out of my mouth...you should have pursued your state lemon law long ago. Also, have you contacted VW of America directly, in writing? Vdub dealerships range from fairly helpful to outrageously bad...sounds like yours is the latter. To VW of America's credit, they DID provide reimbursement for most of the cost of my cat converter, since my bad coils were allowing unburned gas to contaminate and ruin it with less than 60k miles...so, sometimes they can be helpful. Good luck! vwdawg
  • I have a 02 VW Jetta GLS manual transmision 2.0. 121K. I have been having some electrical problems. When I take a left turn my headlights and radio/dash lights dim and sometimes completely cut out. This only happens when i turn Left or when i hit a bump in the road. If i am turning left and shifting gears during the turn then the dash lights and radio completely cuts out until i am done turning. This happens on every left turn but does not happen on right turns. I have taken it in to the VW dealer and they said that there was nothing wrong with it and "could not recreate problem" i have taken in to another mechanic and they acknowledged that there was a problem but could not find the source of the problem. Other than this problem the car is running just fine and no other weird electrical problems i have noticed yet. Any suggestions/solutions
  • southern_hicksouthern_hick Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    I have a bad ECU on a 1993 jetta gas 2.0 4 cyld can you replace it with a used one? I heard the vin number is in each one and you cant get one at a junk yard.....
    :confuse:
  • I am having same issues with 2005 Jetta 2.5. Even though the door is shut, the display shows it is open, therefore beeping alot. windows will not work, nor trunk or gas tank open!!
    One person tells me it is the wiring in the door and the dealer thinks it may be the door lock control module? Appreciate any feedback!!
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    mariacesta: I think I read in one of the past Passat or Jetta forums that there are microsensors in the door, and wires can eventually break. Someone posted a link that explained the problem as well as a fairly easy fix (if you are willing to do it yourself). Check past Edmunds postings. Good luck... vwdawg
  • I have a 2002 VW Jetta Gls, and i have a short somewhere. I have replaced my battery terminals(both), new battery, and had my alternator check and it was ok. It will run for a couple of days but for some reason it wont hold a charge. I am trying to fix it asap can anyone help me.
  • i dont know any of the terms used to describe vw parts or actions so bare with me, and please respond as delicately as possible. when i turn the key in the ignition of my 2009 vw jetta, it starts but immediately dies within 1 or 2 seconds and on the dash it reads "safe" i didnt happen to notice any other warning lights, because generally when i start the battery before starting the engine, all the warning lights come on and once i start the engine they go away, but now once the engine shuts off it reads "safe" and i havent been able to find answers regarding this warning light anywhere online. and i dont know any codes . i did however get in an accident a week before but the car had not been repaired or touched yet, it had been sitting. it had been moved twice by tow trucks but thats it. does anyone know why it is saying safe and how this can be resolved? ive read alot of about anti theft and immobilizer but i didnt happen to notice if there was a warning light of a car with a key. please any help would be great!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    What you describe is the security system kicking in. Also known as the "immobilizer".

    Your car thinks the key is NOT the original (correct) one for that car. You should try the other 2 keys which come with your VW (All VWs come with 2 normal keys and one 'valet' key)

    If you find any one key which works... then that key can be used to "reprogram" the 'bad' key so it is again recognized by the car.

    You could also try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and then retrying.

    I guess it is possible that the accident and towtrucks somehow did something... but I have never heard of the immobilizer to be affected in this way.
  • 2002 VW Jetta 4 cylinder 2.0turbo

    A brief description of the issue:

    Very frequently (almost every time) when the headlights are turned on, I hear a clicking coming from behind the instrument panel. From here the problem spreads:

    Power windows stop working
    Power sunroof stops working
    Hazard lights randomly blink
    Car alarm goes off (allthough it makes no noise now as the alarm horn is worn out from this issue)
    Interior lights flicker when turned on.
    Trunk opens.
    Auto lock from key button does not work
    Manually locking the doors unlocks all doors

    I have checked all fuses and none are blown. I have noticed the smaller fuses have some brown corrosion on them, I have since cleaned with wire brush but had no affect.

    Once the headlights are off, the problems persist for a random time length. Sometimes the next time I get in my car and turn it on everything works. Other times I have to disconnect the battery.

    This past weekend the issue came up again, only this time disconnecting the battery does not reset the functionality listed above.

    I spoke to my regular mechanic who wants to just replace the entire wiring harness at $800 + any unknown issues they might uncover. The car has 130k miles on it, and to be honest would think a better solution would be to replace the car before dumping this kind of coin into it.

    I am pretty handy when it comes to car mechanics, but I am no expert. I have done quite a bit of brakes, plugs, starters, cooling system repairs, tires, tie rods but never too much electrical.

    I talked to an automotive investigator, who stated it sounds like the body control module. I have done research on this and the only thing I can think to do is buy this unit and put it in, but don't want to spend unnecessary coin.

    Anyone see this behavior before?
    Any tips on what to test or look for to see if I can diagnose and repair myself?
    Any suggestions on how to resolve this outside of what was asked above?
    Are there any other sites or forums you could point me to that could be of further assistance?

    Thanks in advance!
  • I bought my 06 Jetta in October of 05 brand new. Intermittently for the past 6 months my brake lights go on overnight and drain my battery dead. I've also had issues with my moon roof popping open randomly. Since my car is out of warranty I don't want to bring it in for service for a fishing expedition. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • The problem with the brakelights is easily and cheaply fixable. RePlace the brakelight switch. The part is $10. If you can find somebody to put it in it takes 2 minutes. As for the moonroof I dont know.
  • the way your car dos that come from alternator problems check that out or fuse first
  • dont look for anything else that is brake switch above brake padel you need new one
  • td1970td1970 Posts: 1
    did you ever it get it resolved? have same exact issue with blowing 5amp fuses. wondering if you can save me some head ache. i did not see you receive any replies here.
  • wlmaywlmay Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 2006 Jetta. I bought it at a used car dealership therefore I have no warranty. Shortly after I bought the car the exhaust light came on. When I put gas into the car, only on total fill up, the car will not crank. I will have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there while turning the key in order to get it started. This occurs everytime I fill up. My driver's seat has now started moving by itself. This occurs all the time during driving, when idle, even when the engine is off and the key has been removed. Now my heating and ac unit is being temperamental, it works sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. After that started my radio will not turn on at all. It is a sirus, 6 disc cd player (no gps). My airbag light has now come on and the ac plugs no longer work. All of this occured within a matter of days. This is so frustrating because it is not under warranty and there is no dealership in my area that I can take it too. Does anyone have any advice?
  • wlmaywlmay Posts: 2
    No I havent figured it out yet.
  • brett29brett29 Posts: 1
    Hi I hit a bump with my jetta and now the trunk light has come on and my key wont open or lock the car what should i do Thanks
  • shriftyshrifty Posts: 255
    The same thing happened on my '09 Sedan, the result was from a loose connection with the child safety handle on the inside. Tightening it up resolved the issue. I'd recommend looking at this if you have it, otherwise it will require someone more knowledgeable than myself.
  • fordnutsfordnuts Posts: 19
    You need to replace the electrical door mechanism located in the driver's door. Had similar issue with '02 Jetta
  • celicatcelicat Posts: 1
    I have this problem now... I have to replace the trunk latch mechanism. The sensor stays on and doesn't latch properly. I turn the alarm on and try shutting the trunk until i hear the alarm beep. If that trunk light stays on, or the alarm doesn't go on as normal, it is not latched properly and could possibly open while driving. Slamming doesn't seem to help. Sometimes jiggling the emergency release handle inside the trunk helps...

    I should just get it fixed... but i'm delaying the 150-ish in charges...
  • kes4kes4 Posts: 2
    Did you find a solution to your problem? We have almost the exact same problems happening. Turn car lights on, trunk pops open. Sunroof not working, windows won't go up and down, car alarm occasionaly sounds. Any feedback on how you fixed would be appreciated.
  • Windows will not open sunroof not working fuse is not blown, It is for a Volkswagon Jetta 2000. Need help
  • Windows will not open sunroof not working fuse is not blown, It is for a Volkswagon Jetta 2000. Need help
  • So, I bought a 2004 VW Jetta GLS with 103K mi on it. NO warranty or anything. So, I regularly do the tuneups, check tires, etc. I do my best to keep my baby clean and well maintained. I now have around 115K miles on it. But, just recently my instrument cluster says one of my doors are open. I close all the doors, the trunk, and even the hood of the car. And it will go away but after driving for a little all my lights come on and it says one of the doors is open. I still have the same manufacturer battery. But, I never had any problems starting the car. Any suggestions you guys? Or has this happened to any of you guys? Thanks :D
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The electrical switches for the doors are contained within the latch mechanism inside each door. I believe there are 3 micro-switches per door. The onboard computer can tell if each door is open/closed/locked....etc

    If any one of the 3 switches goes bad, then the computer can get confused. Sometimes, the alarm-system starts to act up...Other times, the auto-locking system gets wonky.

    In any case, it is not unheard of for this to happen. There are several websites which have step-by-step instructions to pull the door apart. Or you can take your car to a shop for repair.
  • eros1eros1 Posts: 2
    92,diesel,changed alternater and battery,cleaned all terminals,checked fuses and relays,still getting low voltage 12.29,also tach does not work,it will flicker but then goes to 0,
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You made some statements... but did not ask any questions. I will assume you meant to ask how to troubleshoot an alternator.

    It is pretty simple with a voltmeter and some basic electronics knowledge.

    The voltage-regulator is built-in to the alternator. It is supposed to regulate the voltage at about 14.8 volts while the engine is running.

    Your 12.3 volts sure sounds as if the alternator is not even in the circuit. Are you *certain* that the fuseable-link between the alternator and the battery is not burned out?

    hint: measure voltage-drop between alternator output and battery+. There should never be more than 500mV across this wire.

    Also verify ALL of the ground connections under the hood. Make certain that all measurements from battery- to all other grounds is never more than 300mV.
  • So my 2005 Jetta TDI is in the dealership today after I had to tow it yesterday. For the last 3-4 weeks, I've been experiencing constant "flickering" of the headlights and internal lights while the car is on. Yesterday, the car seemed to be hesitating while accelerating. After about 45 minutes of driving, the engine completely shut off while it was rolling and all power lost temporarily. The starter still cranks, and all the internal electric were still operating after the stall, but the engine would NOT fire again, for at least an 45 minutes after the stall. I had a tow truck tow the car to the dealership and it was left on the lot. Later yesterday afternoon, I get a call from the dealership and they say the car is starting and running fine, no issues at all.

    I had originally figured the Alternator could be at fault, but the dealership says the alternator was "fine". The battery is brand new and cranks hard. But I keep thinking and mentioning to the dealership the flickering light issues. I'm worried I have an electrical issue, obviously, but don't know what to do or to ask the dealer to do for me. They seem to want to give the car back to me, but I'm worried about taking the car back without getting answers to why the car wouldn't start for an hour yesterday. All I'm hearing from them is "we can't recreate the problem".

    Can any electrical experts on this page give me some suggestions as to what you'd do in my situation? Car at dealer, running but with symptoms, and they are not giving me a clear picture of what the next step should be.

    Thanks for any assistance.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Your dealership must be boneheads.... most automobile electrical systems can be easily troubleshot with a voltmeter.... heck, it is simply a 12 volt DC system.

    With that said, I am not sure what you mean by the term "flickering" -- are you suggesting that all the lights are TOTALLY going out and back on... or are they simply getting dimmer/brighter ?

    Does it happen with the engine OFF -or- ON?
    Sittiing still -or- idling?
    When reving engine?
    when going over bumps?
    When accellerating?
    When braking?
    ....etc, I could ask 10 more questions to help isolate your issue.

    If your dealership did not ask these questions, they have no clue what they are dealing with in the first place.

    Also, VWs have voltage monitors all over the system built right in. One could hookup a computer to your car and DRIVE it while logging various key voltages in realtime.

    Again, if your dealership has not done any of this - they are poorly-trained and not worth paying.
  • I've been servicing my wifes 2004 GL 2.0 since new and been driving it (75K)since we got a newer car for her. She complained that the car would not start sometimes; but wait 45m- 1hr later no problems. This happened to me one sunday after driving 35 mi, stopping for 2 hrs and "no start". This happened actually twice. 1st time tried everything remove the inlet hose by throttle, checked elec throttle plate, checked battery and fuses. all was okay waited for 2 hrs, started with no problems. I changed the fuel filter (1st time since new) 2nd time same schedule and location "no start". This time I saw someone on YouTube unpluged the fuel pump fuse (by the driver door) and turn on ignition switch then reinserted the fuse. and re-started the car. I tried it; and it worked! So that told me this is related to the elec wiring! The third time; I notice that when I turn the ignition switch on I can hear the fuel pump come on "normal" #1 clue; when it will not start - no fuel pump noise = no power at the pump. I also notice the door light stopped coming on at night when I open the door (note if you use the remote entry key the light will come on), test this by leaving door open and testing the door switch #2 clue. I've looked at "ALL DATA" at the local library and notice that there's a special Fuel pump relay under the driver foot well, under the steering wheel area. VW wanted $400.00 to fix the door/interior light; which might be associated with this problem. I'm going to spend $45.00 on the fuel pump relay. Wish me luck. Next prob is fixing the traction control light- Dealer wants $600 to fix steering wheel sensor.
  • kes4kes4 Posts: 2
    Update on my jetta electrical issues. Mechaninc found that battery was running mostly at 12.8 volts and should be 14.4. He removed our aftermarket radio and cleaned and tightened all connections- there was corrosion on wires under battery tray. After that, he found the battery was running at 14 which was much better. However, it still dips down slightly when car idles or decelerates. Investigation on web has shown that the ABS/traction control lights are sensitive to voltage. This was 3 weeks ago. All electrical problems have ceased. However, we have gotten the ABS/traction lights 3 times while idling. The mechanic suggested that I may want to replace the alternator if the abs/traction control gets worse. He suspects that will prevent the voltage from going down when idling or decelerating.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited November 2011
    Have you tried removing/cleaning all ground connections you can find?

    Additionally, the connections to the voltage-regulator should be removed/cleaned.

    Also, I am formally trained in electronics. When someone says they measured xxx Volts, this is NOT a satisfactory statement. First of all... what are you using as your ground-reference point? (it may make a HUGE difference)

    Here is a typical example of what I have found on several automotive electrical systems...

    SYMPTOM: Voltage measured across battery terminals is less that 14 volts.
    HOWEVER: The voltage regulator *thinks* it is properly regulating at 14.8 volts.
    REAL PROBLEM: The negative wire between battery - and voltage-regulator has over 2 volts of 'drop' across it - hence, the 'reference point' for the regulator is off by 2 volts.... this is the reason the voltage at the battery is off by 2 volts.

    BOTTOM LINE: if the alternator is putting out ANY voltage, a 'low voltage across battery' problem is likely NOT an issue with the alternator itself. Instead, consider troubleshooting the VOLTAGE REGULATOR. (which happens to be screwed into the rear of the alternator.)

    Why is this? Because the voltage-regulator is really controlling the alternator and telling the alternator what voltage to put out. If the voltage is wrong, it is the REGULATOR which is likely the problem. (or connections to it!)

    In rare cases, one of the rectifier diodes inside the alternator may fail... I believe these too are replaceable without having to pay for a new alternator.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Oh - You can purchase a "voltage monitor" from WalMart which plugs into your cigarette-lighter socket. (It is under $20)

    With this device, you can leave it plugged in while driving around. Your PASSENGER can monitor it to see what your electrical system is doing while you drive.

    Voltage should be over 14 at all times the engine is running. If not, locate where the voltage-drop is and fix it. (easier than baking a pie...which I could not do with 2 chefs at my side)
  • bpeebles,

    Thanks for addressing my question. It seems the dealership service center isolated it to a corroded battery terminal that wasn't getting proper voltage. They cleaned the terminals and things seem to be going ok since they did that. They also replaced the fuel filter to help with the hesitation, and things seem stable. Thanks again for your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It is good to hear your "flickering" problem was a simply dirty battery terminal. It is too bad they did not check for this simple thing initially.

    I do not understand how corroded battery terminal caused 'stalling'... but I have seen stranger things than that. (Like bearings wearing out because engine was not electrically grounded - All the electric current was passing thru the bearings!!)
  • Hello, I have a 2005 VW Jetta 2.5. I just bought the car two weeks ago and am trying to work through the few kinks it has. I am trying to diagnose the reason my climatronic system is acting the way it is. The temperature read-outs do not display and the lights do not light up, most of the time. It will then be noticeably flickering if you turn the headlights on and drive around. It seems that as the two weeks have gone on, the flickering has happened more often and just tonight, the temperatures started to display. I have no idea what is going on. I thought it was a faulty climatronic unit, until this happened tonight.

    I believe it is likely some kind of electrical wiring issue or something. My headlights and overhead lights will occasionally get dim and then light back up to the original brightness. Also, for no explainable reason, once I turn the car OFF and have taken the key out, I can still click the power button on the factory radio unit and it turns on and plays just like the key were in.. Ideas?? I'm in desperate need of some help here!

    Thanks in advance!
  • The flickering lights/gauges that light or don't light sound like the voltage regulator is bad. I had a VW that did the same thing, whereby the headlights would dim, then get brighter, then dim etc. It actually burned out the headlights a couple of times.

    Have your favorite mechanic do a thorough electrical system check on the car.

    As for the radio, VW's used to wire the radios so they would be operational even when the car is off. I would either check you owner's manual on the radio operation, or the "accessory" setting function when you have the key in the ignition, but only turned one "click" so accessories will operate. It may tell you under what conditions the radio will operate. If you can't find any information, check with a service department at a VW dealer.

    Hope you enjoy your Jetta. Our family has 2 Jettas, and we thoroughly enjoy each one!

    Bel Air Car Guy
  • hi did you find out what was wrong with your jetta? im having the same problems with mine. the radio blinks, the alarms go off when i try to get out.. the car shuts off when im at stoplights... im so frustrated with this car now but i want to know what the problem is... so if you got yours fixed let me know what the problem was
  • Just recently after a rain storm my 2003 Jetta 2.0L GL has been acting up. When I switch on the left turn signal, the (ASL) Automatic Shift Lock starts engaging/disengaging with the rhythm of the turn signal indicator. The left tail light flashes normally, but the reverse light glows a little as well. Now, with the left turn signal on and when I press on the brake at the same time, the turn signal indicator flashes faster, along with the ASL solenoid engaging/disengaging at the same rhythm of the faster turn signal indicator and my tail light does some crazy light show with all the bulbs on the left tail light flashing. Note: None of these problems occur with the right turn signal. Also, the same issue occurs when I activate the hazards. So somewhere I have a crossed circuit, but I have no idea where. Is there a particular relay where these two circuits meet that could be malfunctioning? Since it's messing with all the bulbs in the tail light, I'm thinking its a wire connector somewhere that got wet or something of the sort. I have torn apart a small portion of my dashboard underneath the steering column to get to the wiring harness's and other hidden relays. Does anyone possibly have a solution or a place for me to start checking to resolve this issue?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Obviously a bad ground connection somewhere.

    If it were my vehicle, I would clean-up EVERY ground connection I could find.

    By "clean up" I mean
    1) Remove screw holding down the wire-terminator
    2) use Dremel-tool to bare the metal where the connection is made
    3) Also use Dremel to clean up the termination itself
    4) Solder the wire to the termination.
    5) Reassemble

    Since I have the shop manual for the 2003 Jetta, I have the advantage of knowing where all the ground-connections are as well as all the electrical schematics. With some studying, I could isolate the problem to the specific connector which is the issue.
  • I am having some of the same issues as well. I too have a 97 Jetta GL and my power locks aren't working proper, I tried replacing ALL the fuses but it didn't help. I would try to take the door panel off and see if you can't find an issue.

    good luck!

    cody
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    This has been answered several times in the past. Proper use of the "search" function would isolate the answers.

    For your convenience, I will summarize here:

    The microSwitches inside the doors tend to wear out and start sending false signals to the computer. (ie... The door is OPEN and CLOSED at the same time, -or- the door is LOCKED and UNLOCKED at the same time... etc) The computer can respond in unexpected ways.

    The proper "fix" is to tear into the door and replace either the individual switch or the entire circuit-board contaqining all the switches.

    Personally, when my wife took her Jetta in to the dealer and found out it would be several hundred dollars to "fix", she decided to use the key in the door instead of the remote from now on. Hence far, using the key in the door has been able to lock-n-arm the alarm for her.

    If you wish to tackle the problem yourself, there are several websites with step-by-step photos showing how to tear door apart and replace the $7 switches.

    BTW: I know for a fact that the problems with my wife's Jetta started the day after the window was left open during a downpour. Apparently, water got into the 'wrong' place and has been a problem ever since.
  • caneelcaneel Posts: 3
    Jetta 2011 TDI... since it has gotten colder on the east coast, when I leave my Jetta out at night, the driving lights will turn on at some time during the night. IF I park it in an enclosed garage, they don't. VW Princeton updated the computer, but nothing has changed. Still in need of a mechanic or exorcist.
  • You're not alone. My wife's 2011 TDI does the exact same thing (four times now). She parks it outside at work and luckily it's started every time...so far.
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