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Pontiac Grand Am Starting/Stalling Problems
I've got a 1996, 4 cyl. grand am that will not start. I've replaced the battery and starter already and it's still doing the same thing. Basically it won't turn over fast enough to get the car started. It wears down a fully charged battery in one start, and the wires/starter get warm/hot to the touch as well. I've replaced the battery terminals when I put a new battery in so I would think it is making good contact. Even putting jumper cables on doesn't help. I'm wondering what would cause the battery to go dead after one start, could it be a short in the battery cables somewhere? Or a bad alternator? or? I've already put almost $200 into the car trying to fix the problems, so I'm getting desperate. Any help would be greatly appreciated. If you need more info just let me know.
Thanks in advance,
Steve
Thanks in advance,
Steve
0
Comments
Help?? :sick:
Check all the ground straps on the engine and make sure they are in good condition and making good contact. Then look at the battery cables going to the starter and anywhere else they might go. Look for cracks, burn marks or any bare wire exposure. If you charge the battery and leave it in the car without trying to start it does it hold a charge? If not then either the battery is bad or you have a short.
Check the cable going to the Altenator for any sign of wear, abrasion, etc. It is also possible the regulator in the altenator is bad and not switching correctly. You can have it checked for free at most auto parts stores.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help though!
You should probably have it inspected. If it was me I would have Pontiac look at it, that's the only place I have received continual competent service (when I need it). It may different for you though, depending on the dealer service in your area.
2 weeks ago, i had to work on my 2004 GA GT. Left the ignition in the ON position for 20min tops. Turned it off, tried to crank (click, click, click), had to then jump the car.
Since then i've had the occasional day where it would hesitate to turn over right away, but giving it 2-3 seconds it would crank.
Then just yesterday, I tried to crank and it took about 5-6 seconds to actually turn over and run.
Next, turned it off, tried to crank it again and nothing turned. All light, interior, head, dash, all came on. I could hear the relays click, and the fuel pump engage. But no engine crank.
I tested fuses all were good, I tested the battery..fine, replaced it anyway. Found the starter, Turned the ignition on, crossed the solinoid, heard the starter spinning. While crossing the solinoid, i tried to turn it over, but nothing happend.
My conclusion is it could be the starter. Can anyone confirm i could be correct, or if there may be anything else i could check before replacing.
TIA!!
ADAM
My boyfriend thinks the throttle position sensor needs to be replaced, my friend, Marvin, thinks its something else, maybe a transmission electrical relay problem, the engine is getting too much gas, etc. I have noticed that the car is using more gas than normal but the RPMs are a little messed up due to this problem so that might explain the extra gas usage. Worst case scenario its the fuel pump but the problem doesn't seem to be that. We replaced the spark plugs and the boots and the fuel filter and that nothing for the problem.
Any help with this would be great!!!
Thanks
Kat :sick: :confuse:
Sometimes the car starts normally, but most of the time it doesn't. Sometimes it just needs a little gas to start (much like what erc2 described in post #11). Sometimes it takes 2 or 3 tries before the car will start. Recently, however, the lights inside of the car (dash, radio, etc) have been doing strange things when I try to start the car (sometimes blinking, sometimes coming on and then going out, sometimes not coming on until I've put the car into reverse or drive).
The car runs fine once I manage to get it started....
Any ideas what the source of the problem could be? Though I know I should take it to a mechanic/dealership, I'm a little concerned about what the price tag that's connected to the problem/repairs might be....
I just bought this car a few days ago for $900, and I thought I was getting a good deal because the body and engine seemed decent. When I test drove it the only problem I noticed was that the instrument cluster was inop. Every light is stuck on, none of the guages work, but the odometer does work.
The day after I bought it there was what I thought a major tranny slip, so I put some Lucas Trans Fix in, no go. Put new plugs in, no go. Every single time when I accelerate from a stop or park I get some major sputtering and misfiring, but then it catches and is fine until I get around what I think is 60-70mph (speedometer is inop) and it sputters/misfires some more. Once I'm driving for 15 minutes+ and come to a stoplight, the car idles really low/really rough and will shutoff. It does start right back up, but I just have to crank the ignition a little longer than normal. Now when I come to a stop I put it in neutral and do a brake stand to prevent it from shutting off, but it still sputters when I start to accelerate. Is there a dial somewhere that regulates how much gas the engine gets while idling? Would notching that up help?
I took it to the local GM dealership to get diagnostics done, and all that showed up was:
P0300 Misfire, P0335 Crankshaft Sensor, and P0341 Camshaft Sensor. They said to replace those sensors I'm already up to $220 and that wouldn't guarantee a fix, not to mention the cluster problem they said would cost $300+, so I paid the $80 diag fee and left. At autozone the cam and crank sensors are $19 each. I called a junkyard and they told me $30 for the cluster, but they said that it could just be bad wiring or a ground.
Now I do have a buddy who will put all 3 of those in for "50% of what a shop charges." For you mechanics out there, about how much is that? He is somewhat of a rookie mechanic, but he can do it if he knows exactly what to replace. Is there anything specific I can tell him to look for regarding fuses or the wiring and grounds behind the cluster so I don't have to drop that $30? Neither of us really know much about electrical problems, but is that rather simple?
Sorry for the long post, but I just don't want to spend hundreds of dollars for nothing. Is there anything else it could be? I saw a post here that was similar to my problem and a new EGR valve and vacuum hose fixed it. I really don't want to replace hundreds of dollars worth of stuff if I don't have to.
I think the dealership's diagnostics were a ripoff. They didn't even look into the cluster problem, they just told me to replace it. I think I'll try Autozone's free diagnostics. If something comes up I'll post it shortly.
THANKS!!!
NOW .. with a new battery a few weeks ago I had it just not start the other day.. The dash got power and all things electrical .. Lights,, dash, horn, etc all worked but it would not turn over .. no clicking and no half turns or chattering. Just a low hum. after numerous attempts, even by my mechanic..had it towed to the shop and now IT STARTS JUST FINE!!! what is up with that. ???????
I have driven the snot out of Pontiacs since 1967.. I have had 2 Grand Ams with no horrible problems.. Now this. HELP
I will have to see what a kill switch is .. (I wish I still had my 65 GTO.. at least it was a lot simpler to work on) My problem last year just started to get worse and as I said turned out to be the ignition switch and they can go bad again but no one wants to touch the problem... So far it has not done it again.. Maybe if I had Onstar they could suss it out.. or not. thanks for the reply pooh
When cold starts perfectly, when warms up idle is rough and when I step on the gas a bit then dies.
I checked the code it shows 22, which is Throttle sensor, but I check it with and it is properly giving 0.6V with throttle shut and increases to 5.2Volts with openning.
Please help what can be wrong next.
Thanks, Milan
My next step is to see if I can't figure out if the diagnostic system is throwing codes. I see from the little reading that I did that rough idle is not uncommon for these cars but don't understand why. If everything is and has been maintained properly, 52K should not be a big deal, at all.
My only concern is that my wife may end up stranded somewhere because her car won't start. I'm loosing the confidence I had in it and am about ready for that new car smell again. j/k
I'll post my solution if and when I come up with one. If anyone has any suggestions that may save me time and money, it is appreciated.
I'm going to take the time this weekend to change the thermostat and flush the radiator. I was going to last weekend but didn't realize that I was going to have to take the throttle body off to get to the thermostat. I think I'll change the radiator cap as well just for kicks. I've read some post that seemed to suggest that the overflow bottle cap looses it's ability to hole pressure over time and causes the cooling system to not work right. In fact, I think I'll change that tomorrow so I'll be able to tell if that is indeed the problem.
I'm still having trouble with the idle at start up and am going to run some sea foam through the gas to see if it won't clean up some problems for me. I'll do that tomorrow too in the hopes that I can solve all my problems in 15 minutes.
I'll post back with results.
I did notice something when she started it up this time. The belt was slipping for a few seconds until all the accessories started to turn. Could the water pump be crapping out on me? I'll have to give it a test when I have the car apart.
I am afraid that all new cars have been way overengineered..and electronics being the most sensitive thing will go first..with no warning..If there is a sensor dectected I guess you might as well swap it out as it will fail at some point. Not like in the good old days when you could tell if your carberator was out of sync. I used to have a Brilliant mechanic where I used to live who had a second sight on these things, but all auto manufacturers are making it difficult for the independent to operate. I even heard of a person who changed the battery in their Lincoln and it would not start.. Had to reset the computer.. and only the dealer did that. phooey..
My problem with going to Autozone is, if it has not thrown a code .. as my problem did not.. I can't get it there if it isn't running and if it is it does not seem like it can be detected. sigh.. ep
Besides the terrible trend towards making our cars maintenance schedule secret information, we're now facing the possibility of built in faults so that either we buy the extended warranty or we pay out the nose.
My owners manual says change the Dex Cool at 5 years or 150K. All the reading I've done says that 5 years is about the time the stuff turns to a sludge consistence and starts causing problems with head gaskets. At the very least, MANY people have had to have their radiator flushed just to keep their car running. An unfortunate few have even had to have their head gaskets replace as a result of this product.
A lot of people are suing GM and a nation wide class action has just been turned down by the courts. Not because it wasn't justified but because it would have been so complicated to implement. I sure hope this unscrupulous behaver doesn't go unpunished.
At the very least, cover the out of pocket expenses for all the trouble this little scam has caused. We should, and probably will address some antitrust laws to see if GM should have criminal charges brought against them.
This post is a mix of personal opinion and info from various blogs. I hold it to be true but your experience may very. I'm going to flush the radiator myself and I am never again setting foot on a GM car lot. I tried to give American cars a chance but nooooooooo!
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/08/gm_dexcool.html
The head gasket explains the rough idle, the over heating, the missing on one cylinder, the white smoke out the tale pipe, the loosing coolant.
My call to the dealership was very telling. They have no intention of covering the cost or admitting that a problem exist. Bastards!
Thanks
Thanks in advance.
any other problems might be, an O2 Sensor, or dirty Fuel Injectors, or you mass airflow sensor is bad or dirty, you should be able to pop it off and clean up the wire on the MAF Sensor, you should see that it runs better off... if anything unplug the O2 Sensor, located on the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine, and test it with a regular tester, put the red into the O2 Sensor, and the black on the Engine, it should read .50 or .56 somewhere in that region if its not, you have a bad sensor and that cold cause some staling...
I hope some of this info is helpful in making you satified... Also check this info out to make sure this is not your vehical...
1993 PONTIAC GRAND AM Recall ID from NHTSA: 93V153000
Auto Recall Date: 19930914
Vehicle Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM:IGNITION:SWITCH
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 1103
1993 PONTIAC GRAND AM Defect Summary:
THE NEUTRAL START SAFETY SWITCH COULD HAVE BEEN FRACTURED DURING INSTALLATION.
Defect Consequence:
A FRACTURED SWITCH CAN RESULT IN A NO-START CONDITION. ALSO, A VEHICLE WITH A FRACTURED SWITCH CAN BE STARTED IN GEAR, CAUSING THEVEHICLE TO MOVE UNEXPECTEDLY, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN AN ACCIDENT.
Remedy:
THE DEALER WILL REPLACE THE NEUTRAL START SWITCH. THE MANUAL SWITCH OF THE AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE ASSEMBLY WILL BE INSPECTED AND REPLACED IF AN OVERSIZED CONDITION EXISTS.
Notes: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Jay-Mann
Here is my issue. Last Thursday I was driving home from work and the low collant light came on, however the car was not running hot just a tad above normal. On my way home I stopped and bought some collant. The next morning I went out to start up my car and it started fine. I went back outside about 10 min later to put the collant in and it was no longer running. Thinking nothing of it i popped the hood and proceeded to put in the collant. Well i must not of read the container because it was the sort of collant that you have to mix with water so it came out pretty thick...too late i had already put in half a bottle. So then I decided to fill up the collant reservour with water. OK now i go to start the car and almost started but then stopped i try again sort of the same thing. Now it is Wednesday and my car wont start...I seriously doubt that it is the battery and a friend thinks it is the fuel pump.....any thoughts? If it is the fuel pump does anyone know where it is located?
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
Frustrated in Texas!
Thanks!