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Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • My sister hit the garage with her 96 explorer. The glass fell out of the right side mirror and broke. She asked a dealer about replacing the glass and they told her the whole unit has to be replaced for $300+. I looked at what is left in the mirror housing and can see a black plastic bracket that looks like was attachment point. That part looks broken off. When the tilt control is activated on the dash, white threaded holes rotate - looks like threaded rods attached to the glass would provide the movement in and out. My sister lost all the loose parts. She can't afford the dealer fix. She could just tape a stick-on mirror on the housing. I offered to look into a better fix but can't find any info. I can get a replacement unit for about $100 but do not know what to take apart to do the replacement. Someone said I would have to take the dash apart to feed the controls through. Does anyone have instructions or hints on how I can do this easily?
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Two ideas:
    1. Buy a whole replacement mirror from a salvage yard and buy a technical service manual for the 96 Explorer. That should show you how to do it. I thinkthe book is $20 at the dealer. The Haynes book does not really go into the mirror assembly.

    2. Buy a single mirror at Autozone or other auto parts store. It should be the type with mounting tape on its back, so you can just stick it on the remaining part of the mirror. Should be at most $25.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Well, the dealer installed the parts today...window run and upper door moulding. Total for parts was ~$100; labor was ~$120. waited 2-1/2 hours for the truck, got it back, drove 1/2 mile and the noise is still there (even though they road tested and said it was gone).

    Going to go to the Sears hardware store on the way home and try to get the star socket mazman referred to and see if the door latch posts are loose. It certainly couldn't hurt.

  • I have a question about the theft/panic alarm on my 2000 Explorer. I remember on my 2 previous Explorers that if you reached through an open window to unlock a door (manually or hitting the power switch) and then opened a door, the horn would start to honk. I did this the other day in my truck, and nothing happened. Anyone know if this is how it is set up or am I just remembering wrong about it?

    PS...Good luck to Ryster on the door rattle...I can't stand rattles in a car.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Some advice if you are going to work on the latch posts.

    1. Mark the current position with a marker or paint. "Liquid Paper" works fine as well. Mark both the vertical and horizontal. That way, you can always find the exact position where the bolt was before you started.

    2. You may get some benefit from loosening the bolt and moving it (it can move about 1/4" in all directions) either inboard or outboard a bit. Too far in,and the door will not latch properly. Too far out, and the latch will engage, but the door will not be snug enough against the rubber mouldings so that it will rattle. Then tighten, and test if the door closes correctly. It took me several trial and error passes before I got it to a position where the door locked easily and the noise was gone. You don't need to move the post a lot to get a remarkable improvement.

    3. My family has this problem, and maybe others do as well. Don't slam the doors! I think that continuously slamming the doors knocked the latch posts out of alignment. That's why, even though the driver's door gets the most use, the problem was on the passeger doors, which get slammed (abused) the most.

    Good luck.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    My alarm, dealer installed, will activate whether I open the door from the inside or outside. What I found does disengage the alarm (other than the key FOB) is the driver door keypad.

    It may not be a problem with the alarm or the install. It may just be the way the system works.
    I know that I would not be crazy about it if I could deactivate the alarm by snaking a coat hanger thru the door moulding to the door's unlatch mechanism and unlocking the doors and deactivating the alarm.

    That's probably why alarms are useless to everyone except for the insurance company discount. Starter and fuel pump cutoff switches are the way to go.
  • Thanks for the ideas on side mirror.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Hi mazman1,

    Thanks for the info on the door posts. I checked mine and they are seated very tightly; no looseness.

    What did your door rattle sound like? Mine is like a loud popping noise and the driving conditions which set it off can vary. I may get no noise on rough or coarse pavement, but hitting a slight dip on fresh pavement or rippled pavement may set it off. It is a very sharp pop. Is this the noise you were hearing?

    I am still not convinced there isn't something loose inside the door (like the power window motor; or the actual mounting of the door latch inside the door.)

    If I decide to play around with the latch post some more, how close to the "cradle" on the black bracket should the post be? I Have noticed that the latch post on my driver's door is noticeably farther outside the black bracket "cradle" area than the other doors. It seems hard to believe that there is such a minute tolerance on these posts to cause the door to rattle, but I am ready to try anything!

    Also, which Torx socket did you purchase? The hardware store had several. (T50, T51, etc.) Was it 3/8 size?

  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I believe the socket was either a T47 or a T50. And it was a 3/8 inch drive size. I have a lot of sockets that came in a set. But that's what I remember.

    Regarding the noise sound, It was a definite rattle. It was caused by the post being loose and the door was able to latch to it without completely sealing around the rubber seals of the door frame. What rattled was the lock mechanisms and the door itself, since it was able to move within the reach of the lock post.

    Before changing any post settings, mark the original locations, both horizontally and vertically, so that you can return the post to that setting later. You may want to experiment with loosening the post on the rattling door, move it inboard a little bit, and tighten.. to see if that helps reduce the noise. The door should be "snugger" against the rubber mouldings. You mayhave to find a good setting thruu trial and error. Too far out and the door will rattle. Too far in and you will not be able to close the door easily.

    I would also check the hinges. Is something loose there? Try top test if the door is loose on the hinge, or the hinge has a lot of play up and down (it should not have any). If the door is misaligned, there may be a problem with one or more of the door hinges.

    Good luck
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    I have lost all desire to continually trouble shoot and attempt to fix noises and other issues with this Explorer of mine. 11 months of ownership and 14,500 miles have worn on me to the point where I despise this vehicle. The dealer doesn't seem to know how to fix problems that the truck shouldn't even have in the first place.

    Tomorrow I am going to get up in the morning and do some serious car shopping. Dealer inventories are high and interest rates are low; it's now or never. I anticipate having to roll over approx. $1K into the new car to offset some serious depreciation, bit at 0-2.9% it is easier to swallow than at 6-7%.

    Thanks to all who have provided advice and recommendations about solving the Explorer issues. Have a great weekend!
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Okay, I know the above post indicated my surrender...but as I got about a block from home I decided to drive while holding the driver's door open. The noise is still there! It was not the driver's door at seems the popping noise is coming from the frame itself. This is certainly not a good sign. All of the mouldings are secure, and the running boards have been tightened. All I know is the noise was NOT there when the truck was new. It showed up around 5 or so months ago. Wonder what it is? Why didn't the dealer think to listen for the noise with the door open?!

    Well, if I can't work a trade on something tomorrow then I guess I will just keep searching for the source of the noise.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    This may not help, but I had a similar noise in my Outback. I could have swore it was coming from the dash area. Took it to the dealer and after a little bit of effort they determined that it was something dealing with the strut mount. It was a piece of metal flexing and popping. Maybe yours is something similar (yeah I know it doesn't have struts, but it does have shocks). It could also maybe be a bad weld somewhere. Good luck
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Hi...the dealer gets the truck AGAIN on Friday 11/2 for their third attempt at fixing the noise...I test drove a new '02 Saturn L200 this afternoon and am much better off with the Explorer...the Saturn rattled and creaked excessively with only 250 miles on the car (it was a demo). My Explorer is much more solid...I'll let you know how things go. Thanks!!
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    unless you count the dealers' service department ;)

    I periodically had a rattle that sounded like it came from just in front of the firewall as I drove... dealer hinked around with the power distribution box mounts and called it good. wrong. I finally found it when I was putting screen over the radiator to keep the bigger bugs from plugging the fins... left front brace screw to the vinyl cover on the 2000 exploder limited's bumper. screw was crossthreaded in its keeper nut, so I had to use two tools to get that one tight.

    now I have another rattle 1 year later, I think it's a similar fastener someplace around the centerline of the covered step on the left side. it's gonna be good warm weather tomorrow, so I'll get a blanket out and start torqueing penny-a-pound body bolts.

    I still have to figure out how to get the cupholder tray out of the console and get some vinyl or PVC foam between it and the rest of the console, there is an occasional squeak.

    no other untoward noises in my vehicle, just these. the console didn't make any noise until its first -20 days of last winter.

    moral: plastic stinks, big slabs of welded steel hold up better. imagine how PO'ed I would be if I'd gotten some little sardine can of a car :(
  • bioman3bioman3 Posts: 37
    Sounds like you are up against a very frustrating problem. Sometimes you have to think "outside the box". Have you considered having someone drive your Explorer while you hunt about the left side of the truck with a stethoscope? This is a great tool for locating the specific site of a noise. It works very well on engines- valve lifters, water pump bearing noise, etc. There is no reason why it can't help you locate the noise that is keeping you from enjoying your Explorer.

  • rysterryster Posts: 564

    This is a great idea! Thanks! Now I will have to search for a stethoscope. Maybe I can find an adequate toy stethoscope at Toys R Us or something. Real ones can run $80+ from what I understand and it really shouldn't be my responsibility to devote hours of my time and money when Ford should pay for it all under warranty. However, sometimes you have to literally hold the dealer's hand to get stuff done correctly ("check part A", "tighten part B", etc.)

    Let me run this by all of you - I notice that the roof rack rail (not the side bar) on the driver's side does not fit as snugly/flush as the passenger side. Do you think this could cause a popping noise? When I push on it, it clunks against the roof. Seems like a longshot, I know. I am contemplating going home tonight, unscrewing it, and attempting to remount it. It looks as though it uses standard Philips head screws. What do you guys think?

    Otherwise on Friday I will take it in and tell them to check the door latch post to make sure it is properly adjusted; make sure the latch itself is properly secured, check to make sure the door lock solenoid is clipped on securely, check to make sure the power window motor is mounted securely, etc.

    Thanks to all for your helpful suggestions! I do like the truck. I truly desire to keep it; just need that noise eliminated!!!

    I'll keep you posted on any and all developments :)
  • bioman3bioman3 Posts: 37
    Pursue the roof rack. It sounds like a good source for the noise. If that does not work, then the stethoscope might help. Stethoscopes are not as expensive as you think. Medical supply companies stock and sell them. An inexpensive one might cost about $10.00. IF you want to spend a bit more you can purchase an inexpensive sphygmomanometer kit (blood pressure kit)that will include a stethoscope. In addition to checking you truck you can then monitor your blood pressure (your Explorer sounds like it is casuing your BP to go up). I have found that when you go back to the dealer and "suggest" a solution to a problem, because you identified the source, your chances of resolving the problem will increase exponentially. Remember, you first have to diagnose the problem before it can be repaired. If you have done the diagnosis, let Ford make the repair while the truck is still under warrenty.

    God Luck!!

  • brekkebrekke Posts: 304
    Does anyone know if any of the parts for a 91 Navajo can be used for a 91 Explorer? I assumed they were interchangeable, I was told by an unreliable source (my SO) that they probably aren't.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    As a former Ford Parts person, I can assure you that the mechanical parts are identical. The only differences are in some body and interior trim parts. One thing to keep in mind if purchasing Mazda parts at a Ford dealer is that you will run into problems with warranty if something goes wrong. Ford requires a VIN number for all warranty parts and will not accept a Mazda VIN as valid. This is due to the fact that although they are under the same corporate umbrella, they are in reality 2 different companies as far as sales and support functions go.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    ...for the door popping noise.

    The dealer is starting to remember me and my truck. I guess that is what happens when you are there every 14 days or so ;)

    In any event, they are going to do more troubleshooting to see if they can properly diagnose and repair the noise. They admitted these noises are hard to find and push come to shove they could keep the Explorer for "a few days" and give me a car to use if that is what it takes. They are genuinely interested in getting it fixed, so I am pleased with them for that. They are probably anxious to get it fixed so I leave them alone :)

    I'll let you know what transpires from today's appointment.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564

    Yesterday's appointment only added more fuel to the fire.

    I got a call mid afternoon from the dealer telling me they have no idea what the problem is. They acknowledge there is definitely something making the noise, but they just can't fix it. I know have an appointment on 11/20 to take the truck back for "a few days". They give me a loaner and they call Ford directly for assistance with fixing my truck. They also said they "won't give it back to me until it is completely fixed". I asked what the odds are it would be fixed even with Ford's intervention to which they responded "we have had cars here for WEEKS that needed Ford's help, but they were eventually fixed". Wow...that's comforting.

    So, I go to pick up my truck only to have it given back to me with a severely twisted seatbelt, a broken trim piece, and a door panel that was not put back on correctly, in addition to the usual smudges of grease all over the panels. They were "kind" enough to fix the seatbelt on the spot, but had to order a new piece of trim to be installed at the next appointment. I didn't have the patience to deal with the ill-fitting door panel. As usual, after every appointment I have, I went home and cleaned the interior myself.

    I am so disgusted with the level of service I am getting. The dealer is making an effort, yeah great. They are also being careless. I want out of this truck desperately. Looked at a Mercury Cougar this morning...guess what...the driver's door creaked. I must have lousy luck with cars or something. EVERY car I have ever owned has developed a rattle or creak in at least one of the doors (they all developed dash rattles regardless of how long I owned the car).

    It is time for me to dump this nightmare truck. Ideally I would like a Toyota, Nissan or Honda but they do not have special financing right now. The only reason I have been looking at a domestic is to be able to get special financing to get out of the Explorer. It has a trade-in value of around $15K and I still owe $19.8K. Even with $3K down I would have to roll over ~$2K which is much easier to do at low financing rates.

    The moral of this story is no more Ford products. Quality is not Job One; nor is Customer Service.
  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    I have sent an inquiry to the top lemon law firm in this area. They handle both lemon law issues as well as restitution type settlements. In reviewing my records, I have been to the dealer 5 times for the popping in the door. 4 trips too many and many more to come from what I can surmise. I'll let you all know what, if anything, the law firm says about my case. Have a good weekend!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059

    Have you tried aiming higher on the Ford Co. food chain? Sometimes that has a miraculous influence on getting problems resolved.

  • Is it possible to go to another dealership? The service department at the one you are using soounds like a bunch of novices. There is no reason for you to get you truck returned to you in the condition you found it. If this is how they pay attention to details, no wonder they can't find out where the noise is coming from. If the noise is the only problem, you have to ask yourself: Is it worth the $3,000-$5,000 it will cost you to sell this Exlorer? Maybe it is time to start to get angry and start writing letters all over Ford land. Any letter you send to the Ford Corporate HQ, make sure you cc the owner of this dealership. I would speak to the service manager AND the owner at this dealership, in not so nice terms, and give them some grief about how your truck is being returned to you and their failure to find and repair this problem. Tell them that you are writing J.D. Powers, State Attorney General, and the Consumer Fraud Commission about all of the grief the dealership has put you through. If you can get J.D. Powers to hear you out you may put a real scare into the people at the dealership you are using. Good Luck and hang in there
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I hear that your are frustrated.. man I know how it feels to be treated poorly by the dealer, and besides not finding the problem they clean out your coin box. I have been there. And GM and Chrysler are no better. Actually, I think GM is worse.

    Regarding getting angry.. May I suggest don't. It may not help the situation, and it only raises your blood pressure. I personally have found that I "get more flies with honey than a flyswatter." I know that you just want to drive the truck through the front window of the dealership .. but that action will not help you. I have found that people respond to anger with anger, and at that point they stop listening to you and probably wont work with you to solve the probelm. You want them to act on your behalf to fix it, not scream back at you.

    Before going to the boss, or threatening them or writing to the Attorney General of your state, I would:
    1. Put in in perspective. The popping noise is a comfort issue.. not a drivability issue. These mechanics are usually good at finding problems with the major systems, so it is probably not something major that you have to worry about a wheel falling off. Do you want to take a hit of $3K or more just to get out of a vehicle with a pop or squeak?
    2. Is there another dealer that you can bring it to?
    3. Tell the Dealer's Service MANAGER or Shop Foreman how you feel before you go to this guy's boss and complain about him. I have found from personal experience that these guys are pretty helpful and many times do not know what their underlings are doing or saying. This also gives you more ammo when you have to step up the ladder higher. Play the role of the nice guy getting the runaround. You can always go to the boss later.
    3. There is a Ford Regional Representative you can contact, you can get that number from the dealer or by calling Ford corporate.
    4. If you want to go the lemon law route, then you have to have documented that you have been to the dealer at least 4 times for the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. A lot of the service managers are wise to this, so they word the complaint differently each time. You have to request forms from your State's BBB or Attorney General. You may get some mileage out of Ford Arbitration.
    5. A heart bypass can get very expensive, as can ulcers and high blood pressure. Dont let this get to you. Yeah, it is frustrating, but it is only a machine... and you can sell it or trade it at any time if you find it is making you sick.

    Good luck, man. I've been where you are.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Well said!

  • rysterryster Posts: 564
    Hi! I understand your points and they are very sound suggestions. But I am literally at my wits end with the truck:

    "1. Put in in perspective. The popping noise is a comfort issue.. not a driveability issue. These mechanics are usually good at finding problems with the major systems, so it is probably not something major that you have to worry about a wheel falling off. Do you want to take a hit of $3K or more just to get out of a vehicle with a pop or squeak?"

    It is not just a matter of a "pop or squeak". The noise is getting progressively worse to the point where I can not only hear the noise but feel something loosening up underneath me as well. Almost like the chassis or frame has a problem. Then again, it could be my brain responding to negative stimuli (because the noise is loud, my brain is processing a feeling with it) My personality is such that I simply have no patience or tolerance for such noises. There is also no concrete evidence that it is not becoming a driveability issue. The truck didn't do it initially, but now it does. If it turns out to be a weakened or bent frame I certainly want no part of a vehicle with such a defect. The vehicle has never been abused or off road so the frame should not have weakened. In fact, I go out of my way with any car I drive to avoid pothole strewn roads or very rough roads to prevent these types of noises from developing in the first place (that is how much I hate squeaks/rattles/pops.)

    "2. Is there another dealer that you can bring it to?"

    There are other dealers in the area, however their reputation is no better than the dealer I currently use. For example, my parents take their Mountaineer to a different dealer. It has a very bad idle problem (stutters and almost dies). They looked at it, cleaned the MAF sensor, and said it was fixed. My parents picked it up and it was still idling poorly. It goes back tomorrow for the second trip for the same problem. We are plagued by poor dealer service, regardless of manufacturer, in this area. Seems it is either an industry wide problem or we just have bad luck. In any event, I now have to get this dealer to undo all of the mistakes they made on Friday before I can start using another dealer. They still owe me a new trim piece to replace the one they broke, they need to reattach the door panel correctly, and I also found that they must have messed with the driver's seat belt as the screw that attaches the seat belt retractor unit to the B-pillar is not fully tightened. The screw is about one inch out of its hole and the washer is just sort of floating around on the screw. This, in my eyes, is a definite safety issue.

    "3. Tell the Dealer's Service MANAGER or Shop Foreman how you feel before you go to this guy's boss and complain about him. I have found from personal experience that these guys are pretty helpful and many times do not know what their underlings are doing or saying. This also gives you more ammo when you have to step up the ladder higher. Play the role of the nice guy getting the runaround. You can always go to the boss later."

    The shop foreman has been actively involved in getting my vehicle fixed. He has driven the truck with me in it to hear the noise and has been interacting with the mechanic and service advisor at my various appointments. In fact, he was the one that approved the supposed second fix on the third appointment. It has been my experience with vehicles in the past that contacting the higher ups gets nothing resolved whether it be a sales or service related issue. In fact it tends to make problems worse, as you suggest. At this point I think they are intentionally doing things to my truck as their way of demonstrating they are frustrated and sick of dealing with me and my truck.

    "3. There is a Ford Regional Representative you can contact, you can get that number from the dealer or by calling Ford corporate."

    This is a possibility depending on what the lawyer says. I have the phone number and address of my region's representative.

    "4. If you want to go the lemon law route, then you have to have documented that you have been to the dealer at least 4 times for the EXACT SAME PROBLEM. A lot of the service managers are wise to this, so they word the complaint differently each time. You have to request forms from your State's BBB or Attorney General. You may get some mileage out of Ford Arbitration."

    In this state is the same problem with no resolution after 3 tries. My truck has been back 5 times already. I have the repair orders and the dealer uses the same wording on each one. If the lawyer thinks I have a valid case, he will do all of the investigative work and filing for me.

    "5. A heart bypass can get very expensive, as can ulcers and high blood pressure. Don't let this get to you. Yeah, it is frustrating, but it is only a machine... and you can sell it or trade it at any time if you find it is making you sick."

    This is true, but again my personality is such that I cannot just accept it. That is what the dealer wants me to do. If I back down and just live with it, I am letting Ford get away with selling me a $30K truck with an acknowledged problem that they won't/can't fix. Trading it is the same thing. At this point, I just want the vehicle fixed properly or replaced. I also shouldn't have to take a potentially $6K hit simply because Ford or the dealers do not want to deal with me. They sold me the truck, they need to make good on it.

    Again thanks for all of your suggestions and advice. I have had a history of poor vehicles and service and this one certainly takes the cake. I do not think it is too much to ask to have the truck fixed properly. When it reaches the point where all of my paid time-off this year has been devoted to dealing with this vehicle (which it has so far) that is a definite problem. Granted, we all work to be able to afford the vehicle that takes us there. I do not work to also use my earned paid time-off from work to have the same vehicle serviced on a regular basis. One, maybe two, unscheduled service appointments a year is one thing. But a problem resulting in the vehicle going back 5 or more times for the same unresolved problem is unacceptable. Not to mention that I am becoming mentally tired and stressed to the point where I have no desire to shop for a new vehicle which should, to some degree, be fun to do.
  • Mazman you are right. You can get "get more flies with honey than a fly swatter". You should follow a chain of command and deal in a cool calm collected manner. But in this case I think Ryster has done that. If I am wrong I'll stand corrected. When I said "get angry" I guess I should have said "act angry". When you lose it and begin to act irrationally you are in the wrong. But if you doing it for effect, it can produce results when you have exhausted all other options. I am making the assumption that Ryster is at this point (yes, I know what happens when one assumes!!!). The dealership he is working with does not seem to be too concerned with the customer. Returning a vehicle to a customer, repeatedly, that has grease and dirt on it is not a sign of good customer care. In addition, returning the vehicle with the problem not resolved is an issue. Indeed, it is the major issue. It cost Ford and the customer. Ford paid for parts that it did not have to and the customer is still not satisfied. The fact that the problem is a comfort issue is not as important to the customer, Ryster, as that the fact that it is not resolved. Ryster's blood pressure is already up. He is very frustrated. He deserves better. Why should he have to have to "get an an ulcer"? In this case it is time for the people at Ford to get the ulcer. I guess we could all cite our horror stories with automobile dealership. The fact that we have a little knowledge about cars and their repair and maintenance makes us a bit more vulnerable to getting upset at the incompetence and/or ineptness and/or thoughtlessness of the people to whom we hve given many thousands of dollars. We expect them to know better! Why should the customer have to get rid of a vehicle and/or spend thousands of dollars to correct a situation that should be fixed, under warrenty, by the company selling the car. I think we could find beter ways to spent our hard earned money. Maybe some of us have done this, I know I have. That is the beauty of a place like Town Hall. We have the opportunity to share our experiences and give our input to help others solve problems.
  • I went down this road with Ford last summer (2000) with my '99 Explorer XLT. This truck was an absolute piece of Ford GARBAGE!!! That said, the truck went to the dealer something like 15 times in 14 months for Repairs ranging from warped rotors to a faulty windshield, to 3 sets of front end seals to ball joints in the front end (get the idea)...

    Anyway, I submitted a lemon law claim, and after a couple of loud arguments with the Sales and Service managers of my dealer, a win/win situation arose. My dealer offered to take my truck in trade for a 2000 model at a LOW cost. For my '99 and $3000 I got a 2000 brand new XLS. They wanted $6000 for the XLT. This included tax, title, etc.

    So I don't know what your cash situation is, but I read you are actively car shopping. With the low (no) financing going on, you could probably work something out with the dealer for a 2001 leftover or 2002 Explorer. Just a thought. far the 2000 is a champ.
  • Boy it's been quiet in here, 2 posts in a row, 24 hours apart.

    I own my truck, and I plan to own it for hopefully another 5-6 years. It is a 2000 XLS with the OHV engine, 4wd, auto tranny. I currently have almost 18000 miles on it, mixed driving, maybe more like city (a lot of stop and go in central NJ). At what mileage/time do you guys recommend getting the tranny serviced? When getting the tranny done, how extensive a service (eg. fluid change vs. gasket work). How often do you change the coolant and flush the radiator? How about changing plugs? Also, what is it with these engine flushes? All the dealers around here push them. Thanks for your input...
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