Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • brophbroph Member Posts: 85
    Just got word from the shop that it's not oil that's in the antifreeze, but trans fluid & vise versa. They have to pull tranny, send it out to get flushed also flush out the entire cooling system along with replace the radiator. I've had radiators go before but not like this. They just replaced the outer tierods in Nov. & this must cost a lot because I got a xmas card from them. Last I knew, they were trying to get prices on the work. Does anyone have an idea about the $$ for this? Thank god Santa got my kids their gifts already. I know what I getting for xmas now. Happy Holidays.
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    You can just replace the radiator and flush the transmission a couple of times. There are a lot of places the water can get trapped. I've heard of other people doing this and they have been successful. You could easily do this yourself if money is tight. Adding an external transmission filter would be highly suggested. Several companies sell these for about $30 that use a standard FL-1A oil filter. I have this on my Explorer and when I want t flush the transmission, just spin it off and a couple of quarts and run the engine til you get 3 out. fill stop and repeat. Besides dropping the pan, the external filter will trap water better. Do it yourself and the total cost is under $300. The only hard part is getting those adaptors off the cooler. Mine twisted internally. Had to cut open the radiator and lock the cooler section in a vice.
  • nyfifenyfife Member Posts: 5
    My problems seem to be solved for now. The first problem was apparently due to intake valves that the dealer replced at no cost. Apparently there was a recall on the intake valves. The second problem was the oil pressure sending unit. They charged me $120 to repalce it.

    I had already had the idle air control valve replaced a few months ago. I had previously had a problem where the left turn signal would short out when i tried to signal while my foot was on the brake. The dealer said this was related to the idle air contol. I guess it was since the problem has not resurfaced since. Although I'm sure something else will go wrong soon.

    I initially wanted to keep this truck for another few years, but now I can't wait to dump it sometime next year.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    are over!!!!!! i took delivery of a 03 trailblazer ls today. for 3 yrs i went through pure headaches with this doggone horrible auto. ford needs to be put out of biz with the stuff they are putting out. BUT the days are over I WILL ENJOY MY TRAILBLAZER OH YES!!!! TRUE ITS NOT A 4 RUNNER BUT I SAY THIS ITS 2ND PLACE OH YES. SO FOR THE REST OF THE THE EXPLODERS OWNERS I GUARANTEE YOU ALL WILL TYPING THE SAME THING DOWN THE LINE. GOD BLESS I DO PRAY THAT YOU ALL PUT FORD IN CHAP 11 please do i do pray i really do mook.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    I bought my 2000 exploder, solid and no problems. the TB had that initial flatbed-tow recall for rotten front attachment bolts in its first week, and a few "build rash" recalls, but has not had continuing issues that I know of. enjoy the ride.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I also wish you good luck with your new Trailblazer. I however have been very happy with my 3 Explorers. Happy Holidays Everyone!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    Congratulation Bud. You finally got out of the lease. I know you have been itching to ge tout of the Explorer for over a year now. How did the entire transaction go for you? If I rememeber right, the lease wasn't up until February? What kind of deal did the Chevy dealer give you? Let us know. Too many of us were involved in this whole thing.
  • 6000hp6000hp Member Posts: 2
    5 speed auto in 99 explorer has no hold back in low 1. it just free wheels!! like neutral!! been fixed twice, broke again!! Ford service says "low gear servo valve gasket blows out due to being too thin" now mine is out of warranty and they won't stand behind their previous repairs. Is this right, or is it just me? does anyone else experience this problem?
  • 6000hp6000hp Member Posts: 2
    seems like every time I call ford cust. service, it's NOT A KNOWN ISSUE!! I have vibration @ 62-70 mph, I have loss of coolant, but not on my clean garage floor!!! hmm, must
    be internal!! "no trouble found at dealer while under warranty,2 or 3 times!! I have no low gear when desending steep grades,(see #1711). stereo display disappears for 1 or 2 days then comes back, ball joints squeek, transmission surges during accelleration, (from a dead stop) gas gauge has never been on the full mark, even if I stuff it clear full!!don't know if temp gauge is wrong or if I need a new thermostat, stays just below the normal range in the winter. exhaust heat shields chatter when in gear sitting at light or drive thrus, I can go on and on!!! had extended warranty from 36000-75000 miles and none of this got fixed. or should i say fixed right! I have fought with the dealer, Ford cust service, and wrote letters, they won't budge. does anyone think the attorny general can help? I think thats my next step! can't even get rid of this thing cause I owe twice as much as it's worth. the value of explorers has dropped unbelievably! I'm at the point to were I just laugh and keep makeing payments! Hope I made everybody feel a little better at least! merry Christmas and happy holidays to everyone>>>CJG
  • reberleinreberlein Member Posts: 2
    I need some advice. My 99 Explorer with 80,000 miles on it ,has a slight vibration at idle and when I give it gas hard it also makes a somewhat roaring noise with the vibration. It is not that bad but my dealer, who I don't completely trust and who I think is overpriced, tells me it will cost $2900 to repair.This timing chain tensioner cassette is rubbing against the 2 chains in the engine according to them. Anyone else have this problem? I'm debating whether to repair it or get rid of it.They also said it will become hard to start ,which it hasn't done and of course I could go for a complete new engine for $6000. Help!!
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    In fact I had your exact problem on my last 2000 XLT with the 4.0L SOHC V6. I had this timing chain rattle that I would get if I was accelerating moderately to briskly. I could also reproduce the noise when I would step on the brake then rev the engine while in gear (I did this for the dealership when they told me they couldn't reproduce the noise). The first time they changed out the timing chain tensioner. This did nothing to take the noise away. I dealt with it for a while but, like you, I was concerned with engine damage. I told them I wanted it fixed and I wasn't going to drive it out of their lot until the noise was gone. So their tech armed with a stethoscope searched around in the engine for the noise. At first they told me that I would be getting a new engine because they had no clue where the noise was coming from. Then a couple of days later the service dept. called me to let me know that they found that the rear timing chain cassette was bad and that they would have to pull the engine to get to the part. They had it out and back together in 3 days and that fixed the problem. Just in time for me to turn it in for the end of my lease. Yeah I know it was just a lease vehicle but I wanted to know in my mind that whoever ended up with that Explorer after me wouldn't have to worry about it. The whole thing cost me nothing because it was still under warranty. However I think that the high cost of the repair is because they have to pull the engine. I have no idea if the condition causes any engine damage, so I can't help you there. There is a TSB on this problem (you just have to find the right timing chain noise haha!) So maybe since Ford knows about it they can help cover the costs? Anyway the best of luck with it.

    One more quick thought. If they insist on charging you $2,900. for the repair. I would just deal with the noise. If nothing happens great. If something does, a new engine will cost about that if not a little less. Also try to find a better dealer to work on your Explorer. A good service dept. can make a world of difference in the final costs of things.
  • reberleinreberlein Member Posts: 2
    I'd like to thank you for your help with my possible chain tensioner problem. Now I know that this very likely is the problem, and I intend to check it out with another dealer to confirm and get another price. Thanks again
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Sounds like you have an excellent plan! I am glad that I could help. Happy Holidays to you!
  • iceman50iceman50 Member Posts: 20
    I have a 1992 Electronic Shift 4WD XLT Explorer with 190,000 miles. Now that winter is here, my 4WD has stopped working. I have checked all the connections, switches, electronic control module, etc. that are specified in the service manual; and everything looks fine. Is there a way to check the electric shift motor? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    I've done mine a couple of times. The one thing I would like to add is that the motor should be run in with a brake lamp in series with the motor wire cnnected to a 12V source. Use a light oil. Motor should draw less than 3/4 amp. They can be stiff some times and draw 2-3 amps. The electronics will not provide more than one amp to the motor. This is the reason these stop working. Be sure to notch the position of the switch cover before removing as this is adjustable. Removing the switch gear allows the motor to spin without hitting the stops. When assembly is first removed, note the position. It will have to be returned to that shift position. Speed sensor pulls out easily and probably has some metal on it. They said that the brown clutch wire pulls out. I doesn't look it and my attempts haven't gotten it out. I just cut wire and later spliced it.
  • iceman50iceman50 Member Posts: 20
    Do you know where I can find out the name of the sites with the instructions? Thanks.
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    I have never even looked at this but I often see it referenced.


    http://www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html


    For more information search on www.explorer4x4.com There is a lot of advice there.

  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    well it was horrible they got me good but i say but i say i love the truck. now here it is first off the only way i took the deal was this: they had to cut some of the ford pymts dwn like seven and by the way how long does it take the bank to give dealer the $$$$$ for deal. second they said they could get me a interest rate of 8.9 but only to find out the punk backed off on the deal. finally nuevell bought me at a whooping 14.9 like i said i would be. well they didnt get me its just they were not as forth coming so thats it. i should have went with my credit card company but they would have not pd off some fd pymts so as you see thats it alright dwntfb thats it
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    The important thing is you are happier with this truck then your Explorer. One thing thast was suggesteeon another board that you may want ot look into is to get GAP insurance. I believe this is insurance to cover you just in case you get into an accident and the truck is totaled and the amount you owe on the truck is more then what it's worth. (Someone correct me if I am wrong) From what I understand, it's pretty cheap.

    happy Truckin'
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Driving around this weekend and heard a rubbing and howling sound from the rear brake. Stopped on the way home and picked up a caliper & pads. When I pulled the wheel off, the disk brakes seemed fine. Had to beat on it a while but finally got the disk/drum off. Not a single piece of friction material was left on the shoes. It had fallen off, not worn off. Had to wait till Monday because Autozone doesn't stock the part. Can't even order it because they are not supposed to wear out! Now I hear this is pretty common. Some report opening them up and no friction material is left. I only had a couple of little pieces. Sure dropped the gas mileage when I was cooking the rotor!
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    where can i get gap ins ?? is it a company that has a reputation that is good? let me know dtwnfb thanks plus mt check is at the dealer now i have wait 4 the my check to clear.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    almost all of them that have auto insurance will offer gap insurance, particularly if they have their own financing arm. again, most do. he can tag it onto your present policy.
  • edwardwedwardw Member Posts: 2
    My son just bought a 96 Eddie Bauer with 55,000 miles. We noticed too late the left side rear has a sag. A local shop says its down about 1 3/8 in. lower than the right side. Is this a perpetual problem with explorers? I haven't noticed any now that I've been looking. Anyone know exact cause? We think new springs are the only answer.
    As an added bonus the gas mileage is getting 12.5 in town per the read out and our manual computations. Any suggestions other than the plugs, injectors, or fuel filter?
    Should have bought the Blazer !
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    1) probably a tired spring on the one side. may have a broken leaf in the spring, I hit a chuckhole... uh, excuse me, shellhole, with my ranger a few years back and broke the main load leaf. spring replacement is not the end of the world. it's not an epidemic on the truck, it's a load/usage/freak issue.

    2) drive like granny with a migrane for a couple weeks and I bet you get between 14 and 15 mpg. start slow, stop early, stay in the speed limits, don't zip around, get all the extra junk out of the back to cut down the weight, and don't try to figure out mileage with winter or oxygenated gasoline... all these tips will save you mpg. and as a bonus, they work with every car.

    oh, I don't do them, either, and I get 13.5 to 14.5 on my V8 2000 exploder most of the time around town. but I don't patch out at lights and don't make sure that derned Grand Am in the next lane stays behind me. those two things help me out.

    if nobody has done a minor tune-up on the truck yet, it's past time IMHO... make sure you've got a clean air filter, too.
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    well im back in the exploder i had to take the tblazer back. my wife got laid off and the bank called to verify. she was working and they said she did not work there so im back in it. so so so i have to get back and do this all over again only this time i will have a check in hand. when i get the lt version of the tblazer not the ls so i think like march or april i hope.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Hopefully until then your Exploder won't...Explode!
  • peaches5peaches5 Member Posts: 91
    I purchased mine through http://www.carconsultants.net It was less than the dealership and my auto insurance company doesn't offer it :)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    I would definitely perform a complete tune-up on the Explorer. Considering the age and the low miles driven each year, you probably need a tune-up.

    As far as the sagging, I know there is a small difference in height form one side of the Explorer to the other but I doubt it is more then a half inch. i would definitely get the springs re-done and you may as well get new shocks put while you are at it.
  • patman7patman7 Member Posts: 3
    I have 98 Exlporer LT, 4.0l SOHC, with an idle problem first time starting truck on cold mornings. It revs high, then dies down, and will stall, unless you keep your foot on the accelerator and keep her going. Once you put it in gear and get going it drives just fine. Check Engine light has come on, stays on, goes off, comes on whenever. Mechanic checked computer codes, nothing specific was found. Have replaced idle air control valve, throttle position sensor, intake air temperature sensor. Also, replaced spark plugs, wires, PCV valve and fuel filter. Keep refering to Chilton's Manual for stuff, and did the above. Car seems to run better, but still idles erratically first thing cold mornings. Any ideas?
  • auburnjohnauburnjohn Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact same problem on my Explorer. This is an issue a good Ford dealership should know about because there is a TSB out for this very issue. When I first took it to the dealership I gave them an excellent description of the problem and gave specific instructions to let the car sit overnight in the cold and then test it when it first started. I get a call the next day and they say "The throttle body needs to be cleaned, need new idle air control valve, new spark plugs and wires, etc. etc. They wanted to charge me over $1000 to fix the "problems".I called BS on the spark plugs and spark plugs wires thing...my car wasn't misfiring, just choking for air or gas it sounded like. I didn't trust them after that and took my car to a dealership in a small town where I'm from when I went home for thanksgiving. They fixed the problem for less than $100 dollars. Turned out to be a problem with the intake manifold gaskets not sealing until the engine warmed up. My hometown mechanic said the other dealership probably knew what the problem was, but wanted to see how much crap they could replace and charge me for. I did a search and found this page which details the problem: http://www.tomorrowstechnician.com/tt/tt40234.htm

    If I were you too, I would be looking for a new mechanic. What irks me these days is that most mechanics don't know how to diagnose an engine anymore. They only know how to plug it into the computer, and if that tells them nothing, they want to replace everything that could possibly have anything to do with the problem. My car runs great now since they replaced those gaskets. I would print off the info from that webpage and show it to the mechanic. Then he can see how a real mechanic diagnoses a problem. Good luck with your car!
  • auburnjohnauburnjohn Member Posts: 2
    I had the problem with the radio display going out too. I took apart my radio and noticed the power control for the display was fried black. Looks like the radio gets too hot (any Explorer owner can testify that the radio gets REAL hot!) and over time it fries the power board for the display. From looking at the board, the board was very poorly designed. There are two big resistors (which generate alot of heat) next to each other resting right on the board. No wonder the board was fried! Anyway, Pioneer made the radio so I called up their parts department and ordered a new power unit for $75. Replaced it over a year ago and no problems since. Oh, and also the new board has the resistors soldered farther off the board, so maybe it won't happen again.
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    I have a 98 V8 AWD with 56k. It has a drive line noise that sounds like a cross from a ping and a metal scraping sound. It is most noticeable on the freeway at partial engine load. You cant hear it if you let off the throttle fully or depress the gas extensively. I know its not the engine as a slight downhill slope will produce this noise with the engine in neutral.

    I think it has to be either wheel bearings, AWD, or transmission (rear end already rebuilt).

    Any thoughts??
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    This is pretty much what auburnjohn said so I think we have your problem nailed!
    The reason I asked which engine you have was because there is a problem with the Intake manifold warping on that engine (4.0LSOHC). I think its part of a recall but I am not sure. It could also be apart of an extended warranty. The Intake manifold in the Explorers with the 4.0L motors has the composite plastic intakes and I guess that this warping of the plastic is alowing extra air to enter the engine. This might be the causes of your problems. I think I remember a couple of years ago hearing of someone with very similar symptoms getting this resolved by getting either a new gasket installed or just having both a new intake manifold and gasket installed. I am not mechanic, but I think this makes sense because I have heard of your problem before on these boards and the reason the problem goes away after warm up is because the plastic manifold will heat up and then reseal itself but only until the next cold start. Now for the cost of this. I had to have an intake manifold put on my sons T-Bird when it exploded (coolant everwhere) and it cost me about $600.00 at and independent shop. The cost of the part itself was between 300 and 400 bucks. Anyway check this out and maybe even look for a TSB on this web site (NHTSA.COM) for a description of this problem. The best of luck to you!
  • patman7patman7 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the invaluable info. I am going to check out the manifold and see what's going on. Hopefully I will get some results. Thanks a lot to all.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    Today, I took my 2002, V8, 4WD, tow-package equipped XLT (with 30,500 miles) to Graham Ford in Columbus, OH., for routine service. (I've tried a number of Ford dealer service centers in my area, and without a doubt, Graham Ford has THE BEST service shop, period!) At any rate, I requested a routine tire rotation, as well as to have the power steering fluid flushed and changed. Not long after sitting down in the waiting room with a book, I was informed that my truck's transfer case had a leaking seal; after checking the tranny fluid level and then draining it, they also said they believed this leak had been detected quite early, and that no metal shavings were evident in the drained tranny fluid (which I actually had changed at 26k by another dealer); nor was the fluid level dangerously low. (They also took me into the shop and with my truck up on the rack, showed me the direct evidence of the leak). On the other hand, Graham Ford also said that the leaking seal must be fixed immediately. And then, they promptly gave me a loaner car from their rental pool, for me to drive-- free of charge, without my ever having to ask. In my experience, none of the other Ford service centers I've tried in Central Ohio have ever offered me a free loaner vehicle, yet Graham Ford said this service is part of my warranty. Awesome!

    At any rate, I suspect that even though Ford claims that any of their authorized service centers will faithfully perform a "multipoint inspection" when the vehicle is in for service, don't count on it being done right unless the shop and its technicians are first rate. (By the way, I don't see any obvious evidence of this leak on my garage floor, but with so much grunge on the floor from winter, it would be easy to miss).
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    well i got the chevy back and they gave me 7 pymts to pay off the exploder which the lease ends in sept. it will be back with them in june so as you see im very blessed to be out of fords mess. as far as gap insurance state farm does not carry it and car consultants web site did not come up. where can i buy it? for a good price FROM A REPUTABLE COMPANY.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    mind if i ask why you needed to have the tranny fluid changed at 26k miles? thanks... and thanks for the dealer reference.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    I happen to be a fan of NPR's "Car Talk", and I trust their advice. If you peruse their website at Cars.com, you'll see that they have a series of short articles in which they recommend certain time intervals for various maintenance items, and their recommendations are not infrequently more stringent than those of the manufacturers. Why? The more cynical (but probably more accurate) reason is because it's not in the manufacturer's best financial interests for their new vehicles to have a long and trouble-free life, especially once the factory warranty expires. Rather, these manufacturers expect their vehicles to begin wearing out after a certain amount of time, and for the owners to soon thereafter buy another new vehicle, preferably (in this case) another Ford product. "Tom and Ray" recommend that the transmission fluid be changed no less frequently than every 30,000 miles, and because I drive at least 350 miles/week at 75-85 MPH freeway speeds, I decided to get it done a little earlier than 30k. For what it's worth, I also took their advice and had the spark plugs changed at 30k (and will do so every 30k) because they (Tom and Ray) warn that if you wait until the manufacturer's recommended 100k tune-up, the original spark plugs may be "welded" in place by then, and good luck getting them out at that point. On the other hand, some of their recommendations correspond to those of Ford's, such as: 1) fuel filter change every 30k; and 2) power steering fluid flush and change every 30k-- and I've had this work done recently as well. This spring, I'll have the coolant system flushed and changed. You get the idea.

    By the way, since having my truck's spark plugs and coils changed at about 30k recently, I'm no longer hearing a valve-lifter type of tapping sound when the engine running cold; I no longer occasionally smell a sulfur scent when the vehicle is hot and I'm outside the cabin; and I definitely seem to have a bit more power and performance from the V8. Furthermore, I've previously complained of a vibration at high speeds, which partially subsided when the Michelin X-Terrains were replaced by Ford (with new X-Terrains that were force-pressure balanced)), but this problem improved further when the tranny fluid was changed at 26k, and the vibration has now totally subsided after the transfer case's output shaft seal was replaced. Hopefully, my tranny is now in very good shape, but I will watch it carefully from here on out, and this is why I've come to believe that we must use only those Ford service centers that religiously put the vehicle up on a rack and perform the so-called "multipoint inspection" whenever the vehicle is in for service.

    I'll again mention that I do a lot of high-speed freeway driving, and since the above work has been done, the only time I may still notice an occasional, vague vibration is when I'm cruising at high speeds, against a STRONG prevailing wind, and I think this points more towards the sectional profile of this SUV truck under such high buffeting wind pressures-- i.e., it is a truck, not a bullet.

    Finally, I'll also mention that I've put over 30k on this truck in only 14 months, but I plan to keep it for at least 3 years, so it's in my best interest to keep my truck in top condition.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I think Click 'n Clack will also say that extended services intervals is a marketing thing so customers will think their cars are trouble-free. A rig with recommended 10,000 mile oil changes just sounds more reliable than one that requires 3,000 mile changes.

    That said, those two guys in Cambridge are flaming lunatics <G>.

    Steve, Host
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    and if you read your manuals, stop and go, not getting the engine up to temp and running it there for 15 or more minutes, short trip, and tow or carrying loads driving are all severe service. so is operation at temperature extremes like below zero and above 100.

    you do enough of that to remember that you do, you should follow the "severe service" recommendations in your manual.

    those numbers at 30,000 happen to coincide with ford's SS requirements. which also suits my politics and laziness vs expense factors.
  • alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    thanks. i just thought that new tranny fluid used in the new explorers is supposed to last much longer. like the one they used in the high end BMWs, tranny fluid change is not even required. but of course, with machines, it's always better to have efficient lubricant. thanks again.
  • heintz1heintz1 Member Posts: 52
    I believe the tranny fluid for this vehicle is indeed a synthetic lubricant, but this still leaves the problem of slowly accumulating metal shavings and particles, especially in the first 30,000 miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    You probably don't have to change the tranny fluid but to be honest with you, it's not very expensive. Considering the history of Ford's trannies, changing it early probably is not a bad idea.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    or get into temperature extremes, severe service says change it out every 30,000. good advice, and I have done just that, and will continue to.
  • truby92truby92 Member Posts: 4
    I am considering buying a 2000 Explorer XLS with 4.0 OHV engine 2wd. Does anyone have any feedback or advice? It has 25K miles on it, seems reasonably priced.
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    I've owned 2 explorers with the 4.0L OHV engine, and while not as powerfull as the 4.0L SOHC engine, they are much more reliable.
    I drove a 1991 with the OHV engine till it had 165,000 miles, still ran perfect as new, no smoke, really nice. When I sold it last week, the first person that drove it bought it.
    I'm still driving a 1993 explorer with the OHV engine and 165,000 miles, runs perfect as new, no smoke, and I will continue to drive it until the spring of 2005, when it will have over 120,000 miles on it. I fully expect to have NO problems with the engine, and for it to still be running as perfect as new.
    Of course, I only use mobile 1 synthetic motor oil and synthetic filters, and change oil every 6,000 miles. I would recommend this to anyone who wants to keep driving a vehicle for a long time (over 3 years).
  • expy02expy02 Member Posts: 23
    Iceman50,

    I have a '92 with 120,000 miles and I have the same problem if I don't use 4WD for a long period. I crawl under the car and smack the motor a couple times with a hammer. Works everytime, something about the solenoid contacts getting oxidized.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    amazing. safer to use a chunk of 2x4 to whack with, because you can short out the DC connection with a metal tool. that's welding class 61: how burns happen. not pleasant to flunk the final, I hear.
  • arloexlarloexl Member Posts: 10
    Hey All, I have a 91 Explorer w/ 90K miles. Engine hesitates/bogs on acceleration in any gear (its a 5 speed). This only happens under load (ie. it doesn't happen accelerating downhill).

    Anyone experience this? Know of a cure?
  • arloexlarloexl Member Posts: 10
    BTW - the above hesitation has been going on since ~75K (currently at 91K) and other than the hesitation, there has been no other performance problem like decreased gas mileage, emissions (when smogging).
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