Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair



  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    whats your take on snythetic oil ripoff or no doubt it should be in any car etc. plus who really makes the best if you drive alot like i do and go like 200to 300 miles past oil change due point castrol or amsoil mobil who let me know i know who makes the best filters ac delco right ??? oil and for what kind of truck or minivan thast the question.
  • How do you remove the front rotors on a 96 explorer with control trac. I removed Calipers and associated hardware but rotors wont budge. There is a center net in the axle, must I loosen this, or is corrosion holding rotor on hub
  • epp1epp1 Posts: 48

    I have a '99 XLT 4WD with the SOHC 6. 39K miles. Lately, I been experiencing a strange phenomenon while driving that essentially feels like the tranny slips or disengages momentarily while travelling along at speeds of 40-whatever. It is a sudden jerking sensation that I can feel through the throttle and the passengers can feel by the jarring effect.

    I had the tranny serviced - new filter and fluid. This seemed to temporarily solve the problems, but no less than 250 miles later, it began acting up again. I do not lose any tranny fluid on the underside of the car or on the garage floor.

    Has anyone experienced something similar? I call ed the dealer and was told there was no recall he was aware of that coincides with these symptoms.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  • I asked a similar question on this board a few months ago. According to several of my local Ford dealers (Central NJ), the Ford company line is that they do not recommend using synthetic or blend oils in their vehicles as the vehicles were designed to run with "dino" oil in them. Now, as far as running the car 200 or 300 miles over the oil change due point, is that 3300 miles or 5300 miles between changes. I never go more than about 3000 miles between changes, and I think most people on the board, including mazman (who I think uses a synthetic or blend oil) would agree not to go past 5000 miles with any type of oil in there. insult intended, but can you try to put a period or comma somewhere in your posts, they're kinda hard to read.
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    I would bet the only reason that ford dosnt recommend synthetic or a blend is that they dont want their vehicles to last that long. Tell me how do you design an engine to use only inferior oil? And no, seal leaks/shrinkage is not an issue any more. All of the same great oil additives are in synthetic that are found in dino. More information can be found in the maintenance board under "synthetic motor oil".

    98 V8 AWD 52k on mobil 1 full synthetic.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229

    I use Castrol 100% Syntec 5w30. Syntec Blend has 80% dino 20% synthetic oil. Mobil 1 is also very good oil. Where it really comes thru for you is if you are very hard on the engine.. lot of city driving, hot climate driving or off roading. Synthetic oil is superior to dino oil because it can withstand colder as well as hotter engine temps without breaking down or coagulating into sludge.

    A big consideration is to use a quality oil filter.. not a piece of junk. The filter wears out or gets gunked up before the oil wears out. Fram makes an inferior product in my opinion. I use PureOne, made by purolator... but if you change the filter regularly, at about 3,000 - 5,000 miles the filter you use probably does not matter.


    Sounds like one or more of your clutches is malfunctioning. I'd have the tranny in to see a tranny professional (does not have to be the dealer unless under warranty.. they just send it out anyway) soon before you cause any damage to the unit. Just driving around can damage a malfunctioning tranny.

    Good luck
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    Yes. Lots of off road driving and a leaded foot.

    Also, its my understanding that the ford motorcraft oil filter is made by Purolator and makes it much cheaper than just buying the Purolator brand. Yes, I do know that its not exactly the pure one model but its much better than most.
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    so a oil treatment will not hurt a ford?? i think the way to do it is just pure in the crankcase right? not that i have lead foot got into a doggone lease and didnt know what i was doing i know now it will have like 59000 on it bye 1-03 when i git rid of it as far as doing the oil treatment every oil change is that the way to go????? thanks ps. is stp good???
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    I know this is not directed at me, but why do you need to clean out the engine when all you are going to do is turn over the ford next year? You wont see any long term benefits form it nor will you see any immediate return for your extra expenses. My advise to you is save your money. Oil changes are all you are obligated to as far as that area is concerned.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Oil treatments only hurt your wallet. No manufacturer recommends them, but the reason is they have no proven benefits and have not gone through any manufacturer's testing. It is certainly not because manufacturer's don't want their engines to last. People's main motivation for getting a new vehicle is the desire to owning an improved newer vehicle, not that they wore the old one out. Most vehicles traded in have engines that will last through several more owners.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I agree with Smily1. I would not bother spending the extra money. Just change the oil & filter regularly. You do not even need synthetic oil if you are getting rid of the beast in 10 months.
  • mookie14mookie14 Posts: 252
    i guess my question is even though i am getting rid of this truck. would it hurt to put a treatment in it. it runs like crap NOW so i guess im looking at the time i do have it. next yr is another thing. not being shallow but since i got it brand new it was made wrong. manafactured wrong ford makes crappy cars & trucks. thats why im thinking since i have it i want to sound & run better thats just me any answers appreciated. the other owner thats his thing me well im different.tincup your right when you said people want a new and improved vehicle. as you see i did not get that. so as you see thats why even though it history next yr i want to get all my $$$ worth plus i got more problem with this truck so thats all i wait for respones.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Oil teatments have no effect on vehicle performance or how they run except in rare cases where they burn oil. IMO they are a waste of money.
  • jphdxljphdxl Posts: 32
    Steve: Sorry about the poor choice of words.

    Has anyone had any experience trying to get Ford to buy back one of
    their pieces of garbage.

    My 97 EB V8 has 50k miles and is now running (although 'running' may
    overstate its condition) on engine #3. Had it in last week for another
    oil leak which was supposedly fixed, and now is leaking again. There
    have also been many other major problems 'fixed' during the last 5

    My extended warranty is expiring at the end of the month (best thing I
    ever bought) and I'm petrified of having this thing one day outside of

    How likely are they to buy it back or give me an extension on the
    warranty? Any thoughts would be appreciated.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Jphdxl, no biggie (this topic tends to bring out "colorful" language) - thanks for reposting.

    I had company two days ago and noticed the guy was driving a very nicely detailed Explorer, so I asked him about it. In addition to the wax job he had just spent $4,500 on an engine rebuilt at 60,000 miles. I believe he said his was a '97 too.

    He complained to Ford and they tossed in $500 on his repair bill. So I wouldn't hold my breath about getting any special favors in your situation, but it's worth a shot looking into your state's lemon laws and talking to the dealer and Ford reps.

    Good luck.

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Lemon Laws only apply during the original Factory Warranty period in some states, some limit it to a lot less, none would extend to either six years out or 50,000 miles. About the best jphdxl can expect is maybe an extension on his present extended warranty. For a good summary of Lemon Laws of all 50 states check here:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Excellent point and thanks for the link, Tincup47.

    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • In reference to questions about buyback, Ford is horrible to deal with. I had a '99 XLT that had every problem in the book. Cam tensioners, faulty windshield, warped rotors, bad ball joints, squealing piston seals, leaky rear hatch, broken horn, all in 14 months. I went round and round with the dealer and with the Ford rep. The best they did for me was offer my truck and $3000 for a 2000 XLS or $6000 for an XLT. And this was on a Ford junk truck that was just over a year old with less than 15000 miles. My advice is to ask them (that never hurt) but I am almost positive they will tell you that you are up the creek without a paddle. Start looking over the car ads, take the hit now instead of the aggravation later.
  • Oil changes, I think is misleading.

    From Motor Week, Pat Goss explained that using the ODOMETER as a measurement for changing oil is pretty useless.

    His example:
    10 miles/hour * 300 hours = 3,000 miles
    30 miles/hour * 100 hours = 3,000 miles
    60 miles/hour * 50 hours = 3,000 miles

    Thus, the odometer reads the same mileage, yet one car has used the oil 6 times longer.

    You may say 10 miles/hour is invalid. Well, not necessarily. Suppose, I deliever mail from my car. The engine sits from stop to stop idling.

    He suggested installing a hour tracker like in fork lifts, boats, and planes.
  • smily1smily1 Posts: 104
    I agree, the odometer is not that accurate for establishing oil change intervals by itself. Car companys must have some way to give the customers a point of reference. That is why they have severe and normal driving conditions in your maintenance guide. Even calculating the number of hours an engine operates is almost useless. Factors that best define a need for oil change are:

    -total # of engine revolutions
    -engine temp
    -engine duration. eg: do you drive for 30m or 30sec before you turn it off.
    -engine load

    There is more I am sure. If your car or truck dose not have a computer to calculate these variables then the best we can do is use our judgment guided by the manufacturers minimum guidelines (LOL).
  • I took my 2002 explorer in for it's first oil change while the oil being changed the counter man came to me (I was sitting in the customer waiting area) and asked I wanted a tire rotation and I said yes, WOW was that a mistake. the oil change was quick the service man said that they were now going to rotate the tires. One hour later I thought to myself this is taking to long, as I was walking towards to window I could see that they were putting on the wheel nut covers back on thats when I notice that my 2002 explorer was lifted up by the small cross member between the engine and the transmission. I could not see how or where the back was lifted. Remember my Explorer was up on the lift for an HOUR. man did I get excited! The dealership told me not to worry that they will stand behind the Explorer 100%. Will the truck lost its smooth ride and they won't do anything about. small bumps are becoming a nightmare. I been asking the dealership to please contact a Ford Explorer Engineer to find out what undo stress was caused. I need help (for peace of mind). can anybody out there help. I purchased not leased. Do Ford Engineers read this forum page. thanks
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    and tell them exactly what happened. if you have a lawyer, cc them on the letter, and make sure the letter says you did that. send it registered mail.

    dealers have insurance to handle such a deal... but since they won't talk to you, you should also cc: the state commerce department where they do business.

    and send a copy to the general manager of that dealership... again, all parties should be noted on the letter, as direct addressees, such as

    Zone Manager
    Ford Motor Company
    1313 Thatstreet
    Someplace, Else 00000

    cc: Foolem, Billum, and Runn
    Attorneys at Law
    666 Nowayout
    East Hell, Else 00000

    Hon. Blather Onandon
    Commerce Commissioner
    State of Confusion
    12345 Capitol Fumble
    Capitolcity, Else 00000

    General Manager
    DORF Ford
    1 Bad Place
    Blackhole, Else 00000

    enclosing copies of the service order and bill, completely describe your excellent adventure, and detail the further misadventures with your dealer. Nothing will happen for several weeks, so follow up. If nothing happens after that, add your local consumer reporter at the TV station to the mailing list, again as a named addressee, along with copies of all pertinent correspondence. At this time, you should also add the Dealer Relations Office, Ford Motors, Dearborn, MI to the named mailing list.

    in my humble opinion, after a foobar of this nature, somebody owes you a new car. As in 2.1 miles on the odometer, with a free extended warranty and a nice cake to celebrate with.
  • I have a 2000 Explorer with 28K and have a sinking feeling my transmission is dying. Before today I would get a sharp vibration from under the front seats whenever accelerating uphill or on a long grade while the car was loaded with more weight than just me. Turning off overdrive would make the vibration go away but after taking it in twice the service dept. never was able to replicate it. Then yesterday I pulled into my apartment and put on the parking break (the lot is on an incline), after I let my foot off the regular break I felt and heard a 'thud' from roughly the middle of the chassis. Then finally this morning I noticed the engine and the tachometer would race or 'jump' concurrently after pulling away from a stop light and accelerating to ~30 MPH or the 2500-3000 RPM range. Just before pulling into work my Overdrive light began to flash. So I have a service appointment tomorrow, how bad is it going to be?
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    Your vehicle is under warranty, so don't worry about the cost of the repair. Just make sure you get it fixed before it leaves warranty. Make sure the Repair Order states exactly what you describe... that way if the problem happens again when you are out of warranty, you have it documented.

    Good luck. Don't drive too aggressively until the dealer appt.
  • Thanks for the reassurance. I heard from the dealer today, said the 3rd gear is totally gone and they are going to start to tear the tranny down. Since I bought the car used last November(forgot to mention that) I am being extra careful to document everything. But to be on the safe side I had Roadside Assistance come and tow the car in this morning.
  • Hey, I know you recommend the Chevron Tecron (Fuel System cleaner - spelling?) - how much do you normally spend on it. Target had a bottle (I would assume that is the correct one to use in the Exploder) that treats 20 gallons for $9.99. The one meant for cars was like half the price. Is this about right, I really dont feel like burning a couple of bucks worth of gas to save $.50 somewhere else! Thanks.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Interesting that you talk of that vibrating noise when going up hills. As I too have noticed the same thing on my 2000 XLT SOHC Explorer. It only happends once in a while and only when the overdrive is engaged. Since it seems to be nothing but anoying it doesn't bother me. It only buzzes and thats the end of it. I know its not normal but I figure its a lease vehicle and if something happends with the vibration to cause a problem its covered under warranty. Is it possible that your 3rd gear was ripped to shreds due to you turning off your overdrive to often to get rid of the buzzing? My Explorer while not perfect with its timming chain tensioners clattering (that noise mysteriously dissapeared) and a bucking feeling that seems to come with wet weather it has been a good vehicle. Maybe I just see things differently because I only leased. It just seems like Ford keeps shooting themselves in the foot with their vehicles lately. I hope with your rebuilt trany that your buzzing will be history. The best of luck with your vehicle.
  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I generally pay $10 for Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner (not the fuel injector cleaner). I buy the big bottle and add it to the tank when it is 3/4 full to have a higher concentration of the stuff. Then I drive it to almost empty. I do this about every 3 months. In winter time, I add a gas line antifreeze when it snows or is very cold.

    If you belong to Costco, I think they sell Techron for a buck or two less than Autozone.

    Hope this helps!
  • rysterryster Posts: 564

    My question relates to my parent's '00 Mountaineer, but figured it is the same as an Explorer so I would post it here.

    '00 Mountaineer 4x4, 4.0L SOHC engine, 21K miles. The truck will idle very roughly (albeit sporadically) at normal operating temperature. It feels like it wants to die, but never does. While this condition is present, the truck will also accelerate suddenly when pulling away from a stop or light(with very little pressure on the accelerator, the engine will race and the truck will pick up speed very quickly). Not a good thing when in dense traffic!

    In any event, the dealer replaced the MAF sensor but the condition remained. It is going back in on Friday to have the condition evaluated again. We are requesting the IACV be replaced and the TPS be checked and replaced if necessary (under warranty of course). Do these seem like reasonable culprits? When the engine is running/idling correctly there is no sudden acceleration, so we are assuming this is a idle adjustment/throttle adjustment related problem.

    Anyone else have this problem with their Mountaineer/Explorer? If so, what was the resolution? My '00 Explorer does not have this problem (although I have the 4.0L OHV engine in my truck).

  • mazman1mazman1 Posts: 229
    I think there was a recall on the throttle control cable and linkage. The main symptom was "sticky accellerator". Check the recall and tsb data on

    you might also wish to have them change the gas filter and clean the injectors if that does not work.
Sign In or Register to comment.