Ford Explorer Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Not sure about the back pressue with the exhaust. From what I have heard the less of it there is, the more power and better fuel economy you will have. I don't know a whole lot about what is involved with the actual test of the fuel line pressure. Sorry I brought that to your attention w/o being able to explain it. Heck I don't even know if that is your problem, merely a suggestion. From what I know, there are a couple of modifications that need to be made to the fuel system on top of the engine so that the tubes for testing can be attached. From there the car is turned just to on (not running) and a recording is taken. Then the car is started and it is seen by the tech if the fuel pressure stays within certain allowed variances. So there should be recordings or readings taken while the vehicle is under strain (accelerating) while idle, once it is warm and under strain etc etc. There may be be more or less to this, I honestly don't know, but someone else here possibly might!

    As far as cost. I searched the web and couldn't find much for ya, but my guess would be between $75 and $150. Other causes of reduced power that come to mind, could be significantly increased exhaust back pressure (clogged catalytic converter), or brakes that are hanging up (you could smell that). How many miles does your truck have on it now? You could also try posting at flatratetech.com. They are a group of Ford technicians that give out free advice for those that have questions about problems they are having with their Fords.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    some is necessary for the smog junk to work, just as you get a $$$ light if there is excessive air to exhaust (lean) detected by the 02 sensors.

    errors on excess lean? yes, the theory being that if all the air entering the engine is not metered, you can't accurately detect out of EPA range conditions. indeed, you could put a hole in a vacuum line and sneak an engine so bad it's burning grease past a smog check.

    if there isn't something on hand to damp down the combustion process, you could have excess nitrogen oxides. because it's handy and paid for, exhaust is tickled into the intake manifold by an EGR valve based on vacuum and computer monitoring. and to maintain a steady supply of exhaust at a pressure high enough to cross the piping, you need some back pressure.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    That makes perfect sense, thanks for that bit of info!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    My 94 Explorer just burned a hole in the #5 piston, at 128,000 miles - and that's the first problem I have really had with the truck. This one was abused pretty badly, so with good care, 150,000 should be easily attainable.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Member Posts: 20,835
    check your front tire pressures. 30 is recommended, but i run the fronts a little higher, and i think it makes a noticable difference. don't expect miracles, though.
    you could also change the speed you drive.
    not necessarily slower :)
    2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I am also a high pressure guy. I hate squealing tires around corners
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Well, I ran the winter tires at 35 psi, the summers are on the truck now and the shop set them at 32 psi and my tire pressure monitoring system is throwing fits in the mornings. I may have to up the psi just to make it happy.

    Yesterday my truck decided to join the fun of vehicle problems we've had this week and wouldn't start for me. Did get it to start but it had a wrench looking come on the dash and was running a little rough. Called my service advisor at the Ford dealer and he said it probably just got too much fuel when it failed to start and to shut it off and restart. I did and the light went away. Silly truck.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    It's fun when they try to outthink us, isn't it?
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    I think the Explorer was just feeling neglected, I mean the Dodge had caused trouble and so did the Chevy......it figured it had to do something to get noticed.
  • rcheckerrchecker Member Posts: 4
    I'm close to purchasing a 2003 Explorer XLT,4wd with the 4.0 V-6. Good move or bad? After much research I thought this was my next vehicle until I contacted my mechanic who advised me to steer clear of the Explorer. He mentioned brake problems,lots of check engine lights, timing belt or chain ? problems and that the 4.0 SOHC is full of problems. I'd appreciate feedback on if he's right or just a GM guy.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    I hope he is uninformed, and he isn't lying. I hope he is more truthful in his repair estimates. I purchased for my wife a 2002 XLT-4.0 w/SOHC. It is not 4WD. It has 20K on it with no MECHANICAL ISSUES WHATSOEVER. The brakes are still original! IT is true that the earlier production Explorers had some issues with the internal belts controlling the cams. These were fixed by Ford under warranty, and a fix was immediately put in to production. The Explorer is still the number one SUV sold today. It is silly to think that people are buying them and having the problems your mechanic stated. I have had two problems to date-both are very common. The 1st-power motor for one window failed. The 2nd was the fiberglass panel underneath the rear glass cracking. Both were fixed under warranty with no questions asked. Do yourself a favor- after your purchase this vehicle-FIND ANOTHER MECHANIC!!!
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    Next vehicle will probably be a pickup because I don't want a SOHC engine. In the past I have bought a few used Explorers with 100K+ (but few years) on them and driven all another 100K and more. I consider brakes and transmissions minor problems, but I'm not going to be pulling an engine because of timing chain problems. Just don't consider these engines reliable n the +150K range. Dumpy performance, but the OHV was pretty reliable.
  • rcheckerrchecker Member Posts: 4
    I don't know if he's uninformed or not but I hope so. I've never been screwed by him and I've been using him for 18 yrs. and he backs up his work. I've been mulling over info and prices on used 02 and 03 Explorers for a month and was all ready to buy one and then decided to make that last phone call to my mechanic. Talk about bursting ones balloon! But I'm still leaning towards the Explorer because all reviews from various publications are good. If the vehicle was a piece of junk the reviews wouldn't be as good as they are. I need all of that front leg room that the Explorer offers. Thanks for the feedback!
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Notwithstanding the 5 I have personally owned, none of the issues your mechanic mentioned are chronic problems with any Explorers I have know of. Most of them go on flawlessly for years and years. I do know of one that was quite problematic, with one thing after the other going wrong, but that was the only one - clearly the exception, and it was a 97. My 94 just gave up the ghost after 128,000 miles, never having anything replaced on it other than standard wear items. He must be a GM guy. Some people just don't like Fords, and can't be objective enough to admit that some Fords are darn good products. Believe me, I wouldn't have just acquired my 5th one, if they were junk like he says they are.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    Yes, you will have to stick to SUVs and trucks if you want to stay away from overhead cams. I am sure you know that Toyota and Honda make darn good automobiles with overhead cams. I have personally owned 4 Ford Contours with the 2.5 Duratec- 24 valves dual overhead cams. This motor has quite a reputation for durability and performance. The CD4E transmission in these cars are another story.....
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    I have owned 3 explorers, a 1991, a 1993, and a 1997, now driving a 1999 Chev Blazer.
    The 1991 to 1994 where all very much the same, all have the same 4.0L V6 OHV engine, if you had the automatic, they all had the same sorry problematic transmission (A4LD).

    nvbanker:
     I would be VERY VERY DISAPOINTED with my explorer if it "Gave up the ghost" with ONLY 128K miles on it. I want all of my vehicles to make it to beyond 200K miles.
    I bought the 1991 with 120K miles, ran perfect until I sold it with 165K miles. I bought the 1993 with 112K miles on it and drove it until it had 176K miles on it, when it got totaled by an idiot driver who crashed into the side of it. The engines in both of those ran flawlessly and smooth. They both needed transmissions.
    The 1997, bought at 99K miles, now at 125K miles, is much MUCH better, really a teriffic SUV, BECAUSE I bought the right engine because of the research I did. I got the 5.0L V8 OHV, with cast iron engine block and cast iron cylinder heads. It has the reputation of being an extremely reliable engine, AND it comes with an extremely strong and reliable transmission behind it, the AODE. I still have the 1997, it is my wifes car, and she loves it. I agree with opera_house_wk that the SOHC engines are a good thing to stay away from. Driving a vehicle with THREE timing chains is just asking for trouble, especially with one timing chain on the backside of the engine, that can only be serviced by removing the engine! I can not live with an engine design like that and expect to make it to MORE than 200K without having to touch the engine. I target my research to achieve the most reliable and trouble free vehicle.
     
    chuck1:
    I think opera_house_wk did not mean he was steering clear of overhead cams, many of those designs are reliable and long lasting. I think he was referring to a TIMING CHAIN that is inaccessable because it is on the backside of the engine, and requires engine removal to get to it. Correct me if I am wrong opera, but that was the way I read it.

    My Blazer is doing very well, not quite as roomy as the Explorer was, but it is very peppy for a V6. Next time I'll have to decide between getting a V8 Explorer or another Blazer. The new Ford V8's have Aluminum cylinder heads, and that worries me some with them sitting on a cast iron engine block. But if these gas prices keep going up, I might be forced into something smaller.

    Big AL
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I'd be disappointed too, except this Explorer has been neglected and abused most of its life, including infrequent service, and off road tricks it was never built to do. I was actually astonished at how tough it is. Many a time it was towed back home because the two front tires had been blown. Put new rubber underneath, and off she went again, not even needing an alignment. No, 130,000 trouble free miles on this baby would be like 300,000 miles on a pampered truck.

    Why do you ask, was it mistreated so badly? You know how family is, right? It was the kids toy for most of its life.
  • tigerjon1tigerjon1 Member Posts: 26
    Recently I had to take my '02 XLT into the dealership to have some stablizer-bar bushings replaced because they began to squeak. While they had the vehicle on the lift they noticed that the brake pads were pretty thin, so they replaced those too. A few days later I noticed a grinding or pulsating sensation when taking tight, slow turns. I noticed the front-left rotor has a couple grooves worn in it. Seeing this I decided to take it back assuming this and the noise I am hearing are somehow connected. The dealership says that it's not the brake pad replacement causing the problem, but the transfer case probabley needs some kit that will cost around $900 to replace. I'm wondering if the fluid needs to be refilled.

    Has anyone experienced this problem? I have become extremley disillusioned with Ford since buying this vehicle. I had always owned Hondas and Toyotas and the most I ever had to do with them is replace brake pads and air filters. I have had this truck in the shop for belt/pulley squeaks, the stablizer-bar bushings, and now possibly the transfer case. The particular dealership has been a hassle as well. When I have to take the truck in for something it takes them at least a few times to get the problem right. The service manager says he will contact Ford in my behalf to see if they will pay for part of the repair if it has to be done. It looks as if this may be my first an last Ford.

    TJ
  • opera_house_wkopera_house_wk Member Posts: 326
    But transfer cases are often ignored, rear seals are prone to leaking, and low fluid will cause the transfer case wet clutch to stick. This will cause a funky grabbing on low speed turns. If rear flange has play, the rear half of the case may have a worn flange that holds the rear bearing.
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    nvbanker:
    Now I see.......why it only lasted 130K. Well, I guess that IS pretty good for a vehicle that gets a lot of abuse.

    tigerjon1:
    I sounds to me like that dealer is ripping you off. He must have saw you coming and committed highway robbery on you. I don't know what condition your stabilizer bushings were in, but I have never seen any "wear out". The only time I have ever seen any replaced is when the car has been wrecked or they were physically damaged. The squeeking you hear is perfectly normal if they are not kept lubricated. A simple shot of WD40 on them will stop the squeeking, no need to replace them. I service my vehicle and I first squirt WD40 on ALL friction points under the vehicle, including bushings, springs, etc. and then I squirt some spray white grease on the same fiction points. The WD40 Penetrates the point to quickly lubricate right to the point of the friction, but can dry out after a few miles. The white grease gives long lasting lubrication to those friction points. Only a small amount of lube is required at each point. The WD40 is also excellent to lube the electric window channels, don't use white grease on them, because it is too messy.
    I am also suspicious of the "transfer case kit", I would have the dealer tell you EXACTLY what the problem is, WHAT the KIT consists of, and WHY you need it. Then come and post that info back here.
    You may not have a FORD problem, but a DEALER problem instead. If I were you, I think I would try another dealership, and see what they say.
    Beside all the research you do when trying to decide on what vehicle to buy, the DEALER also pays an important role in that decision.
    Good Luck,
     Big AL
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    Thanks for the comments. I have to defend the old girl. She is 10 years old, and the window lifts all work, the transmission is original, the alternator, compressor, and even water pump are all o/e. So is the engine, however, it now has issues. And the 04 Mountaineer we just took delivery of seems to be the most solid and refined yet. A true joy to drive.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Yup, I feel the same about my 04 Explorer, much more refined and solid than my 94 or 97. Turned 10k miles 2 days ago, its not quite 4 months old yet.
  • 96mk8lsc96mk8lsc Member Posts: 9
    I purchased a new 04 Explorer and was aware of the rear-end whine problem. (I have a co-worker that forced Ford to repurchase an 03 Aviator as a result of their repeated inability to correct the whine) I went on a long test drive and there was NO whine at any speed ... NONE. The whine did not appear until the vehicle turned 1,000 miles and it was so faint that it was barely perceptible with the A/C and radio off. In the past 500 miles the whine has gone from barely perceptible to significant (I can hear it through the radio and A/C easily and it is a significant annoyance) It is the "classic" whine that is most noticeable from 25-30 and 50-60 while accelerating or cruising but it is not as audible above and below these "harmonic" speeds. I have the towing package with the 373 gear ratio. The dealer has confirmed that there is no current fix available and engineering is working on the problem. If the problem continues to deteriorate I will be selling the radio and CD player...
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Sorry to hear you got a *whiney* one. My 04 Explorer just turned 10k and has been so far pretty good. Its got its share of quirks, but thankfully no whine.........I would have killed it, lol. Good luck, hopefully they resolve it soon.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    I have owned 3 Explorers, all with V6 engines. The first, being a 96 Sport had the OHV engine in it, and while it was very reliable, it was gutless in certain situations. The next two were 2000's. A leased XLT 4.0L SOHC V6 that has been turned in for about 2 years now, and my wife's current vehicle, a 2000 Limited 4.0L SOHC V6. Both of the 2000's needed the timing chain tensioner replaced because of the noise at start-up. My wife's truck only has about 60,000 miles on it, but other than a bad thermostat, it has been a good little motor. The leased Explorer only had 30,000 miles when I turned it in back to Ford, so my experience stops there with that vehicle. The pre 2002 Explorer's have 100,000K coverage from Ford if the motor fails due to timing chain failure. From what I have heard, the reason for the engine failure has to due with the timing chain cassette failing at the rear of the engine (mentioned above as being in accessible unless the engine is taken out). The 2002+ Explorers have this problem remedied, so any purchasers of those models won't have to worry about timing chain failure due to that particular problem.

    I guess I could be mad or worried about it, but I'm not. I have others in the family that own Explorers with the same motor, and they haven't had any problems (theirs are closer to 100K than mine as well). My dealer also mentioned that failure is very rare for them to see (back in 2000, they only had 1 engine that needed to be pulled for timing cassette replacement, not engine failure)

    As for the 4.6L comments. The 4.6L V8 used in the 2002+ Explorer is a slightly different design than those used in the Crown Vics and Lincoln Towncars. The main difference being that the 2002+ Explorer motor is now ALL aluminum. My sons 96 T-bird has the Cast Iron block and Aluminum head combo which has been very reliable. Rest assured, these are EXCELLENT motors. Taxis with 300K+ on them, Police with 200K+, my sons with 130K on it, and my good friend has 120K on his. The all aluminum motors haven't built up a reputation yet, but seeing as how the chemistry is similar, I don't see why their reputation would be any less stellar.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    "No Current Fix"
    Where are they living? In a cave? Your dealer should know that there is indeed a fix. If you want proof, look over in the Aviator board :-) I think it involves the replacement of the axle to a revised one.
  • leomortleomort Member Posts: 453
    Thanks for the response regarding the reliability of the Ford Explorer. I have a '94 Toyota Paseo w/ 221k+ miles on it that can't pass emissions any more so I'm giving up on her.

    I put on about 20-25K miles per year. So need something reliable to get my money's worth since 150K miles can add up quickly.

                          Regards,

                            Leo
  • infotimeinfotime Member Posts: 6
    I just got my Mountaineer back from the dealer today. They replaced the complete rear end. I was told it was a redesigned differential.
    My vehicle does not "whine" anymore.

    There is a SSM on Ford's Oasis system that tells them to replace the Rear Diff Assy as a whole unit.
  • gasburnergasburner Member Posts: 31
    I have a 99 XLT V8 with about 45K on it. Overall it has been a good vehicle. No problems at all with the engine or trans. Biggest expense has been new rotors at about 43K.

    I do have a couple of annoying things developing.
    1) the famous blinking/flickering radio display. The flickering started within the 2nd year and Ford said no fix was available and told me to adjust the interior dimmer switch, which stopped the flickering. After about 2 years now it is starting to flicker again. Anybody have any luck with getting Ford to replace the radio with a redesign,(I have the ESP warranty which should cover it)and if so does the dash now rattle?
    2) drivers seat seems like it is getting loose. The seat shifts slightly while taking turns and makes a click sound. All the obvious bolts are tight. I suppect it is play developing in the power seat mechanism. Anybody have this problem or can suggest a fix?
  • mseenviromseenviro Member Posts: 64
    Rchecker,

    While I have no way of knowing if your mechanic is right, I can give you an accurate picture of my experience with my 2002 Ford Explorer. Mine is an XLT 4x4 with the V-8.

    I bought it used in July with 20,000 miles on it. Since I've owned it, the Explorer has been in the Ford dealership 11 different times. The list is entirely too long to list, but 5 times alone was for the ABS light. They would replace the sensor and a few thousand miles later the light would come on. I was recently told there was a "bad batch" of the speed sensors and they think they have it fixed. Lets see, other problem....torn wheel seals twice, transmission troubles, back up lights not working, the list goes on and on and on. I can't wait to get this baby paid off and get rid of it. What a piece of crap.

    Good luck with yours.

    Mike
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    You obviously have a bad one, trade it in now, like the previous owner did, and get on with life.
  • rcheckerrchecker Member Posts: 4
    You seem to be extremely happy with your 04 and your past Explorers. Are you just lucky with your vehicle selection or extremely confident in Ford's product. My current vehicle is a 94 Ford Ranger Supercab w/ 186,000 + miles on it and have been happy with it and is my first Ford. I'm strongly leaning toward the 03 Explorer because I feel one can end up with a crappy vehicle from any manufacturer. It's just hit or miss. If it turns out to be a piece of crap I'll follow your advice to Mike. I'll trade it in and get on with life.
  • orangelebaronorangelebaron Member Posts: 435
    95 XLT with 149K. The overdrive off light flashes on and off. The transmission was replaced last year.
    Also... when idling there is sometimes a "booming" noise coming from the exhaust. Like a big drum.
    Ideas?
    Thanks
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    1) radio: this is a known problem with solder joints cracking on the power and display boards in the mach radio. if you have a roll of #26 or #28 silver solder and a 8-20 watt soldering iron, and some skills including a 4x to 8x magnifying lamp on working with surface-mount circuit boards, you can fix this. touch up all solder joints on both boards with a little new flux-bearing silver solder, and pull the power-supply resistors up a litter higher on the board and resolder them. should fix it.

    1a) the radio pulls harmlessly out of its dash pod with four nails pushing back the spring clips on the side of the radio, or a pair of ford radio pullers locked into place, in the four holes on the front edges of the radio unit. unplug three signal connectors and one radio antenna coax before you yank the sucker all the way out, and you can open the radio in a static-free zone to fix it. no damage or rattling to dash.

    look way back, maybe 400-500 messages, to see a number of references to a pay-for-data web site which has more complete details on the radio fix. I paid, I succeeded, and a few months later I was pushed off the guy's server for lack of activity. "write and we'll add you back," but it wasn't worth the hassle. if you are sorta-handy with electronics but this is the first go-around with SMT, it might be $20 well spent.

    2) drivers seat. my '00 has the power-all seat with airbags, and I have the crunch/click issue as well. if anybody knows what to do about it, other than get a new seat, let me know. regreasing doesn't do it. I think it's excess play developing in the power seat mechanism, and it's on the order of Stuck Outta Luck. notice the seats were redesigned for the 2002s and up, and nobody has been complaining about the new ones (except I don't like the controls as much.)
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    I don't feel lucky, I feel experienced with Ford. I have owned a lot of them, and although they occasionally put an onion out there, (Aerostar, Contour, and some others), generally their full sized cars and their trucks are very very good. Remember, this IS the Problems board, so it's going to be the most negative source on any make, and reading this board can scare ya. But compare it with other similar problem boards, and you'll see for the number of Explorers on the road, the problems are few and far between, and relatively insignificant. It's not like there are tons of engines failing, or transmissions dying across the board.

    There were subtle differences between my 94, 97. 98, 02 and the 04, and weaker areas in different years, but overall, they've been extraordinarily good. So good, we have owned 2 at a time since 97, until now.
  • idntnvuidntnvu Member Posts: 254
    I don't know if you guys have been made aware of it or not, but there was a recall on those seats. My '99 was recalled back in September of last year, and before the fix, the seat creaked and felt a little "off." After the fix, it was like new. Have you had the recall on yours? If not, double check and make sure. That may be just the thing to fix it.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Well, not really, but I hate the gas mileage. Its down to barely squeaking 14 mpg on the hwy, our V10 Dodge does 13 mpg hwy. The absolute best I've ever gotten was 17 and that was a while ago, its been on a steady decline ever since. I drive the speed limit, set the cruise, don't mash the accelerator. So what gives?? I cannot afford for it to be this bad, I love my Explorer, but holy cow, I never bargained for that. I figured 18ish on the hwy, yeah right. I have 10,350 miles on it as of today.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Well, there is clearly something wrong with your truck then, that is if you are in 2WD mode. That kind of mileage is what my 79 302 F-150 gets with a 3-speed auto and the wind at my back. The thing that I don't understand is, that if you are getting such poor mileage, how come there isn't the check engine light coming on? That much of a varience in mileage would most certainly mean that something is not right somewhere, and a loss of 3 MPH would also mean that a sensor somewhere would be catching that something is out of tollerances.
    Ya poor thing, it seems as if it isn't one thing, it's another:-( Take care :]
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    My wife has a 2002 XLT w/SOHC V6. She never gets better than 14 MPG around town. As I mentioned earlier, we took a 500 mile road trip and achieved 19 mpg going, and 20 mpg on the return. We traded a '99 Suburban on this Explorer, and the Suburban achieved between 10-12mpg city, and never better than 15mpg on the highway. However, I know none of us bargained for $2.00 plus a gallon gas, but if you buy an SUV and you complain about mileage, IMO you should not have purchased one in the first place. If it is hurting you this much, you don't need much equity to get in to a Focus.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    HIGHWAY, around town I don't get over 8-10 mpg with it. My 1990 Suburban got better than this Explorer. The 97 Explorer V8/AWD that I traded in on it did MUCH better. I'm in 4Auto mode, so yes, 2WD. In the winter it did an easy 15 mpg with idling, deep snow, running 4WD and snow tires. Its just recently its declined terribly.

    Only reason I drive an SUV is I USE it, hauling stuff, going off road (not a lot, but sometimes), towing trailers (here and there). Of course I would expect horrible mileage then, but just plan highway driving I would think I could get better than 14 mpg. Our Dodge Ram 3500 dually V10 4x4 gets 13 mpg hwy.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    you add a load, your mileage goes down, sad but true. mileage comparisons are made with one driver, full fluids, windfree, and no heavy crap in/on the vehicle. you add a ladder rack, 200 pounds of tools, put on a tow, and you are never going to get within sighting distance of the EPA sticker numbers. these things will whack mileage as quickly as a heavy right foot will... you know, zipping smartly off the light when it changes to green, fast merges onto busy highways, and the like.

    theoretically, you should have the exhause sniffed for proper combustion and check the plugs for signs that they are either misgapped, worn, or they aren't getting hot spark. but if you're jumping stumps and hauling stuff, I suspect you are not going to be seeing 13-14 mpg in town and 17-20 on the highway.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    I do not jump stumps or frequently haul heavy loads. The offroading is limited to some back trails and logging roads (my husband is a logger and I drive out there sometimes) maybe once a month and that's frequent. I've pulled a trailer with it a few times, never over 3500 lbs and yes, I do know that will kill the mileage.

    The thing I'm complaining about is I'm getting 14 mpg hwy EMPTY, no trailer, no load, which is the way the truck is 90% of the time. If the plugs are worn at 10k, I'd hate to see what happens at 100k. I've only had the truck 4 months, bought it new with 12 miles on it. 2004 Explorer V6/4WD. I use synthetic oil in the engine, the truck is well cared for. I'm just baffled at the mileage, it used to be 17 mpg on the hwy and has steadily declined as the truck got older.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Oh, well 14 MPG isn't bad for the city if thats what you are talking about...LOL j/k. Have you checked your Air filter? Is there some reason that it would be getting clogged? Dusty, sandy, or salty roads? Have there been any periods of long idling? Maybe you have a 300Lb block of ice that accumulated under your truck the past 4 months, and you are draggin' that around with ya ;-) Maybe something is wrong with your transfer case, and the 4WD is engaged all of the time? There can't be anything major wrong, because your check engine light isn't on. Heck, a dirty Mass Air Flow sensor, with just a slight grime, set off my wife's check engine light, and brought down gas mileage 1 mile to the gallon. I wish I could be of more help to you, but my knowledge stops here pretty much. Time to start looking for a bad gas mileage good gas mileage switch under the hood, hehe. Take Care.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Appt on the 5th at the dealer, mainly for its starting problem. It sometimes won't start on the first try and the other day the little wrench light came on, plus the truck was idling rough. They said it could be related.

    I'll stick it out another year, but if gas prices continue to rise and my Explorer's gas mileage continues to fall I won't have much choice but to trade it in. I love my truck, but since our other vehicle is a reg cab truck my Explorer is all we drive as a family. We probably pack on 40k/year, poor gas mileage hurts.
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    oh yeah, I forgot about that starting problem you had. I also agree that it could be related to your deteriorating fuel mileage. Possible faulty fuel pump, fuel filter, regulator or injector.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    Yeah, I agree, something's up with it. First time it did it to me it stumble started, then when I went to move it that darn thing stalled and would not restart. Got it going again, but it hasn't been right since. That was the point the fuel economy started to tank. This last time it did it was the first time a light came on, that little wrench looking thing. Other than that no check engine lights or anything, just a bit of a rough idle and an occational no start, strange.
  • chuck1chuck1 Member Posts: 1,405
    FYI,
    A slight a rough idle is characteristic of the 4.0-SOHC V/6.
  • nvbankernvbanker Member Posts: 7,239
    But, hard starting definitely is NOT characteristic. akangl, the other factor that may be a contributor is your alignment. AS I recall, you chewed up a new set of snow tires this winter didn't you? If your front end is out, it can eat your mileage alive if the tires are fighting each other. Between that and the wrench on your panel, you do have issues the dealer needs to clear up. If they get it rollling straight and starting right, you should get about 17 in town, and 20 on the highway. My wife's did.
  • akanglakangl Member Posts: 3,282
    I *thought* I chewed up a set of tires, they looked uneven to me. However, after taking them off the truck (when I had the summers put on) I had them checked and the fronts had NO uneven wear. Now the rears did in the middle, but seemed fine otherwise. I was shocked, I could have sworn the front ones looked gone on the inside. So that shot that theory out the window.
  • bigaldsbigalds Member Posts: 47
    for sure pick up, a TIRE THREAD DEPTH GAUGE at any auto parts store, or wal mart or k mart, they are less than $5.00. EVERYONE should have one in their glove box, next to their tire pressure gauge.
    Does anyone really keep gloves in their "glove box"? I never have.
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