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Comments
As far as cost. I searched the web and couldn't find much for ya, but my guess would be between $75 and $150. Other causes of reduced power that come to mind, could be significantly increased exhaust back pressure (clogged catalytic converter), or brakes that are hanging up (you could smell that). How many miles does your truck have on it now? You could also try posting at flatratetech.com. They are a group of Ford technicians that give out free advice for those that have questions about problems they are having with their Fords.
errors on excess lean? yes, the theory being that if all the air entering the engine is not metered, you can't accurately detect out of EPA range conditions. indeed, you could put a hole in a vacuum line and sneak an engine so bad it's burning grease past a smog check.
if there isn't something on hand to damp down the combustion process, you could have excess nitrogen oxides. because it's handy and paid for, exhaust is tickled into the intake manifold by an EGR valve based on vacuum and computer monitoring. and to maintain a steady supply of exhaust at a pressure high enough to cross the piping, you need some back pressure.
you could also change the speed you drive.
not necessarily slower
Yesterday my truck decided to join the fun of vehicle problems we've had this week and wouldn't start for me. Did get it to start but it had a wrench looking come on the dash and was running a little rough. Called my service advisor at the Ford dealer and he said it probably just got too much fuel when it failed to start and to shut it off and restart. I did and the light went away. Silly truck.
The 1991 to 1994 where all very much the same, all have the same 4.0L V6 OHV engine, if you had the automatic, they all had the same sorry problematic transmission (A4LD).
nvbanker:
I would be VERY VERY DISAPOINTED with my explorer if it "Gave up the ghost" with ONLY 128K miles on it. I want all of my vehicles to make it to beyond 200K miles.
I bought the 1991 with 120K miles, ran perfect until I sold it with 165K miles. I bought the 1993 with 112K miles on it and drove it until it had 176K miles on it, when it got totaled by an idiot driver who crashed into the side of it. The engines in both of those ran flawlessly and smooth. They both needed transmissions.
The 1997, bought at 99K miles, now at 125K miles, is much MUCH better, really a teriffic SUV, BECAUSE I bought the right engine because of the research I did. I got the 5.0L V8 OHV, with cast iron engine block and cast iron cylinder heads. It has the reputation of being an extremely reliable engine, AND it comes with an extremely strong and reliable transmission behind it, the AODE. I still have the 1997, it is my wifes car, and she loves it. I agree with opera_house_wk that the SOHC engines are a good thing to stay away from. Driving a vehicle with THREE timing chains is just asking for trouble, especially with one timing chain on the backside of the engine, that can only be serviced by removing the engine! I can not live with an engine design like that and expect to make it to MORE than 200K without having to touch the engine. I target my research to achieve the most reliable and trouble free vehicle.
chuck1:
I think opera_house_wk did not mean he was steering clear of overhead cams, many of those designs are reliable and long lasting. I think he was referring to a TIMING CHAIN that is inaccessable because it is on the backside of the engine, and requires engine removal to get to it. Correct me if I am wrong opera, but that was the way I read it.
My Blazer is doing very well, not quite as roomy as the Explorer was, but it is very peppy for a V6. Next time I'll have to decide between getting a V8 Explorer or another Blazer. The new Ford V8's have Aluminum cylinder heads, and that worries me some with them sitting on a cast iron engine block. But if these gas prices keep going up, I might be forced into something smaller.
Big AL
Why do you ask, was it mistreated so badly? You know how family is, right? It was the kids toy for most of its life.
Has anyone experienced this problem? I have become extremley disillusioned with Ford since buying this vehicle. I had always owned Hondas and Toyotas and the most I ever had to do with them is replace brake pads and air filters. I have had this truck in the shop for belt/pulley squeaks, the stablizer-bar bushings, and now possibly the transfer case. The particular dealership has been a hassle as well. When I have to take the truck in for something it takes them at least a few times to get the problem right. The service manager says he will contact Ford in my behalf to see if they will pay for part of the repair if it has to be done. It looks as if this may be my first an last Ford.
TJ
Now I see.......why it only lasted 130K. Well, I guess that IS pretty good for a vehicle that gets a lot of abuse.
tigerjon1:
I sounds to me like that dealer is ripping you off. He must have saw you coming and committed highway robbery on you. I don't know what condition your stabilizer bushings were in, but I have never seen any "wear out". The only time I have ever seen any replaced is when the car has been wrecked or they were physically damaged. The squeeking you hear is perfectly normal if they are not kept lubricated. A simple shot of WD40 on them will stop the squeeking, no need to replace them. I service my vehicle and I first squirt WD40 on ALL friction points under the vehicle, including bushings, springs, etc. and then I squirt some spray white grease on the same fiction points. The WD40 Penetrates the point to quickly lubricate right to the point of the friction, but can dry out after a few miles. The white grease gives long lasting lubrication to those friction points. Only a small amount of lube is required at each point. The WD40 is also excellent to lube the electric window channels, don't use white grease on them, because it is too messy.
I am also suspicious of the "transfer case kit", I would have the dealer tell you EXACTLY what the problem is, WHAT the KIT consists of, and WHY you need it. Then come and post that info back here.
You may not have a FORD problem, but a DEALER problem instead. If I were you, I think I would try another dealership, and see what they say.
Beside all the research you do when trying to decide on what vehicle to buy, the DEALER also pays an important role in that decision.
Good Luck,
Big AL
I guess I could be mad or worried about it, but I'm not. I have others in the family that own Explorers with the same motor, and they haven't had any problems (theirs are closer to 100K than mine as well). My dealer also mentioned that failure is very rare for them to see (back in 2000, they only had 1 engine that needed to be pulled for timing cassette replacement, not engine failure)
As for the 4.6L comments. The 4.6L V8 used in the 2002+ Explorer is a slightly different design than those used in the Crown Vics and Lincoln Towncars. The main difference being that the 2002+ Explorer motor is now ALL aluminum. My sons 96 T-bird has the Cast Iron block and Aluminum head combo which has been very reliable. Rest assured, these are EXCELLENT motors. Taxis with 300K+ on them, Police with 200K+, my sons with 130K on it, and my good friend has 120K on his. The all aluminum motors haven't built up a reputation yet, but seeing as how the chemistry is similar, I don't see why their reputation would be any less stellar.
Where are they living? In a cave? Your dealer should know that there is indeed a fix. If you want proof, look over in the Aviator board :-) I think it involves the replacement of the axle to a revised one.
I put on about 20-25K miles per year. So need something reliable to get my money's worth since 150K miles can add up quickly.
Regards,
Leo
My vehicle does not "whine" anymore.
There is a SSM on Ford's Oasis system that tells them to replace the Rear Diff Assy as a whole unit.
I do have a couple of annoying things developing.
1) the famous blinking/flickering radio display. The flickering started within the 2nd year and Ford said no fix was available and told me to adjust the interior dimmer switch, which stopped the flickering. After about 2 years now it is starting to flicker again. Anybody have any luck with getting Ford to replace the radio with a redesign,(I have the ESP warranty which should cover it)and if so does the dash now rattle?
2) drivers seat seems like it is getting loose. The seat shifts slightly while taking turns and makes a click sound. All the obvious bolts are tight. I suppect it is play developing in the power seat mechanism. Anybody have this problem or can suggest a fix?
While I have no way of knowing if your mechanic is right, I can give you an accurate picture of my experience with my 2002 Ford Explorer. Mine is an XLT 4x4 with the V-8.
I bought it used in July with 20,000 miles on it. Since I've owned it, the Explorer has been in the Ford dealership 11 different times. The list is entirely too long to list, but 5 times alone was for the ABS light. They would replace the sensor and a few thousand miles later the light would come on. I was recently told there was a "bad batch" of the speed sensors and they think they have it fixed. Lets see, other problem....torn wheel seals twice, transmission troubles, back up lights not working, the list goes on and on and on. I can't wait to get this baby paid off and get rid of it. What a piece of crap.
Good luck with yours.
Mike
Also... when idling there is sometimes a "booming" noise coming from the exhaust. Like a big drum.
Ideas?
Thanks
1a) the radio pulls harmlessly out of its dash pod with four nails pushing back the spring clips on the side of the radio, or a pair of ford radio pullers locked into place, in the four holes on the front edges of the radio unit. unplug three signal connectors and one radio antenna coax before you yank the sucker all the way out, and you can open the radio in a static-free zone to fix it. no damage or rattling to dash.
look way back, maybe 400-500 messages, to see a number of references to a pay-for-data web site which has more complete details on the radio fix. I paid, I succeeded, and a few months later I was pushed off the guy's server for lack of activity. "write and we'll add you back," but it wasn't worth the hassle. if you are sorta-handy with electronics but this is the first go-around with SMT, it might be $20 well spent.
2) drivers seat. my '00 has the power-all seat with airbags, and I have the crunch/click issue as well. if anybody knows what to do about it, other than get a new seat, let me know. regreasing doesn't do it. I think it's excess play developing in the power seat mechanism, and it's on the order of Stuck Outta Luck. notice the seats were redesigned for the 2002s and up, and nobody has been complaining about the new ones (except I don't like the controls as much.)
There were subtle differences between my 94, 97. 98, 02 and the 04, and weaker areas in different years, but overall, they've been extraordinarily good. So good, we have owned 2 at a time since 97, until now.
Ya poor thing, it seems as if it isn't one thing, it's another:-( Take care :]
Only reason I drive an SUV is I USE it, hauling stuff, going off road (not a lot, but sometimes), towing trailers (here and there). Of course I would expect horrible mileage then, but just plan highway driving I would think I could get better than 14 mpg. Our Dodge Ram 3500 dually V10 4x4 gets 13 mpg hwy.
theoretically, you should have the exhause sniffed for proper combustion and check the plugs for signs that they are either misgapped, worn, or they aren't getting hot spark. but if you're jumping stumps and hauling stuff, I suspect you are not going to be seeing 13-14 mpg in town and 17-20 on the highway.
The thing I'm complaining about is I'm getting 14 mpg hwy EMPTY, no trailer, no load, which is the way the truck is 90% of the time. If the plugs are worn at 10k, I'd hate to see what happens at 100k. I've only had the truck 4 months, bought it new with 12 miles on it. 2004 Explorer V6/4WD. I use synthetic oil in the engine, the truck is well cared for. I'm just baffled at the mileage, it used to be 17 mpg on the hwy and has steadily declined as the truck got older.
I'll stick it out another year, but if gas prices continue to rise and my Explorer's gas mileage continues to fall I won't have much choice but to trade it in. I love my truck, but since our other vehicle is a reg cab truck my Explorer is all we drive as a family. We probably pack on 40k/year, poor gas mileage hurts.
A slight a rough idle is characteristic of the 4.0-SOHC V/6.
Does anyone really keep gloves in their "glove box"? I never have.