My Explorer is a 2004 XLS Sport, V6/4WD, auto, 4dr. Right now all I have is a class II hitch and 4-pin wiring. To get it ready to tow I would have to spend about $1000/$1500 to buy the class III/IV hitch, engine oil cooler (my truck doesn't have one), 7-pin wiring, a brake controller, and have it all installed.
I think if things go right we will simply trade it for a 2004 V8/4WD auto 4dr with the appropriate tow package.
Unfortunatly we have a lot of hills around here and that's what I'm most worried about.
The RV dealer is willing to let us take the trailer for a day to make sure it will work, but before I could do that I would have to spend the $1k + to get my truck ready to tow.
I love my Explorer, its a great truck and the thought of parting with it isn't a nice one. We are certain we want to buy a camper, but it seems we will have to figure out the tow vehicle thing first.
HAd the same problem. 95 Limited @WD new tranny @ 98k miles. Went back in twice because of acting up, mis shifts, clunking. Needed to flush tranny cooler. Dirt n valves. Then went and installed tranny cooler towing package and bypassed stock tranny cooler. 600 miles runs great
3400 w/3.55 rear axle, 5380 w/3.73. This assumes two people on board, and the wieghts listed are absolute maximums per the Ford Vehicle towing specs.
An excellent brake controller is the Prodigy by Tekonsha. When set correctly, I cannot feel the trailer braking action, very smooth. For hitches, I don't know what is available in Alaska. Down here we have a company called Discount Hitch that does a good job and the hitch is the same as what U-Haul sells. All welded and custom fit to the vehicle. Valley Hitch is another good brand.
I thought cars were meant to last. Seems that the more gadgets, electronic monitoring/controllers they put in the quicker the whole thing falls apart. So far I am not happy with my 95 Exlpoder 2WD LTD. 98k miles: 2nd A/C system dead. I just buy the refills for the summer JBL Sub in rear blown New tranny @ 97K ($2500) From what I've seen, unless you did a once a year service (15-25k) on the tranny, you're screwed. The trannys are only design to last 100K miles. I have 4 Fords in company truck fleet. all new trannys at or around 100k miles. 2nd tranny in truck with 210k miles. Parking brake shoes crumbled apart. $100 a pair from Dealer only?!? Forget it. I'll turn the wheel to the curb on hills. No dieseling or any engine leaks (thank Goodness) Latest, Right side head lamp and fog lights out. 2 fuses for this system? Quoted @ $500 for module replacement under the dash. Good Mileage though. 70 miles a day HWY/CITY average 19/gal. Not for nothing but if Ford is going to advertise and give us the speal on these rigs, then they better last longer than 10 years. Just going to run it into the ground for now. No use selling or trading it in after a new tranny and lights.
Thanks. As for hitches I will get it direct from Ford. I can get the class III/IV hitch and engine oil cooler package for around $400, then have to have it installed.
Hubby is pretty certain he'll just trade the V6 for a V8, he wanted to do that a month ago anyway. Course we have to sell the cursed Chevy first.
***Latest, Right side head lamp and fog lights out. 2 fuses for this system? Quoted @ $500 for module replacement under the dash.***
Do a search on headlight problems. I ran into this with a 97 LTD, its the LOM in the message center that's the problem. I'll find the link and post it here later.
Here's a couple links that address your problem. Its really very easy to fix yourself. My 97 LTD had the headlight problem and it was the LOM (lamp out module) in the message center. Took us about an hour to tear the console apart and get to the LOM, then we had a guy solder the broken spot, stuck it back in and the headlight came back on. Sure beat paying the dealer $300 to fix it.
I have a 2003 Explorer limited AWD V8 and up until recently it handled like a sports car. I had the chrome rims replaced and the passenger front tire because of a slice in the side wall. I didn't notice any handling problems until I took it on the highway. It just didn't feel right. One problem was a bad shock (driver's rear)which the dealer fixed. I asked for a 4 wheel alignment which he said was done and everything was in spec. The truck still just doesn't feel like it did before, it feels loose. Its not fun to drive anymore, I don't feel that positive feedback with the wheel. The dealer looked the truck over and couldn't find anything wrong. I don't know whether to believe them because they said everything was fine before and I had to tell them about the bad shock. Does (or did) anybody else have any handling problems with their explorer 2002-2004? I have to drive from MA to Florida this July and I'm hoping to have what ever is wrong fixed by then. Any ideas??
I'm not positive, but I think the V-8 Explorer only comes in 2wd or AWD (like mine). Is that going to matter to you? Otherwise, I highly recommend the V-8. It's a very sweet engine, and a dream to drive. I much prefer it to the V-6 I had before. But, your mileage is going to suffer even more, and I know that's been an issue with you.
sfox - Most aftermarket wheels are not round. Sad, but true, and they do change the handling charactistics of the car. Cars are engineered with very close tolerances for the wheels and tires they are made with. When you change the wheels and tires, you change the geometry of the whole car. It's going to handle differently. My guess is there's nothing wrong and if you put your original wheels and tires back on the truck, your old truck will be back.
I have a guy who works for me who did the same thing with his BMW. He's back to the factory wheels now.
The V8 is worse on gas? My 97 V8 AWD Limited was awesome on gas, got an easy 22 mpg hwy.
The new V8's come in 2WD, Control trac 4WD, and AWD. I am shooting for 4WD.
My V6 is averaging 17 mpg in mixed driving and 19 mpg hwy.
I am learning to drive a lot less these days, so the mileage isn't a huge issue.
My salesman informed me today that they have a 2004 EB Explorer for $32k, MSRP $42k. Its the ad truck, loaded up, he said its nice and one of only a few V8's that they have left.
I'm in no hurry, we'll see. I love my little V6 Explorer.
I just made an appt for it at the Ford dealer next week, the rear hatch is leaking water and the truck is clicking and binding up when I turn right.
on the 2000, you definitely got heavier springs, in addition to larger brakes, you had to have the V8 and A5 transmission in order to get the tow package, oil cooler right back of radiator, oversize radiator, additional tranny cooler front of the radiator, 105-amp alternator, four-wire trailer connector in the harness, and a partridge in a pear tree.
I agree, the tekonsha Prodigy controller is awesome. noplace really good to put in the dash area of the 95-2001 era exploders, so I put mine in with two 5/8-inch standoffs just right of the console, hanging under the dash. I got it within a few degrees of horizontal there, and it's not in my way, or in the passenger's way. wired all the current lines with 10-gauge back to the 7-pin socket, and fused both inputs (battery charge lead and trailer brake lead) at 20 amps. that ought to be good for five axles
WARNING, the prodigy can blow up if you get into a breakaway situation and the breakaway switch puts trailer +12 volts across the brake lead while you're still hooked up to the connector. if you were to put one of the old-time "safety charge diode" kits in the controlled brake lead from the prodigy, cathode to the trailer side, you would protect against that. those were sold to isolate the alternators from whatever might be behind the car, and you should still find some in dusty old trailer parts places. if you can't, an 80-amp pellet or stud diode, insulating kit, 4 degree per square inch heat sink, and a couple tubes of epoxy with some stainless bolts and some wax paper and cardboard so the middle of the heat sink where you mount the diode and wire out to the bolts as wiring studs can be potted in the epoxy. I did that for dad's old truck and never had to worry about it afterwards. I used a 400-volt 80-amp stud diode because it's enough overkill for the next world war.
the other way to fix it is to have a short trailer connector lead and size the pull wire for the breakaway switch so that the trailer connector is OK on even crabbed turns, but if you separate the trailer and pull forward an inch, it starts coming out. three inches, and the breakaway cable snaps that switch on.
or, alternatively, since your trip is basically over if you have a breakaway situation, buy another prodigy. everybody stocks 'em, and I got mine over Da ISH for $100, a 1/3 savings. but be aware that there is that one glitch in an otherwise perfect, PERFECT controller. even works proportionally backing up on uneven ground. can't recommend that unit enough.
Anyone know of an after market place to purchase a replacement wheel (17" Satin Nickel aluminum). Dealer wants $320. Salvage yards don't have any. I live in Lakeland FL. rdavis3300@aol.com Thanks, Ray
I didn't replace the wheels with aftermarket ones. They just put new Ford ones on because the chrome was peeling off the original ones. I put the same stock tire as the rest of the original tires. Has anybody put aftermarket shocks on their truck? How much difference did it make in the handling? I might have to take this truck somewhere else and get another alignmnet to see if it makes a difference.
I understand exactly what you are talking about on the reverse surge current protection circuit, but I had to laugh wondering how many folks across the globe just read that and said "What the heck ...???"
before you do another alignment, check your tire pressures. the recommended is 30 front 35 rear. i run my fronts a couple of pounds higher, rears around 34-35.
jf.. i don't think the springs are any different with the towing package on an explorer. new ones have a 7 pin connecter.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
i'll change mine to the same, and let you know if i feel any difference in the handling. i'll get back to you over the weekend. i'm not driving it tomorrow. btw, i have goodyear ap's.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
that's why I started out saying check the dusty-bin places for a protection diode, they were sold as alternator or battery protectors, and that's what they do. not to mention the zillion-dollar computer golliwogs that run the engine and windows and door locks nowadays. usually a block of metal that bolts on the firewall or fender liner about the size of a 2-C cell flashlight.
it counts in the conditions where you might hook up a load, have the hitch come apart, say "oh, well," and go back to the shop for another one. stuff like construction, trailer jockeys shifting their U-Hauls from one storefront to another, and so on. Joe Average, if their Winnie breaks loose and turns into matchsticks in the median, doesn't really need another brake controller for a few months. but they ought to know that it is possible to blow up ANY electronic brake controller if the breakaway switch is activated. the prodigy just mentions it in the manual litter someplace.
and yes, I have not yet put a diode on mine. I will before long. just Because I Can....
If you lose the trailer, the controller is the least of your worries. And I understood exactly what you were saying, I just got tickled thinking of all the "change the oil and put gas in it" owners out there trying to figure out what it all meant. Years ago when solid state regulators first showed up in alternators there was a real problem with folks jump starting vehicles and pulling the cables off while the car with the good battery was still running. Sold a lot of regulators to folks who didn't understand current surge and voltage spikes. Some of those things would hit 16.5 volts when the cables were pulled. Pop goes the regulator. And sometimes the light bulbs.
The brake controller that my hubby has in his Ram is a draw tite, anyway, its been great, no problems what so ever. He's had it for several years, its been in and out of a few trucks.
He's only had one trailer (18' car hauler weighing 2500 lbs empty) come off the ball and that was his fault, he forgot to lock it down. Thankfully the chains held and the tongue went under the truck. Cars in the oncoming lane, he never lost control, even on the icy roads. Got the whole thing stopped with no real damage. Lesson learned, he triple checks and so do I.
turns out i drove the explorer today after upping the pressure in the fronts to 35psi. only difference i noticed was a harder ride. couldn't wait to drop it back down. just my luck, i had to take a detour on the way to work, over city streets. these goodyears really build pressure when warm.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
So far I am not happy with my 95 Exlpoder 2WD LTD. 98k miles: 2nd A/C system dead. I just buy the refills for the summer JBL Sub in rear blown New tranny @ 97K ($2500) From what I've seen, unless you did a once a year service (15-25k) on the tranny, you're screwed. The trannys are only design to last 100K miles. I have 4 Fords in company truck fleet. all new trannys at or around 100k miles. 2nd tranny in truck with 210k miles. Item # 1-If you are buying refills for the summer, your air conditioner is not "dead" it IS LEAKING. Item #2 - Who turned the volume ALL THE WAY UP? With a CD heavy in bass? Item#3- You have NO IDEA WHAT ABUSE YOUR COMPANY TRUCKS TAKE ONCE YOUR EMPLOYEES TURN THE CORNER!!! Not trying to be negative.....but you need to put things in perspective!!!!
I,m begining to think its the new tire I put on. The other front tire had about 7000 miles on it. I looked at both of them and the new one has quite a bit more tread. Maybe I should replace the other front tire. I hate to take off a tire with only 7000 miles but I think it really is effecting the handling.
I'm replying to update my original post. My Ford dealer agreed the whine was just loud enough and has order a new rearend replacement. Parts should be in in about 10 days. 2002 Explorer LTD. The mystery of why it resets to 4x4 mode frequently on startup could not be found even though they duplicated the problem.
Anybody heard of this one? There seems to be a rattle somewhere underneath the dash of my 2002 Explorer XLT. It is on the DRIVERS SIDE. It seems to be when the SUV is cold? Anybody had this? Thanks in advanced. Chuck1 So. Cal
I purchased a replacement fuel filter and the tool to remove the old filter. Tried to remove the old filter using the special tool, but met with resistance so I stopped. I don't want to create more problems if I can. Are there any "secrets" to getting the old fuel filter off of the fuel line using the special tool for that purpose? Any help much appreciated.
Once you learn it is easy the next time. Never use force. If using the plastic tool, press it in with the side of a pliars. The hose must be pressed in at the same time you press the tool in. Then pull back on the hose.
Traded it on Friday for a Nissan Titan. Hubby said if we were going to have a gas hog, might as well have a useful one. We were back down in the 14 mpg hwy range on the Explorer, transmission was acting up big time. The Titan hangs around 16ish. Can't say I miss the Explorer at all. Good luck to you guys.
I replaced the ignition wire to the #3 cyl on my daughter's 99 explorer v8 several months ago. It runs fine now. The check engine lite was on at the time and has never gone out.What is the proper way to turn it off?
The Goodrich tires that came with my '03 Mountaineer will be gone soon as the vehicle approaches 30,000 miles. That's not bad here in the up and down, stop and go hills of Pittsburgh, but not great either.
I am curious about the Michelin model tires. Seems to me that there are different models of Michelin tires. I had some from NTB on my old '99 Explorer and they still have tread at almost 50,000 miles (I sold it to a friend). What are the Michelin choices for THIS vehicle...NTB says the tire I had for my old Explorer is not made in the 17 inch size for this vehicle. Or should I just buy 3 more Goodrich tires (plus the "free" spare) for about $300 versus probably double that for 4 Michelin.
I noticed that some (but not all) of the new '04 Mountaineers have Michelin Cross-Terrain tires. A friend bot some other Michelin make for his Mercedes SUV. Help me understand the choices.
My 04 Mountaineer has the Goodrich tires as well. Actually, I like 'em just fine. I think Michelins are the best though. If you can afford them, I'd buy the MIchelins.
I have an 2002 Explorer XLT 2WD w/the Cross Terrain Tires. The Mich's are good tires but pricey. I would suggest going to www.tirerack.com and searching tires for your vehicle, then reading the consumer reviews. This IS THE BEST WAY to find out what your choices are. Good Luck! Chuck So. Cal
it takes a scan tool to send a type 4 diagnostic code, which is a computer code clear command. you can probably smile a counterman from a CSK or AutoZone store into doing it or letting you do it with their sales-aid scan tool. both chains keep one under the counter to assist them in selling parts to folks.
Thanks swschrad, We got our heads together the next day and remembered hearing that if the battery is disconnected for 20 min, that would turn off the lite and it did, which allowed her to pass the Ariz. emission test. At the test facility They don't use an exhaust probe on the later years(it's a 99.) They had previously failed it only because the lite was on. Using the scan tool as you suggested would turn off the lite and eliminate having to re program the radio etc. I will find a scan tool next time and thanks again for the info.
I was getting ready to leave work... and went out to start my 96 ford explorer... when I did the entire car was shaking rather violently... I think it was the engine... it made the seat, stering wheel... hell the whole car shake... the check engine light is now one... what do I do... what can cause this... please help... need to fix it..
what kind of engine, mileage, condition, any other issues, etc.
you might have a few spark wires or a coil out, that is minor, and easy to fix.
if it's the 4 liter OHC engine, there was a period in which ford germany made the engines with nylon blocks at the end of the camshafts, held in place with metal clips. you can probably guess the rest, the nylon breaks, the camshafts slip back and off the center of the valves, and the car shakes and runs like an old, noisy, nasty diesel. there may be an extended warranty on the engine because of this, you'd have to check with the dealer. otherwise, if that's the issue, the valve covers have to come off, and the blocks have to be replaced.
timing chains might have slipped, that's a more detailed repair that might require removal of the engine. I have read on this board that there are several chains in a row as part of the design of that engine.
the check engine light is your friend now, get ahold of a scan tool and find out what the errors are that are stored in the computer, then bring them back to the engine codes forum here on edmunds. a number of pro mechanics look over stuff there and make recommendations. in those error codes is likely most of the diagnosis of your issues.
Happy camper once again... we took it up to auto zone and had them us the scan tool on it... said the number five valve was misfireing... my father and I changed the spark plugs as well as the wires to em (where being melted by the header... someone had em touching) anyways.. it seems to have fixed the problem.. they cleared out the code and checked it again... nothing came up... so I hope this fixes it. and theres nothing more serious... thanx though
I have an 03 Mountaineer V6 AWD with a 355 rear end and a class II hitch. Went looking at travel trailers this weekend and was told I can't tow anything bigger than my daughter's red wagon with maybe a barbie doll in it (No really, it is rated at a max 3300 pounds with a 300 pound tongue weight). But at that rating, there are few trailers you can tow. Now I know that I can replace the hitch with a class III, and I don't doubt that the V6 can generate enough power, because I've owned several SUV's and vans in the past with V6 motors rated at 165 hp. They came with class III hitches and towed like champions.
Does anyone have any experience with the AWD V6 and what it can truly tow?
If I were you I wouldn't even think of exceeding the manufacturer's ratings and limits for towing capacity. Unfortuantely for you, your vehicle was designed from the ground up as a passanger/very light towing vehicle. It is built into the design and engineered this way. Yes you can change out the class 2 hitch for a class 3, but then you have the problem with the gearing at 355 (you really want 373) and the lack of power with the v6 (you need the v8). There are a number of other things Ford adds to tow package vehicles to ensure long life and reliable operation such as transmission and oil coolers, heavy duty alternators, etc.
Bottom line - If you want to tow a travel trailer - get another vehicle.
We just went through this. Had a 2004 Explorer V6/4WD, 3.73 LS rear end, and a class II hitch. While there were a few trailers it could pull, they weren't anything we wanted.....pop ups and a few very small travel trailers. So, the Explorer went bye bye, we cut our losses and went with a Nissan Titan (still needed a family vehicle, so didn't want a big huge 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck). No regrets, the Titan is awesome, the kids have more room in the back than the Explorer had and the Titan gets better fuel economy.
Hate to say it, but odds are you will have to get a different vehicle in order to tow. Not only is the Explorer limited with its engine/drivetrain, but also its wheelbase. General rule of thumb is a 110" wheelbase gets you a 20' trailer, for every 4" of wheelbase you get another 1' of trailer. We looked at 20' and 22' trailers, way too small for our family. We are now looking at 26'-29' trailers, much bigger and much nicer for a family.
You can go to www.rv.com and go into the forums, this issue has been addressed many times regarding the Explorers.
cheaping out doesn't cut it. I'm overbought for what I'm likely to tow, and that's the way I designed it... 2000 exploder limited, towing package, V8, awd with the 5-series transmission. that maxes at 5000 pounds without a levelling hitch, 5500 with one -- and that's essentially a lightly loaded truck with no additional passengers, subtract anything else from the towing capacity.. if I had a family full of junk that had to be packed into a trailer, it would have been at least an expedition for me, and possibly a crew-cab pickup built to tow mountains.
I have yet to tow over 2600 pounds with it, and it handles, brakes, and steers well with that load and electric brakes.
dad had a series of tow vehicles, but the only ones that were worth a damn with the 17 foot forester trailer on were the chrysler newport wagon with big-[non-permissible content removed] mill and extra build-out on suspension and stuff, and the 6.2L 1976 suburban half-ton with towing package, XL tires, and a Hitch From Hell that could have towed freight trains. pity they were all RWD, we had a few rainy mornings in which having all wheels pulling would have helped a lot in getting out of our favored primitive forest service style campsites.
This is my first post, so if I make a mistake, please be kind. My wife and I have a 2003 Explorer Sport with 5600 miles on it. Recently, when we are at speed (not idling at a stop light) and have the air conditioner running, there is a little "chirp" noise about every 12-14 seconds. We have taken it to the dealership, and they checked the A/C system, and we were told everything was fine, and that Explorers are known for having a "chirping" noise when the A/C is run. Is anyone else having that problem or had the problem? Is there a fix? Thank you.
Comments
I think if things go right we will simply trade it for a 2004 V8/4WD auto 4dr with the appropriate tow package.
Unfortunatly we have a lot of hills around here and that's what I'm most worried about.
The RV dealer is willing to let us take the trailer for a day to make sure it will work, but before I could do that I would have to spend the $1k + to get my truck ready to tow.
I love my Explorer, its a great truck and the thought of parting with it isn't a nice one. We are certain we want to buy a camper, but it seems we will have to figure out the tow vehicle thing first.
Like I said, I'm a GMC guy in enemy territory! :-)
An excellent brake controller is the Prodigy by Tekonsha. When set correctly, I cannot feel the trailer braking action, very smooth. For hitches, I don't know what is available in Alaska. Down here we have a company called Discount Hitch that does a good job and the hitch is the same as what U-Haul sells. All welded and custom fit to the vehicle. Valley Hitch is another good brand.
Jim
98k miles: 2nd A/C system dead. I just buy the refills for the summer
JBL Sub in rear blown
New tranny @ 97K ($2500) From what I've seen, unless you did a once a year service (15-25k) on the tranny, you're screwed. The trannys are only design to last 100K miles. I have 4 Fords in company truck fleet. all new trannys at or around 100k miles. 2nd tranny in truck with 210k miles.
Parking brake shoes crumbled apart. $100 a pair from Dealer only?!? Forget it. I'll turn the wheel to the curb on hills.
No dieseling or any engine leaks (thank Goodness)
Latest, Right side head lamp and fog lights out. 2 fuses for this system? Quoted @ $500 for module replacement under the dash.
Good Mileage though. 70 miles a day HWY/CITY average 19/gal.
Not for nothing but if Ford is going to advertise and give us the speal on these rigs, then they better last longer than 10 years. Just going to run it into the ground for now. No use selling or trading it in after a new tranny and lights.
Hubby is pretty certain he'll just trade the V6 for a V8, he wanted to do that a month ago anyway. Course we have to sell the cursed Chevy first.
Do a search on headlight problems. I ran into this with a 97 LTD, its the LOM in the message center that's the problem. I'll find the link and post it here later.
Anyway, check these out, hope it helps.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177839
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200312
recently it handled like a sports car. I had the chrome rims replaced and the passenger front tire because of a slice in the side wall. I didn't notice any handling problems until I took it on the highway. It just didn't feel right. One problem was a bad shock (driver's rear)which the dealer fixed. I asked for a 4 wheel alignment which he said was done and everything was in spec.
The truck still just doesn't feel like it did before, it feels loose. Its not fun to drive anymore, I don't feel that positive feedback with the wheel. The dealer looked the truck over and couldn't find anything wrong. I don't know whether to believe them because they said everything was fine before and I had to tell them about the bad shock. Does (or did) anybody else have any handling problems with their explorer 2002-2004? I have to drive from MA to Florida this July and I'm hoping to have what ever is wrong fixed by then. Any ideas??
sfox - Most aftermarket wheels are not round. Sad, but true, and they do change the handling charactistics of the car. Cars are engineered with very close tolerances for the wheels and tires they are made with. When you change the wheels and tires, you change the geometry of the whole car. It's going to handle differently. My guess is there's nothing wrong and if you put your original wheels and tires back on the truck, your old truck will be back.
I have a guy who works for me who did the same thing with his BMW. He's back to the factory wheels now.
The new V8's come in 2WD, Control trac 4WD, and AWD. I am shooting for 4WD.
My V6 is averaging 17 mpg in mixed driving and 19 mpg hwy.
I am learning to drive a lot less these days, so the mileage isn't a huge issue.
My salesman informed me today that they have a 2004 EB Explorer for $32k, MSRP $42k. Its the ad truck, loaded up, he said its nice and one of only a few V8's that they have left.
I'm in no hurry, we'll see. I love my little V6 Explorer.
I just made an appt for it at the Ford dealer next week, the rear hatch is leaking water and the truck is clicking and binding up when I turn right.
I agree, the tekonsha Prodigy controller is awesome. noplace really good to put in the dash area of the 95-2001 era exploders, so I put mine in with two 5/8-inch standoffs just right of the console, hanging under the dash. I got it within a few degrees of horizontal there, and it's not in my way, or in the passenger's way. wired all the current lines with 10-gauge back to the 7-pin socket, and fused both inputs (battery charge lead and trailer brake lead) at 20 amps. that ought to be good for five axles
WARNING, the prodigy can blow up if you get into a breakaway situation and the breakaway switch puts trailer +12 volts across the brake lead while you're still hooked up to the connector. if you were to put one of the old-time "safety charge diode" kits in the controlled brake lead from the prodigy, cathode to the trailer side, you would protect against that. those were sold to isolate the alternators from whatever might be behind the car, and you should still find some in dusty old trailer parts places. if you can't, an 80-amp pellet or stud diode, insulating kit, 4 degree per square inch heat sink, and a couple tubes of epoxy with some stainless bolts and some wax paper and cardboard so the middle of the heat sink where you mount the diode and wire out to the bolts as wiring studs can be potted in the epoxy. I did that for dad's old truck and never had to worry about it afterwards. I used a 400-volt 80-amp stud diode because it's enough overkill for the next world war.
the other way to fix it is to have a short trailer connector lead and size the pull wire for the breakaway switch so that the trailer connector is OK on even crabbed turns, but if you separate the trailer and pull forward an inch, it starts coming out. three inches, and the breakaway cable snaps that switch on.
or, alternatively, since your trip is basically over if you have a breakaway situation, buy another prodigy. everybody stocks 'em, and I got mine over Da ISH for $100, a 1/3 savings. but be aware that there is that one glitch in an otherwise perfect, PERFECT controller. even works proportionally backing up on uneven ground. can't recommend that unit enough.
Thanks, Ray
lol
Jim
jf.. i don't think the springs are any different with the towing package on an explorer. new ones have a 7 pin connecter.
it counts in the conditions where you might hook up a load, have the hitch come apart, say "oh, well," and go back to the shop for another one. stuff like construction, trailer jockeys shifting their U-Hauls from one storefront to another, and so on. Joe Average, if their Winnie breaks loose and turns into matchsticks in the median, doesn't really need another brake controller for a few months. but they ought to know that it is possible to blow up ANY electronic brake controller if the breakaway switch is activated. the prodigy just mentions it in the manual litter someplace.
and yes, I have not yet put a diode on mine. I will before long. just Because I Can....
He's only had one trailer (18' car hauler weighing 2500 lbs empty) come off the ball and that was his fault, he forgot to lock it down. Thankfully the chains held and the tongue went under the truck. Cars in the oncoming lane, he never lost control, even on the icy roads. Got the whole thing stopped with no real damage. Lesson learned, he triple checks and so do I.
these goodyears really build pressure when warm.
98k miles: 2nd A/C system dead. I just buy the refills for the summer
JBL Sub in rear blown
New tranny @ 97K ($2500) From what I've seen, unless you did a once a year service (15-25k) on the tranny, you're screwed. The trannys are only design to last 100K miles. I have 4 Fords in company truck fleet. all new trannys at or around 100k miles. 2nd tranny in truck with 210k miles.
Item # 1-If you are buying refills for the summer, your air conditioner is not "dead" it IS LEAKING.
Item #2 - Who turned the volume ALL THE WAY UP? With a CD heavy in bass?
Item#3- You have NO IDEA WHAT ABUSE YOUR COMPANY TRUCKS TAKE ONCE YOUR EMPLOYEES TURN THE CORNER!!!
Not trying to be negative.....but you need to put things in perspective!!!!
There seems to be a rattle somewhere underneath the dash of my 2002 Explorer XLT. It is on the DRIVERS SIDE. It seems to be when the SUV is cold? Anybody had this?
Thanks in advanced.
Chuck1
So. Cal
Traded it on Friday for a Nissan Titan. Hubby said if we were going to have a gas hog, might as well have a useful one. We were back down in the 14 mpg hwy range on the Explorer, transmission was acting up big time. The Titan hangs around 16ish. Can't say I miss the Explorer at all. Good luck to you guys.
I am curious about the Michelin model tires. Seems to me that there are different models of Michelin tires. I had some from NTB on my old '99 Explorer and they still have tread at almost 50,000 miles (I sold it to a friend). What are the Michelin choices for THIS vehicle...NTB says the tire I had for my old Explorer is not made in the 17 inch size for this vehicle. Or should I just buy 3 more Goodrich tires (plus the "free" spare) for about $300 versus probably double that for 4 Michelin.
I noticed that some (but not all) of the new '04 Mountaineers have Michelin Cross-Terrain tires. A friend bot some other Michelin make for his Mercedes SUV. Help me understand the choices.
Daryll40, Pittsburgh
Good Luck!
Chuck
So. Cal
We got our heads together the next day and remembered hearing that if the battery is disconnected for 20 min, that would turn off the lite and it did, which allowed her to pass the Ariz. emission test. At the test facility They don't use an exhaust probe on the later years(it's a 99.) They had previously failed it only because the lite was on.
Using the scan tool as you suggested would turn off the lite and eliminate having to re program the radio etc. I will find a scan tool next time and thanks again for the info.
you might have a few spark wires or a coil out, that is minor, and easy to fix.
if it's the 4 liter OHC engine, there was a period in which ford germany made the engines with nylon blocks at the end of the camshafts, held in place with metal clips. you can probably guess the rest, the nylon breaks, the camshafts slip back and off the center of the valves, and the car shakes and runs like an old, noisy, nasty diesel. there may be an extended warranty on the engine because of this, you'd have to check with the dealer. otherwise, if that's the issue, the valve covers have to come off, and the blocks have to be replaced.
timing chains might have slipped, that's a more detailed repair that might require removal of the engine. I have read on this board that there are several chains in a row as part of the design of that engine.
the check engine light is your friend now, get ahold of a scan tool and find out what the errors are that are stored in the computer, then bring them back to the engine codes forum here on edmunds. a number of pro mechanics look over stuff there and make recommendations. in those error codes is likely most of the diagnosis of your issues.
good luck.
Does anyone have any experience with the AWD V6 and what it can truly tow?
Bottom line - If you want to tow a travel trailer - get another vehicle.
Hate to say it, but odds are you will have to get a different vehicle in order to tow. Not only is the Explorer limited with its engine/drivetrain, but also its wheelbase. General rule of thumb is a 110" wheelbase gets you a 20' trailer, for every 4" of wheelbase you get another 1' of trailer. We looked at 20' and 22' trailers, way too small for our family. We are now looking at 26'-29' trailers, much bigger and much nicer for a family.
You can go to www.rv.com and go into the forums, this issue has been addressed many times regarding the Explorers.
I have yet to tow over 2600 pounds with it, and it handles, brakes, and steers well with that load and electric brakes.
dad had a series of tow vehicles, but the only ones that were worth a damn with the 17 foot forester trailer on were the chrysler newport wagon with big-[non-permissible content removed] mill and extra build-out on suspension and stuff, and the 6.2L 1976 suburban half-ton with towing package, XL tires, and a Hitch From Hell that could have towed freight trains. pity they were all RWD, we had a few rainy mornings in which having all wheels pulling would have helped a lot in getting out of our favored primitive forest service style campsites.
Thank you.