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Comments
Thank you!
Opera House Wk, thanks for the advice! your right, next time, piece of cake.
The Jumping before a shift is hard to quantify. It may be the normal cutout before the gear change, or may be worse than that. Need more info. I'm assuming this is the 5 speed auto tranny, which is computer controlled. If the program is corrupted it will do some goofy things when it shifts. A reflash usually fixes it. It's normally a very smooth transmission, however, it does cut power just before a gear change - that's normal. Does that help?
sgt... the prior generation v8/awd was great for towing a 2 horse trailer, but to tow a big heavy box, you need a big heavy tow vehicle.
I also have to add both my husband and i are total ford people and he has a bronco II, an '87 which has over 250,000 miles on it and still going strong!!!!
those devils and their devilish deeds....
Chuck
So. Cal
GOOD LUCK!
I get a letter asking me if i'm interested and can buy now or up to point basic warranty expires at 35K miles.
They are asking about $2900 for full boat coverage and $2400 for slightly less coverage.
Questions:
#1: What's the deepest percentage discounts you folks have seen for this? I know that I can haggle but not sure to what point?
#2: Is it worth getting or should I play the odds and decline?
Thanks in advance.
T
The only question I had, was the transmission seemed hunt between two gears sometimes in almost a rythmic loop when the speed control was on. Taking the Speed Control off seemed to stop it. I know, I know, it says not to use the speed control when towing, and that's probably why.
This performance, coupled with the fact that in 4 months we haven't found even one glitch or defect in the car may make this one a keeper! I always keep 3 new cars on lease, and about 3 old cars that I either buy used, or were so good, we just hung onto it after the lease was up. This may be one. We'll see in 32 months.
When I "Googled" the problem I found a number of references to rear ABS sensor failure. This might be another weak spot on Fords.
Hope this helps someone.
My 02 explorer xls 2x4 auto. v6 sohc 67,000 miles has had the howl for quite some time. I feel that even though my vehicle is out of warranty that Ford should be responsible for repairing or replacing the rear diff. if this is an engineering or manufacturing defect. I have spoken to my local Service Mgr. and he acts as if this Rear End problem on an 02 Explorer is something new, that he is not familiar with any of these problems.
Can anyone advise me on how I might handle getting any assistance from Ford or my local dealer in order to repair this problem or am I going to have to fork out $1500/$1800 to change the rear end myself.
1) Go through this discussion and print out all pertinent posts.
2) "Goggle" this problem and print out the info.
3) Start putting ALL communication in writing.
4) So after you have printed out all this info, you now have proven that this problem does indeed exist. (And ford knows it has a problem with the poor design of the rear-end!)
5) Armed with all this info-march in to the Service Managers office and present a letter and what you have printed out to the Service Manager. Ask him to contact the Area Manager at Ford. If he refuses to do it you will have to contact Ford yourself. The number should be in the back of your owners manual. Explain that you plan to continue to buy Ford products (even if you don't!)
It is very important to remain civil and very business like throughout this process. By the way, based on the miles on your vehicle I think the best you can hope for is to pay 50% of the repair!
GOOD LUCK!
Thank You for the advice. I am going to pursue this and see if Ford will assist in any way.
that said, I didn't notice any hunting on my 2000 with a moderate load on (2300 #). they might have a flash upgrade for that.
A minor issue was the four ABS sensors that I went through. No big deal, just got to know my service manager better than I would have liked.
ANS:
I am assuming since it is a 2003 that at least this vehicle is under warranty. I have been stuck on a used car as well in the past. There is nothing you can do will out incurring a tremendous loss. If you are returning for the same problem(s) over and over again-then you can get the service manager and Ford involved to get the problems taken care of. Remember to always run a carfax report when you buy a used vehicle. If this SUV wasn't a "rental return" then someone traded it in because it was a problem vehicle, a carfax report would have perhaps raised a red flag! Good luck!
Good luck and hope you can get your Explorer running.
Thanks xgrove
Your "high revving" sound is just your fan clutch starting out engaged, which is normal for these cars, and nothing to worry about. They all do it.
That is the most absurd thing I have ever heard. Find another dealer. And after you do, go back and tell him that his head obviously doesn't have any "electronic" brain waves going on!!
UNBELIEVABLE!!!!
if you are towing ANY 2wd vehicle on its driving wheels, with an auto transmission, the same rule applies. if you tow on the driven wheels, you will wreck the tranny.
if you are towing a manual-transmission 2wd vehicle, you can put the tranny in neutral and tow on all fours for some mileage. I have seen 50 miles in print on mid-70s and mid-60s domestics (GM and mopar, respectively.)
if oyu are towing a 4wd manual on the transfer case wheels, and they are not normally locked unless the car is running and you have selected 4wd, see the above graph. if you have manual or power-off locking, and the transfer case wheels are locked, you kill the transfer case if you tow through it.
and it doesn't really matter what model car you have, or what color the tow truck is.
that ought to simplify things. if all moving parts are NOT covered in lube at all times in power drive assemblies, don't turn 'em in non-operating configuration, it's just a general principle across the field.