Lincoln LS Overheating Problems

zrhino45zrhino45 Member Posts: 2
edited September 2015 in Lincoln


  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    Say what??

    Mine overheated a few years ago, and wasn't pretty when it came time to pay for what went wrong.

    Would you care to repost?
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • zrhino45zrhino45 Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 Lincoln has 73ooo miles and has overheated 4 times in the last 20 days.mechanics cannot figure it out. when I take it in it does not overheat. but after driving the hell car for a few day's it happens again. I stop the car and shut it off. and then in 2 or 3 min tern it on. then the fan cool's it. and off I go till next time. this is bs... so what whent wrong HELP............
  • tklarnertklarner Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the exact same problem, although with slightly more miles on the car. The mechanics look at me like I'm from outer space after they try to diagnose the problem. They initially thought that there was a coolant leak, and they did every conceivable test of exhaust for coolant, coolant for exhaust, using dye, etc., but after filling it to the top and running it for a few days the same problem occurred. I find that if it's driven at high speed (55-60mph) then you get stuck in traffic (5-10mph) it definitely overheats. If you idle it for about 15 minutes after running it at higher speed (45-55mph), it overheats. I've checked the fuses, there are two for the cooling fan, and they are OK. What can I do to convince the mechanics that there's a problem? Any suggestions?
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    The problem I had with my cooling system had to do with the hydraulic cooling fan, which was discontinued in 2003, when it was replaced by an electric one. Either way, it sounds like a thermostat and/or cooling fan issue. I had hoped for thermostat in my case, but it turned out otherwise, to the tune of ~$700.

    Good luck.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • gadjettgadjett Member Posts: 3
    my 2000 Lincoln LS does the same thing, except it really isn't overheating - just says it is! The light comes on and the guage shows hot - stop it for a few minutes and it is fine - no steam from the engine - can even open the radiator cap. We figure it is something in the computer. I can live with it. Only usually happens if I've had a couple of short stops, i.e. shopping. My BIG problem is my LS has a 460 engine - we have bought 2 Auto Repair manuals that supposedly include our LS, but we need to change the valve covers and o rings, and nothing has info on a 460! We discovered it is a 460 from the VIN code. Any help?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    There is no such thing as a 460 LS engine. You either have a 3.9L V8 or a 3.0L V6.
  • robtblissrobtbliss Member Posts: 2
    my lincoln ls 2003 with v8 is currently in the ford shop with overheating problem! fourth time in the shop with this problem,prev times they said nothing wrong,no codes. this time however codes did remain in computer. car has sat in shop for 2 weeks waiting for a new fan assembly unit!! apparently this part is now FROZEN by ford obviously because it is a mexican junk part that is defective. ford is apparently waiting to have new ones built before sending anymore out to us poor consumers.
  • cepcep Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 LS that overheats when I turn on the air conditioner, or when I'm sitting too long in traffic. If I pour water on the radiator, the car immediately cools down. I don't know if the problem is the radiator or the radiator fan. How can I tell if the radiator fan is rotating fast enough? (it seems to run a little slow to me).
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    I have a '00 LS also that I bought new, and the only significant problem I've had in the 123K miles that I've driven it is the hydraulic cooling fan system. It's a variable-speed unit, and the fan drive motor has been known to fail such that it only runs at the lowest speed. Since I got mine fixed three years ago, it's worked fine -- I think they had a batch of substandard motors.

    Anyway, it's not cheap. Have it checked out -- could just be a thermostat.

    But don't count on it. This'll probably be something that the dealer is going to have to do. It's a pretty unusual system & I don't think I'd want a general-purpose garage learning on it.

    Good luck.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • cepcep Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. I think that's the problem because even when the car is starting to run hot the fan speed doesn't change. I just hope I can find a cheap fan out there somewhere.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Don't forget that the LS fan is hydraulically operated, not electric or mechanical. So you won't find a generic or 3rd party replacement. Bill Jenkins at Team Ford in Las Vegas is a good source for OEM parts.
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Member Posts: 490
    Great answer, cdpin. Between you and akirby, who needs diagnostics? :>)

    Now I have a quick question that maybe you have some insight or opinion on. It's just a crazy idea I've been pondering. No, not the one involving Salma Hayek. This is about my stick-shift Lincoln and gas mileage.

    You and I know the LS 5speed is a pretty good car, n'est pas? Sure, it could use a few more HP (like maybe 80) and a bit better mpg would be nice too. There may be ways to get the HP, but this idea only addresses the mpg.

    Part of the problem is the 5speed has a 1:1 final drive ratio. THis causes the engine to turn at, what, 2500-3000 rpm at highway speds I think. I should have verified the number b4 I wrote this, but my wife is pretty much the sole driver of the LS now. Anyway, highway mileage should increase if the engine rpms decrease eh?

    The tranny is a getrag. getrag also makes 6 speeds. I admit I havent researched at all, but I'm thinking a 6 speed might have a lower final drive ratio? Perhaps finding a 6 speed getrag on a bimmer in a junk yard somewhere and modifying the spline might provide a nice improvement in LS mpg, and maybe increase the torque handling number so that the HP increase could be addressed too?

    Any thoughts? Yeah, maybe that Salma Hayek dream is more easily achievable? :blush:
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    Well, I got ~26.1 mpg on a 7400-mile trip to Alaska & back in July, which I think is pretty decent. Generally get ~19 commuting to work & back in stop-and-go traffic, which isn't great, but I consider it okay.

    Anyway, making a transmission swap in a car like this is certainly an ambitious project. I doubt seriously that the 6-speed has the same external dimensions -- it's unclear that it would even fit. You might be better off going with a taller rear-end ratio, which would of course affect lower gear acceleration as well. I also don't know if the Getrag 6-speed you're considering is an overdrive unit. If not, you won't accomplish anything in the top gear.

    Good luck. I wouldn't touch what you're contemplating with an 11-foot pole.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Who would want a manual tranny in a Lincoln in the first place???
    :P ;):blush:
  • jeyhoejeyhoe Member Posts: 490
    CD: U talkin about the LS or Salma with that 11 foot pole? :blush: I'd have to enlist the aid of a friend who's a mechanic and his answer to these types of questions is always "anything's possible" :) If I ever do attempt it, you'll be first to know. Also, the only time i ever got 26-27 mpg was when I tried "hyper-miling" It does work, but geez, takes a lotta time off ones life and really p*sses off other drivers. My basic commute mileage when I used to have a job was around 21-22 and that was 95% hiway. Oneof my problems is I'm using California gasoline. Another is I drive 75 or so if I can. Are you a slow driver? Just askin! :D

    akirby: Very funny :P Actually I think the answer is about 1500 people, though I'm not sure of accuracy of that. Well, actually the number who would WANT a stick shift Lincoln is probably higher, but dealer refusal to order them kept the number low. I wonder what the ratio of auto to manual is in the CTS? The bimmer? Volvo? ...
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    That was an inside shot at cdnpinhead. We go way back.

    I think the final number was around 1800. I'm sure the CTS is similarly low - probably 5% or less. Even the BMW manuals are rare - less than 20% IIRC.

    I love manuals but I got tired of them in my boring daily commute, even moreso when I get stuck in a long stop-no-go delay. I'm waiting to buy a used 06 GT Mustang with a stick for weekend fun.
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    "Are you a slow driver?"

    Nope. That trip to AK included lots of time at 75-80 and a number of hours between 80 & 90 -- gotta love driving through Eastern Oregon & Nevada.

    A few years ago I had the opportunity to set the cruise control at 105 on U.S. 60 in New Mexico & leave it there for most of a half hour. Spent much of the rest of that day well above 70.

    My engine was carefully broken-in, which takes at least 5000 miles before the fuel mileage starts to get reasonable. Synthetic oil (Mobil 1) could be a factor as well.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Member Posts: 5,405
    :P :P to you too! ;)

    I enjoy that manual every day, as I slip it into neutral & wait to see how slow I'll have to go in the upcoming traffic "situation." Sometimes I drop one gear, but more often it's two or three, before I slip it back into gear -- could be two seconds or 30 seconds later, jerk-free, engine at idle speed all the while.

    Gotta love traffic jams.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • chip16kuchip16ku Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 with the V8, it has 59000 miles, when it gets up to normal running temp the fan comes on really really loud and the car gets alil warmer than it should but not hot, stop and go traffic or sitting in a drive through for 20 mins doesn't matter, only when it's run on the highway does it proceed to get really hot and it tells me its too hot, I can get off the highway and the temp comes back down and the alarm goes off and it's back to running alil warm. I've read posts about the fan failin and running to slow but that doesn't seem to be my issue, wondering if anyone has experienced anything remotely close to this, and insight would help and be appreciated
  • victoria351victoria351 Member Posts: 6
    :sick: My car is very very sick, she over heats, and then spews antifreeze all over. One time she actually turned off due to over heating, and hasn't turned back on since. Someone please help me, I need to know where I can get inexpensive, yet good part for this HUGE problem of mine. She's a 2000 Lincoln LS. If someone thinks they can help please hit me back, and I will give you a full synopsis on the car. Help would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks too everyone :sick:
  • genetkygenetky Member Posts: 4
    My 00 LS is also over heating. It does not do it all the time. It will go weeks without acting up. Then it over heats and i pull over, give it about 10 minutes and continue on. I do notice that the heater takes for ever to warm up. i am going to try a thermostat change first, since it is cheap. I noticed that people are saying that the LS uses a Hydralic fan. The replacement I see on the net says electric. DORMAN OEM REPLACEMENT RADIATOR FAN ASSEMBLY -- A High Quality Direct Fit OEM Replacement Radiator Fan Assembly $173.91. Is this right?
    I still like this car. :sick: i would like to hear from people that have had this problem fixed.
  • victoria351victoria351 Member Posts: 6
    Are you kidding i love the car the only problem is i have had it for 3 years and i only put 20,000 miles on it. Raw deal in know. I will have to do whatever you guys tell me to do, because i am completely clueless about this car and the problems it suffers with! :cry:
  • antagantag Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 LS has about 105K miles on it. Lately, I have a bad overheating problem. I start the car and it runs fine. When the temperature gauge gets to half way I can hear I high pitched whining noise and the temperature starts to go up until it says check engine temperature. At that point I pull the car over and wait. I noticed that after a minute or two I could hear what sounds like a valve opening and fluid starting to run through the engine. At this point I can turn the car on and go. The high pitch whine is still there for a few moments, but goes away. This problem does not happen all the time. It seems to be worse in the colder weather and takes longer or more attempts for the "valve to open."

    Any ideas as to what could cause this. I have read many posts and it seems that it could be a number of things.

  • vinnygibsvinnygibs Member Posts: 2
    Honestly it can be a number of things. I have had the exact same problem. The high pitched whine or moan is the retarded hydraulic fan (this type of fan was discontinued in 2003). Under normal operating conditions however the fan shouldn't be noticed. I replaced my thermostat (fixed for 2 weeks) flushed the coolant (fixed for about 2 weeks). Bled the coolant system (yes the system must be bled or it will get dry locked) Again the problem would not go away only momentarily. In the end something as stupid as a tube falling off in the Degas Bottle caused the countless overheating problems. Believe it or not it was a mistake I discovered the tube issue. After bleeding my system for the twentieth time the bleeder screw fell into the degas bottle. Took it out and noticed what was air in my system. I jerry rigged a tube in there and it seems to work fine.The Bottle will run you about $160 if this your problem and you don't feel like being cheap. I love this car however if i didn't have the know how to fix it it would have bankrupt me. Good luck to you... take care ;)
  • heatprobheatprob Member Posts: 1
    I just had my transmission replaced on a 2002 LS V8. The mechanic took it for a drive after the tranny installed. Noticed the car was running hot. Checked the engine and transmission: both hot. He looked up in his online info and found that there is an after maket radiator upgrade. $500.00 to have that done.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    I hope he's right but I've been following these cars since they came out in 1999, owned one for 6 years and I've never heard of a radiator needing to be replaced. I'd bet it was either the fan, the thermostat or just an air bubble in the coolant.
  • cbharriscbharris Member Posts: 1
    What is the answer to #6 problem?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Air in the system, bad temp sensor, failed cooling fan, failed thermostat.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Where is the cooling system bleed screw located and how do you bleed thew system? Engine running cold or hot? Thanks.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Don't remember for sure but it's somewhere near the top of the engine - at the highest point. May be in one of the heater hoses. This will cause an air bubble full of steam that periodically passes by the temp sensor which causes it to think it's running hot. The steam is under pressure and is hotter than 212F. I don't remember the bleed procedure.
  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Member Posts: 226
    Thanks for the reply. I located it but I guess I'll keep looking for the correct procedure to bleed the system.
  • kevingdkevingd Member Posts: 1
    I am trying to find out if I am having similar problems and want to see if draining, flushing and adding new coolant fixes this.

    Can someone specifically say where the Lincoln LS's drain plug is for the radiator? And where is the radiator in the engine?

    thank you.
  • BigButtonsBigButtons Member Posts: 1

    Here is the procedure from the factory service manual:

    1. Remove the engine fill cap.
    On 3.0L engines
    2. Open the engine air bleed.
    On all engines
    3. Open the heater air bleed.
    4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
    On 3.0L engines
    5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
    On all engines
    6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
    On 3.9L engines
    CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
    contaminated with engine coolant.
    7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
    8. Replace the engine fill cap.
    On all engines
    9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
    Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
    10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
    11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
    cold fill MAX mark.
    12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
    On 3.9L engines
    13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On 3.0L engines
    15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On all engines
    17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
    18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
    19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
  • HappsterHappster Member Posts: 33
    I just recently had to refill the coolant system (had to replace the infamously crappy degas bottle) and still can't get heat at idle. I get heat when revving the engine up to 2000 rpms during the bleeding procedure you posted, but once it goes back down to idle I get nothing. Note how the directions say "check to see if you get heat at idle" but do not say what to do if you don't. I assumed I'd just need to go through the motions again, and did x 3, but still no heat at idle or during normal operating conditions. Sounds like low coolant, but after running it and letting it cool x 2, the degas bottle is at the right level. Sounds like air in the system too, but what else can I do to bleed it? Thanks,
  • gghhjjgghhjj Member Posts: 1
    Radiator problem is more than possible... There is an inside leak. The engine coolant goes in the transmission fluid when pressure builds up. No appearant leak, but look at the transmission fluid (you can look at it by the tiny reservoir at the passenger side of the engine. just remove the screen to take a sample). Orange and cloudy? You found your problem. Change rad, flush trany fluid completly.
  • vette176vette176 Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 2000 LS since new and have had overheating problems the last few years. I took it to every dealership in town and they would all say something different. Finally, a friend of mine that owns a repair shop said let's put an electric fan in it and since then, I have not had a problem. He used a jeep electric fan that fits perfect and disengaged the factory fan from hydraulic system. You can still see the pump turn but not connected to anything. Funny how ford only used this stupid system for a few years and changed over to an electric system. Mechanic used an empty slot in fuse box to give power to fan and fan only draws 1.2 volts. Fan runs entire time key is on or motor running. He also put a new thermostat in and what a difference car has been. The fix cost me 403.00 dollars fan was $203.00. I have been throwing money at this car for 2 years trying to fix problem changing solenoids, sensors, pump, caps, overflow bottle and all it needed was electric fan! need details email me [email protected] i will tell you exactly how to do it. goodluck!
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    The hydraulic fan was required on the early models due to a lack of available power. The fixed it in 2003. It's probably fine on yours - the mfr has to account for every possible device being on simultaneously and they have design specs to meet because of that. I would be careful about running the lights, defroster, stereo and seat heaters at the same time though.
  • johnny61johnny61 Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 lincoln ls v6 overheats with air condition running. the problem is the hydralic fan pump, it suppose to turn faster when a/c is on or car temp goes up and it fails. the solution is the electric actuator on the side of the pump is bad its job is to control the amount of fliud. it cost $91.00 and you will not need to remove the pump.
    1) buy the actuator
    2) buy a t-40 torque star male socket
    3) remove the only cable attached to the pump
    4) remove bolts from pump reservior and push to side
    5) remove bottom fliud hose from reservior (you will need a form cup to catch fluid in pump)
    6) now you have access to actuator with rachet and male star socket
    7) loosen the actuator (the middle only turns)
    8) screw in the new one and tighten
    10 reinstall electric cable and pump hose and rebolt pump reservior
    lincoln will run without running hot. caution filling the degas bottle with water may not fill the engine block, you may have to remove any large engine hose and run water directly into engine as well as degas bottle.
  • johndmunozjohndmunoz Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 lincoln ls V8 that is overheating. My AC was blowing very hot air then all of a sudden I had a overheating problem. I pulled over cause white smoke was coming out of the hood and Engine coolant spilled all over the ground. There was a hose that was blown off towards the front. I got some engine coolant and filled it back up and drove it to a nearby Autozone. They said it was the thermostat. I bought a thermostat and replaced it, worked for about 3-5 minutes then when I got on the highway going 50-60, it got overheated again. this time no spill, just a burning smell towards the back of the engine with a little white smoke coming out. AC also does not blow hot air anymore. Any suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    My guess is it's the serpentine belt. That belt drives both the a/c compressor and the water pump IIRC. If it came off then that could have knocked off the coolant hose also. Without it you won't get any cold air and the engine will overheat quickly. You should also get a check charging system light and eventually a dead battery since the alternator won't work either. Easy enough to check.
  • johndmunozjohndmunoz Member Posts: 2
    I checked the serpentine belt (Visually). It seemed to be working fine. After turning the car on and off to allow it to overheat, then looking and listening to what the car is doing, I saw a hose with a small little crack, nothing too major, it did have some coolant liquid leaking from it. When I turn the car off I can hear a hissing sound in the engine. I also can see and hear coolant boiling and level rising in the reservoir tank when the car is turned off also. I also saw and heard a large amount of coolant from the reservoir tank be distributed throughout the engine after I turned the car off. Any ideas after reading that? Thanks in advance.
  • akirbyakirby Member Posts: 8,062
    Is that a trick question? Fix the leaky hose and refill it with the proper antifreeze mixture and make sure you bleed out all the air. The A/C problem might be unrelated. If the radiator fan is working and it's full of coolant and you've replaced the thermostat correctly and it still overheats then it might be the water pump.
  • leelee24leelee24 Member Posts: 2
    hi i just bought a 2000 lincoln ls i havent had it 2 months and its over heating. When i bought the car it over heated the next day, i took back to them to fix the problem they told me it could of been a couple different things. so they came to the conclusion that it was the hydraulic hose. So i got my car back drove it for about 2 weeks and then it started overheating again. I let i run to c if how long it takes to get hot. Also see a little leak i think its the same hose that they call they self replacein so if they did replace it correctly what would cause it to go bad that quickly???? Can anyone help me out with this over heating problem PLEASE?????? Reply back on here or my email [email protected] thanks
  • leelee24leelee24 Member Posts: 2
    Hi can you tell me where you went to get your problem resolved. I might need to go see them asap. tired of ppl giving me the run around
  • jules_urbanjules_urban Member Posts: 1
    Car overheated and i replaced the thermostat. I bled the coolant system by opening the reservoir cap and running the car with the heat on high for an hour. Now all of the sudden it is spitting out coolant from the overflow in the reservoir but the car isn't overheating when i drive it. Did i do something wrong when bleeding it? Any infor would be appreciated

  • forozcoforozco Member Posts: 2
  • forozcoforozco Member Posts: 2
  • arejonarejon Member Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • arejonarejon Member Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • captrfdcaptrfd Member Posts: 2
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