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Lincoln LS Overheating Problems



  • rgnmstrrgnmstr Posts: 226
    Thanks for the reply. I located it but I guess I'll keep looking for the correct procedure to bleed the system.
  • I am trying to find out if I am having similar problems and want to see if draining, flushing and adding new coolant fixes this.

    Can someone specifically say where the Lincoln LS's drain plug is for the radiator? And where is the radiator in the engine?

    thank you.

    Here is the procedure from the factory service manual:

    1. Remove the engine fill cap.
    On 3.0L engines
    2. Open the engine air bleed.
    On all engines
    3. Open the heater air bleed.
    4. Add coolant to the degas bottle allowing the system to equalize until no more coolant can be added.
    On 3.0L engines
    5. Close the engine air bleed when coolant begins to escape.
    On all engines
    6. Replace the degas bottle cap.
    On 3.9L engines
    CAUTION: Care must be taken to ensure the accessory drive belt does not become
    contaminated with engine coolant.
    7. Add as much coolant as possible to the engine fill. The heater air bleed will remain open.
    8. Replace the engine fill cap.
    On all engines
    9. NOTE: The heater air bleed remains open.
    Start the engine and turn the heater to MAX position.
    10. Close the heater air bleed when a steady stream of coolant comes from it, during engine idle.
    11. Allow the engine to idle for five minutes, add coolant to the degas bottle as needed to maintain the
    cold fill MAX mark.
    12. Reopen the heater air bleed to release any entrapped air and close again.
    On 3.9L engines
    13. Maintain engine speed of 2,000 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    14. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On 3.0L engines
    15. Maintain engine speed of 1,500 rpm for 3-5 minutes or until hot air comes from the heater.
    16. Return to idle and verify hot air is still coming from the heater.
    On all engines
    17. Set the heater temperature setting to 24°C (75°F ) and allow the vehicle to idle for two minutes.
    18. Shut the engine off and allow to cool.
    19. After the engine has cooled, add coolant to the degas bottle to bring the level to the cold fill MAX
  • I just recently had to refill the coolant system (had to replace the infamously crappy degas bottle) and still can't get heat at idle. I get heat when revving the engine up to 2000 rpms during the bleeding procedure you posted, but once it goes back down to idle I get nothing. Note how the directions say "check to see if you get heat at idle" but do not say what to do if you don't. I assumed I'd just need to go through the motions again, and did x 3, but still no heat at idle or during normal operating conditions. Sounds like low coolant, but after running it and letting it cool x 2, the degas bottle is at the right level. Sounds like air in the system too, but what else can I do to bleed it? Thanks,
  • gghhjjgghhjj Posts: 1
    Radiator problem is more than possible... There is an inside leak. The engine coolant goes in the transmission fluid when pressure builds up. No appearant leak, but look at the transmission fluid (you can look at it by the tiny reservoir at the passenger side of the engine. just remove the screen to take a sample). Orange and cloudy? You found your problem. Change rad, flush trany fluid completly.
  • I have had my 2000 LS since new and have had overheating problems the last few years. I took it to every dealership in town and they would all say something different. Finally, a friend of mine that owns a repair shop said let's put an electric fan in it and since then, I have not had a problem. He used a jeep electric fan that fits perfect and disengaged the factory fan from hydraulic system. You can still see the pump turn but not connected to anything. Funny how ford only used this stupid system for a few years and changed over to an electric system. Mechanic used an empty slot in fuse box to give power to fan and fan only draws 1.2 volts. Fan runs entire time key is on or motor running. He also put a new thermostat in and what a difference car has been. The fix cost me 403.00 dollars fan was $203.00. I have been throwing money at this car for 2 years trying to fix problem changing solenoids, sensors, pump, caps, overflow bottle and all it needed was electric fan! need details email me i will tell you exactly how to do it. goodluck!
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,030
    The hydraulic fan was required on the early models due to a lack of available power. The fixed it in 2003. It's probably fine on yours - the mfr has to account for every possible device being on simultaneously and they have design specs to meet because of that. I would be careful about running the lights, defroster, stereo and seat heaters at the same time though.
  • my 2000 lincoln ls v6 overheats with air condition running. the problem is the hydralic fan pump, it suppose to turn faster when a/c is on or car temp goes up and it fails. the solution is the electric actuator on the side of the pump is bad its job is to control the amount of fliud. it cost $91.00 and you will not need to remove the pump.
    1) buy the actuator
    2) buy a t-40 torque star male socket
    3) remove the only cable attached to the pump
    4) remove bolts from pump reservior and push to side
    5) remove bottom fliud hose from reservior (you will need a form cup to catch fluid in pump)
    6) now you have access to actuator with rachet and male star socket
    7) loosen the actuator (the middle only turns)
    8) screw in the new one and tighten
    10 reinstall electric cable and pump hose and rebolt pump reservior
    lincoln will run without running hot. caution filling the degas bottle with water may not fill the engine block, you may have to remove any large engine hose and run water directly into engine as well as degas bottle.
  • I have a 2000 lincoln ls V8 that is overheating. My AC was blowing very hot air then all of a sudden I had a overheating problem. I pulled over cause white smoke was coming out of the hood and Engine coolant spilled all over the ground. There was a hose that was blown off towards the front. I got some engine coolant and filled it back up and drove it to a nearby Autozone. They said it was the thermostat. I bought a thermostat and replaced it, worked for about 3-5 minutes then when I got on the highway going 50-60, it got overheated again. this time no spill, just a burning smell towards the back of the engine with a little white smoke coming out. AC also does not blow hot air anymore. Any suggestions?
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,030
    My guess is it's the serpentine belt. That belt drives both the a/c compressor and the water pump IIRC. If it came off then that could have knocked off the coolant hose also. Without it you won't get any cold air and the engine will overheat quickly. You should also get a check charging system light and eventually a dead battery since the alternator won't work either. Easy enough to check.
  • I checked the serpentine belt (Visually). It seemed to be working fine. After turning the car on and off to allow it to overheat, then looking and listening to what the car is doing, I saw a hose with a small little crack, nothing too major, it did have some coolant liquid leaking from it. When I turn the car off I can hear a hissing sound in the engine. I also can see and hear coolant boiling and level rising in the reservoir tank when the car is turned off also. I also saw and heard a large amount of coolant from the reservoir tank be distributed throughout the engine after I turned the car off. Any ideas after reading that? Thanks in advance.
  • akirbyakirby Posts: 8,030
    Is that a trick question? Fix the leaky hose and refill it with the proper antifreeze mixture and make sure you bleed out all the air. The A/C problem might be unrelated. If the radiator fan is working and it's full of coolant and you've replaced the thermostat correctly and it still overheats then it might be the water pump.
  • leelee24leelee24 Posts: 2
    hi i just bought a 2000 lincoln ls i havent had it 2 months and its over heating. When i bought the car it over heated the next day, i took back to them to fix the problem they told me it could of been a couple different things. so they came to the conclusion that it was the hydraulic hose. So i got my car back drove it for about 2 weeks and then it started overheating again. I let i run to c if how long it takes to get hot. Also see a little leak i think its the same hose that they call they self replacein so if they did replace it correctly what would cause it to go bad that quickly???? Can anyone help me out with this over heating problem PLEASE?????? Reply back on here or my email thanks
  • leelee24leelee24 Posts: 2
    Hi can you tell me where you went to get your problem resolved. I might need to go see them asap. tired of ppl giving me the run around
  • Car overheated and i replaced the thermostat. I bled the coolant system by opening the reservoir cap and running the car with the heat on high for an hour. Now all of the sudden it is spitting out coolant from the overflow in the reservoir but the car isn't overheating when i drive it. Did i do something wrong when bleeding it? Any infor would be appreciated

  • forozcoforozco Posts: 2
  • forozcoforozco Posts: 2
  • arejonarejon Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • arejonarejon Posts: 2
    Hi johnny61:
    I have a 2002 Lincoln LS with the same problem. Where can I buy the electric actuator?
    A lot of people tell me to get rid of that hydrauli system and make the fans electric, What do you think?
  • Hi guys I have read all your post, had the same problem , this is my 100% working solution:
    possible problem #1 refill with cooling fluid, fill first from the top tube over the thermostat (the one with the Allen wrench on the cap), fill the fluid reservoir let it run fr five minutes refill both again if needed.
    Problem#2 Bad Hydraulic fan:
    remove fan from car, replace with a high speed fan, I used a 1991 ford topaz electric fan with an ice cube 40 amp relay connected to an ignition fuse(eat dirt Lincoln engineering) install a connecting tube between the two hydraulic fan pump lines
    Problem #3 Bad Hydraulic fan pump:
    same steps as problem #2 but remove hydraulic pump and replace lower pulley with an alternator pulley, replace serpentine belt with a 114 inch belt (smaller than stock)
    it works for me and best of all runs a few degrees cooler than stock
  • I want to replace my hydraulic system with an electric. Can you tell me how its done.

    (2000 lincoln LS) Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric.
  • 200 Lincoln LS. Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric fan. I can't see to figure out exactly whats wrong with me cool system.
  • I have this same problem and want to resolve it the same way you did. I have see many after market electric cooling fans for the ls and wonder if you knew the best on that would work. Also I need detailed instructions on how to replace and wire up the electric fan. Please help I am tired of constantly having to worry about the car not running right and it is a very nice car and would like to keep it if possible
  • wallyrswallyrs Posts: 1
    Have 2001 Lincoln LS I'm having the same problem. After bleeding & filling the reservoir I have change the reservoir once before this is my second. Had a crack on the bottom of the tank. Is there something I'm missing. I think when I turn on the A/C it doesn't hold the Pressure and it cracks. need help send me email
  • I have a Lincoln ls v6 2001 with 115000 miles. Heres whats going on with my car.

    The check engine light is on.
    the air bag light lights up flashes a couple of times and then stays on.
    Then the oil light comes up when the car is on the regular temperature, whenever im slowing down the oil light comes up, then when i accelerate it goes away.

    Then it has been overheating sometimes. last sunday overheated, week before that too, then today tuesday did it again. On sunday i left it cooling for a couple of hours then it was normal, the fans work but when it overheates the fans arent working.

    Could this all be because of the oil pressure that is too low
    ' if so how can i fix it? any tips on this would be appreciate it
  • Is the check engine light flashing, or solid? You've got a v-6? Pull the OBD code.

    The air bag light is likely a bad clock spring (behind the steering wheel). When you unplug a component of the air bag system, it trips the light to tell you to recalibrate it, which is a simple process done with a computer at the dealer (about $90). But if you haven't unplugged any component, it is likely a worn connection in the clock spring. The clock spring powers up everything in your steering wheel, including your air bag, while still enabling you to turn the wheel round and round (if they just rans wires, the wires would twist and break). If there is a bad connection, its the equivalent of unplugging the steering wheel air bag every time you turn the vehicle. So if you just get the system recalibrated, it'll trip the light again leaving the dealer's lot. There is no code to identify this problem. Anything else not working on your steering wheel (cruise control? radio control? horn?)? If so, it's defintiely the clock spring. They're about $80 and you need a wheel puller, but it's a simple job. Ford/Lincoln/Mercuries are famous for weak clock springs.

    See my prior post regarding my experience with the overheating. The degas bottle (overflow tank) has a design flaw that cause a crack along a seam, which lets air into the system and causes antifreeze to leak out at higher RPMS (when you're on the highway and won't notice). Air acts as a blockage and causes overheating. Others have cursed the hydraulic fans as constantly failing/inconsistent, and replaced them with electric ones. I haven't had that issue. A new degas bottle and a system fill/air purge and I've been fine for another 20k so far. The degas bottle is pulled through the driver's side wheel well (remove the wheel and wheelwell cover). Check it for visible signs of cracking. If not, you've likely got the fan problem.

    The oil issue-potentially very serious. Assuming you're sure your oil is full, the correct viscosity and fresh, I'd replace the oil pressure switch (likely near the oil filter housing) first. It's relatively cheap and always a good one to keep fresh. If the problem recurs, your oil pump could be failing. That could increase friction and contribute to an overheating problem, but with a failing oil pump, overheating would be the least of your worries.
  • yeah the check engine light is solid, which could be a sensor or anything, im pulling the code later today or tomorrow.

    The problem i have with the fan is that it stops working all of the sudden, and i cant get it to start, even with the a/c on, but then how come sometimes i turn on my car and the stupid fan is working right? Everytime the car randomly decides to overheat i check the fan and the fan has stopped.

    Well i took it to a mechanic and he had told me that the oil presure was low, but he didnt do any computer test or anything, and the guy before that one told me a need the whole cooling system new ( which he was wrong since my cooling system works but something is messing with the reaction of it)

    for the oil, i used a bottle of Lucas today which helps with the lubrication of the oil and see if it goes away. I will be getting it check by another person see what they say.
  • well today unpluged the fan , theres a connection down there hiding by the pump and put it back and magically the fans are working perfectly and even the oil light disappeared. For now its working perfectly idk if maybe the connection there was dirty or something
  • For a few months now, I've had an issue with the car overheating. I've never seen smoke or anything, but every now and again, the temp gauge will go to "H". Normally, if I set it on cruise control, it'll eventually go back down. In the event I'm in stop-and-go traffic, it will reduce engine pressure. At that time, I'll pull over, turn the car off for a few minutes, then restart. It'll be fine for the rest of the trip. I finally had it hooked up to the code reader and got the following codes - P0053 (Heat & Oxygen Heater Resistance Bank 1 Sensor 1), P0153 (Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1), P1299 (Society of Automotive Engineers Engine Over Temp Condition), and P1295 (Oxygen Sensor Biased/Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1). I was told I needed to replace the two oxygen sensors up front.

    So, when I took my vehicle to Pep Boys for brake service today, I told them I also wanted the sensors replaced, if they had them in stock. They ran the diagnostic and now the guy is telling me that CO2 was detected in the cooling system and I need to have my head gaskets replaced. He then said it would be upwards of $2500 to fix and referred me to the Lincoln dealer. Is this accurate?
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