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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • woodywwwoodyww Posts: 1,810
    nanuq: Thanks for all the advice; I read your post several times. We don't have as severe winter conditions here in Mass. as you do, but I think snow tires may be very necessary on the RR & I will look into getting 16" rims & Nokians. Have you ever compared the Nokians to Artic Alpins, or Blizzaks, etc.?

    The weird thing is that despite the awful gas mileage, & poor snow performance with the stock tires, the RR is growing on me more every day, & it is very excellent in urban/surburban everyday driving; an extremely impressive vehicle & that's without even using it off-road yet. I'm actually having some sick thoughts of selling my BMW (M6), a very beautiful car, but I've had it for a long time, & buying a Defender (?). Not sure that makes a lot of sense but at this point the truck fetish seems to be overtaking the urge to own German cars.

    cheers! Steve
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    "Cheers"??? Uh-ohhh... you're hooked! (grin)

    Actually winters in Mass. may be worse than here. The warm snow is slick and heavy, and treacherous to drive in. Nice dry cold snow is almost like driving on pavement, believe it or not. In heavy wet snow you'll like the Nokians, they have DEEP tread in the LT series and they cut thru the slop nicely. Blizzaks work great for the first half of the tread then they get down to normal dense rubber and wear better, but offer less traction. I've read GOOD things about Alpins... but sorry, no specifics. Another to consider are BFG Trac-Edge... lots of people run them here, the lugged shoulders are good in slop and in mud.

    Good luck with your decision, -Bob
  • div2div2 Posts: 2,580
    AAAAACKKK! Dont even THINK of selling the M6! I sold my 1988 six years ago and have regretted it ever since. I love LRs, but think this through, man!
  • I just bought a 96 Discovery SE7 with 62,000 miles. After getting used to all of the nuances of the Rover, I am completely hooked. However, my rear door now will not open. I can lock and unlock the door, but the latch will open the door. Since the Rover did not come with an owners manual, am I missing something? Any advise will be helpful.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Oh man, think think think... I read something about this a couple years ago. What was it?!!!

    In the black outside housing that holds the rear door latch there's a little green oval plastic logo insert. I believe that pops out (be careful not to break it!) and you can get in there with some WD-40 to loosen the mechanism. Please be careful, I *think* this is right but I am not certain and I'd hate to have you break the insert.

    Regards, -Bob
  • I'm looking at a 97 Disco with 40,000 miles and leather seats,dual moon roofs (basically loaded) What's a good price to pay?(from a dealer) Thanks for any help!They want $19,600.
  • waskowasko Posts: 103
    Bob is right - put a little screwdriver behind the green oval - pops right out. I've had it off 3-4 times over the past and it does get kinda gummed up in there. A little WD-40 should really help you out in there.

    You'll see the plate inside that controls the rear door handle. Just work that up and down from both the inside and outside and keep WD40 going on the edges and you should be golden.

    Everytime I change my oil, I hit all the door hinges and other areas with WD, including removing the oval and hitting that area as well.

    Thanks - wasko
  • waskowasko Posts: 103

    Price doesn't seem too out of line. I would jot the VIN number down and take it to a Rover dealer (if you're not buying it from a Rover dealer) and they can pull up all of the vehicle's history for you. If you go back and read the previous posts, I would look out for sagging springs, rusted muffler, make sure it has the new valves (nanuq can add to this), make sure the dash (up by the windshield) isn't peeling, etc.

    Other than that, you should be in great shape! Land Rovers are a love/hate relationship and if you're committed, they'll give you years of pleasure. Enjoy.

    Thanks - wasko
  • Thanks guys for the advise for the stuck door. I did everything that you suggested and it worked!! One more question. How do you get back to the rear tail light area to change the light bulbs? When I step on the brake pedal, the light does not come on, but when I turn the lights on, the light works. I'm sure it's either the bulb, or a fuse. Again, any advise will be helpful. I checked the service records on this vehicle at LR of Alexandria, and they took excellent care of the vehicle, but I think they got tired of spending money on the vehicle. I'm willing to try to fix these little things myself, and I'm going to buy the service manual. Thanks in advance.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    The plastic inside mouldings in back have two oblong vertical openings held on by philips screws, usually with little plastic covers over the heads. Pop these off, remove the screws and you'll see the wiring harness, and white plastic plugs that hold the bulbs. These are the "push in and turn" plugs, and they're easy to remove. You'll want to get the Real Deal bulbs, for some reason someone said the generic dual filament bulbs used by 99.99% of the rest of the cars in the world won't work right... and the Rover bulbs are surprisingly not expensive. Pop the new bulb in its holder, and crack open a pint of ale... you'll be there 15 minutes trying to put the white plastic plug back in right. It looks easy but I CANNOT get them back in first try! Maybe my hands are too big...

    While you're at the Rover Shop pick up 10 of those bulbs that go in the bumper, side markers and parking lights. They're cheap too, and once one blow just replace them all. They're also the "push in and turn" sockets.

    Make sure you have your plugs seated right when you're done, there are foam rubber seals to keep dirt out of your reflectors.

    Regards, -Bob
  • woodywwwoodyww Posts: 1,810
    nanuq: Interesting observations on diff. types of snow, & I appreciate the advice on various snow tires. I think I'll look for a used set of 16" rims, & get the snow tires next Fall. And yes, I am getting hooked.....

    div2: "Thanks, I needed that!" Seriously, you are so right, & I have always been afraid that I would want to shoot myself if I sold the M6. Usually just going out to the garage & looking at it cures me of any thoughts of selling. Mine's an '88 too; low miles......pretty much mint....what was I thinking???? Anyway, thanks again, I needed to hear that from someone who has been there....

  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I'm glad to help. We got a ton of snow last night and it's still coming down hard, leaving 1' to 2' in the middle of the street. I was glad for the tall Nokians this morning, I left grooves in the snow with the diffs and I packed some snow up around the engine and into the wheelwells, but I had no trouble at all getting around. Even where people have plowed their driveways out into the road, I just hit it a little harder and blasted right through.

    One more nice thing about the Nokians (or BFG Trac-Edges) they have a nice lug in the tread at the outer edges, and if you start bogging down you can see-saw the steering back and forth as you hunt with the throttle, and the lugs tend to find traction and keep you moving.

    I came *that* close to burying the Disco over the weekend in some 3-4' drifts but managed to just crawl out the other side with the wheels churning. If I'd been going 5mph slower I would have floated up on top and punched down in, and got stuck. So yes, you can drive too fast and float your tires in the snow, losing traction... slowing down on the road will keep you under better control. But, offroad/backroad sometimes speed is your friend (not too much speed) and it will carry you through with momentum, sort of aiming for the softest spots as you work your way through. It's a fine touch to get the hang of it.

    Enjoy the snow! -Bob
  • lmc1lmc1 Posts: 8
    I realize this is off the topic but I need some advice. I've bee thinking about purchasing a used Land Rover (Discovery or Range Rover) but only have dealer knowledge of the two vehicles. I really don't want to go to far back.. 1999/2000. What should I expect to pay on a loaded vehicle. Should I go as far back as 99? What mileage shouldn't I go past? Does anyone have any input on this topic. Please help!
  • I want to buy a 96 - 97 Discovery. Sell me or shoot me.
    I look at Car Point (man) ratings and I feel good about it - I read some of these threads and I get the opposite idea.
    Owning one seems either a great experience or misery.
    Please, someone who really knows - what's the story?
  • I'd like to invite all you new (and old) LR owners to come and join the Colorado LR club, the "Solihull Society", for their "National Land Rover Rally" off-road event August 2 thru 5, in Quray, Co.

    It's a family affair, lots of Rovers of all types, and you can see what these things will do. Really do ! Go to their web page and find out more (just search for Solihull Society).

    As for the last two posts above, let me say the following: I would buy only a 2000 and up Disco II, NOT a '99. I had one and it was the biggest piece of monkey crap ever assembled - my 2000 DII however has been absolutely perfect for one year and 13,500 miles! For older Disco's, buy as late as you can find (97 - early 99); stay away from 95 and early 96's.
  • lmc1lmc1 Posts: 8
    rkoesler: Thanks for the Disco help. What changed during that year, that in your opinion helped the vehicle so much?

    Again, if anyone has opinions on LR's please let me know. Is a 99 Range Rover w/ 20k miles worth looking at? Or is a Dicso w/ 10K a better choice.
    Any info would be great.
  • what would be considered an early '96 disco? My disco was delivered to the dealer in Sept. '96, but the dates on some of the parts are from March 1996...just curious...thanks lk
  • I am thinking about purchasing a 95 Discovery with 84K miles for $10,000 via private sale. It looks perfect. Aside from the sticking valves, sagging springs, and peeling dash, what else should I be looking for?

    Also, would you recommend that I bring the VIN to the local dealer or maybe have them plug in to the truck to run the codes?

    ANy info would be helpful, my wife is in love with the machine.
  • We live here in Virginia Beach and made a day of it and drove down to Land Rover Cary in NC last year to buy our Discovery. Wonderful dealership, very nice vehicle purchase experience. Our sales guide Woody was finiest kind. 29K to date and not a single problem.
  • lgraylgray Posts: 5
    HELP! I live near Atlanta, where there are 3 Land Rover Centers owned by the same company. There is absolutely no negotiating on price in this market. I am considering going to a neighboring state where I know that I can get at least $1500 off MSRP without even trying from a dealership that is not a LR Center.

    I'm getting the lines from the local dealership (where I would take any vehicle I purchase for service...) about no loaners with a non-Land Rover center purchase, no participation in "Wheels" events, etc. I'm not sure what to do! Is it really worth it to pay MSRP if I live in a market that only has Land Rover Centers? They have to service or repair any LR product, whether it was purchased there or not. Are the "extras" I would get from buying from a Center worth it?

    What are other people doing out there??? Are people negotiating on kits and other accessories in place of price? I could really use some advice! I've never paid MSRP for a vehicle! I'm a wreck over this! I'd really like to hear about the buying experiences of Disco owners. I'm sure there are a lot of people who would like to hear too!

    You can send email to [email protected], if you'd like.

    Thanks in advance!

  • lgraylgray Posts: 5
    I was just wondering how things worked out for you? You didn't buy from a Land Rover Center, did you? I think things must be a lot different in cities where dealerships are not all owned by the same group, as far as wheeling and dealing goes. I'd like to hear about your deal. Tell me how you felt after the sale. Has it ben everything you hoped it would be? I hope so!


  • dr0dr0 Posts: 1
    Hi all...I live in TX and I am seriously considering purchasing a LR from , I have been reading the posts and am really starting to get scared...are there really that many problems with LR's??...if so why would anyone want to buy them??...anyone who has had minimal to no problems with their LR and with words of encouragement are welcome to respond...


  • Hi folks,
    I have a 2000 Discovery II and here on our wonderful New Hampshire frost heaved roads, over choppy roads (nearly all) I am getting a "clacking" sound, almost like wooden blocks or metallic balls, coming from somewhere behind and above the glove box in the dash. Its hard to pin point the exact location because of the tone, but it could be almost as high up as where to dash meets the door post.
    Anyone had this problem and found a cure?
  • "Imc1", I don't know for sure how two identical DII's (my early built '99 and 00) can be so different. I think that LR builds something, then lets the consumer provide the dependability test -they see what goes wrong, and then redesign it. I had 18 warranty related repairs on the 99 in 10 months, and not one problem with the 00 in 8 months and 13500 miles. My service manager says the same thing: buy a vehicle built as late as possible for the model you want, and hopefully it will serve you well.
  • lmc1lmc1 Posts: 8
    "rkoesler", thanks for the help. You must have gone nuts with all the issues your 99 had. Did you lemon law the vehicle?
  • gpvsgpvs Posts: 214
    When I had my Disco before, I purchased it at a LR Centre in Maryland but had it serviced in 2 other locations both gave free loaners. I don't know why they would not service your car if you didn't buy it from a LR Centre. I'm not sure if free loaners are part of the LR experience, so you may check with Land Rover and also ask them what your 3 centres told you about service.
    BTW, I was able to negotiate some on the price but then, that was like 3 years ago.
  • hjdhjd Posts: 1
    I've got a 1999 Disc. II with 19,000 miles. At 10,000 miles the car needed new rotors and new brake pads, which cost over $1000 (brakes and rotors are excluded from the Warranty as "wear and tear" items. At 19,000 miles, the pads wore out again and I had to spend another $550.00. That's over $1500.00 in less than a year in brake work. The Service Tech claims this is normal for this vehicle. Anyone else experience such rapid brake pad/rotor wear? Anyone try to get Land Rover to cover the cost?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I replaced the front pads on my '96 Disco at 13k miles, they were shot at that point. For what it's worth, that was the most enjoyable project I've ever done on a truck, what a great design! I replaced the pads with generics, bought at a local car parts store. I put on SOFT pads while I had the choice... pads are cheaper than rotors, which are notorious for needing replacement at around 80k miles. I'm watching my rear pads like a hawk now, ready to move when they get too thin.

    Just for the sake of grins, when I did the front wheels I ordered Wagner pads and waited a week. When they got here I thought "gee that's a big box" and lo and behold, there were brake SHOES in there. :) No charge for the return shipping!

    My advice: buy some simple tools and a manual and get to know your truck. Honestly, the brakes on a Disco are a dream to repad.

    Regards, -Bob
  • Hello, "Imc1". I did try to go the "lemon" route with LRNA and the dealer, but after much debate and letter writing, I just gave up and traded for a 00 Toyota 4R Limited 4wd (what a great vehicle!).

    LRNA, the dealer, and LR regional Rep. all basically said: "if you have problems, we're sorry, but that's what the warranty is for". As for inconvenience, the dealer always had a new DII loaner to give me, but it was still a pain to always have to go to the dealer, and wait for parts (a big problem with LR).

    While I loved the 4R, it was just too perfect - it was boringly reliable, and I really missed my DII. So I sold the Toy, and bought a new 00 DII - now I'm happy, especially since it has been almost as good as the Toy.
  • You should never pay MSRP on a Rover. You should be looking at over invoice price. I was able to get $300 over invoice on a '99 Disco II back in early 1999 here in the Washington DC area.
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