By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I've read hundreds of posts from this board and am grateful. In my first post I have the following questions:
1. I'd like auto, so I think LX makes more sense than Ex. I love the fact of ordering remote keylocks for $66.
2. Does anyone know about any factory-to -dealer incentives, or what the standard holdback for Honda is?
3. Does $300 over invoice seem to be the desired price?
4. Does anyone know of any good dealers in the Western New York (Buffalo) area? There are 3.
5. I've tried submitting info to the online services for a quote 2 weeks ago and have not been contacted back. The best price by far of the instant quotes was carorder.com., and I hear that they are out of business. Any thoughts?
6. Are the advertising and doc fees standard.
Thanks in advance.
For example, I test drove an Acura TL a few months back and found headroom to be rather cramped. It measures 39.9 in. I test drove a Mazda Miata yesterday and (with the top up) I found headroom to be equally cramped, but not significantly more so. It measures 37.1 in. There's a difference of nearly 3 inches between them, but they felt the same to me.
I *think* that they measure headroom by taking the distance between the seat cushion and the roof directly above it (like a plumb line). As soon as you lean the seat backward, it extends the linear distance. The difference between the Miata and TL may be that the Miata seating position is angled back farther as the seat is right on the floor.
Anyway, the point is you can't always trust the numbers. Go take a test drive. (BTW, I'm 6'2", I sit bolt upright, and I have about two inches clearance above my noodle.)
Regarding power: The CR-V will probably accelerate faster than your Tahoe, but it won't feel that way. Off the line the CR-V feels like an econobox (which it is). It doesn't have a great deal of low end torque, but once you get it rolling, it'll giddyup. I recommend driving the 5 speed as it allows you to make better use of the lil 2.0L rice burner.
I get a kick out of this link. For all the hype about the CR-V being underpowered, it's the only mini suv to make Edmunds "performance truck" list. (You have to scroll to the bottom.)
http://www.edmunds.com/edweb/highperf.html
2. Holdback is about 2%.
3. $300 - 500 over invoice is a good price to aim for, but if demand in your area is high, it may be tough to get. Comparison shop and use the internet sites to get good price quotes.
6. You should pay the price of the car, tax, tags, and license. Doc fees are pretty standard and typically aren't that much, but you can fight them if you want. Anything else that has the word "fees" in it means extra profit for the dealer.
(varmit) Thank you for topic discussion about fitting large items in CRV. My uncle called to ask me if 8ft. boards would fit if used "bed" method. He's still deciding on whether to buy SE. This may help!
Also, does anyone have any recommendations re: reputable dealerships in northern NJ / NYC area? I already know, from reading prior posts (thanks y'all!), to avoid Bob Ciasulli Honda... Any other suggestions? How about Route 23 Honda in Pomptain Plains? Has anyone out there used them? They are the designated dealer for this area for purchases through Costco, so if Costco pricing is significantly better, I may have to use them. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance for your input.
Time for the next one. What would be the best modification to make for the CR-V (V-6, yeah, I hear ya, but what else)? Reading posts over at the CR-V IX, I see a lot of nice aftermarket mods being added. What would everybody here like to add?
Me? I'd like to have the SE's painted bumpers available as an option for the EX in all colors. They look pretty darn spiffy, and I like the fact that the lower section is left alone (less damage that way).
BTW, you don't have to own one to give your $.02 on the subject.
Thanks!
Marti
-Trevor
www.Honda-Accessories.com
Where do you live???? CR-V's are going for under invoice where I live. And Carsdirect is selling them at invoice.
I live in N.Y.C. where under invoice is not going to happen. I am confident that I got a good deal.
Has anyone put a double DIN or ISO non-Honda stereo in themselves? I bought a double-high Kenwood DPX600, and I am looking for the brackets to do it right. I understand that they come already installed in CRVs in the Phillipines (other places too?), so there must be brackets available. Kenwood has not provided any answers so far. Thanks
1. A vtec would be nice - just would like to rev up to 8K.
2. More towing capacity.
3. Factory installed sunroof - I don't trust aftermarkets.
just my short list. ;-)
thanks for the input re: Costco. What dealership in NYC did you deal with? And what model cr-v did you get? By going through Costco, did you have to buy in bulk, like a three-pack of CR-Vs?
but one interesting thing did occur, i got to see the dealer transfer paperwork (i.e. the actual invoice) for the ex automatic i *was* going to buy. the dealer transfer invoice was $19,623.... (this included destination!) so the dealer was still making $370.00 on the invoice price before hold back (another $411.00 dineros in holdback -for a grand total profit of $781.00!!! before they got past printed invoice pricing)
honda sales people are apparently not allowed to see the invoices, but if you get a bunch of bs about invoice price, request to see the invoice -this usually has to be done with a manager, but it can be a great bargining tool. and never for one moment believe they aren't going to make a buck on you (i don't sound bitter do i? :-) -just thought ya'll might find that interesting.
1. The dealer said he could sell me an EX automatic, with passenger armrest, fog lamps, alarm system, and roof rack for "under $21000," including tax, title, license. I thought this was a GREAT deal. Is it too good to be true? He quoted the options roughly as follows:
fog lamps: $350
alarm system: $200
roof rack: (I don't recall)
passenger armrest $80
So, depending on the roofrack price (anyone out there know what dealers typically charge for it?), he's adding probably between $630 and $1000 in options to an invoice of $19,500. Adding in TTL and keeping it under $21,000 would mean he's selling it under invoice, unless I've missed something...
2. Has anyone gotten dealer installed fog lamps? Are they effective and worth the $350? Is buying them at an online parts store and installing them myself a comparable alternative? How difficult is installation?
3. How about the alarm system? Has anyone gotten it? Do they actually do $200 worth of parts and labor or is it another preinstalled item, like keyless remote entry, that dealer simply activates in seconds and makes a big profit?
4. Finally, is it worthwhile to have the dealer install the roof rack? I'm inclined to let the dealer be the one to drill holes in the roof rather than me, but I'd be interested in hearing about other people's opinions or experiences.
Thanks in advance for your commentary. I've been reading this board for a few weeks and find all of you very helpful.
caritis: I am considering adding a roof rack to my CRV-SE. The dealer qouted 450.00 at the time of purchase but I decided not to do it. I called again and they qouted 500.00. I checked a few places online and the OEM is about 200.00. I had a friend (who's a mechanic) installed one on his '98 and is quite happy with it but complains of increased wind noise. Also with the alarm and fog lights, I believe it's best to leave it up to the dealer as to not void the warranty.
That said, I think I'm going to have my roof rack installed by a dealer next month. I'll keep you updated.
OEM Fog lights. About $170. Requires wire harness ($30) and switch ($15). Must cut bumper cover and drill in bumper to install. Aftermarket lights offer much more flexibility for the price.
Passenger Armrest. $42. Requires small cut in seat. 20min install time. DIY
Alarm. $145 for the module $50 for attachment harness. For $200, let them do it.
The second beef is the stereo. It is pretty weak. Some of my older cd's that are not digital cannot be played at a loud volume even when the dial is maxxed out. Also, the sound quality is nothing to cheer about. I definately need an upgrade in speakers and probably an amp.
The alarm system isn't keyless-remote simple; there is stuff that needs to be added under the hood and under the dash.
1. After removing the roof molding, were there holes in place for screwing in the adapter block? If not, then did you need to drill?
2. Are you happy with the installation? Any problems?
3. What was the hardest part?
I am anxiously awaiting your reply. I may consider doing it myself.
Thanks.
As far as the stereo goes, get some good speakers, subwoofer, tweeter kit, an amp, and a new head unit. Be forwarned that a big investment in aftermarket audio may not give you the sound you're looking for. If you want more highs for clarity, get the tweeter kit. It really improves the high end.
the only half-way mechanical thing that you would have to do is to cut the molding so that you can re-install it around the mounts. I used a hack-saw (there is a metal strip in the molding). the ends of the molding where they are cut may look ragged, but they are covered by the mount plate pads (rubber pads). just measure them within a 2-3 inch accuracy and you should have no problems. just make sure when you re-install the molding to gently tap it back on. if you thump it with a hammer it could get a dent/ding very easily. luckily i found this out in a place that ended up being covered by the mount pads.
Now to convince the wife. ;-)
Thanks again.
actually if i did it over again i would not have purchased it over the net. after i had come to an agreement on the price of my crv by phone, i went and ordered the rack over the net. then 2 days later when i picked up the crv i asked the salesman if he would match the hparts.com prices for the front splash guards and touch up paint. he said he couldn't but to ask across the street at their parts / repair site. i handed the guy the net printout with the prices and he said no problem. i could have bought it all right there and had it in my hands right away. i had to wait a week to get it in the mail after ordering from the net.
as far as any problems / complaints about the install processe... not really. except that it was a really hot day when i installed it....
i didn't mean to confuse anyone, i was just marveling at the some of the lines used by car salespeople about how they have to make a profit. i find it interesting to note that on the vehicle i was going to buy, they still cleared a decent profit before it even hit the public invoice price. just something to think about...i figure there are far too many buyers who get back ended by payments, unfair trade in prices or who just don't do their homework to ensure dealers don't go out of business. this i will not lose sleep over.. :-}
btw, the price was already negotiated -but when i went in the sales guy essentially refused to honor the deal. that's why i was not very happy.
Good luck in your purchasing adventures!
Stephen
I visited the Costco-affilliated dealer in New Jersey and got a price that I think I'm going to act on. I posted a few days ago that he quoted me "under $21000" for an EX automatic w/ dealer installed passenger armrest, roofrack, alarm system, and foglamps. When I wrote that I mistakenly thought that TTL was included. It's not. But I still think it's a good price, so I think I'm gonna get it. No other dealer has been able to match it. If that price is due to my being a Costco member, then my Costco membership was the best $35 dollars I ever spent!
CRV-EX's with identical equipment. The first is
brand spanking new and with a beater of a trade
the dealer wants 16,500 cash. The second at another dealer has 547 miles on it and I can drive
home, minus the same beater of a trade, for $15,000. Thoughts?
a leased car, thus titled, that was turned back in
within two weeks as they found out they needed a
bigger vehicle. The other dealer will now add a
sunroof for an out the door price of $16,800.
I appreciate the thoughts.
It sounds fishy that the car was leased and returned. Once a leasee signs a contract, they are bound by it and can't easily break it, without a huge financial penalty. I bet the car was purchased and returned when the owner couldn't get financing. You can go to www.carfax.com and enter the VIN# to find out whether it was really leased or not. Costs $10 though. Anyways, I think the CR-V with 5 miles is the better choice.
Hope this helps.