I almost bought a car that had 500+ miles. It was driven around by a dealer salesman. I ultimately bought a new vehicle. I like keeping my vehicles and felt I would rather pay the premium of knowing exactly how it was driven the whole time. Where are you located? This vehicle was in Southern California.
I am 6'6 and fit nicely in the CRV. I love Hondas and probably would have liked to have bought a 2000 Accord, however I had trouble getting in and out of the newer models. You should be quite comfortable in the CR-V. As far as power goes, I am not a speed demon however I am pleased with the CRV acceleration. Maybe a little noisy at times, but I don't have a problem with that.Gas milage is very decent and most important of all, you are buying a Honda which means you are buying one of the most dependable cars on the market today. I have a CR-V EX with auto trans and love ever inch of it. Good luck, "Another Tall Guy"
I honestly don't understand why some choose to buy a manual, if money isn't an issue. I recently rented a Honda S2000 roadster (6 speed manual) and had difficulty driving it. I constantly had to restart the engine due to the engine dying. I had a lot of diffculty changing gears, as the clutch required a lot of force. I eventually returned it and got a BMW X5 (automatic).... for a $50K car, it sucks... drives like a damn Ford Expedition! The CR-V seems more refined in certain situations.
I went with the car with 5 miles not the however-used 547 mile vehicle. Out the door with an electric sunroof at a net of $16,800. I think it was a good deal, but you never know. NOW my next question is would anyone recommend the extended warranty of 7 years/75,000 miles bumper to bumper for $895 and will they negotiate that price? Again thanks in advance for your insights.
Can anyone explain how the RT4WD works? I guess it's supposed to kick in when the car senses a need for it. But how does it know, and when it does kick in, can you feel the change in how it drives? How long does it take before it kicks in? Does it kick in so quickly that you don't even feel that you've been on a slippery surface or do you actually feel the transition? How well does it perform in snow & ice?
Congrats! Hope you have a looooong trip planned for the holidays, since you'll want to drive it for a long time. Btw, what color is it?
It's hard to gauge whether it was a good deal or not, since you didn't mention the selling price, trade-in value, fee's, etc. But, paying more for the 542-miles-lower, electric sunroof and peace of mind of a brand new car, is well worth the extra $1800. I mean, sunroof alone costs $1200.
I don't think an extended warranty is essential. I would only consider it if it was for 120K miles or more. I just think 75K miles is too short for an extended warranty.... since most problems manifest themselves after over 100K miles. I know someone whose Honda blew a head gasket around 120K miles.... he had to buy a new engine. I would also consider www.warrantygold.com... since their's is a "bumper to bumper" warranty, not just a "powertrain only" warranty.
You can certainly negotiate the price of the warranty with your dealer. But, you can also buy one three years from now, when the original warranty expires. For me, I'm glad I didn't buy one for my Accord, since I ended up selling it after only one year.
Hi. I'm new to Town Hall, and appreciate all of your posts. I own a '98 Honda Civic, and love it, but I'm thinking about buying a CR-V. I have questions:
1. I've read in Consumer Reports about a side-impact test 2-26-00 by the NHTSA that resulted in a roll-over. Has anyone heard about that? Has Honda acted to correct the problem? Have any of you ever felt that the CR-V was unstable on a turn?
2. I've always driven manual transmission cars, but I wonder whether I should get an automatic this time. I'm in the SF Bay Area, and am in stop-and-go traffic a lot. Is there a reason to get one or the other?
3. Can I really get a sunroof on the CR-V? I love mine on the Civic, and not having one is almost reason enough NOT to get the CR-V!! But if I could . . . wow!
4. Does Costco sell cars everywhere or just in certain regions? I haven't heard about it, but I'll definitely check.
5. What about waiting until the new models come out before I buy? Is it a good idea to buy the 2000's just before the 2001's come out, or is the vehicle technically a year old even if it's never been driven?
6. Does anyone have experience with kids and spills and the cloth seats (EX) vs. the leather seats (EX SE)?
I went to Honda dealer yesterday and got a quote of 18900 (including destination charge) for CRV AWD with automatic transmission.I personally think this price is reasonably fair. How do you guys think?
Amya, I was in the same situation when considering a CR-V. If I couldn't get it with a sunroof then I most certainly would reconsider. I consulted with Warren Brown, the auto guru at the Washington Post and he said by all means I can get a sunroof installed, either by the dealership or at an independent shop (which he said most of the dealerships use anyway). My CRV SE is due in any time and I plan to take it to the sunroof shop the next day!
Newc2000 - I also have a manual transmission which will not go into gear. I have found if I roll forward or back just a small amount, I can then put into gear. I also had an acura that did this so thought it was a Honda thing.
1) It's true that the CR-V rolled over in the NHTSA test. This is probably due to the relative low vehicle weight and high clearance. I don't know how Honda can "fix" this without a drastic redesign. Anyways, CR-V still received high marks for side-impact protection.
EVERY SUV is more susceptible to roll-overs than sedans. This is one of the risks of driving an SUV. I've driven other SUV's: Mercedes ML320, Ford Explorer, Expedition, and BMW X5, and they all handled like a barge. SUV's should never be driven like a sports car..... or you'll end up upside down.
2) Since you already know what it's like to drive a manual.... do you enjoy it? If not, get the automatic. I recently drove a Honda S2000 (6 speed manual) and hated it (the stick not the car). I've only driven automatics and can't understand why anyone wants the hassle of driving a stick.
3) Yes, you can get a sunroof for ANY car. It's called aftermarket. Just look inside the Yellowpages. You can get a top of the line model for around $1200. You can also get leather thru aftermarket, costs around $1600.
4) Costco has a dealer network. You can't just walk into any dealership, you have to choose one from a prearranged list. If a local dealer is not listed, you'll have to drive to the closet one. Also try www.carsdirect.com. It may be cheaper and they even deliver to your home.
5) The advantages of buying a year old model is that dealers are willing to sell for less. The longer the car sits on the lot, the more money they lose.
The 2001 would have a higher resale value than a 2000 one, even if both were sold on the same date. That's why you shouldn't buy the 2000 one, unless it's much cheaper.
I haven't heard any changes for 2001, so 2000 CR-V won't leave you with an year-old-technology feeling. I believe the 2001 is due to arrive in December.... so, dealers aren't as desperate to deal on 2000's right now.
6) The leather in my Lexus is very easy to clean. I've spilled soda on it, but all I need is a damp rag to clean the mess. On the other hand, I have cloth seats in my CR-V and it's more difficult to clean a soda spill. Scotch-guarding it would help quite a bit. One disadvantage of leather is the requirement of regular application of leather cleaner/conditioner to keep it clean and supple.
I read somewhere the front and rear seats in CRV both fold almost completely flat with the floor. Went to the dealership Sunday, no salesman, but car doors are open. I figured out how to flip the rear seat forward but no way to fold the front seats. The rear seat flips to 90 degree hump , no way to make a bed out of CRV. Am I missing something?
Houston dealers are advertising 2000 CRVs SE 4wd for $20988, EX 4wd for $19999. I assume this is after HOnda rebate or incentive. Is this price good? All are with auto trans. and air.
To make a "bed", you have to remove the head-rests from the front seats. Second, slide the seats all the way forward, then recline it all the way back. After that, recline the back seats back (not fold forward).
There's no rebates or incentives on the CR-V. Only the usual "holdback" of 2%. I believe I've seen the SE advertised at $19,900 in Los Angeles. EX was at $18,900. I would visit several dealerships and see if they can beat the $20,988 ad. If not, then it's a good price for your area.
I like the Mazda Tribute, looks real cute. That 200+hp V6 isn't bad either. But, I'd be very wary of any Ford products. My family has owned several, all of them had major problems by 30K miles. That's why we only buy Honda/Lexus..... reliability. CR-V was rated as the most reliable "SUV" by J.D. Power's. If you decide on the Tribute/Escape, I'd recommend an extended "bumper to bumper" warranty, because you'll need it.
Have you looked at the Honda Passport/Isuzu Rodeo? They have a V6 205hp engine and currently sell for under invoice. Reliability is just average, but they do posses better pick-up and power than the CR-V (test drove the Passport, before I bought the CR-V). If you decide on the Passport, I'd recommend you buy the Isuzu Rodeo instead. They are the same car, but all Isuzu's come with a 10 year/120K mile powertrain warranty, while Honda does not.
I have been considering the Escape/Tribute but am again considering CRV because of soaring gas prices.I have had a number of Hondas over the years and they have been great.The Explorer I have is rated 15-20 mpg and gets 15.So I assume the Escape/Tribute will get 17 or 18 which is not a big difference from what I have now.
Would like to know the gas mileage of the people driving the newest CRV models of 146 horses/5 speed only.
The reason people want a stick is for more power, more control over when the car shifts into gear, stuff like that. Overall they tend to be more efficient gas burners than automatics too. I, for one, dont need to line the oil producers pockets with any more money than theyre already stealing from us.
Im curious if any of you CRV buyers got rid of a truck and have any regrets about not having the truck bed space any more.
Also, funny, but when you read the pros and cons for Edmunds, its says a good highway ride, but noisy at high speeds. Isnt this a contradiction and which is it? Is it a good highway even though its noisy at high speeds, or is this not a consideration for a good highway ride? Then it said lack of power, but goes from 0-60 in 8.9 seconds(5 speed of course), which is faster than the Nissan xterra 4cyl.
I'm not sure whether people are ignoring me or didn't read it the first time.... but, you can purchase gas at www.priceline.com at a BIG savings. Currently, I'm paying $1.36 for 92 octane gas, yesterday, it was $1.92.... so, I saved $.56/gal.
My point is: don't let the gas prices stop you from buying a V6, if that's what you truly want. Don't buy the CR-V and then [non-permissible content removed] about the lack of power and low end torque, especially when MPG difference is miniscual. For example, my 126hp CR-V is currently getting 18MPG (about 99% city). Nothing to write home about. But, I did average 30MPG on a 500 mile trip (99% highway) last year.
I just went to the honda (of course) dealership over the weekend to purchase a 2000 accord exvl with my mother-in-law. Paid 24,100 (at invoice)out the door from Rick Santos at Jacobs Twin in Chicago. Really wanted the 2001 but couldn't wait for delivery - her '90 Camry has just kicked the bucket. Anyway, back to CRV topic. I parked my CRV next to the Tribute (they have a Mazda Dealership next door) and they both looked about the same size. The Trib did seem a bit wider. I did notice that there was less legroom in the Trib and the interior was cheap even for the ES-V6. Don't know why anyone would pay sticker for a vehicle that has known problems. Go figure...
jpoohbear - So you have a CRV and had an Acura with this problem? That's good to know. Because we live in California and because we've brought it in 3 times to have it fixed, the local Honda dealer needs to have Honda fix it now. Thanks for the tip.
And Hondabro, maybe it's just what you're used to, but the manual transmission is so much more powerful than the automatic. We live on a very steep hill and when we test drove the automatic, it could barely make it up the hill. But the manual - when it's in gear, of course ;-), handles the hill flawlessly.
Okay, I'm back (I know you were all waiting) I was up in Canada once again and saw quite a few of the naples gold CR-V's. That color is not restricted to the SE model up there and is very popular.
Hondabro - I can't stand having the car shift itself when I'm not expecting it. Rental cars (like the Ford I was in last week) do this to me all of the time. I also appreciate the manual's extra control over the powerband and the better MPG doesn't hurt. My 99 EX five speed has averaged 25+ mpg over the past year. I drive about 60-70% highway.
Crvse - I also saw a Tribute up close the other week. Looks great from the outside, but nothing special inside.
Mr.bill808 - The Xterra is more powerful, but the vehicle weighs considerably more. There's that much more to lug around. The same applies to the 200 hp Ford Escape and Tribute. Both are estimated to run 0-60 in @9.1 seconds. The CR-V has done 0-60 in 8.6 (Motor Trend). This is partly due to the fact that the Escape/Tribute weighs 500 lbs more than the CR-V. (BTW, the average 5 speed time for the CR-V is 9.0. The average time for the auto is about 10.0)
With regard to the CR-V, the lack of power that many reviews comment on isn't a criticism of it's speed, it's a subjective statement about the way the car will get up and go out of the starting blocks. Since the CR-V uses a small block 4 banger, it does not have a great deal of torque. That is what gives a driver the "feeling" of speed, though they might not actually be going that fast.
As for highway ride and noises, Edmunds is talking about two different things. Highway ride is the amount of abuse occupants will have to put up with from road irregularities (potholes, frost heaves, expansion joints,...) The noise factor refers to engine, wind, and tire noise. The CR-V rides well. It has Honda's double wishbone suspension set-up to keep road harshness properly subdued. However, sound dampening is a bit lacking for a newer design. It isn't so bad that it drives me nuts, but that is one of my pet peeves.
Someone asked about the manual tranny and listed a problem, but I forgot who it was (sorry). I've never had this problem with mine, but my old Mazda did it sometimes. The way around it was to double clutch (put it in neutral and let out the clutch, then engage it again). It's a pain, but it's probably better that restarting the car. Good luck.
Someone else mentioned the dreaded "rollover" word. Yes, the CR-V rolled on it's side during side impact testing. This is a problem, but probably not a big one (since it still earned a five star rating). The thing to understand is that the side impact is a static test, not a moving test. This is not the same scenario as the swerve and roll (oops, there's my exit. Lemme yank the wheel to the right). Like any SUV, the CR-V will roll if you push it. However, there is no evidence to suggest that the CR-V is any more tippy than other SUVs. My advice is be careful, use the higher point of view to get a better look at the road ahead, and leave plenty of room between you and the car in front of you.
Stove1 - The "bed" feature is available on the EX and SE models only. As hondabro described it, you have to fold the seats backwards to form the bed. In addition to that, the rear seats have a level which lifts the seat cushion up to bring it flush with the back of the front seats. It's a neat trick, but not many people use it. The next time you visit a dealer, have them show you the owner's manual. There are instructions in there.
Nobody answered this so I'll take a stab. RT4WD works by activating a clutch pack in the rear differential and transfering power to the rear wheels. If the front wheels turn 2% faster than the rears, oil pressure between a pair of pumps in the rear diff changes, which then causes the clutch pack to engage. The system will remian active as long as there is wheel slip (which in low traction situations, such as driving in snow, could be continuous). The system deactivates when the pressure between the two pumps equalizes, or you apply the brakes.
On slippery surfaces, you may not even notice the system is active (other than the fact that you keep going). I do notice it if I floor the throttle. The front tires squeal for a split second before the rear gets power.
The system performed flawlessly last winter. Driving around in 15+ inches of snow was simply amazing. It went places no car was capable of going (I had to drive around the cars and trucks that people had abandoned when they became stuck).
I just bought a CRV-EX this past weekend in Atlanta and paid $20,150. The sticker was $21,800. And I know a couple of other people here who paid about the same. So if you can get it for under $20, GO FOR IT!
zyz912 - Congrats on your CR-V. The maintenance schedules are for light and extreme conditions. Light conditions require maintenance every 7,500 miles. The 3,500 mile schedule is for extreme conditions. Basically if it ever snow, rains, gets cloudy, foggy, or you're suffering from a bad hair day... You have are living in extreme conditions. Take a look in your owner's manual for the exact descriptions, they're pretty funny.
Beatfarmer - That about sums up the RT4WD thingy. All I would add is that the system is capable of progressively modulating the amount of power sent to the rear wheels. More slippage up front means more power to the rear wheels. It is not capable of sending power from one side to the other. That requires a limited slip differential (or something similar) as can be found on more pricey utes.
Been looking at the CR-V (SE, 4WD) to tow behind our motorhome. According to specs, it is OK to tow with all 4 wheels down. There is a set of requirements which include leaving the key in the "accessory position" while towing. The question is whether the odometer will continue to click miles while towing. We're getting conflicting info from Honda dealers regarding electronic dashes, where miles won't be adding up......others disagree. ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
I know CRV along with Rav4, Escape, Tribute do not have a low range or limited slip but still would like to take it to the beach, find a couple sand dunes, dirt or sandy slopes to climb. No. I didn't try it myself because I havn't bot my dream little suv yet. Sure would like to know what the baby utes are capable of. Specifically , I'd like to know what degree of incline they are capable of climbing ? How does this compare to a 4wd like Cherokee, 4runner..etc.?
Been looking at the CR-V (SE, 4WD) to tow behind our motorhome. According to specs, it is OK to tow with all 4 wheels down. There is a set of requirements which include leaving the key in the "accessory position" while towing. The question is whether the odometer will continue to click miles while towing. We're getting conflicting info from Honda dealers regarding electronic dashes, where miles won't be adding up......others disagree. ANY HELP APPRECIATED.
If I remember correctly, from awhile back, someone mentioned that the odometer does NOT rack up miles while being towed. Interestingly, I've seen a CR-V being towed behind a motorhome, on a recent trip to Vegas.
------------------------ davesha,
The prices you mentioned are below invoice. But, even if you buy at those prices, they still make money due to the 2% holdback (refund from Honda). I would offer them the prices he quoted and be flexible upto $200.
-----------------------
I'd like to reitierate that..... if what's keeping you from buying a V6, 240hp Nissan Pathfinder (for example) is gas prices..... it's no longer an issue! Buy gas from www.priceline.com for as low as 50 cents off per gallon! I don't want people buying the CR-V solely based on gas consumption and bitching about lack of pick-up and power, when they knew this before buying it!
Bought a 2000 Honda CRV in June. First heard clicking noise coming from driver's side door within 4 weeks. Brought in for service 4 times. Have had insulation put in and a new door panel. Mechanic did hear noise but unable to pinpoint what is causing it. No "clicking noise" coming from any other door.
I didn't go into all of the details, but that is a pretty important one. The system isn't just on/off as some people believe.
Stove1-Soft dunes will be the undoing of any of the mini's you mentioned. The lack of LSD more so than low range is a factor here. For true off road capability, the jeep and 4runner will run circles around the lot. But reference that with the Wrangler I saw buried up to the axles on a beach in FLA. If the sand is loose enough, your going to get stuck no matter what you drive.
Degree of incline is where the low range would benefit these vehicles.
Sue4141 - Where is Atlanta did you purchase your cr-v? A member of my family is ready to purchase and we live in the Atlanta area. Would be interested in your salesman. I purchased mine through carorder.com which is no longer in business.
Stove1 - I've done a bit of light off-roading in my CR-V and found it to be more capable than I expected. The caveat being that I didn't have high expectations. Here are a few things to consider (many apply to the other min-utes as well).
1) The CR-V rides on fairly narrow passenger car tires. This is good for economy reasons, but not so good in soft sand, mud, or when "airing down". 2) The CR-V has fully independent suspension. When coming off of a bump, the car's differentials may sink lower than they normally ride. You can bottom out if you go too fast. 3) The CR-V is not a powerhouse in the low RPM band. Avoid situations where you'll need to come to a complete stop and then start again with an obstacle in front of you. Get out of the car, check the obstacle, and if you can make it, use a little momentum to get you over it.
That's the list of the more important "don'ts". Here are some of the CR-V's advantages.
1) Ground clearance. This is more than the 8.1" of clearance between the diffy and the ground. While that is the most important measure, it's not the only one. There are a number of other important measures that get left out in auto comparisons. The CR-V has very good approach and departure angles. It also has high sills along it's sides (almost two inches higher than the Forester). These come into play when you roll over a rock, stump, or berm. The wheelbase combined with the clearance to the middle of the vehicle creates what is called the breakover angle. The CR-V's breakover is okay, but nothing to brag about. Ramp indexes are another measure that will tell you what kind of suspension travel the vehicle has. Since the CR-V is designed to ride like a car, I'd expect these to be below average (the same as most other mini-utes). 2) While the CR-V lacks a low range transfer case, the 5 speed CR-V is geared rather low. In fact, first gear in a CR-V is very comparable to low 1 in the Suzuki GV. I highly recommend the 5 speed for many other reasons as well. 3) The CR-V has a short, low hood that provides a clear view of the road in front of you.
Here are a few "myths" that you may have run across.
Myth: "The CR-V has a puny, weak axle that will snap in off-road situations." The reality is that the axle is thin, but it is also protected by the suspension arms and differential mounts.
Myth: "The open differential bracket lets in dust and rocks that will destroy the diffy." I've never read a report of this happening. Get under there and you'll see that the moving parts are encased as well as being protected by the bracket.
Myth: "The muffler hangs low and is too exposed." The muffler is not too low. The rest of the car is too high. Because of the approach angles, departure angles, and high sills all around you have a clear view of the hanging components. Other SUVs may have a more tight fitting "enclosed" look to the underside, but muffler is still low to the ground. The fact is, so is the rest of the car. With these hanging parts so tightly enclosed, they have nowhere to move if they land on a rock. Since the muffler is mounted on one side of the rear, it is close to the rear tire. Since you should have your wheels on the rocks, this puts the muffler next to the point that is being raised up.
Have fun, go slow and have a friend bring another more capable vehicle to help out if you get stuck.
jpoohbear - I live in Atlanta and bought a CRV LX in July for $17,395. They were running a special at the time but still there prices where far better than anywhere else I looked. Check out Nalley Honda. They are in Union City, about 10 miles south of the city. Talk to Najib Abdul-Haqq. They seemed willing to do pretty much all communication thru email. You can see their inventory and contact them thru their website, nalleycars.com
The price paid in Atlanta at Nalleycars is $500 less than the best price i've found in the Cleveland Area. Anyone in Cleve find a better price than $20,500 on a 2000 CRV-ex. Also, is anyone aware of the possibility of getting a 6 cyl. engine in a CRV? Thanks, i am new to the town hall and really enjoy everyone's comments.
Does any one when the 2001 CRV be coming out. I am thinking to buy a CRV soon, but I am not sure if I should wait till the 2001 model coming out. Also, is there any major changes in 2001 model?
I'm new to the list but have gotten some really good info thus far.
I'm planning to lease a CRV SE or LX in the near future, I've done a lot of looking at them, but haven't driven or talked to anyone at the dealerships yet.
What I'm looking for is advice on the dealerships here in the Columbus area (I will go beyond Greater Columbus if it means a better deal) - like Lancaster or Mansfield.
If anyone has had a great experience with a dealership and/or a sales person that you would recommend I would appreciate any info.
Roush is closest to me and I had good luck w/ them when they serviced my Prelude 5-7 yrs ago when I moved here from Cleveland. But, I have no experience w/ the sales side of it. I work downtown so Hugh White is close to me.
Any advice would be appreciated greatly. Also, if you can tell me what's a good deal for a CRV here in town, that would be awesome.
Michaelo1 - There's no V6 in the CR-V's future. The 2002 CR-V will get a larger 4 banger along with the Civic's new platform. Rumors are that displacement will be 2.4 (like the Accord) or a completely new 2.3.
I have a 2000 and have recently noticed a clicking sound from either the drivers door or in the post holding the seat belt. I don't hear it all the time, just during accleration. Is this what you are talking about? Any idea how to fix it?
Tried to buy a CRV this week with moonroof, dealer will not sell, install aftermarket moonroofs, said quaility unacceptable. That's too bad,even Suzuki has factory moonroof on Grand Vitaras for 2001.
POCONOJOE2 We bought a 2000 CRV EX on Good Friday of this year to tow behind our motorhome. We have traveled over 2500 miles so far, and it tows great.
It does not accumulate mileage, and you only have to start it up and run it for three minutes every 8 hours.
It's a great car even without towing. Great to get around when we get there. Leaving from Texas to go New England states to see color in 4 weeks.
Alan - I got your E-mail, but I'm having trouble with my server and couldn't respond. Sorry, I didn't mean to ignore you. I've updated the E-mail address in my profile.
Anyway, the salesman was Eugene Newman. Not a bad fellow. He was low pressure and didn't act insulted when trading counter offers. Another member of this happy little forum bought from the same guy and had a decent experience. Good luck.
Michaelo1 - I've read comments from a few folks who have purchased (and received) a Ford Escape. You can find them on the Ford/Mazda threads. Dunno of anyone who has the Mazda yet.
Kingrl - Before you head my way, check out the CR-V meet in central Texas. Details can be found in the forum at Hondasuv.com.
Also, anyone in the Maryland/DC area might want to check out this meet.
About to buy a CR-V, probably going to wait another month at least (Oklahoma just lowered prices on car tags but not effective until October) anyone know of any great deals in Oklahoma City, Tulsa, or other areas around there. Will also be in Denver around Christmas and am willing to buy there if I can get a better price. The local guy priced a 2000 EX at 22,000.
I'd like to rent a CRV for 24 hours to see if I like it, but I understand from the smug dealer that no one rents Honda. Any thoughts on renting one of these or ideas on how I could try out a CRV without dealing with a dealer?
Have you checked out the posts on the Mazda Tribute? Reading those certainly raised my eyebrow about the quality of the vehicle (except of course the 200HP V6 which would be the only reason I'd test drive one) and its problems in this first run which many have posted. For reliability, looks, and all around travel, the CR-V is still at the top.
Trinitycargirl - $22K sounds a bit high for an EX. I've read posts here from folks that have gotten SE's for less than that. Does that price include tax, tags, and license fees?
Irvsteroni - Ditto, though IMHO the Tribute does have some nice styling.
Comments
As far as power goes, I am not a speed demon however I am pleased with the CRV acceleration. Maybe a little noisy at times, but I don't have a problem with that.Gas milage is very decent and most important of all, you are buying a Honda which means you are buying one of the most dependable cars on the market today.
I have a CR-V EX with auto trans and love ever inch of it.
Good luck,
"Another Tall Guy"
however-used 547 mile vehicle. Out the
door with an electric sunroof at a net of
$16,800. I think it was a good deal, but
you never know. NOW my next question is
would anyone recommend the extended warranty
of 7 years/75,000 miles bumper to bumper for
$895 and will they negotiate that price?
Again thanks in advance for your insights.
Congrats! Hope you have a looooong trip planned for the holidays, since you'll want to drive it for a long time. Btw, what color is it?
It's hard to gauge whether it was a good deal or not, since you didn't mention the selling price, trade-in value, fee's, etc. But, paying more for the 542-miles-lower, electric sunroof and peace of mind of a brand new car, is well worth the extra $1800. I mean, sunroof alone costs $1200.
I don't think an extended warranty is essential. I would only consider it if it was for 120K miles or more. I just think 75K miles is too short for an extended warranty.... since most problems manifest themselves after over 100K miles. I know someone whose Honda blew a head gasket around 120K miles.... he had to buy a new engine. I would also consider www.warrantygold.com... since their's is a "bumper to bumper" warranty, not just a "powertrain only" warranty.
You can certainly negotiate the price of the warranty with your dealer. But, you can also buy one three years from now, when the original warranty expires. For me, I'm glad I didn't buy one for my Accord, since I ended up selling it after only one year.
1. I've read in Consumer Reports about a side-impact test 2-26-00 by the NHTSA that resulted in a roll-over. Has anyone heard about that? Has Honda acted to correct the problem? Have any of you ever felt that the CR-V was unstable on a turn?
2. I've always driven manual transmission cars, but I wonder whether I should get an automatic this time. I'm in the SF Bay Area, and am in stop-and-go traffic a lot. Is there a reason to get one or the other?
3. Can I really get a sunroof on the CR-V? I love mine on the Civic, and not having one is almost reason enough NOT to get the CR-V!! But if I could . . . wow!
4. Does Costco sell cars everywhere or just in certain regions? I haven't heard about it, but I'll definitely check.
5. What about waiting until the new models come out before I buy? Is it a good idea to buy the 2000's just before the 2001's come out, or is the vehicle technically a year old even if it's never been driven?
6. Does anyone have experience with kids and spills and the cloth seats (EX) vs. the leather seats (EX SE)?
Okay, I'll stop asking questions for now!
1) It's true that the CR-V rolled over in the NHTSA test. This is probably due to the relative low vehicle weight and high clearance. I don't know how Honda can "fix" this without a drastic redesign. Anyways, CR-V still received high marks for side-impact protection.
EVERY SUV is more susceptible to roll-overs than sedans. This is one of the risks of driving an SUV. I've driven other SUV's: Mercedes ML320, Ford Explorer, Expedition, and BMW X5, and they all handled like a barge. SUV's should never be driven like a sports car..... or you'll end up upside down.
2) Since you already know what it's like to drive a manual.... do you enjoy it? If not, get the automatic. I recently drove a Honda S2000 (6 speed manual) and hated it (the stick not the car). I've only driven automatics and can't understand why anyone wants the hassle of driving a stick.
3) Yes, you can get a sunroof for ANY car. It's called aftermarket. Just look inside the Yellowpages. You can get a top of the line model for around $1200. You can also get leather thru aftermarket, costs around $1600.
4) Costco has a dealer network. You can't just walk into any dealership, you have to choose one from a prearranged list. If a local dealer is not listed, you'll have to drive to the closet one. Also try www.carsdirect.com. It may be cheaper and they even deliver to your home.
5) The advantages of buying a year old model is that dealers are willing to sell for less. The longer the car sits on the lot, the more money they lose.
The 2001 would have a higher resale value than a 2000 one, even if both were sold on the same date. That's why you shouldn't buy the 2000 one, unless it's much cheaper.
I haven't heard any changes for 2001, so 2000 CR-V won't leave you with an year-old-technology feeling. I believe the 2001 is due to arrive in December.... so, dealers aren't as desperate to deal on 2000's right now.
6) The leather in my Lexus is very easy to clean. I've spilled soda on it, but all I need is a damp rag to clean the mess. On the other hand, I have cloth seats in my CR-V and it's more difficult to clean a soda spill. Scotch-guarding it would help quite a bit. One disadvantage of leather is the requirement of regular application of leather cleaner/conditioner to keep it clean and supple.
They are also on my radar, but selling at MSRP makes it a bad deal for me. Wish CRV had that V6.
To make a "bed", you have to remove the head-rests from the front seats. Second, slide the seats all the way forward, then recline it all the way back. After that, recline the back seats back (not fold forward).
There's no rebates or incentives on the CR-V. Only the usual "holdback" of 2%. I believe I've seen the SE advertised at $19,900 in Los Angeles. EX was at $18,900. I would visit several dealerships and see if they can beat the $20,988 ad. If not, then it's a good price for your area.
I like the Mazda Tribute, looks real cute. That 200+hp V6 isn't bad either. But, I'd be very wary of any Ford products. My family has owned several, all of them had major problems by 30K miles. That's why we only buy Honda/Lexus..... reliability. CR-V was rated as the most reliable "SUV" by J.D. Power's. If you decide on the Tribute/Escape, I'd recommend an extended "bumper to bumper" warranty, because you'll need it.
Have you looked at the Honda Passport/Isuzu Rodeo? They have a V6 205hp engine and currently sell for under invoice. Reliability is just average, but they do posses better pick-up and power than the CR-V (test drove the Passport, before I bought the CR-V). If you decide on the Passport, I'd recommend you buy the Isuzu Rodeo instead. They are the same car, but all Isuzu's come with a 10 year/120K mile powertrain warranty, while Honda does not.
again considering CRV because of soaring gas prices.I have had a number of Hondas over the years and they have been great.The Explorer I have is rated 15-20 mpg and gets 15.So I assume
the Escape/Tribute will get 17 or 18 which is not
a big difference from what I have now.
The reason people want a stick is for more power, more control over when the car shifts into gear, stuff like that. Overall they tend to be more efficient gas burners than automatics too. I, for one, dont need to line the oil producers pockets with any more money than theyre already stealing from us.
Im curious if any of you CRV buyers got rid of a truck and have any regrets about not having the truck bed space any more.
Also, funny, but when you read the pros and cons for Edmunds, its says a good highway ride, but noisy at high speeds. Isnt this a contradiction and which is it? Is it a good highway even though its noisy at high speeds, or is this not a consideration for a good highway ride? Then it said lack of power, but goes from 0-60 in 8.9 seconds(5 speed of course), which is faster than the Nissan xterra 4cyl.
My point is: don't let the gas prices stop you from buying a V6, if that's what you truly want. Don't buy the CR-V and then [non-permissible content removed] about the lack of power and low end torque, especially when MPG difference is miniscual. For example, my 126hp CR-V is currently getting 18MPG (about 99% city). Nothing to write home about. But, I did average 30MPG on a 500 mile trip (99% highway) last year.
And Hondabro, maybe it's just what you're used to, but the manual transmission is so much more powerful than the automatic. We live on a very steep hill and when we test drove the automatic, it could barely make it up the hill. But the manual - when it's in gear, of course ;-), handles the hill flawlessly.
Hondabro - I can't stand having the car shift itself when I'm not expecting it. Rental cars (like the Ford I was in last week) do this to me all of the time. I also appreciate the manual's extra control over the powerband and the better MPG doesn't hurt. My 99 EX five speed has averaged 25+ mpg over the past year. I drive about 60-70% highway.
Crvse - I also saw a Tribute up close the other week. Looks great from the outside, but nothing special inside.
Mr.bill808 - The Xterra is more powerful, but the vehicle weighs considerably more. There's that much more to lug around. The same applies to the 200 hp Ford Escape and Tribute. Both are estimated to run 0-60 in @9.1 seconds. The CR-V has done 0-60 in 8.6 (Motor Trend). This is partly due to the fact that the Escape/Tribute weighs 500 lbs more than the CR-V. (BTW, the average 5 speed time for the CR-V is 9.0. The average time for the auto is about 10.0)
With regard to the CR-V, the lack of power that many reviews comment on isn't a criticism of it's speed, it's a subjective statement about the way the car will get up and go out of the starting blocks. Since the CR-V uses a small block 4 banger, it does not have a great deal of torque. That is what gives a driver the "feeling" of speed, though they might not actually be going that fast.
As for highway ride and noises, Edmunds is talking about two different things. Highway ride is the amount of abuse occupants will have to put up with from road irregularities (potholes, frost heaves, expansion joints,...) The noise factor refers to engine, wind, and tire noise. The CR-V rides well. It has Honda's double wishbone suspension set-up to keep road harshness properly subdued. However, sound dampening is a bit lacking for a newer design. It isn't so bad that it drives me nuts, but that is one of my pet peeves.
Someone asked about the manual tranny and listed a problem, but I forgot who it was (sorry). I've never had this problem with mine, but my old Mazda did it sometimes. The way around it was to double clutch (put it in neutral and let out the clutch, then engage it again). It's a pain, but it's probably better that restarting the car. Good luck.
Someone else mentioned the dreaded "rollover" word. Yes, the CR-V rolled on it's side during side impact testing. This is a problem, but probably not a big one (since it still earned a five star rating). The thing to understand is that the side impact is a static test, not a moving test. This is not the same scenario as the swerve and roll (oops, there's my exit. Lemme yank the wheel to the right). Like any SUV, the CR-V will roll if you push it. However, there is no evidence to suggest that the CR-V is any more tippy than other SUVs. My advice is be careful, use the higher point of view to get a better look at the road ahead, and leave plenty of room between you and the car in front of you.
Stove1 - The "bed" feature is available on the EX and SE models only. As hondabro described it, you have to fold the seats backwards to form the bed. In addition to that, the rear seats have a level which lifts the seat cushion up to bring it flush with the back of the front seats. It's a neat trick, but not many people use it. The next time you visit a dealer, have them show you the owner's manual. There are instructions in there.
On slippery surfaces, you may not even notice the system is active (other than the fact that you keep going). I do notice it if I floor the throttle. The front tires squeal for a split second before the rear gets power.
The system performed flawlessly last winter. Driving around in 15+ inches of snow was simply amazing. It went places no car was capable of going (I had to drive around the cars and trucks that people had abandoned when they became stuck).
by the way I bought the CRV EX at 250 over invoice two weeks ago ( I live west Chicago). Thanks for all the advices I got!
Beatfarmer - That about sums up the RT4WD thingy. All I would add is that the system is capable of progressively modulating the amount of power sent to the rear wheels. More slippage up front means more power to the rear wheels. It is not capable of sending power from one side to the other. That requires a limited slip differential (or something similar) as can be found on more pricey utes.
No. I didn't try it myself because I havn't bot my dream little suv yet. Sure would like to know what the baby utes are capable of. Specifically , I'd like to know what degree of incline they are capable of climbing ? How does this compare to a 4wd like Cherokee, 4runner..etc.?
If I remember correctly, from awhile back, someone mentioned that the odometer does NOT rack up miles while being towed. Interestingly, I've seen a CR-V being towed behind a motorhome, on a recent trip to Vegas.
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davesha,
The prices you mentioned are below invoice. But, even if you buy at those prices, they still make money due to the 2% holdback (refund from Honda). I would offer them the prices he quoted and be flexible upto $200.
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I'd like to reitierate that..... if what's keeping you from buying a V6, 240hp Nissan Pathfinder (for example) is gas prices..... it's no longer an issue! Buy gas from www.priceline.com for as low as 50 cents off per gallon! I don't want people buying the CR-V solely based on gas consumption and bitching about lack of pick-up and power, when they knew this before buying it!
Stove1-Soft dunes will be the undoing of any of the mini's you mentioned. The lack of LSD more so than low range is a factor here. For true off road capability, the jeep and 4runner will run circles around the lot. But reference that with the Wrangler I saw buried up to the axles on a beach in FLA. If the sand is loose enough, your going to get stuck no matter what you drive.
Degree of incline is where the low range would benefit these vehicles.
1) The CR-V rides on fairly narrow passenger car tires. This is good for economy reasons, but not so good in soft sand, mud, or when "airing down".
2) The CR-V has fully independent suspension. When coming off of a bump, the car's differentials may sink lower than they normally ride. You can bottom out if you go too fast.
3) The CR-V is not a powerhouse in the low RPM band. Avoid situations where you'll need to come to a complete stop and then start again with an obstacle in front of you. Get out of the car, check the obstacle, and if you can make it, use a little momentum to get you over it.
That's the list of the more important "don'ts". Here are some of the CR-V's advantages.
1) Ground clearance. This is more than the 8.1" of clearance between the diffy and the ground. While that is the most important measure, it's not the only one. There are a number of other important measures that get left out in auto comparisons. The CR-V has very good approach and departure angles. It also has high sills along it's sides (almost two inches higher than the Forester). These come into play when you roll over a rock, stump, or berm. The wheelbase combined with the clearance to the middle of the vehicle creates what is called the breakover angle. The CR-V's breakover is okay, but nothing to brag about. Ramp indexes are another measure that will tell you what kind of suspension travel the vehicle has. Since the CR-V is designed to ride like a car, I'd expect these to be below average (the same as most other mini-utes).
2) While the CR-V lacks a low range transfer case, the 5 speed CR-V is geared rather low. In fact, first gear in a CR-V is very comparable to low 1 in the Suzuki GV. I highly recommend the 5 speed for many other reasons as well.
3) The CR-V has a short, low hood that provides a clear view of the road in front of you.
Here are a few "myths" that you may have run across.
Myth: "The CR-V has a puny, weak axle that will snap in off-road situations." The reality is that the axle is thin, but it is also protected by the suspension arms and differential mounts.
Myth: "The open differential bracket lets in dust and rocks that will destroy the diffy." I've never read a report of this happening. Get under there and you'll see that the moving parts are encased as well as being protected by the bracket.
Myth: "The muffler hangs low and is too exposed." The muffler is not too low. The rest of the car is too high. Because of the approach angles, departure angles, and high sills all around you have a clear view of the hanging components. Other SUVs may have a more tight fitting "enclosed" look to the underside, but muffler is still low to the ground. The fact is, so is the rest of the car. With these hanging parts so tightly enclosed, they have nowhere to move if they land on a rock. Since the muffler is mounted on one side of the rear, it is close to the rear tire. Since you should have your wheels on the rocks, this puts the muffler next to the point that is being raised up.
Have fun, go slow and have a friend bring another more capable vehicle to help out if you get stuck.
Does any one when the 2001 CRV be coming out. I am thinking to buy a CRV soon, but I am not sure if I should wait till the 2001 model coming out. Also, is there any major changes in 2001 model?
Thanks,
--CRV buyer
I'm planning to lease a CRV SE or LX in the near future, I've done a lot of looking at them, but haven't driven or talked to anyone at the dealerships yet.
What I'm looking for is advice on the dealerships here in the Columbus area (I will go beyond Greater Columbus if it means a better deal) - like Lancaster or Mansfield.
If anyone has had a great experience with a dealership and/or a sales person that you would recommend I would appreciate any info.
Roush is closest to me and I had good luck w/ them when they serviced my Prelude 5-7 yrs ago when I moved here from Cleveland. But, I have no experience w/ the sales side of it. I work downtown so Hugh White is close to me.
Any advice would be appreciated greatly. Also, if you can tell me what's a good deal for a CRV here in town, that would be awesome.
Thanks!
http://www.edmunds.com/whatsnew2001/honda.html
Michaelo1 - There's no V6 in the CR-V's future. The 2002 CR-V will get a larger 4 banger along with the Civic's new platform. Rumors are that displacement will be 2.4 (like the Accord) or a completely new 2.3.
It does not accumulate mileage, and you only have to start it up and run it for three minutes every 8 hours.
It's a great car even without towing. Great to get around when we get there. Leaving from Texas to go New England states to see color in 4 weeks.
Later,
rlk
Anyway, the salesman was Eugene Newman. Not a bad fellow. He was low pressure and didn't act insulted when trading counter offers. Another member of this happy little forum bought from the same guy and had a decent experience. Good luck.
Kingrl - Before you head my way, check out the CR-V meet in central Texas. Details can be found in the forum at Hondasuv.com.
Also, anyone in the Maryland/DC area might want to check out this meet.
http://www.alsnscale.com/CRVMEET/crvmeet.htm
Irvsteroni - Ditto, though IMHO the Tribute does have some nice styling.