Could be. Right now, the spare pokes out about 2-3 inches beyond the rear bumper. In the grand scheme of things, the difference isn't going to be significant.
I will say that I'm hoping the CR-V won't grow anymore. The trend has been for each vehicle to get bigger and bigger with each remodel. So this news is somewhat encouraging.
If you had a post removed, you'd receive a note from a host. There may have been a server glitch, although no one else has mentioned any problems posting recently.
Dunno if Honda has their own PL "brand"...I've had to add a half pint in 20K miles: I use 50-50 distilled water and any top brand coolant that is DexCool based, eg Havoline, et al. From my reading the DexCool based stuff, sorta reddish, is the best for newer motors. BMW, GM, et al rec'd it as only approved prod., for use in their stuff.
On a diff note and not trying to start an arm wrestle, but our CR-V is Not the trick on our Very steep, snow covered mtn road. I have "Plus-ish1" aftermkt wheels and tires:
16" and a tad wider, but near ident. rolling dia.:
they have helped a bit compared to the stock wheelbarrow sized tires, but it's a handful.
On a diff note and not trying to start an arm wrestle, but our CR-V is Not the trick on our Very steep, snow covered mtn road. I have "Plus-ish1" aftermkt wheels and tires:
16" and a tad wider, but near ident. rolling dia.:
they have helped a bit compared to the stock wheelbarrow sized tires, but it's a handful.
I realize that dedicated snows are the way to go.
Narrower tires work better in snow and ice then do wide tires.
I think that taking any vehicle out for more than 20 miles puts the dealer (and I am not a dealer, or associated with the automotive industry) in a precarious position. Unless, the dealer used a demo car for such a drive..
But I would think that most major issues can be detected within the first 5-10 miles of driving the vehicle, not sure that another 40-50 miles is going to show any additional problems.
HOWEVER, I hear you in that after there is a problem (sometimes within a few weeks of ownership) the dealer should not act like it is your problem either. That is bad business, plain and simple. If a vehicle is that new and has problems, I would expect said dealer to bend over backwards to make you happy so that you continue to do business with him (maintenance, future purchases).
I had a bad experience with a Nissan dealer a few years ago after purchase, and I then found another local dealer with a good service record and have been taking my car there for almost three years now. He gets my money, not the other dealer
I have an o5 with the xfm radio installed. the dealer said its all wired up ready to go.what would be a fair price for the dealer to activate the service? I would figure about 100 to 150 dollars? anybody know?
Racoon, thanks...I realize that and knew as soon as I typed that I would hear about it,lol!
The prob is we have to deal with a 4 mile very steep climb,(or descent), but 95% of the driving around western NC is on dry or barely snow covered roads. It's like having a diesel powered riding mower for a 40X60' bit of lawn...snows are really only needed 20-30 days/yr and Only to get "Up & Down", not once one is "down".
Actually, I think the GY Eagle GTs, (jes'< than Plus1), I went to last summer, do much better in snow compared to the nearly bald at 15K orig Bridgestone wheelbarrow tires, they replaced... Nothing beats a dedicated snow tire, which we have on the X5 mounted on an oem smaller and narrower rim: 235-65/17s in winter and the orig 255-55/18s in summer. The X's AWD,(old pre-XDrive version), is not bulletproof, but the Michey Alpins are and the Hill Descent feature is the best thing BMW ripped from LR. NEway, it is what it is, but even with dedicated snows, I don't think the CR-V would be any billygoat on these steep, snowy slopes. My 2Cts. BR,md
Anyone know how much weight the hitch can handle when putting a hitch bike rack on it? Can't find the maximun tongue weight anywhere. And what does anyone thing about using a 1 1/4 to 2" adapter? Thanks.
Mind me asking where you obtained that info? I couldn't find it on the honda site.
As for xm activation, it shouldn't cost your dealer any money. At least it didn't when I had it on my 04 accord ex. You do it yourself, leave it on for about an hour or something. No way the dealer can charge you 150 for that.
towing and hitch information can be found in the owners manual. Though I'm guessing the mighty Racoon is working from memory. Actually, I think the 1gen model's tongue weight is 110 lbs, but I'd better check my manual as his memory is usually better than mine on this subject.
Just a heads up if you have a Sam's Club near you, I just bought from my local store a set of rubber mats that fit my CR-V perfectly! They are a dark grey, (might have been tan ones too), the fronts fit just perfect, but the back is the best part. It is one wide piece, (not 2 small pieces), that fit the back seat floor area of my 2005 perfect. About a 1/2 inch of space on either side. They look like custom made mats but only cost $15.00 for the set!!!
Can you mention the brand name? It might be hit-and-miss for the Sam's members here in TH because I know that the product selection can vary from club to club, even within the same metro area. But thanks for the heads-up anyway.
Sorry, I can't give the brand name because I threw out the cardboard holder it came with and the trashman has already taken it away. Look for the one with the long back seat piece.
I recently bought a Certified Used 2001 Honda CRV EX. I noticed that there is vibration whenever the car is in "D" and I am stepping on the brake. Is this normal? I can feel the vibration on the steering wheel. However, the vibration goes away when the car is moving. Thank you very much in advance for your reply.
No, not the rotor warp, as isellhondas suggests. You're talking about the engine vibration when stopped, like at a stoplight, correct? Unfortunately, that 2001 CR-V is a 2.0L 4-cyl. - one year before Honda added the balance shafts and the 2.4L engine. I've got a '99 with the same drivetrain. Assuming that the engine runs fine and doesn't need a tune-up or the valves adjusted (very important with this engine), there's not much to be done about that; except maybe adjusting the idle speed slightly higher or lower to find a smoother idle point.
I love my CR-V, and I've found a lot of great information here, and at www.hondasuv.com. Read up on the valve adjustment and the many costly problems experienced by folks that don't adjust them every 15-30k miles. Really makes a big difference in the power and smoothness, as well as fuel economy.
<< Read up on the valve adjustment and the many costly problems experienced by folks that don't adjust them every 15-30k miles. Really makes a big difference in the power and smoothness, as well as fuel economy. >>
I've got a '99 CRV with 104K miles, owner's manual says "check valve clearance, adjust only if noisy" only at 105K miles. Which I will have done when I take it in for the timing belt change. The engine in my CRV has run flawless since day one and I've never had the valves looked at. And at least on this forum, I believe no one's reported problems caused by not having the vavles looked at.
And at least on this forum, I believe no one's reported problems caused by not having the vavles looked at.
There have been quite a few posts in this message board, and in the Honda CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions forum here on Edmunds.com concerning valve tightening problems with the 1st Gen CR-V engines.
I have mine adjusted every 30,000 miles on my '99 CR-V.
After I started seeing posts about valve adjustments, I had my mechanic take a look at mine (1999 CR-V). That was at about 85K miles, and they found no problems. More than a year later, I have about 105K miles on it. Still no problems.
Essentially, it doesn't hurt to have the valves checked every 30K miles. But I am skeptical that they will need adjusting so frequently.
Sorry. Mine is a 5MT, so I have no personal experience with this. I do not recall this being an issue with the 1st gen models. But everybody's idea of abnormal vibration is different.
<< There have been quite a few posts in this message board, and in the Honda CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions forum here on Edmunds.com concerning valve tightening problems with the 1st Gen CR-V engines. >>
I did a search and I stand corrected, there were quite a few posts from different members who had burnt valves requiring expensive repairs. I must be one of the lucky ones.
Now you got me nervous. Looks like I'll schedule the timing belt change and valve adjustment sooner than I planned.
Essentially, it doesn't hurt to have the valves checked every 30K miles. But I am skeptical that they will need adjusting so frequently.
I don't have nearly as many miles on my '99 CR-V as Varmint does on his; mine just turned 67,000 miles. I had the valves checked at 30,000 miles and again at 60,000 miles. Both times I was told there was at least one valve that was "off" and that they had been adjusted to spec.
Mikefm58 - a last thought about the valves. You are quite correct that the Owner's Manual stating to adjust "when noisy" or at 105k miles. With all due respect to the folks at Honda, this can lead to disaster. This is a good strategy for valves that get "looser" over time, but it turns out with this engine, the valves get "tighter". And tighter valves don't make noise - they just stay open a little too long, get too hot and burn. Ultimately, the cost is a complete new head with valves.
My theory is that, when Honda added the extra 20Hp to the '99-'01 models by adding more top-end power, one of the things needed to do this is stronger valve springs. The stronger springs end up pulling the steel valve seats into the aluminum head, making the valve clearances shrink. Anyone heard any other good theory?
No one does publicly, although I'm sure someone inside Honda does. Anything you see that isn't an official Honda announcement is just rumors and speculation.
In addition to what Racoon wrote... expect very little.
2006 will be the last year for the CR-V. Honda probably will not change more that just colors, maybe a newly designed floor mat, very minor stuff like that. There's no incentive to make major changes when the whole vehicle will be redesigned from the ground up in 2007.
Varmint, you seem to have a lot of very specific information about the CR-V. Just curious as to where you get it. Is it available to the general public? Thanks
I have been graced with "insider information" only twice. And it's been very minor stuff. Everything else is the result of a curious mind and 6 years of learning where to look.
Is there something specific you wanted to know more about?
Yes, I was wondering where you heard/read about the redesign or discontinuance of the CR-V in 2007 and also how you know about the different engines for the different countries. I have been to the HMC home page (it's been a while though)and have not seen that info (maybe I didn't look in the right place or ask the right question). I also read two different newspapers regularly and one other sporadically and keep an eye out for Honda news in those. I don't read automotive magazines though. Is that where you learn about this stuff? Or is it mostly from the Internet? I appreciate the wealth of information that you share here and don't want to steal your thunder but would like to be a little more in the know about the specifics on the CR-V myself without having to wait for the right question to be asked. Thanks.
I was wondering where you heard/read about the redesign or discontinuance of the CR-V in 2007
Honda is (usually) on a 5 year cycle for model redesign. The last redesign of the CR-V was for the 2002 mode year, hence Varmint's assumption that Honda will redesign the CR-V for the 2007 model year
how you know about the different engines for the different countries. I have been to the HMC home page (it's been a while though)and have not seen that info (maybe I didn't look in the right place or ask the right question).
Each country has their own Honda website. The US is http://automobiles.honda.com and shows details of the US models. As a few examples...
I just purchased a 2005 Cr-V and have ordered a Blue-Ox base plate to tow it. Instructions for installation appear straightforward and complete, but if anyone has experienced this task I would appreciate advice.
Thirdof4 - Not much I can add to Racoon's response. I read several forums. There are members from all over the world. We compare notes.
Juice - That 10-seater model was actually built to take advantage of a loop-hole in local tax laws. (Owners would not have to pay a luxury tax.) When the government closed the loop-hole, Honda stopped production.
24K miles. Just had front end alignment done; top qual shop said it was the worst toe prob. he had seen in awhile. Car came that way, in his opin. It crept up on us, and inside front rt tire is pretty chewed. Never off road on potholed to death. Both front tires show considerable wear,too. These current tires, GY Eagle GTs in not quite Plus1 size, have 10K miles on them.
The OEM tires they replaced were near bald in 14K. I had taken CR-V in to Stlr at 12K for what I described as a soft pull to right and exc. tire wear on oems; Stlr said things were "perfect" and blamed tire wear on "the curvy roads we have in western NC", (his quote,lol!) 2 other cars I do even more "vigorous driving" with are unaffected by same "conditions".
Also, front brake wear sensor is singing, so back in to priv. garage for new pads, rotor trim, etc. on Friday. Other than M'cycles, I've never had brake pads gone in 24k. We live on a Mtn, but the X5 has 38K and the Vette has 18K with plenty of pad left on both. I suspect the CR-V's longish stopping distance is partly a function of pad swept area in add. to the wheelbarrow like oem tires.
On another note, you might check the batt. hold down bracket that goes across top of batt to front end frame: the screw/bolt that attaches to front nose bracket has disappeard; thus, batt was bouncing around a bit. Replaced w/nylok type.
Oil consumption is now a quartish+ every thou miles. My two Honda M'cyles barely use a drop, the X a bit and the Vette, zippo.
I realize I've ragged on this car here, before; it remains my least fave and am sruprised by middling quality,imo. My 2Cts. BR, md
My '99 CR-V 5 speed has just shy of 70,000 miles on the original brakes. The last oil change the dealer told me I should start thinking about having the brakes done. My CR-V came with BFG's, not the Duelers. They lasted nearly 50,000 miles with no odd wear patterns. About 1/2 of the CR-Vs life has been in Indiana, the rest in western NY.
Nice to hear that I am not the only one with a 2nd gen. CR-V with the horrible alignment issues and premature brake wear in the front. We ditched the OEM tires after 24K miles, as they were cupping pretty and needed replacement. The alignment was very far out of whack as well, and I attribute at least some of the wear to that. About 5K miles later the front brake pads were replaced and rotors machined. My wife is the primary driver and I would never expect to see the need for new pads @ just shy of 30K.
Fun and games... hopefully now that the alignment is correct, new tires and pads in place etc., these items won't be an issue for some time to come.
It is really easy. I've done it for road trips. The trick is knowing that the seats are spring loaded. I think I had a friend help me put them back in.
"My only major complaint with the CR-V was that it was noisy on the highway. This was a combination of wind and engine noise and was most noticeable on the Interstates."
"The ride is smooth and well-controlled for a 4x4, engine noise is well-contained and road noise is minimal."
"considerable highway noise generated by tires,etc.,huge wheel wells and very slim insulation"
"road noise is too much for many drivers"
"The 2004 Honda CR V has reduced engine idle vibration. Also fluid-filled engine mount is used at the engine's inertial-axis mounting point making this car very quiet on the road."
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I will say that I'm hoping the CR-V won't grow anymore. The trend has been for each vehicle to get bigger and bigger with each remodel. So this news is somewhat encouraging.
Pilot is pretty big so they'd have a big gap if the CR-V got smaller. I think the size is fine, in fact it's probably the biggest selling point.
-juice
Is this a policy that I unknowingly violated?
Or did I forget to hit the "GO" button?
Anyway, my answer to your question is that I used Prestone for aluminum engines.
My previous response included a comment about Honda's caution to use only their antifreeze brand.
Let's see if this message gets past the censors.
Steve, Host
Probably - there is no record of a recent deletion.
tidester, host
On a diff note and not trying to start an arm wrestle, but our CR-V is Not the trick on our Very steep, snow covered mtn road. I have "Plus-ish1" aftermkt wheels and tires:
16" and a tad wider, but near ident. rolling dia.:
they have helped a bit compared to the stock wheelbarrow sized tires, but it's a handful.
I realize that dedicated snows are the way to go.
BR,md
16" and a tad wider, but near ident. rolling dia.:
they have helped a bit compared to the stock wheelbarrow sized tires, but it's a handful.
I realize that dedicated snows are the way to go.
Narrower tires work better in snow and ice then do wide tires.
JM2C
But I would think that most major issues can be detected within the first 5-10 miles of driving the vehicle, not sure that another 40-50 miles is going to show any additional problems.
HOWEVER, I hear you in that after there is a problem (sometimes within a few weeks of ownership) the dealer should not act like it is your problem either. That is bad business, plain and simple. If a vehicle is that new and has problems, I would expect said dealer to bend over backwards to make you happy so that you continue to do business with him (maintenance, future purchases).
I had a bad experience with a Nissan dealer a few years ago after purchase, and I then found another local dealer with a good service record and have been taking my car there for almost three years now. He gets my money, not the other dealer
Deep snow? Sure. Not so sure about packed snow or ice, though. In those conditions, tire width probably doesn't make a significant difference.
-juice
The prob is we have to deal with a 4 mile very steep climb,(or descent), but 95% of the driving around western NC is on dry or barely snow covered roads. It's like having a diesel powered riding mower for a 40X60' bit of lawn...snows are really only needed 20-30 days/yr and Only to get "Up & Down", not once one is "down".
Actually, I think the GY Eagle GTs, (jes'< than Plus1), I went to last summer, do much better in snow compared to the nearly bald at 15K orig Bridgestone wheelbarrow tires, they replaced... Nothing beats a dedicated snow tire, which we have on the X5 mounted on an oem smaller and narrower rim: 235-65/17s in winter and the orig 255-55/18s in summer. The X's AWD,(old pre-XDrive version), is not bulletproof, but the Michey Alpins are and the Hill Descent feature is the best thing BMW ripped from LR. NEway, it is what it is, but even with dedicated snows, I don't think the CR-V would be any billygoat on these steep, snowy slopes. My 2Cts. BR,md
Anyone know how much weight the hitch can handle when putting a hitch bike rack on it? Can't find the maximun tongue weight anywhere. And what does anyone thing about using a 1 1/4 to 2" adapter? Thanks.
Mind me asking where you obtained that info? I couldn't find it on the honda site.
As for xm activation, it shouldn't cost your dealer any money. At least it didn't when I had it on my 04 accord ex. You do it yourself, leave it on for about an hour or something. No way the dealer can charge you 150 for that.
Kimodo
Still, that's probably enough for 3-4 bikes.
-juice
link
Steve, Host
Someone probably didn't torque the wheel lugs.
I love my CR-V, and I've found a lot of great information here, and at www.hondasuv.com. Read up on the valve adjustment and the many costly problems experienced by folks that don't adjust them every 15-30k miles. Really makes a big difference in the power and smoothness, as well as fuel economy.
I've got a '99 CRV with 104K miles, owner's manual says "check valve clearance, adjust only if noisy" only at 105K miles. Which I will have done when I take it in for the timing belt change. The engine in my CRV has run flawless since day one and I've never had the valves looked at. And at least on this forum, I believe no one's reported problems caused by not having the vavles looked at.
There have been quite a few posts in this message board, and in the Honda CR-V Owners: Problems & Solutions forum here on Edmunds.com concerning valve tightening problems with the 1st Gen CR-V engines.
I have mine adjusted every 30,000 miles on my '99 CR-V.
Essentially, it doesn't hurt to have the valves checked every 30K miles. But I am skeptical that they will need adjusting so frequently.
I did a search and I stand corrected, there were quite a few posts from different members who had burnt valves requiring expensive repairs. I must be one of the lucky ones.
Now you got me nervous. Looks like I'll schedule the timing belt change and valve adjustment sooner than I planned.
I don't have nearly as many miles on my '99 CR-V as Varmint does on his; mine just turned 67,000 miles. I had the valves checked at 30,000 miles and again at 60,000 miles. Both times I was told there was at least one valve that was "off" and that they had been adjusted to spec.
My theory is that, when Honda added the extra 20Hp to the '99-'01 models by adding more top-end power, one of the things needed to do this is stronger valve springs. The stronger springs end up pulling the steel valve seats into the aluminum head, making the valve clearances shrink. Anyone heard any other good theory?
JM2C
2006 will be the last year for the CR-V. Honda probably will not change more that just colors, maybe a newly designed floor mat, very minor stuff like that. There's no incentive to make major changes when the whole vehicle will be redesigned from the ground up in 2007.
Thanks
Is there something specific you wanted to know more about?
Honda is (usually) on a 5 year cycle for model redesign. The last redesign of the CR-V was for the 2002 mode year, hence Varmint's assumption that Honda will redesign the CR-V for the 2007 model year
how you know about the different engines for the different countries. I have been to the HMC home page (it's been a while though)and have not seen that info (maybe I didn't look in the right place or ask the right question).
Each country has their own Honda website. The US is http://automobiles.honda.com and shows details of the US models. As a few examples...
Honda Canada is: http://www.honda.ca
Honda UK is: http://www.honda.co.uk
Honda Australia is: http://www.honda.com.au
Each country has slightly different variations of the vehicles Honda offers for sale.
-juice
Juice - That 10-seater model was actually built to take advantage of a loop-hole in local tax laws. (Owners would not have to pay a luxury tax.) When the government closed the loop-hole, Honda stopped production.
Just had front end alignment done; top qual shop said it was the worst toe prob. he had seen in awhile. Car came that way, in his opin. It crept up on us, and inside front rt tire is pretty chewed. Never off road on potholed to death. Both front tires show considerable wear,too. These current tires, GY Eagle GTs in not quite Plus1 size, have 10K miles on them.
The OEM tires they replaced were near bald in 14K. I had taken CR-V in to Stlr at 12K for what I described as a soft pull to right and exc. tire wear on oems; Stlr said things were "perfect" and blamed tire wear on "the curvy roads we have in western NC", (his quote,lol!) 2 other cars I do even more "vigorous driving" with are unaffected by same "conditions".
Also, front brake wear sensor is singing, so back in to priv. garage for new pads, rotor trim, etc. on Friday. Other than M'cycles, I've never had brake pads gone in 24k. We live on a Mtn, but the X5 has 38K and the Vette has 18K with plenty of pad left on both. I suspect the CR-V's longish stopping distance is partly a function of pad swept area in add. to the wheelbarrow like oem tires.
On another note, you might check the batt. hold down bracket that goes across top of batt to front end frame: the screw/bolt that attaches to front nose bracket has disappeard; thus, batt was bouncing around a bit. Replaced w/nylok type.
Oil consumption is now a quartish+ every thou miles.
My two Honda M'cyles barely use a drop, the X a bit and the Vette, zippo.
I realize I've ragged on this car here, before;
it remains my least fave and am sruprised by middling quality,imo. My 2Cts.
BR, md
JM2C
Fun and games... hopefully now that the alignment is correct, new tires and pads in place etc., these items won't be an issue for some time to come.
My 1 cent.
See my posting #13055, 17 Jul 2004 2:37 pm on this forum
and followups.
Good Luck
my $600 worth!
(sorry about all the editing!)
"My only major complaint with the CR-V was that it was noisy on the highway. This was a combination of wind and engine noise and was most noticeable on the Interstates."
"The ride is smooth and well-controlled for a 4x4, engine noise is well-contained and road noise is minimal."
"considerable highway noise generated by tires,etc.,huge wheel wells and very slim insulation"
"road noise is too much for many drivers"
"The 2004 Honda CR V has reduced engine idle vibration. Also fluid-filled engine mount is used at the engine's inertial-axis mounting point making this car very quiet on the road."
This is pretty ridiculously inconsistent.