I think it depends on whether you get the four or the six. I think you would have to say that you want a 91 or newer YJ, if you get the six, because that's when they got the fuel injection. You don't want a carburated engine for wheelin'. Get that Jeep going up or down a real steep hill, and they are hard to keep running with a carburator.
The manifold problem was on the 97 TJs and maybe the 98s with the 4.0 engines. Not sure if the four banger manifolds had the same design flaw or not. Anyone know??? The problem was that they cracked.
According to the article in Trey's link, the Peugeot tranny was only used with the six cylinder engines for the years 87-89. Now that you have read that article, you know the answer to your question: the Peugeot tranny that was so poor was a manual.
Jim, I am not anywhere close to being an authority on YJs (Or TJs for that matter), but a YJ with a decent lift and tires on it is a VERY capable trail rig. I wheel with YJs all the time, and they go through some tough territory.
They only come up short when compared stock to stock vs the TJs.
You ain't gonna care one bit about ride quality, since you will use the Jeep for a trail rig only, but on the highway, a TJ rides about 10 times smoother than a YJ.
YJ needs better ground clearance and more flex (not just a lift) to match a standard TJ.
Lift blocks with longer 'U' bolts and shackles will lift a vehicle, but will do nothing to provide more flex.
If you have the required fabrication equipment and skills, a SOA conversion is cheaper than a commercial lift kit. There's a bit more to it than just bolting the axles under the springs though.
There many YJ lift kits out there, some good, some bad. I've only heard good things about ARB's Old Man Emu setup. (I use an OME kit on my TJ).
When making an appreciable change to the driveshaft angle, a CV joint (actually a double Cardan joint) is not just desirable, but essential. It's usually fitted to an on road Jeep to eliminate vibration. You won't feel the vibration driving slowly off road, but you will notice when a 'U' joint snaps, or the tail housing breaks!
The YJ can be made into a very capable off roader, but you'll have to modify it to a greater extent than you would a TJ to achieve similar results.
However, all of that being said and done, a YJ is definitely better than no J!
Well, thought I'd let you know about my pup. She's undergoing surgery today. She wasn't pregnant, but she had some tumors. They may or may not be benign. She is also being fixed to help reduce the chance of tumors. Prognosis is good so far. I'll know more later today.
Paul - Good luck with your pup - I hope she pulls through OK. Getting fixed is a good idea, really. I've always fixed my male dogs since I'm not planning on breeding. I did that for a time with horses, and quickly came to the conclusion that it wasn't worth all the extra work etc.
The exhaust manifold affected some '98s. They didn't do a recall on them, but many (including mine) cracked and it is a hefty repair!
Well, I couldn't find the ratio number on the pumpkin last night. Maybe too dirty, or too dark. I decided that for my TJ SE, I'm going to go with the BFG 30x9.5 AT KO tires. They may not be as big as my daughter would like, but tough.
It will be heads and shoulders above the doughnuts the SE came with.
I've scheduled an appointment to get them installed this Saturday afternoon (have a Boy Scout campout Friday and half of Saturday) so by this weekend, all my mods (for now) are done. I got my safari bikini top and the black sailcloth top yesterday so I'm ready to rock and roll.
I'm still trying to find out if I have the wiring in place for the factory fog lamps...
No word yet on my little Lucy. Still in surgery. If y'all want (I'm from Texas!) I can put some pics up of my changes on the jeep and of my little Lucy this weeekend sometime.
Is the upgraded driveshaft with a double cardan joint needed on even a mildly lifted Jeep because of the extremely short driveshaft? I can picture some pretty extreme angles. This is not a problem on other vehicles with longer driveshafts. What about the front one? Does the TJ need this same upgrade?
I am beginning to think a TJ may be a better buy. Can a TJ run 31" to 33" tires without a lift? If not, can a 2" to 3" lift accomodate them? Again, what about the driveshafts on the TJ with a lift?
Slightly off-topic of this post; Is the TJ a unibody construction or a body on frame construction?
On a mild lift it's not needed, but yes it's because of the short rear driveshaft. Front one is fine because it's longer, and on a TJ (and maybe on a YJ) it already has a double cardan joint.
TJs can 31s without a lift but 33s really require a 3" lift to be usable. Many people use a 2" suspension lift combined with a 1" body lift.
On a TJ with up to 2" sometimes 3" lift you can correct the driveshaft angle by lowering the transfer case skid, or raising the engine. Above 3" you need a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit. This consists of a driveshaft with the slip joint in the middle, a regular 'U' joint at the axle, and a double cardan joint at the transfer case. Also included is transfer case adapter housing to allow the fitting of a flanged adapter to the output shaft. Adjustable control arms are then needed to correctly align the pinion angle.
TJ is a separate body / frame construction.
Strong personal opinion next! Fitting a quality suspension lift system, sway bar disconnects, and 31" tires will make a huge difference to a standard TJ. The next huge step comes when you go to 35"+. There's nowhere 33s will get me that I can't get to on 31s. Going to 33" will give only a 1" increase in clearance compared to 31" and have possible re-gearing issues, but there is a visual "cool" factor!
Lucy is recovering okay. The doctor noticed the primary tumor was a lot bigger than expected. She also noticed that the parts removed during spaying looked unusual. Nothing conclusive, but Lucy is doing well and eating (no surprise there!) and she'll be going home today.
So I guess good news, but still some concern about cancer after losing one last year to that.
Regarding the 4.11 axles, I'm going to play it safe and stick with the 30" tires. Mileage is still a concern so the smaller tires will be the way to go, IMO.
Well everything was fine with the jeep when i brought it to the shop. BUT, hurricane Isabel has a chance of hitting me. Not to sure what to do with my jeep. I can put it in my garage to keep away from all the tree, but it usually floods pretty bad around here because of a river 5 houses down from my house. I can keep the car at a friends house who has no garage space, but it never floods over there. I was wondering where i can get a cover for my jeep. I looked at places like pep-boys but they only had covers for trucks, like pick-ups. Wondering if the cover for pick-ups would stay on. It said it was for suv's but it looked too big. Any info on where to buy a cover for a jeep. Thanks for any help and i'll be crossing my fingers that the storm blows west.
Billy - email me for a link to another site that has a long thread on this topic. Email is in my profile. Since it's a "competitor" site, I want to respect Edmunds in not posting the direct link.
Short version of the thread suggestions include: - put on your hardtop if you have one. - garage it somewhere safe - drive inland for a day to avoid it if possible - if it must stay local, park in on the leeward side (west side assumed) close to a building.
I dont' know where you can get a custom Jeep cover on short notice. One that doesn't fit well may be worse than none at all.
All the above tips have their pros and cons and are others opinions; bottom line, stay safe. Jeeps are more easily fixed and repaired than we are. Good luck weathering the storm. My folks are in Richmond and expect rain and some wind, but nothing too bad.
billy318ti I bought a full Jeep cover from http://www.ochterbeck.com/ I am wanting to sell it now though because it doesn't keep water out. quadtratec.com also has some. I recently bought a cab cover and it covers the door all the way and is suppose to be waterproof. http://www.jeepcovers.com/ Not sure a cover would do much of anything in that storm. Maybe you can find a storage building to rent for a week?
Mac Isn't there nowhere that 35s can get you that 33s can?
mullins87 In Jp magazine ( http://www.jpmagazine.com )latest issue they have the top ten best buys for a Jeep. TJs they said 2000 and up. I think just because they like the nv3550 over the ax15 tranny. In the YJ they liked either the 4 or 6 cyc '91 and up. Sometimes tough to find the magazine but I have found it at some grocery stores and bookstores.
A stock TJ can handle up to 31 x 10.50 tires. I had 31 x 10.50 BFG All Terrains on Thelma Jane before she got her little two inch lift.
Some people need to put a washer or two on their steering stops to prevent rubbing the control arms at full turn of the steering wheel when they use 10.50 width tires with the factory wheels that have 5.5" backspacing, but I didn't have to do that with Thelma Jane.
A small lift can make an amazing difference on a TJ. You've seen those pics of Thelma Jane flexing. A stock TJ has good flex, but just a small spring/shock lift really increases the flex a LOT.
All I have is the 2" Procomp lift, and I bought mine used from a wheelin bud when I first was getting into wheelin.
Mac said a YJ is better than a NO J, and that is exactly right! But... if you can get a TJ, you really ought to go for it.
Checked out a Jeep I saw in the "Show and Tell" flea market paper today. It had been sold, though. It was a 74 CJ5 for $2000. CJ's were the predecessors of the YJs, and a CJ5 has an even shorter wheel base than the CJ7s, YJs, or TJs.
Paul - Glad to hear that Lucy has made it through the surgery. I'd love to see photos of her if you'll put them up someplace - the only way I can keep contact with my favorite furry animal is through other people's photos. There used to be a couple of people that would walk their dogs by my work window occasionally, but I haven't seen any of them recently.
Billy - good luck with your preparations for Isabel. Your post brought goose bumps - I had never thought about facing something like that. Of course, I'd be happy to see any H2O fall from the sky - either liquid or frozen is fine with me! This time of year I just keep the Wrangler gassed up and hope that any fires are on a different mountain than mine!
Mtngal, I'll post some this weekend once she is feeling a bit more chipper. My herd is made up of:
2 shelties - Kermit and Lucy 3 cats - Herman, Brandy, and Smudge 1 bird - Mercedes - a triton cockatoo
I have to second what Tom said a while back. This place is very much a family type community where we can talk about almost anything, including our family loved ones, whether they are dogs, cats, or Jeeps. Thank you to the hosts for allowing this.
I'll agree - I'd love some rain, but that means I have get ready to cut the weeds back when they start growing again.
I really appreciate all the kind thoughts and assistance with me getting my TJ into a decent state and the way I'm wanting it (short of a 6cyl!)
One additional question, what are your thoughts on a K&N air filter? Will I get many gains out of it besides saving money on new filters? Will I notice a difference in my 4cyl?
I had one on my Civic and it definately changed the exhaust note and seemed to go a bit more. My Grand Cherokee has one and I like knowing I can clean it whenever, but I'm curious as to whether I'll see any improvements.
Any other simple ideas (read cheap and easy) to get a few gains out of my 4cyl?
Paul, those things are pretty controversial. On another message board where I hang out, there have been debates about those things.
I think everyone agrees that they allow more air to pass through to the engine compared to a conventional filter, and that's a good thing, but... some folks also claim that they have found dust on the downstream side of the filter in the tube going to the engine, and that is definitely a BAD thing.
Others will counter that the people finding dust getting through the filter are just not oiling the filter often enough.
To me, it just ain't worth the risk. Also, I wouldn't want to have to take the time to clean and re-oil the things like you are supposed to.
I found this on another message board. It's a great diagram that plainly shows what backspacing means. There has been some discussion here lately about backspacing, so I thought I would post this.
Notice that the left side of the wheel in this diagram is the side that goes toward the vehicle, and the right side would be the side that faces outward.
Thelma Jane has 8" wide wheels and 4" backspacing. That means my wheels would have "0" offset and the mounting plate would be right in the center instead of off to the left side of center like in this diagram.
I found this 2000 wrangler on ebay and is being sold about 16 miles from my home. As i have never purchased a wrangler before and this one has a lift, what should i be looking for or questions to ask other than the obvious questions. Its on ebay item number 2433070168. If any of you have time to take a quick look and give me your opinion it would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeff
There's always a risk in buying any used vehicle, but you can always talk to the previous owner. Usually, they will be honest with you, since they have no continuing interest in the vehicle after trading it in.
That Jeep is set up nicely, but with that 4" lift, you would want to be sure it doesn't have drive line vibrations. For that much lift, someone would have had to do a transfer case drop or install an SYE and a CV drive shaft to eliminate driveline vibes. The transfer case lowering is the "quick and dirty" fix, and the SYE and CV driveshaft is the expensive, but proper, way of doing it.
I would want to know if it has the Dana 44 rear end to help support those 33" tires. The Dana 35 might be OK, if the rear end doesn't have a locker and if you are not planning to do more than moderate wheelin'.
If you want to have a Jeep that you can really build on, then you really need to be sure to get one with the Dana 44 rear end.
There's also the question of whether that puppy has been regeared for the 33" tires. If it has been regeared, then, was it done by someone who knew what they were doing? These are questions for the previous owner. It wouldn't necessarily have been regeared, though. Some people are fine with the acceleration that they have with 33's and 3.73 gears. That brings up the next question... does it have the 3.73 gearing??? Some automatics came with 3.07 gearing. I would think the accleration would be pretty sluggish with the 3.07 gears and those 33" tires.
Don't know if you would have time to get the build sheet, but that would tell you which rear end and most likely what gearing that Jeep had from the factory. Of course, someone could have changed it.
I would be glad to call and ask some questions for ya tomorrow, if I knew how to get in touch with the previous owner. But, maybe you know someone close by who is a Jeeper and could help ya out?
K&N filters perform as advertised. They flow more air than a comparable paper filter. This can allow an engine to make more power.
Now, for an increase in air flow to have a positive effect, the stock air filter must be restricting the engine's requirements, and the only time that this will occur is at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The 20hp gains often advertised could be achievable with a big block V8 race engine, but it would be unreasonable to expect this from the average 4.0 or 2.5. The power that theoretically might be gained is unlikely to be noticed in the average Jeep. This assumes that the Jeep PCM is programmed to add greater fuel flow, and that the injection system is capable of providing it. Bear in mind also, that Jeep engines are designed to provide best power and torque at low revs.
Second point, how does it do it? An air filter is like a sieve. To flow more air either the surface area must be increased, or the holes must be made bigger. Last time I checked one, a replacement for the standard filter actually had a smaller surface area, while the cone type was about the same. The reason the K&N flows more air is because it allows larger particles to pass through it. Simple really. In fact for dusty conditions K&N will sell you an additional paper 'bag' type of filter to fit over the cone type.
Another point to consider is that an oiled cotton filter like the K&N will pass water more readily than a paper one.
However, the one thing you're guaranteed to get is a change in engine note, which comes from an increase in intake noise.
Having said all that, I use a K&N on a Rotax engined aircraft, and for that application it works very well!
The price seems fair and yes its an eye catcher. They might know the previous owner, but this is being sold by local guys with a dealer license on the internet so I bet they dont know the previous owner. I figured there would be some concernes with a lift.
Well Tom its up to you if you would like to call them I am all for it as you know much more about what your speaking of than I would know and it would be appreciated. They have a 800 number on the site. If it has all the equipment you recommened or suggest I will then go over and do a test drive. Thanks, Jeff
I did have one on my F-350 diesel, notice I said did. Of course, this truck has a 7.3 liter engine and even a small increase in air flow with the turbo will make a noticable difference. The K&N did seem to allow more air through as evidenced by what appeared to be a quicker spool up on the turbo. However, that could have been solely due to the increased intake noise and that I could only hear it better with the K&N. I never did find any traces of dirt on the clean side of the intake. But, I oiled that thing to the point where oil would drip out for a while, I DID NOT wany any dirt to get through.
Why did I change back to the factory recommended filter? I got tired of picking bugs out of the pleats of the K&N and I got tired of cleaning it, about an hour project start to finish. The paper element for my truck has a polyester fiber layer over the paper pleats that catches any bugs and it only takes two minutes to replace it.
I ran the K&N about 50k miles, other than the bugs and cleaning, I don't have any complaints about them.
You only have a 2" lift? TJ's are looking better all the time! I just spent an hour or so tonight talking to a diehard CJ-7 fan. Of course, he claims the old CJ is the best. He tends to run punched out V-8's with 35" to 40" tires.
Yeppers. Just a two inch Procomp lift. Springs and shocks. No problem with driveline angles with such a small lift. Did not have to do anything.
Hope ya get yerself a Jeep soon! Sure could use another wheelin bud. Take me up on my invitation to ride shotgun sometime, unless you get your own Jeep right away.
I've been reading all these posts about the K&N filters with great interest. I had heard about them and was mildly interested for the Tacoma (any performance gain for that little 4 cylinder would be greatly appreciated). However, after reading the above discussion, there is no way I'd put one on my Wrangler. As dry and dusty as it is around here, I'd be cleaning it ALL the time (and yes, I do tend to replace my air filters almost twice as often as you are supposed to - they get that dirty that quickly)! Thanks for all the information!
Sounds like a job for Mac or someone besides me. I THINK the 3 rows would be for V8s that some people drop into their Jeeps?
I have just the factory radiator, and the cooling system is just fine in my Jeep with the 4.0 factory engine. I can wheel that Jeep all day without the engine temperature getting more than just a few degrees above normal. You know how you do LOTS of idling when wheeling, and I have never had an overheating problem.
One of the first things I did after I bought my Sahara was ashcan the K&N the PO had installed. My friend(and BMW tuning guru) Jim Conforti bought a Rubicon a few months back and explained and documented his criticisms of K&N filters on the JU board. Long story short, the only aftermarket performance filter Jim recommends is the ITG. And as Mac pointed out, the air filter is rarely the limiting factor in the induction track.
A three (or four or five) row radiator won't lower the temperature of your engine. What it will do is have a greater reserve of cooling capacity (assuming that it's not just three small rows in the space that the standard two normally occupy).
Think of it in the same way as replacing your standard battery with a larger one. Your electrical system won't suddenly run at 24 volts, but you'll be able to draw more deeply from it than you could with the smaller one.
So, if the three row has a greater capacity and surface area (and not all do), there's no downside to fitting one, apart from the extra cost. Actually, the standard Jeep radiator is very well specified in terms of its cooling capacity. What is not so great is its construction, with an aluminum core and crimped on top and bottom tanks. It usually leaks from these crimped joints after a few years, although the leaks are often self sealing if you leave it for a while! The construction of an aftermarket radiator, two or three row, is usually soldered brass.
Finally, follow the recommendations in the handbook for servicing the coolant system, and always use distilled water for making up the correct antifreeze mixture. Don't change the radiator cap for one of a different pressure, and don't fit a lower temperature thermostat. The Jeep engines are designed to run at a fairly high temperature and the fuel system runs open loop till then. If it runs too long like that you'll get a 'check engine' light.
I will put more pics once I get some of the completed modifications this weekend. I know it isn't as modified as some with the lifts and such, but I'm proud of what we've been doing with it.
I also have an album with some of my animals, including Lucy. She's doing good. She's obviously sore, but she's eating and the stitches look good.
Hey, Jeff, I tried to call that "John" guy that it says you should contact about the Jeep you are looking at on eBay, but he didn't answer. I left a voice message for him to return my call.
I have the factory build sheet now. Got it within about 15 minutes of my request for it through Jeep.com!
Good news is that it has 3.73 gearing (unless someone regeared it, which I doubt), and the 3.73 will be much better with those 33" tires.
The bad news is that the rear diff is a Dana 35, not the Dana 44.
Now, Jeff, if you aren't going to wheel that Jeep hard, and if you don't think you will ever want to put a locker in the back, then the Dana 35 will probably do the job.
That Jeep has the factory limited slip system, which is called Trac Loc by Chrysler. It is nowhere near as good as a locker, but it is better than a plain, open rear end for sure.
I also found that that Jeep had the dual top option when it left the factory, so you need to see if you are getting both tops.
I had the same question on the tops it makes no reference to a soft top. Well hmmm the rear end is what concernes me i was wanting to get one with the Dana 44 even if i really did not need it as I at this point. However, I do not know what kinda of wheeling bug i might catch especially since finding some local trails without having to drive 3 hours. If it had the 44 i would be over there tonight to drive it just gotta think about it now.
How did you get the build sheet from jeep.com i have never seen this offered on the site. This could help me in my search.
Thanks so much its really nice of you to take the time and effort, I appreciate your help. Jeff
That Wrangler is shaping up very nicely. What type of sound bar did you install - was it an aftermarket one? The wiring didn't look as bad as I thought it might. Maybe I will do something like that - I've thought about it, but it hasn't been high on my list of priorities. We tend to listen to a news station most of the time so that we don't get TOO stuck behind accidents, so a good sound system has always fallen into the "if-I-win-the-lottery" category. However, if it isn't too hard or too expensive, I just might move it up.
I love the photos of Lucy and Kermit. They are both lovely looking friends. And Smudge is well named!
Here's a copy of a post about how to get the factory build sheet.
#9741 of 10176 factory build sheet by tsjay Aug 12, 2003 (8:48 pm) OK, it has been a while since this was posted, and they have made some minor changes in the way you get to where you need to go in order to request a factory build sheet.
Factory build sheets, for those who don't know about them, are lists of all the equipment that was included on a vehicle from the factory.
If you are looking for one for your Jeep or for a Jeep you are thinking about buying, all you need is the vehicle's VIN (vehicle identification number).
Go to www.jeep.com, type "customer service" in the search window, then on the next page select "How do I contact Chrysler?" Then, select "I need customer assistance." Finally, on the next page, choose "Send us an email." This brings up a form that you will need to fill out.
In the first box on the form, just state that you want the factory build sheet. Fill out the rest of the form, including the last eight characters of the VIN of the vehicle in question, and you will receive a very prompt reply. (If you make your request during normal business hours, you could receive a reply in as little as 30 minutes.)
This is a good way to find out if there are any outstanding recalls on the vehicle, even though that is not the reason you gave for contacting DC: they will tell you anyway.
The soundbar is from edgeauto.com and covered with Neoprene on the lower end and the top is just like the top of a softtop. Wood and foam inside so it sounds pretty good.
As for the wiring, High Voltage in Bakersfield does all my stereo work. They did the XM install in my BMW as well and I'm very impressed with their work. Nothing rattles and it is as good as new when they are done. They cost a bit, but I installed an amp as well as part of the installation. Well worth it. I tweaked the bass/treble settings to get more bass out of the rears and to balance with the front, but now it is just right.
I could have probably done the wiring myself, but I wanted it to be right the first time.
All the wires they wrapped in that tubing stuff, including the stuff going from the head unit and front speakers back to the amp. The wires run past the driver's seat, but you never see them as they are up under the door lip. VERY nice. I can get a pic or two, I think, if you want.
I'd be a bit concerned about over-oiling one of those type filters since you could foul up the MAP or O2 sensor if any of those things are downstream of the filter. Sounds like you did it right, but you have to hang around while the excess oil is dripping out.
Paper is quick and easy and cleaner to deal with imho. I wish my mower had one.
So, I guess the K&N isn't so hot for an offroad vehicle. What other tips would you guys recommend for getting some more out of the TJ SE w/o breaking the bank?
It's a diesel, so no MAP or O2 sensors to fowl. And, if by chance any oil did get sucked into the turbo and blown completely through the intercooler, it wouldn't know any difference between the fuel it's used to getting and the additional oil. But yeah, having to lay the filter out while the excess oil dripped off was a PITA. Not to mention the little bit of oil that would always drip out into the bottom of the airbox. That is some tacky, nasty stuff to try to wipe out.
Paul: The only low dollar mods I can think of are the typical intake, exhaust and electronic gizmos. The K&N, as you stated, is not for you. You could buy a new intake, or rig up something different. I looked at my setup on the Ford, drilled a large hole beside the radiator to make a ram air system. Used some 4" pvc piping to enlarge the intake between the filter and turbo. I can tell a big difference, especially at highway speeds when that ram air is most effecient. Headers and free flowing exhaust should help. A chip, while not as effective on gassers as they are on diesels, can add a modest amount of HP and torque. You might try getting rid of any mechanical fan, if yours is, and installing an electric fan. (Do Jeeps still have mechanical fans?) None of these mods are terribly expensive by themselves, but they do add up!
Plenty of snake oil out there in the form of throttle bodies and cold air intakes etc. The best you can hope for with these sorts of things is to move the power band around.
Four things guaranteed to work:
1: NOS (but you ruled that out!).
2: Rebuild the engine to make more power with high comp pistons, high lift cam, reworked head, etc., etc. This will give more power but it'll be at the top end.
3: Turbo. Again, power at the top end.
4: Supercharger. Power throughout the full range, easy installation. Downside is the cost.
Waiting for a Jeep that has the Dana 44 could be a good move. If you even THINK you might want big tires and a locker some day, then you want the 44. If you are going to do more than light off roading, then you want the 44.
Now if a super, super deal comes along on a Jeep that has the 35, maybe... But, if you are going to pay pretty much fair market value for a Jeep, might as well get one with the 44.
Great pics of the new soundbar.. I gotta have one of those. . I had an amp installed, But STILL doesnt sound right. My right channel in the front & its TOO low. Need to find time to take it back. Nice Stereo too.. Good Job!
Thanks for the info on the sound bar - I really liked the wiring - I liked that flexible conduit tubing they used. Good to know about the shop in Bakersfield - I don't mind paying more if they do it right.
Tom, doing the Canyons tomorrow. I have Boy Scout camp tonight and tomorrow morning, so this time Monday it'll be done, and it will have the new black top on.
I'll definitely be posting some pics of it for you guys.
BAMA, the 6x9 sound bar really makes it nice and loud (with them only a foot from your noggin). They have the neoprene available in different colors, like grey, red, blue, yellow etc. I obviously went with the black.
I have an amp in there too (in back) and I've tweaked the frequency settings for the back to put most of the bass there (with just a bit of treble) and most of the treble coming from the Kicker 4x6's in front. Looking back, I would have put some smaller round speakers in front, but it still sounds very clean, even at volume.
Mtngal, they are VERY much worth it and the ONLY place I'll let work on my audio stuff. Worth every penny and they sell good stuff.
As for Lucy, she is recovering well, still doesn't like to lay down for me so I can check her sutures, stitches, and drains (for the fluid buildup in the areas that had the tumors). But no signs of infection that I can see and she's doing well. She's eating and I'm sure once those stitches and sutures are out in a week and a half, she'll be running around like crazy again. Tests were not conclusive, so I'm assuming they were all benign.
Think that all i should have to do to my amp? just tweek with the settings? I ve been worried that it was connected wrong. didnt wanna mess it up even more. im really thinking about getting that soundbar. Do u have an alarm for your jeep at all?
Comments
The manifold problem was on the 97 TJs and maybe the 98s with the 4.0 engines. Not sure if the four banger manifolds had the same design flaw or not. Anyone know??? The problem was that they cracked.
According to the article in Trey's link, the Peugeot tranny was only used with the six cylinder engines for the years 87-89. Now that you have read that article, you know the answer to your question: the Peugeot tranny that was so poor was a manual.
Jim, I am not anywhere close to being an authority on YJs (Or TJs for that matter), but a YJ with a decent lift and tires on it is a VERY capable trail rig. I wheel with YJs all the time, and they go through some tough territory.
They only come up short when compared stock to stock vs the TJs.
You ain't gonna care one bit about ride quality, since you will use the Jeep for a trail rig only, but on the highway, a TJ rides about 10 times smoother than a YJ.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
YJ needs better ground clearance and more flex (not just a lift) to match a standard TJ.
Lift blocks with longer 'U' bolts and shackles will lift a vehicle, but will do nothing to provide more flex.
If you have the required fabrication equipment and skills, a SOA conversion is cheaper than a commercial lift kit. There's a bit more to it than just bolting the axles under the springs though.
There many YJ lift kits out there, some good, some bad. I've only heard good things about ARB's Old Man Emu setup. (I use an OME kit on my TJ).
When making an appreciable change to the driveshaft angle, a CV joint (actually a double Cardan joint) is not just desirable, but essential. It's usually fitted to an on road Jeep to eliminate vibration. You won't feel the vibration driving slowly off road, but you will notice when a 'U' joint snaps, or the tail housing breaks!
The YJ can be made into a very capable off roader, but you'll have to modify it to a greater extent than you would a TJ to achieve similar results.
However, all of that being said and done, a YJ is definitely better than no J!
:--)
-Paul
The exhaust manifold affected some '98s. They didn't do a recall on them, but many (including mine) cracked and it is a hefty repair!
Please keep us up to date.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today? (and your pup)
It will be heads and shoulders above the doughnuts the SE came with.
I've scheduled an appointment to get them installed this Saturday afternoon (have a Boy Scout campout Friday and half of Saturday) so by this weekend, all my mods (for now) are done. I got my safari bikini top and the black sailcloth top yesterday so I'm ready to rock and roll.
I'm still trying to find out if I have the wiring in place for the factory fog lamps...
No word yet on my little Lucy. Still in surgery. If y'all want (I'm from Texas!) I can put some pics up of my changes on the jeep and of my little Lucy this weeekend sometime.
-Paul
You know how to get the factory build sheet for that Jeep, right? Have you done that yet? It will have the gearing info on it, I'm almost positive.
But, that is not needed in this case: you have 4.11 gears unless someone changed the gearing before you bought the Jeep.
Please be sure and post about Lucy as soon as you have any info for us.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I am beginning to think a TJ may be a better buy. Can a TJ run 31" to 33" tires without a lift? If not, can a 2" to 3" lift accomodate them? Again, what about the driveshafts on the TJ with a lift?
Slightly off-topic of this post; Is the TJ a unibody construction or a body on frame construction?
On a mild lift it's not needed, but yes it's because of the short rear driveshaft. Front one is fine because it's longer, and on a TJ (and maybe on a YJ) it already has a double cardan joint.
TJs can 31s without a lift but 33s really require a 3" lift to be usable. Many people use a 2" suspension lift combined with a 1" body lift.
On a TJ with up to 2" sometimes 3" lift you can correct the driveshaft angle by lowering the transfer case skid, or raising the engine. Above 3" you need a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit. This consists of a driveshaft with the slip joint in the middle, a regular 'U' joint at the axle, and a double cardan joint at the transfer case. Also included is transfer case adapter housing to allow the fitting of a flanged adapter to the output shaft. Adjustable control arms are then needed to correctly align the pinion angle.
TJ is a separate body / frame construction.
Strong personal opinion next! Fitting a quality suspension lift system, sway bar disconnects, and 31" tires will make a huge difference to a standard TJ. The next huge step comes when you go to 35"+. There's nowhere 33s will get me that I can't get to on 31s. Going to 33" will give only a 1" increase in clearance compared to 31" and have possible re-gearing issues, but there is a visual "cool" factor!
So I guess good news, but still some concern about cancer after losing one last year to that.
Regarding the 4.11 axles, I'm going to play it safe and stick with the 30" tires. Mileage is still a concern so the smaller tires will be the way to go, IMO.
-Paul
Short version of the thread suggestions include:
- put on your hardtop if you have one.
- garage it somewhere safe
- drive inland for a day to avoid it if possible
- if it must stay local, park in on the leeward side (west side assumed) close to a building.
I dont' know where you can get a custom Jeep cover on short notice. One that doesn't fit well may be worse than none at all.
All the above tips have their pros and cons and are others opinions; bottom line, stay safe. Jeeps are more easily fixed and repaired than we are. Good luck weathering the storm. My folks are in Richmond and expect rain and some wind, but nothing too bad.
-twylie
I bought a full Jeep cover from
http://www.ochterbeck.com/
I am wanting to sell it now though because it doesn't keep water out.
quadtratec.com also has some.
I recently bought a cab cover and it covers the door all the way and is suppose to be waterproof.
http://www.jeepcovers.com/
Not sure a cover would do much of anything in that storm.
Maybe you can find a storage building to rent for a week?
Mac
Isn't there nowhere that 35s can get you that 33s can?
mullins87
In Jp magazine ( http://www.jpmagazine.com )latest issue they have the top ten best buys for a Jeep. TJs they said 2000 and up. I think just because they like the nv3550 over the ax15 tranny. In the YJ they liked either the 4 or 6 cyc '91 and up. Sometimes tough to find the magazine but I have found it at some grocery stores and bookstores.
Some people need to put a washer or two on their steering stops to prevent rubbing the control arms at full turn of the steering wheel when they use 10.50 width tires with the factory wheels that have 5.5" backspacing, but I didn't have to do that with Thelma Jane.
A small lift can make an amazing difference on a TJ. You've seen those pics of Thelma Jane flexing. A stock TJ has good flex, but just a small spring/shock lift really increases the flex a LOT.
All I have is the 2" Procomp lift, and I bought mine used from a wheelin bud when I first was getting into wheelin.
Mac said a YJ is better than a NO J, and that is exactly right! But... if you can get a TJ, you really ought to go for it.
Checked out a Jeep I saw in the "Show and Tell" flea market paper today. It had been sold, though. It was a 74 CJ5 for $2000. CJ's were the predecessors of the YJs, and a CJ5 has an even shorter wheel base than the CJ7s, YJs, or TJs.
Good luck!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Billy - good luck with your preparations for Isabel. Your post brought goose bumps - I had never thought about facing something like that. Of course, I'd be happy to see any H2O fall from the sky - either liquid or frozen is fine with me! This time of year I just keep the Wrangler gassed up and hope that any fires are on a different mountain than mine!
2 shelties - Kermit and Lucy
3 cats - Herman, Brandy, and Smudge
1 bird - Mercedes - a triton cockatoo
I have to second what Tom said a while back. This place is very much a family type community where we can talk about almost anything, including our family loved ones, whether they are dogs, cats, or Jeeps. Thank you to the hosts for allowing this.
I'll agree - I'd love some rain, but that means I have get ready to cut the weeds back when they start growing again.
I really appreciate all the kind thoughts and assistance with me getting my TJ into a decent state and the way I'm wanting it (short of a 6cyl!)
One additional question, what are your thoughts on a K&N air filter? Will I get many gains out of it besides saving money on new filters? Will I notice a difference in my 4cyl?
I had one on my Civic and it definately changed the exhaust note and seemed to go a bit more. My Grand Cherokee has one and I like knowing I can clean it whenever, but I'm curious as to whether I'll see any improvements.
Any other simple ideas (read cheap and easy) to get a few gains out of my 4cyl?
-Paul
I think everyone agrees that they allow more air to pass through to the engine compared to a conventional filter, and that's a good thing, but... some folks also claim that they have found dust on the downstream side of the filter in the tube going to the engine, and that is definitely a BAD thing.
Others will counter that the people finding dust getting through the filter are just not oiling the filter often enough.
To me, it just ain't worth the risk. Also, I wouldn't want to have to take the time to clean and re-oil the things like you are supposed to.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Notice that the left side of the wheel in this diagram is the side that goes toward the vehicle, and the right side would be the side that faces outward.
Thelma Jane has 8" wide wheels and 4" backspacing. That means my wheels would have "0" offset and the mounting plate would be right in the center instead of off to the left side of center like in this diagram.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
There's always a risk in buying any used vehicle, but you can always talk to the previous owner. Usually, they will be honest with you, since they have no continuing interest in the vehicle after trading it in.
That Jeep is set up nicely, but with that 4" lift, you would want to be sure it doesn't have drive line vibrations. For that much lift, someone would have had to do a transfer case drop or install an SYE and a CV drive shaft to eliminate driveline vibes. The transfer case lowering is the "quick and dirty" fix, and the SYE and CV driveshaft is the expensive, but proper, way of doing it.
I would want to know if it has the Dana 44 rear end to help support those 33" tires. The Dana 35 might be OK, if the rear end doesn't have a locker and if you are not planning to do more than moderate wheelin'.
If you want to have a Jeep that you can really build on, then you really need to be sure to get one with the Dana 44 rear end.
There's also the question of whether that puppy has been regeared for the 33" tires. If it has been regeared, then, was it done by someone who knew what they were doing? These are questions for the previous owner. It wouldn't necessarily have been regeared, though. Some people are fine with the acceleration that they have with 33's and 3.73 gears. That brings up the next question... does it have the 3.73 gearing??? Some automatics came with 3.07 gearing. I would think the accleration would be pretty sluggish with the 3.07 gears and those 33" tires.
Don't know if you would have time to get the build sheet, but that would tell you which rear end and most likely what gearing that Jeep had from the factory. Of course, someone could have changed it.
I would be glad to call and ask some questions for ya tomorrow, if I knew how to get in touch with the previous owner. But, maybe you know someone close by who is a Jeeper and could help ya out?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Now, for an increase in air flow to have a positive effect, the stock air filter must be restricting the engine's requirements, and the only time that this will occur is at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). The 20hp gains often advertised could be achievable with a big block V8 race engine, but it would be unreasonable to expect this from the average 4.0 or 2.5. The power that theoretically might be gained is unlikely to be noticed in the average Jeep. This assumes that the Jeep PCM is programmed to add greater fuel flow, and that the injection system is capable of providing it. Bear in mind also, that Jeep engines are designed to provide best power and torque at low revs.
Second point, how does it do it? An air filter is like a sieve. To flow more air either the surface area must be increased, or the holes must be made bigger. Last time I checked one, a replacement for the standard filter actually had a smaller surface area, while the cone type was about the same. The reason the K&N flows more air is because it allows larger particles to pass through it. Simple really. In fact for dusty conditions K&N will sell you an additional paper 'bag' type of filter to fit over the cone type.
Another point to consider is that an oiled cotton filter like the K&N will pass water more readily than a paper one.
However, the one thing you're guaranteed to get is a change in engine note, which comes from an increase in intake noise.
Having said all that, I use a K&N on a Rotax engined aircraft, and for that application it works very well!
Well Tom its up to you if you would like to call them I am all for it as you know much more about what your speaking of than I would know and it would be appreciated. They have a 800 number on the site. If it has all the equipment you recommened or suggest I will then go over and do a test drive. Thanks, Jeff
Why did I change back to the factory recommended filter? I got tired of picking bugs out of the pleats of the K&N and I got tired of cleaning it, about an hour project start to finish. The paper element for my truck has a polyester fiber layer over the paper pleats that catches any bugs and it only takes two minutes to replace it.
I ran the K&N about 50k miles, other than the bugs and cleaning, I don't have any complaints about them.
Hope ya get yerself a Jeep soon! Sure could use another wheelin bud. Take me up on my invitation to ride shotgun sometime, unless you get your own Jeep right away.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Vincent
I have just the factory radiator, and the cooling system is just fine in my Jeep with the 4.0 factory engine. I can wheel that Jeep all day without the engine temperature getting more than just a few degrees above normal. You know how you do LOTS of idling when wheeling, and I have never had an overheating problem.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Think of it in the same way as replacing your standard battery with a larger one. Your electrical system won't suddenly run at 24 volts, but you'll be able to draw more deeply from it than you could with the smaller one.
So, if the three row has a greater capacity and surface area (and not all do), there's no downside to fitting one, apart from the extra cost. Actually, the standard Jeep radiator is very well specified in terms of its cooling capacity. What is not so great is its construction, with an aluminum core and crimped on top and bottom tanks. It usually leaks from these crimped joints after a few years, although the leaks are often self sealing if you leave it for a while! The construction of an aftermarket radiator, two or three row, is usually soldered brass.
Finally, follow the recommendations in the handbook for servicing the coolant system, and always use distilled water for making up the correct antifreeze mixture. Don't change the radiator cap for one of a different pressure, and don't fit a lower temperature thermostat. The Jeep engines are designed to run at a fairly high temperature and the fuel system runs open loop till then. If it runs too long like that you'll get a 'check engine' light.
I will put more pics once I get some of the completed modifications this weekend. I know it isn't as modified as some with the lifts and such, but I'm proud of what we've been doing with it.
I also have an album with some of my animals, including Lucy. She's doing good. She's obviously sore, but she's eating and the stitches look good.
-Paul
I have the factory build sheet now. Got it within about 15 minutes of my request for it through Jeep.com!
Good news is that it has 3.73 gearing (unless someone regeared it, which I doubt), and the 3.73 will be much better with those 33" tires.
The bad news is that the rear diff is a Dana 35, not the Dana 44.
Now, Jeff, if you aren't going to wheel that Jeep hard, and if you don't think you will ever want to put a locker in the back, then the Dana 35 will probably do the job.
That Jeep has the factory limited slip system, which is called Trac Loc by Chrysler. It is nowhere near as good as a locker, but it is better than a plain, open rear end for sure.
I also found that that Jeep had the dual top option when it left the factory, so you need to see if you are getting both tops.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
How did you get the build sheet from jeep.com i have never seen this offered on the site. This could help me in my search.
Thanks so much its really nice of you to take the time and effort, I appreciate your help. Jeff
I love the photos of Lucy and Kermit. They are both lovely looking friends. And Smudge is well named!
Here's a copy of a post about how to get the factory build sheet.
#9741 of 10176 factory build sheet by tsjay Aug 12, 2003 (8:48 pm)
OK, it has been a while since this was posted, and they have made some minor changes in the way you get to where you need to go in order to request a factory build sheet.
Factory build sheets, for those who don't know about them, are lists of all the equipment that was included on a vehicle from the factory.
If you are looking for one for your Jeep or for a Jeep you are thinking about buying, all you need is the vehicle's VIN (vehicle identification number).
Go to www.jeep.com, type "customer service" in the search window, then on the next page select "How do I contact Chrysler?" Then, select "I need customer assistance." Finally, on the next page, choose "Send us an email." This brings up a form that you will need to fill out.
In the first box on the form, just state that you want the factory build sheet. Fill out the rest of the form, including the last eight characters of the VIN of the vehicle in question, and you will receive a very prompt reply. (If you make your request during normal business hours, you could receive a reply in as little as 30 minutes.)
This is a good way to find out if there are any outstanding recalls on the vehicle, even though that is not the reason you gave for contacting DC: they will tell you anyway.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
As for the wiring, High Voltage in Bakersfield does all my stereo work. They did the XM install in my BMW as well and I'm very impressed with their work. Nothing rattles and it is as good as new when they are done. They cost a bit, but I installed an amp as well as part of the installation. Well worth it. I tweaked the bass/treble settings to get more bass out of the rears and to balance with the front, but now it is just right.
I could have probably done the wiring myself, but I wanted it to be right the first time.
All the wires they wrapped in that tubing stuff, including the stuff going from the head unit and front speakers back to the amp. The wires run past the driver's seat, but you never see them as they are up under the door lip. VERY nice. I can get a pic or two, I think, if you want.
-Paul
Paper is quick and easy and cleaner to deal with imho. I wish my mower had one.
Steve, Host
-Paul
PS NOS is NOT an option.
Paul: The only low dollar mods I can think of are the typical intake, exhaust and electronic gizmos. The K&N, as you stated, is not for you. You could buy a new intake, or rig up something different. I looked at my setup on the Ford, drilled a large hole beside the radiator to make a ram air system. Used some 4" pvc piping to enlarge the intake between the filter and turbo. I can tell a big difference, especially at highway speeds when that ram air is most effecient. Headers and free flowing exhaust should help. A chip, while not as effective on gassers as they are on diesels, can add a modest amount of HP and torque. You might try getting rid of any mechanical fan, if yours is, and installing an electric fan. (Do Jeeps still have mechanical fans?) None of these mods are terribly expensive by themselves, but they do add up!
Four things guaranteed to work:
1: NOS (but you ruled that out!).
2: Rebuild the engine to make more power with high comp pistons, high lift cam, reworked head, etc., etc. This will give more power but it'll be at the top end.
3: Turbo. Again, power at the top end.
4: Supercharger. Power throughout the full range, easy installation. Downside is the cost.
Does that help?
:--)
Steve, Host
Lucy is a beautiful doggy. Hope she continues to do well. Are there some test results you are waiting on? Tests on the tumors, I mean?
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Now if a super, super deal comes along on a Jeep that has the 35, maybe... But, if you are going to pay pretty much fair market value for a Jeep, might as well get one with the 44.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I gotta have one of those. .
I had an amp installed, But STILL doesnt sound right. My right channel in the front & its TOO low. Need to find time to take it back.
Nice Stereo too..
Good Job!
Keep JEEPIN
BAMA
I'll definitely be posting some pics of it for you guys.
BAMA, the 6x9 sound bar really makes it nice and loud (with them only a foot from your noggin). They have the neoprene available in different colors, like grey, red, blue, yellow etc. I obviously went with the black.
I have an amp in there too (in back) and I've tweaked the frequency settings for the back to put most of the bass there (with just a bit of treble) and most of the treble coming from the Kicker 4x6's in front. Looking back, I would have put some smaller round speakers in front, but it still sounds very clean, even at volume.
Mtngal, they are VERY much worth it and the ONLY place I'll let work on my audio stuff. Worth every penny and they sell good stuff.
As for Lucy, she is recovering well, still doesn't like to lay down for me so I can check her sutures, stitches, and drains (for the fluid buildup in the areas that had the tumors). But no signs of infection that I can see and she's doing well. She's eating and I'm sure once those stitches and sutures are out in a week and a half, she'll be running around like crazy again. Tests were not conclusive, so I'm assuming they were all benign.
-Paul
just tweek with the settings?
I ve been worried that it was connected wrong.
didnt wanna mess it up even more.
im really thinking about getting that soundbar.
Do u have an alarm for your jeep at all?
glad to hear your puppy is ok..
BT