Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Wrangler



  • wheelsdownwheelsdown Posts: 250

    Many insurance companies have a low mileage rate. You should check with yours.

    Keep hanging around. this thread doesn't get as many posts mas it used to. I see a lot of posts on the '97 to '06 maintenance thread where you can offer a lot (along with Paul and Martin).
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    I only put about 2000 miles per year on Thelma Jane nowadays.

    That should qualify you for a low mileage discount! I had checked that out once a very long time ago. I don't remember the exact figures but it was far less than average of 12,000 or miles the average person puts on a car each year and it was certainly greater than 2,000 miles. Of course, that is subject to change since I last checked.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Tom, I'm still here. Just not posting as much. Many posts seem to be about issues that I can't really answer w/o sounding dumb or flat out giving wrong advice. :) I miss the just random things we'd discuss here that were Jeep-related.

    Haven't heard much of you going to TB lately. I know my wife and I would love to go wheeling with ya some time, perhaps in a small group with you, Hank, Jim M., and a few others. Things have definitely changed a bit.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I look in here (the original Jeep Wrangler forum) quite often, and occasionally on the many other new ones, though I rarely post now.
    I have to admit that most of my 'chat' time is now taken up on a very active H1 forum. :blush:
  • shamokinshamokin Posts: 2
    2000 Wrangler; 50,000 miles on it.

    Was rear ended a year ago. Damage repaired. However, I noticed the brake light was non fuctional. I returned to the shop that repaired the damage. They got the light working. They advised that, if the problem happens again, I was to make sure that the two pins in the door were extended and in contact with the two pins in the frame. When the light became non-functional, I pulled the pins out of the frame and inserted a test light as a probe. It feels like there is nothing in these holes.

    My question: is there a switch or something that may have not been attached properly when the vehicle was repaired that may have become disconnected from the frame? How does one get behind to reattach? From under the vehicle or in back of the paneling?

    The bulb and fuse for the circuit are functional.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    No switch... just button connectors. Should have 2 on your TJ tailgate contacting 2 button-looking things on the tub. if you hvae nothing there, they may have fallen out, though I'm not sure how - they are pulled out in the direction of the tailgate...

  • shamokinshamokin Posts: 2
    Button connectors are there, and you can pull them out. How do the buttons on the tub get their power? Tester does not light, and, when the buttons are removed, there does not appear to be any electrical connections.

    BTW, thanks for your help on this one.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Terry and All:

    State Farm has a policy with a 7500 mile maximum annual usage on the vehicle that saves me $60 per six month premium. I switched to that policy for Thelma Jane, since I can very easily stay below 7500 miles per year on her.

    Saving $120 per year on insurance for one vehicle isn't huge, but it's better than a stick in the eye, right?

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    There's your problem. Those buttons get power via wiring behind the passenger rear tail light. 2 wires feed those buttons. My guess is that they got cut somehow. You can remove the trim piece at the bottom (plastic 'bolts') and reach up there and connect em. You may need to expose some wire and reattach em.

    I deactivated mine when I did LED tail lights and put my 3rd taillight on a swingaway tire carrier. But I left the buttons and such in place.

  • I have a 2000 tj with a 4.0 I6, automatic. Can I remove all the electronics and put a carb and distributor on it. I want to run propane in it. If so what HEI can I used and do I have to do anything to the transmission.Thanks Gary
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Yes, it could be done, though I'm not sure why you want to complicate things by replacing the ignition and injection components.
    Propane injection is relatively simple and can be done through the throttle body.
    I suggest you do a little research on propane conversion manufacturers, though I'm not aware of a kit specifically for the 4.0 I6. Most conversion kits are fairly generic though.

    To answer your original question, the I6 is virtually unchanged from when it used to have a carb as standard. The carb didn't work well though, and a kit to add fuel injection was a popular conversion (and is still available today). So yes, a carb and distributor is a simple swap from an earlier model.
  • Hi Tom.You remember me as Chief. (you know, the Navy guy) Glad to see you n Hank are doing well. I'm driving a 07 X now. Love it. Happy wheelin'
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Sure I remember you, Chief. You were so kind to me when I lost my Rossie Pup.

    Glad you have that new Jeep.

    Stick around.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • They are fixing mine today. 06 wrangler X with 16,00 mi. They just replaced severely warped rotors and metal to metal brakes. The Shimmy is under warranty so no charge. 364.00 for the rotors and brakes.
  • I need new tires for my Wrangler and I'm looking for info. I've had good luck with my Goodyear MT/Rs, but am always up to try a new tire. Now that the BFGoodrich KM2s have been around a while, anyone have experience with them?
    Trying to decide whether to get another set of the MT/Rs or try out the KM2s (a little more expensive).
    Thanks for the feedback.
  • Yup. She's five years old and I feel it's time to sell. So... I took her to Car Max for a first appraisal just to get a ballpark figure.

    She's a 2004 Jeep Wrangler Sport. 60K miles. Great condition. Loaded w/ options. I know you'd need more detailed info, but...

    Looking on KBB and eBay, I figured she's worth at the high water mark $15K. Probably less.

    But Car Max came back w/ an estimate of $8500. Which I find to be criminally low.


  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Looking on KBB and eBay, I figured she's worth at the high water mark $15K. Probably less.
    But Car Max came back w/ an estimate of $8500. Which I find to be criminally low.

    A quick scan of the completed listings on eBay shows that over the last couple of weeks only around 10% of the 100+ '04s actually sold, with prices averaging around $10-$12K.

    There's nothing criminal about the Carmax offer. Why would they pay you more than they could buy one for at the 'dealer only' auctions? However, you now know the price you can get if you want a hassle free instant sale with no effort on your part.

    If you want a shot at a better price you need to sell it yourself, and you need to invest the time and money to make that happen. Detailing, servicing, maybe putting a warranty on it, will all give you the best chance of a good result.

    There's never been a better time to be a car buyer in recent years, nor a worse time to be a seller. The current economy and gas prices have seen to that.
    Everyone thinks that their vehicle is worth more than it actually is, and an '04 Sport with 60K isn't exactly a rare commodity, even if it is loaded and in great condition.

    If you can make yours more attractive than comparable ones I'd say $10-$11K would be a reasonable expectation.
  • Thanks, as always.
  • Look at the pictures in the link. It is crazy:
  • I just got back from the dealer who charged me $300 to install a new O2 oxygen sensor in my '05 Wrangler inline 6 cyl. He said this caused the engine light to come on, (P2096 message). They said it was a 2 1/2 hour job. Does this sound reasonable or did I get ripped off?

    Thanks for you advice
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Depends which O2 sensor was replaced. One is easy to get to, the other, not so much.

  • Thanks Paul,

    The dealer said it was the one right behind the manifold.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Sounds plausible. It can take some contortion to get to that one, but I wouldn't think that one TOO hard to get to, esp with a lift that they'd use to elevate the Jeep. It is the harder of the two to get to IIRC.

  • Thanks for your advice Paul

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    That's why we're here! :)

    I'd highly suggest a Haynes manual for some basic DIY maintenance and work you can do. Sensor replacement is easy enough IF you are willing to spend some time on it. You can also get Factory Service Manuals, which are MUCH more indepth and year specific. I have both, but use the Haynes for 80% of the work I've done.

    Basic hand tools (socket, Torx bits, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc) are all you really need, along with a floor jack and some quality jack stands. My TJ hasn't seen a dealer since I bought it and I've replaced sensors, suspension, electronics, etc all by myself for a fraction of the dealer costs.

  • Hello,

    I am purchasing a Jeep Wrangler for my daughter's 16th and would appreciate your expertise on a few questions I have. I have not purchased the vehicle yet, b/c I am having a mechanic take a look at it first. It's a 2004 Wrangler SE. It's missing the back seat, and only has a soft top. I'd like to purchase a back seat, hard top, the crome bar that extends across the front grill (?), a lift kit and a small summer top.
    1. Is there anything you can tell me that a new Jeep owner should know?
    2. Is there a specific brand I should purchase or not purchase? I found a hard top made by Fleet Air for under $1000.
    3. I am looking for a back seat on craigslist. What make and year should I be looking for? I have found two 2005 Jeeps to be parted out. Will this seat fit?

    Please feel free to educate me on the various models, b/c at this point I know very little. Obviously. :blush:

  • Hey Tom,
    It has been awhile since I have posted on here... Heck, it has been awhile since I have even read any of the posts, either!

    This past weekend, I was having various problems with my 03 Sahara TJ. I took it to the local Goodyear place and they did a good job of doing the regular, overdue, maintainence. After a good tune up with plugs and several system flushes, it runs great!

    Having moved to Florida back in March 07, I do miss the offroading that we had in northern VA. Oh well, at least I can give the 4wd system a run on the beaches south of Jacksonville. I do wish that I had the opportunity to get really off road somewhere in the northern FL area.... Jacksonville and the surrounding areas.

    Anyone got any ideas????

    Missing the off road challenge!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    1. Ensure your daughter is aware of the higher COG of a TJ. I have a 97 SE that my daughter nearly rolled when going around a corner. So be aware that this is NOT a sports car (not very fast either). :) Look the Jeep over for signs of offroading. By default you'll have either 28 or 30" tires and 4.10 gearing. The missing back seat has me wondering if it was used like that. Pics would help.
    2. For hard top, I'd go bestop or factory. Period. You can find decent deals on the various jeep forums. Other brands may not last as long or may have leak issues.
    3. 2005 seats SHOULD fit. They changed the design a few years ago to have the latch lever be at the top of the seat vs down at the back/base like it was on earlier TJ's. Your manual should indicate how to fold the seat forward. Just make sure it matches up. If you don't have a manual, I can check. I have manuals for all year TJ's.

    The SE is the basic model. Not bad for a 16 yo, but if they want to offroad later, the rear axle may need to be addressed. The stock D35 is okay, but for larger tires, could be an issue. If you ever go with larger tires, regearing will need to be considered. I hope you have a manual vs automatic. :)

    There is a LOT you can do with the SE feature-wise, etc.

    Personally, I'd stay away from chrome. Black looks lots better. :) Not sure what that chrome bar across the front is unless you're talking about a light hoop.

    I can give you my email if you have specific questions, but feel free to ask away here if you'd like.

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    You may need to head up into GA / SC for some wheeling. :)

  • Hi Paul,

    Thanks so much for all that info. It is very helpful. It is a manual, 5 speed. I think you are right about the black bar across the front instead of chrome. The Jeep is black and silver. Do you have a favorite site for the accessories we talked about; the hard top and black bar across the front? The back seat was used like that; evidently the 1st owner (only 2nd owner now) used it like that for travel luggage. There is only one small dent on the passenger side rear corner. The mechanic is checking it out today, so I'll know more today or tomorrow.

    I'll see if I can get some pics to you also.

    Thanks again,

    Chelsea :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I have a few I can recommend, but not sure Edmunds would like me posting up other web sites.

    For new stuff, you can check out or To find used stuff, I can send you some mail.

    I'd really like to see a pic of the bar you're talking about. Is it something like this?


    Depending on the bumper (stock or aftermarket), you can find these pretty easily. Mine was made by a company no longer in business, but there are options to work with stock bumpers.

    Here is the rest of my TJ, which is also a 4 cylinder. :)

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I looked on some of my Jeep hangouts and counted at LEAST 6 hard tops for sale, so I know you can find one easily and save some $$. If you make your email visible, I can email some information about them. I also saw some back seats - but your interior colors would dictate which ones would look best. :)

    You can email me at skimblzbvs at yahoo dot com if you want.

  • I was wondering if there is anyone who knows how to connect a PA speaker to my CB radio, all i have is a headphone jack in the back of my CB but i hear there is a way to connect the speaker to it so that I can talk on the speaker and the CB with the same microphone. please help!!!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Depends purely on the CB model. My cobra has a plug for an external speaker, but no PA capabilities. Probably need to check your cb's documentation to see if it is P/A capable.

  • I need to build a frame I can drive under to remove & install my hard top with a hoist on my '05 unlimited.

    I was thinking along the idea of a swing set "on steroids" type of frame that I could attach a hoist to and drive under, remove / install the hard top and drive away.

    Has anyone done this or have an idea that would work?

    Thanks for your help.

  • I would think it would work. In fact, if you could find an old swing set the kids had outgrown, you could probably use it. You should tie the swing set down to the ground, especially if you plan to leave the top hanging, because the wind could blow it over if it is not tied down.
  • I have a 03 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon. A few days ago the check engine light came on so i took it to the dealership and they said the "leak detecter pump" needs to be replaced. What is this and can i still drive my car without getting it fixed? They want over $450 to fix it and right now i don;t have the money. Anybody got anything for me...
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I believe that is part of your fuel system vapor management (evaporator system). Mac will correct me if I'm wrong, but I THINK that is what it is.

    Have you checked to make sure your gas cap is secure and good? You can probably still drive w/o getting it fixed, but you may have reduced mileage and risk polluting more. If you're in California or any state that requires vehicle inspections, you WILL fail for throwing a code and having a Check Engine Light (CEL) displayed.

  • Thanks for the help... I'll check the gas cap and i live in SC so no inspection is needed. I bought this jeep 4 months ago as a toy more or less so it's not my main car. I want to get it fixed but don't have the money to fork out if its not that serious. Do you know how hard this is to fix and where could i order a replacement part?

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd have to defer to mac on that. But if it is the evap cannister setup where it is, I would think swapping it wouldn't be too hard, unless it is VIN coded...

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The pump can fail, but it's not that common. After the gas cap, the second most likely cause of an evap code is a perished or disconnected vacuum line in the evap system.
    All the system is doing is checking to see if gas fumes can leak from the tank into the atmosphere. If it detects a leak it throws a code and illuminates the MIL.
    It's annoying, but won't affect the functionality at all.
  • Folks, it's with a heavy heart that I announce I am leaving the Jeep family. I have purchased an Audi (cue: booing) and will soon be selling my '04 Jeep Wrangler Sport. It's been enormous fun and a great vehicle. I would recommend one to anyone who ever asks, and will possibly return to Jeep at some point in the future. (This has mainly been a financial decision.) Thanks to everyone here for all the help/information/smiles over the years. If you happen to pass an Audi at some point, and can't figure why the driver is giving you the Jeep wave, just assume it's me.

    Mike :cry:
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Bummer, Mike!

    I hope things work out differently for you and you end up keeping the Jeep, but I know sometimes we have to do what we have to do.

    You know, you can still post here and be part of the "Jeep family" without actually owning a Jeep, don't you? I posted in here for months and months before I ever owned a Jeep.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • Okay, I've been running a limited slip (Detroit Truetrac) in my front axle (dana 30, Jeep TJ) for over a year, and while mostly happy with it, i realize that limited slips do...slip when you least need them to.
    What would be the driveability concerns with putting a Detroit Locker in the front? When I'm not in 4wd, would that cause problems?
    I don't notice the Truetrac unless in 4wd, would that still be the case?

    Thanks for the help.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    I run a Lock Right in my TJ's front differential (Dana 30), and it does a great job. In two wheel drive, the only way you know it is there is by the slight racheting noise it makes in tight turns, like when you are pulling into a parking stall.

    If your Jeep is an automatic, you might try applying a little brake while giving it some gas in those situations when you need to make that front differential lock up. You might decide you could live with that limited slip if that trick works for you.

    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    As Tom said, try modifying your technique before changing the diff as the TrueTrac is very well suited to the front of a Wrangler.
    IMO, the only other choice would be a selectable locker like an ARB or ECTED.

    Lightly braking as it starts to slip is the way to go.
    Don't hit the brakes if a wheel is spinning wildly though, or you'll break a halfshaft or 'u' joint.
    Just back off and let it slow down, then give it some brake.
  • Hey folks! I am considering selling my 03 Sahara auto Wrangler and either purchasing an 06 Rubicon or maybe an 07 or newer Wrangler.

    I am no fan of the 4 dr model and am also somewhat concerned about moving away from the 4.0 liter, long history, and quite dependable, straight six vs. the new V6 offered in the newer models. As such, I would welcome any thoughts from those that have some experience with the new Wrangler.

    Mac or Tom, any thoughts??

    Thanks - Chuck
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hi, Chuck.

    The folks I know who have the newer Wranglers seem to be pretty happy with that V6. If you are going to be mainly on the pavement, it shouldn't really matter and may even be a better engine for street use than was the good old 4.0L.

    The concern with the V6 is low end torque, which is something the 4.0L was famous for. That really comes into play mainly when you are crawling out on the trails, so if you are not going to be "wheelin' " very much, the V6 should be fine. Apparently, the V6 doesn't do too bad in the low end torque department, because people I have wheeled with seem to be OK with it.

    I think I would want the Rubicon model, if I were going to get a newer Jeep with the V6 engine, because the Rubicon transfer case gives you a 4:1 gear ratio, if I remember correctly, and the other models have a 2.72:1 ratio. The lower gearing would help compensate for the lower torque of the V6 at extremely low RPM.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Wot Tom said! ;)

    Additionally, if you get a late model Wrangler, make sure it's a soft top unless you want to take a chance on seeing water cascading over the dash in the rain.
    It's an issue that still hasn't found a solution.

    While I could easily afford to replace my '99 if I wanted, I haven't yet seen anything Wrangler that would be a significant increase in performance or value.
    However, if I had to, then a two door Rubicon would probably be my choice.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If it was a financial decision, I sure hope you have maintenance covered on that Audi! I have an 05 and it has been in the shop for a lot of quirky stuff since nearly day one (our first one, totaled in a wreck, was darn near flawless).

    I'm still loving my Jeep, but I haven't done much with it the last month or two. :(

    Best of luck with your Audi (would love to see what kind ya got - I DO love the A5) and hope to see you back in a fun toy Jeep soon!

Sign In or Register to comment.