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Jeep Wrangler

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I'd go against the grain of mac and Tom on this. I'd opt for an 06. Here's a few reasons why:

    1. 4.0 engine is darn near bulletproof and a proven engine. The V6 is okay, and you can probably do things to it to make it more of a performer, but I'm not into those kinds of engine mods.
    2. TJ's have a HUGE aftermarket base at THIS time and those parts are a LOT cheaper than comparable JK parts at THIS TIME. That may change as the JK is out longer, but for now, the TJ is still a LOT cheaper to mod/upgrade.
    3. JK's (08+) have a tire pressure system that will drive you nuts if you airdown offroad. 07's don't have it or it works differently.

    IMO, if you're going to wheel it, a TJ will be easier/cheaper to fix/maintain than a new JK. I sure wouldn't wanna flop a new JK (I have flopped a TJ).

    Now depending on your usage, that could be different. The JK axles are generally stronger than the TJ's D44's. The JK is more streetable than the TJ (more comfortable). But if you're going to wheel it, a TJ is a better way to go (and easier to fix).

    Just go with the soft top only. The freedom top is a pain from what I've read about it.

    In making your decision, you can't go wrong with either, but each has their strengths, depending on what YOU want.

    -Paul
  • Thanks, Tom. I'll continue to lurk around here. And I'm giving my Jeep a BIG hug before she's gone for good.

    Thanks, Paul, as well. I know Audi's maint can be crazy, so yeah, I had her checked thoroughly and folded a warranty into the loan. She's an '05 A4 Quattro w/ 6spd manual.

    Never posted a pic of the Jeep before; trying now. If successful, it's her in Joshua Tree National Park.

    image
  • Recently i've been having problems getting my soft top on and off. I believe the bars are bent to the point where it is ripping my top. Does anyone know a way to fix the bars so they no longer put so much pressure on the top? Also if that can't be fixed, can you just buy the hardware for the soft top, and where is a good place to do so?
    Thank you
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Have you hit anything or laid the Jeep over to cause any kind of bend? Have you been raising or lowering your top in the cold?

    It is ALMOST a fine art to getting the TJ top up and down smoothly. I don't mess with it but twice a year - once in the spring to take the top off and run the safari, and once in the fall to put the soft top back on. During that time, the soft top is totally off - hardware and all.

    But there is a process that I find works. But I would like to know if you have done anything to the soft top hardware (bows/frame) that would put any kind of stress on the top. Properly fit, it IS tight, but the cold does NOT help at all.

    -Paul
  • I haven't hit anything or laid the jeep over. I do take it on and off several times in the summer and spring. I also have put it up when it was chilly, around 50-55 degrees. I found a website that just sells the hardware, so i might just fix the top and buy new hardware. How well does the safari top protect from rain??
    Thank you
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It does pretty well but there is a gap between where the door surrounds turn down and the cage so water can get in there, but it's not bad. I'm lining my interior this summer and all carpet is coming out. I run a duster in back and occasionally a windjammer, but Bestop's Halftop setup is much better and eliminates those gaps quite well. If I were buying something now, it'd be one of those.

    Do you have pics of where the top is ripping? It sounds more like a procedural issue when putting the top up or perhaps even down.

    Here's how I've done it with no problems.
    Taking top down:
    1. Remove rear window and side windows.
    2. Undo plastic clips in door surrounds.
    3. Undo latches in windshield frame, but do NOT totally undo yet.
    4. Go to rear of tub and press down slightly on rear bow and remove corner pieces from tub.
    5. Finish unclamping windshield area and fold back slowly. As you get close to it laying flat, be sure to fold the plastic door surround clip things inwards. If you don't, you run the risk of them tearing out.

    Putting top up. See steps above.
    1. Unfold up to windshield frame.
    2. Insert windshield frame clamps but do NOT clamp em down.
    3. Press down on rear bow and insert rear corners into tub.
    4. Ensure plastic clips are not being pinched between soft top frame and door surrounds.
    5. Ensure middle bow is resting on rest of frame (you'll see what I mean if you look at your soft top up from inside by the cage hoop).
    6. Clamp down windshield frame.
    7. Insert FRONT clips into door surrounds.
    8. Insert rear window
    9. Insert side windows. Having the second clip unhooked at this point, makes it a LOT easier to start the zippers.
    10. Insert rearmost plastic clip into door surrounds.

    Enjoy.

    -Paul
  • i have a 94 jeep wrangler sahara with the exact modifications as you except i have a 3in lift. But i put a flo masters 40 series exaust on mine and it adds some "texture". Its only a deep tone, but from what i herd its the best quality out there.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,329
    North-Central Kentucky received @5" of snow and 1" of ice over the past two days, dropping fifteen or so trees across the road to our house. Thanks to the Lord and Jeep engineers we were able to bypass all but two of the trees by cutting across a snowy/icy/muddy cornfield in our trusty 1999 Sahara. Our power was off for about fourteen hours so the Jeep allowed us to reach civilization and obtain hot coffee and Mexican food for lunch. Yes Tom, I hugged my Jeep today!
    ;)

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Hey, didn't know that you were in KY. Well, if I knew it, I forgot it.

    Over here in western KY we have it much worse. My power has been off since 3:00 AM last Tuesday! Tomorrow morning will make one week! I think I heard that we had 2" of ice.

    There is not one single full grown tree that I have seen ANYWHERE around here that does not have some of the major upper limbs broken off.

    I'm at work now in Madisonville, and we got our power back here just yesterday.

    Glad you hugged your Jeep, but have you hugged it TODAY? :)

    Tomster
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 12,329
    I hope you get your power back soon; I had to take my son to school and then [email protected] miles in the other direction to the job that I'm working this week. Despite more snow and fairly slick roads my TJ handled it with no drama.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • In 1989 I bought a new Wrangler but later sold it because the woman who gave birth to my child didn't like to shift gears (years later she brought home a 5 speed Saturn). This year I got back at her and bought a 2006 Wrangler for my birthday. My question is, did Wranglers get smaller? It sure seems like my old 1989 was bigger on the inside than this 2006.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I don't think they got smaller, but the dash configuration changes may make it feel that way.

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It sure seems like my old 1989 was bigger on the inside than this 2006.

    I guess it's possible you might have grown since 1989...........I know I have! :blush:
  • Yeah Mac...my last wrangler was a 2003 Sahara. A while back I got a 07 Wrangler X.
    The sad thing is the interior is a tad larger, but I still felt like I was sittin' in a Crosley.
    Wrangler interiors don't grow at the same rate old Navy Chiefs do.

    Happy Jeepin'
    Chief
    Oh......you DO remember Crosleys, right?
    : :
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Oh......you DO remember Crosleys, right?

    I never owned one but you still see them occasionally. Many different body styles that all looked like a miniature version of something else, from a British sports car, to a delivery truck, to a Jeep.

    Here's a couple pics of the Jeep look-alike called a Farm Off Road or FOR.
    Look in the background of the red one to see how small they really were compared to the people there.

    image

    image

    For a nostalgic look at many more of the same and different body styles click HERE
    then click on the link at the bottom of each page to see more.
  • My ECTED gave out and auburn is cool and replacing it. The only problem is the shop who did it for me before wants to charge me out the....you know where to replace it.

    I am experienced with replacing axles and all sorts of engine repair, my question is does anyone have a link helping set the gears so i don't burn them out. My clubs board talks about how i need to buy an OX or Detroit (yes i know they are great but this price is right!!!) , so i am coming here lol.

    Any help would be appreciated....Thanks!!

    Axle- Front Dana 30 w/4.10 ratio

    Any other info need let me know!!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I am experienced with replacing axles and all sorts of engine repair, my question is does anyone have a link helping set the gears so i don't burn them out.

    Go here: ALLDATA, to get twelve months access to the Factory Service Manual (FSM) for $26.95.
    It contains very specific and detailed information on how to do the job.

    You can also download a very good generic installation guide here: YUKON, that has some excellent illustrations of what the gear mesh patterns should look like.

    Personally, I'd go for an ECTED every time over an OX, Detroit, or ARB. ;)
  • I recently purchases a 2007 Wrangler X and don't particularly like the gap between the tires and the fender flares. I am simply looking for tires and wheels that will fill that gap without a lift. Any suggestions (sizes, brand, etc.)?

    Thanks,

    A. J.
  • Its nice to see the old jeep faces on here along with some new ones. Its been right at 2 years since i sold my 2005 rubi unlimited due to financial reason from a health issue. Things are slowly getting better for me..I have whats called TMJ which was caused by an auto accident years ago but now in my 40's really walloped me one. Ive had to get braces for my teeth to try and straighten out my bite as my jaw alignment is off which has effected my chewing muscles which in turn has irritated that nerves in my face...causing pain and dizziness...yeah its stinks...but still kickin....Anyway...its been hard these past 2 years seeing all these wranglers out and about and wanting to give the jeep wave...Heck on the way to the office today to play catch up there were 3 with tops off as its in the low 80's right now....darn...i miss my wrangler...if/when this tmj stuff gets better im heading straight to my local jeep dealer as i want a bright blue sierra unlimited....well cheers...hope everyone is doing good.......
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Welcome back, Jeff! TMJ can be pretty much of a nightmare (I'm not saying anything you don't already know). I hope the treatment helps and looking forward to your getting the wave back!

    Good luck.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Hi Jeff,
    I understand what you mean, as it only needs a fresh filling that hasn't been shaped properly to completely throw off the alignment of your teeth as you chew, which can be really irritating. What TMJ is to a lumpy filling sounds like what pneumonia is to a sniffle.

    Good luck with getting things fixed, and keep some brochures around. A picture on a screen doesn't hold a candle to the feel and smell of a glossy brochure.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Deal Of The Week - Jeep Wrangler (Edmunds Daily)

    "Last month, Jeep sold 9,088 Wranglers. That was actually an increase of 2,000 over last year."

    image
  • Any significant differences in a 95, a 2000 and a 2002? All have about same mileage (80-90K and a 2002 with 44K).

    Thanks in advance!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Any significant differences in a 95, a 2000 and a 2002? All have about same mileage (80-90K and a 2002 with 44K).

    Between a '95 and an '00, huge.....it's a totally different vehicle.
    Between an '00 and an '02, very little.
  • Between a '95 and an '00, huge.....it's a totally different vehicle.

    I assume it's a good thing?
  • tracy3999tracy3999 Posts: 10
    I have not taken my doors off my jeep yet!! The reason why is that im not sure how!! Do i need a special tool ? If you can give me some directions i would love it.. Thank you..
  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    Did Jeep make half steel doors for the 06 Wrangler Sport? If not, are there any other years that will fit?

    Thanks
  • mgarviemgarvie Posts: 17
    Give a little squirt of WD40 to loosen the post through hinge.

    Gently remove the nut at the bottom of the post with a 13mm wrench (at least my year is 13mm).

    Lift the door up without chipping the paint.

    Then wonder where you're gonna put then. Mine are sitting in the way in the garage for everyone to trip over.
  • tsjaytsjay Posts: 4,591
    Armymedic:

    Short wheel base Jeeps were designated as YJ's from '87 thru '95. They are the Jeeps with the "square" headlights. They have leaf springs all the way around and do not ride nearly as smoothly as the TJ's ('97 - '06) or the JK's ('07 - '09), which have coil springs.

    YJs do not have the axle articulation in stock configuration that a stock TJ or a stock JK would have. YJ's can be modified to be killer trail rigs, but stock to stock, the TJ or the JK will out perform the YJ off road big time, because of that better articulation.

    There were no '96 models, as this was the transition year from the YJ to the TJ.

    I would stay with the 99 or later models, because I believe the 99s were the first ones with distributorless ignition.

    I don't know if you have any plans to offroad that Jeep, but, if so, then deftintely find one with the Dana 44 rear end (as opposed to the Dana 35). The Dana 44 is much stronger than the Dana 35 and will support the use of bigger tires and a locker better than will the Dana 35.

    Tom
    Have you hugged your Jeep today?
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yeah, what he said! ;)

    As for half doors.. I THINK the halfdoors for TJ's are interchangeable between 97and 06.

    -Paul
  • td1964td1964 Posts: 1
    heat and a/c works great, but when i switch selector to defrost air circulates fine thru all areas except windshield top vents. i can see the metal piece and black plastic cylinder (like a cigarette ) by my knee move but still no air get thru the windshield defroster. this seems common for 97 according to other messages, but is there anything i can do before taking to the dealership? also, thought it might be the vent lever and i could replace that to see if it fixes it?

    thanks for your help
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....but is there anything i can do before taking to the dealership?

    Your problem is that the defroster door, which diverts air inside the HVAC unit up to the windshield, isn't moving even though the external mechanism seems to be functioning ok.
    What has actually happened is that the connection to the door (which is made of a brittle plastic) has broken internally.

    Unfortunately, not only was the door never made available separately, but the upper housing (part #4864 945) of which it is a part appears to be no longer available.
    I have seen aftermarket kits on eBay that claim to fix the problem but I've never used one.

    Some people live with it, some people hunt down a used HVAC unit and cannibalize or install it complete, others permanently fix the door in position with a wire hooked into it from above.

    I'd be interested to hear what your dealer says.
  • Picked up Blue Rubi yesterday. Our sales lady had four wranglers on order. Only ours was made before the shutdown. Three customers cancelled because of the shutdown caused by the money boys. You three and others have our sympathy. Better_Half got a little teary eyed as she found our build sheet with dates of 4/27 and 4/28 and wondered what the assembly line workers were going through and what would happen a few days later. I have experienced the closing doors more than once up north. This is the fourth time a Chrysler product was tried (1967,1977, 2005) and hopefully it will be successful this time. Right now it feels better than the last attempt with the CRD. It's a jeep thing, and so far, much better than expected.
  • james1bojames1bo Posts: 1
    Trying to diagnose a 2002 Wrangler with the 4.0 engine. Issue is a tapping noise which is audible throughout the engine compartment. It more pronounced in the front of the engine. or from under the valve cover,,, but I believe that the 4.0 has solid lifters??? Possibly the serpentine Belt Tensioner??? Has 90K original on it....
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    It more pronounced in the front of the engine. or from under the valve cover,,, but I believe that the 4.0 has solid lifters?

    No, hydraulic. That noise is not uncommon and is most likely a lifter or a fuel injector.
  • What is it with jeeps and gear lube. Our CRD had an aluminum front dif with clean lube from the factory. Trailer hitch pkg and the rear dif had dirty dino. Fast forward to 2009 Rubicon. First hot day after ownership and she burped gear lube from the vent down and over the axle tube. Redline arrived today. Front dif poured lube out of the fill hole but was relatively brand new synthetic. Now the rear dif, again trailer pkg, and ditto dirty dino. Go figure.

    A hummer forum was commenting about even the mighty front d44 can be broken. We all know about the cracked axle tubes. There are preventatives for those who have to have lifts, 35's and higher and see how far they can go with their bf's before they break something. But with the jk you don't have to engineer anything, others have already figured it out.

    Want to thank those with H's and JK's who break things so the rest of us know the limits and what to do if we care to follow. However, for a few more dollars than the GM extended short warranty and high deductible, we got the smallest deductible (not zero) and lifetime max warranty. If Blue Rubi doesn't get busted up, we can continue to drive it anytime anywhere without the worry about years and miles. I will give it the best that is appropriate like Valvoline Syn no sooner than at 5k miles on the odometer. Good lubes and then enjoy the ride. Only changes have been the mopar 7pin trailer wiring kit (dealership installed and four pin harness in my new parts bin) and a rock hard cannister armor from the dealer (They ordered it to have a look at it and I bought it as soon as it came in.)

    1400 miles now and valvoline dino and redline gear lube and no water leaks and continue to have that sports car fun feeling. Yes, doing the wave and like one of the screamin lizard's said, do the wave and if they don't wave back so what. Only problem is that there seems to be a lot of jk's tj's etc out here lately and some days the arm and hand get a workout.
  • devo3386devo3386 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to prgram the keyless entry so that:

    1. The horn does not sound when the car is locked.
    2. The headlights do not turn on when the car is unlocked.

    Thanks.
  • I took a 2009 Jeep Wrangler X 4WD SUV out of the dealership the other day and drove it all around Baltimore. I owned a Jeep Sport from 2000-2003. My next car will be a Jeep Wrangler. I want to get involved in off roading. What are some of the first steps to take to make the wrangler off-road ready?

    ">link title
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    My next car will be a Jeep Wrangler.

    It's not a car. ;)

    What are some of the first steps to take to make the wrangler off-road ready?

    It's already offroad ready, and with all due respect, a lot more so than you probably are or you wouldn't be asking.

    Much depends on what you want to do and over what type of terrain. Even on fairly mild trails the learning curve can be pretty steep. Do remember that bigger tires and a lifted suspension may improve the Jeep's capabilities offroad (though with trade-offs on the highway), but they won't improve your driving skills at all. In fact they usually just enable you to get stuck or to fall over in a more dramatic way!

    Your first purchases should be a fire extinguisher, tow strap, and First Aid kit, and don't go offroad with them on your own (it's tough using that tow strap without another vehicle to attach it to :cry: ).

    Next, think about improved underbody protection; skid plates, rocker protection, stronger bumpers, etc.
    Finally, if you want a nice toy to bolt on, you might think about a winch. However, initially you'll probably only use it to pull your buddy out. Until you really know what you're doing, you rarely want to pull yourself deeper into whatever got you stuck.
    Remember that he best winch for your recovery is almost always attached to the vehicle behind you. :)
  • jptjjptj Posts: 53
    My 98 TJ (Eugene) turned over the 300k mark today. I have replace or repaired (other than regular maintenance brakes, plugs, etc.) Are the Rotors, Radiator, A/C leak/Compressor, Alternator @250K (Mac you called this one) and the Rear Transmission seal.
    Life is good,
    Walt :)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    For Wranglers that are well maintained and driven with understanding that's not unusual.
    I normally say 150 - 250K miles before even needing to think about an engine overhaul; 300K is excellent.

    Congratulations, what a value! :)
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Okay, I"ve adjusted my steering gear a bit, but it is still loose. With Dan likely driving this for a while, I want to make sure the steering is up to par.

    What are my options for a decent repair w/o breaking the bank? 98 Durango steering box seems like my best bet (with or without snow plow option - affects turns to lock) or is there something else I can do? I THINK I can get one from Adv Auto for about 188 with 125 core.

    Keep in mind I'm trying to keep this somewhat reasonable in price.

    Mac, any input?

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    When you can't adjust it any more it's time for a rebuild or replacement. :sick:
    You can rebuild it yourself, but parts can be a problem.

    NAPA, Advance, Autozone will be the best price option for an exchange unit and are all around the same price at a little under $200, with the Snow Plough option being another $50 or so.
    Core charges vary but are immaterial unless you intend to keep you original box.

    I suppose you could look for something secondhand, but steering and brakes are something I prefer to go new on.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I was looking at the PSC SG621M. Basically a beefier version of a Durango box with a Hummer H1 housing. Also looking at the AGR SB2 as possible options. Most AdvAuto and such boxes are remanufactured, so I was hesitant about that crap shoot. The PSC is 345 from Q-tec so about double the price.

    Since my son will be driving it for a while around town, I want the steering fixed (a bit too loose now).

    -Paul
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    A PSC SG621M should last you virtually for ever with your setup and is obviously the ultimate of the options you list. I don't have any direct experience of it except in the H1, where it's adequate for the application though not over specified.
    If you go that route you might want to get it ported with blanking plugs in case you ever want to go with cylinder assist in the future.

    I've heard about too many problems with AGR to want to recommend them, though to be fair it's mainly been with their modified pumps.

    Reman vs new? In theory new should be better but I've had and seen mixed experiences of good and bad with both. If you think that new components will always be better, ask yourself why new cars come with a warranty. ;)

    Best value would probably be the Durango Snow unit if you can return your old box as the core.

    I understand what you say about your son driving, but the steering and braking should really be 100% regardless of who's in the left seat.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Mac I hear on the 100% thing. I'm just used to how it drives. He's not. If it were me as the only driver, I wouldn't be AS concerned. Your comments are the first I've heard about AGR being a possible problem.

    PSC makes the SG621MR with the ports for hydro assist, but I don't plan on going that route with this TJ. 33's is it with moderate wheeling.

    The Durango with snow option is 165 from AdvAuto (with core). The PSC is 335 shipped to my door from a 4x4 shop. Do you think it'll hold up sufficiently with 33x12.5's for onroad and offroad use and give me back responsive steering and minimized that dead spot in the middle? THAT is ultimately what I'm trying to take care of. When I have to make a huge steering adjustment just to keep the TJ straight or to follow a slight bend in the road, something ain't right.

    I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it. If I get one and it sucks, I'll return with the lifetime warranty and go for a PSC.

    The brakes I'm not worried about. I can lock them up if I need to, but the 2.5L is slow enough that it isn't a concern! ;)

    I have checked the linkages in the components underneath and they are all rock solid (JKS trackbar and ZJ tierod (new ends) and NO undue motion in ANY joint).

    -Paul
  • elbbirpelbbirp Posts: 2
    This may be too basic of a question for this forum, but I'm in the process of replacing a cracked cylinder head, and decided to remove the oil pan first and check some bearings to see if they have been damaged by running with coolant in the oil. On my 2000 the exhaust wraps around the rear shallow part of the oil pan, so I proceeded to take the exhaust pipe connections loose from the exhaust manifold. This is where I'm stuck. I'm by no means a mechanic, but turned quite a few wrenches in my younger days, but it has been awhile. The exhaust pipe flanges are held on with 2 bolts that thread into 2 nuts on the back side of the flange. The nuts are some sort of flange nuts with a plate welded to the nut. The plate contacts the exhaust manifold when you turn the bolt, holding the nut stationary in order to remove the bolt. The problem I'm having is that after getting the bolts loose, the nut can ride up to a spot where the plate is free of the exhaust manifold, and turns freely when you try to loosen the bolt further. The spot welds on the nut prevent getting any sort of good bite on the nut with a wrench. Has anyone had the same problem? Do you have any secrets to disassembly, other than cutting torch?
    Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I trust your word on these kinds of things and if you think a reman unit will work for my needs, then I'll trust it.

    Ah, you're trying to put me on the spot! :P

    1: Any of the choices even a standard TJ unit, if properly built, will give responsive steering with no central dead spot
    2: For a small improvement in performance and minimal cost the reman Dakota SP box is probably the best short term value.
    3: The PSC would be my choice because it's overbuilt for a standard or minimally modified Jeep, and I'll be keeping mine forever.

    However, my choices may not be the best for you, and it would also be possible to get a perfect reman from Advance and bad unit from PSC (and vice versa), so there's no perfect solution..

    If you have five minutes to spare take a look at this AMG promo to see the kind of loads and stresses the PSC box is expected to withstand.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Do you have any secrets to disassembly, other than cutting torch?

    I don't remember having that problem but can't you either push or pull the nut/flange assembly back down to the point where the flange will catch again and allow you to continue undoing the bolt?
    Alternatively, is it possible to jamb the nut with a screwdriver/chisel/small rodent?
    Just about anything would work as long as it's not your finger. ;)
    Final option is to cut the bolts and spring for a pair of new ones. You should be able to salvage the nuts after removal.

    Have fun removing the pan, it's a fiddly job. It'll be easier if you raise the engine by releasing the mounts and inserting a couple of small wood blocks to support it.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Not trying to put you on the spot. Your posts show you know your stuff. :)

    Any more information on the Dakota SP box? Define short term value. :)

    I plan to keep this thing for a while longer, even with the mileage it currently has.

    Any plans to get rid of your H1? Would love to see more pics of it. My wife is still wanting one of those originals. :) She wants to run over people.

    -Paul
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