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Jeep Wrangler



  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Is this another tease or the protype of a new rubicon?

    Jeep should be ashamed. Compared to previous beautifully fabricated prototypes, this one looks like it was thrown together by a couple of interns during their lunch break.


    Now look at the 'Lower Forty', the 'Hurricane', and the 'Gladiator' concepts. These were concepts that demonstrated the design and fabrication skills available to Jeep at the time.
    The Immortal looks like a JK that had a bunch of assorted 'off the shelf 'parts just thrown at it to see what might stick.
    Not even any thought of keeping it street legal! I can't believe Chrysler sanctioned putting the Mopar 'M' on the side.



  • Thanks for the pictures and the education. Hummer played with the H4concepts. Raptor has a waiting line of farmers/ranchers. All the advanced designs can be had right now by those with six figures to throw at it. I would be happy with the portals, 3.21 gears?, 35's, factory hemi/old pushrod, good strong axles and suspension, fenders, and a bumper/ winch option. I would not have to spend time and extra money selling factory buying aftermarket and fixing and fixing.

    I believe at least here in Texas, trucks are bought if a truck is wanted/needed. Who really wants an H3T. And wasn't there a Commanche? cherokee truck?

    Didn't the shootout by a base fj and a rubicon in Petersen's? mention an $8,000 price advantage of the fj. I believe our $36k rubicon sticker was high (for just good enough pieces) but they did give it back with invoice, $7.5k which included zero interest for 3yrs, and lifetime powertrain, but we also did buy that lifetime everything warranty.

    In essence, I guess I am saying the factory, through whatever group name svt etc, can bring that money home to the bottom line and we get a superior product. True hardcore can build up beaters or spend their affluence. Waiting to see if a steel roof or non folding windshield(why anyway for the majority) is coming via rollover testing.

    I hope they give us both what we want.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    Even Ed talked about gm marketing today.

    Now for the fun stuff. Kept getting Sirius letters when first year was running out. Called a few times asking for a better deal. Don't really need it, mygig just has the nav on it, but Sirius would not seem so bad if they could get under that three digit cost per year. Even offered ninrty-nine. No. Good bye. Now comes a letter for seventy-seven. Tempting (better_half says to do it), but can switch from fm to mp3 (don't even have an ipod) but have the option to talk with better_half or just let my brain work on things with the music off.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    Showed up for my hayden install wednesday morning and no hayden. His supplier said he was out. Thank you so much. Internet printout in hand, O'reilly's sold me the Hayden 679 for ~$60. Ordered the jeep kit for the high pressure hose 2 barbed ftgs and clamps $11. Bought some extra tranny hose at napa (1/32" over id) and clerk says your rubicon should've been recalled like mine was months ago. Told him ours was an '09.

    Called local dealer, our dealer was eliminated, got a nice guy (guy friday named Jason) who said how could he the '09's were just recalled yesterday and it is four pages. But no mention of a cooler. Seems that they turn on the dash hot tranny light and possibly kick on the fan at a lower temp. Got to go for the warranty.

    Tranny still lets you know when the fluid is getting there. Adam at The Tribe 4x4 and I will spend monday morning together.
  • Another forum post about a squeek in the center stack. The answer was given. We had the irritating plastic squeek also, so guessing we are not alone. Before you tear up the dash, ours was outside just like one of the answers provided.

    Open the hood, notice the two plastic braces for the cowling in front of the wiper motor. Our push pin on the driver side had popped up. Pushed it back in and squeek has been silenced. If it continues, might bolt it down or spray gm super lube on it like did on the foam of the h3 to stop the squeek from the movement of the heater tubes on the dried out foam in the firewall.
  • No not about the internet but follow through while the iron is hot. Love redline products, wish I had so when owned the previa instead of all the M1 through the motor and tranny. Should've redlined the jk from day one. Should have read the manual better and installed a tranny cooler.

    Tribe 4x4 just installed my hayden with the extra hose and ftgs. Bought an extra bag of ties. Opened the box at the store and possibly lost one retaining plate or one was missing. Anyway, cooler installed in the middle, 3+ qts drained. 3+ qts added, engine run, 3+ qts drained and 3+ qts installed. Drove great

    Swung by the GV dealer and luckily the advisor that I've talked too but never used was back from the Biker's ride in Austin. At least he rides a Hog if not owning a JK. Funny, the flash for the tranny is listed but the - inspect fender liner wasn't.
  • btill1btill1 Posts: 69
    I am new to Jeeps I purchased a 2010 2 door Wrangler in March. I love the vehicle but I would like to have more power what is the best way to accomplish this? Should I add a K&N Air Intake or are there better options?

  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 14,092
    You'll be extremely lucky to see a 5 bhp increase with any aftermarket intake. Modern naturally aspirated engines don't leave much -if any- power on the table.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • The plastic brace had a little intermittent squeek only audible if the environment was quiet. gm superlube running low. Found an old pump bottle of duralube (free sample?), the push pin hadn't lifted but easily moved side to side. Sprayed the top of the push pin and its' base and complete silence.

    Secondly, hey mopar put a cooler in that challenger and put some redline c+ in for fluid and quit this chrysler turning engine power into tranny heat and not hp at the rear wheel. With that burnt hot mopar fluid our around town mileage was indicated 14.7 and dropping. Now with the cooler and redline (don't think that j30 flash is responsible) running average dash display tonight is up to 16.6 and probably still climbing. Conditions here the same for some time hot windy drought - wish some of that rain had dropped here and spared others.
  • akcijasakcijas Posts: 13
    How about buying a performance chip? I've never used one, but a friend has and said he noticed the difference. Here's a website that carries them, but there are several:

    Anyone ever use one ?
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 14,092
    edited June 2010
    Naturally aspirated cars built prior to 1996 can sometimes gain 10-25 bhp from a performance chip. Cars built after 1995 don't have a replaceable chip- the ECU either has to be reprogrammed or else "tricked" by adding a "piggyback" computer(not a good solution in my opinion). You'll be lucky to find 8-10 bhp in any case, and you'll most likely need to use premium fuel. The site you linked to is loaded with worthless junk. If you want to try reprogramming I recommend a Hypertech or Superchips unit.

    Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2014 M235i; 2009 Cooper Clubman; 1999 Wrangler; 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    If you're wanting a fast car, you shouldn't have bought a Wrangler. :) If you're wanting more power to the wheels, regearing is an option, especially if you'll use it offroad.

    These thing are bricks on the road, even the new JK's. You want power, get a Grand Cherokee with the hemi. My TJ tops at about 80 mph going downhill and that is as fast as I'd care to take it.

  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited June 2010
    More power to do what.
    Climb the rockies, burn up good rubber at a drag strip.
    2010 2dr. Is it 2 or 4 wd, stick or auto, gear ratio.
    2 dr for rockcrawling or another reason. Did you drive an unlimited.
    The unlimited automatic rubicon can pull out without clogging up the highway.
    The unlimited automatic rubicon on the interstate (when tranny is cool and not climbing the rockies) can keep up with our bigger brothers, even through some twisties even climbing and turning them. Trucks from the factory are usually limited to 96mph for reasons. Rubicon mudders have a 99mph rating.
    Windows down last night (92 degrees on dash) back roads coming home from north dallas, no squeek, old mp3's - good feeling.

    Keep the factory intake for now - watch fordings to prevent hydrolock, keep stock restrictive muffler - some say that's the source of some torque. Another forum praises the flashpaq.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Should I add a K&N Air Intake or are there better options?

    The K&N filter allows more air to pass through it than an original filter by increasing the particulate size it allows through. In other words, it allows more dirt into your engine.

    What kind of performance increase are you looking for? Hard to imagine you want a higher top end so I'd guess it's better acceleration you want.
    This is easily achieved by changing the gearing in the axles (go to a higher number ratio), and don't forget to have the speedo corrected.
    You'll increase your acceleration throughout the rev range, not just at the top, and by an amount that will be very apparent, although you will lose a little top end speed.
    If you want to actually increase the power of the engine for some reason, as opposed to the performance of the vehicle, then supercharging or turbocharging are your major options.

    There is no quick chip fix either, just think snake oil. If there was something so cheap and simple don't you think vehicle manufacturers would already be using it?
  • Sorry if I led anyone astray. Late yesterday in this heat it started up again.
    Just put a rubber washer between the base and the sheet metal to try a temp fix. Pulled out the cd for a look see at removing the cowling. Probably the right thing to do but not today.
  • Stopped by Tribe 4X4 and Adam just got his first plates from the machine shop. Even though he was buried in work, somewhow I got him to open the plates (bare steel not even finished). I got the first install of of a plate that fixes the tranny cooler to cross braces in front of and off of the ac cooler. Yeah 2009 with warranty on top of warranty but who wants to waste gas and get less performance and then maybe get something fixed in the future. 18K+ miles and first tranny hiccup was this summer at about 16K miles. Met a 2009 JK with 6K wondering why I bothered. He'll find out later this year or next summer. Got the J31 in the mail today. Been there did that already.
  • budhansenbudhansen Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my '06 and my Jeep dealer checked everything and fount no problems. They thought the problem was with the Goodyear Wrangler GS-A original tires and suggested I try another brand. Good luck!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    "New acoustic dampening for the Wrangler and Unlimited models and a solid, removable hard top, should make this Jeep downright tolerable on the highway."

    Revealed: 2011 Jeep Wrangler and Jeep Wrangler Sahara (Straightline)

  • I need to start researching this info myself as many garages and dealerships do not have the answers to my questions. These are misc Q's that I have been trying to answer.

    1. Need suggestions for wheels and tire package deal for the winter - I have a nice set on and plan to switch over to a nice set for winter, as east coast winters are rough. I would like to spend 1200 or less.

    2. My gas pedal (ever since I got the jeep at 60k, (now at 68 k) is loose-- it has a lot of play in it and I am so sick of this already (have only had it for 5 months).
    The last jeep wrangler I had was a 97 and it was not this way.
    I cannot accelerate and go over a bump -smooth or not - the jeep will jerk and make a lot of noise in the front. It is powerful and wants to go and I think this also causes it to jerk even more. When I press on the pedal, I have to take my foot off when I am going over certain things, so this doesn't happen, but then when I step on it again, it still jerks. Sometimes I get to the point where it chugs unless I come to a stop and accelerate again.
    It seems so wrong, and so bad for the jeep. UGH! I was told it is not adjustable, and that is all I have been able to find out so far. I feel like I am ruining this jeep and I want to do something about this. I plan to have it for a long time and feel like it should be in its new stages still.

    3. The front end seems to be loose. I cannot put my finger on what is exactly happening or when, but it doesn't feel tight anymore and feels unsafe when I take turns at higher speeds. Where should I start...or what do I tell my just seems like they think i am crazzzy, but this is all happening.

    4. Tune Up - What should I be sure is done on the wrangler, and how many x a year?

    5. The Soft Top Black Straps have snapped off the bolts that hold them to frame. It doesn't seem like they do that much though. Any suggestions on how to fix or if I need to? Unsure why this happened, unless I am putting the top on wrong.

    6. Grime/Dirt in the front rims - consistently. It comes back within 2-3 days after I wash it :( The rims are really nice and it looks so bad! What could be causing this?

    If you can answer any of these questions, I would appreciate any suggestions, feedback or recommendations!
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    1. Personal preference there. I run TrXuS Mud Terrains on stock wheels and love em.
    2. Not sure, but wonder if it was regeared to a numerically higher, which can cause that if you're not used to it. Mine was regeared to 4.88 and it took some getting used to.
    3. Not uncommon if you've lifted the Jeep or it was already lifted. Mine felt squirrely at higher speeds and rather nervous on 2 lane roads with ditches on either side. Putting on adjustable lower control arms in front to fix my castor angle (how the axle is rotated) helped IMMENSELY. It no longer feels squirrely at all.
    4. plugs, wires, distributor cap (if you have one) are all things you can do yourself with a good manual. Mac may have more information. Changing fluids (differentials, transmission, transfer case) on a regular basis is good too. If you bought it used, I'd go ahead and do it so you KNOW when it was done. Radiator flush/fill isn't a bad thing either.
    5. Bestop sells a replacement Replace-a-Top made with sailcloth that is just great!!! If you want to go without the soft top hardware (frame), go with a Viking Fastback top. About the same price.
    6. That grime is likely brake dust. Mine do that too, but not that quickly. A check of the brake pads may be worthwhile to ensure they are still good and not needing replacement. EBC Yellow or Greenstuff pads are a great replacement.

  • daddybdaddyb Posts: 1
    recently had an engine fire on my 1990 YJ, 4.2. got the replacement harness and have it 90% installed but have run into a bit of a snag. there are 2 connections bolted to the fire wall just below and slightly to the side of the battery tray. I am looking to find some pictures of the firewall area that show these items so I can go to the parts store and refer to them to buy new ones. any idea where I can find pictures/ diagrams of this area and or wiring schematics? they appear to be some sort of a relay and / grounding block.
  • I have the nav/radio in my 2010 wrangler. In the top far right corner there is an icon that looks like 3 cars stacked together. It usually is green. This weekend it turned amber.

    Anyone know what it represents; and why it changed colors? I cannot find any reference to it anywhere. Everything still works fine. It's just a curiosity.

  • Just found out that the stacked car icon in the top right corner represents Sirius Traffic subscription status. Green = active, Amber = not active.

    I had renewed my Sirius subscription, but dropped the traffic provision.

    Mystery solved by my dealer's service writer.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Posts: 710
    edited October 2010
    Yes, replying to myself. Take it for what it is.
    Started back on other forums from the beginning of JK posts.
    February 2007 a poster, paraphrasing, explained his taping of the bottom of the cowling and the fingers of the plastic grid in the firewall. Other posts mentioned thank you big time squeek was driving them nuts. And then a remark that it took away 98% of the squeek. Posts continued in same thread into 2008 and more thanks. One post mentioned their squeek was the a/c lines going into the firewall, kinda like heater lines going thru the firewall on the H3's.

    Spent way too much time to get it right, almost as bad as a crd problem. Second attempt was strong double sided adhesive on grey replacement squares for some old furniture glides/bottoms. Squeek gone again for 98%. Bought gm body plastic rivets from pepboy's and o'reilly's for those mopar push pins after buying a box of those pushpins from pepboys.

    April 2009 build and got the squeek. First builds had the squeek.
    Today realized that the foam had lifted up the plastic grill with the 1st and 2nd attempt and noticed that the grill was in tension because the wiper motor top was cutting into three cross grids on the plastic grill. Snipped those out but still had that elusive 2% squeek. It was the a/c lines going thru the firewall. Had noticed the powder was rubbed off the a/c line and the hood heat pad was being worn.

    23K+ miles and front has been feeling not as solid/clunky running I-35, today feels like that steering shaft clunk. Guess I should've shoved grease inside of the boot or wait for what one poster said fixed him for now, "a new shaft and a bearing". Maybe wait for that aftermarket fix.

    On a side note, noticed in car and driver for november (one of those almost give away subscriptions), they compared the new jeep to three other vehicles. To me looking at 0-60 times, allowing for its extra weight over the competition, the jeep didn't seem to reflect a hemi under the hood (but the gas mileage did). Even though it won, they would buy the toyota.
  • I am in the market for a Jeep Wrangler/CJ....etc as a secondary weekend vehicle. Any suggestions for what I could get for $5,000? Are there some that are easier to repair than others? Should I get the newest possible or is it all about millage? Basically, if you were me, what would you buy? Thanks.

    - Will
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The TJ arrived in 1997 and by the 1998.5 model year most of the bugs had been worked out. It's easily identified by the HVAC controls which are rotary, compared to the earlier cable operated slide action.

    Look for anything from '98.5 onward in as close to original condition as possible, and that hasn't been heavily offroaded. Choosing the 4.0 I6 over the 2.5 I4 is a no brainer as they both get similar mileage and the 4.0 can be expected to live to at least 200K miles.

    The earlier YJ and CJ models are harder to find parts for and are more rust prone than the TJ, but the biggest difference is the suspension, leaf springs on the YJ and CJ, coils on the TJ. The difference is night and day.

    Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    If you live in or near DC and have had fuel spitback issues with your car, please email [email protected] before Monday, February 28, 2011 to be interviewed by a reporter. Please include your daytime contact information and the year, make and model of your car.
  • 98 Wrangler with 153,000 miles, stock suspension. I put a set of basic NAPA shocks on it and they were no better than the worn out factory ones I took off. It is strictly a street vehicle, mostly around town, some highway. I have always heard Bilsteins were the best, but I sort of hate to buy such expensive shocks for a high mileage Jeep. Any brand anyone can recommend that is cheaper than Bilstein but is still a good shock? I did a search of this and maintenance and repair forum and did not find recommendations. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Either you had a faulty set of NAPA shocks or your originals weren't as worn out as you thought they were. ;)

    I've been very happy with the OME (Old Man Emu) shocks that I fitted to my '99 over 100K miles ago. Still going strong!
  • Mac24 is the pro so I would listen to him, but my take is: I replaced my shocks w/ Bilsteins, and they were fine, but what *really* made the difference was replacing my OEM steering stabilizer w/ a Rancho Steering Stabilizer. Made all the difference in the world in handling. And it was pretty affordable too ($75?).


  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    I love my OME's as well. Mine sees offroad action, but the onroad handling is very nice!

  • just bought a 97 wrangler. Brought it hime and the check engine light came on the next day. Then the airbag light came on, hmmmm. Then the whole instrument panel went first RPM, then MPH, finally the whole shabang except the odemeter. My guess is that in the detailing of the vehicle someone got a little over excited with the pressure washer and got water where water has difficulty getting to. i had shut off the truck and later turned it on. Alls back to normal except the check engine light. It runs a little rough and is fairly gutless going up hills. checked the oil and some 13 year old filled it over. my guess is this does not help with gutless problem.
    Would love to here more from the pros. ThanX
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The light indicates that the PCM is holding one or more trouble codes.
    The codes on the '97 are a little different to later models, but are displayed by flashing of the MIL and can also be read from the odometer. Read the code/s and post them here.

    To determine which Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) are stored in the PCM of your '97 TJ:
    Turn the ignition key to the "On" position three times in succession (i.e., On, Off, On, Off, On), within five seconds
    The Malfunction Indicator (Check Engine) Lamp will flash the appropriate number of times to indicate the DTC number, with a short pause between the first and second digits (e.g., 2 flashes of the MIL, followed by a short pause, followed by 5 more flashes, indicates error code 25)
    The appropriate DTC will also be displayed in the odometer window
    Note: All DTCs consist of 2 digits. If more than one DTC is stored in the PCM's memory, the procedure above will display all codes in succession. Regardless of how many codes are stored, Code 55 will always be the final code to be displayed. Code 55 indicates the "completion of the fault code display on the Check Engine Lamp".
  • redrocker15redrocker15 Posts: 102
    I have been terribly reticent in my posting/lurking here. this has been one of the most fabulous groups of Wrangler owners ever! Mtngal? TSJay? Mac24 & ericPL (thanks to God you're both still active here!). I've not owned a Wrangler since I let my '98SE go to a neighbor's friend; but those Wrangerless days are numbered! I do recall all the fun posts we shared in days of yore, and Mac & Eric's (OK, and Tom's) words of wisdom. I shall return! With a replacement Wrangler! I sooooooo miss Eugene!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Glad you're still around and haven't lost your Wrangler lust, even if you don't currently own one.

    If you've been lurking I expect you remember how the forum was changed some time ago from a loose knit discussion under the one heading 'Jeep Wrangler', to a whole bunch of separate threads, one for each question that was asked.
    The camaradarie and chat have gone, along with many of the regular posters, and it's now just a Q&A forum.
    Ericpl and I are the only ones from the past that appear with any regularity; in fact we're the only ones that appear with any regularity period!

    To be honest I mostly come here to answer questions just to keep my knowledge fresh, a 'use it or lose it' attitude; it used to be fun, now it's just mental exercise.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Yep, sure is good to be regular!

    Wait, that didn't sound right!

    I still have Kermit, but he has gone through a few changes over the years when I bought it at Edwards AFB in 2003. Gas prices are making it tough, but fortunately, there's a GREAT OHV area about 1 hr from my house. The places Extreme 4x4 uses for their show are also an hour away.

    With my Master's program done (YAY!), I now have more time to work on the Jeep. Now if it would only warm up a bit more and not have severe storms every other day, I'd be happy!

    Mac is, by far, still the expert, but Kermit has given me challenges and work to do! Kermit is, after all, 14 years old (97 TJ SE).

  • Was going to let my cheap magazine subscriptions lapse, but.
    Don't remember and didn't write anything down. Petersens, Off-road, (JP?).
    One mag has new glossy thick pages.

    Remembered reading (letter to ed?) about 5x5.5 wheel nut pattern and hard to find wheels.
    Then read about the J8 military wrangler using that pattern.

    Remembered reading about CJD unitbearings versus ones used by GM and Ford. Apparently the CJD failure can result in wheel coming off the vehicle, like Liberty ball joint failure. Again, in this J8 write-up they mention an improved unitbearing that keeps the wheel on the vehicle.

    Always wondered why the wrangler doesn't follow the wheel:tire height off roaders ratio suggestion. Just thought most? JK's had small sidewalls for us on the interstate who keep up with the big boys. Then the J8 story went on to say the J8 had improved calipers that required going to a seventeen inch wheel.

    The mags were bought cheap. Should opt for the online version. Renewals are coming constantly in the mail and by email. Guess I'll throw my pennies at them to keep their advertising revenues.
  • Ok, I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport, 4.0L, 6cyl, Automatic , 130K miles

    This is what it's doing...

    Crank it up in the morning and I usually let it warm up for a few minutes. Put it in reverse, back up , brake and shift to Drive, let off of the brake and it either dies or jumps and struggles to go. And while going into 2nd gear you can hear it kind of rev*(sp) up high and then it goes on into 3rd gear as you gain speed ,but once you get onto the highway and continue at the normal speed (55+) for a while its fine.

    Next, during the first 10-15 minutes of driving. You come to a red light, so holding the break while at the red light . It will start jumping , as if it's trying to go on its on. But after driving for say, 20+ minutes it won't do that.

    Also, sometimes when making a turn , lets just say onto another street (regular 90 degree turn ) you can hear it kind of rev up when straightening back up out of the turn . It's like it kind of hesitates in mid turn.

    And after driving it for a while it wont do it when you crank it back up and go again. (Warmed up I suppose)

    Also, the engine light has periodically come on and gone off over the last 4 years.

    It has mostly been sitting for the past 1 1/2 -2 years as I am driving a different vehicle. And I have not taken it anywhere to have it checked on either. But it has been doing this for the past 3 years , so the sitting up part has nothing to do with it.

    Any information , thoughts , insight would really help me out!!
  • My beloved Ruby threw a rod this last weekend with 190K miles on it.


    It has a soft top with full basket cargo rack.

    I was looking to sell it to someone as a project or parts car.

    Any suggestions as to value. Overall, it's in good shape.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Also, the engine light has periodically come on and gone off over the last 4 years.

    Have the computer codes read, which should help in starting to diagnose the problems.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited March 2011
    Any suggestions as to value. Overall, it's in good shape.

    If you were soflshane I'd come and take a look!

    As a rule of thumb, it'll be worth what it normally would be in your part of the country, less [(the cost of a replacement engine or long block) + (the cost of the labor to install it) + ( 10-20% of the total)].
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    edited May 2011
    I've been doing a lot of reading about the Jeep Wrangler over the past few months. I've been wanting a Wrangler for years and I'm finally at the point where I can buy me one.

    But I am just awestruck at all of the negative information I have found on various blogs/forums. I'm awestruck because if it's all true then I can't believe Chrysler doesn't address the issues.

    I read about owners getting 3 and 4 transmissions in less than 50K miles. I read about sway bars going out. I read about sensors constantly going out. I read about transmissions overheating. I read about 100s of recalls on them. I mean really the list is just endless. It's as if the Wrangler is some kind of piece of junk!

    Can someone here possibly give me an honest assessment of the Wrangler? Is this vehicle truly as sorry as I keep reading? FOR EX: Are my odds of having to replace the transmission multiple times really as high as I keep reading? Are these maintenance issues I read about -- if they are even all true -- due to off-roading abuse or is it just a very poor Chrysler product? Also does putting lift kits and wide tires cause the problems OR are the problems (again, if they exist) just inherent in the Wrangler no matter what?

    I'd just like to know the honest story about the Wrangler's mechanical reliability before sinking money into one. My use for this vehicle will be mostly highway (yes I know about its horrific gas mileage) and the only time it'll be off road will be to pull my jonboat to a boat ramp for offloading at a lake.
  • jdr818jdr818 Posts: 7
    I can only tell you about my experience with my 2001 Wrangler SE which I bought new. I have to say I'm surprised about all the negative reports as well. Quite honestly, it's been the most reliable car I've ever owned.

    I have had two additional radiators installed (my mechanic told me that these days, aftermarket radiators are largely plastic so they don't last - I verified this with some of my own research afterwards). Other than this, I've done NOTHING major to it. The usual brakes, shocks, tires.

    I also have a friend with another 2001 which he bought used a few years ago. He hasn't had any major problems with it other than what he expected due to the large amount of off-roading he does.

    Perhaps you should look for an older model year Wrangler?

    Good luck!
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The model prior to the current JK, the TJ model, was probably the best designed and best built Wrangler ever made.
    It was at the end of the TJ production that Chrysler and the other big auto companies started to have huge financial issues.
    In Chrysler's case it ended with the company being bought out by Cerebus along with other investors in '07.

    The whole company was massively reorganized and the Chrysler Jeep that builds Wranglers now is very different to the old one.
    While not perfect, the previous TJ design was a good one, early teething troubles were ironed out in the first year and a half, and quality control was by and large very good.

    However IMO, the JK has a flawed design which allows some vehicles to experience 'death wobble' straight from the showroom floor.
    There have been huge problems with leaking hardtops which have basically been ignored by Jeep, leaving it to dealers to try to fix it however they thought best.
    Quality control on the manual transmissions can be described as horrible at best.

    The latest JKs look pretty, and are loaded with all the electronic systems you could imagine, but with the basic design and QC as it is, it counts for little.

    My TJ Sahara is 12 years old, and if the current JK lived up to the promise of its appearance and specification I'd trade up in a heartbeat.

    However, my TJ has never been off the road due to a breakdown. It's serviced by the book and apart from a new radiator, any parts requiring replacement (a seal, a bearing, a wheel cylinder etc.) have all been minor.

    Looks like I'll be driving the TJ for a few more years yet. :)

    That said, not all JKs are lemons, and of course you do have a warranty, just go in with your eyes open if you do decide to buy one.
  • btill1btill1 Posts: 69
    I purchased a new 2010 in March of 2010 it is a little over 1 year old. I use it as a third car so it has about 11,500 miles on it currently. I have had zero problems with it and it was amazing in the snow of the northeast this year. Good luck with your decision.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    jdr818- interesting about the older model year wrangler suggestion. I've had a bunch of people tell me I should look for a 4.0L engine model.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    mac24 - Interesting thoughts on Cerebus. I had forgotten about that. And the interesting thing is it seems the 2007-2009 models are the worst in terms of mechanical issues I've read about. Though I have read some 2010 models being bad too. The transmission seems to be the monster issue. Which seems insane to me because it's not like a transmission is some new technological device they've added on.

    Do you think the Wrangler's automatic transmission is better built and more reliable?

    Also do you think the off-road abuse is a major contributor to these issues or is it just poor QC? I just want to know if I treat the vehicle better (do the required maint and not abuse it off-road) if it'll hold up better. But if I'm going to be replacing transmissions every 6K even if I'm treating it right then I will have to definitely change my mind about my purchase.
  • william07william07 Posts: 4
    btill1- do you have a manual or an automatic? Just curious.

    Seems like people who have a bad one seem to have a bad one right out the gate of the dealer. And the ones who have a good one seem to have a tank that won't stop. What im trying to figure out is how many are falling in each respective group because if 3 or 4 out of 5 Wranglers have serious issues then that's too high.

    Also did you put bigger tires/lift kit on yours?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The ATs certainly have fewer issues than the manuals.
    However, the manuals aren't a bad design, far from it.
    When you get a vehicle that has serial transmission failures in quick succession it's either a QC issue or an operator problem.

    When it comes to 'death wobble' and leaking hardtops though, the occurances are so numerous that it can't palmed off on QC, it's absolutely a design issue.

    If you want the best chance of reliable Wrangler, I'd look for a low mileage, late model, properly serviced, 4.0 TJ street queen in original trim.

    If you want a JK, I'd go for an automatic soft top with a reputable extended warranty.
  • busman01busman01 Posts: 46
    edited May 2011
    I purchased my 2010 Sahara new in Sept 2010. The only problem I had was with the transmission popping out of 1st gear.

    The dealer replaced the 1st gear synchronizer per a TSB and I haven't had a problem since.

    I upsized the tires on the original wheels and have never experienced the "wobble".

    After nearly two years of rain and washes, my hardtop has never leaked. The nav/sat/radio is great. I recommend the heated seats for really cold days.

    Overall, no complaints. The Jeep performs as only a Jeep can.

    I have all the bells and whistles and everything performs flawlessly.

    I would purchase another one
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