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Towing tips for SUVs
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certainly, something they all put in the towing package is extra cooling for the transmission. your ordinary AT "radiator" has a big radiator in it with glycol and big hoses, and a smaller cooling radiator with small stainless-steel lines that cools the transmission. in a towing package, there is a third radiator yet that connects to the transmission lines as well. you might even have a mousepad-sized engine oil cooler if they figured anybody would be serious about towing something.
shocks and springs are generally also part of the package, as are upgraded brakes. many towing packages also put a larger battery and alternator in. all include the wiring changes to drop a harness for at least a four-wire light connection in the back. it is also general that a higher gear ratio is put in the axle... trading top speed for torque.
degree and amount of changes differ depending on what the base build of the vehicle was before the towing package was added. but unless you are at the vehicle's upper limits up and down hills all day long with a tow, you shouldn't have to add anything else, except maybe a brake controller and the proper drawbar and hitch for the load.
just keep up the maintenance, check things before hitching up (I also slide underneath and look at the suspension stuff -- I had a jammed spring bolt in back from assembly that just rattled with a half-inch of free play that I had to cut off and replace, glad I checked), and drive safely. sounds like you should be ready to rumble.
as a daily driver, I found pickups OK... but depends. for a single guy, no problem. if you have a family to haul around, and groceries you'd rather keep cool and out of the dust, the tahoe would have the edge.
plan on using a WD (equalizing) hitch with your load, and don't forget the safety chains. I was starting to pass a closed race hauler once years ago, and held back because something wasn't looking right. just then the hitch ball broke off, and the trailer jiggled, then took off like a bat from Hell hard left, across the deep-trenched median, and popped up into the three lanes of opposite-direction traffic. having the safety chains on, and also electric brakes with a breakaway switch instead of a surge brake, would have prevented that danger. the mess would have been limited to where the trailer came off.
not to mention, I wouldn't have lit my tires up with the brakes
I find that over 80mph it can get a bit squirrily, I'm thinking of investing in a Weight Distributing hitch as well.
-mike
The reason I ask is that I'm military, getting close to another change of station, and I plan to tow my second vehicle ('92 Toyota Corolla). The total weight of this vehicle + a UHaul carrier is going to be around 4500lbs (+ myself, wife, 2 children, other personal items in the TB itself). I figured I'll be close to the TB's rated towing limit on this move (5800lbs), and I'll be using an Equalizer WD / antisway hitch for the trip. But I'm still in the planning phases for other equipment I'll need. At the moment, I've scratched an electric brake controller off my list (I want one, but won't use it with the UHaul, since it has surge brakes, so this item will wait until later). I'm considering scratching off the transmission cooler based on previous posts in this forum that indicate Chevy saying the warranty would possibly be voided (because it's already built to deal with the load as listed in the owners' manual).
All info and feedback on this vehicle and towing is appreciated.
-mike
-mike
-mike
-mike
Reason I'm asking is that I might be having to tow a 1980 Chrysler Cordoba on a dolly. I dunno how much a dolly weighs, but I'd guess the Cordoba'd weigh around 3500-3600 lb? Would this truck be capable?
-mike
-mike
-mike
Now I always check myself, twice, before driving off.
I've been lucky in my endeavors to not have to rely on the chains, but I've almost been hit by runaways that didn't have them connected on vehicles in the next lane over.
btw, believe it when they say cross the chains under the trailer tongue. that way, if you play smart and do the trick above so a loose trailer doesn't crash through the back end of your tow vehicle, the tongue can't ever snap down all the way to pavement and dig in. as they say in TV Guide, hilarity ensues. NOT.
I guess in that circumstance, I'd use the manual handle on my electric brake controller as the lone brake control (assuming I wasn't renting something like a car trailer with a surge brake) to slow the whole rig before doing anything like trying to stop. that's what the stone tablets that came with the Kelsey-Hayes controllers recommended. brake system rebuilds are cheap.
but again, using over-rated balls and hitches and poking at all the connections until we got laughed at, neither Dad or I have ever had a load breakaway problem.
I need advice based on real experience, not a guess. Thanks very much.
-mike
in slippery conditions on RWD when one wheel wanted to break loose and spin with full engine power, I used to figure out at the start of the season how many "clicks" of the park brake would keep the right wheel from running wild in a slimy parking lot. and if I got into issues at intersections, etc., I'd just click that number into the pedal and leave it in for a couple blocks or so, until the next red light, and test it again.
I push a lot of wheel spinners out of drifts at our apartment, and have had to lean in and click in the hand brake on lots of those young guns to keep them helping me, not making ice under the tires.
with AWD on my exploder, I still lock out the OD in winter weather, and shift down to second as well if there's any indication from the ABS of slipping. that way, I'm using engine braking as part of the package, as well. if you're trying to pull off a steep ramp in drive, shift it down, it helps.
-mike
-mike
the down sides are the fumes staying in the garage and coating everything with that nasty oily soot and the noise as the engine wears in.
oh, yes, you also pay a big price premium for that heavier diesel engine when you buy it.
-mike
Father-in-law bought a 7100 pound travel trailer and said we were free to use anytime - mentioned that the salesman said our Suburban could pull it. Obviously, with a few people and bags in the truck, we exceed the max rating, probably by 100-200 pounds at least.
We hooked it up this past weekend to try it out at the campground that is 2 miles from where he stores it. Used his weight distributing hitch and anti-sway bar. Seemed to pull just fine, but we were thinking of pulling it 3 hours away down I-75 through Kentucky - pretty hilly. Do you think it is safe to do so if we keep it at around 55-60 mph? I really don't want to trade in for a 2500 to pull this trailer once or twice a year. I am comfortable with safety in terms of stability, etc., but am concerned about abnormal strain on engine and transmission.
I have no experience with the Sub to know how much "margin" it may have with overtowing, but that sounds like you're cutting it a bit close. A few folks and some luggage would be more than 200 lbs, depending on who/how man/how big, etc.
A few times a year doesn't matter...you don't want to burn up that Sub 1500. Then you'd have to go out and get a MV ;-)
Hopefully, someone who has towing experience with a Sub can give you the straight scoop.
Doesn't it figure that I bought a big SUV and the first time I get a chance to use it's stiff frame for what it's made for, the trailer might be too heavy! What a crock.
Speaking of minivans, that new Chrysler looks pretty interesting... perhaps all that storage in the floor would compensate for the storage limitations behind the rear seat.
Cheers!
Paul
Good reply, good advice.
Thanks for the props.
All experiential learning
Cheers!
Paul
-mike
Steve, Host
OTOH, the bottom 3 are a bit suspect. For a sedan, the Elantra can pull an amazing amount (over 3000 lbs), but there are dozens of other vehicles that can tow more than that.
Sounds like the Top Ten Discussions list...more like My Top Ten Most Interesting Tow Vehicles ;-)
1. Is long distance towing a threat to the longevity of my Pathfinder?
2. Should I install a transmission cooler? I prefer not to, and I won’t drive faster than 70mi/hour when towing.
3. Should I turn off over-drive all the time? When should I turn on/off O/D?
I appreciate your inputs. Once the trip is done, I’ll follow-up my experience and how my pathfinder hold up.
you want the weight to be more towards the front of the trailer than the rear.
you shouldn't need trailer brakes, but allow extra distance for stopping.
you may notice some back and forth influence from the trailer at lower speeds.
if your trailer is a bit taller than your truck, it will smooth out as the wind pushes against the top of the trailer.
good luck with your trip.
If you have an accident in those states without required equipment, you may have insurance coverage issues, in addition to any hassle a cop may give you. Probably wouldn't hurt to ask your insurance agent about your plans.
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
tidester, host
Steve, Host
We towed our Subaru behind our class C MH for years, without braking systems, and had no troubles. Anything bigger or heavier back there would have needed it.
Cheers!
Paul
Steve, Host
I am looking for information on a front hitch for a 1997 Town and Country. I've got an idea for a hitch extention that will allow me to carry a long load on the roof. I want to carry a 26 foot sailboat mast. Does anyone know how/where to look for the front hitch unit?
Thanks
Greg
Please advise. Thank you!
-Kyle
Been doing some research in the last few days, and from some RV and boat forums they state that they would not tow over 75% of the rated weight of their tow vehicle. This is to protect the drivetrain and safety. I would look for a larger vehicle.