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Comments
High
Wouldn't that be the "one size fits all" approach?
Obviously a VW bug which could barely make 70 mph would not need a V rated tire, while a Ferrari might need Z rated tires. But if we stay within the region of most vehicles that are sold in the US, the potential top speed of the vehicle would have an effect, not to mention the handling characteristics dialed into the vehicle. So different speed ratings would be appropriate.
Unfortunately, it is impossible for a vehicle manufacturer to tell how their vehicle is going to be used by every particular customer, so they design for the vehicle's intended audience.
http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons- /emo_lemon.gifI was recently advised to change out my tires. I am just about ready to replace the thirteen inch wheels with 17 inch gun metal and tires. So, I bought three used tires for the purpose of having safe tires for my 700 mile round trip. I told the owner this. I also brought my car in the day of my departure three days later siting a slight wabble. The owner rotated them. Well, about 15 miles out of the city my wheels began to shake violently. I have had these tires less than a week and there is supose to be a 15 day warrenty. The owner will only replace one of the wheels that has a bald spot on it. What do I do with tires I can not use? If I do, I run the risk of blowing out. I live in Florida is there not some type of law out there? :sick: :lemon: :lemon:
My wife has been driving her XC90 for almost 23000 miles and the tires are almost at the point where they should be replaced. They're the 18 inch wheels and the 235/60/18 tires are a pain to get replaced. The stock Michelin Pilot tires are, from what I've read, only good for about 30,000 miles. I've also read, at a tire forum, that these tires rated about a 3 on a scale of 10. The tires were used on many makes and models and the two most common complaints were - (1) Tires ride horribly and (2) tires wear quickly - which I agree with - the ride on bumpy roads - "horrible" - if the tires are not ideally inflated in relationship to the load. My recommendation if you're going to buy a XC90 buy the 17" wheels - they're a whole lot easier to find tires for and from what I've heard, ride better. From what I've figured out only two manufacturers make a 235/60/18 - Michelin and Pirelli. Both rated poorly and had a very short wear life.
Finally, my question - For this car, can I use a tire that is not the stock dimensions. I've seen a few 235/65/18 tires that rate far better than the michelin 235/60/18. I know the side wall will be taller, but other than that I don't see any limitations. The 235/65/18 won't be so tall that it will effect the turning radius. Also I really don't like the way the stock tires look it almost looks to small. I think the 235/65/18 might look better.
Please feel free to bombard me with any information you would like to share on this topic
Thanks.
The solution to your problem is simple - you have to replace the tires.
And the law in Florida - probably says the dealer (not a private owner) is required to make good on a warranty if he gave one. A private owner probably isn't under any obligation, even if he promised a 15 day warranty. Even if he supplied a warranty, his obligation is to replace what broke, not what MIGHT break.
He sells the Hercules (as well as Goodyear and others) he says that Hercules used to have a retail line many years back, stopped when the competition got too hot, and are doing retail again now. I see them on canadian websites more so than here in the states. the mechanic also says that Hercules never left the backround, making the tires for many name brands.
It really seems to me that he'll be happy to sell me whatever tire I want, more expensive or less, but he likes the Hercules Terra Touring for my vehicle, but of course there's always the possibility that he has a much higher margin on the Hercules than the others he sells (kinda doesn't seem the sales gimmik type to me though).
I'm not to tire savvy, I don't really know what I want. The 97 safari is our family vehicle and we live now in Cleveland OH (they say the roads get cleaned pretty well here in the winter), I guess I want a good all season radial, for all around stuff (except off roading etc?)??
Is the Hercules a good idea or bad?
thanks much,
yitzie
This web site allows you to compare the diameter of different size tires. The 65 series tire will have a larger diameter and thus circumference and your speedometer will read low by about 3%. You need to go to a narrower tire when you increase the series to maintain the same diameter. A 215/65/R18 tire is within 0.3% of the diameter or your original tire. This tire will be 20mm or about 4/5" narrower than your original tire.
If you go with the 235/65/R18, just be aware of the speedometer difference.
Buyer be ware.
the car in question is a Hyundai Sonata
I value a quiet comfortable ride with excellent wet/dry stopping. Don't care all that much about tred life or price.I only put about 6k a year on my vehicle.Will probably keep it about 5 more years. Any thoughts or opinions on those tires? Thanks.
1 GY A TT
2. B T LS-T
3. Yoko AT
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Assurance+ComforTred
I guess some of us, like me, are just destined not to comprehend all this high-falutin' car stuff... :P :P
Because it violates one of the other "rules" - Tires should be mounted in pairs on the same axle.
No matter how you slice it, there's a problem with 2 tires.
I think the best approach is to take your lumps and do a better job of vehicle maintenance in the future.
Normally the term "original equipment" means the original tires on the vehicle - which would mean you would know how many miles are on them (or if you use snow tires, at least have a good idea), so I suspect the tires we are discussing aren't OE.
I looked up P-6's on TireRack, and they look symmetrical to me. Are you sure they are asymmetrical? If they are asymmetrical, this would be another reason to believe they aren't OE.
The biggest problem associated with asymmetrical tires mounted inside out is that you won't get the benefit of the asymmetry, in fact you get the opposite. But I don't think there is any harm done to the tire, except for wear.
Get this fixed. But after 6,000 miles (or 20,000), enough time and miles have passed that the dealer might not accept that he was at fault and not do the exchange for free (then again, he might - no harm in asking.)
- Pirelli PZero Nero M+S (235/55R/17)
- Bridgestone Turanza LS-V (same stock size avail.)
- Continental ContiProContact (same stock size avail.)
Based on the reviews, I prefer Pirelli PZero Nero M+S except it would change the overall diameter about 7/16" because the 235/55R/17 is the closest size available for this tire.
I contacted two Audi dealers and they say the difference (less than half an inch) is so minor that it wouldn't cause any problem. But most of the tire places (including Tirerack) wouldn't recommend installing PZero Nero.
Does anyone have experience with the other two (Turanza LS-V or ContiProContact)?
I eliminated Pilot Sport A/S from the list already due to it's "unnecessarily" high price.
Any comment/suggestion would be appreciated.
sj27
One of the original equipment tires was damaged by a nail and replaced by the dealer at 14000 miles charging me the full price of the Tire. I'm assuming that this is the one that is mounted inside out because I don't think a mistake like that would happen on a factory delivered vehicle. My original post (5222) was sent to the "ASK Conner thread but the host informs me that he is quite the busy man this month with all the snow tire orders.
This is reminds me about somthing very important:
your snow tires do you no good as they sit very nicely in your garage. Remember just as in the the old "Seinfeld" episode,Buying the tires is one thing, MOUNTING them on the car is another matter entirely.
Don't deviated from the original tire size.
Secondly, I have the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S (225-55-17)tires and couldn't be more pleased. They transformed my Subaru Outback XT and made it feel immensely more secure. Since you've paid big bucks for your Audi Allroad why not give it the best tires you can? It will improve your vehicle to such an extent that you will thank me. Spend the $1,000 all in that they cost and enjoy making your Audi perform at its best.
If you like "high performance" handling I am not sure why you are checking touring tires (Traction T/A or Turanza).
Krzys
My first experience was a purchase of a winter tire and wheel package. They tout very heavily their Hunter Road Force balancing included with the purchase. When I mounted the wheels, the car shimmied so badly it was hardly driveable. Upon taking it to a local tire store, they found that all four of the wheels were balanced improperly. After some arguing and discussion with both me and the store manager, Tire Rack agreed to pay for the balancing. But the whole idea was to avoid the two hours in the tire place on a Saturday to begin with.
This time I ordered just a set of steel wheels for my Civic. Their site specifically states that they ship with a set of lug nuts (in fact they say they are REQUIRED). They arrived without them. Upon contacting them, they said I could just use the OEM ones. But they are locking nuts that I prefer to keep out of the winter salt and grime. Besides the order specifically said they were included! Don't advertise it if you're not going to include it.
They're not worth the hassle. Besides, it seems that their selection of tires isn't what it used to be, especially the winter tires. No more Kumho's or Goodyear Ultragrips. I think I can and will do better elsewhere. I guess Tire Rack has a great rep, but I'm not impressed.
Krzys
This is my first set of snows since they invented Front wheel drive...so I don't know what is "normal" and I have 3 weeks to return...
The day after I got them, we had 4 inches of unplowed snow/ice/slush to try them on. I practiced stopping etc in a parking lot before I hit the roads and the car behaved well.
I didn't feel in total control while driving...but heh...it was the first storm of the season in Southern NH and a new set of tires....
However, I have noticed that I seem to peel out when I have to go from a dead stop to pull out in front of traffic (0 to 5/10mph) wether the ground is dry or wet.
Is this peeling out "normal" with the power of the Maxima?
Should I just "get used to it"?
or should I start to notify the tire dealer that I'm probably going to want them switched out before the 30days is up?
Thx
This tire is so new that not many people seem to have experience of it yet - many 2005/06 Audi & BMW have the tire as their OEM now.
Tire Rack has its recent road test data which is pretty impressive and honestly I think I like the new tread design which is subtle as an A/S but effective based on the info on Continental's website.
Just by looking at it, the design of the shoulder block pattern and the alternating concave/convex central rib is quite appealing.
Has anyone had experience with this tire?
Any comment/opinion would be appreciated.
p.s. Thanks "bobny11580" for your helpful opinion about Michelin Pilot Sport A/S. It's still an option even though I heard mixed opinion about the tire....
sj27
In addition, different tires behave differently. Using mt car as an example, I remember going from a sticky summer tire to my winter set-up a year ago, coming to a stop sign at a normal speed, braking at my usual braking point... and locking up and sliding into the crosswalk. It usually takes a few miles to get used to the differences.
I don't think there is anything wrong with the tires, and if you are satisfied with the safety and performance in snowy/bad weather, I would stick with them.
Yes, the Max is fairly powerful for a fwd car.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Thanks
I would say (with qualifications), if you do not need the A/T tires, you are actually better off getting the so called "highway" tires. Highway tires include examples like: Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza, Yokohama H/T-S G051, Michelin LTX etc. I have a FEW miles with the Michelin LTX's (507,000) (in mountain snow, ice, desert, rain, off road, etc.). I have app 50k in A/T's (old model)And 50k i n Bridgestone Desert Dueler (highway) I am favorably impressed with the Yokohama H/T-S G051's. (less than 1,000 miles)
On the other hand, if you do your research, you will find that certain A/T's can blur the lines between highway and A/T tires. I got the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo (for a good price). (with 6,000 miles experience) My initial concern was the mileage would suffer on the highway. Also one of the things that made me leery of going back to an A/T was the tread noise (much earlier models Bridgestone Desert Dueler) almost drove me to drink! So I was most favorable impressed when I didn't lose any fuel mileage over Michelin LTX's and the tread noise was not any different than (Michelin LTX's) a normal highway tire! This also feels like a much superior tire all the way around than the Michelin LTX (which itself is a sterling performer)
snow-covered hill to my house. It wasn't the car's fault as evidenced by my ability to climb that hill readily in a RWD BMW 5er equipped with Blizzaks.
I assume your T'blazer is 4WD or AWD but you'll maximize it's capabilities by running four good snows.
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
Would a cheapo like this do the trick?
http://cgi.ebay.ca/New-250-PSI-Mini-Air-Compressor-30-Perssure_W0QQitemZ75604957- 61QQcategoryZ22662QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
If it matters, we have a Honda Odyssey and a VW Passat sedan.
Steve, Host
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Water vapour reacts differently from other gases in air to temp. changes when the temp. transitions by 0 C (freezing), and this will affect the pressure.
Some say the O2 in air degrades tires, but I doubt anyone would notice over the normal life of a tire (around 5 years). The outside degrades much more due to ultraviolet (and visible) radiation from the sun. Just examine the inside of a tire when it is removed during replacement - it looks almost new compared to the outside.
It's a gimmick.
And the alignment will not change as a result of changing tire sizes, but the question is: "Did the alignment shop do the alignment in a way where tire size does not affect the measurements" Probably!
That having been said, uneven tire wear is a good indicator of improper alignment; as is a pull, or drift, consistently to one side (but make sure you try on a normally "crowned", level to the eye, road). On our 2005 Honda CR-v (yes, a Honda!) both alignment and wheel balance were off, as indicated to me by a drift in the car and a tremor in the steering wheel. The dealer confirmed and promptly fixed both issues.
THERE IS ONE reason for doing an alignment when you have a new set of tires: it IS more accurate, since tire diameter can affect the read out on an alignment machine.
You also need to check alignment when you replace struts (but not shocks).
Finally, in my experience, headlamp adjustment, wheel balance, and wheel alignment are the most likely mechanical defects on new cars. Simple things, but they seem to get a little shortchanged at the factory.
I am a firm believer that the reason an alignment is recommended with new tires is to get the money for an alignment for the tire store while the customer is present and willing to open their billfold to spend for the tires. They are in a spending mood. If there were no problem with the alignment driving the old tires, there wouldn't be one for the new tires. If one is present, when new tires go on would be the time to correct it to prevent extra wear on the new tires.
If a person drives a while on new tires, they are more likely to stop somewhere other than the tire-selling store for an alignment and the seller misses out of the ability to make that profit. I'm not saying it's a sleazy tactic; it's just oversold in a few cases where alignment is not needed.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The reason tires (an air pressure!) make a difference is the height - true, the alignment machine is attached to the rim, but where the rim "sits" in space is determined by the strut assembly on top, and the tire wear/inflation on the bottom.
I agree. I almost think that the dealer should perform a wheel alignment and balance as part of the new car delivery procedure. Wouldn't that be nice!
This is one that I am not sure about. I agree that the alignment tool is attached to the rim. However, the alignment of the front tires for caster, camber and toe in/out is very complicated and I can believe that the actual diameter of the tire can have some influence.
If it was me and I had just dropped a bunch of money on new tires and had not had an alignment for a while, I would probably get one. Also, I get just about all of my tires from Sam's or Costco who do not perform alignments so I must go somewhere else, usually Sears.