My MXV4+'s were pretty noisy on an Accord toward the end of the treadlife (50k for me). I put the cheaper Pilot XGT H4's on and was surprised there was less noise and the handling was MUCH better. I admit I can't recall my impressions about the sound level and handling of the MXV4+'s when they were new. Gas mileage was slightly better with the Energy tires.
My Pontiac Aztek GT AWD is riding on 235/60-17 Goodyear Eagle LS tires. I am considering replacing the rear wheels with the 255-55-17 Bfgoodrich Scorcher/TA tires. The spec for the diameter of both tires is 28.1 inches.
I heard that mixing tires of diffent sizes is not good on an AWD setup. In this case, the diameter of both tires are the same. The section width and sidewall length are different.
Anybody knows why? Is it ok to mix tires of equal diameter but different section width and sidewall length in an al wheel drive vehicle?
As you said, mixing tires of different diameter is not good because the AWD system relies on wheel rotational speed differences to detect slippage (and it would get confused with drastically different diameters), but differing widths should be okay. Just make absolutely sure that your diameters are about the same size. The BMW X5 V8 with the Sport package has slightly wider rear tires, for example.
I don't understand why you want to do this (I guess you are making a fashion statement) but this is a pretty technical issue. If it were me I'd contact Pontiac and see if I could speak to a driveline engineer about this.
You really need to know more about Pontiac's AWD system and how different tire sizes affect it. I am sure Pontiac engineers decided on a specific tire size for a reason.
Have you discussed this with other Aztek owners? Have you discovered a shop that modifies Azteks or has experience with GM's AWD systems? Have you done any research into the Aztek AWD system to understand its operation? Do you have the Aztek shop manual?
"Consumers Union, publisher of Consumer Reports, is an independent, nonprofit testing and information organization serving only consumers." Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Only US subscribers apparently. Canuck ones like myself always get it at least a couple of weeks later too (there is a Canada-only insert section called "Canada plus" which changes some of the info to Canada specific, so that's nice).
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Yes, CR stands for Consumer Reports. IIRC Michelin X-One, Pirrelli P4000, Yokohama Aegis LS4 and BFGoodrich T/A M65 were some of the highest rated tires. Of course, you need to look at how each one performed on dry, wet and snow/ice and make a judgement as to what kind of tire you need. For instance, the Pirrelli rated the highest on midline tires, but, only average on snow. The Yokohamas were nearly as good and rated above average on snow and the BFGoodrich tires rated very high on snow with slight penalty on dry and wet. I just purchased the Yokohamas for my Sienna from Tirerack. I was considering the M65s too, but, they don't come in my size. Just checked the CR site, but, its not there yet. I received the magazine 3 days ago.
Thanks for posting a brief summary of the CR tire results. The Yoko Aegis LS4s were one of the top one's on last years report too, and are the highest rated for their category in the Tire Rack results also. I almost bought them for my wifes Lumina mini-van, but instead went with the Yoko Avid Tourings due to the longer tread life, and comments about how quiet they were, and they were rated the top Standard Touring tire by Tire Rack. They were also $5 per tire cheaper than the Aegis LS4s, but it was pretty much a toss up. Ken
BTW Costco will install the tires I purchased at Tirerack for $10/tire and $1/stem. Most other places are in the $18 to $20/tire range. Just hope they don't damage my Al rims. Tirerack was great. Spoke to a representative who has the Aegis' on his Caravan and likes them. Ordered them on Monday and received them on Wednesday. I'll have them installed next week.
Thanks, good idea. Last time I had tires installed at Costco, they wouldn't accept a tip! They said it was policy. I'll try again - they deserve it if done right. I will torque the wheels after to make sure it's correct.
My wife is notorious for killing tires and with only 14.7k on her Altima, her front 2 tires are almost toast. I don't want to spend a whole lot on 2 replacement tires and was wondering what are some good choices. We live in the South Florida area, Pompano Beach, so Tire Kingdom and Olsen Tire are 2 stores near us. Any help would be appreciated. She has Generals on there now. I put Daytons on my Corolla and they've been quite good.(P.S. The wife never drives mine so my tires last quite a lot longer.)
Considering the amount of wear your wife puts on her tires, I would consider the Michelin X-One. They are not the cheapest tires on the market, but do have a treadwear warranty for 80,000 miles provided that you have them rotated every 7500 miles--a good idea with any tire, especially if your wife tends to wear them out quickly.
X-One's are great but pricey. If you want to save a little $$ then look at the Goodyear Regatta 2. If you have a Sams Club membership, they offer the Allegra which is very similar to the Regatta.
If you want/need rain traction, look at the Goodyear Aquatread 3. It's the direct competitor to the X-One.
Also I like Yokohama. Look at the Avid line, like the H4 or V4. Less expensive but well made tires.
my Wife scraped about 5 inches of one of her alloys on a curb. Only cosmetic damage. The damage is on the edge that sticks out where the tire meets the rim. What is the fix for this? Can I sand it down some. Appreciate help.
I have a small but annoying problem that has been an issue since the day I bought the car. The tires keep going slightly out of balance within 1000 miles or so. The car was misaligned from the factory, so the OE Firestones wore badly. By the time I noticed and had an alignment done they were too far gone to keep. I replaced them with Continential's. I've had the alignment done twice, the last time when I switched tires. The tire guy has checked the rims and tires, which look okay. They all balance out fine on the machine. We've tried different tire pressures with no effect. Does anybody have other suggestions or solutions?
erics6: Did you have the alignment done by a Subaru dealer? If not, you might try that. It might make a difference. Also, see the recent post (Oct 9, 1:30-ish) on the Subaru Forester board.
I would say it would be difficult to repair it yourself. There are several businesses that can be found on the Internet who specialize in this type of repair (I beleive this one advertises in the Car and Driver classifieds). If you have a full-size spare, the car can be driven on that while the wheel is being fixed. If the damage is cosmetic only, there is probably no rush to get it fixed, as the wheels will not rust like steel wheels.
I am shopping for winter tires for my 2001 Sequoia (16" wheels).
I was looking at Bridgestone Winter Dueler DM-Z2 245/75QR16. Our local dealers don't stock these and are recommending a Cooper winter tire (don't have the details -- my husband spoke to them) and studs.
We are in the mountains in Vermont. We drive about half of our miles on dirt roads that have a base of ice on them all winter long; the other half on hilly, curvy paved roads (2 lane hwy) with imperfect snow removal and often black ice. We had Cooper all-season tires on our last SUV (Expedition) and they were pretty good, but we really want to go with dedicated snows to make life easier this time.
What would you use in these conditions? How will the studs be on paved roads?
You folks are giving such good advice, I thought I'd run my situation by you and see what you think. I own a 1998 Subaru Forester S, which came with Yokohama Geolander H/Ts 215/60H16. I had a little problem with persistent bead leaks, but that seems to have been straightened out. They're not bad tires, hold the road in wet and dry, but are rated the pits for snow and ice (Consumer Reports, Tire Rack, and word of mouth). There are quite a few all season or all terrain tires which rate very good to excellent in wet/dry braking, cornering, wear and ice/snow traction, but practically nobody makes anything in my size. (Boo, hoo!) And, I've got to change these tires -- this is Minnesota!
I've looked at Toyo, Goodyear, Michelin (they make a few, but so far I'm not impressed), BF Goodrich, Nokia, Dayton. Anyone have any suggestions?
Well, if you can go to 225/60-16 that would help alot. There are zillions of tires in that size.
Thing is, your tire is a light truck/SUV tire. Most 225/60-16's are car tires. You can definitely switch but you'll lose some of that SUV look. It's up to you.
When I lived in Chicago I had good luck with the Goodyear Eagle GA (on a Dodge) and the Bridgestone Dueler HT (on a SUV).
Nokian makes a fab snow tire but I've heard their all-season's are kinda noisy.
You may want to go to Tire Rack's website and do a search on tires for our size 215/60R16. Keep in mind that you'll find more choices if you look under passenger car tires.
The stock Geolandars that come with the Forester S are listed as SUV tires, but they are probably closer to performance all-season tires than all-terrain tires. Unless you need really chunky tread for clambering through mud and rocks, you'll be fine with a regular passenger car tire.
Keep in mind that all-season tires are always a comprimise. Tires that have good dry/wet traction tend to do worse in snow and ice. Those that excel in snow/ice tend to have "squirmy" tread in dry and wet weather.
One other tidbit -- the Geolandar H/T reviewed in Consumer Reports are not the same tires that come with your Forester. The Geolandars tested in CR are the Y816 model. Ours comes with the G035 model which has a slightly more aggressive tread pattern and is H-speed rated.
Ken: I've checked Tire Rack for 215/60/16 -- there's very little that rates at least a 7 in snow and has good handling too. I'd like to stay with the H designation, if I can. Looked up the Yoko Geolander G035 -- it does rate a little better for snow traction than the Y816s that CR reviewed. I guess the G035s would rate 1/2 a black circle instead of a whole one for snow performance. Never thought I'd be the type, but its a kick to be able to get out of mud! Love it! Guess I'll just continue to look wistfully at LT Truck tires with great handling & good snow traction. Sigh. And know my only choices are passenger tires with so-so snow traction. Sigh. Sigh.
Bretfaz: Why 225/60/16? That's not even a +0; won't that throw my speedometer off? I've looked at my wheelwells. There doesn't seem to be much room for a taller tire; it looks like I would rub against something and I'm not knowledgeable enough about what I'm seeing to tell you what it is. Anyway, I checked that size on Tire Rack and there are more choices, but not ones that fit my criteria. I'm probably looking for a good SUV tire, which just ain't available in either size.
A 225 tire is 10mm wider than your 215. I don't have a Forester so I was wondering if someone who did have one has installed the wider tire.
Only reason I suggest the 225 is for the better selection. A speed-rated LT tire in 60 series that offers good snow traction is gonna be a rare bird.
If I were in this situation I'd consider Nokian for their expertise in snow traction tires. Look at the Nokian Hakka NRW which I think meets all you needs. It comes in 225/60-16 and 215/55-16.
Keep in mind that the Tire Rack survey results are relative and subjective. When looking at LT tires, keep in mind that a 'good' or 'excellent' rating can't be compared to a similar rating in a different category. Also, the ratings are based on customer perception -- not by any scientific method.
LT tires tend to higher profile and more agressive tread -- these characteristics make them great for getting out of snow and mud but work against you in hard cornering and high speeds.
Just as with passenger car tires, you can't get a LT tire that handles great while maintaining good snow traction. You can find ones that make good comprimises, however.
Since you live in snow country, I'd highly recommend getting a second set of dedicated winter tires. It will cost you more initially, but the added control and stability in the snow and ice will probably pay off in not having to have your vehicle in a body shop.
The advice you give is excellent. I, too, feel the best solution would be to purchase a good set of winter tires, since I am loath to give up the Geolanders entirely. They're not worn out and are fine in dry and rain. Unfortunately, I have a very small attached garage, steep basement stairs and live alone. Storing the extra set of tires would not be feasible -- need to use the space for the snow thrower. Maybe I can find a way around my storage problems.
Talked to Tires Plus yesterday. The rep recommended Bridgestone B420 or Firestone Supreme SI. I am unable to locate a rating or review on either or these tires. The speed ratings on both tires (S) is much lower than the H rating of my OEM tires. Wonder if the guy was just trying to sell me something?
Dunlop SP Sport A2 looks very good in the Tire Rack ratings and comments, but doesn't look like it has been around long enough to have a high number of reported miles. Do you have an opinion on Dunlop tires?
Do you still have the OEM tires on your Forester or did you switch to something else?
Looks like I'm showing my ignorance of tire sizes again. I think my best bet is to go to someone really knowledgeable and have them take a look at my wheels, wheelwells, etc., and see if there is an alternate size that would work well and give me better choices than I have now. Whoever I choose should also have a 30 to 45-day trial period. I'm inclined to agree with Kens and stick with the original 215/60/16 size. Unfortunately, the only LT tire available in that size is the one I've got. Therefore I'm back to looking at passenger tires and trying to figure out if there is any way I can store an extra set of tires in order to get winter tires.
Just found out a new crony of mine has a red Forester (didn't ask if it was an S). Will pop around tommorrow and see what experience he's had with tires.
Does anyone here have any experience with these tires? I'm thinking of getting either the Hakka 1, Toyo Observe G-02 or Observe X-10 for my Protege 5, in 185/65R15 size. Which one offers the best performance for Canadian winters? The tires will not be studded as studs are illegal here. I'm looking for good snow/slush performance without sacrificing dry handling & noise too much. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Yes, storage space is another consideration for getting dedicated winter tires. That's a hard one to get by unless you rent extra storage space.
I understand not wanting to go to a lower speed rating. However, you'll find that most truck tires with beefy tread will have less than a H rating. It's another one of those darn trade offs. ;-)
I personally think Dunlop tires provide a good balance of performance and value, much like Yokohamas. A lot of people with Imprezas and WRXs go with the SP5000s -- a very good all-season ultra-high performance tire. My buddy who also drives a Forester S recently tossed his worn Geolandards and bought a set of those new Sport A2s. Based on the tread pattern, I expect it to have great dry and wet handling, but slightly worse snow traction than the Geolandards because there are fewer tread blocks in the design. Again, a great choice for milder climates with light snow.
As for myself, I went with another set of Geolandars after going through a lot of research. I live in CA so my snow driving is limited to the few times I go snowboarding in the Sierras. I liked the way the Geolandars performed and they're relatively inexpensive so I figured I could take the strategy of just replacing them a little more often. Just a small tidbit of info, but the Geolandars were originally developed specifically for the Forester by Yokohama.
One other option would be the Nokian HRWs. I don't know a whole lot about them, but they're supposed to be all-season tires (H-rated, too) but with a design to make them more effective in snow. Nokians are hard to find and pricey.
I liked the Dunlop D60 A2s that I bought to replace some OEM Continentals. I also liked the Dunlops better than Pirelli P600s (great grip, but too-short life). I'd buy Dunlops again - good performance wet and dry, plus very good price (mail order).
OEM's on a 2001 Forester L. At 26,500 m. the treadbars are showing. Dangerous in snow, ice, slush. Why would an AWD mfr put these on a vehicle used in most of snow country North America? !!! No respose from Subaru. To Bridgestone's credit, they did offer 50% off on any of their tires. I found no all season that offer reasonable performance in snow. Finally chose Michelin Symmetry. Any strong opinions on this tire for snow/ice,slush? Yes, we have used Nokian Hakka winters on the FWD car. Great but they do wear fast.
When the Ranger was due for new tires a couple years ago I found these for an unbelievable price and took a chance. They've turned out to offer both better grip, better traction in slow, AND longer life than my Firestone FR480's. I had them rotated after a year and 15 thousand miles and the guy at Pep boys asked if they were brand new. In addition, the rubber on the sidewall doesnt get scraped all the way down to the white fabric underneath if I tap a curb while parking like they did on the old tires. Just curious as to whether anyone was familiar with the name, as I havent been able to find anythign on them anywhere and I was hoping to buy another set of the same next time.
From what I can tell by searching on google.com, Laramies could be made by Kelly-Springfield or Cooper Tire or someone else. The only way to know is to check the DOT code on a particular tire and figure out what factory made them.
Here's a link to the manufacturer's plants, but i'm not sure how definitive or current it is.
One issue with private label tires is that the same model name may be in use for years, but the manufacturer can change, depending on which factory has the capacity, best bid or whatever. I suppose even the "name" tires change all the time as the engineers tweak the formula compounds (or maybe the beancounters specify different chemicals!).
You may want to check tirerack.com for other recommendations too. Anyone with better info, please jump in. Good luck eharri3! Steve Host Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
A new tire store has opened in our area (Sacramento CA), It's Les Schwab. Their prices seem very good but I don't know anything about them. Does anyone know about this company and who makes their private brands? Anyone have any experience with them? Any info would be appreciated.
Just figured I'd check in and add my two cents. pjd58: If the damage to the rims is truly cosmetic, meaning there is no leakage, the jagged edge does not dig into the bead, and the rim is still true, the only corrective action required is a rebalance (if she really scraped away that much aluminum or popped off the weight). Even if you haven't noticed a drop in tire pressure, take a spray bottle full of soapy water (using dishwashing detergent) and spray the area. If you see tiny bubbles (like Guiness froth) seeping between the rim and bead over the next three minutes, the rim should be replaced. It could be repaired by whacking it back into shape with a hammer, or sealing it with bead sealer, but neither is a good solution. As for the trueness, jack it up and spin the wheel. If you notice any runout in the RIM, it is bent (a little runout in the TIRES is normal, unless you drive on Michelins). If you don't have time to check the trueness of the rim, make sure you at least check the leakage, even if this is a concave injury. You might not notice a leak of this nature over a few days, but a bead leak can bleed a tire down to 5-10psi if unchecked over several weeks (I've seen it many times). And that's always a bad thing. --Chris
Say "meats" if you want to be down with the sheik tire jive. Those cats will know you're faking the funk if you ask them for "skins." ...though requesting MXV4+ tires will identify you as being smarter than the average bear. Good choice. --c.
I'd concur with Mr. Corvette that your problem is more likely steering system related. Oversteer is a characteristic of front-wheel drive cars, but if you're comparing it to other Hondas, then yours must be more severe. Do you often drive with a low fuel tank? It would help to know if you're talking about rapid movements or gentle corrections. Assuming you're referring to maneuvers like emergency lane changes, I'd guess that for whatever reason, your car is balanced differently than the noted other, either by cargo in the trunk, a full tank of gas, or a larger (heavier--V6) engine. If I were such a precise driver that I were bothered by a slight oversteer under normal driving conditions, I would start my experimenting with the pressure differential from front to rear. Try splitting the pressure from front to back by 2psi and go from there (keeping it the same on each "axle"). Check your front tire treads for signs of a misalignment (see previous posts on this matter). It's strange, since, if anything, I'd say the MXV4s are prone to understeer, since their rounded shoulders are intended to "give" as the car approaches its lateral-G limit, resulting in a gradual release of traction rather than an abrupt, unexpected fishtail. That's why they've been reported to "sing" on exit ramps--when taken at twice the marked speed, like me. But I suppose that tendancy could just as likely kick the rear end out. Have you checked the DOT #s? If the front tires are significantly newer than the rear tires (more than two years), they would have slightly more grip--even if installed at the same time. Just a thought, though unlikely your culprit. Or maybe you're just a little too picky, Mitch. ---chris
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According to this link anyway.
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I heard that mixing tires of diffent sizes is not good on an AWD setup. In this case, the diameter of both tires are the same. The section width and sidewall length are different.
Anybody knows why? Is it ok to mix tires of equal diameter but different section width and sidewall length in an al wheel drive vehicle?
For more information about tires, check out the Tires, tires, tires discussion topic in the Aftemarket & Accessories message board.
Drew
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You really need to know more about Pontiac's AWD system and how different tire sizes affect it. I am sure Pontiac engineers decided on a specific tire size for a reason.
Have you discussed this with other Aztek owners? Have you discovered a shop that modifies Azteks or has experience with GM's AWD systems? Have you done any research into the Aztek AWD system to understand its operation? Do you have the Aztek shop manual?
Thanks,
Ken
"Consumers Union, publisher of Consumer Reports, is an independent, nonprofit testing and information organization serving only consumers."
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Drew
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Greg
Ken
Ken
Greg
Greg
If you want/need rain traction, look at the Goodyear Aquatread 3. It's the direct competitor to the X-One.
Also I like Yokohama. Look at the Avid line, like the H4 or V4. Less expensive but well made tires.
Also, see the recent post (Oct 9, 1:30-ish) on the Subaru Forester board.
I would say it would be difficult to repair it yourself. There are several businesses that can be found on the Internet who specialize in this type of repair (I beleive this one advertises in the Car and Driver classifieds). If you have a full-size spare, the car can be driven on that while the wheel is being fixed. If the damage is cosmetic only, there is probably no rush to get it fixed, as the wheels will not rust like steel wheels.
Steve
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I am shopping for winter tires for my 2001 Sequoia (16" wheels).
I was looking at Bridgestone Winter Dueler DM-Z2 245/75QR16. Our local dealers don't stock these and are recommending a Cooper winter tire (don't have the details -- my husband spoke to them) and studs.
We are in the mountains in Vermont. We drive about half of our miles on dirt roads that have a base of ice on them all winter long; the other half on hilly, curvy paved roads (2 lane hwy) with imperfect snow removal and often black ice. We had Cooper all-season tires on our last SUV (Expedition) and they were pretty good, but we really want to go with dedicated snows to make life easier this time.
What would you use in these conditions? How will the studs be on paved roads?
Thanks in advance!
You folks are giving such good advice, I thought I'd run my situation by you and see what you think. I own a 1998 Subaru Forester S, which came with Yokohama Geolander H/Ts 215/60H16. I had a little problem with persistent bead leaks, but that seems to have been straightened out. They're not bad tires, hold the road in wet and dry, but are rated the pits for snow and ice (Consumer Reports, Tire Rack, and word of mouth). There are quite a few all season or all terrain tires which rate very good to excellent in wet/dry braking, cornering, wear and ice/snow traction, but practically nobody makes anything in my size. (Boo, hoo!) And, I've got to change these tires -- this is Minnesota!
I've looked at Toyo, Goodyear, Michelin (they make a few, but so far I'm not impressed), BF Goodrich, Nokia, Dayton. Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
Noelle
Thing is, your tire is a light truck/SUV tire. Most 225/60-16's are car tires. You can definitely switch but you'll lose some of that SUV look. It's up to you.
When I lived in Chicago I had good luck with the Goodyear Eagle GA (on a Dodge) and the Bridgestone Dueler HT (on a SUV).
Nokian makes a fab snow tire but I've heard their all-season's are kinda noisy.
You may want to go to Tire Rack's website and do a search on tires for our size 215/60R16. Keep in mind that you'll find more choices if you look under passenger car tires.
The stock Geolandars that come with the Forester S are listed as SUV tires, but they are probably closer to performance all-season tires than all-terrain tires. Unless you need really chunky tread for clambering through mud and rocks, you'll be fine with a regular passenger car tire.
Keep in mind that all-season tires are always a comprimise. Tires that have good dry/wet traction tend to do worse in snow and ice. Those that excel in snow/ice tend to have "squirmy" tread in dry and wet weather.
One other tidbit -- the Geolandar H/T reviewed in Consumer Reports are not the same tires that come with your Forester. The Geolandars tested in CR are the Y816 model. Ours comes with the G035 model which has a slightly more aggressive tread pattern and is H-speed rated.
Ken
Bretfaz: Why 225/60/16? That's not even a +0; won't that throw my speedometer off? I've looked at my wheelwells. There doesn't seem to be much room for a taller tire; it looks like I would rub against something and I'm not knowledgeable enough about what I'm seeing to tell you what it is. Anyway, I checked that size on Tire Rack and there are more choices, but not ones that fit my criteria. I'm probably looking for a good SUV tire, which just ain't available in either size.
Noelle
Only reason I suggest the 225 is for the better selection. A speed-rated LT tire in 60 series that offers good snow traction is gonna be a rare bird.
If I were in this situation I'd consider Nokian for their expertise in snow traction tires. Look at the Nokian Hakka NRW which I think meets all you needs. It comes in 225/60-16 and 215/55-16.
LT tires tend to higher profile and more agressive tread -- these characteristics make them great for getting out of snow and mud but work against you in hard cornering and high speeds.
Just as with passenger car tires, you can't get a LT tire that handles great while maintaining good snow traction. You can find ones that make good comprimises, however.
Since you live in snow country, I'd highly recommend getting a second set of dedicated winter tires. It will cost you more initially, but the added control and stability in the snow and ice will probably pay off in not having to have your vehicle in a body shop.
Ken
Talked to Tires Plus yesterday. The rep recommended Bridgestone B420 or Firestone Supreme SI. I am unable to locate a rating or review on either or these tires. The speed ratings on both tires (S) is much lower than the H rating of my OEM tires. Wonder if the guy was just trying to sell me something?
Dunlop SP Sport A2 looks very good in the Tire Rack ratings and comments, but doesn't look like it has been around long enough to have a high number of reported miles. Do you have an opinion on Dunlop tires?
Do you still have the OEM tires on your Forester or did you switch to something else?
Just found out a new crony of mine has a red Forester (didn't ask if it was an S). Will pop around tommorrow and see what experience he's had with tires.
Noelle
Which one offers the best performance for Canadian winters? The tires will not be studded as studs are illegal here.
I'm looking for good snow/slush performance without sacrificing dry handling & noise too much.
Any suggestions will be appreciated.
Yes, storage space is another consideration for getting dedicated winter tires. That's a hard one to get by unless you rent extra storage space.
I understand not wanting to go to a lower speed rating. However, you'll find that most truck tires with beefy tread will have less than a H rating. It's another one of those darn trade offs. ;-)
I personally think Dunlop tires provide a good balance of performance and value, much like Yokohamas. A lot of people with Imprezas and WRXs go with the SP5000s -- a very good all-season ultra-high performance tire. My buddy who also drives a Forester S recently tossed his worn Geolandards and bought a set of those new Sport A2s. Based on the tread pattern, I expect it to have great dry and wet handling, but slightly worse snow traction than the Geolandards because there are fewer tread blocks in the design. Again, a great choice for milder climates with light snow.
As for myself, I went with another set of Geolandars after going through a lot of research. I live in CA so my snow driving is limited to the few times I go snowboarding in the Sierras. I liked the way the Geolandars performed and they're relatively inexpensive so I figured I could take the strategy of just replacing them a little more often. Just a small tidbit of info, but the Geolandars were originally developed specifically for the Forester by Yokohama.
One other option would be the Nokian HRWs. I don't know a whole lot about them, but they're supposed to be all-season tires (H-rated, too) but with a design to make them more effective in snow. Nokians are hard to find and pricey.
Ken
http://www.nokiantires.com/html/map.htm
The tire to look at is the NRW in 215/55-16 or 225/60-16.
I'm sure there are a few sets of D60's still in inventory nationwide.
Why would an AWD mfr put these on a vehicle used in most of snow country North America? !!! No respose from Subaru. To Bridgestone's credit, they did offer 50% off on any of their tires. I found no all season that offer reasonable performance in snow.
Finally chose Michelin Symmetry. Any strong opinions on this tire for snow/ice,slush?
Yes, we have used Nokian Hakka winters on the FWD car. Great but they do wear fast.
Here's a link to the manufacturer's plants, but i'm not sure how definitive or current it is.
One issue with private label tires is that the same model name may be in use for years, but the manufacturer can change, depending on which factory has the capacity, best bid or whatever. I suppose even the "name" tires change all the time as the engineers tweak the formula compounds (or maybe the beancounters specify different chemicals!).
You may want to check tirerack.com for other recommendations too. Anyone with better info, please jump in. Good luck eharri3!
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Their prices seem very good but I don't know anything about them. Does anyone
know about this company and who makes their private brands? Anyone have any
experience with them? Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
pjd58: If the damage to the rims is truly cosmetic, meaning there is no leakage, the jagged edge does not dig into the bead, and the rim is still true, the only corrective action required is a rebalance (if she really scraped away that much aluminum or popped off the weight). Even if you haven't noticed a drop in tire pressure, take a spray bottle full of soapy water (using dishwashing detergent) and spray the area. If you see tiny bubbles (like Guiness froth) seeping between the rim and bead over the next three minutes, the rim should be replaced. It could be repaired by whacking it back into shape with a hammer, or sealing it with bead sealer, but neither is a good solution. As for the trueness, jack it up and spin the wheel. If you notice any runout in the RIM, it is bent (a little runout in the TIRES is normal, unless you drive on Michelins).
If you don't have time to check the trueness of the rim, make sure you at least check the leakage, even if this is a concave injury. You might not notice a leak of this nature over a few days, but a bead leak can bleed a tire down to 5-10psi if unchecked over several weeks (I've seen it many times). And that's always a bad thing.
--Chris
...though requesting MXV4+ tires will identify you as being smarter than the average bear. Good choice.
--c.
It's strange, since, if anything, I'd say the MXV4s are prone to understeer, since their rounded shoulders are intended to "give" as the car approaches its lateral-G limit, resulting in a gradual release of traction rather than an abrupt, unexpected fishtail. That's why they've been reported to "sing" on exit ramps--when taken at twice the marked speed, like me. But I suppose that tendancy could just as likely kick the rear end out. Have you checked the DOT #s? If the front tires are significantly newer than the rear tires (more than two years), they would have slightly more grip--even if installed at the same time. Just a thought, though unlikely your culprit.
Or maybe you're just a little too picky, Mitch.
---chris