Lexus RX 300

avery1

Mine did this when the battery was going. A new battery solved the problem.

rastamanx

I recently bought a 2000 RX300 with 84,000 miles.
I bought the car from a dealer, and the inspection showed not apparent problems.

I can buy a "Gold" extended warranty from the Lexus dealership which covers up to 2 yeras or 100k miles (whichever is first). The warranty costs about $1400, and seems to cover most powertrain and electrical things (though it is not the "platinum" bumper-bumper warranty).

The question is: Is it worth it to buy the warranty? What are the chances that I will spend more than $1400 in repairs for the next 16,000 miles?

Any thoughts/comments appreciated.

Thanks!

pschiffe

According to the Edmunds Maintenance Guide you will be coming up on $378.74 expense for the 90K service which would not be covered by warranty. That service should put you in good shape and my opinion would be to say NO on the extended warranty! See below:



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2000 Lexus RX 300 4 Dr STD 4WD Wagon

To learn more about a specific part, click on the name under Part Description. To learn more about how the estimated cost for a part or service is determined, click on the Part Cost or Labor Cost links.

Mileage Range
24,999
or less 25,000
to 49,999 50,000
to 74,999 75,000
to 99,999 100,000
or more

Service
75,000
80,000
85,000
90,000
95,000

Part Description Part Cost
Engine oil $ 13.25
Oil filter $ 6.60
Timing belt $ 44.60
Total Estimated Parts Cost $ 64.45

Labor Action Item Labor Cost
Inspect Air conditioning system $ 5.46
Check level Automatic transmission fluid $ 1.09
Inspect Ball joints $ 5.46
Inspect Body $ 2.73
Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections $ 1.09
Inspect Brake system $ 21.84
Inspect Cabin air filter $ 16.38
Inspect Chassis & body $ 2.73
Check level Differential fluid $ 5.46
Retorque bolts Drive shaft $ 5.46
Change Engine oil $ 10.92
Inspect Fuel system $ 5.46
Inspect Fuel tank, cap & lines $ 2.73
Replace Oil filter $ 5.46
Perform Road test $ 5.46
Inspect Steering linkage $ 5.46
Inspect Steering rack $ 5.46
Replace Timing belt $ 169.26
Rotate Wheels & tires $ 16.38
Total Estimated Labor Cost $ 294.29

Total Estimated Costs
Total Estimated Parts Cost For Your Area $ 64.45
Total Estimated Labor Cost For Your Area $ 294.29
Total Estimated Cost (excluding tax)* $ 358.74
*This Total Estimated Cost includes the preventive maintenance items recommended by Lexus. The facility that services your vehicle may perform different, greater, or fewer procedures that can affect the cost you incur. For example, engine oil change and filter replacement are commonly performed by dealer and independent service facilities at special prices. These "special price" services do not typically include all of the additional procedures recommended by Lexus at each service interval.
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Pete

dominor5

I experienced these exact symptoms 3 days ago on my 2001 Toyota Highlander--headlights and panel lights flickering ever so slightly at first, then the car stumbling while accelerating yesterday. FIX WAS A NEW BATTERY. The shop I took it to used their Interstate ED-18 analyzer (really cool) and the Battery test failed--on the diags printout it actually said "battery replacement highly recommended". What's surprising is the OEM battery (Panasonic) was only 3 years old as of August and the indicator light was still showing blue. The mechanic told me it's possible one of the cells went out. Anyway, I now have an Optima Redtop--no more flickering after first drive and no more stumbling . . . whew! Actually, I also had the famous hesitation issue, but now can't seem to reproduce it.

mikey00

What model Optima Red Top did they use for your Highlander? How's the fit? The Optima Red Top website claims they don't have a battery to fit the Highlander.

dominor5

They installed a 75/35 with the included platform--fits perfectly. If the length of the battery cables is not a concern, not sure how it is on the RX300, I'd go with the 34/78 which is better.

hcu87

My 2001 RX300 (38K) wouldn't start this morning and it turned out to be a dirty gas tank. The Lexus guy said it's OK to use 87 octane, just pour in a gas cleaner every 7000 miles. This is good preventative maintenance.

jguo

Is the Lexus tech saying that 87 octane is some how dirtier compare to the higher octane?

mikey00

87 octane should no be any dirtier than higher octane. I really question the logic of this Lexus tech.

hcu87

He didn't say that it was dirtier but he did indicate that long term use of 87 octane might not be as favorable as that of higher octane fuels. What he said was that there was residue (in the gas tank? in the fuel injectors
?) that prevented the car from starting up normally. Supposedly, the fuel additive, used regularly, will prohibit that from happening. Also, I have to admit that I always buy the cheapest 87 octane so that probably doesn't help.

petej2

I need to re-attach the silver posts to my RX300 radio 2 main knobs i.e. the round silver posts that the black knobs attach to, the lexus dealer says it cant be done, and I need a new radio,is this true

pschiffe

Seems unlikely to me although I have no knowledge of your specific problem. I'd try a shop that specializes in automotive sound systems etc. for a second opinion.

Pete

mikey00

The silver posts you need attach to a module in the radio, which would need to be replaced. I don't think you will find anyone to get into that level of repair these days. Your effort is further hampered by the lack of aftermarket radios for the RX. Get a second opinion as suggested above, and then make your move.
Mike

joanzie

Has anyone had to change their transmission fluid and if so when. I have 30,000 miles on my Rx and the Lexus dealer says I should change it. My lexus book does not say to change it at that milage and Edmunds maintenance also does not say this. I will look at the fluid before I take it in to them and if it is OK then I will see what they say to me after they check it!

wwest

The owners manual does not indicate a need to change the transmission fluid during the useful life of the transmission itself. At ~38K the fluid in my 01 AWD RX300 is definitely looking burned and has a burned odor. My RX has the tow package, extra transmission fluid heat exchanger behind the right front bumper area, and the tow hitch was removed the week I took delivery, NEW.

I have asked Lexus why this might be so and they keep telling me to go to the dealer for an answer.

I suspect its something they don't wish to put in writing.

mikey00

I found the same thing with my fluid. The owners’ manual does not state a change is necessary but does say to inspect it. From there it's open to interpretation. If it looks darker than normal at inspection maybe it should be changed. I changed it at 60k just to be safe.

santacruz1

My wife has a 99 RX300 AWD and I asked Lexus how much to do a 60K major service- replace all fluids, change spark plugs etc and they quoted me over $700. Ask Toyota and they quoted me under $400. The Toyota Highlander is basically the same car as the RX300. The only thing you would not get with Toyota is a free car wash and a nicer waiting area. I could live with that.

mikey00

Sounds like your wasting money. The RX does not require spark plugs and change all fluids at 60K.

pschiffe

My Toyota dealer charged $22.95 + tax for 60K service on my '99 RX. Basically a lube, oil & filter change. Lexus wants $114.30 + tax, for that extra $100 you also get a tire rotation (free where I bought the tires) and a "courtesy" car wash.

Pete

mikey00

I think your Toyota dealer missed some Lexus 60K required service (air filter, coolant, brake fluid, +)

pschiffe

Mikey,
Replaced the air filter myself using genuine Toyota part from irontoad.com. Fluid levels etc. were all checked as part of the included multi-point inspection.

Pete

mikey00

Check your owners manual. Lexus requires brake fluid flush and coolant change at 60K not just a check.

wwest

The factory coolant/anti-freeze in my 92 LS400 lasted until a few months ago, 100k miles. I only changed it out because it began to look murky, ph was still good as was specific gravity.

Brake fluid flush. The brake system is completely sealed, it has to be to sustain the high pressures that it must.

Personally I think there is more potential for compromising my safety by having a third party mess with my brakes than there will ever be from extending the fluid useage for the life of the system components exposed to the fluid.

mikey00

I am not sure why Lexus requires the coolant change but my guess is it has to due with the rust inhibitor. As far as the brake fluid change goes, I am not sure of their reasoning but I figured it's cheap enough insurance. My BMW also required the brake fluid change. So the engineers at BMW came to the same conculsion. If it was the dealer suggesting the flush, I would forget it.

wwest

doesn't rust.

tidester

Aluminum does oxidize though not usually as rapidly or severely as iron.

tidester, host

wwest

Doesn't the oxidized surface of aluminum serve to protect the underlying metal? At least I seem to remember being told that about aluminum aircraft skins.

tidester

Yes, it does, to some extent which is why the oxidation isn't as severe or as rapid as oxidation of iron.

tidester, host

pschiffe

I made a conscious decision to avoid the coolant and brake fluid changes at 60K, it was done at 30K. This was based largely on discussion on this forum. I do intend to have them changed at 90K along with the timing belt.

Pete

mikey00

The life of the antifreeze depends on it's ability to inhibit corrosion. Silicates, phosphates and/or borates are used as corrosion inhibitors to keep the solution alkaline. As long as the antifreeze remains so, corrosion is held in check and there's no need to change the coolant. But as the corrosion inhibiting chemicals are used up over time, electrolytic corrosion starts to eat away at the metal inside the engine and radiator. Aluminum is especially vulnerable to corrosion and can turn to Swiss cheese rather quickly when conditions are right.

wwest

and use the same Ph monitoring strips to test my antifreeze.....

stever

My wife maintains ours - she's gonna get confused when I run out to the garage with her Ph strips....

The heat died (again) last night so maybe she won't notice.

Steve, Host

bobjet

Purchased a used RX300 2001 (36K miles)with one previous lease owner. Would like to hear owners' experiences with major repairs up to 100K miles which is the limit of the extended warranty. The dealer is quoting approx. $1900 on the lexus platinum program. In my previous Honda and Toyota cars which I held for over 140K miles each, I never experience any major problems other than wear and tear issues plus fluids, brakes, timing belt etc.

pschiffe

ConsumerReports.org® has selected the RX330 as their top-pick midsized SUV:

Midsized SUV: Lexus RX330
The RX330 is our top-pick midsized SUV. The refined and responsive 230-hp, 3.3-liter V6 and smooth-shifting five-speed automatic work well. Handling is fairly agile. Emergency handling is forgiving and secure, thanks to the standard electronic-stability-control (ESC) system. The ride is very comfortable. The well-detailed interior is as plush and quiet as in many luxury cars. The rear seat is roomy, but cargo capacity is modest. The rear roof pillars create a large blind spot. An optional rear-view camera that helps when backing up is bundled with the navigation system. The 400h hybrid version is expected to arrive in early 2005.

Pete

bobfloyd

Any new information based on recent battery replacement? My 2000 RX Panasonic battery is now 4 1/2 yrs old. Running fine, no symtoms yet of malfunction. A year ago discussion prevailed here about replacements being too tall causing a problem with the holddown bracket fitting correctly.
Any battery brand, model recommendations would be appreciated. I plan to replace now before a problem develops.

wwest

Bought them on two LS400's, a 92 and a 95, warranty ran out at 100k on both with never having need for use.

Expensive lesson.

wwest

My RX300 is an 01 AWD and I am on record as saying the hesitation syndrome does not exist in it. What it does do is shift into "neutral" (for wont of a more descriptive or correct term) during coastdown and/or just before coming to a full stop.

My suspicion about all of this is as follows.

When the Prius was in design phase they decided to eliminate engine lagging torque during "coastdown" in favor of simulating the same "feel" using the battery charging braking regeneration system. Even today the Prius driver can manually select engine lagging torque or battery recharging.

And then via engineering "cross-polination" someone in the FWD design area realized that the same method, eliminating engine "drag" during coastdown by taking the transmission out of gear would result in improved fuel economy. They may have even realized that a side benefit might be fewer loss of control accidents in adverse roadbed conditions due to engine braking on the front drive and STEARING wheels.

I think we have pretty much confirmed that the hesitation issue only applies to Toyota/Lexus FWD models or AWD with front torque bias.

Now, my 01's gas pedal is directly connected to the engine so if I suddenly go WOT while the transmission is not in gear the only design choice they had was to put the thing in gear as quickly as possible.

Sorta like on my 300HP C4 applying WOT and THEN releasing the clutch. Burned smell from the area of the clutch.

My transmission fluid smells and looks burned at only 38k miles, this for a vehicle that has NO factory recommedation for transmission fluid, has a towing package, external transmission fluid cooler, that has never been used. I am seeing reports of transmission failures for my model years between 60k miles and 100k miles.

Anyone want to guess why my Transmission fluid is burned at 38k miles?

So, someone with e-throttle suddenly goes WOT in the same circumstance. The transmission firmware "talks" to the engine and says "wait" I need to get myself into gear and give the transmission clutches and bands an additional few hundred milliseconds to fully seat".

Seems, if true, a problem that could readily fixed in firmware, right?

NOT!

Before even one was shipped these vehicles were EPA qualified for a specific city/hwy fuel economy. What does the EPA say, or do, if the manufacturer, after the fact, wants to go back and revise the fuel economy adversely?

And possibly even more pertainant, what about the PR issue?

Now, I have heard that the hesitation problem in the 05 RX330 has been fixed, and please correct me if I'm wrong, but haven't I seen a posting wherin someone was asking why the MPG rating of the 05 was poorer than the 04 by only a MPG or so?

buckeye1

My 05 RX has label on under side, leading edge of front hood (when opened) that states coolent fluid good for 100,000 miles.

buckeye1

On trip from SCal to Seattle and return, with wife and perhaps 100 pounds of luggage. Some fairly hilly drives at times. Gas mileage varied from: (measured at pump using odometer and actual gallons reflected on pump; topped off one squeeze each tankful).

@ 75 to 80 mph; 23.5 mpg

@ 65 to 70 mph; 25.5 mpg

No apparent oil consumption. Wonderful drive, no "hesitation", terrific brakes, good torque power when needed, steering smooth as warm butter, quiet cabin. Set the RX on CControl at 79mph for long stretches of flat terrain and tach sat on 2250rpm. A few times on heavy climbs without CControl, engine shifted from approx. 2200rpm to 2800rpm; when climb decreased enough, the transmission smoothly shifted up to 5th. Morning window frost cleared with max. heater in a couple of minutes after cold engine start.

First local 900 miles of mixed city/freeway driving averaged 20/21 mpg.

skilroy

My lease is ending in a few months and I'll be turning my RX300 back in. It's been a great SUV BUT the residual was too high, exceeding the book value of the vehicle by more than $4,000, so I'm saying goodbye.

Has anybody else turned a leased car back to Lexus before? What kind of charges can I expect to get hit with? What do I need to bring up to snuff?

The vehicle is 20,000 miles under the allotment, there are a few minor door dings (no paint removed) and the back bumper, which came powder coated, has been scratched up pretty well. Other than that the interior is fine, I've been respectable with the maintenance but I haven't replaced the tires (they have 40,000 miles on them)

Anybody have a conjecture what I might be looking at?

Thanks!

pschiffe

My experience with leased vehicles (non-Lexus) has been that dealers will overlook most anything if you are buying or leasing another vehicle from them. Otherwise, they charge for every little scratch etc. One such encounter with a local Lincoln/Mercury dealer soured me on leasing forever! I hope your transaction is more successful.

Pete

aveghte

At the end of my wife's RX300 lease we were able to negotiate a purchase price that was several thousand dollars lower than the residual (e.g. close to the book value). It doesn't hurt to ask your leasing company about whether or not this is possible. I think it costs them a significant amount of money to prepare the car for sale and then pay somebody to sell it so you might be able to work something out if you want to keep the car.

gteach26

pschiffe..

 

I was worried about that same thing when it came to lease turn in's but I found a way to get the excess wear and tear dragon off my back...

 

I simply tell them that I'm REAL close to leasing again with that current dealership BUT I'm still undecided as to what car I want and that I need a few days to think about it. Do you think they'll nickel and dime me on my lease turn-in if they have a potential future customer on their hands? Nah.

 

Once a week or two goes by (and after 27 calls from the salesman) I just tell them I found another vehicle.

 

Perhaps that makes me an "inconsiderate customer" but that's a topic for another board!

tccc

OEM tire specs. call for 225/70-16. I am interested in the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo. The size available is 235/70-16...Is this ok to use? The tire retailer said no problem, as long as there is no tire rubbing. Anyone have any opinions?

vcheng

...235/65-16, they will be a closer fit to theOEM size than the 235/70-16 size that your retailer is saying.

johnston94

My 2000 RX has the occasional hard start as described in post 8316 & 8318 as an idle air control valve problem: On cold start will only start/idle with gas pedal assistance.

 

Happened about once a month over the last 6 months. Keep it running until engine temp rises, then all is OK.

 

Anyone have first-hand experience servicing the idle air control valve on a 2000 RX?

 

Lexus repair manual description includes draining radiator, removing throttle body, replacing throttle body gaskets.

 

I'd like to hear from someone who's been there, done that.

 

Thanks.

gman99

Has anyone changes the gas filter on their RX300? The dealer says that it is in the tank and requires no servicing but I'm thinking that it should be serviced eventually.

 

Any ideas on how difficult/easy this is and the price of the filter?

 

I believe you can get access to the filter by removing the rear seat.

 

Thanks

fantom

Either size will work well. Check out the Dueler H/L....a much better tire in my experience. 30,000 miles and going strong!

mikey00

Does anyone who has done their own brakes know if the 01 RX has wear indicators on the original pads? I have a new set of Lexus pads from Irontoad and only see the indicators on the rear pads. They are set so you should hear them when you get down to 2/32 of pad. I now have 71k and was waiting to hear the indicators before changing the pads. Today I pulled a front and rear wheel to check pad wear and found I have 3/32 of pad left but I don't see any wear indicators on the front or rear pad. If I do the math I have 15K left before metal on metal. Can't complain about that. Lexus sure does have great wearing pads. Anyway I guess I will be changing them next week.

bentwrench

These are exact symptoms I had on my 2000 & cured by cleaning the idle air control valve. I don't remember exactly how I did it, but it was quite easy and definitely did not require radiator drain, etc. I recall removing the air filter cover,disconnecting one or two wire connectors,loosenening a few screws and taking out the bifurcated(one branches into two)corrugated duct which connects the air cleaner to the two throttle inlets. You will see a small well inside the aft inlet, directly below the throttle butterfly. This chamber, when the IACV is open, allows enough metered air for idling to bypass the throttle valve. I believe you can remove a screw on the outside and at the bottom of the throttle body to remove the IACV for cleaning. I did not do this, I just sprayed some carborator cleaner into the well to fill the well and let it evaporate for a minute. Then re-assembled and it has run fine since. I recall it running fast for the first few seconds as it was burning unmetered carb cleaner. Don't let this scare you.