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Comments
I don't think changing the fluid more often will be an effective effort.
The fluid is being "cooked" because something within the transmssion is over-heating. My guess is that that "something" is the bands and clutch surfaces because they are still not fully engaged as the engine builds RPMs and torque when the gas pedal is unexpectedly(***) and agressively depressed.
***The firmware in the transmission ECU is not downshifting from 3rd(?) to first until the vehicle comes to a full and complete stop. Accelerating just before coming to a full stops results in the need to quickly shift from 3rd(?) to 1st, all while the engine is already reacting to a (fully?) open throttle valve.
Except in the 04 or later with an e-throttle. In that case the engine ECU chooses not to "see" the open(ing) throttle until the transmission has shifted into 1st and the bands and clutches are fully seated. That very like takes more than 1.2 seconds, the time the shop manual says it take to shift from neutral when you first move the shifter to D, drive.
Same problem with/during coastdown, the RX transmission upshifts from 3rd to 4th (according to the 01 AWD Lexus shop manual) during coastdown, and now if you suddenlyn decide to accelerate the transmission must quickly shift from 4th to 3rd, or maybe even to 2nd, and while the engine is already building torque....
Except on the 04 or later models with e-throttle.
Also, what is the Battery Group for this vehicle?
Diehard Gold P/N 22833035 with no problems. The
invoice says it is a Group 35 battery. They
charged $9.99 for battery check and new istallation and the batttery was $79.99. I was
in sub-zero weather in Vermant a few days later and it started right up.
Hope I have the same good fortune as you.
Thanks again.
Thanks,
Mike
I followed Bent's procedure to service the idle air control valve from post 8406 but the problem persisted. (2000 RX will only start/idle with gas pedal assistance)
So I took it a step further and disassembled and cleaned the accessible portion of the IAC without removing the entire IAC from the throttle body.
Here are the steps to service the idle air control valve on my 2000 RX:
1. Unsnap metal clips to release air filter cover.
2. Loosen hose clamp and remove corrugated duct from air filter cover.
3. Loosen 2 hose clamps on the throttle inlet ends of the same bifurcated corrugated duct and remove the ducts from the throttle inlets. I did not disconnect any electrical wiring during steps 1-3. I was able to move the parts aside to proceed to step 4 without disconnecting any wiring.
4. Inside the aft inlet, at the bottom you will see an open well leading to the IAC valve mounted directly below. The original procedure ended here with spraying carb cleaner into the well and reassembling. Since this did not free the sticking IAC valve for me, I added the following:
5. You will see 2 phillips-head screws mounted horizontally just below the aft inlet. The screws secure a black plastic cover. Remove these 2 screws, then remove the black plastic cover being careful not to lose the black rubber O-ring seal and a flat metallic shim beneath the cover.
6. With the cover removed, you will see a metal shaft terminated with a round metallic knob. Rotating this shaft opens/closes the IAC valve. The range of motion for this shaft is not a full 360 degrees. You will be able to feel the valve open and close, although you can't see what's going on on the other end of the shaft as you turn it.
7. At this point I sprayed a good deal of carb cleaner into the well from above inside the aft inlet while rotating the IAC shaft back and forth. Expect the carb cleaner to run down through the well and out along the shaft and drip out. Don't be in a hurry here. Let the carb cleaner work and keep rotating the IAC shaft.
8. Reinstall everything in reverse sequence and start the engine.
The engine will run rough at first while the carb cleaner is present.
It's been over a week since I did this and the hard start/won't idle problem has not returned.
Mike
Steve, Host
Thanx,
Phil
Pete
I have a Chrysler Pacifica and my wife hates the blind spots so much that it's time to get rid of it. I love the car but it's the family hauler so I do what she says. :-)
I'm in Iraq right serving with the USAF now but I'll be back in the summer and I am considering trading the Pacifica in and buying a 2000-2001 RX300 instead. Does anyone have an opinion about blind spots with this vehicle? Maintenance costs? I would like to buy the 2000 since it will be cheaper and I'll take a hit on the Pacifica. We are also the type that put 15K miles on a car a year. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Phil
Pete
First, let me say thank you for your service to our country. I wish you a safe return home.
I have a 2001 RX-300 that I purchased new. Other than a recall for a cupholder replacement, in 4 years and 47000 miles the vehicle has NEVER, I repeat, NEVER been back to the dealer for any repairs. I do my own oil changes and maintenance, and the gas mileage, ride, and overall driving experience is the best I have ever had, and it is my THIRD Lexus vehicle !
FWIW, I am getting ready to replace it since I tend to trade my vehicles every 4 years or so. I also have a transferrable bumper-to-bumper Lexus Platinum extended warranty (no deductible) and LoJack.
If you send me an e-mail and I can tell you about my experiences with my RX-300.
Thanks and please be safe...
Ed
e-mail: phula11231@yahoo.com
That would tend to defeat the purpose of a message forum which is to share information and experiences. Stick around and enjoy the conversation! :-)
tidester, host
I checked the fuse (39) and it is ok. How is the washer pump accessed? The reservoir bottle seems hidden under the hood. I would like to check the pump with 12 volts to see if it is ok.
We own a '99 RX 300 with 106,000 miles. This past Friday my husband was driving it and the RPMs started to suddenly increase by 1000 increments (without us accelerating). Has anyone had this type of problem? This happened to me too. Even if I was driving slow, the RPMs suddenly jumped, then dropped back down. I hope it is nothing serious!
Any feedback is appreciated. Thanks.
When the A/C clutch is engaged the engine ECU automatically adds a tad more power to compensate for the additional load.
If the load isn't there.....
Try thoroughly lubricating the antenna segments with Teflon® synthetic grease. TriFlo is one brand.
Pete
This sounds very familiar to what I'm going through. I also own a 99' RX300 with 74k miles on it. My RPMs have been increasing - usually around 40 mph goes is at 3 when I go faster the rpms go higher. Does your engine feel like it is straining - not shifting down? Does your check engine light come on? Does it correct itself while you are driving and/or do you need to turn your car off before it will correct? I'm experiencing all of the above. I'm really hoping it's not my transmission. I don't have the problem all the time - comes and goes.
Thanks!
ECU is Electronic Control Unit, usually a microprocessor, in this case the one that controls the engine operation.
If you were sitting parked with the engine at idle and the compressor clutch were to suddenly engage the engine might very well stall as a result of the sudden extra load.
Instead, the controller that is about to engage the compressor clutch "tells" the engine ECU and that ECU "boosts" the fuel/air mixture at just about the same time, or slightly before, the A/C clutch is engaged.
If the clutch doesn't engage "as planned" the engine revs will rise dramatically until the engine ECU "figures out" that the expected A/C load didn't happen.
If that isn't an accurate description of you problem and it is more like the engine just not being able to hold steady RPMs, it could be the Mass Air Flow Sensor or the Idle Air Control Valve. You also mentioned the check engine light. A read out of the code should give you a better indication of the failure.
2001 RX300 models, for certain, have c-best options that allow you to take more control of the A/C.
Model: AWD, Navigation, Wood Wheel, White Gold Crystal color
Miles today: 79K
Repairs/Issues
- The "D" light is out
- The antenna stopped working around 65,000 mi
- The key broke -- begged Lexus who finally replaced it after the warranty expired.
- The drivers heated seat back stopped working, but was repaired under warranty when a new seat bottom was installed, also under warranty (premature leather cracking)
- resurfaced rotors at 75K due to loud squeaking; problem solved
- replaced two burned out bulbs in rear (one stop and one tail)
- roof rack matte black paint is starting to chip off
All in all, not too bad of service. Speaking of service, with the exception of the 60K service, all service has been performed at the Toyota dealer. The most recent service was a change of accessory drive belts AND timing belt plus oil change and transmission drain and fill..$322 out the door.
- No brake pads yet
- Overall mileage about 18.5 mpg
After a good cleaning over the weekend, it looks great!
Model: FWD, Trac
Miles: 84K
Repairs/Issues
- "D" light, replaced myself following instructions found on this forum
- Antenna, lubricated shaft with Teflon® synthetic grease, still working
- Key, same experience, but original type aftermarket keyblanks are now available to locksmiths and OEM look replacement keys can now be had on the street for about $40.00
- Replaced brakes and tires at 50K
- Couple of brake light bulbs replaced
Superb experience, finest vehicle I've ever owned. I too have taken it to a Toyota dealer for service since the warranty expired. Very competitive price and most satisfactory. Get everything but the quick-and-dirty car wash and tire rotation for about $100 less than the Lexus store.
Pete