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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • brokenallbrokenall Posts: 9
    First check on helper side under the glove box
    you see an ovale connector with 4 wire on
    disconnect the connector and check the third connector must be burn
    small wire terminal is stock on GM dealer
    Second: on the heater housing (where the connector was placed) you have a think call blower resistor remove the 2 screw (one each side ) and check if the any resistor (curl wire ) broke or in the resistor you got a diode (must be blow)
    if there one those thing broke , change the resistor aroud 15.00 $ /auto part
    or 45.00$ GM dealer
    hope everything help you
  • brokenallbrokenall Posts: 9
    Check on your Rear driver side door ther is a rubber tube where the wire pass trouw
    wire must be cut inside
    check all wire
    remove your rear door panel and remove one clip (one who hold the harness)
    when you open the door wire inside is to short and broke
    there 6 wire check them all 2 for the door switch
    2 for speakers and two other for belt tensionner
    if this one is broke air bag goes on

    hope that help ypu

  • brokenallbrokenall Posts: 9
    ther a recall from gm
    if you have missfire or bad idle
    there is a problem with valve seat
    Gm replaced the head and job at no charge
    check at any Gm sevice
  • tmumseytmumsey Posts: 1
    Breaks on or off have nothing to do with the Air Bag system. There is a trigger in the front of the truck responsible for firing the air bag. In some instances, the angle of the impact fails to give this device enough force to trigger it. But more likely, it was just a bad sensor. In a '95, it's been exposed to the environment for 13 years. Moisture, and especialy if combined with salt (snow belt??) can cause the parts to just short out, causing the trigger voltage to short to ground through the corrosion.

    Just a thought, The mechanic spoke as an expert, without knowledge on this subject??? Try another mechanic!! :surprise:
  • bummed4bummed4 Posts: 1
    I took my 2005 colorado truck in with the same problem today. Here is the bad news it will cost me 150.00 bucks to repair. They have to replace some sort of resistor , switch and the electrical wiring harness. They tell me there is a short that occurs in the wireing and it ends up melting the harness. The GM certified mechanic told me this is a problem that they have with colorado's and trailblaizers which I have one of those as well. The repair time is about one hour.
  • brokenallbrokenall Posts: 9
    you may write to the wrong member
    i spoke about the wire cut on rear door (ext cab) the belt trigger wire was cut on rubber cover (open circuit on belt tensionner )air bag light on
    second im not an expert like you said , but the air bag device need decelleration in an amount of time
    bettwen 0.4 to 4.0 G in less than 0.65 second
    i got a driver driving a Chevrolet silverado 2500 4x4 2007 who lost control on a gravel road at 70MPH
    hit a rock, lost the front right suspention and tire goes off , jump 15 feet in the air and finish is ride on pine tree. The front frame was bed 5 inch to the right, the rear differential goes off the center pin, the rear frame was bend enough, the rear box broke the rear glass NO air bag deploy ,you know why
    the GM tech came at your shop an scan the ecm
    answer : not enough deceleration in time required
    You talk about force i think there enough force there to bent the truck but not enough to deploy the air bag

  • I have this same problem. I am currently having a small electrical problem. Something is draining my battery while I have it parked overnight and I always have to get a jump. I went to the auto parts store and had my alternator and battery tested and they said those were both good. Have you heard of any problems of something draing that is not supposed to be on but is.
  • kyeaterkyeater Posts: 1
    DOes anyone else have this problem. My airbag light is on and won't turn off. I also have problem with my truck just shutting off completely while I am driving on the highway or anywhere. Everything just locks up and the brakes are hard to push in and the steering wheel is hard to turn. I have ti stop completely and put it in park to turn the engine back on. i am the only owner of this truck.
  • Yes had same problem on my 2004 Colorado.. Took it to dealership and they found a short in the resistor and the conneter..imagaine that.. about 140.00 to fix (just to let you know) Hope this helps..
  • Ok. Here is the answer to most all of the electrical issues with these vehicles. If you get them early you can do a quick fix and keep from having worse issues. The ground to all of your electric motors must be check and I am installing new. Most of the electric motors have plastic housings or are mounted to plastic. They have a ground wire going to each motor. If you loose 1 ground that motor will find a ground through someplace else. Note: this is very important because on an electric motor as you loose the ground the voltage decreases. The motor is still trying to turn so the current goes up. As the current goes up, heat builds up and over heats the connections. Melting the connectors and creating more resistance causing the voltage to drop more and so on. The grounding circuit goes everywhere so don't think that your electric window motors won't affect other parts of the car. Here is a list of some electric motors in your truck or car: Blower motor, window motors, electric seat motors, Windshield wiper motor and ABS Motor. The one I have found to be the most likely to need repair is the Windshield wiper motor. I hope this helps and if I can help let me know.

  • I have an 04 canyon. Battery was dead one morning. Tried to jump it but it wouldn't hold a charge so I replaced the battery. Truck started up but the battery light came on. Figured it was the alternator so I replaced that. Battery light still came on. I returned the alternator and had the original bench tested. It was good. putting out plenty of voltage. The new battery was recharged because it was totally drained. So, now what? Is it a bad ground wire some where or something else?
  • I had all these electrical problems last summer, BCM, battery, resistor in the blower fan, the blower fan itself. There was a "service bulletin" to replace the fuse block which they found had some burn marks on it. Very kind of them to replace that for free. I'm guessing, but I think that was the 'problem' that burned out everything else that Chevy charged me to replace.

    Totaled over $800 in repairs over 2 months. They covered nothing but the fuse block. Good business sense there... I will never buy another Chevy product.
  • The problem is that if you are reading this than the damage has begun. Find a good Auto electric shop and ask is they will check your grounding circuits. The cost will be worth it. Or trade the vehicle in for something else. I have been an GM person for a long time. But with all the issues I have seen with the grounding problems, I'm going to Honda or Toyota.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Going for them for what, to fix your Chevy?

    If you are referring to buying one of those what are you going to do when you have a problem with your new Japanese car/truck? Look at their forum they have issues as well.

    You will have Hyundai, Volvo, BMW, and a few other brands left if you keep abandoning brands.
  • is there a diagnostic test I can do myself to pinpoint the problem?
  • gthfishgthfish Posts: 8
    I have a 2004 colorado and the airbag light came on and would not go off. I took in to the dealer and they quoted me an estimate of $110.83.The problem was a shorted wire under the drivers seat, which they replaced or repaired.
    I also complained to the manager about this problem that this was a mfgr. material defect or a workmanship problem because I faithfully had my truck serviced every 3 months and only had 15,046 miles on my odometer and no reason to do anything under the seat, plus the warranty had expired 2 months prior.
    The manager called back 2 hrs. later and said they will not charge for the repair after talking to customer service at GM Headquarters. Thank Goodness
  • gthfishgthfish Posts: 8
    Thanks brokenail for your answer and your time, appreciate your reply..gary
  • gthfishgthfish Posts: 8
    Thanks trigger, took it to the dealer too, and they charged me $ 180.00
  • I fixed it!!! Thanks for all the info. come to find out it was the damn 100 amp mega fuse. So, if anyone ever has a problem with your battery light staying on, don't kill yourself trying to find a short. replace the mega fuse.
  • chevy seems to have more problems than gm, that's all
    everyone has problems! Also, tacoma and frontier is out selling like crazy compare to colorado and canyon
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    Yes, and I would bet they advertise on TV more than Chevy does with the Colorado. Good marketing sells vehicles and people are quick to believe everything they see on TV like the Tacoma falling off a hill or floating to shore from the ocean with no damage.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Reminds me of a ad on TV featuring Discount Tire. They still use the ad today where they say if you aren't satified with one of their tires bring it back and they show this old woman throwing it through a plate glass window. Well you guessed it. But the person was arrested and prosicuted.
  • poncho167poncho167 Posts: 1,178
    I bet a good lawyer could have gotten him out of that one. That's pretty funny.
  • Help! Both my head lamps and turn signals are inoperative. My technician checked the fuses/relays and replaced the head lamp switch and nothing has changed. (I purchased this retired unit from General Electric Leasing Company who had it in service with the Union Pacific Railroad.) I assume whoever removed the communication equipment, spotlights, and beacon shorted something out? Also, the ABS, battery light, and check engine light are all on.
  • Help! Both my head lamps and turn signals are inoperative. My technician checked the fuses/relays and replaced the head lamp switch and nothing has changed. (I purchased this retired unit from General Electric Leasing Company who had it in service with the Union Pacific Railroad.) I assume whoever removed the communication equipment, spotlights, and beacon shorted something out? Also, the ABS, battery light, and check engine light are all on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    We heard you the first time. My question is did you bother to check out this car before you bought it? If they truly shorted something out as you suggest then this tells me that you didn't do your job and now you going to have to pay the piper, or in this case a qualified electical person. I'd take it to a big Chevy dealer who is used to working on these vehicles not some garage mechinic that has never worked on this car before.
  • My door lock problem is different than any I've seen here. Here are my symptoms:

    1. Both key fobs will lock the doors but not unlock them.
    2. The inside switch locks and unlocks the doors just fine.
    3. When the key fob unlock button is pressed, the lights blink like it is going to unlock the doors but they don't unlock.
    4. When you remove the key from the ignition, it does not unlock the doors like it used to.
    5. If you use the key to unlock the doors without first pressing the unlock button on the key fob then the horn starts beeping. You have to press the unlock button then use the key.
    6. All other electrical functions are normal - lights, windows, etc.

    What do you think? BCM? If so, is there a way to check it and/or repair it? Anyone have a schematic of the beast or for that matter, a wiring diagram that's better than my Hayne's manual wiring diagram ( sucks ). How does the dealer check problems like this being that it's not throwing any codes on my code reader?
  • This issue's symptoms are very similar to what happened to my Corvette, as well as a few others of us on one of the Corvette discussion sites. If it is indeed the same problem, and the Canyon uses the same circuitry as the 'Vette, here's what has happened. A relay on the circuit board that controls the "lock", "unlock", and one other thing, that escape me at the moment, has gone bad.

    On the 'Vette, this board is in a plastic housing behind the door panel. Thanks to a member of the Corvette web site, I was able to repair the circuit board for under $5. (Well, actually it cost me a little more, because I had to purchase a de-soldering tool)
  • So you are a professional used car buyer? When your name is on my sign you can tell me how to run my dealer business.
  • Thanks leadfoot4.

    I'm not positive but I think those relays that you are talking about might be in the switch assembly in the door panel on the Colorado. I'll remove the switch assembly tonight and disassemble it to see.

    I'll post my finding here.

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