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Chevy Colorado and GMC Canyon Electrical Problems



  • RU saying that the fuse was bad even though it was good? Here's my problem and it has been noted before. I have a ground somewhere on the positive side of my electrical system. It drains the battery in about 2 days. It blows no fuses and melts no wires. Here was my analysis attempt. I charged the battery and pulled the red lead off. I put a meter in line between the positive post and the red lead and sure enough it reads voltage (it shouldn't of course but that indicates a ground.) I then pulled the cover off the fuse box. I pulled every fuse and relay, one at a time. The voltage on the meter never dropped. How the heck can that happen? Isn't every circuit fused? But now that you mentioned the 100 amp mega fuse at the entrance to the fuse box it makes me wonder. my mega fuse is good or at least it reads continuity.
  • mikeyrmikeyr Posts: 2
    Hey Webman,

    Not sure if you got your part number, but I believe it is GM PART # 25779767. I don't believe you need to program it, but am not sure and would like to know that myself. I can send you a link to a form were a number of people have bought and replaced it.
  • :shades: Hello single mom dont listen to the guy with a chip on his shoulder with the last reply. The colorado does not come with a book its a dvd. But anyway just have all the fluids changed trany. Flush the radiator and you can but dont need to have the transfer case oil changed. The oil change should be every 3000 miles you also can go with the 5000 mile oil. If you are really bad about changing the oil use 50/50 half sinthedic oil. Its a better oil last longer and does not break down as fast. Go to a oil change place like jiffy lube and thy will put a sticker in the window so you will know when to change the oil again. Hope this helped. steve
  • I have an 04 colorado and the wipers will not shut off. I am thinking there is a wiper module or something that runs them that needs to be replaced but I cannot find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • hi i have a 2005 canyon i was driving along and i put my charger in the auxillary power outlet, then all of a sudden my turn signals stopped working as well as my forward high beams, the light for the 4 way, and the light for the heater controls. somtimes when i pull back on the high beams everything will come back and if i plugg something in it will go off again and sometimes even when i just start the truck up after it is off this happens, any insite?
  • gbohegbohe Posts: 1
    My 2005 chevy colorado started idling rough and burning alot of gas, after I hit a deep pot hole driving about 8mph. Will not stay running when I first start it in the morning unless you constantly mash the gas pedal. I took it to Auto Zone they hook it up to a diagnostic reader, it showed 3 different code numbers all having something to do with a vacuum leak. I have 88000 miles on the truck warranty ran out how do I find the leak.
  • I have a 2008 GMC Canyon SLT crew cab 4wd, and I have exactly the same problem you described. I have no idea as to a fix, sorry. Maybe as we add to this web site someone will take note. Two 2008 trucks doing the exact same thing as this cannot be a fluke.
  • Had the same problem with a 2004 Colorado. Here is how to fix it. Pull the bulb out of the socket and take a small file ( I used my multi-tools smallest screw driver blade) and scrape the carbon build up off of the connectors inside the socket. You may also have to pry out the wire on the bulb socket about a 16th of an inch. I have to do this about two or three times a year.
  • I went out to my truck today to find the battery dead, after realizing the interior light wouldn't shut off after closing the door. I charged up the battery and started the truck only to find the DIC saying that the doors were ajar. I ran around the truck shutting every door, I have an extended cab and still the message on the DIC won't disappear and the interior light won't shut off. Any suggestions or ideas on what could be causing this? I
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    Let me ask the dumb question first. Do you have the interior light switch turned on and you are just thinking it has something to do with the doors? Wouldn't be the first time so double check the light switch to make sure it is in the off position.
  • No, I have the turn wheel all the way down as low as it can go so that the lights inside the vehicle would be dim and so that the interior light isn't clicked on. The reason why I think it has something to do with the doors is since the DIC on the truck has the DOORS message displayed however all the doors are securely shut. I shut the dome light off manually last night by hitting the manually dome override button on the truck but that only keeps the light off its not helping get rid of the message on the DIC, and since it thinks the doors are open it wants to keep the interior light on.
  • dmathews3dmathews3 Posts: 1,739
    You could take off the neg. cable on the Battery for a minute or two and see if this resets everything.
  • I had the same problem occur about 4 years ago, with my '05 Canyon. The light switch, located at the bottom of the door jamb, has gone bad, causing the lights to stay on, and the computer to think the door is open. Replace the switch and you'll be OK.
  • Not sure if this will help, but....
    I had to slam on the breaks 'cause of an idiot in a van3 years ago. All of a sudden my 05 was running rough and backfiring. Got warning notice on dash. OnStar said ok to drive but to take right to dealer. Dealear did a diag and there was a problem with the device that adjusts the valve timing. The computer changes valve timing on the fly I think. They changed it and my gas milage went UP!! I was getting 14/19. Now, and this is NO BULL.... I'm getting 17 - 18 in town and 24 to 25 on the open road. Drove to Fla from NJ and back twice. Even running at 75 mph I was seeing 23 mph. I"m happy - Oh, it's the I-5 engine.
  • 2006 colorado i have same problem as message 248 of 257 when this was happening pull light switch back and dash liights will come back on i am thinking bad switch
  • I have an 04 crew cab with the exact same passenger door problem. If you bang on the inside of the door or pull on the glass it will work. Any help is appreciated! I hate to buy a new window motor and find I still have the problem
  • I just changed the original battery in my 04 Colorado and now the driver side window does not work. The passenger side window and all door locks still work. Quite odd. I will scream if the window motor went out because of a battery change. I did hear sounds (like motors moving) when I connected the new battery. Anyone else had this problem? I am going to try to disconnect and reconnect the battery later.
  • I have a 2004 colorado crew cab with the same problem with the locks and drivers window. On dec 26th I decided time for a new battery and which I replaced and that's when this problem started. Could this problem come from just disconnecting the terminals?
    Well thanks to HopeGMC it's working again. I took it apart and looked at everything and things looked OK so I tapped the relay and put everything back togather and wow it worked. A GMC/ Chevy repair......
    My hats off to HopeGMC thanks alot. What is the BCM and TSB. Just for reference I might need later. Thanks again... ZIPY

    Hope this helps. This was a year ago for me. the relay is like a small aluminum block on the circuit board. Also spray the connectors when putting back togather. Go back and read this on page 15-16-17.
  • well i dont know i if you have fixed this problem yet but i have had my 04 do the same thing all the others work but not the drivers window, after a lot of trial and error i got aggrevated took the posotive cable off the battery and left it for about two hours and like a miracle it worked again, since then i have had to unhook the battery several time to put in upgrades and little trick (stereo, amp, speakers,etc) and everytime the wondow stops working, so i will unook the hot cable for about 2 hours and pretty as you please it will work again, if you have this problem again try this, from what you described i about 95% sure this will fix your problem. good luck
  • I also am having the same issue..I had to put the brakes on pretty hard a few days ago and now the engine is running very rough. This has happened before but it worked itself out..but recently it has gotten worse and will not work itself out. Having it towed today to get looked at.
  • I removed and tapped the PWR/WNDW relay from the box in front of the battery, which I am assuming is the relay you are talking about. If not, let me know. Sprayed and replaced and no change. Thanks for the input. I'll try anything that sounds like it has a chance. Next, I am going to try disconnecting the positive cable for a couple hours as tyrod is suggesting below.
    Thanks Again!
  • Tyrod-
    Thanks for the input, but this didn't work for me either. I left it disconnected overnight and reconnected it in the morning. No change. No driver side window or lock. The passenger side window will still operate from the driver side, but nothing else. Other thoughts?
  • Please refer to my previous postings #197 and #208. This is a very common problem with Chevrolet Colorados. Hopefully, these will help.
  • deweesdewees Posts: 2
    The clicking when you turn may be that the fluid in the pumpkin needs replaced with a synthetic. I had that happen and they replaced the fluid with the synthetic and it stopped immediately.
    Battery needs replaced. I just went through the same exact thing. New battery, New day to drive!!
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    If the passenger side works from the driver side then the only thing it can be is a broken window button or disconnected/broken wire to the button in the passenger door.

    You have power to the door and the winder because it works from the driver side. Using the passenger button doesn't work, therefore... the passenger side is not completing the circuit. Rip it open and check the wires. Replace the button even if you can make a test circuit, it might not be enough to move the winder. Careful cos the winder pulls some juice :)

    Colorado's seem to have been undersized in the loom causing melted wires and shorts all over, dead blowers, winders, blownout stereo lights, ugly wife... you name it. ;)
  • Oddly, my passenger side window works from both sides. Neither of the door lock buttons work. The drivers side window does not work. Even more odd, I found another issue today. My keyless entry remote will not lock the doors, but it thinks they are locked. A passenger got in the passenger side through an unlocked "locked" door. The truck thought they were locked, but they weren't So, the alarm goes off. Luckily I was able to "lock" it again with the keyless entry and "unlock" it to shut the alarm off. What's next? Oh... The "Battery" warning started coming on again today. Nice..... :sick:
  • AlennxAlennx Posts: 20
    Always buy American... oh you did. Hmmm.

    The differential for this diagnosis is:
    1. The windows are not on the same circuit as the locks.
    2. The driver's side window circuit is not completing. First, place an axe in the footwell near the pedals in full view of the driver's door. Now check the window fuses, you may have one for each side. Carefully remove the driver's door inside panel and wiggle the wires from the driver's side window button in both directions while operating the button. Look for melting, scorching, breaks, water damage, etc. The axe will act as a form of incentive for the vehicle to be helpful.
    3. Your keyless entry doesn't sense the position of the locks (it would be German if it did that) but instead it simply knows that you pressed the "lock" button on the remote, so it armed the entry-sensor. Check the fuse for the power-locks and the signal wire from the remote-sensor to the lock-popper.
    4. Why is it cheaper than Honda or Toyota? "Because it's a Chevy" :lemon:
    5. To be fair, I've crashed my '05 Colorado twice and all it needed was realignment and a new front bumper I changed out myself.
  • Yepper: 2004 Colorado ex -cab , Drivers door window stuck in down position and drivers side power door locks do not work. Key less entry does not work. Passenger side window works from both sides. I guess I am the last one this is happening too. 2010 Jan , 13th . Unreal Local G.M dealership never heard of this problem. Just called them . No help at all. $81.00 an hour to check it out. Took door panel apart , wires look good. Took control panel apart ; looks o.k as well. No burnt wires. Unhooked battery now and waiting a few hours before I hook them back up. I don't think it will cure it but I must try. I do the the terminals touching to discharge BCM . Fan motor sometimes doesn't work in alll positions all of the time . I must wiggle the knob. Are there any real fixes to this B.S yet? :(
  • leadfoot4leadfoot4 Posts: 593
    "Dewees", it's my understanding that the Canyon/Colorados come from from the factory with synthetic oil already in them. I usually change the diff oil in my vehicles about a year after I get them, and when I checked what the owner's manual said, it called out synthetic lube. Therefore, I assume that's what's already in there....
  • Well, I had the same issue a couple years ago. I'm not sure if you went through all the old posts but here's an update.

    It's a common problem with these Colorados and Canyons. The FOB and driver's window stops working and the battery goes dead. The dealer replaced my BCM (Body Control Module) for a few hundred that did nothing. They also "mentioned" there was a service bulletin on the fuse block which had scorch marks. They found out the battery was shot too. During their testing they stressed the blower resistor which fried the next day. All told, about $800 in repairs.

    Since then (summer 2007) everything has worked fine, no more issues. The bottom line, this is what it looks like. There is some problem with the fuse block. I don't know if it is poorly designed, but my guess is it fries for some reason. Possibly too much of a load on the powerpoints, poor grounding ( read that earlier in these threads) or I've also read the alternator is too animic. I get the impression that the electrical system of the truck is not up to snuff and for whatever reason, the fuse block fries and takes the other stuff (BCM, battery etc) with it.

    Replace the fuse block (which was covered by Chevy) and everything, at least on my truck has been ok. My rub is that it seems logical that the fuse block fried the other stuff, but Chevy wouldn't cover the other expenses. I will never buy another Chevy product even if, through Obama I'm now a "part owner" after their bankruptcy. Personally I would have let them burn. They obviously make crappy products and don't stand behind them. The dealer was pretty good about it, but it's interesting that Chevy still takes the line of "never seen this before" given all the activity in this thread.

    Other issues to watch out for are the tail light sockets are poorly designed and over time need to have the prongs bend back to make contact. I have a fog light I have to rap on in order to get it to work. The cable for it is so short it's virtually impossible to turn it to get it out of the socket. I replaced it, but it has the same problem. The solution is I have to have the lights on, get out of the truck and rap on the light and it will work... for a while.

    Also don't forget about the head needing to be replaced. If you don't know about this one, definitely do some searching on it. There is a problem in the 2004-06's where the valve seats weren't hardened enough and the cylinders go flat on compression. The entire head needs to be replaced. This one Chevy does cover to 100K miles, but expect about three weeks of down time. They usually have to pull the motor because the timing chain slips and they need to reset it. There is a tool to hold it, but it usually doesn't work. If it's not covered under the warrantee, it's about a $3500 fix.

    I'll say after that one summer of hell with the truck, everything has been working pretty well. I have 120K miles on it, but I live in fear of when I'll have the "other stuff", the instrument panel, the lighting etc starts to fail on it.
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