I have a 99 Rodeo that used to be my stepfather's... I've noticed recently that the gearshift keeps sticking. I put my foot on the brake and go to shift from park and it won't budge. It's gotten to the point now where I need to turn the car off, put it in accessory, then shift to neutral, start the car, and THEN shift to reverse or drive. It's really irritating. Does anyone have any idea why it may be doing that? And... about how much do you think it would cost to get it fixed? Please e-mail a reply if you wouldn't mind. Thanks.
Replacing the fuel cap with correct dealer part or stant locking cap, then you take it back to dealer or repair garage and have them recheck and reset the ck eng light correctly, make sure mech. is exp. working on Isuzu s, good luck. Rodderacer.
In my 2000 Isuzu Rodeo, the 4X4 recently stopped engaging. When I hit the dash board button to turn the 4-wheel on I can still hear a click like it is trying to engage, but the light just continues to blink on the dash and the front two wheels never engage. Does anyone know where I should start to look for the problem?
I have a '98 Isuzu Rodeo. I purchased it used in 2004 and have had so many problems. After almost $6000 of repairs, some of the issues are still present and the rest are still there. Over heats, sometimes will not turn over, engine light comes on frequently, at times stalls when I take my foot of the break. The RPM's go to nothing when I take my foot off the gas. Replaced: starter, radiator 2 times, fuel pump, all hoses 2 and 3 times, on my second battery, 2 horns, etc. I had it towed to a Isuzu dealer once it was there...after 3 weeks, they could not find anything wrong. More more more more..... Does anyone have any suggestions besides running it off a cliff? Thanks!
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto!! I want answers too!! I have a 98' Rodeo and have had many of the same problems. I also was having the issue where i'd take my foot off the gas and the RPM's drop to almost nothing and sometimes stall. I ended up getting all 6 fuel injectors replaced as well as the fuel pressure regulator and the idle air control valve. But it still happens!! I have been to 4 mechanics who cannot find a thing. Now my power steering went out and it costing me almost $1,000! I have put $7,000 of mechanical work into a $7,000 car! AAAHHH. Do I just need to sell the thing or what?!?!?
I have a 2001 Rodeo that has had a few problems as of late. It stated off with my check engine light blinking at me when I would go over 1,600 RPM' s. I looked around the engine and saw that the coolant overflow was bone dry. I did not see any drips under the car or see any leaking. So I filled it up to max, then the light went out. I checked it again a couple of days later and it was dry again with no puddles or dripping. I too it in and had a pressure test done and it came out ok.
So two weeks after that stated my timing belt jumped and sheered off parts to the cam shaft. Two weeks and $2700 later I get the car back, it runs a little rough at times when I am at a stop light and the light starts blinking again when I hit 1,600 RPM’s. I take it back to have them look at it again and they find that it needs new spark plugs, the fuel system needs a cleaning and my intake manifold needs to be replaced. They tell me this might fix the problem but are not sure. After I had them clean the fuel system I picked it up and now the light is always on and blinks when I hit 1,200 RPM’s.
Has anyone out there had problems like this and if so what was it. I am looking to find out if it would be cheaper for me to get rid of this car before it starts costing more then it is worth. It is in good shape and I have taken care of it otherwise. Thanks for the help.
hello, i bought a 1990 rodeo with the v-6, i live in louisiana and am required to get a yearly insp sticker. the rodeo runs great drives great ect but the cel comes on about 150 to 175 miles after getting reset,and will not go out on its own,it fails the obs test of the inspection,the tester says the obsII shows "not ready"so i cant get the car inspected and there for not road legal,i have read some post on here, this is what i have done,new gas cap,new spark plugs( i did put in bosch platuim +2,did so before reading of a possible problem with the wrong plugs??? not sure if its my year or not),the code read out was 0404 i think at autozone anyway it was supposed to be the gas cap ??but new cap was no help,as noted earlier the light allways comes on between 150 to 175 miles after restting.any help would be great car is great and runs great but i cant drive it as is legally
Try using the original Isuzu plugs (I think they are made by NGK)... you can also pick up this brand at Napa. Also, I had problems with generic gas caps - had to buy the original one from the dealer. Also, you can try adding some fuel cleaner to the gas tank and run the whole tank - CEL is usually related to some sort of emission problems and this might take care of some of them.
If it still doesn't fix it - try having a dealer performing the CEL light test - just make sure you bring it in when the light is on. It should keep a history of what the logs were when light goes off, but it often doesn't. Dealers, i think, use better readers than Autozone does so you might get better luck there.
Hi, I also have a 98 Rodeo. I have had the same problem recently with the drive train trying to catch up. I also have this problem when I stop to start moving again. My rodeo has 155,000 miles and not really had problems beside regular maintenance. My father would disagree because he had a 2000 Rodeo and quickly got rid of it because he said there was way to much going wrong all the time. Maybe I got lucky(smile).
I bought a 4X4 - 2000 Isuzu Rodeo and after six days I run into to so many problems;
1.) The front two (2) wheel wiggle in the first week after I purchase the car and the dealer could not find the cause of wiggle and I was told that maybe the tire is not balance. Finally, after I get outside mechanic, they found the front wheel is not aligned and balance.
2.) After a year the Gas light indicator Lit and my gas meter needle stop on quarter level: I was told by the dealer that I need to ensure and securely close the gas cap to prevent air from coming inside the gas tank and that will be okay after several days. – Then after long annoying waiting time, I bring the car to a mechanic again and found the coil of the float inside the tank is not functioning.
3.) After two and a half (2-1/2) years, while I am driving at the highway, my transmission explodes and loses transmission oil and I was stop in the middle of the highway. The dealers replace the transmission with the remanufactured one – because I was told that my car is already 3 years old and had mileage. So Okay as long as they keep my car running.
4.) Then all interior lights went out and the rear wiper does not function without any warning or indication, I do not know what the cause is; I just found one day it is not working anymore.
5.) Now, after 97,500 miles, I found my car eating engine oil and I fill up my engine one-quart of a gallon every week that cause me an additional of $12 – $15 every 3000 miles before schedule of my oil changes . Again I bring the car to the dealer and the dealer replaces the PC valve and removes carbon to some of the valve and change the oil. I was told that they need to test the engine every 500 miles of the 2000 miles to determine if the engine is really eating oil. After 500 miles I return the car to the dealer to measure the oil and found that oil level lowered by a quarter of the level stick. Again, I was told by the dealer that my car is in good condition and the oil consumption is normal. I was surprised to hear from the dealer that my car is in normal and good condition when my car is polluting the air and burns engine oil. This is ridiculous.
Does any one knows what to do to prevent the engine eating much oil? According to my dealer, Isuzu Manufacturer will not change engine if the consumption is just one quart of a gallon every 500 miles and that is considered normal. This is pathetic.
DO NOT BUY ISUZU RODEO UNLESS YOU WANT PROBLEM LIKE I HAVE
Please email any suggestion at ramos.art2000@gmail.com
1 quart per 1k miles is the amount that is allowed by Isuzu. This is well documented and "normal". I put synthetic oil in and reduced it to 1 quart per 2k miles.
Can't help you w/ your problem, but I totally agree about not buying a Rodeo. I have an 01' Rodeo LSE and my cruise control engages on it's own, if I don't catch it within about 2 seconds and disengage it, the engine dies! Yet nothing ever shows up on the diagnostic check and it never acts up when a tech. is driving it around to try and duplicate the problem. No one has a clue as to what's wrong! Very annoying and extremely unsafe!! :lemon:
Hi, I'm new to this form. I'm trying to remove my manual transmission off of a 95 Rodeo V6.
The orginal problem is that it got stuck in second gear. Meaning that the stick is in neutral and when I let the clutch out it goes and I cannot shift into any other gears other than 5th and reverse but when I do this I cannot move.
So all of my bellhousing bolts are off and the transmission is loose but will not come off. I tried raising it and lowering in different positions but no luck. Also triple checked for any missed bolts. My guess is that it is still connected to the engine via 2nd gear. The only thing I can think to do at this point is mount the slave cylinder and have sombody push on the clutch. While I pull it out until it unlocks then remove the slave.
I have a 2000 Rodeo that does the exact same thing...only it will also cut out. It is like a bucking bronco....with the cruise control. I've had it unhooked, etc. but nothing works.
This car has been nothing but a lemon. A shame becuase I had a Rodeo years ago and it was a gen. :confuse: :mad:
I had the same problem. My Rodeo is a 4x4, so the transfer case is attached to the transmission and makes it that much heavier and harder to handle. My final solution, after making sure everything was unhooked was to attach a come-a-long to the rear axle housing and yank the tranny out that way.
Putting it back in was no picnic, either...the weight of the thing maxed out my jack. I ended up paying a local shop to do it! Some of the best $$ I've ever spent, though!
hi i recently discovered that my check engine lights went off after nearly 3years ,and the secret is never use regular gas. i did everything possible , and some one was asking earlierin the forum about plugs , they are denso plugs isuzu also recomends champion plugs .so good luck and keep it up guys
I actually have a 96 Honda Passport... but all mechanics know it is actually a Rodeo. So having gotten past that issue.... It is over heating. Had dealer do diagnostic, the thermostat, engine temperature sensor, water pump, all check out okay. Radiator is as clean as a whistle, and the fan clutch is working properly. So what in the world is causing the problem?! Oh by the way,... we love our vehicle... has almost 200,000 miles on the engine and still going strong, well, yeah, there is the new perspiration problem... any savvy mechanics out there that may have a solution would be greatly appreciated.
Check shift modual on drivers side of transmission. Could have gummed electric connections inside. Also make sure the shift/gear indicator on dash is illuminated.
I own a 2003 4x4 Rodeo and love it - it's the second one I've owned. Fortunately, I haven't experienced any of the problems I've read so far on this board (fingers crossed!). I love most everything about the vehicle - granted, it's not a luxury vehicle, but I didn't expect it to be. I have 60,000 miles on mine and other than regular maintenance, it's been painless to own.
The only thing I would change is the process for folding down the rear seat - on mine I have to remove the headrests (and store them somewhere), pull up the bottom of the back seats, and fold down the back of the back seats - do this on both sides of the vehicle. Not a huge deal, but would be nice if you could push a lever and have both seats fold down with headrests that tuck under, as some other vehicles do.
All in all, I really do like my vehicle - it's the perfect size for me and I like the fact that it doesn't have a lot of unnecessary plastic parts on the exterior (scoops, flares, etc.).
I am having to replace my rear window hinge on the left side of my 1999 rodeo LSE. I am having a problem getting the hinge from the window. I have inscrewed all the screws to the hinge that is in the window. It is loose but will not come off. I do not want to break the glass at all. What do I need to do to get the hinge off of the glass without breaking it?
I inherited a 2000 rodeo from my dad. Before he passed away, he had alot of work done, including changing timing belt, brakes, etc. He brought it back to dealer two times to say brakes not working. They say, nothing wrong with brakes. I take the car for a drive, brakes fail and I have an accident. I take it to dealer, they say nothing wrong with brakes, HOWEVER, the ABS sensor needs to be replaced. Somebody Help, are they taking me to cleaners by replacing this? And what about my brakes. I know they failed!
I'm having an overheating prob in my 1995 Rodeo Isuzu. I've put in a new thermostat, new radiator to no avail. The fan is "supposedly" working, said a mechanic that wanted $500 for new radiator and labor. So I put in a new radiator and that is not the problem. Can a bad radiator cap have something to do with overheating? Can't imagine what the real problem is now.
Had an overheat blowout one day. A cousin that is an old head mechanic told me that an air bubble gets in the system. I checked, checked and checked the radiator and would add a little coolant when I could. Can't really explain beyond that but I've had no problems since. I have other problems with electrical though. good luck
i have a maintenance manual for the 92 rodeo, but i would like to find better engine diagrams. does anyone know where i can get some? hopefully there are some online i could look at.
My wifes 2000 Rodeo's headlights will occassionally fail to turn on. The parking lights will illuminate when turned on, but the headlights will not. Sometimes while hitting a bump in the road this will also happen. Could it be the switch?? Is this a problem I can tackle myself?? Any idea's on where to start??
The electric door locks will not function as well. I think there is a broken wire in the rubber housing in the door jam. I just cant get to it to repair. Any idea's?? Do I need to remove the entire door(drivers side)??
I take electrical tape and wrap it around the striker of the spare tire carrier - the pin that the latch grabs. It works for a couple months and then the tape has to be replaced. I'm not sure if there is suppose to be rubber on the striker that is missing or not.
I have ordered the fuel desending unit for my 99 rodeo and have found the instructions on the internet. trying to find out how difficult this is to replace? also, any idea how long it will take to get the job done?
I'm considering buying a 1996 Rodeo LS 4WD from a local dealer. According to the ad, it only has 75,196 miles on it (!) but it also comes with a 3 month/4500 mile warranty. It looks great and so many of the other Isuzu Rodeo posts are so positive... The price at the dealer is $3,995, which is right up my alley. All things equal, should I go for it? I don't want to buy it and have to start pouring $$$ into it right away. Thanks for the input!
Just new in this forum. I have electrical problem on my transmission and somebody told me that i need to change the solenoids. My problem was the check transmission light turn on right after i start the engine. When i put it on drive the car does not want to move or i have to rev it before it start to move forward and almost no power. So in this case what solenoid will i change as i believe it has 3 to 4 solenoids. Thanks in advance
I bought a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo about 3 weeks ago. After going not even 2500 miles, it has gone through all the oil, the oil light didn't come on and the engine locked up. Now I have to replace it. Does anyone have any suggestions as to the engine to replace it with. I think the same engine was put into other vehicles such as the Honda Passport, and they could be switched. Can anyone offer any info?
I am having the same problem w/my 2000 rodeo ls. I have talked to the dealership and they informed me that there is a Timing Update for the cars computer (2000-2001) and that they needed to erase the timing specs and reprogram the computer. They said that it might help with the us of high octane gas, spark knocking and hessitaion problems but they are not sure. As far as the thumping feeling I am having that same problem and my mech. have not found out what it is. Oh yeah I forgot when you have your next tune up get the mech. to clean the combustion chamber and intake along with cleaning the pcv valve and relacing it. Also try getting the fuel system cleaned I think its like $110.00 at Firestone or $150.00 at the dealer My Mech said that that may help also. I am planning on getting these things done but I had to change the Timing Belt, Water Pump and some other thing yesterday so I am strapped for cash. But if I get it done first I will let you know how it goes. Also try buying Chevron gas the dealer said that they have the highest AKI(Anti-Knock Index) which is best for this car.
I have a 1995 rodeo and the connection i use to get my code is a 3 prong one i jump the 2 outer terminals and then turn the key on and the services engine lites gives me the codes hope this helps
I have a 2002 Rodeo 4x4 with a v6 engine. When I get on the interstate and go above 70mph, the transmission shifts real hard, then the check transmission light starts flashing and every gear shifts hard. however, if i turn the vehicle off for about 5 min, it will quit doing it! Also, when I let off the gas at highway speeds, the Engine RPM's fall completely off and when I push on the gas pedal again, it takes it a minute to catch up to how fast the car is going......can anyone help?
I made a stop before reaching home last night and when I started the Rodeo, the gas light, battery light and brake light stayed on. I tried restarting several times to see if they would just go off. I went on home no problem with all the lights on. Left for work this morning same thing but notice that the charging was below 12v and sometimes around 8v; also the heater blower would not come on. (Everything else seem to work) I got to work and check fuses and pull battery cable off a couple of times. No luck! Help please!! Thanks
My brake, fuel (gas) and battery lights are on, and the air conditioner / heater / fan won't work. My voltmeter shows 14 v and I had my alternator replaced (before it was showing only 10 v, which is why I had the alternator replaced). When I pull the charging relay, everything works fine. I replaced the relay with a new one, and all of the problems return.
I have a problem my left turn signal came on last night but not flashing , it was still and wasnt that bright like when it flashing , i click the turn signal switch and it came off then came back on again .Does any one ever have this experience .
I have a 1994 Rodeo has had a short(parking light grounded out) which was repaired... now I have no dash light when the head lights are on and I have dash lights when the head lights are off... looks like a relay problem but where?? Any help would be appreciated. regards Jack
1997 Rodeo 3.2 4WD 100K Location: Cordoba, Argentina
1. I have squeak from the left front tire area that increases with velocity. I am wondering if it could be related to the two torn CV Boots on that side.
2. How important is it to replace the CV Boots? While my truck was still state-side, a mechanic just packed the joints with grease. I had told him that I did not go into 4WD much. Down here I do more often.
BTW - My truck is unique here though I have seen an occasional Passport of the same model year. And there are lots of Isuzu pick-ups and truck cabs on the roads.
wtrash_99... did you ever resolve this? My vehicle is doing exactly the same thing and my shop is telling me to replace the output speed sensor as well. I don't want to drop another $200 for a speed sensor if that won't fix it.... Please reply if you have fixed your issue.
Comments
That would deprive everyone else of valuable information. If you keep the discussion here then all can learn and benefit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
-mike
-mike
Does anyone have any suggestions besides running it off a cliff? Thanks!
If I may be so bold, it sounds like you have answered your own question.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
So two weeks after that stated my timing belt jumped and sheered off parts to the cam shaft. Two weeks and $2700 later I get the car back, it runs a little rough at times when I am at a stop light and the light starts blinking again when I hit 1,600 RPM’s. I take it back to have them look at it again and they find that it needs new spark plugs, the fuel system needs a cleaning and my intake manifold needs to be replaced. They tell me this might fix the problem but are not sure. After I had them clean the fuel system I picked it up and now the light is always on and blinks when I hit 1,200 RPM’s.
Has anyone out there had problems like this and if so what was it. I am looking to find out if it would be cheaper for me to get rid of this car before it starts costing more then it is worth. It is in good shape and I have taken care of it otherwise. Thanks for the help.
the rodeo runs great drives great ect but the cel comes on about 150 to 175 miles after getting reset,and will not go out on its own,it fails the obs test of the inspection,the tester says the obsII shows "not ready"so i cant get the car inspected and there for not road legal,i have read some post on here, this is what i have done,new gas cap,new spark plugs( i did put in bosch platuim +2,did so before reading of a possible problem with the wrong plugs??? not sure if its my year or not),the code read out was 0404 i think at autozone anyway it was supposed to be the gas cap ??but new cap was no help,as noted earlier the light allways comes on between 150 to 175 miles after restting.any help would be great car is great and runs great but i cant drive it as is legally
If it still doesn't fix it - try having a dealer performing the CEL light test - just make sure you bring it in when the light is on. It should keep a history of what the logs were when light goes off, but it often doesn't. Dealers, i think, use better readers than Autozone does so you might get better luck there.
1.) The front two (2) wheel wiggle in the first week after I purchase the car and the dealer could not find the cause of wiggle and I was told that maybe the tire is not balance. Finally, after I get outside mechanic, they found the front wheel is not aligned and balance.
2.) After a year the Gas light indicator Lit and my gas meter needle stop on quarter level: I was told by the dealer that I need to ensure and securely close the gas cap to prevent air from coming inside the gas tank and that will be okay after several days. – Then after long annoying waiting time, I bring the car to a mechanic again and found the coil of the float inside the tank is not functioning.
3.) After two and a half (2-1/2) years, while I am driving at the highway, my transmission explodes and loses transmission oil and I was stop in the middle of the highway. The dealers replace the transmission with the remanufactured one – because I was told that my car is already 3 years old and had mileage. So Okay as long as they keep my car running.
4.) Then all interior lights went out and the rear wiper does not function without any warning or indication, I do not know what the cause is; I just found one day it is not working anymore.
5.) Now, after 97,500 miles, I found my car eating engine oil and I fill up my engine one-quart of a gallon every week that cause me an additional of $12 – $15 every 3000 miles before schedule of my oil changes . Again I bring the car to the dealer and the dealer replaces the PC valve and removes carbon to some of the valve and change the oil. I was told that they need to test the engine every 500 miles of the 2000 miles to determine if the engine is really eating oil. After 500 miles I return the car to the dealer to measure the oil and found that oil level lowered by a quarter of the level stick. Again, I was told by the dealer that my car is in good condition and the oil consumption is normal. I was surprised to hear from the dealer that my car is in normal and good condition when my car is polluting the air and burns engine oil. This is ridiculous.
Does any one knows what to do to prevent the engine eating much oil? According to my dealer, Isuzu Manufacturer will not change engine if the consumption is just one quart of a gallon every 500 miles and that is considered normal. This is pathetic.
DO NOT BUY ISUZU RODEO UNLESS YOU WANT PROBLEM LIKE I HAVE
Please email any suggestion at ramos.art2000@gmail.com
-mike
The orginal problem is that it got stuck in second gear. Meaning that the stick is in neutral and when I let the clutch out it goes and I cannot shift into any other gears other than 5th and reverse but when I do this I cannot move.
So all of my bellhousing bolts are off and the transmission is loose but will not come off. I tried raising it and lowering in different positions but no luck. Also triple checked for any missed bolts. My guess is that it is still connected to the engine via 2nd gear. The only thing I can think to do at this point is mount the slave cylinder and have sombody push on the clutch. While I pull it out until it unlocks then remove the slave.
Any suggestions?
This car has been nothing but a lemon. A shame becuase I had a Rodeo years ago and it was a gen. :confuse: :mad:
Putting it back in was no picnic, either...the weight of the thing maxed out my jack. I ended up paying a local shop to do it!
Good luck!
That's good to know! Has anyone else had this experience?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Oh by the way,... we love our vehicle... has almost 200,000 miles on the engine and still going strong, well, yeah, there is the new perspiration problem...
any savvy mechanics out there that may have a solution would be greatly appreciated.
The only thing I would change is the process for folding down the rear seat - on mine I have to remove the headrests (and store them somewhere), pull up the bottom of the back seats, and fold down the back of the back seats - do this on both sides of the vehicle. Not a huge deal, but would be nice if you could push a lever and have both seats fold down with headrests that tuck under, as some other vehicles do.
All in all, I really do like my vehicle - it's the perfect size for me and I like the fact that it doesn't have a lot of unnecessary plastic parts on the exterior (scoops, flares, etc.).
does anyone have experience with this?
i have a maintenance manual for the 92 rodeo, but i would like to find better engine diagrams. does anyone know where i can get some? hopefully there are some online i could look at.
thanks
If you find something good, please let me know and we'll update the guide with it.
The electric door locks will not function as well. I think there is a broken wire in the rubber housing in the door jam. I just cant get to it to repair. Any idea's?? Do I need to remove the entire door(drivers side)??
Thanks for any help.
eqpassport, "Isuzu Rodeo" #1943, 26 Apr 2006 9:21 am
There are a couple dozen search hits but I didn't look at them very closely.
Oh yeah I forgot when you have your next tune up get the mech. to clean the combustion chamber and intake along with cleaning the pcv valve and relacing it. Also try getting the fuel system cleaned I think its like $110.00 at Firestone or $150.00 at the dealer My Mech said that that may help also. I am planning on getting these things done but I had to change the Timing Belt, Water Pump and some other thing yesterday so I am strapped for cash. But if I get it done first I will let you know how it goes. Also try buying Chevron gas the dealer said that they have the highest AKI(Anti-Knock Index) which is best for this car.
hope this helps
thanks
Thanks
My brake, fuel (gas) and battery lights are on, and the air conditioner / heater / fan won't work. My voltmeter shows 14 v and I had my alternator replaced (before it was showing only 10 v, which is why I had the alternator replaced). When I pull the charging relay, everything works fine. I replaced the relay with a new one, and all of the problems return.
Any ideas?
Any help would be appreciated.
regards
Jack
1. I have squeak from the left front tire area that increases with velocity. I am wondering if it could be related to the two torn CV Boots on that side.
2. How important is it to replace the CV Boots? While my truck was still state-side, a mechanic just packed the joints with grease. I had told him that I did not go into 4WD much. Down here I do more often.
BTW - My truck is unique here though I have seen an occasional Passport of the same model year. And there are lots of Isuzu pick-ups and truck cabs on the roads.