Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Rodeo



  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    So you're not really looking for a confirmation of a good deal - you're just bragging :-)

    I hope that Isuzu dealer stays in business for at least another three years though. They're falling down like flies :-(
  • I really am not bragging, just curiuous if that was a good deal. The dealership has been around for 30 years. They are a Dodge, Isuzu, and Subaru. They should be there. I feel like it was. My neighbor bought 2. When they bought the first one I thought she just got a good deal, then 3 days later they bought another and she told me they were moving thme out for the 2004 models. I bought it New Year's Eve so htey were giving good deals.
  • cracoviancracovian Posts: 337
    I'm joking about you bragging - yes, you got a good deal. Does it have leather? I noticed that not many 2003s, if any, have leather.

    I currently have a 2002 Trooper and wouldn't mind adding another Isuzu to my stable. I might hold off a year to get a 4x4 Axiom real cheap. Nice engine, a little bit better crash rating than a Rodeo, and TOD to kill for... But I've also been eyeing some Rodeos up north. I don't think they have that many good deals in Georgia.
  • atlgaxtatlgaxt Posts: 501
    I'm from Atlanta also and one problem I have noticed is that the vast majority of Isuzus around here are low-end models and it is almost impossible to find one with leather and 4wd. I had a 99 Rodeo LSE with 4wd and everything that I just turned in on lease. When I tried to buy a new one, I could not find any 4wd making it hard to get a good deal.
  • Leather is the only option it did not have. From what I have researched and read it has all the other goodies. It is 2WD, but I really don't have any mountains to deal with in Central Florida. I like the Winter and Power buttons. They work great at the boat ramp. I owned 1 4WD in my life and the only time I ever used it was to play. Being a fishing guide I don't do that. As long as it pulls the boat it is all good. It really pulls the boat nice.
  • Sorry to hear your having problems. The key thing you can do are:
    1: clean the egr port tube(behind the intake butterfly).
    2. clean or replace PCV
    3. Clean egr and the egr tube.

    Then if you want to try to fix the rings you can warm the engine for 10 minutes, pull the plugs, dump a little Sea Foam down into the clyinder. Let it sit for a bit 20 mins or so. Turn the engine over to push the Sea Foam out. Then install the plug and your set. Now I have never done this before, so you may want to follow the instuctions on the sea foam and just dump a 1/2 can into the oil and run it for 500 miles and then change the oil. You can also add sea foam to the gas too.
  • I purchased a 2003 Rodeo 4WD 5-speed in a state without front plates and my sate(Illinois) requires front license plates.

    I called a dealer and they say it is not covered by warranty. They also said there was not "kit" for installing them.

    Has anyone installed front plates from scratch. Are there instructions? Is there a BOM? I do not want to randomly drill into my vehicle.

    I tried calling the customer relations and I gave up after 15 minutes on hold. I called again and they were decidely unhelpful suggesting I call the dealer. They had neither a BOM nor instructions. They also said it was not covered under warranty.
  • Call the guys at

    They will help you out.
  • I talked to They were very friendly, but gave me a similar answer to other dealers. Use a self-tapping screw, but when I pressed for what size they did not know. The best offer I got was from a dealer 35 miles away who said they would give me a few screws.

    I just want to know what the thread diameter and the length is so I can go to Ace Hardware and pick them up.
  • First I want to find out if something I heard recently is accurate. When I bought my 2000 Rodeo LS (new), I told the salesman that I change my own oil and air filter, and asked if this was going to pose a problem with the warranty. He said no. I then asked if I need to keep all my receipts and such when I do this and he said when the Isuzu service people examine a car for warranty issues, they will first determine if the problem is due to neglect and if it is not, the warranty will be honored. My previous car was an 11 year old Plymouth Sundance which I got in college, so this was my first car purchase and I stupidly trusted the salesman who sounded genuine. As far as the service is concerned, I change the oil every 3,000 - 5,000 miles and try to do it closer to every 3,000. Other maintenance I've had done at chain maintenance shop on schedule. My question is, if something powertrain related does come up, am I screwed as far as being able to make a warranty claim? If so, is there anything I can do (such as pay Isuzu for some kind of thourough inspection) to make sure that the warranty remains in place? I don't expect to have to use the warranty because Isuzu wouldn't offer it if they expected the car to break down in that time period. However, for peace of mind, I'd like to know it's still there.

    That said, I'm approaching my 60,000 mile maintenance, and it's a doozy. The dealership where I bought the car said it would be approx. $400. If my warranty is not going to be honored because I don't have receipts to prove maintenance was done, is there any benefit to having the maintenance done there vs. at Pepboys where it will be just under $300 and that will include cleaning the fuel injectors (this would be another $70 - $100 at Isuzu)?

    One last pair of questions. My check engine light came on intermittently about a month or so ago and the service manager at the dealership said to give it some time because there are some things that can cause this that will also correct themselves (ie. gas cap not being installed correctly). Well, the check engine light is no on continuously so I figure I better get someone to look at it and correct whatever is causing it. What are some common causes for the check engine light coming on? Also, my low fuel light has just started coming on and blinking. this starts happening at between 1/4 - 1/8 of a tank of gas, so it's not simply a low fuel indication. My gas mileage has fallen off sharply in the last 2-3 months or so, and I'm assuming that this could be related to one or both of these lights, but I really don't know.
  • I just learned that there is a repair shop close by that claims to be an Isuzu authorized repair shop (to the extent that they claim warranty service can be done there). Does Isuzu have partners like this? Is there any fall back to Isuzu if I had a problem with this shop?
  • Start to keep your reciepts now. If you do have problems down the road at least you will have some sort of record.

    Fuel light blinking, is due the the contact arm in the tank is slightly bent and now the gas guage is inaccurate. The solution is to drop the tank and bend the little arm. I think it may be covered under the 12/120k warrenty.

    The CEL ususally comes on for emissions reasons and yes the gas cap is the common cause. You may also want to pull your EGR and clean it (DIY 30 min job). Also, if there is an Autozone in the area they will read the codes for free.

    Gas mileage dropping, yes, during the winter they use a different blend of gas (winter grade), and the colder weather gas is not as explosive, therefore you need more gas in to = the same power as you do in the summer.
  • I can stop at Autozone and they'll plug the car in and be able to tell me why the CEL is on for free? I've gone for battery and alternator testing before but didn't have a clue they could do the CEL diagnostic. If that's the case, you just made my day.
  • About two years ago, I bought a 12 disk CD changer for my Rodeo and had assumed it could mount under one of the seats. Assuming that was my error. I think someone here directed me to a site where someone had mounted their changer vertically above the rear wheel well. That's what I did, but was very concerned that I'd have CDs skipping all over the place. I am happy to report back that after 2 years, I think the player has skipped maybe 1/2 dozen times, and those have been when hit some major bumps or potholes. If anyone else is trying to figure out where to mount a CD changer, and your changer can be mounted vertically, this is the place. It's pretty much out of the way, but still easy to get to.
  • Ok, just got back from Autozone and got the following information. First, if your check engine light goes out, there's still a chance that the sensors will store the error codes they've received. I had three codes stored:

    P0463 - The PCM has determined that the voltage signal from teh fuel level sensor is too high for the current engine operating conditions.

    I mentioned that someone had told me I might have a bent fuel sensor arm in my fuel tank and he said that might be the cause of this error, but he wasn't sure.

    P1404 - IAT-B Circuit Malfunction / EGR Temperature sensor circuit.

    He wasn't sure what this one was, so any help would be appreciated.

    P300 (I think, I forgot to get this one printed out)
    He said this was saying I've had 1 or more misfires and it's probably time to change the spark plugs. I've done this on a Plymouth Sundance and Saturn SL2, is there anything different about the Rodeo I should know before changing the plugs? Are there any specific plugs I should use or avoid?
  • P1404, mostly is your EGR is stuck open or closed. You need to remove the EGR and spray it with some carb cleaner and spray some carb clean down the EGR tube also. Make sure you purchase carb cleaner that is safe for O2 sensors.

    here is my how to I wrote up on a different site:
    "First I disconnected the Neg terminal on the battery.

    I loosened the two screws on the intake, removed the tube that goes to the vavle cover, and then tried to remove the one sensor plug. Which didn't happen, but there was enough slack in it to move the intake and place it above the TB.

    So I take a look at the butterfly valve and it doesn't look half bad. I open it and there is a bit of carbon build up. So I sprayed that area, and wiped it out with a shop towl. Then I sprayed into the intake and washed that down a bit too (.25 of the can). Next I saw the tube that Keith mentioned that cools cly #1, and I ran a Test Tube brush about 4-5 inches down it with little problems. After that I put a shop towl in the butterfly to let it air out.

    Next I removed the EGR, 2 bolts and one plug. And then remove the EGR itself. I sprayed down the inside of the EGR and lots of flaky carbon washed out. I also, sprayed some down the EGR tube and the hole next to it, and ran the test tube brush down it a bit. Then I let the EGR sit out and air out for about 30-40 minutes before I installed it. Then I put everything back together.

    Then the fun started. I turned the key for about 5 seconds and it would crank and crank and crank but nothing. I tried again and the same thing happened. One more time, and it turned overed and stummbled for about 7-10 seconds. Then I started to give it a bit of gas and then it happened! The dreaded Flashing Check engine light! NO! At this point it was running just fine so I took it for a spin around the block. Everytime I accelerated the CE would flash. Hmmmmm, what is going on here? Luckly I live about 2 miles away from my dealership, I pulled in told them that I had a CE flashing and they checked the gas cap, and asked if I had tried to restart the car yet. Nope, so I did that, reved it a bit and NO CE. Yippy! So I drove home and the CE never flashed once!"

    The plugs are easy (or at least I have heard this). Make sure you hold onto the coil and twist twist twist and then twist and pull at the same time. The one hard plug to get at is the one by the brake master cylinder. you will use two extensions and one flex joint to get it out. Use Desno or NGK plugs, stay away from autolites, champion, bosch.

    If you are the 1st owner of your Zu then the gas sender unit is covered under the 10yr/120k warrenty:

  • I have a 98 Passport. From time to time when I am stopped but in Drive the idle starts oscillating from about 400 RPM up to about 2500 RPM. I usually have to drop it into neutral and rev up to keep from having it shutdown on me. Any thoughts?
  • Sounds like a classic exaust manifold gasket problem. Or a fuel filter problem.
  • Ever since i took my car to Precision Auto Tune Care for a 60000 mile service and timing belt change, I am having major problems:

    Engine running rough
    Low power
    Check Engine Light on
    Major Vibrations

    The Precision guys could not fix it. So I took it to the Isuzu Dealer. They said that the wrong spark plugs were put in and that the timing was off and they fixed both of those. They also said that the 'fuel sending unit' was bad and needed to be replaced. Even after the replacement, the CEL was still on and finally they said it was the O2 sensor on the left bank. Even that did not fix the problem. Then they said that the catalytic converter got burnt because of excess fuel from the wrong spark plugs. Now after changing the catalytic converter, the CEL has gone away but the engine is still running rough, and the dealer is still trying to fix it.

    Any ideas on what could be causing this? Any help is appreciated. I have already spent $3000 on this non-warranty stuff since the only thing covered was the catalytic converter. The car has 66000 miles on it.

  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    saiman9- You could have easily gone twice that mileage before you needed a T-belt changeout! Plus that is a major risk trusting a franchise type auto repair shop to do this kind of work. It is an involved job for someone who hasn't done one of these trucks before. You DEFINITELY want to run nothing but denso spark plugs in a 2000+ 3.2/3.5L because of the ion sensing ignition system. The system is designed to work with denso spark plugs. If you drove it long enough with the valve timing off (timing gears off a tooth or two), you could have overloaded/overheated your cats which will require them to be replaced. Sorry to hear about the problems & hopefully the dealer can resolve them. Only thing you can do at this point is read the OBDII codes, describe the operating issues as best you can & take it one step at a time.
  • Joel, thank you for the advise. I guess it was kind of stupid of me to take it to Precision. Now I have learnt my lesson. Car is still at the dealer. The only problem they see at this time is the car running rough, the CEL is not on anymore. i will post a message when the car is fixed.

    i appreciate your input.
  • got the car back from the dealer. turned out that the cam gear sprocket was installed 180 deg off from the mfg spec by the precision guys. car is running great now......
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    saiman9- glad to hear they got it resolved for you. I'm surprised it ran at all with the valve timing off that much. Gotta love non-interference engines! Did it wind up souring your catalytic converters?
  • joel, yes one of the catalytic converters got burnt and had to be replaced.
  • Just purchased a 2003 Rodeo, loaded with everything but TOD. Sticker said 23mpg on the highway, but I am barely getting 17. Also, power going up hills is barely there. Anyone else experiencing this? If so, what are the fixes? I really dont want to deal with the dealership, as I do my own maintenance.
  • jtk152jtk152 Posts: 139
    Really? The sticker for my 2002 3.2 4x4 AT says 15/21. I average 17mpg. Power is great. If you are not getting a CEL, that's a tough one to troubleshoot. Pretty much have to drive another identical 2003 under the same conditions to see it there is difference in hill climbing power.
  • The ones with the direct injection engine might say 23mpg. If you got the 2003 it should have been a bit less though...
  • 2003 Rodeo 4x4 5-speed -- mileage is 16-17 mpg in first 6K miles.

    Power seems good. Considerable power improvement over our 1993 166K Rodeo, but slightly worse mileage.
Sign In or Register to comment.