Nissan Pathfinder

xplorx4

It's important to note that unless an engine is specifically designed to run on 91 octane, the use of premium fuel will only affect your pocketbook, not performance. The faster-burning 87 octane fuel can cause pre-ignition and detonation in engines designed to use premium, so timing is often retarded to compensate.

Again, the cost of premium isn't substantially higher than regular in this day and age. If your engine is "supposed to use" premium, why not use it?

north14

have had two 94's. problems include bad oxy sensors (went out on both)/bad speedometer heads (both) and bad exhause systems (1)/ but other than that, you can expect them to go about 250K. reliable and bullet-proof.

danpf1

Just thought I would let everyone know that sense changing over to full synthetics, front to rear the performance and gas mileage have continue to improve. I am now getting 20MPG around town was getting 18MPG two tanks ago. I use 91 gas and full Royal Purple synthetics. Before changing to full synthetics I thought I would never get over 17MPG around town, for my money synthetics are worth the extra price. Also engine performance has improved due to the trans and the rest of the drive train operating much smoother. Can't get any better than that. Pathfinder, 2001 LE 4x4 Auto AWD.

blawson

I change my own oil most of the time at 3000 miles. Up until now I have been getting the oil filters from the dealer. Given all the discussion concerning synthetics, I thought I'd start using Mobil 1 and I will probably go to synthetics all around at some point.

I have three questions.

(1) Does anyone use non-Nissan oil filters? Which ones?

(2) How many miles do you go between oil changes with synthetic oil?

cdnpinhead

who use synthetic oil (which I use in my other car) justify doing so, when the owners manual expressly recommends against it?

A few months ago the question came up here, and someone posted that the manual only referred to not using oil additives, which I was happy to hear.

Not true. I made it a point to review that portion of the manual before I did my first oil change a month or so ago. Speaking of which, that little tray/funnel gizmo that keeps the oil draining from the filter making a mess is quite a nice feature.

My manual (2004) specifically says that the use of synthetic oils is not recommended. I'm guessing it has to do with the seals. I work in the aerospace industry, and the o-rings used in turbine engines (all synthetic oil) are not off-the-shelf. O-rings and other seals not designed for synthetic oils can swell or shrink in its presence, and seals designed for synthetics may not work their best with dino oil. Can't have it both ways, and they probably don't want to require synthetic across the board. BMW and other upscale brands can get away with it, but the sentra crowd probably isn't ready for $5 - 8 per quart oil.

Much as I'd like to use synthetic in my PF, I'm sticking with the dino oil, per the book. My 240Z engine still had hone marks in the cylinders at 200K miles when I pulled the engine down for what turned out to only be bad stem seals, and that was years ago. Even the dino oil is much improved now.

blawson

I took at my manual for my 2002 SE and it does not have the language you are referring to advising against using synthetics. There is a line that says "mineral based or synthetic type oils may be used in your NISSAN vehicle. These oils must however, meet the API and quality and SAE viscosity rating....". I also talked to my NISSAN dealer here in Maryland and they offer Castrol synthetics as an option when you take your car in for an oil change. He didn't mention anything about it being different for the 2004's so I wonder if there is something specific to the Canada models??? I can't see what though.

cstowe

FWIW...in addition to our 2001 Pathy I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler which ran dino oil for 60,000 miles. I decided to switch to synthetic since the miles were getting up there and I only do short trips.

Well, a few thousand into the Mobil 1 I noticed a big oil stain in the garage under the jeep...after a short trip to my mech. he said that I needed a new gasket...fixed it, and the leak stopped.

Did the synthetic oil cause the gasket to go south... or was it just time to replace it...I will never know for sure but I don't think it is too much of a stretch to blame the synthetic. I am back on dino oil and will replace it every 2,000 miles instead of the 3-4,000 that I was doing.

Decide for yourself but that was my experience with synthetic.

pathstar1

Here we go! Yet another discussion of synthetic vs non.

I've been using Mobil 1 for several years now, because it more than pays for itself in improved mileage. I change it at the same 6000 km intervals because the main reason for changing oil is to get rid of the corrosive contaminants, not to replenish the slippery molecules. I use stock Nissan filters. 2001 LE AWD. The vehicle seems to run better with it (smoother, quieter, more consistent oil pressure).

I use 10W30 oil, not the 5W30 Nissan specs. It looses viscosity at idle when the engine is hot (engine starts to "rumble" - indicating -to me- the crankshaft is rubbing on the bearing surfaces). 10W30 doesn't allow that. I'm not impressed with the "energy savers" requiring that light weight oil to be specd. I started off using Quaker State non-sythetic oil at the first oil change (do all my own), and switched to Mobil 1 as an experiment at around 15,000 km. Now at 45,000 km.

I find the Nissan recommendation to not use it very suspicious. Perhaps they are afraid we will not be replacing our vehicles as often?

scottinky

I just changed my oil about a month or so ago. I used a Purolater Pure One filter, and Mobil Drive Clean 5w-30 (as per the manual). I have noticed my 03 idles a bit rougher (loud little rumble)as mentioned by Pathstar, but driven, it runs strong. If I wait to change to 10w-30 in about 1K miles, will it be ok, or change it out now? I always thought 5w was too thin, which was also required by Ford in my Mustang, but followed the manual
anyway with no ill effects.

cdnpinhead

not replacing vehicles so often, recall that I got 200K+ miles from my 2.4 litre Nissan engine in the '70's w/ dino oil. I'm guessing the engines haven't gotten worse, nor has the oil. They'll last forever, without regard to type of oil, so long as it's changed regularly, with the filter.

And to cstowe: certainly didn't to get anecdotal evidence to support my position so quickly.

I'm going to posit that Nissan didn't used to see anything wrong with synthetic, & earlier versions of the owner's manual allowed it. By 2004, they seem to have changed their opinion. Besides which, the 3.5 litre engine used in '04 may not have been in the '02. I can't remember when it came into use. Perhaps the recommendation is engine-specific.

Either way, the engine is going to last a long time.

danpf1

I use Mobil 1 oil filters and I have used many other brands of oil filters, they all worked just as good, I haven't used an Nissan filter sense the first oil change. I change my oil every 10,000 miles, the trans at 30,000 miles the differentials I will top off when needed, the same for the transfer case. All have synthetics fluids. The only time the transfer and differential get changed is when driving in deep water or mud.

danpf1

I have been using synthetics now for about 15 years in all my vehicles, including my Motorhome which has full synthetics and I have never been told that I should not use them. The engines, transmissions, differentials and transfer cases all perform better and run smoother and cooler. No oil leaks, no transfer case failures, no engines failures, no differential failures or leaking seals of any kind. I have only experience positive results from using full synthetics.

danpf1

I stopped using Mobil 1 for that reason and it didn't hold up as good as Royal Purple, so I changed to 5w-30 royal purple but I still use their oil filters.

scottinky

I am using Mobil Dino oil. Drive clean is not synth. I was just wondering if 10W would be better for year round driving?

danpf1

I use 5w-30 Royal Purple syn. year around, temps in my area range from 28deg to 110deg and according to my manual you can use 10w-30 also but I prefer the later for all around use, no problems so far. In my Honda CR-V EX I also use 5w-30 Royal Purple syn., the Motorhome I use 10w-30 Royal Purple. Full synthetics front to rear on all the vehicles, except the Honda, Haven't changed it over yet to full synthetics but will soon.

scottinky

Can someone recommend a good set of aftermarket rotors
and pads? mine are warped again at 20K, and I don't want to
pay to have them resurfaced, I would rather them be replaced.

aigenga

Well, I went ahead with the rotors and a set of AXXIS Metal Master pads (see my message #7506). The parts cost me about $120 and the service was $150 at a local mechanic. I bed them in as I have seen advised and could smell the brakes heat up. The results so far (200 miles or so) are great - better feel, better bite, shorter distances (I guess).

I think this is a better way to go than cutting the existing rotors.

Thanks for the replys, it gave me the courage to do the right thing.

Gary

smokey75

Go to http://www.brakewarehouse.com/
I like the Powerstop cross-drilled rotors & the Axxis Metal Master pads. This is what two different places recommened to me also.

scottinky

What about Brembo rotors with the Akebono pads? They are
$73 each vs $136 for those powerstops cross drilled?

gkarg

My brother just purchased a used 2001 Pathfinder and I was surprised at the fact that the only light to come on when the doors were open was the cargo ceiling light (yes just one light in the whole vehicle.) He said the middle ceiling light was burned out. I thought the map lights (front ceiling) should be coming on.

I know there is a switch on the center light that changes when the light comes on - but which lights are supposed to come on and when? Can the map lights be made to illuminate when the doors are opened? Are there any lights that should come on for the floor/foot well areas?

Thanks!

Jack44

Has anyone found a longer oil filter than the small one's that are on there...For a little more filtration...

I've been using Fram ToughGuards...

xplorx4

The map lights do not illuminate when the doors are opened. Only the dome lights in the cargo area and above the rear seat illuminate when the doors open. The maps lights cannot be made to illuminate (at least not very easily) with the door open, since they are just a on/off pushbutton toggle switch. (The dome lights have a 3-way switch.)

smokey75

I haven't been able to find Brembo rotors for my 2001 PF. Where did you get them. I do like Brembo better though.

gkarg

Thanks - I guessed that was going to be the case. It just seems strange that they didn't have those map lights illuminate, too. My '92 Continental and '00 LS have similarly positioned lights - both on toggles, but they illuminate with the doors, also.

scottinky

at tirerack for $73 each. those are the plain jane ones, no crossdrilled, no slotted.

smokey75

Oh ok... I went on tirerack & looked at them. While I do like Brembo, I am looking for cross-drilled rotors so it looks like the PowerStop is still the best I've found. Thanks for the input though...

pathalogical

Is it true ? If you switch from conventional oil to synthetic, you cannot switch back to conventional oil.

danpf1

If you believe that , I have a bridge for sale, real cheep. I think what they meant to say was, If you change over to synthetic oil, you will never want to change back to conventional oil or fluids.

calgaryphil

The VQ35 engine in the '04 has been used since '01 and is essentially unchanged (same HP, torque and MPG ratings seem to confirm that). I have no idea why Nissan is now recommending against using synthetics...maybe it has to do with new seals they are using or something (or they are playing it safe). My dealer also offers synthetic oil changes for the Pathfinder.

As for myself, I have switched both diffs, the engine, transfer case and transmission to synthetic in my '01 LE. The difference in mileage was noticable right away (around 1 mpg) although I haven't checked it lately.

While I'm posting...regarding the Premium vs Regular fuel grade issue, my own (repeated) results indicate a loss of performance and mileage with the switch to 87 octane from 91 octane...I'll stick to the good stuff. These are simply my own findings.

dieselone

Well today was a bad day. Had to make a 400 mile round trip to Wichita, KS which is bad enough. I have an 01 LE w/ 52k miles. On the way to Wichita my CD changer played a complete CD and was changing to the cd in the #2 slot. I immediately noticed a grinding nasty noise comming from the changer, then the dreaded ERR 2 came up on the display. I was able to eject all of my cds, but it still will not play any cd's i've tried. To add insult to injury, on the trip back home the MIL light is now on. This is the 3rd time the light has come on since I had this vehicle since being purchased new. The 1st time was the 02 sensors which were under warranty. The 2nd occured about 2 mos. ago which ended up being a valve timming postion sensor & $300. Who knows what the problem is this time. I guess a trip to the dealer is in order and my wallet will most likely be much lighter when I get the truck back.

Anyone have an idea on how much a new cd changer costs? I'm affraid of what the dealer will charge.

nikiblue1

cd changer cost: too much! I had the same problem, but it happened 3K miles before the warranty run out. Try ebay first, if they don't have it go buy yourself another unit that will work with audio controls, I'm sure they will have one in the audio stores. You can get yourself a much nicer unit w/10-12 cd changers. Hang in there, pathfinders are great vehicles. I also had the sensor problem...other then that theses SUV are excellent.

scottinky

I plan on getting an extended warranty. I just had an exhaust leak fixed under warranty, and I saw the labor bill for the new pipe and seals, came to $300!!!! It is now quiet like it should be, but sheesh.

danpf1

calgaryphil: what brand of synthetics are you using now? I tried several brands and now use Royal Purple, it seems to have a higher oxidation rate as compared to the others that i have used, what has been you experience?

dieselone

I looked on Ebay and found one for around $200. I'm not in a hurry so I'll keep looking. Had to make another trip to Wichita today and the MIL light was on all the way down (about 220 miles), then it turned off on the trip home. Maybe it was a loose gas cap. I can only wish, but at this point I guess I'll wait and see what happens. When my 02 sensors when bad the light would come and go, eventially staying on all of the time along with the fuel economy going way down. My gas mileage is has not fallen off, I got 19 on the way down and 17 on the way back. After a long day, I was in a hurry to get home.

newman

i have a 1995 pathfinder it is missing a radiator overflow? Is this going to hurt anything or do i need to find one. Also im trying to replace the fog lights thought that i had it and they didnt work? Could there be a problem with the wires?

calgaryphil

IIRC, the dealer used Mobil 1 for everything except the diffs where they used a Castrol synthetic gearlube and a limited slip additive.

I haven't put enough miles on any of them (except the engine oil) to have them changed out so I can't comment on oxidation...however the tranny fluid still looks pretty good on the dipstick.

lbinh

I think you need an overflow tank. That little something is for the radiator to pull from just in case it needs more coolant and flows back when it is no longer needed. I think you could have a lot of coolant spilling when the engine gets hot or your engine runs hotter b/c no extra coolant to pull from the overflow tank.

Check the fuses for the fog light and that you installed the light correctly, check connections.

newman

it just seem odd that it didnt have one i will have to find one at a junk yard that is in good shape. It doesnt get hot yet but i want to be on the safe side since i have a 4 hr trip coming up in a month. I will check the connections and the fuses. Thank you lbinh.

danpf1

calgaryphil, I believe that the Oxidation rate for Mobil 1 is at about 400, while Royal Purple exceeds 1200 range. This higher rate allows you to change oil every 12,000 miles instead of 3,000 miles. That is one reason why i changed over to Royal Purple, there are a fee others too. Also Royal Purple makes a gear oil, called Max-Gear that is formulated for limited slip differentials, there is no need to add a limited slip additive to the mix. I did like Castrol better than Mobil 1, seemed to hold up better under high heat conditions.

omegap

Has anyone experienced excessive tire wear for the 2001 PF when following the recommended 26 psi(cold) tire inflation? specifically on the outside of the tires?

Is this different in the >2002 models?

danpf1

omegap, I have a 2001 LE that I keep at 32PSI, front and rear, have no wear problems at that pressure, never tried 26PSI.

jiamin

If I remember right, 26 psi is for 16" tires and 30 psi is for optional 17" tires. I also keep my 17" tires at 32 psi.

deebardac

Recap on tires (excuse the pun)

History- 2001 LE, tire rotation every 4000 miles, 90% of all driving in excess of 60MPH. (live on farm).

Original GrandTrek @ 26PSI were replaced at 32,000 miles, the tires were completely wore out at the inside and outside edges, there was still a considerable amount of rubber left in the center.
The Dunlops were replaced with Michelin CrossTerrain @ 28PSI. After about 1000 miles wear became noticable in the center of the tires, so the pressure was reduced to 26PSI. After 26000 miles the tires were down to the wear bars in the center but the inside and outside edges still had lots of rubber left.
Michelin replaced the CrossTerrains under warranty and I fitted Michelin LTX. @ 28PSI. After 8000 miles there has been no discernable wear across the entire tread. Go figure!
There may be something weird with my LE when it comes to tires or conversely there may be something weird with tires when it comes to my Pathfinder.

danpf1

deebardac, I too live in the country and have the Dunlops 16" tires with 34,000 miles. I keep them right at 32PSI and they show very little ware. I should be able to get another 15 to 20,000 miles out of these tires, maybe your tires were made from a softer compound than mine. 2001 LE Pathfinder, rear air bags and Rancho shocks. I should add that most of my driving is 60MPH or more on smooth asphalt, very little concrete surface driving, could make a difference.

nic519

Hi,

I thinking of picking up a used pth fndr. The one I'm looking is a 95 se, all option with about 112k, manual tran and is going for about $3500.

I'm pretty confident in these cars in terms of reliablity, but I'ld like to here fom you.

I know that a key factor in terms of reliablity is how well the car was maintained buy the pev owners, but I'ld like a general sentiment, as well as what kind of maintinace I should expect at these mls.

Plus, any idea how much to replace a clutch?

coupedncal

I myself have not owned a pathfinder but have been looking to get one sometimes in the future. I was wondering if anyone else here also remembers some rollover issues with the pre 1996 model year pathfinders. I have a faint recollection of reading something somewhere and the news story was stating figures that were higher than other body-on-frame chassis trucks. The 1996 and newer were uni-body chassis (and hence more car-like). Could someone correct me if I am wrong ? I'd hate to raise false alarm and get nic519 to pass up a perfectly safe truck.

xplorx4

Try a google search for "Pathfinder rollover risk" and refine the search based on terms you find in the resulting links. One article cautions against pre-96 Pathfinders due to high(er) rollover risk, but it wasn't clear to me that its design is inherently prone to rollover in normal low-speed emergency maneuvering (unlike the Suzuki Samurai, for instance). The fact is that SUVs have a higher rollover risk than passenger cars, if that is your primary concern. Even the latest Pathfinders (and many new SUVs) can roll over in situations in which a car will merely skid.

schlepp

I have a 2003 LE. It was just shipped overseas to my current location. Apparently someone opened the passenger side window upon arrival to test the windows and now it won't go back up. All the other windows work. When it left for port it worked fine. I'm still under warranty but there are no Nissan dealers where I am located. I have never had a problem. Has anyone had a similar problem? Anyone have a fix? Thanks in advance for any advice.

stever

First Drive: 2005 Nissan Pathfinder

Steve, Host

mahipalc

When I bought my 03' LE last year, I had a more or less similar problem within the first two weeks. Both the front windows would just roll down automatically as soon as I turn off the ignition. Dealer detected a problem with the power window switch and fixed it at no cost.

I dont know where you live, but even if there is no Nissan dealer there must be some auto mechanic who can work on power windows. Should be a simple fix but you may have to spend some money out of your pocket.

Mahipal