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Again, the cost of premium isn't substantially higher than regular in this day and age. If your engine is "supposed to use" premium, why not use it?
I have three questions.
(1) Does anyone use non-Nissan oil filters? Which ones?
(2) How many miles do you go between oil changes with synthetic oil?
A few months ago the question came up here, and someone posted that the manual only referred to not using oil additives, which I was happy to hear.
Not true. I made it a point to review that portion of the manual before I did my first oil change a month or so ago. Speaking of which, that little tray/funnel gizmo that keeps the oil draining from the filter making a mess is quite a nice feature.
My manual (2004) specifically says that the use of synthetic oils is not recommended. I'm guessing it has to do with the seals. I work in the aerospace industry, and the o-rings used in turbine engines (all synthetic oil) are not off-the-shelf. O-rings and other seals not designed for synthetic oils can swell or shrink in its presence, and seals designed for synthetics may not work their best with dino oil. Can't have it both ways, and they probably don't want to require synthetic across the board. BMW and other upscale brands can get away with it, but the sentra crowd probably isn't ready for $5 - 8 per quart oil.
Much as I'd like to use synthetic in my PF, I'm sticking with the dino oil, per the book. My 240Z engine still had hone marks in the cylinders at 200K miles when I pulled the engine down for what turned out to only be bad stem seals, and that was years ago. Even the dino oil is much improved now.
Well, a few thousand into the Mobil 1 I noticed a big oil stain in the garage under the jeep...after a short trip to my mech. he said that I needed a new gasket...fixed it, and the leak stopped.
Did the synthetic oil cause the gasket to go south... or was it just time to replace it...I will never know for sure but I don't think it is too much of a stretch to blame the synthetic. I am back on dino oil and will replace it every 2,000 miles instead of the 3-4,000 that I was doing.
Decide for yourself but that was my experience with synthetic.
I've been using Mobil 1 for several years now, because it more than pays for itself in improved mileage. I change it at the same 6000 km intervals because the main reason for changing oil is to get rid of the corrosive contaminants, not to replenish the slippery molecules. I use stock Nissan filters. 2001 LE AWD. The vehicle seems to run better with it (smoother, quieter, more consistent oil pressure).
I use 10W30 oil, not the 5W30 Nissan specs. It looses viscosity at idle when the engine is hot (engine starts to "rumble" - indicating -to me- the crankshaft is rubbing on the bearing surfaces). 10W30 doesn't allow that. I'm not impressed with the "energy savers" requiring that light weight oil to be specd. I started off using Quaker State non-sythetic oil at the first oil change (do all my own), and switched to Mobil 1 as an experiment at around 15,000 km. Now at 45,000 km.
I find the Nissan recommendation to not use it very suspicious. Perhaps they are afraid we will not be replacing our vehicles as often?
anyway with no ill effects.
And to cstowe: certainly didn't to get anecdotal evidence to support my position so quickly.
I'm going to posit that Nissan didn't used to see anything wrong with synthetic, & earlier versions of the owner's manual allowed it. By 2004, they seem to have changed their opinion. Besides which, the 3.5 litre engine used in '04 may not have been in the '02. I can't remember when it came into use. Perhaps the recommendation is engine-specific.
Either way, the engine is going to last a long time.
and pads? mine are warped again at 20K, and I don't want to
pay to have them resurfaced, I would rather them be replaced.
I think this is a better way to go than cutting the existing rotors.
Thanks for the replys, it gave me the courage to do the right thing.
Gary
I like the Powerstop cross-drilled rotors & the Axxis Metal Master pads. This is what two different places recommened to me also.
$73 each vs $136 for those powerstops cross drilled?
I know there is a switch on the center light that changes when the light comes on - but which lights are supposed to come on and when? Can the map lights be made to illuminate when the doors are opened? Are there any lights that should come on for the floor/foot well areas?
Thanks!
I've been using Fram ToughGuards...
As for myself, I have switched both diffs, the engine, transfer case and transmission to synthetic in my '01 LE. The difference in mileage was noticable right away (around 1 mpg) although I haven't checked it lately.
While I'm posting...regarding the Premium vs Regular fuel grade issue, my own (repeated) results indicate a loss of performance and mileage with the switch to 87 octane from 91 octane...I'll stick to the good stuff. These are simply my own findings.
Anyone have an idea on how much a new cd changer costs? I'm affraid of what the dealer will charge.
I haven't put enough miles on any of them (except the engine oil) to have them changed out so I can't comment on oxidation...however the tranny fluid still looks pretty good on the dipstick.
Check the fuses for the fog light and that you installed the light correctly, check connections.
Is this different in the >2002 models?
History- 2001 LE, tire rotation every 4000 miles, 90% of all driving in excess of 60MPH. (live on farm).
Original GrandTrek @ 26PSI were replaced at 32,000 miles, the tires were completely wore out at the inside and outside edges, there was still a considerable amount of rubber left in the center.
The Dunlops were replaced with Michelin CrossTerrain @ 28PSI. After about 1000 miles wear became noticable in the center of the tires, so the pressure was reduced to 26PSI. After 26000 miles the tires were down to the wear bars in the center but the inside and outside edges still had lots of rubber left.
Michelin replaced the CrossTerrains under warranty and I fitted Michelin LTX. @ 28PSI. After 8000 miles there has been no discernable wear across the entire tread. Go figure!
There may be something weird with my LE when it comes to tires or conversely there may be something weird with tires when it comes to my Pathfinder.
I thinking of picking up a used pth fndr. The one I'm looking is a 95 se, all option with about 112k, manual tran and is going for about $3500.
I'm pretty confident in these cars in terms of reliablity, but I'ld like to here fom you.
I know that a key factor in terms of reliablity is how well the car was maintained buy the pev owners, but I'ld like a general sentiment, as well as what kind of maintinace I should expect at these mls.
Plus, any idea how much to replace a clutch?
Steve, Host
I dont know where you live, but even if there is no Nissan dealer there must be some auto mechanic who can work on power windows. Should be a simple fix but you may have to spend some money out of your pocket.
Mahipal