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Comments
call it a "flare" than a jerk. I haven't contacted the dealer about it yet. Might
call monday.
If you want rugged all terrain tires...
Bridgestome AT KOs have been highly regarded.
I just put GoodYear AT/S on my brand-new XTerra- very pleased with the low road noise as well as the very aggressive look. It made the entire vehicle look WAY better.
What is stock on the PF? Goodrich Longtrails are nice and are often on the Nissans. (BF Longtrails were on the XE Xterra, and cheap General Grabbers were on the SE which I purchased and replaced).
Your job is to determine if the dealer really just wants to get rid of the 5spd or if he thinks he has a gem that he wants top dollar for (itsn't capitalism wonderful!). If it doesn't work out for you on this one (or you want a MUCH better selection to choose from), then call up to Toronto.
-Jon
Proud '01 Superblack SE 5spd owner 11K worry free miles.
Exzave
Enjoy
My 2 cents.
Steve
I just came back from my first road trip with my bayshore blue pf. What can i say except this machine is awesome! Tons of passing power and a very smooth controlled ride.
For power, I tapped into one of the wires that powers my sunroof. That way it activates when the car is on. Alternately, you could tap into a wire from the map light.
Here's a tip to tap into wires:
Cut the insulation on the wire with a razor blade (roll the wire as you put pressure on the blade, be sure not to cut all the way through)
Pull the wire on both sides of the cut to expose about 1/4" of the wire.
Use a needle to evenly split the wire strands apart.
Insert your wire through the hole, and wrap it around the original wire a few times, and insulate it with electrical tape.
If you ever need to restore the wire to 'factory', just remove the electrical tape and your wire, then slide the insulation back into place on the original wire. There will be only a small, nearly invisible 'slice' in the original wire's insulation.
If anyone else wants a jpeg of the schematic (from the Electronic Service manual), just let me know...It shows that area nicely.
Captain Ron. . .
ron.chase@internetmachines.com
I've done this with my last three vehicles and have never had a problem.
Tony
I intend on driving it back to it's original place in Ottawa from NYC to visit my brother in two weeks time. This will be my first long summer trip.
I have since switch from 5W30 to 10W30.
full5
is there any way you can send me a schematics or diagram of hooking up radar detector from a fuse box? my email is winston@livenet.net
thanks in advance.
I've installed many stereo's, alarms, and other gadgets in cars over the years. I started out with electrical tape and a razor and sticking bare wire in fuse boxes and as you learn from your mistakes you find better and more reliable ways of doing things.
I also will soon be wiring in a radar detector, I just finished hooking up trailer lights, about 5 minutes worth of wiring with the Scotch locks.
Good luck
I too went through a lot of trial and realized error in hooking up gadgets...I would just twist wires together and wrap it all up with electrical tape. After seeing almost all of these connections fail...some with a big puff of ozone-smelling smoke, I started to put a little more pride (and technology) into my install jobs.
When I wired my 86 Suzuki Samurai for sound, I spent 10 hours on that install...Took out the seats, all the carpeting and went to town. Everything was soldered, heat-shrunk, zip tied, etc... The results were well worth the effort. I had that truck 3/4 submerged at times and everything stayed tight and dry.
I now have a boat that I've been told, "Oh, your electrical connections will only last about a year or two in the salt air." Well, I stripped all of the wire out of the boat when I bought it (used) and replaced every foot of it with new. I used Anchor brand wiring and connections...crimps with temperature-active, adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. These are for the most part, occlusive seals. 4 years later, not a single failure!
Bottom line...take the time and often a little extra expense to do things right the first time.
"If you do 10 jobs at 90% quality...each one having only a 10% chance of failing...there's a 100% chance that something is failing all the time!" That extra 10% is worth the effort.
Anyway...sorry for the rambling...I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming...
Captain Ron. . .
I get your point though.
Captain Ron. . .
Who has a 50% chance at any given time of giving advice that could be applicable no less than 50% of the time given a + or - error factor of 5%.
Has any one up graded their Audio System as of yet?. And if so, how was the installation and the equipment used?.
Thanks to all.
full5.
-jc
Service manager told me that because of aggressive tread style of Pirelli's AT, it may causing the vibration.
That's a load of BS, an attempt by the service manager to get you off his back.
The exact same thing happened to my Prelude...Same tire shop, 4 new tires...shimmy for a few miles then they were fine. This happened for a a while and now it's not a problem (30,000 miles/1 year later on the Prelude - rock solid).
I'm also not noticing it as much on the Pathfinder with the Scorpions now with about 1,500 miles/1 month on the tires.
That's about the best I can tell you. Your case may very well be balancing...it is, afterall, the most likely thing to effect the balance!
What size did you end up getting? How do you like them? Off-road????
Captain Ron. . .
I just finish installing the bug deflector on my Super Black LE. What a change it makes. Wow! Genuine Nissan stuff! The way to go!
Anyway... As my GF is at work and my others buddies on vacation, I just felt the need to come on this forum and to tell my feeling!
Steve
What is part number for the Nissan Bug Deflector. and also the price and the Dealer in Canada.
Thanks.
full5.
The Bug Deflector was 80$ CDN and the part# is 99998-00100
Not expensive at all for a Genuine Nissan and very well made. I wasn't too sure about those 4 "bumpons" that I had to stick on the hood itself, but they (bumpons) don't show at all and they're are made by 3M (well known company).
Steve.
But the Bumpons that came with your B/D are to protect the body finish paint of the hooded area of your Pathfinder . If you do not stick them to the SPECIFIED AREAS, at high speed, the deflector will flap those areas and the paint will come off.
After installing the B/D, walk around it and press the B/D to the body. Where it touches is where to place the BUMPONS. The most common locations are both ends of the Head Lights and the Middle of the hood.
I have already bought an after market one from MacNeil at htt:// www.macneilauto.com (1-800-441-6287). About the same price as yours in USD. But if there is a big defference in them, i'll get the Nissan B/D.
full5.
Tomorrow AM I will be picking up my new "Bronzed Gray" 2001 4WD LE with Leather/Nav/Ent/Limited Slip. I am proud to be joining all you owners, I have already been given help by Captain Ron and Adam and look forward to driving this great vehicle. If anyone can, I would appreciate help with these two questions that I have not seen answers to:
First- The large gap behind the rear seats and before the security cover is nuts. Anyone can peer in and see the things I am trying to hide from prying eyes. A quick fix that comes to mind is using a similar color carpet remnant "flap" and duct taping it (underneath so as not to show) to the backs of the rear seats. Someone, somewhere must have found a better way to close the gap. (I can't recline the seats due to child seats in the rear)
Lastly- I ordered the rear cargo organizer and since my VCP (for the ent) sits on the rear floor I am faced with two options. One is cutting out an opening for the VCP with a razor, (which is crazy) the other is detaching the VCP and have it bounce around the back on top of the organizer (more crazy).
Thanks for all your great advice, I look forward to your advice on this.
-Steve
Quiet Man
As for the bumpons, I did install them as shown on the inst. guide (2 on each side - 1 at the far end edge of the hood, the other at the limit of the point where the hood step higher) as for the middle, the B/D comes quite close to the hood (if pressure is applied) without touching it.
Steve
I do not trust the sales resp at the dealer because they don't seem to know much about the Path. ie. They told me that the Path had metal sheet underneath for off-roading.. well we all know that ain't true... See what I mean...
I'm curious cause last winter I got stuck in snow and notice that the rear wheels weren't turning at the sametime, or is it just the LSD having some limitation???
Steve
My B/D also came with two small screws to be install under neath the hood. The 3M adhesive that came with it did not hold well, so I had to use them. There should also be at least(1.3cm) room between the hood and the B/D for periodic cleaning.
Full5.
have a LSD.
AWD: The AWD (with a knob and not shift lever) can be turned on at any speed. With AWD you are turning on a pump in the transfer case and the only time the front axle drives is when the rear speed sensors detects wheel slipage---On ice,snow,ect.
I don't have schematics or diagrams but it's really easy to do. Also, other's have made comments on how to better tap the power cord into the fuse box. They're probably easier and better ways to do it but until it fails, I'm going to leave things as is. Okay, here is what I did:
1. Cut-off lighter adapter from power cord (my radar detector had a coiled and straight one, I cut the straight one)
2. Strip 1 inch of the cord covering to expose wires
3. Remove cover to the compartment box to the left of the steering wheel. Behind it is the fuse box.
4. Pull fuse #15 (Lighter, that's the one I used)
5. Wrapped exposed wire of powercord around prongs of fuse
6. Push fuse back into place
7. Run powercord down and out from the bottom of the fuse box (not throw the compartment door)
8. Run powercord up and around the side plastic moulding to the left of the fuse box
9. Slide powercord behind the black gasket that runs all the way to the roof (pull open with fingers and push powercord behind
10. From the roof, run powercord through visor clips to the other side of visor
11. Connect to radar detector
12. Hide any extra powercord behind plastic moulding next to fusebox
Any questions, let me know.
Tony
Good to hear from you again. Glad the Canadian purchase went well for you. It's hard to pass up a few thousand dollars of savings. I think you are about number 50 that I've heard back from on going to Canada. I'm happy I could help out.
-Jon
-Jon