Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Jeep Grand Cherokee



  • woohahwoohah Posts: 14
    I was wondering if people have had good experiences with the vehicle or are all of them junk. I just drove one yesterday and it drove really nice. But with all these problems and no warranty left it scares me. Any suggestions would be nice.

  • rinkinkinrinkinkin Posts: 35
    No, I don't think a lot of them have problems. I am not speaking on behalf of DC but in this part of the country , I am surprised that there are lots of SUB's and a lot of GCL and 99% of them are equipped with V8 ID and yet I don't hear anything negative about the '99+ GCL's . The only common problem that is common to most is the rotor-warp issue. The gear whine problem is random and most can be avoided if you stay with the Select Tram or the QT. When I read this board, it gives me the feeling that either they are very good or very bad. But when I see aLL the GCL V8 ID's flying around. I must say it is not a piece of junk.
    read my post 419 and 440. Good luck.
  • rookie7rookie7 Posts: 1
    I am in the process of purchasing a 97 JGC LTD with only 20,000 miles. Two things concern me with this:

    1) The tires are pretty worn for only having 20,000 miles. The dealer explained is as having crappy tires on it.

    2) They said the brakes needed some work. Probably turning the rotors. The rotors scare me after reading some posts on this board.


    Any advice on this is priced under $17,000
  • muttmblmuttmbl Posts: 3
    I purchased a new JGC, my first new vehicle, and had nothing but problems with it from day one to the day I happily traded it in. The initial reliability was awful - fuel sending unit(s), roof rack rattle (that never went away), rear glass leaking (which when fixed by the dealer resulted in multiple scratches on the car and a dent from the inside out which is unrepairable), transmission issues, rotor issues, door panels that peeled, auto door locks that didn't, buldging dashboard, stereo speakers - you get the picture. I had that car in the shop more than the 15 year old car it replaced. When asked if I would purchase another Jeep on their infamous questionaires they send you my answer was always "only with a fully loaded gun held close to my head". Of course there was no follow up. My next car was foreign and has, so far, had much greater reliability in all categories and the dealership is excellent.
  • fonerfoner Posts: 1
    I also have 95 jgc with the knocking noise when turning sharp after driving for 20 mins. Estimate by transmission shop indicated the viscous coupling is bad. $1400 to fix or $1700 for entire case. Appears to be a common problem with the 93-95 models. Recall was denied in 1999 because it was found to not cause a safety problem. My AC also doesn't work. Appears to be leaking in the dash somewhere as no leak found up front.
  • jenjayjenjay Posts: 2
    We are looking at a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.9 Limited with 28000mi, fully loaded, and no warranty. Any advice from 5.9 Limited owner's? Would any jeep owner recommend getting an extended warranty? The seem to run about $400/yr depending on length of warranty. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. BTW this car will be for our college senior daughter who definitely needs a 4X4 where she is.
  • fishrxmanfishrxman Posts: 31
    I purchased a 2001 Jeep GC Ltd on 10/31/00 with a V8 engine, tow group and cold weather group for Wisconsin winters and have reported regularly on the problems I have encountered. I was not happy with the service at the dealer where I purchased my Jeep and now go to a different dealer. The Five Star dealer has done an exceptional job fixing the problems. My vehicle now has 10,100 miles at nine months. A gear whine always occurred when decelerating at about 1400rpm or 55-60mph. The problem: rear differential bearing failure. They disassembled the rear differential, replaced bearings, cleaned the diff housing axle tubes (metal in housing), resealed and filled with fluid. The vehicle was in the shop for a full day. I can't imagine what this would have cost without warranty. All other problems I've had are resolved. I want to stress that I REALLY LIKE MY JEEP. I have not experienced warped rotors, clunks or bumps. I did experience the infamous death wobble with my '93 GC Laredo due to a failed part in the steering assembly which the dealer promptly replaced (yes, that was scary). The decision on the extended warranty can wait for 3 years or 36k miles. JGC is an excellent 4x4 vehicle. Every vehicle will have problems. One should expect more problems with a vehicle with lots of parts, like a 4x4 SUV. I report my problems to help others, not to bash Jeep. Thanks to all for your observations and insights.
  • cpheil1cpheil1 Posts: 2
    I had warped rotors on all four wheels from day one until I finally replaced them after the delaership tried laser cutting them and charging and arm and a leg. I had the pinion seal on the rear-end blow out. Now the right rear axle baering is out and after getting two places to try and identify problem, it looks as if the rear axle will need to be taken apart and pieced back together. I only have 69,580 miles!!! I have looked on this message board and seen others with the same whining noise or noise in general from the rear-end and looks like the majority of the people had the same problem. Has anyone been able to get Jeep to help pay for their repairs and why have they not made a recall on this?
  • cpheil1cpheil1 Posts: 2
    Read my experience in #487.
  • oxx93oxx93 Posts: 67
    I have a 99 GCL--v6 with 30,000 miles. Have not had any major complaints--just some nagging problems---have the infamous bump in shifting and the brakes squeak all the time. Service has been ok--except for the time we needed the front pass. window fixed b/c it would not go down--got the vehicle back with window fixed but could not open the door now from the inside. My lease is up soon--any changes on the 2002.
  • livetodrivelivetodrive Posts: 104
    You mentioned you can't open the door from the inside. Have you checked the child-proof door switch? It could cause this condition.
  • shark110shark110 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the note--I did check the child locks but that was not the cause. The dealer did something when they fixed the window. Anybody hear anything about changes for 2002?
  • rinkinkinrinkinkin Posts: 35
    stay at
    click Review
    then Future Telling
    and click Jeep or scroll for Jeep at bottom of Future Telling.
  • 51willys51willys Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 JGC 4X4 Auto,tow package, 58,000mi, moderate off road use (<5,000mi), bilstein shocks, no other mod. Has been extremely reliable, comfortable for 5, great off road -loaded w/camp gear for 5, stable, could use greater ground clearance though--great skid pan set from factory helps. Problem started at 54,000mi, vibration in front end at around 60 MPH on load only, coasts w/out vibration. Becomes much more noticeable at 75-80 MPH. Dealer thought entire front needs rebuild, Ring & Pinion, bearings etc and drive shaft ($1,800)Determined by test drive only without looking in front diff. cover!

    Any other similar experience? results?
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Posts: 5,751
    Lot of talk about the Grand Cherokee 2002 Overland, biggest change I guess is the 270hp/330 torque engine with antiknock sensors. Lots of other doo-hickeys.
  • nikibluenikiblue Posts: 5
    Finally returned my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee limited v8, 4x4, quadra drive, up country piece of junk.
    DC finally bought it back when I hired a lawyer. Arbitration process was useless. I only got results when I went to a lawyer. Advice to all, don't give up. It took me over three month to get rid of this truck. I will never buy a jeep product again. In the year 2001, a $40k truck should be luxurious as well as reliable. Jeep just proved that they still cannot build a reliable vehicle after all these years a Jeep is still a Jeep --UNRELIABLE SUV that can get you anywhere if you can keep it running. Good luck to all.
  • We bought our 97, 6 cyl. jgc 4 years ago. We have 70,000 miles of trying to enjoy it, the usual rotor problems & endless trips to dealers to shut off, "check engine lights." The latest bout after being tired of dealerships was taking it to a specialty shop. It seems the car wants to stall as you excelerate in the 30-40 mph range. We can watch the rpm's fluctuate between 100-500 rpm's as she goes almost into a stall, there is no stall, just as decress in speed, some shuddering, then things seem to clear out and all is fine. We can go a few days or just a few miles before this happens again. The specilty shop first replaced the computer, @ the rate of $700, two weeks later same light, replace the fuel pump. Drive two days same problem, car looses power, wants to stall. Shop says fuel filter is in the gas tank & doesn't get changed. Please any ideas, this is a safety issue! We'd like to keep and enjoy this suv, but our patience is wearing. Ted
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    NHTSA has now received 144 consumer complaints of "inadvertent rollaway in reverse" involving 1995-1999 Grand Cherokees.

    Jeep safety probe widens

    Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

  • tom_tom_ Posts: 25
    To help prevent any vehicle from moving, always apply the parking brake before exiting.
  • the safest way is to turn off the engine. The parking brakes cannot hold the vehicle if it is in gear.
  • wfbartowfbarto Posts: 58
    As I review the old posts on this board I see that there are numerous complaints about brake rotor warpage. Could someone look in their Owner's Manual and see what the wheel lug nut tightening spec is in ft-lbs. and post it to the Board? The reason I ask is that I am getting suspicous that many of the car/truck manufacturers are specifiying too high of a wheel lug nut tightening torque spec for vehicles. I currently have three vehicles - two of them specify 100 ft-lbs. for the lug nuts and the other one 75 ft-lbs. The two with the higher factory spec have both exhibited rotor warpage. The one with the lower torque spec - not a bit after 55,000 miles! One of the vehicles with the 100 ft-lbs. spec I purposefully reduced to 85 ft-lbs. about 15,000 miles ago and so far guess what - no warpage or pulsating brakes! Since it is a well known fact that overtightening the lug nuts leads to rotor warpage - perhaps there is a direct correlation here. Overtightening is a common problem when you take your vehicle into the dealer or a tire shop as most of them will simple use the air gun ratchet to put your lugs back on without individually measuring the final torque settings - easy and quick is the way they go! I would be interesting in hearing if anyone else has any knowledge or experience in what I am describing - and I would also be interested to see what the Grand Cherokee lug nut tightening spec is. Thanks!
  • re my previous messages.
    At time of third and warranty rotor replacement at 19500 km, I specifically asked my rep. to make sure they use torque wrench to tighten nuts ; he defensively said they always do that.
    I retraced the events that happened ever since I p/u my 2000 GCL last Sept. -- first the dealer upgraded my tires for free so the factory torque specs are not followed, which may have led to rotor warpage at 6000 km and 12000km ( the tire rotation at 10000km was done at a tire shop and torque wrench wasn't used for sure--I watched)
    Now last week I check the last rotor replacement and guess what? The nuts were so tight it almost bend my back to loosen them. I retighten them by the historical way . I am observing how long this set of rotors will last. So far only 1200km had accumulated and hard to tell whether overtightening the nuts caused rotor warpage -at least for the GCL..
    Will report to board .
    note: manual spec around 185 - 225 ft pd.
  • I bought my '97 LTD 4x4 with I-6 and Up-Country new off of the lot. All of my problems, passenger seat motor, CD and fuel gauge, were fixed under warranty.

    I just clicked over 98k this past weekend. I do keep it well-maintained and serviced from a friend of mine whom I met before I knew he was a Jeep mechanic at Nalley Jeep in Roswell, GA.

    I run nothing but Goodyear Wrangler HPs on it and I normally get at least 25-30k on the tires before replacement (39k on two of the originals). I usually find some way of puncturing at least one tire just after I purchase four new ones. If the Jeep your looking at is a 4x4, then have all of the tires replaced at one time and keep them rotated accordingly.

    Yeah, I have the gear whine. But the stereo is awesome and will drown out the noise if you let it. It's a 4x4, so the noise comes with the territory. If you think the whine will be an issue, then you might want to consider a 2wd.

    Maintenance isn't cheap, but I've had a blast with mine.

    FYI, it's never jumped out of park.
  • wfbartowfbarto Posts: 58
    rinkinkin - are you sure that the manual says 185 to 225 foot pounds? That is ways too high and probably unachievable. Are you getting your units of measurement mixed up with metric equivalents. I see that you are from Canada and I bet the manual you have does not express the lug nut torque spec in foot pounds. That would seem to have to be the case! How about checking that again for me - thanks!
  • I just checked my manual. It says 85 - 115 ft pd.
    Thanks for letting me know the mistake.
    sorry folks,
  • wfbartowfbarto Posts: 58
    rinkinkin - Okay - that sounds more like it - but to get to the upper part of that range (115 ft-lbs.) you will really have to wrench your back with a torque wrench to get that high. I would use the lower number of 85 ft-lbs. and see what that does for the rotor warpage. I have also switched to ceramic material brake pads on my wife's Toyota Avalon and so far so good. They dust very little and they are supposed to be absolutely quiet - no sqweaking or sqwealing! I am not sure if they will run at lower temps or not which will also help with the rotor warpage issue.
  • I signed up for the Jeep 101 course. I get to spend an hour driving over an obstacle course, and the best thing about it is that it will be with a new Jeep Liberty, not my JGC. It sounds like fun. Has anyone tried it?
  • ecc1ecc1 Posts: 11
    I'm interested in the Grand Cherokee, but it sure seems to have it's share of problems. Anyone know if the 2001's are more reliable?
  • I am going to torque it to 85 in the morning and monitor the situation. Sure glad if this is the cause and I guess a lot of owners will be delighted too if it solves the rotor warpage. The next warpage will be from my own pocket.
    Thanks again
  • wfbartowfbarto Posts: 58
    I also had another person point out to me an interesting point that may be a contributing factor concerning rotor warpage. How many people wash their cars (either by hand or in the automatic car wash) right after they have operated them for some time and the rotors, wheels and brake components are steaming hot. A good shot of cold water on these components when they are hot must create a tremendous and rapid temperature drop. If the shot of cold water is not evenly distributed over the surface of the rotor (likely to happen when washing the car!) how much could this contribute or be a cause of rotor warpage! I don't know if there has ever been a study on this but wouldn't it be interesting to see if there is a correlation between the "washing" factor described above and those that have major problems with rotor warpage. I suspect that this "may" be a factor along with the lug nut overtightening mentioned in previous posts. Of course the selection of disc brake pad material (organic vs. metallic vs. ceramic, etc.) as well as the overall quality of the OEM rotor materials and the design of braking system (ie. are the rotors and calipers of sufficient design size for the weight and operating characteristics of the vehicle.) As for me I plan to use ceramic pads in the future, make sure the lug nuts are at spec (low end of the specified range) and won't wash the wheels until they have cooled off after operation.
Sign In or Register to comment.