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Jeep Cherokee



  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    If you go with a wider tire(225 to 235), you will need to reduce the aspect ratio(75 to 70) to prevent/reduce speedometer/odometer inaccuracies. It will help maintain handling characteristics as well.
  • fvpfvp Posts: 147
    Tomorrow I am going to get four new 225/75R15 Michelin LTX M&S. I decided to stick with the stock size and go to a tire store that specializes in Michelins vs. getting a "Club Tire" that only is sold by NTB or Sears [such as XCXAPT].
    Plus, the add ons per tire at NTB[balance:$11.00, stems:$2.50, tire disposal:$2.00 and state fees:$1.00] are much higher than at a local store. For instance, the local guy charges $1.00 per tire for disposal, which means in addition to the profit on the tires, NTB makes a buck on each tire they take in. I'd rather give my business to a local guy anyway.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I almost got the Michelin LTX M&S. Instead, I got Toyo Tranpath S/U which I have been very pleased with. They have since been superceded by the Toyo Open Country A/T. A friend who was buying at the same time got the Michelins, and she seems very happy with them. Anyway, I am sure the LTXs will be a great tire. Enjoy!
  • fvpfvp Posts: 147
    I'm glad you have had success with the Toyo's - I have to admit, I didn't give them much consideration. I live in Western PA and you don't see those tires around here much.
    I know a number of people that have gone to the Michelin tires and all give them a thumbs up.
    I'll let you know how things go with the Michelins - I sure hope they last longer than the stock Goodyears [13,600 miles].
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The Toyos are actually an all-terrain tire as opposed to a Highway All-Season, like the GoodYears and the Michelins. The Toyos probably aren't as smooth and quiet as the Michelins on the road, but they are definitely better in both areas than the GoodYears, plus they are pretty good off-highway when needed. My stock GoodYears lasted about 28,000 miles. I think they were the Wrangler RT/S. Anyway, they were crappy, and I am glad I got rid of them. I have 24,000 miles so far on the Toyos with 7/32 of tread left . I imagine I will get Open Country A/Ts when it is time to replace these.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I installed the IPF H4 Replacement Headlights last night. The difference was dramatic. The light was brighter and better defined. I still have some fine tuning to do with aiming one of the lamps, but I am very pleased with the improvement I got for about $100.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Does anyone have one? Is there a huge increase in wind noise or decrease in fuel economy? Now that I have AAA, and I wouldn't have to get the tire down myself, I was thinking it might free up some luggage room inside.
  • I've thought about doing it myself but since my wife parks it daily in a parkade with only 6' of clearance...

    It will kill 1 or 2 mpg and will raise the centre of gravity a bit. Lots of people have done it but if you're going to be mouting anything larger than the stock tires, maybe more than to 31" diameter, you might want to look at a rear bumper and carrier instead. A 30" tire will fit inside the Cherokee with a little love.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Many current model SUVs wouldn't fit in that parking deck. A Liberty Limited 4WD would have less than 1" of clearance. A Liberty Renegade wouldn't fit due to its light bar.
  • I had to measure the height of the Jeep when I saw that. A stock Cherokee with a roof rack is 5' 9". I've been in the parkade and it is low, but sometimes they post the signs lower than it really is.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    So, you are saying that a Cherokee is 69 inches high? According to the 2001 brochure, it's 63 inches high. You're telling me that the roof rack takes up 6 inches? It doesn't look like it does. R-U Sure ?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    If the cherokee is too high for that garage (running stock) then that's a big problem because most minivans are taller than the XJ.
  • I guess I should have looked at what I typed. "A stock Cherokee with a roof rack is 5'9"". What I should have said is MY Cherokee is 5'9" because that was what I measured it to be to the top edge of the roof rack. Granted that's by eyeballing it, but I'll stand by my number. BTW that's an empty stock Cherokee Sport with a stock suspension and stock tires and only 30k km when I measured.

    Like I said the parkade is more than likely higher than 6' but signs around here regularly underestimate the height of garages. I don't know why, but they do.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I drove by several of the parking garages where I work today. Most were 7'2", but a couple were 6'6" and one was 6'0". I was shocked to see the last one, but it is an old structure, so I guess most vehicles were shorter then. Still, my wife's parking garage is one of the 7'2" ones, so it looks like I will be getting the roof mounted tire carrier. That should give me enough room so that I don't have to put anything in the rear seat when we travel.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    I have a loft in my garage, not for people, for "things" and all I know is that a GRAND Cherokee would not fit in (in height) nor would any other Sport Utilily, which didn't really matter, as I wanted a (XJ) Cherokee, and it fits nicely. Otherwise it was only a Subaru Forester or an Outback that would fit. Even the then "new" Ford Escape was too high. I am positive the new Liberty also would NEVER fit in ! I fail to understnad WHY they all have to be so HIGH. Leaglly you're not allowed to load items above the BOTTOM of the window glass, for visibility pruposes, yet they keep making them HIGHER
  • Has anyone had experience with a failing fan motor - apparently due to an electrical problem? I own a 1996 Cherokee that I took in 5 times during the factory warranty period for repair. Three fan motors and two switches later, I still have intermittent problems with no fan power - comes on and off for seemingly no reason, but almost always when its really cold outside. 1 month before the warranty expired, the dealer said they'd take the front end apart and find the errant wire. But when I took it back, the blower was working. I was told someone must have kicked the wiring under the dashboard on the passenger side - I'm not kidding. The technician checked and the contacts were good, so the problem remained a mystery. The motor worked for six months, and then it stopped. Chrysler said it was no longer their problem since the warranty expired. Also, the dealership was sold and the new owners don't even want to talk with me. I want to sell this very costly beast, but I hate to sell it knowing the fan might quit working at any moment. Of course, I hate driving it not knowing whether I'll have heat or not. Typically, driving after a deep snowfall (3.5' or more) or after a high powered car wash triggers several months of no blower. Anyone with a similar problem? Better still - has anyone had this problem and found a solution?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Well, I ordered a roof mounted tire carrier off of eBay. Got a good deal too. I paid $86 ($100 with shipping). Regular price used to be $157 before they discontinued it. It should arrive on Friday, just in time to install this weekend. :)
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    I hate to say it, but you probably should have pushed Jeep a little harder. If you have documentation that it has been a problem all along, you can probably take your dealer to small claims court, and get them to fix it for free. They inherited all of the old owner's customers when they purchased the dealership. For tough electrical problems, Jeep can and will (if you request it) fly in a corporate technician trained in the trouble area. They real problem is that you waited so long to get mean. A 6-7 year old vehicle is hard to get fixed under warranty. Good Luck!
  • When I try to put the gear back into 2 wheel drive it wont go. Someone told me to back up a while and it will pop back into 2 wheel drive. This sounds rediculous, Any thoughts or expalnations or advise?
  • Can someone please explain the difference between Part time and Full time 4 wheel drive on my 95 cherokee country? Im new at this 4 wheel stuff.
  • I want to tow a Pop up camper and Im wondering if this car is suited to that. And do I need a transmission cooling system as indicated in the manual.?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    part-time is only to be used on slippery surfaces, full-time can be used on any surface. When shifting, sometimes you need to give it gas or release the accelerator before it will shift. Sometimes it takes awhile when going from full-time to part-time or vice versa.

    Part-time 4X4 locks the front and rear axles and sends power to each end 50/50.

    Full-time employs a center differential and sends power to the front when slippage occurs in the rear. Happens very quickly, but the part-time can be better for certain situations. If your not off-roading or in very severe situations, full-time is more than capable. Driving in either full-time reduces your fuel mileage though, so it's up to you if you just want to leave it in full-time or switch on when needed.
  • Thanks for this info, very helpful. What situations do think it would be valuable to use part time?
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    The Cherokee should be able to handle towing a pop-up camper without much problem. You may want to consider the transmission cooler if you are going to do it a lot or over large distances. Aftermarket ones are available if the Mopar solution has been discontinued. The Mopar package included a heavy duty radiator and auxiliary fan as well.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    Make sure you are in a forward gear and that the wheels are pointed straight ahead and you have plenty of room to work. Accelerate to about 10mph, then back off the gas. Attempt to put shifter back into 2wd. If it doesn't work, give it a little more gas, then let off again and attempt to shift back to 2wd. Repeat if necessary. If it still won't go, then you will need to have a mechanic look at it. It does take some effort to move the shifter, and, if the 4WD hasn't been used much, it may grind a little when you push on it. Good luck!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Very deep snow, very deep mud, etc. Driving in normal snowy conditions (plowed roads, some clear roads, etc) full-time is great. You can damage the drivetrain by driving on non-slippery surfaces in part-time.
  • I am interested in buying Bridgestone Duelers and wanted to know if using 235 75 R15 is a bad Idea, they are larger than the reccomended size. Whats the advantage vs. disadvantage?
  • Thanks for the advise on my 4 wheel drive. I tried what you reccomended and it worked great.

    Thanks alot.
  • jimsxnjimsxn Posts: 108
    All I want to do is to have the benefit of upright seating, 4-W drive in snow, space for carrying hockey kit, medium towing power (a small boat). I would also "like" to have sharp maneouverability and 5 speed control. I don't want to spend too much time and money in repairs.

    You veterans...advise me please.....
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Certain 235 tires (slight variances amoung the manufacturers) will rub under extreme off-roading conditions. Doubtful you'll have any problems with that otherwise. It will throw your speedometer off by about 5% and will slightly zap your power because the gearing is designed for the 225's. Probably only really notice on hills in overdrive. I was going to to to a larger size but it's very hilly here and I'm a power freak. The 235's look a bit better, but the performance difference is neglible IMHO. A skinny tire is better in snow/rain, a wider tire better in mud/sand/ice. But again it's like a 1/2" difference going to 235's. BTW, you can't go any larger than 235's without a lift or they will rub.
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