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Jeep Cherokee



  • Any half-way decent auto shop should be able to replace the belt for much cheaper than the dealership would. Or you could pick up a Factory Service Manual from the dealership (probably about the same cost as having them replace the belt - $85-90) and do it yourself.

    The grinding noise from the back could be a few things. Have you had the fluids changed in the Transmission/Transfer Case/Differentials? Are there any leaks? If you grap the rear driveshaft by hand, do either of the ends have any play in them (up and down or side to side)?
  • Yes, I love you guys on here. I was in the new-car business for many years, and you guys bring back memories of why I got out of it!
    Let's recap here for a moment!! You want to buy the new vehicle for invoice, minus incentives, both factory-to-consumer cash, as well as factory-to-dealer cash, thereby paying considerably less for your car than the actual dealer paid for it. Then you want full retail price for your trade. Actually you want over retail for it, because you want for it what you see other vehicles similiar to your advertised for in the newspaper! (You know that dealers never get those used car newspaper prices, because you know everyone negoatiates a cheaper price, but because you saw THAT price in the High Holy paper , then that's the price you want for yours.)
    Dealers are not subsidized by the Federal Govn't. nor is there a Red-Cross on top the building.
    Fellas, it's called PROFIT, free enterprise, capitalism, etc, etc. No dealer will ever pay more than wholsale for your trade, just as no jeweler will pay over wholesale for your diamond or watch. Dealers have many added expenses that you fail to recognize, such as reconditioning, giving next buyer a warrentee, advertising your trade, fixing what's busted, and...Oh Oh here it comes again....Profit, so that they are in business, when you return with a problem!
    When YOU sell it privately, from your do not incur these expenses. Well maybe a little 3 line newspaper advertisment, but that's all. Nobody's trying to "steal" your trade-in, it's that dealers are in the Business, and you are not.
    On another note, the cheapest price is frequently NOT the best deal!! Dealers who "sell cheap" more oft than not have typically lousey service departments, and local area (other) dealers know this & will refuse to fix "their" cars, forcing their customers back to them. Buying a car is like going out to eat. Long after you pay the bill, you'll remember how the food was! Long after you have forgotten how much you paid for the car, you'll remember how the service was!!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Well in general, you're right although the dealers have brought a lot of this onto themselves. When I think of "steal" it's more when a dealer tries to give you well under wholesale just to monkey with you. My last deal that I traded a vehicle: the new car was at an out-of-town dealer that wouldn't trade for some reason. So I go to visit the out-of-town dealer and they had basically offered up $200 over invoice (no incentives on it) before I even drove out. That was fine, except when I get there they offer me $2500 less on my trade than the local dealer was going to do (on the same near invoice deal). I told them sorry dudes, I'll just order one. They magically decided they could meet the other deal. I passed because I don't deal with crooks and they were trying to "steal" my trade plain and simple. I was going to trade a Camry last year. The dealer told me they could only give me $500 for it (high miles, but a loaded V6 nonetheless). Went to another dealer that offered $1500 for it on a near invoice deal. Bought the new car straight and sold the old one to a friend for $2500. I didn't really expect to get over $2500 on a trade but thought I'd see since they were Toyota dealers and usually know what they can get out of those cars. It was an easy $3500 sale at a dealership.

    I've had no trouble selling cars outright and usually come out far ahead. I think people think they are really get a good deal because it's a private sale, or just like not dealing with a dealer. We have quite a few vehicles personally and through my business (15 ish) and I haven't traded one since '98. Office is on a busy road so I just stick them out with a sign and that's that.
  • I actually had to park my brand new Jeep for 2 weeks while I was trying to sell my last car. I sold it for $5800 (having initially paid $6500 a year and 50k km previously) while the dealership I was dealing with was looking to give me $3000 and wouldn't go any higher. In my opinion, you are always better off selling your car yourself. By not trading your vehicle in, you've removed one more variable for the dealership to play with.
  • ecatecat Posts: 11
    after paying $70 to have my check engine light diagnosed, someone told me that in the Cherokee, you can turn the ignition on/off/on/off/on/off within 10 seconds and the check engine light will blink out a code that can be translated to what the problem is, however I tried that on my '96 and got nothing (maybe its telling me my computer is bad ).

    After discussing it with someone else, they said on their car, they had to jumper something in the fuse box in order for the built in diagnostics to work.

    Can anyone shed some light on this?
  • jh25jh25 Posts: 1
    97' Cherokee starts emits at 25 mph, with increasing frequency as speed increases, a rubbing sound which can be heard and felt while driving. I've noticed this sound goes away while either 1) applying light brake pressure (not enough to brake) and 2) while turning on a curved road, and the immediately returns. Noise also emitted when I put it into neutral and coast. Any guesses?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    it's off: on-off-on-off-on leave it on and the check engine light will kick off, then start blinking. All codes are two digits with a pause in between (blinks twice, pause, blinks, three

    times, pause) = code 23. check this link:

    Complete instructions and what the code descriptions. Check out the home page as there is tons of info about XJ's there.

    Or go to autozone, they'll do it for free.

  • Did we strike a nerve or what. I'm talking about these dealers that want to give you wholesale and then ask for sticker price. Then they knock a grand or two off and tell you what a good deal they are giving you. Biggest liars I've ever been around are car dealers. Look you in the eye and lie to you. Fortunately around my area of the country a few dealers quit this pratice (they make a little profit on each deal) and it forced most of the others to get back in line with them. Profit is one thing but flat out screwing someone over is another. Don't expect me to feel sorry for these dealers. I cringe when I think of how bad they put it to someone who has no clue as to what they are doing.I've witnessed some of the "Profits" these people have made off of misinformed customers. Most dealers are "volume" dealers anyway. Let's see can I sell 100 cars and make $1000 on each and have people come back or sell 25 and make $4000 and have them not come back. And don't think for a minute the $4000 figure is out of range. I've bought numerous vechicles in last 10 years where I got them from $3000-$4000 less than their first offer. As far as dealers refusing to work on cars from other "cheap dealers" I have not seen that happen yet either. They are usually more than happy to take on the warranty work. What about dealer holdback money isn't this part of your "profit" too. I don't see too many dealers going bankrupt, they just keep expanding. On more than one occasion I've had to physically take my keys from these jerks as they have insulted me with their outragous offers and won't let me walk out.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I'd love for a car sales person to try that old trick with me. Cell phone, cops, citizen's arrest for theft, Channel 7 news :-).

    Hard to believe that there are still guys pulling that or throwing keys on the roof....

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  • Yes, to reply to your statement, a person will always do better selling their old car themself. They can ask what the dealer would ask, and sell it for the best offer that they get. No forms need be signed either. It's sold as is, where is & how is.
    Especially if it's a high mileage car/truck. I would definately suggest first trying to sell your "trade" yourself. It's really not that difficult, and well worth the effort!
  • Hello everyone. I own a 98 Jeep Cherokee Sport and yesterday when taking the parking break off, the button shot out along with the spring. The button is mostly hollow inside with the exception of a cylinder that attaches on to a metal pin inside the lever. The inside of the button along the cylinder is cracked. My question is has anyone had a problem similar to this and if so, can I just buy a new button or do I have to buy the whole lever and for what cost? Let me know.
  • Hi Guy's, Yes I am a Cherrokee owner and proud to be one. I have a 99 Limited and love everything about it. Could use a glove box light though. I just wanted to put in my two cents on all this dealer talk. I am currently in sales training at a Chevy Pontiac dealer. The Training is conductded by a 25 year veteran salesman. I HATE SALESMAN! But I would like to try to sell cars. Thus far there has been no talk of how to Screw the customer. It's all about non aggressive tactics, and selling the customer on the car he/she wants. Wheather it be a base model or top line.Trying to make a sale on what they can afford, not what your wallet wants. Of Course its all about profit.There has also been no talk of sneaky tactics, just selling yourself, the dealership and the car that the customer wants. I am quite impressed so far.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    News from the "inside" is always fun - thanks! You might enjoy this article (then again, you might not, lol):

    Confessions of a Car Salesman



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  • YES, cherokeelmt I agree! I was amazed to find that 1999-2001 Cherokees (even Limiteds) do not have glove box lights! I asked at my service department, and they told me it was quite a job to install, and not worth the hourly rate to do. If you have the Illuminated vanity mirror, adjust it to thebrightest setting and fold forward all the way to the windshield and she'll shed some much need lite on the subject. I believe that pre-1999 Limiteds do have this!
  • fvpfvp Posts: 147
    Hi Everyone!

    Great reading about all your advice - keep it up!

    I own a 2001 Cherokee Sport with 13,000 miles on the clock. After reading most of the almost 800 posts on this site, I can say that our Cherokee has experienced many of the problems that were posted throughout the site.

    One issued I have not seen mentioned is engine ping. My truck pings pretty good unless I use premium gas. Anyone else with this problem or is it time to visit my friendly neighborhood Jeep Dealer again?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I've found mine runs best on regular and gets better mpg too. I've gotten some ping, but usually only climbing a hill with a trailer or really hammering on it. I switched to Champion truck plugs around 15K miles and that fixed any ping I was getting. I'm at 60K miles on my '01 and recently swapped the plugs again, this time using bosch platinums. Didn't really notice a difference between those and the truck plugs. You might try plugs initially as it's a pretty easy and cheap swap.
  • fvpfvp Posts: 147
    Thanks sebring 95 for the plug suggestion - I never thought of truck plugs. Premuim gas around here [Western PA] is about $1.60 per, so it gets pretty tiring putting $26.00 in the tank every 5 days or so.
  • boggseboggse Posts: 1,048
    My 98 Classic pings on 87 Octane "reformulated" fuel. If I fill up locally, I have to jump to 89 to avoid pinging. I had the dealer repogram the ECM twice to no avail. I guess I am just stuck with buying 89 Octane for now. I already run with Bosch Platinum plugs. They did not seem to make a difference.
  • Hi Guy's, just checking in on the dealer talk. I have been selling for 10 days now and witnessed a saleswoman get into a truck with a customer, hide the tag that said 17,995 go for the demo ride and the customer said " I love it what is the price?" Saleswoman:"$22,995" Customer: " Great! I'll take it!" The truck was marked up 2 grand as it was and she went up another 5 grand and he took it! My point is A: Do your homework! B: I think I have too much integrity for this job to make any kind of "real" money. Dissapointing. I did sell two cars at invoice ( What a profit in that!) oh well I'll hang in a little longer.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    Wow! Did the woman have neon signs on her coat identifying her as a "Sucker" or "Loaded" or what?

    I don't think I'll ever go to a dealer again without a price in hand before I get there.

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  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    I have been out of car sales since 1996, 6 years now. I have a question for you. What is your base salary? That is what you'd make for your 56 hours a week, should you NOT sell anything. When I began in the business in 1969 it was $75.00 a week. When I left the business in 1996, it was also $75.00 a week, and this was universal. After mandatory taxes the net-net was $62.00 a week. On a $2,000 profit, a "lot charge" (way to steal money from salespeople) of $200.00 was deducted. I was paid 20% of the profit, so on a gross of $1,800.00 I made $360.00. Figure up from the moment she first said hello to the customer, until the customer drove off in the vehicle, how much time she spent either speaking with the customer, doing paperwork related to the deal or whatever else. Statistics say time spent per deal is 2 & 1/2 hours, average. So it's like $150.00 an hour, not UNrealistic in the 21st century!! She picked up an extra $360.00 on that deal. Personally, I would not have done what she did. It was not right, and I sure don't condone her doing such. To me, it's cheating.
    But, as an adult married man it's very difficult to live on $75.00 (gross) a week, unless you're in a cardboard box, under a bridge somewhere. If you wanna make $$ in the car business, get thee to a Toyota dealership. Those things sell themselves, and you'll have an easier time and make more money too. Go to one on "the highway" in a lower income area and learn all you can about financing, or the oppisite extreme, Mercedes in a wealthy area. This will also involve learning to play golf and joining a country club! The mark-up on a Mercedes is $6,000. You do the math.........
    and....Best of Luck!
    If & when you get sick of it, you can do what I did....Buy a Dunkin Donuts. The mark-up on a donut is (percentage-wise) double that of a car! and they stand in line waiting FOR YOU! $1.25 for a cup of coffee that nets you $1.05 profit.
    If you stay with cars, don't cheat your customers, you'll never get a referral or a repeat customer, and therefore you'll not build a customer base, worthy of 1 cent. Be honest, give them a decent deal, and don't let them take advantage of you. If they get fresh to you, walk away from them, telling them "If you will not respect me, then go elsewhere" PERIOD.
  • Thanks for the advice Sandy boy. I think I will stick it out for a while and see If I can live off of selling cars honestly. I refuse to comprise my morals.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    btw, Cherokeelmt, there are some fun discussions over in the Smart Shopper Boards where several other salespeople hang out. Check 'em out if you haven't already. Look for the "inconsiderate buyers" one too, LOL.



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  • I have a 00 Classic, the lease runs out in Feb. I would not mind buying it but not at the price they say is residual. they say that price is set and they will not deal on it. It would seem to me that if they could sell it to me they save themselves the trouble of reconing it and trying to sell it. they are after me to "come in and get another one" is this story with the residual true or just more car jive?
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    It's true! Chrysler will pay them the residual, and other "credits" so why should they sell it to you, FOR LESS?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Just keep in mind that while you may be able to buy a similar jeep at a lower price (assuming that's true) you wouldn't know anything about it. It would depend on how much of a variance we were talking about, but I'd pay a slight premium to purchase a vehicle I knew everything about. I've known people to negotiate buy-outs, but they weren't with DC. I think they were still being overly agressive with their residuals in '99 and therefore to get those low payments you've enjoyed, the residual was set too high. They've learned from thier mistakes which you'll discover if you go lease shopping again. Plus you can't buy Cherokees anymore. Dealer I know says they've seen a bit of an increase in demand for clean Cherokees. Considering the liberty turd, I can understand.
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    Yes, the worst thing they did was to discontinue the XJ Cherokee. Very, very little had to be done to bring it up to 2003 levels. The Liberty is a joke! Why does it have to be so darn high and look so top heavy? Why does it have practicly no room between the tailgate & the back of the back seat? Why does it have to have that goofy-looking "Neon-esque" front end on it? Do you think it could ever continue to sell for 17 consecutive years, as did the Cherokee? In Cherokee's poorest year, 2001 (because it was the last year) it STILL sold 129,000 units!
    DAIMLER-Cry-slur is no better at designing a tough sport ute than DODGE would be at designing a $165,000 car! Dodge might be better!
  • We can all cry in our beers together :) and then go off-roading. At least I can tell people mine was one of the last ones built.

    All we need is someone with some cash to set up an importing business to bring in the slightly modified ones they are now building in China ( Too bad a North American company didn't buy the tooling and start producing them.

    It's hard to accept the cancellation of such a good selling, reliable vehicle that had all the tooling and factories paid for (and was making tons of profit for DC) just to produce something that "seems" to fit the market image better. If they would have done one more upgrade to the XJ including a rear coil suspension, a split rear seat with headrests and maybe a little more rear seat room they would have a contending vehicle for way less than the cost of producing the Liberty. Plus they should never have gotten rid of the 4.0 I6 in this class of vehicle. A simple, proven engine that nearly equals the 3.7 and offers more low end. I just hope someone up at DC eventually offers the 4.7 in the KJ.
  • I know that i got low payments because they set the residual high, the last thing in the worl i want os a Liberty or a GC so i guess I guess i will take it back and look for something else. The dealer i go to has one the lot for almost 1900 less than my residual price. I know the one I got but it is not worth that much more to me. Thr GM triple zero thing looks good
  • sandyboysandyboy Posts: 114
    Lengthen the XJ 6". Split that 6" two ways. Add 3" to the cargo area in length, and add the other 3" to the rear seat entranceway(s). Lengthen the rear doors 3". Add the factory option of a Power Moonroof. As you said, rear coil suspension and a split rear seat with adjustable headrests and a center fold-down armrest would be a nice touch. Make 16" tires & wheels standard across the line. Split the rear window, "a la" Ford's Escape, and allow the people who want cloth interior to order & get the 2 options that are restricted to the Limited, that being the overhead console & the Infinity audio system. For those who don't go "off Road" but want the 4WD for snow offer a "soft ride" suspension option. Make the exterior spare tire attachment a no-charge factory option, giving buyers a choice of where they want the tire, and if they chose outside, put it in a nice plastic color keyed cover, like Mitsubishi does on their Montero. Lets get that glove box light back in there, too. Can we get thicker pile carpeting in there as well?
    There....that's just about purr-fect!
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