Jeep Cherokee

dancerman

I had 40,000 miles on my '99 Sport when I replaced the front pads and resurfaced the rotors. The rotors were not warped, just shiney. I always hand torque my lugs nuts in a cross pattern. I think this helps. I am also a very conservative driver, that is, I am easy on the brakes.

mhall02

We now have 73,000 miles on our 2000 Sport with the original rotors still no it, untouched. I did put new pads on at around 40,000 but so far so good.

boggse

My 98 Classic had warped rotors at 11k and then again at 22k. After that I did not have a problem until about 60k. Apparently QA is not very good at Mopar.

kcarter3

My 95 cherokee runs very hot while towing a pop-up camper. is there anything I should do to improve the cooling. I think I also should add a trany cooler but am afraid that will make the heat worse.

rallytravis

If everything is working properly ie gauge is correct, fan is operating, belt tension, thermostat etc. you probably need a new radiator and I would get aux trans cooler to. I don't know how many miles you have on your truck or how well its been serviced but my experience has been the radiators on alot of cars start going south after 5or 6 yaers and over a 100k if not serviced/flushed regularly. what temp do you normally run and how high does it go. does turning ac off and heater on help?. How much does this camper weigh etc.

kcarter3

Rallytravis, thanks..My Jeep is a 95 cherokee country and its got 76,000 miles, maintained pretty well although never flushed the radiator as far as I know. Im towing a coleman popup camper about 2700 lbs. plus a full load in back with my kids, wife and I in front. normally the car runs at about 210-220 degrees. when towing it runs at 250-260 (red is at 255). it does get better when AC is off, I have been afraid to use AC when towing it so Ive kept it off. Do you know of an upgraded aftermarket radiator? and isnt the trany cooler situated near the radiator? will that impede the radiator performance?

Thanks

vin_weasel

Standard or auto? I'm assuming auto.

Get a tranny cooler if you don't already have one and keep it in 3rd when towing.
With the AC on it should run cooler because it uses the auxillary electric fan. Try opening the hood and turning on the AC and see if the other fan starts. If the Aux fan doesn't work that may be your problem right there.
Do a search on google for cherokee overheating problems and you'll find lots of different solutions.

rallytravis

MY 2000 cherokee which has 68000 miles on it runs about 210 degrees, anything over that and the fan comes on and keeps it there. It sounds like your marginal even without the trailor. That cooling system should of been flushed every 2 years at least or 24000 miles. Take a look at your owners manual. If your towing etc, you should be changing every fluid in that jeep once a year. My manual said you should use synthetic gear lube in the rear end if your towing as well. putting the aux cooler in front the radiator is fine. With the 6 cyl auto a/c you probably already have the biggest radiator. I still would not be suprized if the radiator was the problem esp if its slowly been getting worse as time has gone by. Thats a pretty tough motor but your asking for very expensive repairs if you keep running it like that.

sandyboy

Okay, in the past 2 days I've got a problem (maybe) with the '01 Cherokee Limited 4x4. 12,200 miles. It's the oil gauge. It has always stayed pretty much in the middle (or indicator pointer straight up (like at the 12 on a clock), with very little fluctuation. Suddenly it has decided to drop to the left, about 1/2 way between the middle and zero (like where "20" would be) whenever the car is coasting and I am not feeding gas. At red lights it's down there (to "20" as well as going down hill with foot off gas (or on brakes). Then under accelleration the indicator jumps back up to mid way. As soon as you get off the gas she drops down. I have never seen it bouncing around so much! Up down Up down . What is this all about ? Thanks!

sebring95

It's most likely the oil pressure sending unit. Mine went bad around that mileage as well. Mine is sporadic again at 70k miles. Doesn't effect anything but that guage (which most vehicles don't have anyway).

sandyboy

I called my selling dealer's service & they told me EXACTLY the same thing you said! Have appt. to check it out next Wednesday the 16th. My son is taking the Jeep tomorrow on a 55 mile "trip" and I just didn't want the engine to be "Oil Starved" and run into a big problem. 12,257 trouble free miles is better than any other car I have owned since 1975's Imperial. Overall, I give the car an A-
I have an exceptional dealer, Chrysler-Jeep of Maplewood, in Maplewood, New Jersey. Terrific Service Dept and terrific Sales Dept. They really do care about us customers. I'd gladly pay them $300.00 MORE on a new car than another dealer, because their service is so good. Imagine sitting in the waiting room and each time I do, the others are all taking about how great that dealership is!! Like listening to a commercial! Most are 3rd or 4th time buyers at that dealer! 70% sales are Jeeps & 30% are Chryslers.
Thanks again, Sebring95 - - Sandy
http://www.chryslerjeepofmaplewood.com/index.htm

mhall02

Just a few comments on the oil pressure question, after the vehicle is warmed up, oil pressure at a stop light/at idle is supposed to be lower (i.e. the RPMS are lower) and 20 is not unusual. However, at highway speed the oil pressure should climb w/ the RPMs and be around 45-60 (straight up or a little to the right of middle). This is discussed in you owners manual under the oil pressure gauge section and this is how my 2000 Sport has always been. As long as you are within the specs listed in the owners manual I wouldn't worry. If your driving 55+ mph and your still reading 20 or 30 on the gauge, I would be concerned with the sending unit.

sandyboy

What you describe is EXACTLY how it's working (drops at red lights - climbs under acceleration. When cold & 1st started, even stand still it's on the + side of the "40". I am concerned, because it never acted that way, before a week ago. It was always on the + side of the 40 (mid way mark). I checked the oil level & it's full.

sebring95

crapped itself, it just pegged at 80 or 90 or whatever the highest mark is. But I've noticed the new one floating around more than it should at times. It should move, but not back and forth like crazy.

fegaben

I have a 1999 Cherokee Sport with 70K. I recently had a short in the wiring harness for injector #3 causing the injector to stay open and flood the third plug with fuel. After having the harness repaired at the dealership and taking the car home, I noticed that the A/C no longer works. Specifically, when I turn the A/C on, the compressor/fan do not kick on and it blows air temp air from the vents. Since I have never had a problem with the A/C before (never a noisy compressor), I was thinking that because of the short on injector #3, I may have blown a fuse or switch connected to the compressor/fan. Anyone have any thoughts on where I can start?

mhall02

Wow, I just re-read your original post, only 12,000 miles on your Cherokee? That is really nice and low, we have almost 75,000 miles on our 2000 Sport (4.0 L) and it has been trouble free as well. Anyway, maybe your engine is a little more 'broke in' and the oil pressure is reading lower at idle, but like I said, take a look at your owners manual under the oil pressure gauge section and it discusses what the expected readings should be from this gauge.

sebring95

What were the symptoms that led you to have the harness changed on the injector? I have a very intermitent problem that I believe is an injector getting flooded also but haven't tracked down exactly what it is. Usually if I restart the engine while it's very hot (say within 10 minutes of a hard highway drive) it will hesitate and chug for a short time. Once it set the check engine light and was a "#4 cylinder misfire" which could be just about anything. I though maybe I had a bad injector that was leaking a bit and flooding the cylinder. Did yours do it all the time or just sometimes?

sandyboy

Well, I read owner's manual, and it's doing exactly what it states in there! I broke my appt. at my dealer! Thanks for the explanation(s) and attention. I hope I can return the favor some day.
Yes, she has 12,280 miles and is showroom perfect, without a door ding or scratch. Obviously stays "on road" ~ Gets hand washed weekly (winter included) and waxed every month, leather seats get treated with aloe vera and cream 3 times a year AFTER being cleaned to perfection. I have show cars, so I treat the Cherokee LTD the same way. (It's in the blood)!
Thanks again!
S A N D Y

fvp

I would like to thank everyone for the sound advice that I have been given over the last 2 years.
I have sold the '01 Cherokee Sport and take delivery on an '03 Toyota Highlander V-6 AWD next week.
Good luck to all you Cherokee owners out there.

fegaben

Sounds like you are experiencing very similar problems. My troubles started about 6 months/8K miles ago with a very intermittent problem. Once the car had been warmed up, then shut off and them re started, it would jump/jerk slightly when traveling at highway speeds. Occasionally, it would set engine codes 0203 (injector) and 0303 (misfire). Dealer could never duplicate the problem but after replacing plug wires, PCM (under warranty) and injector #3, I thought I had it licked. Then this weekend I started it up and could smell gasoline...when I pulled the #3 plug it was soaked and I could see gas burning out of the exhaust. Had it towed in and the dealer fixed the shorted wire and changed the oil because there was some gas in the oil. Seems to be fine now, but I'm still frustrated with this vehicle. This is only 2 months after replacing the transfer case! I hope this helps with your problem.

sayreman

Anybody out there ever have a problem with their fuel level sending unit? I have a 1998 cherokee. The fuel gauge moves up and down to empty and then back up and so on when I am in the middle of driving. It will frequently say I have no gas when I start up my jeep. Is it a pain to replace? Does the fuel tank need to be removed to do this?

mpp2

I have a 98 Cherokee classic, and my fuel gauge also does that. I think it started at about 40,000 miles, I had it checked by the dealer and IIRC, the quoted me about $175 to replace the fuel gauge sending unit. I never did it, and I now have 109,000 miles. It doesn't affect operation of the vehicle, but you have to keep track of the miles on your truck. I think this is a fairly common problem on 98's, there may even be a recall/TSB on it. My truck has been fairly reliable, but it does have some electrical gremlins. I've just learned to live with them.

sebring95

How'd you make out on the sale of your '01? Mine's still on the market and interest is about zero. If I go much lower on the price I might as well give it to someone.

fvp

I got lucky - plain and simple.
A couple responded to an ad I had in the "Pennysaver" - a small publication that has classified ads for all kinds of stuff. You may have something like it in your area.
Anyway, they had a Cherokee years ago and drove it for 12 years. They were looking for another 4 wheel vehicle and called me. They bought it on the spot in 5 minutes for $15,000.
In addition, they went to the Toyota dealer with me for a "courtesy delivery". In other words, the dealer where I bought the Highlander took the Jeep as a trade and subtracted the $15K off my price saving me over a grand in taxes. The couple that bought the Jeep made their check out to the dealer, not me. It worked out great for everyone.
I picked up the new Highlander last night - it's an AWD V6 model and we love it. It was expensive [the sticker was almost $32,000] but with the deal I did on the Jeep, it was doable.
Thanks again for your advice and best of luck with the new truck.
Frank

sebring95

You're quite lucky that's for sure. Maybe there's hope for me yet:) Good luck with the Highlander. Truck market seems to be a lot more stronger than the SUV/Car market. I'm used to buying high and selling low when it comes to vehicles, LOL!

fvp

Truck market strong around here [southwestern PA]as well. I started out looking for an 01/02 Ram or Tundra and the prices were pretty close to new. Not many deals to be had except on high mileage vehicles.
After much consideration, I passed on the full size truck and went with the new HL. Ended up spending $27K, but should have decent resale value once I'm through with it.
Remember the old adage: there's a buyer for every car out there!

mcsap

I happened to see one of these today for sale. 1996 model, 5 speed, 59K, very clean. Any comments on the engine ?

mhall02

My boss has a 1988 Dodge Caravan w/ the 2.5 four cylinder linked to a 3-speed auto. Its a dog in a Caravan, but seems reliable, timing belt went at 160,000 miles (should change around 100,000) and blew a head gasket also, which I don't think this is too uncommon after 100-150,000 miles. The 4.0 is an awesome engine, however, I don't know if you are thinking strictly gas milage or its a great deal, but I would recommend a 4.0 over a 2.5, great power for a little less gase milage. My 4.0 auto gets 16 city and 20 highway consistently.

sebring95

I don't know that the 2.5L will do much better on fuel than the 4.0L. Minimal at best. It's a good engine and generally cheap to buy/maintain. I notice in the new liberty the 4cyl is rated about the same as the 3.7L V6 on the EPA mileage. Heavy 4X4 vehicles shaped like bricks just aren't going to get good mpg. Most of the 4cyl Cherokees were sold as fleet vehicles and were stripped down models. Those 59k miles might have been rough miles (lots of idling, short trips, etc.). Might be worth checking into, but hopefully it's extremely cheap.

vin_weasel

I don't believe the 2.5L in the Caravan was the same one as the one offered by Jeep/AMC for the last 20 or so years. The 2.5 is considered a weak but reliable engine. I have also heard that it was a favourite for modification in the MJ series Jeep truck for racing because it took mods very well (especially a supercharger). The mileage isn't that hot as you're still hauling a 3000lb vehicle around.

gawain011

Hello All,

I've been lurking on this board for a couple of weeks. I've recently started looking for a 4x4 to use as a weekend fun car and to take to work on snowy days (other car is a Mustang GT). I recently found a bare-bones 99 Cherokee SE with the 4.0 and auto trans. It only has 53,000 miles on it but it has a problem. The engine has a "dead spot." It pulls strong up to 30 MPH then just cuts out (hesitates) before coming back. What does this sound like to you Jeep experts? The used car dealer says he'll fix it and let me test it again. Does this sound like a very serious problem? If so, what is it? I really liked the truck other than this engine problem. The carfax report tells me that the truck was a leased vehicle and was then purchased at auction by the used car dealer. Thanks in advance for your help!

dancerman

It doesn't sound like a serious problem to me. I suspect that it's fuel related...perhaps dirty fuel injectors or a sticky EGR valve. A couple tanks of gas with a good fuel system cleaner may help in the short term.

boggse

I am not sure the SE 4.0L had the AW-4 transmission. If not, it could be an issue there. See if he can fix it first.

mhall02

Correct me if I'm wrong but the AW-4 was the only automatic tranny linked to the 4.0 six in the late 90s. Solid tranny, easy to maintain, however, that hesitation problem sounds fishy. Our '00 Sport has 75,000 with no problesm so far. Make sure they fix it and tell you what it is before you buy it and let us know what you find out.

Boris2

I'm looking to purchase a used Jeep Cherokee and need some suggestions. My max price limit is around 10-11K and I saw a number of '99-'00 Cherokees with decent milage (about 50-60K mi) in my area in this price range. What I wanted to find out if there are any specific things I need to pay special attention to or some issues with Cherokees build these years.

I don't have any experince with Cherokees or with Jeeps for that matter and don't want to make a mistake.

Thanks!

sebring95

No major issues on these years. They seem to be put together fairly well. One minor issue is the rotors tend to "warp" easily although that's common on many vehicle today. I replaced one set on my '01 at around 20k miles and the second set has been fine now at 68k miles. I'd look for one with maintenance records so you know the oil, transaxle, tranny, and other fluids have been changed. With proper maintenance, 4.0L Cherokees will go 200k-300k miles without major problems.

As far as price goes, I'd shop around. I've got a deal pending on mine for $9,000 if the girl can get financing. I've got a 4x4 sport with quite a few extras/options. Market is flooded with Cherokees right now as the '99-'01 models are coming off-lease.

mhall02

We have a 2000 Cherokee Sport with 78,000 miles, turned the AC on Friday and it wasn't too cool, even on the coldest setting. Figured it had a leak, took it in to the dealer and let them work on it. We have an extended warranty, they recharged it, put the leak detecting dye and charged me $132 to do it. Said until they find a problem, its not covered by the warranty, claimed adding freon is 'maintenance'? Come on, it doesn't just 'wear out', who is he kidding? Anyone have any problem losing freon out of their Cherokees that are less than four years old? Obviously there is a leak somewhere!! All I can say is I hope to see some dye on a warranty covered item soon.

ncphisherman

Does anyone know how to change the spark plugs easily on a 2000 Cherokee with the 4.0 engine? This has been driving me nuts for days and I cant find anything on the net that explains how! I found where they are but there is a "bar" above the spark plugs (I assume its a distributor, but I've never seen that type before). The bar has 4 bolts in it. If I remove these bolts, how easy will it be to change the 6 plugs? How easy to put it all back together. Thanks ncphisherman

sebring95

Yeah, you have to pull the bar as the coils/spark plug boots are attached. They all come off together. A couple of the plugs are still tough to get to, but not too bad.

samsgrandpa

I'm having a problem with the idle air control valve on my '90 Cherokee 4.0L six cyl. engine. The
valve "sticks" in the extended position and the engine will not idle. The problem appears to be mechanical as on one valve I was able to push it and it returned to normal position and ran well for several weeks until it "stuck" again. I've replace three in the last 3 months (from Auto Zone not Jeep) Has anyone dealt with this problem?
Thanks, Samsgrandpa

dancerman

I have a '99 Sport. The A/C was recharged twice in 2 years while still under the basic 3 yr./ 36,000 mile warranty. The second time it needed charged, the dealer added a dye. He found a very tiny leak in the condenser and replaced it. Two years later and no problems. All this work was covered under the basic Jeep warranty.

mhall02

Thanks for some inupt on the AC question, my condenser is covered by the extended warranty (since I am past the 3 yr/36,000 mark), I guess I'll have to wait until the dye and freon leaks out so they know where the leak is. Other than this issue, I have had minimal problems with this Cherokee. We will have had it four years next month and as I mentioned it has 78,000 miles on it, they are great vehicles.

ncphisherman

Does anyone have a problem with a weak rear wiper on the 2000 Cherokee? My rear wiper only works when I get outside the car, on a rainy day, and nudge it across the window.

Do I need a new motor and does anyone know what they cost? My truck only has 32k, why so soon? Is it repairable or easy to replace?

Thanks, ncphisherman

sebring95

I didn't have any trouble with my '01 in 70k miles, but rear wipers aren't all that reliable it seems. My daughters broke on her Celica GTS already at 15k miles.

As for the Cherokee, it sound like you might have a stipped thread on either the shaft or the arm. I can't imagine it's very expensive, even if you have to replace the entire motor.

I've had the rear hatch apart on mine (to beat out a dent, long story) but there isn't much to the wiper. The inside trim comes off in one piece just by removing about ten star-bit screws. The Wiper arm is held on by a big nut. I had the whole door, wiper motor, and wiper arm apart and back together in about a half-hour which included beating out the dent!! If just the arm assembly is stripped, I think you can replace it without taking the inside apart. Lossen the outside nut and screw and pop the arm off. You should be able to see if something is stripped. If nothing is stripped there it's probably inside the motor.

ncphisherman

thanks you've been very helpful

ncphisherman

kcarter3

I installed a new radiator from ratiator.com its a great company, they called to find a suitable garage to install the unit and garanteed the price. they shipped it to the garage and it was installed as agreed. so far No proble with overheating....
the radiator had two compartments and a tranny cooler.

sayreman

I own a 98 cherokee sport. The backup lights don't work properly. Sometimes they kick on and some times they don't. Also, sometimes they will kick on if you just let the vehicle sit in reverse a few seconds. Does anyone out there know what might be the problem? If so, what is the approximate cost to fix this problem? Thanks

jwcr

have 225/70/16 factory Goodyears- but would like to replace with 245/70/16. Have UpCountry suspension. Will the 245's work? thanks, Jack

mhall02

Final note on my AC system. It turns out the evaporator coil had a leak and yes this is covered by my extended warranty. This is a $300 plus unit and about 4 hours of labor so you had best hope this thing goes out under warranty. I have heard DC has had problems with these in other vehicles but I hoped the Cherokee would be different. I hope this is the last problem I have with it, otherwise if it goes out after the warranty is up I'm looking at about a $600 job.

gbrmg4

I have a 99 Sport, 4.0 I6 with Select-trac and a towing package. 75,000 miles so far with very few issues. I did have a window regulator fail and the pump for the rear window washer quit but both were fixed under warranty. Thankfully since the warranty expired at 36,000 miles I have had no real problems. The front pads were changed at 55,000 and no rotor problems. I live in Wisconsin and use the 4wd in winter and then tow a small boat in the summer. I have the trip computer and average about 20mpg overall. In short I've been happy with my purchase. In the past few weeks I have had an idle surge that comes and goes. The RPM will run up to about 1500 for a second or two then drop back to about 750. It's more than the fan kicking on, this is a surge. This can happen in park or when slowed in traffic and when the Jeep is warm or cold. Anyone have any ideas or know about a related TSB? Thanks in advance..