I described the quadra-trac II system above. Selec-trac in the Cherokees is like vinweasel desribed except I disagree on it transferring 100% to the front. The way I understand it, the Selec-trac simply drives 52% rear power, 48% front on a constant basis. The Quadra-trac systems will transfer power IIRC.
concievably if you had one tire on a patch of ice you wouldn't be going anywhere because the centre diff is open (and assuming the front/rear are too). I don't know if that would ever happen and if it did the solution is simple: switch to part-time until you get free.
Thanks for the quick help. I was thinking of trying the aftermarket "Bulldog Auto Starter". It comes with it's own key fob that also locks the doors etc. Anyone ever try this out?
On the lighter side I just added a nice kenwood stereo and replaced the old speakers four good ones, woo hoo. Also added a nice front brushbar and some of those PIAA lights with a dual relay switch to go with either fog or just extra light ( it's actually alot of extra light ). I've read the posts on using a better set of tires but i'm not quite used up my stock Goodyears with only 20K. Looks like the group really likes the Michelans.
I have a friend who's family loves Cherokees. He has a '93 Sport with about 220k on it, and his sis has a '98 Sport, and I think she bought it with the auto starter installed. It works great, and she loves it, don't think she's had any problems with it. Anyone else have any comments?
Hi all, I'm considering an '01 Cherokee Sport. Has 23K miles, which is good...which makes me suspicious, naturally! Anyway, I've never bought a used vehicle from a dealership and I'm wondering how it works if I want to have it inspected by my mechanic before I buy. Do I have that option in this case, or do I get the 30-day warranty and deal with a lemon after the fact? No one I know has the answer! Help! Thanks for your advice.
Any reputable dealer will let your own mechanic check a car out. Carfax (linked on the left) will tell you if it's a lemon return. And check out the Buying Used tips on our Advice pages.
Thanks, Steve. I assume the best policy is to go to the dealership and borrow it and see the mechanic all on the same day? Sorry for the stupidity--am new to this. Your Buying Used tips was already in my files--was very helpful.
Yeah, make two appointments - one to "borrow" the used car, and the other with your mechanic. It shouldn't take your mechanic all that long to inspect it, and you'll get to enjoy another test drive in it.
I'm guessing you already found our True Market Value appraisal tools too?
I've been all over your site and its informative editorial like flea on dog! It's an invaluable tool, but of course you know that..... Thanks again for your quick response and help.
I have read here before that the Transfer Case & Automatic Transmission on the Cherokee work better with non-synthetic fluids. I have to questions about this:
1. Anyone know why this is?
2. Does this apply to differentials as well?
I was considering using Red Line gear oil in my differentials, and I was wondering if there was any reason not to. TIA.
Thanks. I couldn't find any specifics, but that is OK with me anyway since I wanted to get the AT flushed, and the Jeep dealer won't use non-mopar products since they can't warranty them. I was also looking at replacing my front rotors with slotted ones to improve braking performance and pedal feel. I have found that Brembo makes a set and so does Performance Products. Any opinions on these, and are there any others I should be considering?
Most mopar trannys require a special mopar fluid, and the synthetics don't meet the requirements. However, being that the newer ('92+ guessing) Cherokeess have the AW4 tranny which is japanese built I have to wonder. I've always just let the dealer change the fluids. The AW4 is an extremely stout tranny and even on normal mopar fluid I've seen these with well into the 200k miles ranges. I'm not worried about the tranny.
The rear differential on mine came equipped with synthetic fluid as a part of the tow package so synthetic is apparently considered superior to standard fluid for high-load situations.
My opinion on slotted/drilled rotors is they're not an advantage unless you're racing the thing or possibly towing loads without proper trailer brakes. During normal and occassional high-speed braking conventional rotors aren't going to heat-up enough to cause problems. In some instances, the superior cooling of the slotted/drilled rotors is a disadvantage because you need a certain level of friction/heat for them to work at their maximum level. If they don't heat up quick enough, the stopping distances are actually longer. I would spend my money on a high-quality conventional rotor if you're just doing normal driving. That was my plan but the free set of rotors the dealer gave me around 20k miles is working fine at 65k miles.
I purchased a 2000 Jeep Cherokee recently. The vehicle is under a limited warranty, so I was really checking out the 4WD operation to make sure there are no problems. I was driving slowly (10-15 mph) in a parking lot, and noticed that when in 4H, the front wheels didn't seem to differentiate well in a tight (nearly full-lock)turn. It almost felt like it was fighting the turn and grabbing. It's been a number of years since I've driven a 4WD vehicle, but I know that the feel is different. I was just wondering if this is normal.
It's normal. The vehicle is trying to turn all of the wheels at the same rate front to rear but the front tires are travelling a different distance than the rears. For this reason you should avoid driving on dry surfaces in 4-Hi. check the owner's manual for more info.
I just got off the phone with the tech working on my 98 Cherokee. I had asked for a transmission flush. He told me it was unnecessary with the AW4 transmission. Can anyone confirm this?
He also said to avoid slotted rotors on the Cherokee because, with the rotor design Jeep uses, they will tend to warp a little sooner than other designs under normal use. Slotted rotors can't be turned, so you would have to replace the rotor every time it warped. The down side to this is the Mopar rotors are $78 each. That is the same price I was going to pay for the slotted rotors from Performance Products.
Hi all. I am thinking about replacing the factory speakers with after market units hoping to improve the overall sound of the system. I have a 2001 Cherokee Sport with the factory AM/FM/cassette/CD. There is a small equalizer incorporated in the unit as well. The sound is marginal - at best. I was interested in knowing if anyone has replaced the four factory speakers [in the doors and roof] with good after market ones, and if that improved the units performance. Would it be a waste to upgrade the speakers and not the in-dash receiver? I think I can install the speakers myself, but if I need to replace the receiver that's beyond my limited skills. By the way, I can get four good Alpine speakers to replace the factory ones for about $190. Supposedly, the new speakers are the same size as the factory ones and install without a hassle. Any suggestions? Thanks
The speakers will help, but the factory receiver is a pretty low-watt unit. Not only will only sound marginally better than stock, it can damage the quality speakers over time by sending crappy distored frequencies.
If you can take door panels apart and replace speakers, you most certainly can replace the factory receiver.
Pioneer makes an exact fit for the Jeep (DEH-XXXX, xxxx being model numbers i don't remember, check cruthfield.com). I put one of these in and it's very easy. They make a wiring harness adapter and all you do is match the colors on the pioneer harness to the adapter harness. Once the harnesses are wired up, go out to the Jeep. The dash panel pulls off, two bolts hold the factory stereo in. Once removed, plug your wiring harness into the factory stereo harness, slide the new unit in, bolt it in, and throw the dash panel back on. Speakers are more diffucult IMHO because the door panels are a pain to remove.
I replaced my entire system right after buying it. Probably took two hours (speakers and receiver) and I was taking my time. I recently pulled the same type of Pioneer receiver out of my truck because I was trading it in. Took about five minutes to slap the factory receiver back in. I left the speakers, no sense recycling them:) I was going to sell that unit I took out of my truck because my new truck came with the infinity system that sounds pretty decent. Let me know if your interested. I was just going to throw it on ebay but I can probably make you a good deal. You might have to buy a new harness because I'm not sure if the '01 Dodge Ram 2500 harness is the same as the '01 Jeep. Something to look into. If it'll fit I'll throw the harness in too and you'll literally be "plug-and-play"!
I kind of figured that the speaker only approach was not the answer. I also appreciate your offer of your old unit - I may take you up on it. One question - I am interested in a unit with AM/FM/Cassette/CD. Is your receiver so equipped? Thanks again!
No mine is just a CD. I think Audiovox and Jensen makes a CD/Cassette that's "chrysler" sized though. I've always bought Pioneer aftermarkets so I've got no experience on the others. I imagine they would be just as easy to hook-up though. Wiring harnesses are fairly universal. Just make sure you get one that has good power. 15 watts per channel output is usually a minimum for decent aftermarket speakers. I usually like around 20-25 watts per channel for normal replacement sized speakers. I think the factory radio is more like 8 watts.
My '01 came with the AmFm Stereo/Cassette & single Slot CD player, and 6 speaker sound system. Under the rear seat is mounted I think an AudioVox Power Amp. The system is killer wicked. This is a dynamite combo.
Sandyboy: your '01 must be equipped with an "Infinity System" - an upgraded version of what I have. According to Crutchfields website, the '01 Cherokee has two options: Infinity System or not. Mine is a plain CD/Cassette/AM-FM unit that sounds pretty lame. Sebring95: I did talk to Crutchfield and they told me the stock unit delivers 3-5 watts per channel. The receivers listed on Crutchfields site all have 20+ watts and above - I think that will suffice. One thing I have noticed: A friend told me that my setup is called a "double din". I have no idea what this means. What I do know is that Crutchfields has only "din and 1/2" which equates to 3" or so. The stock unit is much larger than 3", so I fail to see how I can just swap one for the other. As you can see, my knowledge is pretty limited on the subject.
Chrysler & GM use a proprietary sized dash opening. Not only is it larger in height and width, but it is smaller in depth. Some call it DIN+ or DIN+1/2, but those descriptions are just not accurate. DIN is the normal size used by most Aftermarket head units. Double DIN is used by some Japanese automakers such as Toyota. It is, as it sounds, twice the height of regular DIN. Mazda uses a Double DIN+ on some of its vehicles which is even larger that Double DIN. The bottom line is, if you want it to look natural, you will need to buy one of the head units that are designed to go in the Chrysler opening.
The GM & Chrysler factory units are considered a din 1/2. A single din is around 2" I believe. They're talking about the height of the unit, which 3" sounds about right to me. A double din is common in Toyotas (I've dealt with those also) and they're even bigger than the Chrysler/GM factory units. I've done a lot of stereo swaps in my time and on a GM/Chrysler I think these DIN 1/2 aftermarkets are the only way to go. The normal single DIN's will fit with an adapter kit, but you have a big gap around them which doesn't look nearly as nice.
If you put in the specs for you vehicle on crutchfieds website, you'll get a page where you can click on "In-Dash Receivers", then pick "cd,mp3,dvd receivers", then pick 3rd option down "GM/Chrysler-sized receivers". They show four models, two of which are cd/cassette combos. The audiovox only has 10watts per channel. Jensen CMK7015K is the only choice I would consider. The one I have is similar to the Pioneer DEH-P47DH. There may be some others out there that crutchfield doesn't carry, but they're a good source of info regardless.
I am lost in the woods about this Din stuff. My only question is this: Would the system I have in mine, fit in yours and work as designed? I say this because everyone who hears it comments how great a stereo it has, and "I didn't think Jeeps were known for such great stereos" are comments I hear. Yes, It's Infinity Sound Stereo, (I looked). But I can tell that the front door panels are unique to house small speakers up high near the beltline, like where a "vent" window would have been. There are also two BIG speakers from the headliner in the cargo area. It has a fade stick and a 3-band Graphic Equalizer too.
The infinity system is a 100-watt system and it could have the amplifier hidden somewhere outside the receiver. If you removed every component, it would work the same in any Jeep. Not sure if there is wiring pre-installed in the non-infinity Jeeps, but it's likely considering how they wire these things. I know there's wiring for the overhead console, regardless as to whether you have it or not.
The receiver parts are no different (size wise) on the infinity or non-infinity. It's just a matter of options, speakers, amplifier, etc. I normally don't buy the infinity system. For the '01 Cherokee it was only available on the limited anyway. My '01 Ram I bought the plain stereo and upgraded everything myself as well. For my '03 Ram it was included with the SLT Laramie package. I added steering wheel controls and aftermarket DVD and it sounds very nice.
I have found the Infinity systems in Chrysler products I have owned to be exceptionally good. However, the BOSE in the GM cars as well as the JBL systems in the Ford cars to be lackluster. For some reason, the BOSE in the Cadillacs is about = to the Infinity in the Mopars, but the BOSE in the Buicks, Olds, Pontiacs seems like a totally different product. The JBL in the Fords is not up to the quality of the others. Not to say nor indicate that it is "lousey" ( it isn't ) but it is way behind the other two.
Thanks for all the replies. I did go to the critchfield site and saw the four units listed. If I read you correctly, this means I can just swap one of these for the factory unit and there will be no gap or additional piece that I would need. Does the plastic molding around the stereo pop off? Once it's off, is it easy access to remove the unit? Thanks again everyone. Hi boggse - how did the trip go over the holidays in the snow?
Yep, any of those four stereos will slide right in and mount with the factory screws. My pioneer sticks out a little further than the factory unit, but there is no gap or plate around it. The plastic piece surrounding the radio, hvac controls, rear wiper, etc is one piece. Just give it a little tug and it'll pop right off.
Didn't see much snow over the holidays. During January & February we had some, but other than going to work, I avoided the streets. Cherokee did great in the snow.
Just bought a used 2000 Cherokee, 35K miles, ocassionally makes a rumbling noise from the rear/underbody/drive shaft area only when I'm at a stop with the engine running and my foot on the brake. Let up on the brake, the rumbling stops. Any body know what that might be? Thank you.
My '01 has a rumble sound too. Sometimes. I think it's an exhaust hanger bracket or something. When it hits that perfect idle situation, it resonates. I haven't had time to climb around and figure it out, but I'd look around the rear exhaust hanger brackets. Or have the dealer if it's under warranty. Mines been out of warranty long before this noise showed up.
If it sounds like someone shaking a plastic cup with a marble in it, that's the transaxle shift lever. Give the lever a tug and if it stops, you've got it figured out.
thanks sebring 95. Is it also possible the rumbling noise is due to warped rotors or pads, or something related to brakes? the noise does only occur when I am idling at a stop with my foot on the brake.
I believe there is a TSB for a rattling Transfer case lever. I've encountered this on my '01 and it goes away if I hold the lever to the side a little. It happens so infrequently that I've never had it looked at. This winter I has getting contact from my exhaust on some part of the unibody when it was -30c. I'm sure it was just a hanger.
Hello all I'm new to board. Nice to meet you all Just putting in my 2 cents on the Jeep stereo. This weekend I put in A Pioneer deh-p4500mp into a 2000 Jeep.This unit does use the gap plate,but I have to say it doesnt look bad. Sounds great also. I bought it Crutchfield.I think the model I bought gives ya lots more bang for the buck. cd /cdrw plus mp's. Fwip if you would like to see how it looks installed I can try and post a pic. if you like.
If you refresh the page before going on to another page in Town Hall, your post will get "re-posted." I thought this bug had been swatted, but I guess not.
Thanks for the info - I went to Crutchfield's page and saw your unit. I think it looks fine. The only problem with your selection is that I need a cassette player in addition to the CD. I still have a ton of music on cassette that I am gradually replacing, but until then I need a cassette player. According to Crutchfield, there are only two units that's labeled "din and a half" for the Jeep space in the dash. One is by Audiovox [this would not be my first choice as it's a bit down on power - 10 watts RMS] and a Jensen [21 watte RMS] that looks promising. It seems my options are pretty limited if I stick to a din and a half cassette/CD unit. One option would be to go to a regular din as you did - that may provide a few more choices. I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks
I have one in mine. It made an initial difference and I've seen no evidence that it is working incorrectly or letting dust in. However, K&N doesn't make one directly for the Cherokee but the Dakota(I think) has a same sized air box. I bought that one and it fit perfectly.
There is a FIPK kit that will make a big difference but it was about $400 cdn last I checked. A Cheaper solution can be found at http://www.rustysoffroad.com/ under Performance.
vinweasel , Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to give the FIPK A try. I Will let you know how it works out. fvp, I would at least look at some regular sized units ( din) I still think you'll get more bang for the buck. As far as a cassette, you can down load all your Fav. tunes from the web.Then slap those on a cd/rw. Then make sure your new raido is MP compatible. You should be able to fit around 100 files (or more)(mp-3) on a cd/rw.. Now you wont even need a cd changer with that kind of storage.. Good luck with what ever you decide on..
I am looking into regular sized units as well as the din and a halfs. Your suggestion on downloading music via the internet is a good one. I have a couple CD's that a friend of mine made that way and you can't tell the difference. I'll let you know how it goes - thanks again.
I am considering a Jeep Cherokee and would like some advice on the 98 Jeep Cherokee...should I be concerned about 75k miles...the sell price is a little under 7k...help!! I have no experience with Jeep...
That price seems OK to me, perhaps a little high depending on what options are included and the condition of the vehicle. Be sure to check out Edmunds True Market Value calculator.
If all you are concerned about is mechanical reliability, 75k miles is not a problem. If you want all the gadgets to keep working, you will probably have to invest some money from time to time. I recently got rid of my 98 Classic because I wanted a sports car (miata), and I was averaging about $200 per month on unscheduled repairs to keep the heavily optioned vehicle 100% operational. I probably could have let most of the problems slide without effecting how the vehicle ran, but I liked my power windows, fog lights, infinity stereo, air conditioning, etc. to work as well. Good Luck.
75k isn't anything to worry about with the motor. The 4.0 is a strong motor that will last well into the 200's with regular maintenance. The auto tranny is also a good unit that will go the distance.
The Chrysler electrics and accessories are less reliable, so the more options on the vehicle, the more likely the nice things (pwr windows, seats, etc) will go bad on you.
If your Cherokee was stolen (mine was not - just asking) and the fairy-princess handed you $30,000 to replace it, and you HAD to buy a new vehicle and it could NOT be a used Cherokee, what would you buy? I have a garage limitation in that the height at the opening is a mere 68 inches, so the only similiar vehicle I could buy (and I also like it) would be a Subaru Forester Limited, at 64 inches in height, same as our Cherokees. But, THAT is my problem not yours. What would YOU buy to replace the dear Cherokee? Oh, here: http://www.edmunds.com/pictures/VEHICLE/2003/Subaru/100076812/009- 900-E.jpg
Well, I bought a 2003 Mazda Miata to replace my Cherokee, but I doubt that is the sort of answer you were looking for.
I think a good option is the Mazda Tribute. Since Mazda re-engineered Ford's crappy transmission, I understand that these are quite nice. I drove one when I was looking at Miatas, and its ride was similar to the Cherokee while being a little more controlled. Handling was typical of a minivan.
Another option is the Saturn Vue. I know several people who have purchased one, they all love theirs. As a bonus, it will fit in your garage. The downside is some consider it a "chick car."
Both of these are pretty lightweight compared to the Cherokee for off-road duty, but they are built in the US of mostly US/Canadian content, so that is a plus for you compared to the Forester. I really like the Forester as well. I drove one while shopping for my wife (we got her a Mazda Protege5).
I bought a VW Jetta TDI last year not so much to replace my Cherokee but to supplement when I didn't need hauling or 4X4 capabilities. I'm planning to sell the Cherokee soon. I'm looking for a 4cyl Tacoma 4X4, something that'll get better mpg and be cheaper overall to keep sitting around.
But to answer your question directly, I'd buy a Double cab Tacoma 4X4 TRD with a Supercharged V6 and throw a topper on the back to use for hauling cargo. IMHO the Tacoma is the next best off-roader that's not a Jeep. I had a '95 Tacoma before my Cherokee and it went pretty darned good. Averaged 24mpg too which is much better than the 17-18mpg the Cherokee gets. It's rather thirsty for all the bigger it is. We have a V8 Tahoe that gets 20mpg on the highway and generally averages around 17-18mpg. 50mpg Jetta sorta makes them both seem like pigs but that's another story.
Comments
It comes with it's own key fob that also locks the doors etc. Anyone ever try this out?
On the lighter side I just added a nice kenwood stereo and replaced the old speakers four good
ones, woo hoo. Also added a nice front brushbar
and some of those PIAA lights with a dual relay switch to go with either fog or just extra light
( it's actually alot of extra light ). I've read the posts on using a better set of tires but i'm not quite used up my stock Goodyears with only 20K. Looks like the group really likes the Michelans.
I'm considering an '01 Cherokee Sport. Has 23K miles, which is good...which makes me suspicious, naturally! Anyway, I've never bought a used vehicle from a dealership and I'm wondering how it works if I want to have it inspected by my mechanic before I buy. Do I have that option in this case, or do I get the 30-day warranty and deal with a lemon after the fact? No one I know has the answer! Help! Thanks for your advice.
Steve, Host
Your Buying Used tips was already in my files--was very helpful.
I'm guessing you already found our True Market Value appraisal tools too?
Good luck!
Steve, Host
Thanks again for your quick response and help.
1. Anyone know why this is?
2. Does this apply to differentials as well?
I was considering using Red Line gear oil in my differentials, and I was wondering if there was any reason not to. TIA.
The rear differential on mine came equipped with synthetic fluid as a part of the tow package so synthetic is apparently considered superior to standard fluid for high-load situations.
My opinion on slotted/drilled rotors is they're not an advantage unless you're racing the thing or possibly towing loads without proper trailer brakes. During normal and occassional high-speed braking conventional rotors aren't going to heat-up enough to cause problems. In some instances, the superior cooling of the slotted/drilled rotors is a disadvantage because you need a certain level of friction/heat for them to work at their maximum level. If they don't heat up quick enough, the stopping distances are actually longer. I would spend my money on a high-quality conventional rotor if you're just doing normal driving. That was my plan but the free set of rotors the dealer gave me around 20k miles is working fine at 65k miles.
He also said to avoid slotted rotors on the Cherokee because, with the rotor design Jeep uses, they will tend to warp a little sooner than other designs under normal use. Slotted rotors can't be turned, so you would have to replace the rotor every time it warped. The down side to this is the Mopar rotors are $78 each. That is the same price I was going to pay for the slotted rotors from Performance Products.
I was interested in knowing if anyone has replaced the four factory speakers [in the doors and roof] with good after market ones, and if that improved the units performance. Would it be a waste to upgrade the speakers and not the in-dash receiver? I think I can install the speakers myself, but if I need to replace the receiver that's beyond my limited skills. By the way, I can get four good Alpine speakers to replace the factory ones for about $190. Supposedly, the new speakers are the same size as the factory ones and install without a hassle.
Any suggestions? Thanks
If you can take door panels apart and replace speakers, you most certainly can replace the factory receiver.
Pioneer makes an exact fit for the Jeep (DEH-XXXX, xxxx being model numbers i don't remember, check cruthfield.com). I put one of these in and it's very easy. They make a wiring harness adapter and all you do is match the colors on the pioneer harness to the adapter harness. Once the harnesses are wired up, go out to the Jeep. The dash panel pulls off, two bolts hold the factory stereo in. Once removed, plug your wiring harness into the factory stereo harness, slide the new unit in, bolt it in, and throw the dash panel back on. Speakers are more diffucult IMHO because the door panels are a pain to remove.
I replaced my entire system right after buying it. Probably took two hours (speakers and receiver) and I was taking my time. I recently pulled the same type of Pioneer receiver out of my truck because I was trading it in. Took about five minutes to slap the factory receiver back in. I left the speakers, no sense recycling them:) I was going to sell that unit I took out of my truck because my new truck came with the infinity system that sounds pretty decent. Let me know if your interested. I was just going to throw it on ebay but I can probably make you a good deal. You might have to buy a new harness because I'm not sure if the '01 Dodge Ram 2500 harness is the same as the '01 Jeep. Something to look into. If it'll fit I'll throw the harness in too and you'll literally be "plug-and-play"!
Thanks again!
Sebring95: I did talk to Crutchfield and they told me the stock unit delivers 3-5 watts per channel. The receivers listed on Crutchfields site all have 20+ watts and above - I think that will suffice.
One thing I have noticed: A friend told me that my setup is called a "double din". I have no idea what this means. What I do know is that Crutchfields has only "din and 1/2" which equates to 3" or so. The stock unit is much larger than 3", so I fail to see how I can just swap one for the other.
As you can see, my knowledge is pretty limited on the subject.
If you put in the specs for you vehicle on crutchfieds website, you'll get a page where you can click on "In-Dash Receivers", then pick "cd,mp3,dvd receivers", then pick 3rd option down "GM/Chrysler-sized receivers". They show four models, two of which are cd/cassette combos. The audiovox only has 10watts per channel. Jensen CMK7015K is the only choice I would consider. The one I have is similar to the Pioneer DEH-P47DH. There may be some others out there that crutchfield doesn't carry, but they're a good source of info regardless.
The receiver parts are no different (size wise) on the infinity or non-infinity. It's just a matter of options, speakers, amplifier, etc. I normally don't buy the infinity system. For the '01 Cherokee it was only available on the limited anyway. My '01 Ram I bought the plain stereo and upgraded everything myself as well. For my '03 Ram it was included with the SLT Laramie package. I added steering wheel controls and aftermarket DVD and it sounds very nice.
If I read you correctly, this means I can just swap one of these for the factory unit and there will be no gap or additional piece that I would need.
Does the plastic molding around the stereo pop off? Once it's off, is it easy access to remove the unit?
Thanks again everyone. Hi boggse - how did the trip go over the holidays in the snow?
I am looking forward to the upgrade and appreciate the help.
If it sounds like someone shaking a plastic cup with a marble in it, that's the transaxle shift lever. Give the lever a tug and if it stops, you've got it figured out.
I bought it Crutchfield.I think the model I bought gives ya lots more bang for the buck. cd /cdrw plus mp's. Fwip if you would like to see how it looks installed I can try and post a pic. if you like.
Just wondering if anyone tried a K&N air filter on there Jeep? If so how did it work out?
If you refresh the page before going on to another page in Town Hall, your post will get "re-posted." I thought this bug had been swatted, but I guess not.
While waiting for responses in here, you may want to browse the K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power? discussion.
Steve, Host
According to Crutchfield, there are only two units that's labeled "din and a half" for the Jeep space in the dash. One is by Audiovox [this would not be my first choice as it's a bit down on power - 10 watts RMS] and a Jensen [21 watte RMS] that looks promising.
It seems my options are pretty limited if I stick to a din and a half cassette/CD unit. One option would be to go to a regular din as you did - that may provide a few more choices.
I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any. Thanks
There is a FIPK kit that will make a big difference but it was about $400 cdn last I checked. A Cheaper solution can be found at http://www.rustysoffroad.com/ under Performance.
Thanks for the info. I think I'm going to give the FIPK A try. I Will let you know how it works out.
fvp,
I would at least look at some regular sized units ( din) I still think you'll get more bang for the buck. As far as a cassette, you can down load all your Fav. tunes from the web.Then slap those on a cd/rw.
Then make sure your new raido is MP compatible.
You should be able to fit around 100 files (or more)(mp-3) on a cd/rw.. Now you wont even need a cd changer with that kind of storage..
Good luck with what ever you decide on..
Your suggestion on downloading music via the internet is a good one. I have a couple CD's that a friend of mine made that way and you can't tell the difference.
I'll let you know how it goes - thanks again.
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1998/jeep/cherokee/10501/options.html- ?tid=edmunds.u.prices.utmv.vdpprice.13.Jeep*
If all you are concerned about is mechanical reliability, 75k miles is not a problem. If you want all the gadgets to keep working, you will probably have to invest some money from time to time. I recently got rid of my 98 Classic because I wanted a sports car (miata), and I was averaging about $200 per month on unscheduled repairs to keep the heavily optioned vehicle 100% operational. I probably could have let most of the problems slide without effecting how the vehicle ran, but I liked my power windows, fog lights, infinity stereo, air conditioning, etc. to work as well. Good Luck.
The Chrysler electrics and accessories are less reliable, so the more options on the vehicle, the more likely the nice things (pwr windows, seats, etc) will go bad on you.
Oh, here:
http://www.edmunds.com/pictures/VEHICLE/2003/Subaru/100076812/009- 900-E.jpg
I think a good option is the Mazda Tribute. Since Mazda re-engineered Ford's crappy transmission, I understand that these are quite nice. I drove one when I was looking at Miatas, and its ride was similar to the Cherokee while being a little more controlled. Handling was typical of a minivan.
Another option is the Saturn Vue. I know several people who have purchased one, they all love theirs. As a bonus, it will fit in your garage. The downside is some consider it a "chick car."
Both of these are pretty lightweight compared to the Cherokee for off-road duty, but they are built in the US of mostly US/Canadian content, so that is a plus for you compared to the Forester. I really like the Forester as well. I drove one while shopping for my wife (we got her a Mazda Protege5).
I know you are "just asking," but why do you ask?
But to answer your question directly, I'd buy a Double cab Tacoma 4X4 TRD with a Supercharged V6 and throw a topper on the back to use for hauling cargo. IMHO the Tacoma is the next best off-roader that's not a Jeep. I had a '95 Tacoma before my Cherokee and it went pretty darned good. Averaged 24mpg too which is much better than the 17-18mpg the Cherokee gets. It's rather thirsty for all the bigger it is. We have a V8 Tahoe that gets 20mpg on the highway and generally averages around 17-18mpg. 50mpg Jetta sorta makes them both seem like pigs but that's another story.