Haynes manual says this code is for a 2.5 L engine cooling fan relay which makes no sense for you. It does not give anything for the 4.0 L. Maybe someone with a factory manual has more and better info for you. You may want to thoroughly examine all the hoses under the hood and to the gas tank checking for anything that cracked, loose or pinched and have your gas cap checked.
I have a 99' Cherokee Sport, 4.0L Inline 6. I'm shopping for some performance upgrades, at this point completely stock...I want an exhaust system that delivers power, but also I want it LOUD, any ideas!?! And also I saw an add for a turbonator or something? Anyone know if that's legit? Please help!!!
I was wondering if I could get some help. I have 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport w/ 4.0L 6 cyl. engine. Lately it has been overheating, replaced thermostat and radiator cap per the Jeep dealer. Worked for awhile I had to tow my boat and once I got on the highway it overheated and stalled. Took twenty minutes to start then did it again 10 miles later. Took it back to the shop and they found nothing wrong & had no explanation. Now yesterday, under no load, it just stalled again. I have noticed that the electric fan never seems to turn. Could this be my problem or is there combination? Thanks for any help.
You'll need both high-flow exhaust and intake to get any increase in performance and even then it will be much less than earthshaking. I did this and noticed a tiny bit more zip at take off and smoother acceleration at WOT. Not worth the money.
I followed the radio input to the passenger kick panel, and nothing again.
I removed the passenger kick panel and found that Jeep, in their infinite wisdom, made a cable connector that rests right behind the passenger kick panel. It had come unconnected. I plugged it together and radio works great. For added security I secured the connector with electrical tape so that it wont come loose a second time.
So the blame for this problem clearly lies with your passenger(s). All that kickin' around over there finally worked the connector loose!! :P
Have a 95 jeep cherokee both alternator and battery check fine on and off vehicle but system shows not charging and only pulling about 9.3 volts any suggestions on what to look at next
I recently had to replace the cylinder head on my 2001 Cherokee and in doing some research have found that there is a problem with the casting (I think the casting # is 0331, but I could be wrong.)between cylinders 3 & 4 that leads to cracks in this location that allow coolant and oil to mix, resulting in overheating, low oil pressure, and the associated problems with contaminating these two systems. This is my 3rd Jeep Cherokee (others were an '89 and a '96.) I had high hopes for the improved performance of the 2001, but this defect is not what I have come to expect from Jeep branded vehicles, and causes me to become nostalgic for my '96. Has anyone heard if DC has determined what the cause of this defect is, and if there is anything I can do, as an owner, to prevent this from happening again in the future? I e-mailed DC customer support and they replied that there was no recall, have a nice day. Not the answer I was seaching for!
I have a 1996 Cherokee 4X4 with a 4.0 engine. I'm getting tow codes, P0171 - fuel sys lean & P0172 - fuel sys rich. The engine starts running very rough just as the light comes on. I'm looking at the MAP sensor or perhaps the IAC motor. Any ideas? Am I looking in the right directions? Thanks for any help.
Thanks, buddy. I went ahead and removed the kickpanel and sure enough, it was the connector right behind it.
Course, now I saw the cabin filter is a mess and gotta replace that...since it's 11 oclock though I figure ill figure it out tomorrow.
As far as the ac goes...when it blows cool only after about five to ten minutes, does it typically need a 'charge' of freon, as everyone always says? How much does that run?
The backup lights on my '93 Jeep Cherokee are not working. The bulbs are fine and what I can see of the wiring is OK. Can anyone tell me where I can find the backup lamp switch or provide any other suggestions as to what the problem may be? Thanks
I just bought a 1988 Jeep Cherokee, straight 6, 4.0 litre, 200,000 miles. I noticed that sometimes when I accelerate or go over a bump or up a hill something feels like it is bouncing, or slipping and middle of the jeep in the back of the jeep, it also sounds like a bowling ball is loose in the car when it happens. Its really hard to explain but I am new to jeep world and am really scared this is the trans. PLEASE HELP :sick:
the computer has to be reconfigered they did it to my 2000 and it is a recall, also the intake gasket has to be changed because of issues with the same problem
I have a 95 4x4 that did the the same thing. Had put 2 new tires on in the back. Put 2 new tires up front and popping disappeared. Dealer told me that the transfercase is where it binds up and will damage it if not taken care of. :shades:
I was driving on the freeway and my 93 jeep just stops running. I pull to the side let it sit and it starts back up. This has happened many times. Can anyone tell me the problem.
It's something electrical, probably a sensor getting hot and shutting down. I'm sure the check engine light comes on. Have you pulled the codes? If you don't have a code scanner, you can pick one up for your Jeep for $50-$75. There is a way to do it using the ignition switch and the check engine light, but I can't think of it right now.
I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, automatic, and also have a front end pop, exactly as you've described yours. I took it to a Green and Ross mechanic who repaired the problem and charged me about 900 dollars (Canadian). As I drove into my garage, it popped again and tried to take it back twice, only to be told that they were too busy or that the owner was not there. I have 60 days and will take it to an independent garage, authorized by CAA, to have the Jeep inspected. It seems something else was repaired, that did not need replacing, so I will ask for my money back. The repair was for rotors and ball bearings, which the mechanic said were causing the problem because they were worn. :confuse:
Your Cherokee probably works like my '95 Wrangler.
To access the diagnostic codes do the following:
DO NOT START THE ENGINE Turn the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (within 3 seconds) and leave it ON. The "check engine" light will start flashing. Write down the series of flashes. The codes are a series of 2 numbers each, separated by an interval. The final code should be "5-5" (meaning "end of codes"). My YJ just flashed "1-2, 3-3, 5-5". 12 = battery disconnect (I disconnect the battery when I change the oil because the starter motor wires are close to the oil filter) 33 = open circuit in the air conditioner clutch control (I don't have an A/C so that circuit had better be open) 55 = end of codes. If you post your codes I will try to remember to come back and look them up for you, or you can take them to Autozone and they should be able to decipher them for you. (I usually abide at the Wrangler forum.) Good luck.
i have a 99 cherokee sport with the straight 6, any time i turn on my a/c or heat there is a loud screeching noise and it lasts for about 5 to 10 seconds, and i just paid 250 bucks because the mechanic says it was a bad pulley and belt, and as soon as i brought it home it was doing the same thing, can anybody give me an idea on what the problem is. thanks, matt
The belt has to be VERY tight. When I replaced the belt on mine, I thought it was tight enough. Nope, had to tighten more. After three more times, the squeeling finally stopped. I honestly thought that I would break the belt before I could get it tight enough. That was roughly 20k miles ago.
Go ahead and tighten it some more and see what happens.
hello i ordered a new over flow cap, and that stopped the overheating problem.
when i got the car i had some starting issues. i would have to put my car in either in park or neutral. i did that for like a year, and just last not it did non start up at all. i got a price for a new starter for only $92.85, labor only $80.00?? what do you think???
my 99 cherokee, straight six wont start when i let it sit in the cold for about 5 hours. It starts and shuts right off, i have to keep reving it just so it wont die, it is an automatic, and i have to drive it like a manual just to keep it running, but after i floor it for a couple seconds, it will stay running. any ideas matt
Starters are not hard to replace, 30 minutes tops. $93 sounds mighty cheap for a Mopar starter, or even a new name brand one. I'm assuming this is a quality rebuilt one? Sounds about right to me.
Any other symptoms? What are the gauges telling you? Is the engine flooding out or not getting enough gas? Is the engine being choked out at idle?
Could be a sensor telling the computer the engine is at normal operating temp. Could be the Idle Air Control Valve isn't working properly when cold. Could be any number of things.
Anybody have any idea where I could buy centercaps to match the one on this wheel? It's for a 2001 Cherokee Classic, 16" rim. Over the past couple years, they have came off (or been stolen) off 3 of the 4 wheels! Thanks
Is this when you first crank it up and the engine is still cold? What is the temp. gauge reading? If it's reading a normal operating temp. then the sender is bad. It's telling the computer the engine is at full operating temp. when it's not. This is roughly equivalent to running an older engine cold without using the choke.
I would pull the Idle Air Control valve off and clean it as my next step. It's located on the side of the throttle body facing the engine block. You'll need a special tool to get the bolts out. It's a torx bit with a hole in the middle. You'll see what I'm talking about when you look at the bolts.
You say none of the lights are on? Does the check engine light come on when you start it? It should, then go off in a second or two. If it never comes one, then the check engine light is burnt out.
I had mine replaced by the dealer two years ago. I took it back after a week for adjustment. Then had to tighten twice more myself within the next couple months. It's been OK since after 22k miles on the new belt. Maybe there is more stretch in some brands.
I have a 2006 JGC with about 5k miles so far. I have noticed that the driver side door will not stay open when you push it from the sitting position on the inside. It either opens half way and returns or opens full and returns to slam into your leg (or whatever else is in the way).
The dealer at first said it was a flaw and then said it was a new "safety feature". Does anyone have a similar problem? I have had 3 of these JGC in previous model years and never this problem.
my buddy borrowd my jeep, blew out a tire then drove it whith a hole(which mysteriously appeared) in the radiator. i have a knock now and pure water in the radiator.. how should i procede? i think ill flush the system, change the thermostat, patch the hole and pray. any other ideas? :sick:
I just inherited my wife's '00 Jeep Cherokee and now I wish to address the excessive body roll. I hate it. What's the best/cheapest way to fix it? I am thinking stiffer anti-roll bars but is there a quicker/cheaper fix? If bars are the way to go, what's a good online source? Thanks, I'm new to Jeeps and just wish to fix this one problem.
Check the oil as well. It's possible that knock is caused by water in the oil. If that's the case, then he/she probably severly overheated the engine and warped/cracked the head.
BTW: I'd put a new radiator on it rather than patching the hole. But that's just my $0.02 worth.
Is this Jeep lifted? If so, then that's the cause of the body roll. When the center of gravity is raised, then any body roll gets exaggerated. If it's stock height, first off make sure the sway bars(anti-roll bars) are still connected. There's one on each axle. It's entirely possible one has come loose without you knowing it. If the sway bars are all connected and the frame mounts are good and tight, then I'd suggest new shock absorbers. A good set of shocks will help to control body roll. My '01 corners very well considering it's a 4x4.
Do you have anything mounted on the roof rack? Or any other item not from the factory mounted higher than the floor? Also, what is your point of perspective? Meaning, what kind of vehicles are you accustomed to driving?
I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport and the ac fan rarely comes on so in the heat the Jeep will overheat. I can not use the AC or it will cause the car to overheat but if I leave the ac off I have no problems. I have been given every reason why this could happen from many different mechanics. Could this be the thermostat or the blower itself. Someone please help. I know I can fix it if i know what is wrong with it.
What are the reasons you have been given for overheating? If the auxillary fan doesn't come on without the A/C then find out why. If it does overheats with the aux.fan on then I'd suspect the radiator internals are partly plugged or have corrosion that impedes heat transfer. It could be a water pump that doesn't pump enough coolant but I'd bet on plugged radiator.
This was happening to my "94 cherokee ,it would just die in the middle of driving down the road. In this case, it was the Crank Shaft Sensor which needed to be replaced.
why cant i use a hose to syphon the gas out of my 2000 jeep cherokee. seems like i get the hose down in there and it stops like there is a block there or something. is it a anti-fuel theft devic :P e?
It sounds to me like the crank shaft position sensor. It happened to me with a 90 Cherokee Laredo few times when I first got it. It is only $50 and should fix it.
Crank sensor costs about 60.00. It is on the back of the transmission bell housing on the top left side as you are facing the back of the transmission.A 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a very long extension(s) are helpful. Good luck,David
about a year ago my jeep got broken into and the broke the glove compartment box off so I took it to a local jeep body shop for them to replace the glove compartment they told me they couldn't just replace that part they had to replace the whole, so I went ahead an let them do so. Well my insurance agent came to look at my vechile (long story) and he noticed that my VIN number was missing from the front of the windshield, it looks to me that there is a place in the dashboard itself where this should be located. Well I called the place that put it in and they are trying to tell me that when it got broken into they stole the VIN number and they are also saying the front windshield had to be replace sometime or another. So they say they need a copy of the police report showing the VIN number got stolen and About a year ago my jeep got broken into and the broke the glove compartment box off so I took it to a local jeep body shop for them to replace the glove compartment they told me they couldn't just replace that part they had to replace the whole thing dash and all, so I went ahead an let them do so. Well my insurance agent came to look at my vehicle (long story) and he noticed that my VIN number was missing from the front of the windshield, it looks to me that there is a place in the dashboard itself where this should be located. Well I called the place that put it in and they are trying to tell me that when it got broken into they stole the VIN number and they are also saying the front windshield had to be replacing sometime or another and I tell them that I . So they say they need a copy of the police report showing the VIN number got stolen and I keep telling them it did not get stolen. The only think I can think is that when they took the old dashboard out that they forgot to take the VIN number off it and put it onto the new one so my question is. 1. Where is the VIN number located on the vehicle (in the spot that is cut out in the dashboard or not). 2. Please tell me that I am right that no one is going to take time to still a VIN number when the car is parked out in the open in daylight. 3. What should I do? :mad
Comments
I followed the Antenna to the interior, nothing.
I followed the radio input to the passenger kick panel, and nothing again.
I removed the passenger kick panel and found that Jeep, in their infinite wisdom, made a cable connector that rests right behind the passenger kick panel. It had come unconnected. I plugged it together and radio works great. For added security I secured the connector with electrical tape so that it wont come loose a second time.
So the blame for this problem clearly lies with your passenger(s). All that kickin' around over there finally worked the connector loose!! :P
Hope that helps,
MyTools
Thanks, buddy. I went ahead and removed the kickpanel and sure enough, it was the connector right behind it.
Course, now I saw the cabin filter is a mess and gotta replace that...since it's 11 oclock though I figure ill figure it out tomorrow.
As far as the ac goes...when it blows cool only after about five to ten minutes, does it typically need a 'charge' of freon, as everyone always says? How much does that run?
thanks again Mytools
Charley
Can anyone tell me where I can find the backup lamp switch or provide any other suggestions as to what the problem may be?
Thanks
I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee, automatic, and also have a front end pop, exactly as you've described yours. I took it to a Green and Ross mechanic who repaired the problem and charged me about 900 dollars (Canadian). As I drove into my garage, it popped again and tried to take it back twice, only to be told that they were too busy or that the owner was not there. I have 60 days and will take it to an independent garage, authorized by CAA, to have the Jeep inspected. It seems something else was repaired, that did not need replacing, so I will ask for my money back. The repair was for rotors and ball bearings, which the mechanic said were causing the problem because they were worn. :confuse:
To access the diagnostic codes do the following:
DO NOT START THE ENGINE
Turn the ignition key ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON (within 3 seconds) and leave it ON.
The "check engine" light will start flashing. Write down the series of flashes. The codes are a series of 2 numbers each, separated by an interval. The final code should be "5-5" (meaning "end of codes").
My YJ just flashed "1-2, 3-3, 5-5".
12 = battery disconnect (I disconnect the battery when I change the oil because the starter motor wires are close to the oil filter)
33 = open circuit in the air conditioner clutch control (I don't have an A/C so that circuit had better be open)
55 = end of codes.
If you post your codes I will try to remember to come back and look them up for you, or you can take them to Autozone and they should be able to decipher them for you. (I usually abide at the Wrangler forum.)
Good luck.
matt
Go ahead and tighten it some more and see what happens.
when i got the car i had some starting issues. i would have to put my car in either in park or neutral. i did that for like a year, and just last not it did non start up at all. i got a price for a new starter for only $92.85, labor only $80.00?? what do you think???
matt
Could be a sensor telling the computer the engine is at normal operating temp. Could be the Idle Air Control Valve isn't working properly when cold. Could be any number of things.
I would pull the Idle Air Control valve off and clean it as my next step. It's located on the side of the throttle body facing the engine block. You'll need a special tool to get the bolts out. It's a torx bit with a hole in the middle. You'll see what I'm talking about when you look at the bolts.
You say none of the lights are on? Does the check engine light come on when you start it? It should, then go off in a second or two. If it never comes one, then the check engine light is burnt out.
The dealer at first said it was a flaw and then said it was a new "safety feature". Does anyone have a similar problem? I have had 3 of these JGC in previous model years and never this problem.
Anyway, I am looking for a work-around.
BTW: I'd put a new radiator on it rather than patching the hole. But that's just my $0.02 worth.
Do you have anything mounted on the roof rack? Or any other item not from the factory mounted higher than the floor? Also, what is your point of perspective? Meaning, what kind of vehicles are you accustomed to driving?
is it a anti-fuel theft devic :P e?
Good luck,David
1. Where is the VIN number located on the vehicle (in the spot that is cut out in the dashboard or not).
2. Please tell me that I am right that no one is going to take time to still a VIN number when the car is parked out in the open in daylight.
3. What should I do?
:mad