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Jeep Cherokee



  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    If you don't have a check engine light then it might be the idle speed servo-motor. These get gummed up and can cause idle problems. A thorough cleaning of the servo-motor and throttle body can't hurt.
  • gbrmg4gbrmg4 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the idea. I called around this morning and stopped at a dealer. First place I talked to was clueless but I have had bad experiences there before. Stopped out somewhere else and actually got to talk to the mechanic, not a service advisor. He suggested the same thing, also said it might just be a bad tank of gas. The computer will sense a hesitation if there is a little water in the system and boost the rpm to compensate. Suggested I just try a can of Heat and fill it up, see what happens. Also said Jeep recommends the throttle body be cleaned at 60,000 and the plugs, wires and cap be changed at the same mileage. If the clean tank of gas doesn't fix it I'll start working on the other stuff. Still happy with my Jeep.
  • I have a 4.0 in my 4-door Cherokee Sport with 32k miles. All stock, new stock tires. I get 13.5mpg on the highway. Dealer says I need the 'ol $800 30k tuneup. No problems they see that jump out at them. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in 2 tanks ago and it didn't help. Never owned one of these, very loud engine like its choke is open (like the GM motors when you first fire them up, until the choke closes and then they begin to purr). This Jeep is always "loud". Any ideas???
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Is this a problem that just crept up or what? How many times have you checked the mileage to confirm these low numbers? I had a terrible time filling my '01 because sometimes it would fill it right up and other times it would barely hit the "F" on the guage. Makes it hard to judge mpg if you don't fill it to the exact point every time. Many things to look for, but I really doubt an $800 tune-up is the answer. What exactly are they doing for $800??? I believe my 60k mile service was around $400 which included tranny fluid flush, diff fluid change, transaxle fluid change, spark plugs, oil change, and about two hours diagnosing a check-engine/misfire problem. Jeeps are cheap to run/maintain, don't let a bogus dealer take you for a ride.
  • Hi there, $800 sounds kinda excessive to me. I have almost 80,000 miles on my 2000 Cherokee Sport at around 30,000 miles I did the following per the owners manual. Changed the spark plugs, they looked fine but since I removed the ignition bar and already bought the plugs I went ahead and did it (kind of a pain for just a plug change). My current plugs have about 45,000 miles on them and I'll probabally change them at 50,000. Drained the tranny, there is a plug on the bottom of the transmission, drain it and top with approx 2 quarts (however much you remove) of your favorite brand of Dexron/Mercon fluid, be sure to use the fluid the owners manual suggests. Drain and refill the transfer case, holds about a quart of the same ATF, and oil changes ever 3,000 miles. I personally think that changing the axle fluid is a waste of time, unless they become contaminated with water, sand or some other material, or you work yours to death (i.e. snow plow, constant off road use). Mine gets right at what the sticker says, 16 city and 20 on strictly highway trips. As far the the engine being loud, it seems louder with the AC on at idle (which can also affect your mpg), but it isn't a mini-van or sedan. Sounds like a truck to me.
  • Is this the engine position sensor or a fuel injection sensor? I serve in Italy and transfer soon, so need the right part the first time.
    Anybody want to buy a Cherokee in Italy? Thanks for your input.
  • My rear liftgate won't open. I've got power locks and it does disengage, but the release latch doesn't release anything. I can't figure out how to get into the lock mechanism especially with the gate closed. It looks like if I could open it, there are screws which would allow me to remove the inside panel, exposing the lock mechanism. Any insights and/or suggestions? What should it cost to have someone fix it assuming I can't get into it? Thanks.
  • I had a similar problem on my 2000 Classic.

    I was not able to open the liftgate lock with the remote, but I could always use the key to unlock it. I had mine fixed under warranty, and I believe the fix read "repaired spread terminals to rear actuator".

    If I use the remote now, the liftgate lock opens along with all the door locks.
  • I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport, 4.0 I6, with 35k. A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and has not gone out. I called the dealer and they told me it will cost $96 just to diagnose what the problem might be, not to fix it. This seems like too much money if it is something simple like a bad tank of gas or something.

    The truck runs perfectly, its powerful and getting 20 mpg on the highway. Is there some way to turn off the light, like disconnecting the battery? I can't stand staring at the amber light anymore!
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Find yourself an Autozone. They will read/reset the codes for you without charge. Heck, you might be able to buy yourself a scan tool for $96!!

    These lights are usually caused by emissions sensors unless the vehicle was running funny. Oxygen sensors will set the light pretty easy. I had a couple problems with mine, but it was a misfire due to spark problems. Both times it set the light, the motor would really rough for a minute or so. New spark plugs always fixed it.
  • How much life might there be in a used 92 Cherokee? The current milage is approx. 160 k.
    Was 92 a good year for the Cherokee? Thanks.
  • I took your advice and went to the AutoZone. They scanned the code, it was "P0455" which is a gross leak in the evaporative emission canister system. Found out on the net that 90% of these codes are a faulty gas cap.

    I checked my gas cap, which looked fine, but decided to replace it. I guess I'll see if the Check Engine Light comes on again. Thanks for your advice, once again...

  • Seeing how I got such a wealth of good help here (sic) I had to do the math myself and figured out my problem. Over the years this car's vacuum lines occasionally clogged, causing oil to back up from the valve cover into the air filter. I'd clean up the vacuum and valve cover, change the air filter, and drive on. What I didn't clean was the throttle body. Taking a T25 torx for the solenoid and a T30 for the main air intake boot, I opened the throttle body up, and scooped out the tar buildup. It was about 1/4" thick in some places! (OK, that is a bit embarrassing.) After a couple cans of carb and choke cleaner, I'm finding my old Cherokee is spry and peppier than it's been in over a year. Makes a good case for periodic cleaning, huh?
  • I own a 2000 Cherokee Sport with approximately 70,000 miles that suddenly stopped running while driving it. After diagnosis from the Jeep dealer I had it towed to, the mechanic stated that the PCM computer went bad (this apparently is the "brain" of the vehicle), which in turn fouled the injectors, which in turn fouled the plugs. I find it hard to believe this is normal for this to happen so early in the life of the vehicle. Has anyone else had this problem with thier Jeep? I'm trying to gather information so as to approach Chrysler for assistance in replacing this EXPENSIVE part!
  • My turn signals on my 99 will not shut off unless I do it manually and sometimes the hazard lights come on instead. Has anyone had this problem and how did you fix it?
  • My '99 Sport turn signal lever only works properly if you move it fully up or down to activate the signals. The partial up/down movement (for lane changes) sometimes gets stuck and you have to pull it to the center position. A few times it has produced a very loud buzz sound from the steering column. You have to move it fully up or down to stop it. I avoid the partial position. Replacing the switch is a last resort because of the cost. I have not noticed hazard lights but a faulty signal switch could do that I suppose.
  • My 1999 Wrangler 4c/standard makes a clicking noise when I let off the gas. The noise stops when the clutch in pushed. is it the transfer case or what?
  • I'm looking for my first car and I'm kind of leaning towards an SUV. I've looked at a bunch of brands, but I don't want a plastic looking SUV like the liberty. I like the Jeep Cherokee's stlying but I'm not sure about its quality. I would like to save as much money as possible, can anyone help?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Cherokees are screaming deals on the used lots. Very reliable as far as drivetrain is concerned. Some little problems are normal but nothing out of the ordinary for a domestic vehicle. Cheap to work on too.

    Not sure if this is the perfect first vehicle (you didn't state your age or driving experience). I have SUV's/Trucks because I need them and prefer to drive my cars when I don't. Certainly a personal preference and need based decision, but a car will typically be cheaper to own/operate on nearly every level. And drive better to boot.
  • Thank you for the advice, but becasue i live in a place where theres pretty bad winter weather for about half of the year, I was thinking SUV, but I'm still not too sure. When considering other USED SUV's would you say that the Cherokee is the best deal or should i consider other options?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I don't know about best deal. I guess it really depends on what you're looking for. The Cherokee is in a class-of-its-own IMHO. Possibly a 4runner or an Xterra might fit a similar profile. That profile is that they are utility oriented. They have good off-road ability, fairly no-frills, strong motors, etc. If that's what you're looking for than I don't think you can beat the Cherokee, particularly for the money.

    If your sole need for an SUV is foul weather, pretty much any SUV with decent tires will get the job done. When you want something that can tow, seriously off-road, and get through some extreme conditions then you really start limiting your choices.
  • Thanks for youre help yet again Sebring, I would personally like to try offroading, it seems like it would be fun. I will still obviously check out other cars/SUVs and consider everything, my main concern about the Jeep's were really their reliability and if there good then theyre the best used SUV out there for the money in my mind. Is there a price range should be paying for Cherokee's from 99-01? THANKS AGAIN
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Offroading defintely can be a good time. I used to do it for recreation quite a bit (had a CJ-7 and a built-up Toyota Tacoma), but I never really got to go out in the Cherokee just for fun. I did drive it off-road quite a bit for business related (which can be fun as well!) but it was mainly muddy fields and some very rough fire roads.

    Some options you might consider since this is your first SUV would be ABS and the Selec-trac 4x4 system. ABS greatly increases the stability of these vehicles in emergency situations and the Selec-trac gives you the option of running 4x4 on dry roads. I didn't have either option on my Jeep (for various reasons) but I would highly recommend them for a new driver.

    As for prices, I haven't looked real close but I sold my '01 with 70k miles about two months ago for $9,000. I would think you could find a low mileage example in the $9,000-$14,000 range. ABS is a touch option to find but I'd defintely consider it.
  • Hey everyone!

    Just got a 2000 Cherokee Sport, and I'm driving the heck out of it. I love it, especially with all the snow we've got here in upstate NY.

    My question is, since I am new to 4wd systems, is when can I use the CommandTrac 4wd? I know never in the dry pavement. Can it be used in the rain? I am worried that I might hurt the transfer case, as they plow the snow around here, deep snow turns to slush, which eventually turns to just a wet road. Can the commandtrac be used on wet roads as long as I don't make any full turns? What are the limitations?
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    It might cause a little extra wear to the drivetrain/tires, but running in the conditions you mentioned shouldn't be a big problem. I ran mine under similar circumstances and was just careful about how sharp of turns I took. I figure worst case if it takes 20% off the life of my 4x4 drivetrain, I can deal with that. It's just a machine, use it as you need it!

    P.S. my father-in-law used to have a Cherokee in the early 90's and he would run the Command-trac anytime it rained and didn't think twice about his turning/speeds. He typically abuses vehicles anyway, but he never had any problems with that Jeep. I know it had over 150k miles when he traded it for his first Grand Cherokee.
  • So running it in the rain is fine, as the tires will slip in a turn. I'm not worried about tire wear, as much as wear or outright breakage in the transfer case components.

    Also, I plan to use Mobil 1 5w-30 oil and Mobil One filter, as the truck only has 13,000 miles (I'll switch to 10w-30 once it gets above 20 degrees here). I rack up 30k a year on my cars, so I need this truck to last at least to 150k, as all my previous cars have. Anybody have any problems using Mobil One in a Jeep Cherokee? What kind of longevity can I expect using Mobil One in a Jeep?
  • Wow, only 13,000 miles on your Cherokee? That is really low, our 2000 Sport has over 81,000 miles and is running great. I change the oil every 3,000 miles using the hated by some Fram oil filters and Quaker State oil. Our previous Dodge Shadow had over 180,000 miles using the obove mentioned stuff and ran pretty good when we sold it, didn't burn enough oil to add between changes. I have heard nothing but good things about Mobile 1, so as long as you change it on a regular basis, I'm sure it will do great. I run the Mobile gas as much as possible, I have never had a tank ping on me like some of the other brands do on 87 octane.
  • Recently took my 99 Sport in because the front pinion seal was leaking. I have 80,000 mostly trouble free miles and have owned the Jeep since new. I do use my select-trac in the winter when we have fresh snow but nothing excessive. Service rep came back and said the bearings were shot, the tech could feel and hear them when he spun the shaft. Quoted a price of around $500 for a rebuild. I have had good experiences at this dealer so far. I passed on the rebuild for now, was told the seal will start leaking again in the near future. My first question is if I stay in 2wd do these bearings move? It seems to me that they shouldn't but I'm not sure of the inner workings of the front diff. I'm hoping they dont.. Does $500 seem excessive for this? I really enjoy the Jeep and planned on keeping it for a while yet. The motor and tranny are tight as a drum, never use any oil at all. Too bad they stopped making them. Thanks in advance to anyone still checking this board.
  • The front driveshaft (and differential) does rotate in 2-wheel drive. The only thing that changes when you put in 4-wheel drive is that power is given to the front shaft through the transfer case. $500. seems likely with labor and parts. If I don't a hear noise I wouldn't fix it. Maybe take your Sport to another garage that knows Jeeps and get a second look.
  • gbrmg4gbrmg4 Posts: 6
    Thanks for the info on the wheel bearings. Talked to another shop and they told me the same thing. I looked at just enough new or slightly used cars to make me realize the value of my paid off Cherokee. When I read the boards for Volvo or Subaru, two wagons I like, it seems like their reputation for reliability is a product of the older model vehicles. Not a lot of the newer models seem to get past 80k with as few problems as I've had with the Jeep. Sorry to hear about the transmission 'clueless, I don't think tranny problems are very common with the Cherokee, at least not the newer models. I would definetly say there is no way it should take three trips to fix any problems, especially not after $1800.
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