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Jeep Cherokee



  • Sounds like two totally different problems to me. Fuel sender is bad or didn't get replaced or grounded or ???
    The freeway problem sounds like death wobble and it seems no one really had an answer for it.
    My 87 was doing it at 51...had the tracker bar replaced and that fixed it for a while but it came back. I had the front end aligned and checked 5 times by 3 different shops and everything was ok for a while but it came back again. I ended up replacing the steering stabilizer whichalso fixed it for a time but it started again. I bought a cheap stabilizer. It apparently failed. I put an Old Man EMU Stabilizer (it was about twice as big as the cheap one) on and the problem is gone. 4K miles and it hasn't come back.
  • I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee with a 4.0L 6Cyl with 135000 Miles. It is starting fine but if I put the Automatic transmission in gear the engine drops out and almost stalls. If I put the transmission back in park or neutral the engine idle returns to normal. After a minute or so of idling I can usually get going with out any problems. I also noticed this afternoon that the same problem occurs if I switch on the AC right after starting. All the fluids look clean (Normal) and are at the proper level. Plugs, cables distributor, air filter and fuel filter are new. Up until now the vehicle has run great…

    I just spoke to my cousin who has an almost identical 94 Jeep Cherokee and he has the same problem… We’re both stumped… any ideas?
  • thorsnakethorsnake Posts: 14
    Any idea where this is located?
  • sandisezzsandisezz Posts: 4
    IF your '92 is the same as my '95, there is a pet-cock drain thingy behind the front grill. On my '95, I have to remove about 12 screws to remove the plastic grill, and the drain thingy is behind that... However, it might be easier to just disconnect the bottom radiator hose.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Open your hood and look near the firewall on the passenger side. There is a little black hose (about 3/4 inch in diameter) that protrudes from the firewall and turns down. It is right opposite the starter. I took a picture of mine. You can see a few drips of water on the frame below it.

  • bopperbopper Posts: 3
    Is replacing a radiator on a 1994 Cherokee an easy process? Is it the same as other cars? I have done other cars but was told a Jeep is different and more difficult.
  • flygirl1flygirl1 Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Jeep cherokee, 142000 miles. Today, while driving from work I noticed my radio was not on. Then I tried the front wiper, and they didn't work. The heater/airconditioner would not come on, and no turn signals. When I got I home I turned off the vehicle and then restarted it. Now everything works at least for now. Is there a problem with my ignition switch? My brother is great with cars, and can likely fix the problem but he wants to me ask some questions before we go tearing it apart. Please help!
  • bopperbopper Posts: 3
    Hi, just curious if you changed out your radiator on your car. I just posted a message trying to find out if it is easy to replace the radiator and some basic instructions. Any help would be appreciated.
  • jchartierjchartier Posts: 1
    I have seen this same issue in the past. The problem occurs when the ECM is transitioning from open loop to closed loop. The bank one sensor one O2 sensor isn't ready for the transition. It will cause the fuel mixture to fall on its face. The issue won't throw a code because the error is too short. These older style fuel systems are slow in responding to inputs. Even if you watch the computers input on a scanner you won't see this going on. Sometimes causing a lean pop from the intake. Simply swapping the O2 sensor will rid you of this problem. Please don't ask how long it took to find this one.....;)
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    I have never flushed a radiator, but I recently installed a new one. The plug is on the passenger side. If you take the grill off you will see it. Oh, don't take it all the way out; just a few turns and the coolant should flow through the plug. If you take it all the way out, no big deal, you'll get it back in with a little patience.
  • jeepgirl3jeepgirl3 Posts: 10
    I just replaced the radiator on my 94 Cherokee (in-line 6) and it is not difficult at all. I suggest the Haynes manual, it has pictures and I have found it to be very good for diagnoses and instruction. The job took me about 3 hours, and I am in no way a mechanic, just a girl with a nice socket set. Good Luck.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Posts: 14
    Wow thank's for the picture. I found the tube easily. It was not plugged in all the way. I will correct that as soon as a find a way to blow air into it. Although I think this will be a while, as my a/c is leaking freon. :cry: Yep I charged it, and 3 days later it is gone again :mad:
    Thanks again.
  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    My 1990 Jeep Cherokee, is overheating when I drive slowly, I dont understand why the radiator cap pops open few minutes after I slow down, and all my antinfreezze spills. :( :( :(
  • vkohrtvkohrt Posts: 1
    I am a dealer specializing in Cherokee's. We've had the same problem with my sons 96. We replaced the fuel pump last week at a cost of $98. This seems to have fixed the problem. The 96 is fairly easy to replace. You do not have to remove the tank on this year. You simply remove the cover and pump from the front side of the tank. If this does not solve the problem, the crank sensor will do the same. It is located on top of the bell housing and is easily replaced with two bolts. Part cost is about $68.

    Van Kohrt
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    You could insert a length of soft plastic tubing inside the drain tube and blow into it. That may clear it. But if your drain tube was detached, you may need to go under the dash to make sure the tube is attached properly now. It seems strange to me that it would just come loose on it's own. If your A/C refrigerant leak is the evaporator coil, then the dash needs opened to repair/replace it. If that's the case, be sure to tell the service person that the tube may be detached so they can fix it then. Good luck :)
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    So what's the question(s)?
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Have the cap pressure tested. It may be bad.
  • bopperbopper Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information. I will tackle the project soon. I'll look for that manual. If it takes me more than three hours, I'm not gonna tell you. Thanks again.
  • My wife's 1999 jeep cherokee keeps idling extremely high in fact if I take my foot off of the gas it will drive uninterrupted at a speed of 35 MPH. Two trips to the local yokels have resulted in unneccesary map sensor changes and BS diagnostic charges totalling around five to six hundred dollars. The mechanics claim that they are unable to reproduce the symptoms when they drive it around even after a technician supposedly took it home overnight. When I stop at a light the vehicle surges and I must put it in park and rev the engine in order to get it to return to its normal idling leve of around 800 rpm. If I don't rev it while it's in park it will idle at 2000 rpm. What the hell is going on? I'm a loyal jeep buyer. I have a wrangler with no problems but I've reached the end of my rope, especially since my wife doesn't ever notice the problem and it's been eight months and the mechanics won't credit us for the map sensor that the incorrectly diagnosed and replaced. Also the fan on the A/C works only on setting # 4 not 1,2, and 3. What's up with that. Thank you in advance for any input. Brotherflash.
  • flygirl1flygirl1 Posts: 2
    What would cause this to happen. Is there possible something wrong with my ignition switch or a relay switch?
  • Bought another cherokee recently for cheap, runs great when it gets warm, but has problems when you first start it up. As soon as you fire it up, it doesn't idle great.. and when you put it in drive it gets worse. when you put your foot on the gas, gets to about 30 mphs and then both the rpms and mphs drop to almost nothig like you are just coasting, then a few seconds later it will pick back up get to around 30 mph, and drop off again. Keeps doing tihs for a few minutes total length can vary depending how long it has been sitting for. But after a few minutes... runs like it was brand new. The car will never completely stall.
    :sick: :sick: Check engine light came on recently and says it's a "0455" which is "the PCH has determined that a large leak exists in the evaporative emission control system" I've had it checked out by a few jeep dealerships and they say it's a fuel pump related issue, but i have my doubts. I read other messages on here saying it might be a leak on the actual canister or hose leading up to it. Has anyone else experienced this quick lose of power or have any ideas for me? thanks guys
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I wife doesn't have a problem then you should be happy. Sounds like idle air motor to me. As for a credit. If they see no problem then all they can assume is that they fixed it and you should pay for it. :confuse:
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    Has this happened only one time? It will be hard to find if everything works fine now. I would look at the wirng schematic to see if there is a common component for all the parts that didn't work and then inspect it to see if something is loose, corroded or damaged. It could be the ignition switch but that's not easy to inspect.
  • autonutsautonuts Posts: 138
    in looking for a newer used Cherokee say 2000 and newer. I have a few questions and hope that Jeep owners can answer honestly. How reliable are they in the long run? Is the 4wd reliable without problems? What kind of gas mileage do you get with the 4.0L? If they are problematic, what are the biggest concerns? I usually buy foreign but would like to buy a Jeep because for 1) It's American made and 2) It's cheaper to buy. Thanks in advance and please be honest. :D
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I had an '01 Cherkoee for about 2.5 years. Put 75k miles on it in that time period, and I think the only repair was a faulty oil-pressure sensor which was covered under warranty. The transmissions are actually japanese (aisan sp?) and while a bit clunky and not real excited about down-shifting from higher speeds, they're nearly bullet-proof. The 4.0L is also a bullet-proof and quite strong, although it makes quite a bit of racket. I sold it to a friend who now has over 110k miles on it and had to repair the A/C somewhat recently. The basic 4x4 system is very basic with a manual shifter that seems to be quite reliable. It was noisey when running in 4x4, but otherwise could go just about anywhere was locked in. 4lo would possibly pull a house off it's foundation.

    Look for one with the factory tow package because you get extra heavy cooling for engine/tranny as well as synthetic diff fluids. The hitch is nice too, and you can bolt a nice tow-hook onto it so you'll have tow hooks in front/back.

    I've had quite a few foreign cars/trucks over the years and while the Jeep is a bit of a crudely built machine, they're quite fun and seem to do a good job.

    Gas mileage? I rarely broke 18mpg in mix of driving. Long trips running 70-75 would get 20mpg if lucky. I got similar gas mileage out of my '02 V8 4x4 Chevy Tahoe so IMHO they get poor gas mileage. I had a rental liberty recently though that I wouldn't buy ever compared to the Cherokee. It felt top-heavy, low on power, and got a whopping 15mpg. The steering feels better in the liberty and the interior is a bit more up-class (although it's still low-rent duds).
  • elsdonelsdon Posts: 2
    I have a 1997 Grand Cherokee Limited. Recently the other day, turning into a parking space at the grocery store I found my front tires were not differentiating and in fact I would say that I had force the Jeep into the space. Backing out was the same. Turning corners on the way home was not as bad but I could still tell that something was not right.
    The next day I took it for a test drive and found that while it was still “cool” the problem was diminished but as it heated up the problem became more pronounced again. I have checked all my fluids and they are all up to the proper levels. Beyond that I am kind of a dunce. Has any one else had this problem or can give me some ideas on what to check next? I appreciate the help.
  • bluzbluz Posts: 1
    Trying to pinpoint our Jeep's power steering drag. Even going down the road it is stiff. If you are turning the steering left to right, trying to troubleshoot where it is coming from, it sounds as if the P.S. is working very hard -as if it is low on fluid but the P.S. fluid is full. No leaks. Tight belt.
    Called autoparts store for a price on a P.S. pump and was told that P.S. failure is very rare. Any input on how I can pinpoint if problem is power steering pump or possibly rack? How can I tell if the rack is bad. Thanks for any advice.
  • autonutsautonuts Posts: 138
    Thanks a lot for your feedback! I appreciate your time. :)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Before you replace the steering pump or gear box, make sure the ball joints aren't bad. If they freeze up, the steering will get very heavy.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I agree wholly with sebring95. I have a '99 4x4 Sport. Bought it new and really have enjoyed it. If you don't mind the truck like manner of the Cherokee it will serve you well. Want cushy? Look elsewhere.
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