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Jeep Cherokee



  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8

    I have a '90 2dr. Is your system closed pressure system? I'm pretty sure it is.

    Make sure the radiator cap is on tight and leave it alone.

    Get a large bottle, like a windshield washer fluid bottle.
    Cut the bottom out.
    Turn the bottle upside down into the reservoir bottle of your jeep.
    Fill the reservoir up with antifreeze (while using the washer fluid bottle).
    Get someone to start the motor.

    The motor will suck the antifreeze in so KEEP THE ANTIFREEZE UP.
    The motor will get up to temp and suck the antifreeze in, having the fluid bottle filled with antifreeze will keep from getting air pockets in the block.
    This is going to take some time and a lot of patience.

    Do this until the thermostat maintains running temp, 190-210 depending on thermostat.

    Once you maintain temp, put the reservoir bottle cap on tightly.
    Don't worry if the bottle expands, the cap will releave any pressure and then it will seal. DON'T OPEN THE RESERVOIR CAP UNLESS THE BLOCK IS COMPLETELY COOL!! Opening cap will make you loose it's pressure (pressure system, get it)

    The next morning, after the block is cool, check the level of antifreeze. If it's still low, add some and put cap back on.

    NEVER ADD COOLANT WHILE BLOCK IS HOT OR IT WILL ALL KICK BACK OUT THROUGH THE CAP LATER (it sucks I know, I had an over heating problem for almost 3 years before I did this)

    What happens is for one reason or another, air gets in the line or block. Once it's trapped in the block, it's very hard to get rid of.

    In the case of my '90, I had a hose leak. When I replaced the hose, it got air in the system. I replaced the thermostat with a 185 degree, new water pump, new hoses, new bottle, new cap, etc etc. Nothing helped. Took it to TWO jeep dealerships and almost a $1000 later, same problem. I finally found a mechanic who was very familiar with the issue and showed me what i described to you above.
    He solved the problem the first time!!! I was amazed, shocked, and pissed off at those "5-Star" dealerships.

    Once you get that system straight, don't ever let anyone take that bottle cap off ever. Only you take the cap off and only take it off when it's cool.

    Something else happened to my '90, my radiator went bad. The plastic neck on the upper hose cracked and broke completely off!!! What a mess. That pressure system blew off the coolant out. It happened on the interstate, by the time I made it to the shoulder, all the coolant was gone. All gone! I had to buy a new radiator of course. I found a place on line, I bought (get this) a ALL metal, 3 row (oem is 2 row) for less than a replacement from Advance or Napa. It was a direct fit, no mods. It costs $140 delivered. So, if you ever have that issue, check it out.

    Hope I helped. I got on here to ask about a problem I'm having with my '99 XJ.
    I'm having a metal clanking sound from my passenger front hub. Everything is tight. When I turn sharp, it acts like it's in four wheel drive even though it isn't.
    Any help on that?

    Good luck!
  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8
    I'm having a metal clanking noise in the front passenger hub.
    I notice it most when I hit bumps of course.
    Something else I notice is that when I turn sharp, it feels like the front tires slip, almost as if it's in 4 wheel drive, but it's not.

    I looked for joint problems, anything leaking or rubbing, but no sign.
    It's getting worse and I'm afraid it will leave me stranded.

    Any ideas?
    Anyone had this issue?

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    1. Yes, the mileage does goes up as the vehicle is towed.

    2. Mileage depends on many factors. What's your driving style? Does it have the factory size tires on it? Has it been lifted? What's the axle ratios? Make sure none of the brakes are dragging to start. I have a completely stock '01 XJ with 70k miles. My normal daily commute covers roughly 85 miles with about 75% being open highway using cruise control. I usually get between 19.5 and 21 mpg.

    3. Jump over to the Jeep Wrangler thread. Ask a fella with the screen name of "tsjay". He can tell you how to get the build sheet for your XJ.
  • thorsnakethorsnake Posts: 14
    My Jeep only mechanic. Says changing to a different spark plug other than the factory champion plug will cause the check engine light to go off, and potentionaly cause other problems? :confuse: ? I've had 3 sets of plugs, in 10K, most likely do to a REALLY bad fuel pump ( Just fully replaced ), and to much combustion chamber cleaner. I have always used Split Fires, or other high end plugs on other vehicles. Is what he says true? I would like to get longer life, performace, and gas milage. With out any check engin problems etc? Has any had any success?
  • usalbertusalbert Posts: 6
    ThanK You very much! my overheating problem finally is fixed! now! my turn light signal and my ac are no working! cero, nada, there may be losse wire or something! do you now anything about this? :)
  • bripambripam Posts: 1
    I'm about to purchase a 2001 jeep cherokee sport 6 cyl, 4wd with auto tran. It has about 60k for mileage. Having never owned a jeep before, my question is the reliabilty of these vehicles. Also what should I be aware of for previous problems with this make and model from 2001?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Spark plugs causing the SES light to come on????? Come on. :surprise: The only way that I can see that happening is if you install literally the WRONG plugs. Ones that may be too cold, or hot, short, long, wrong seating surface, etc.....

    If anyone here has first hand experience with this, I'd love to hear it.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    That's exactly what I have. I bought my first Jeep, a '95 Wrangler, back in September of '03. It was nothing more than a toy for me as I offroad it. Well, I fell in love with it and the Jeep bug bit. Now I have my '01 Cherokee Sport. It's my daily driver. It had 60k miles on it back in February, now has nearly 71k miles. I bought it for three reasons:

    1. I completely understand the "Jeep Thing" :D
    2. I love the classic lines of the Cherokee. Most people can't tell a '91 from an '01. Since they didn't change much, parts are super easy to find.
    3. That 4.0L engine is absolutely bullet-proof. I have many Jeep friends that have well over 200k miles on their 4.0's. My wife works with a person that has an older Cherokee, not sure what year, that has just over 275k miles on it.

    Since '01 was the last year the Cherokee was produced, many of the bugs had been long since worked out. I honestly am not aware of any particular downfall of this model. Infact, with me getting around 20 mpg out of mine, the only thing I can think of that even could be a turn-off is its truck like ride and handling. But then of course, I've always had trucks, so it's no big deal to me.

    My wife also fell in love with Jeeps. Last month my wife traded her Windstar for a Grand Cherokee. Folks, I'm in Jeep heaven!!!! :D
  • jeepandyjeepandy Posts: 3
    mullins87... Thanks for the info about my new Jeep. To answer your questions: about my driving style... I drive very carefully and try to get the best mpg I can. The tires are 235/75 R 15 and I believe standard size is 215/75 R 15. It has not been lifted, and I don't know what the axle ratio is. Haven't noticed any dragging brakes. I have put a bottle of Techron in the gas tank to clean the injectors so maybe the mpg will go up. We made a quick trip of about 150 miles yesterday and used less than 1/2 tank of gas.

    Is there a way to change the timing (maybe advance a little?) to get better mpg? I did this on a '74 Vega that I once owned and it got 34 mpg on the highway.

    Thanks again,
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    With regard to your MPG question... I get around 17 city, 22 hwy (I drive conservatively). When my (lead foot) son uses my '99 4x4 XJ. He gets 15 city. I run my stock tire size at 36 psi all around. This helps.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    This article may be of interest too:

    Generations - Jeep Cherokee

    Steve, Host
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    Many shops have a standard procedure to recommend everything be replaced once a vehicle reaches a certain age/miles. (monroe and such other chains) Liability type thing is the excuse, but it's real profitable too! You might try another shop as it's not real likely that everything is actually "bad".
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I'm not sure on the factory tire size, you may be right. Mine has 225's on it. I'll usually get anywhere from 275 to 300 miles on a tank before I have to fill up, so this tank may get you decent mileage. You can't just advance the timing on your XJ by turning the distributor, it doesn't have one. Unless, that device that is in the distributors place can adjust the timing. However, I'd bet that would really mess with the computers programming! :P
  • 98classic98classic Posts: 6
    Well all i can say is i dont know exactly what it is but i have a 98 classic and it does the same thing when i turn sharp it makes a clunking noise, but!, it didnt start doing this until i changed the hub and the u joint in the passenger side. hope ithis steers ya in the right direction. I love my jeep. :P
  • muddummiemuddummie Posts: 1
    I would check the sensor on the back side of the engine. It bolts to the bell housing, and picks up on the fly wheel. I think its called a crank pick up sensor. I had the same problem with one of my jeeps and thats what it was.
  • My hubby was changing the rear shocks on our 99 cherokee.. He broke 3 bolts.. the upper bolt he said he can drill and retap.. but he said the rear is like a brackets.. what is the deal with this.. Advance auto parts said it would need cuut and a piece welded on.. Any help will be greatly appreciated.. TIA.. Smiles :) LORI
  • thorsnakethorsnake Posts: 14
    I'm about to hit the majic 82,500 miles. It will be time to replace the oxygen sensor, which looks easy. How do you turn off the dash light? BTW its a 99XJ.
  • ksoykksoyk Posts: 2
    Hi all! Jeep girl here needing some help - my 91 Jeep Cherokee Laredo has suddenly decided to start sluggish (best word to describe it, I guess). When I turn the key, the turning-over-sound is very sluggish sounding/feeling, and then it catches and runs just like normal. :confuse:
    This wasn't a gradual problem - it literally just started doing it. It still does the typical 2-4 Jeep turn overs and then the engine starts, but the turn overs are struggling now. :(
    I have no idea what's up, and hold my breath every time I turn the key, hoping for it to catch. So far, it's always caught *whew!*. This is my only vehicle!
    Any suggestions on what the problem could be? Many, many thanks for everyone's help!
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    If the mount bracket is broken then it will need to be repaired by cutting and/or welding as required to make it strong enough to handle the force of the shock as it does it's job. Sounds like "hubby" can do the work OK... he just had a bit of misfortune on this one. Leave it alone.
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    I am assuming you mean your check engine light. Disconnect the battery for a while; then re-connect. Or your local Autozone can clear it for you. If the O2 sensor is causing the light to be on, then replacing it may also turn the light off.
  • wkt37211wkt37211 Posts: 1
    I bought a complete OEM kits from the dealer for my two '95's. All the wiring is in place and it didn't take an hour to install. The most difficult part was removing the air bag and replacing the "clockspring." The air bag had a safety mechanism that you screwed in (or out) to disarm the air bag. I has the factory switches and no one can tell it didn't come from the factory with it. The kit was about $175. For me it was worth the money for the ease of installation and the fact I can get parts from a dealer or junk yard if something goes out! :)
  • worleyguyworleyguy Posts: 8

    Thanks for the reply.
    I don't think it's the u-joints. I had never heard anyone say they had clunking noises after they had replaced them, that's odd.

    My father in law and I looked over that front in for about an hour both jacked up and sitting on the ground. We were hitting anything and everything with a rubber mallate. It wasn't until I jacked up the Jeep ( i put the jack behind the lower control arm of the passenger side, up on the chasis, high enough to get the tire off the ground) that we noticed a HUGE gap in the sway bar chasis mount bushing mount. The gap is sooo big you could put a number 2 pencil between the bar and the bushing. I have not replaced them as of yet, but I'm thinking it's what's causing it. You can get bushing kits for the sway bar and tie rods for $25. I don't think it will take me an hour to replace them. I will update my message if and when I fix this problem. Check your Jeep out, I'm curious if you may have the same issue.

  • sandisezzsandisezz Posts: 4
    I finally changed out the radiator for my 95 cherokee (4.0L)... easy enough process. At first I couldn't figure out my overheating problem... no leaking pump, replaced radiator cap, replaced thermostat, replaced water valve thingy for the heater; but i was still building up heat --- I even tried running without a thermostat and it built up heat (but much slower). I could use the heater for a short burst, and the temp would fall. The only thing left was the radiator.

    After going to Jeep and the local auto parts stores and getting quotes for a replacement at about $280+, I looked on ebay. I found a listing from an obvious retailer of new parts - so I called them to make sure it would fit. I ordered a 3-row heavy duty replacement for $142.00 delivered. Frankly, it was of better construction than my original, as the replacement was ALL-metal construction versus my original which actually had plastic end pieces!

    Installation was easy enough. Remove the electric fan. Remove the mounting screws for the clutch fan shrowd, and push it over the fan blades. Mark the position of the hood latch, then remove the whole top mounting plate. Disconnect the upper radiator hose, overflow hose, transmission upper and lower lines, lower radiator hose --- then the tricky one: the lowest connection on the driver's side. I thought I'd need some kind of special tool to loosen a "special" fitting. After looking at it, I used a small screwdriver and squeezed/pushed the nylon tabs in and the connection just slides apart (DON'T LOOSE THIS NYLON PIECE). And out the old radiator comes!

    At this point, I also needed to put in a new thermostat. When I removed the thermostat housing I took my garden hose and shot it through the block, and through the heater lines. While I was running it thru the heater lines, I manually moved the heater line valve thingy located fruther back on the line. Just trying to get a thorough flush. Then re-assembled with an oem thermostat (195)

    When I installed the replacement radiator, I did have remove two upper oil cooler support "tabs" because they didn't line up just exactly where mine had been origionally located (just bent them back and forth until they broke off at the edge), so I could use the original brackets. Stuff everything back in its place and wha-la, new radiator. And what'd ya know, no more overheating problems! Total time: about 3 hrs. Sorry for the very long winded note, but hopefully this will help a few others...
  • jeepster5jeepster5 Posts: 2
    You at least got your belt loose. I cant quite figure it out. I've got a 99 Cher. with the strait 6 engine, but CANNOT figure out how to get the serp belt off. Driving me nuts. Can you help?
  • canariocanario Posts: 1
    I also have a 91 Cherokee and last week it had the very same problem. Exact description.
    The car needs a new starter solenoid (cost me $32 at Pep Boys). The contacts are burnt and do not give full power to the starter motor.
    You need to take the starter out (from the bottom) to replace the solenoid. Or a mechanic can do it for you relativelly cheap.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    How old is the battery? If it has any age on it at all, I'd have it load tested. Places like AutoZone or Advance will do that for free.

    As mentioned above, it could also be the solenoid. I'd look at the battery first, as that is the easiest part to replace. The starter is really easy to remove. Remove the negative battery cable. Remove the two wires at the starter, one large and one small. Loosen the two bolts holding the starter in place, it bolts into the bellhousing. While holding the starter with one hand, remove the bolts with the other hand. The starter isn't all that heavy, probably 10 to 15 lbs. However, lying flat on your back, it will feel much heavier than that. Once the bolts are out, lower it to the ground. Installation is the reverse of removal. Very simple job, just dirty and inconvenient.
  • ksoykksoyk Posts: 2
    Yay! It turned out to be just the battery - I was worried it'd be something more expensive like the alternator or something, but *whew*!
    Thanks, everyone!
  • dancermandancerman Posts: 220
    The tensioner on it must be loosened. There is a bolt that locks the tensioner in place and another for adjusting the tension. Both are metric (can't remember size). The locking bolt is located just right of center (when you are facing the grill). A box end wrench will work but wear a heavy glove to protect your knuckles. There's not alot of room to work and everything has a sharp edge. Careful not to damage the radiator. You only need to break it loose and maybe a half turn more. Then back off the adjusting bolt until the belt can be removed. It's right behind the locking bolt with the hex head pointing up at an angle (long bolt, lots of thread). A socket and extension works best here. You may want to make a diagram of the belt path before you remove it. Good luck.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Glad to hear it was only the battery. :D
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