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Technical Service Bulletins



  • pepe5pepe5 Posts: 16
    yes a letter of the serial number changes every year.
  • jharoldjharold Posts: 11
    What year would this engine be? Serial number A910716fk (2.8 chevy.)
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    HI, guys:
    I have read all post here and it is great. Currently, I have a 95 Nissan ALtima GXE - auto, it just hit 40k mile, I am going to do a tune-up on it. ( I bought it used and there is no sign that the previous owner did any major work on it, maybe some inspection.) I checked with 2 local Nissan dealer, they suggested me to do a total job which include transmission, A/C , wheel alignment/balance, engine valve adjustment, and check brake..., but they also say they didn't see anything is wrong when I ask them if there anything wrong they noticed. The other local auto-shop just recommend me to do a transmission fluid change, check brake, fluid, change engin oil and some minor check. The price from Nissan dealer is around $400 and $85 from the auto-shop mechanic. I don't want to run the car with risk, but I don't really think a 95 Nissan need that much work? Can I get some valuable information from any one who has experience on Japenese car, especailly on Nissan? Any input will be appreciate! Thanks in advance.
  • billy9billy9 Posts: 19
    Fluids - YES, Brakes - YES, if your car has a timing belt change that when recommended, otherwise "if it aint broke don't fix it" - IMO
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 847
    Pretty much agree with him. DO change the auto tranny fluid periodically, it will give it longer life. A/C what? Leak test? I don't know what a standard test is on the AC, but you can have a mechanic inspect it, to assure nothing is wrong. Early detection can prevent very expensive repairs. Alignment/rotation---sure, if the car pulls at all, or if the tires need to be swapped due to tread wear, have these things done. Valve adjust? Yes, I agree, have the tappets adjusted.

    If that second mechanic is a guy you trust, have him do these things for you. There is no reason to pay a dealer that much for basic inspections.
  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    Thanks for the informaion. I am going to change all the fluid. I am trying to change the tranny fluid myself, Is that pretty hard??? I also heard that there is a magnet inside that will hold metal dust weared out. Shall I also clean that/Is it hard to do? If I ask a mechanic to do that, will they clean that for me normally?

    Thanks in advance!!
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    The transmission pan needs to come off in order for the magnet to be cleaned (assuming its an automatic). If all you're doing is draining and refilling the transmission oil, you're not going to be able to clean the magnet(s). If you're really bent on cleaning the magnet(s), then have the mechanic service the transmission (this will include an oil change) instead of trying it yourself. If you personally try to pull off the transmission pan and put it back on, you may overtighten the gasket and cause oil to leak from the transmission. Stick to the simple stuff.

    If the transmission is a standard transmission, then the transmission drain plug should have a magnet on its end that captures metal particles. Manual transmissions have to be drained and filled from below, though, and filling may be difficult without the right tools..
  • 606zpx606zpx Posts: 75
    I have a 94 Honda with 103K miles whose fuel guage has not read full after fill-up since 50K miles. Was told that it would cost significant $ when I took it to the dealer at that time. Have now found a TSB describing my problem to a "T". Should this now be covered cost free???
  • billy9billy9 Posts: 19
    Unless you are still covered by a bumper to bumper warranty, probably not. A TSB is only information used by the repair shops to communicate how to best fix a problem. A recall on the other hand would be fixed for free regardless of mileage.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 847
    I would take the tsb to the dealer. Tell them you feel that this is an obvious defect in materials and workmanship, and you feel that Honda should repair their own mistake. Be nice, you may have to talk to the service manager, unless they consult him on their own.
  • tgmyerstgmyers Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 sable LS Wagon and have a problem at high speed 70MPH. We get a high pitch whining noise from the back. The dealer thought it was the electric fuel pump, but it checked out o'key, so did the rear-end. it doe's not do it all the time.Sometimes on a trip you my be driving for about 2-3 hours then it will start and go away. It is worse when you go down hill. The high pitch is real loud and hurts your ears. Any one with this problem??
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 847
    I'm sorry, did you say that he checked the differential? I didn't understand that sentence.

    How about the wheel bearings?
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    This is a front-wheel-drive car so you don't have many "moving parts" in the rear.

    Does the wagon have roof rack? Sometimes these can set up a drumming sound that is surprisingly loud will usually occur within a fairly narrow range of road speeds.

    Check the roof rack for any looseness, maybe move the transverse bars a few inches and see if that helps. If the Sable has a roll-down rear window (I can't picture it) you can also have a passenger ride in the rear and reach out the open rear window and grasp the roof rack when the noise starts. Another way to check out the roof-rack theory is to tie a rope to the center of the transverse member and take the free end of the rope in the passenger window. When the noise starts, pull on the rope to add tension to the roof-rack member. If the noise pitch changes, you're on the right track.
  • 606zpx606zpx Posts: 75
    Thanks for your replies. I was out of town for awhile and just checked back. I try taking it in.
  • byedbyed Posts: 4
    I just purchases a new Ford Contour SVT. In the final inspection I noticed several scratches and chips in the paint. the dealer has said they will fix it in the body shop and fix it (either repaint the panels or touch up work). Won't either of these options lesson the value of the car? what can I do? any thoughts? Please help soon.
  • tmangertmanger Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 740 BMW, the speedometer is off 10+%. It is under warranty, but the dealer has a service bulletin that states that as long as it is not off more than 10% + 2.5 mph, it is within bmw specs. To really go 70mph, my speedometer reads 80mph. They refuse to fix it, because they contend that it is not broken!! Has anybody else had this problem, or know of a fix?
  • chevycamchevycam Posts: 54
    You may or may not be covered. If there is record that you asked about the problem at 50K and your car is in good shape, call Honda's support line. You might be surprised.

    I had two tsbs fixed on my honda at 66,000 miles. The dealer did it with no problems.
  • i'm looking to buy 1990 or above lincoln (towncar), buick roadmaster, or mercury grand marquis ...does anyone have advice on any of these cars.....stay from stories...etc????
  • Honda is probably the most generous company going when it comes to repairs after warranty, however the fuel gauge problem is shared by a lot of manufacturers at this time and it is being caused by sulfer concentrations in the fuel, as you have not gone to the dealer with this problem until you have had over 100K miles do you honestly expect this should be repaired for free? you should be able to have this repaired for $200 or less or if you choose to not repair the fuel gauge will be accurate from 1/2 to empty
  • What is the story with GM alternators...I am on #4 for my 95 Olds LSS and my fatehr is on #3 for his Park Avenue. The summer heat seesm to destroy them
  • nel2nel2 Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Buick Lasabre. alternator went out at 17000 miles. Next time my warranty will be expired.
  • The "check oil" light in my 96 LSS frequently comes on and may stay on for several minutes. This is the light for oil level, not pressure. The oil level is fine and the dealer could not find a problem.
    Any ideas?

  • the pivot plate on my turn signal arm cracked. I have a 1993 Pontiac Bonneville. How do I determine whether this may be a problem others may have experienced?


  • shmangshmang Posts: 297
    When I change my engine oil, they always say they will lube chasis and I don't understand what is that? Anyone knows what is that? Any information will be appreciated.
  • shmang, various components of the suspension and driveline such as tie rod ends, ball joints, u-joints, etc have fittings that allow grease to be injected. The service tech. will lube these components as the oil is being drained. The next time you take you vehicle in for service, ask the tech. or service manager to point out these area for you.
    Hope this helps.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    Most of the TSB's for vehicles less than 2 years old will inly be available from the dealer or at cost from outfits,such as Alldata or Mitchell.The best thing to do if you have a specific problem,to find out if there is a TSB for it,is to contact the dealer and ask them if the have a TSB on it,or there are several websites that you can leave a post asking for the info,and some will return with info.Tech sites,such as or
  • I have a 98 Taurus with a DOHC Duratec. It started having a valve rattle after the first couple of thousand miles. It only has this noise right at 3900-4000 rpm under full throttle. The dealer refuses to release any TSBs and I don't trust them due to some history with them. I don't want my immaculate, low mileage car operated on needlessly (as they love to do to collect money from Ford) to address a common NON-problem. Any similar experiences?
  • 95 Ford Contour. Junk! Clattering noise on start-up. Found TSB on 2 websites. Called 2 Ford dealers to find out the reason for the clatter and cost to fix. Told them about TSB but they said they couldn't find it. Finally had to purchase from NHTSA web site for $15. Info was great from NHTSA. It gives you time estimates, part list and detailed repair information. Why couldn't Ford find it?? When does a TSB become a recall? Anybody else having this problem with Contour? I have a friend with a 96 w/ same problem. I haven't found a Ford dealership that could repair a car. Any input appreciated. This is my first post to a website. A great place to find information. thanks.
  • Experience intermittent problem with performance. Five speed manual trans and car runs well about 70% of the time but about 30% it suddenly feels like the car is surging, and it seems to lock at a low RPM; downshifting doesn't make a difference. Sometimes experience the surging feeling around 60-70 mph as well. Have had the car into Nissan with the same compliant numerous times during the last 4 years and no one can find a problem. Car now has approx. 100,000 miles and has been routinely serviced by Nissan. Trans has been replaced, under warranty, and has a relatively new clutch. Recently had fuel injectors serviced by Nissan and tuned; ran good for about a month and this problem started all over again. Any one have ideas or similar experience?.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    The reason Ford dealer couldn't find the TSB,is they probably didn't look.They make very little money on TSBs.A TSB doesn't become a recall,unless it is safety related or it is a problem with a very large number of that vehicle.If you have a copy of the TSB,take it to the dealer with you.Somewhere at the bottom of the TSB,may be a comment about;the problem should be repaired by the dealer at no cost or contact Ford Customer Service or something like that.If it does,it is their cost.And if they won't,call the numbers on the TSB and complain.
  • ayjayj Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Pontiac Grand AM. Recently the repair shop changed my rear brakes and it starts making noise when the car stopped. the Mechanics told me because it's new and will take a while for them to "break-in". I don't recall i had the same problem last time when i changed brakes. It just doesn't sound right, plus i have already put on 2000 miles after the new brakes installed. I know nothing about cars and was lowly respected like most of the female in the repair shop. Can any one tell me what's the possible problem ? Please help!
  • gusgus Posts: 254
    Well, the brakes do take a little time to break in, but it seems like 2000 miles should be good enough. Drive the car for a bit longer and see if it goes away. If the noise doesn't go away, ask if the shop can do something, citing the fact that you've driven the car X number of miles, and it seems like the brakes should be broken in.
  • I have a 1998 Ford Ranger and the frame seems to be bent. The bed of the truck leans. I took it to a dealership to get fixed 5 times. The last time they put in an extra 1 1/2 leaf springs on the right side. Now the truck tilts to the other side and drives terribly; especially around curves. Anyone else experience this problem or know what to do?
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    Adding spring leaves without knowing the problem was unwise on the dealer's part. The results are not surprising ...and you may now have a vehicle that's dangerous to drive.

    Suggest that you go to a good body shop, one that does major repairs including frame straightening. They have diagrams for each vehicle type that show the frame dimensions. Ask them to check the frame for any damage. Expect to pay a small amount for the check; then use their information to decide what to do and who should do it.
  • 3601236012 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know whether there was ever a TSB from GM regarding headlamp housing condensation problem in the new style (non-dustbuster) minvan family? I have gone through three warranty replacements due to this problem, and I see that GM minivans in the northeast of similar vintage all have the same problem. If there is no TSB, does anyone know of a good fix?
  • I have a 1998 Olds and the head lamps also were 'fog up'. I removed both assemblies and applied a small bead of RTV around the two matting items and this helped the problem so far. Again the local Dealer was no help. I too would like to know if there is a TSB on this.
  • 216591216591 Posts: 5
    When I mentioned that a fix for my car should be covered under a tsb, he told me 'no it isn't. it didn't come up on my computer'. I am already having the car fixed and just ordered the tsb today. I then called the manufacturer and they put in my vin and said it did not come up on their computer either. I received the notification last year in the mail. How do I convice them it should be covered?
  • I have a problem when I start my 99 Dakota V6, Sometimes the engine makes a racket (kindof like a belt slipping, but my fanbelt is tight, so I don't think that is the problem) until it warms up, then the noise goes away.

    I think I have tracked down the noise and it is the engine cooling fan. (Once it disengages after initial starting, I don't think the fan clutch is releasing all the way) But every time I take it to the dealership, the noise will not present itself, so they won't even look at it.

    So, I checked Alldata to see if there were any TSB's relating to this, and I found 2 that look like they might help me diagnose my problem

    TSB Number Title
    07-05-98 Engine cooling fan noise
    07-09-98 Viscous Fan Drive Service

    Does anybody here have access to the actual writeups on these TSB's? I would like to be able to go to the dealership with the TSB writups in hand so they can see exactly what the problem is and fix it. (no more of the "we can't create it, so you must be imagining it crap)

    thanks for your help!
  • I have also had problems with the dealer and TSBs. To quote post #93, I get the "you must be imagining it crap!) No matter what car you have, you paid alot of money for it and it is not unreasonable to expect it to run/perform properly. THIS IS MY POINT. If one more person tells me to live with it, I'm going to scream. For this kind of money I shouldn't have to live with it. Especially if it is a known problem, which is what TSBs are supposed to address. The problem with TSBs are, that dealers are not required to notify you of them, even if you come in with a problem addressed by one. CRAP Supposedly TSBs do not cover life threatening items, that's what recalls are for, so they must figure it is not a big deal. So then why even issue one??? The other problem seems to be that if your car is under warranty, they have to cover a TSB repair under the warranty, here's the catch...Dealers only get reimbursed a percentage of the cost of the repair by GM, so they're not real thrilled with doing TSB work. Apparently the days of A1 customer service, and getting what you paid for (a reliable car in good working condition) are long gone. Pity.
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    Frank12, your symptoms certainly do seem to fit the TSB titles; I expect you are on the right track. Some dealers are willing to pull up the TSB data for you to read. Possibly you could go to a different dealer and, without complaining of any problem or asking him to search his TSB files, ask to see just the two TSB's you have identified. That's a simple look-up for him. Perhaps he would print copies; giving you what you need to get the first dealer's attention. Good luck.

    I, too, would like to hear if anyone knows of a no-cost access to the TSB texts.
  • There's some misunderstanding about TSBs.
    It stands for technical service bulletin.
    They are just means of communication from the
    corporate tech center to dealer service dept.
    It may or may not pertain your case and the dealer
    has no obligation whatsoever to do things mentioned on the bulletins.
  • I'm impressed with the quality of expertise and the courtesy of the folks posting here. :-)

    I wanted to share with you a problem and it's solution. Tall tires look great on trucks/SUVs and have a functional calling to some drivers. But they can throw off your speedometer readings.

    When choosing a new "custom-look" tire for your vehicle, try to keep to the truck manufacturer's specs. If you go to a taller or shorter tire, then the speedometer readings will be affected. Why? The speedometer gets its readings from a gear or sensor on the transmission output shaft. The auto maker calibrated the speedo (speedometer) to read relative to the revolution rate ("angular velocity" for you physics cognicenti) of the transmission output shaft and an expected tire height. If you change the diameter of your tire, then you affect the revolution rate.

    To understand this, compare an amusement park ferris wheel to the wheel of the child's tricycle wheel. One revolution of a rolling ferris wheel in 1 hour would cover more distance than 1 revolution of the tricycle wheel. Yet both did 1 revolution in one hour. Without my going into the high-school-level math, this means that the taller (larger diameter) tire covers more distance per revolution. Bottom line: Taller "custom" tires cause lower speedo readings.

    Speeding ticket while paced?
    Before I go further, let me emphasize that I do not condone speeding where against the law. As I said, the taller tire could cause your speedo to show a legal speed when, in actuality, your car was traveling faster. If you are pulled over for speeding and the law officer claims to have "paced" you (traveled behind you and watched his/her own speedo) as above the speed limit, then it's still remotely possible that the officer is in error, as well. (Questioning this is probably best left for "Trial by Judge" than "Trial by Roadside Jury.")

    Here's why. Tire diameter is affected by air pressure as well. On cold days, the tire pressure is lower (remember the Ideal Gas Law from Chemistry and Physics?). If the tires' pressure is lower. then the diameter of the tire is shorter (roughly akin to a slightly flat tire). This, in turn, causes the law officer's speedo to read higher than the actual MPH that you might have been traveling. Tread wear on the tire has a less dramatic effect on this diameter problem, but exacerbates the problem nonetheless. I should also note that driving warms up tires.

    Solution to speedo error.
    Try to keep to the manufacturer's recommended tire height (don't mistake this "tire height" to mean the "height of the sidewall"). Keep the tires properly inflated. If you go to a taller/shorter diameter tire for your car or truck, then consult the tire shop or your local "speed shop" for a solution to correct the speedo reading. Usually, the solution involves reconnecting the speedo cable first through a little (after-market) drive-gear assembly. This assembly changes/corrects the cable's rotational-speed ratio to the speedo. If you've got an electronic sensor on your transmission that informs your electronic speedo then you've got more expensive problems that I can't help.

    Have fun! Be courteous out there! :-)
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,712
    These guys are really nice about checking into TSBs,and supplying the info.They do not have access to ALL TSBs,but have most of the ones for 98 and before.The may provide them to people,but don't want them to come to their forum just for TSBs,they are a auto and truck repair forum,providing professional advice for repairing vehicles.Like I said,they have and often do provide the TSB and diagram info,but are there to give advice.So if you do go there for the info,please ask for their help on repairs.
    Here is their URL
    Also realize that if you can go to Alldata or nhtsa,or the dealer,and provide them with the TSB number,it will help them to provide the info needed.Check them out,if you like it great,if not,that is fine too.The only reason that I post their URl is because you asked if there was a source for TSB info,they are the only ones I know that sometimes will provide it.And they do not charge for any info they give(how long that will last,I don't know).I hope this helps.
  • garthgarth Posts: 66
    I took my Integra to the dealer for routine service recently; when i picked it up the service writer came over to talk with me and mentioned that there had been a TSB recently covering my VIN# involving the little switch on the glove box that turns the light on and off; he said he just went ahead and installed the fix, and wanted to let me know in case i noticed any future problems. to me, that's great customer service!

    so if you're getting static about what you think is a problem covered in a TSB, you might want to try another dealership.
  • spokanespokane Posts: 514
    The OneCenter information is interesting. Thanks for making us aware of it, Opatience.
  • I am trying to find out if any other Mazda 626 owners are having problems with their "Check Engine" light coming on.

    I have a 1999 Mazda 626 (4 months old) and I had to bring it in because the light came on. I was told that there was no problem and that they reset the "code" on the emission sensor and that should take care of it. Needless to say, the light is back on the day after having it "fixed". While I was waiting on my car, another owner of a 626 brought their car in for the same reason, only this was the second time that the light had come on in a matter of months.

    I would appreciate anyone out there that is having the same problem to please let me know.

    Thank you in advance!
  • If the check engine light is coming on, and you don't have an emissions-related problem (you don't if it ran thru the computer check ok), it's probably because your gas cap is not screwed on tight enough.
    If the gas cap is loose at all, the check engine light can come on.
    To reset the light, you can just disconnect the red battery terminal for 10 or 15 minutes, then reconnect it.
    So next time the light comes on, check the gas cap when you get home, and then try the battery trick.
  • pookie4pookie4 Posts: 1
    I own a 1996 Acura RL and have a problem with a burning smell or fumes from the engine compartment. No leaks are present or dripping on the hot engine. This is more noticable idling or sitting still with the engine running because the fumes come in the car. Its not the exhaust either.I had the same problem with a 1994 Acura Legend too. No one seems to know what it is, but can smell it. I even called Acura customer relations and they were very knowledgable about the car but didn't know what this was. It comes from the engine bay though. Any one else experiance this problem.Keep in mind there are no leaks under the car or on the engine itself. Any solutions or ideas will help. The smell is not an oil burning smell either. Opening the hood or sitting still idling is when its most noticeable.
  • canon1acanon1a Posts: 4
    You can purchase Technical Service Bulletins from HELM. They are the people who publist the service manuals. They cost $6.00 each. Their web site is Hope this helps
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273

    WHY pay when you can get the TSB's for FREE from the NHTSA!

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